5 THINGS I WISH I KNEW BEFORE switching to Warpaints Fanatic 🥴

do you think of getting started with war paints Fanatic in this video I'm going to paint this beautiful striking scorpion xar model from start to finish using only War paints fanatic from the Army painter and I'll share all of my findings and issues along the way so you can find out if these are the right paints for you I'm Starley from tale of painters and these are the five things I learned about war paints fanatic I wish I knew [Music] before usually I make sure that my paint reviews are as balanced and unbiased as humanly possible this video will be a more personal Affair I'm just going to paint a miniature from start to finish with the new war paints fanatic and tell you unfiltered what I like and what I don't like so you can draw your own conclusions by the way I'm not part of the army painters Factory team or part of the social media bubble I received these paints for free samples like most of the paints I review but I don't take any payment and don't give comp compies any say in what videos and content I make I painted this model purely for research because as I regularly test paints on YouTube and need to gain practical experience with each range so let's get started with this striking scorpion Exar for priming I just used a dark green spray primer it's a thin coat of renegade green that I had left over for my review of color forges primers a lighter green would have been better for example sick Green from the valo hobby paint r the Army painter has also several green color primers but I've had recurring issues with clocked nozzles and cans losing the pressure so I can't recommend them anymore I hope they upgrade their primers just like they did with the war paints range as you can see I applied the primer quite thinly because I plan to base coat the model with an airbrush to test how wall paint's fanatic behave let's see how that goes as I've mentioned in my War paints fanatic review most of the colors are rather thick and you have to to add quite a bit of thinner to make them flow well through the airbrush I used valo thinner here but the Army painter also has its own airbrush thinner as a rule of thump it's always a good idea to stick to the same brand as the paints you want to dilute in my first attempt the paint was too thin as you can see here in my next attempt it was too thick and I got these ugly splatters however once I found the right ratio of paint and thinner which was around two to three parts of thinner and one part of paint War paint's fanatic sprayed well I'm using wild green from the deep green tried here which is the perfect base color for the Striking scorpion paint Scheme I had in mind I could also have applied this as a central gradient over the dark green primer but I wanted a classic flat Games Workshop look so here comes the first thing I've learned yes you can airbrush with war paints fanatic but it requires some experience if you're more of a beginner or are more of a brush painter like me and don't get out the airbrush that often pre thin airbrush paints like War paints air or game color air from valo will make your life much easier since I started using these paints I've been able to reduce the number of blockages and Clocks by about 90% feel free to let me know in the comments whether I should make a video about airbrush paints and don't forget to like And subscribe so you don't miss my future reviews as I have a lot of videos planned for 2024 now with the airbrushing done I start painting the base I always dry Rush the Bas at the beginning not the end because I don't want to accidentally hit the feet of my completed paint jobs with stray pigments for shading the Rocks I used light tone wash and for the sand strong tone wash which I diluted with a bit of fanatic wash medium my wash medium had sediments in the bottle a bit like cloudy apple juice but once dried I did notice anything unusual but you should keep an eye on this and use a different medium if necess necessary in fact contrast medium is my favorite medium for thinning washes and one coat paints but it's quite expensive I found that the spell Magic from scale 75 is a good and affordable alternative with the base done I wanted to pick the colors for highlighting and shading the Exar suit the largest part of the model it's always a good idea to work from the inside out and from the largest area to the smallest details I wanted to be guided by the flexible Triad system so for the highlights I went one One Step lighter than my base color wild green which was ferocious green for the Shadows I tried the darkest green of the tried Angel green it was definitely serviceable but not quite what I had in mind because I wanted to lean into the cool green shoe of the armor with a teal so next I tried the darker greens from teal tried but they were too muted for my taste ultimately I used speed paints for shading namely a mix of Shamrock green and Raging Sea to be honest I could have just used adari Emerald contrast paint but because I said I wanted to use only War paints fanatic I decided to stick to Army painter products for this video and mixed a similar Emerald color with speed paints last but not least I needed an even brighter green than ferocious green for the second Edge highlight but in a deep green Triad this was already the brightest color so I looked around the other Triads and found Mossy green the brightest color and a desaturated cool green tried so despite wanting to follow the flexible tride system for the green aspect Warrior suits in the end I had to combine colors from more than one tride and even speed paint to achieve the desired result in fact in my war paint fanatic review I pointed out that not all of the tries are laid out in the same way some cover all tones from light to dark and evenly spaced increments other lean more towards the brighter side to help you navigate the war paints fanatic range I've hand painted all 260 colors on plastic card and photograph them professionally you can grab the digital Swatch on my patreon for a small donation so this is my advice number two see the flexible Tri system more as a starting point and don't be shy to combine colors from various tries or your existing collection now that the colors for the armor have been selected it was time to put those shadows and highlights on the model I pan aligned the xar with my speed paint mix and tided up the armor with a wild green base color for the first highlight I applied ferocious green to the edges of the suit and I must say War Pain's fanatic made that harder than I thought as mentioned earlier most fanatic paints are relatively thick and need to be thin with water to flow well from the brush without smudging details additionally while the drying time is a bit longer than that of Citadel colors and the old war paints it's definitely not as long as that of the paints I use most of the time these days which are two things coats Pro cruel and the new valo game color in fact for some reason fanatic paints tend to thicken relatively quickly even on a wet pallette as you can see here this meant that highlighting required some practice as I always had to keep an eye on the flow of the paint to achieve smooth and sharp highlights I also noticed that some of the lighter colors such as ferocious green here tend to break apart quickly when thinned I've Illustrated this the test model here do you see in the lines I drew with diluted ferocious green how the pigments are somewhat unevenly distributed so I found highlighting with war paint's fanatic initially frustrating fortunately there is a solution the war paint stabilizer medium unlike many other acrylic mediums the stabilizer is completely transparent and also quite thin when I used it for delusion instead of water not only did the flow properties improve but the drying time and thus the working time became also a bit longer as you can see on the right side here the application and pigment distribution is more even with the added stabilizer with this layering and highlighting became much easier for me so this is number three if you want to unlock the full potential of War Pain's fanatic be sure to get a bottle of stabilizer medium it's also the perfect companion for glazing just to be clear though not all colors pose the same problems when they looted it seems to affect merely the lighter colors with lower opacity here you can see Mossy green which is my second highlight color for which I used a little bit of stabilizer medium to improve the flow but for the lighter colors from the teal tried like Hydra turre and Neptune glow which I used for highlighting the helmet plain water was perfectly fine don't get me wrong I think a lot of people will be very happy with these paints so after getting a handle on my delusion issues I proceeded to work through the various details of the model I wanted the Striking scorpions to be part of my existing wolf way and craft world IAL collection I painted all these models way before the release of War paints fanatic using a wild mix of different paint ranges including Citadel Vallejo and old war paints but for this video I wanted to try replicating my existing color palette using War paints fanatic only after all the fanatic range has 260 colors so there should be plent of options right well yes and no while I found replacements for most of the colors I used in my original paint Scheme they were three or four that posed a bit of a challenge raar flesh deathclaw Brown the old Worman Brown and to some extent doombull Brown all from Games Workshop warm orange brown tones are missing in The Fanatic range all the brown colors tend to be somewhat muted carelian skin was an acceptable match for Citadel Doom brown but my original base color for the leather pouches and straps however to replace verman Brown and death claw Brown which are used for highlighting the leather there was no way around mixing colors for this a lightened carelian skin with excessive amounts of lava orange one of the lighter colors from the orange triad more challenging was finding a replacement for raaka flesh which I originally used for the wraithbone weapons Raa flesh has quite a unique shade it's a grayish beige with a hint of red to concoct a matching Hue from war paint's fanatic I had to experiment quite a bit with various mixes in the end I came up with a mix of about one part of Obsidian Skin two parts of gargoyle gray and two parts of command khaki which provided quite a good match so this is my finding number four the war paint fanatic range offers a broad selection of 260 colors and yes the color palette covers all the corners you'd expect from a miniature paint range it includes all primary colors like yellow green red and blue secondary and tertiary colors metallics washes and so on but enti comparison individual colors seem to be a bit different from most other ranges despite the wide selection especially the warm Grays bone colors Browns and skin tones are quite different from for example their counterparts in the cital color range because I know many of you are interested in transitioning to the war pain fanatic range I've started to make these hand painted charts not only for war paints fanatic but all major paint ranges like Citadel and game color paints as they are compatible with each other they allow you to compare colors convert your old paint schemes or follow tutorials from white dwarf or games workshops YouTube channel with non citel paints you can grab these on my patreon link is in the description below so after some more work this is what my striking scorpion Exar looks like I hope you enjoy my take on this iconic as aspect Warrior Shrine and if you're interested I also made a complete step-by-step tutorial for this model but before we end this video let's take a look at the finish in my War paints fanatic review I noted The Fanatic range drives to a set in finish the Finish is slightly less glossy than the old army painter War paints but not as matte as for example the Leo model color or newer paint ranges like AK third gen two thing codes Pro acru or the new valo game color I would say they are equivalent to the finish of Citadel pains so don't throw these away their finish complement the fanatic range quite nicely matte paints are often less scratch resistant because the resins used are less durable additionally glossy paints and also varnishes are smoother on a microscopic level providing less traction for abrasion as I read in the comments of my last video many of you actually prefer a settin finish personally the Finish is not super important to me since I always varnish my models in the end which changes the Finish anyway I do this not only for protection but to unify the finishes of the various paint ranges I use which may have different levels of matness however I must say that I find matte paints more pleasant to work with while painting this is maybe a YouTuber thing but when I film for videos I need very strong light sources which can cause more distracting reflections with glossier paints especially when harl lighting black this can sometimes be challenging for my eyes do you also use a strong desk lamp and have ever noticed this or is it just me let me know in the comments and if you want to know how to find the perfect met varnish that truly leaves your Miniatures mat without ruining them with a cloudy or Frosty finish then be sure to check out this video here on the right and also don't miss my detailed War pins fanatic review see you soon and happy hobbying

Channel: Stahly (Tale of Painters)

Views: 16,711

Keywords: Warpaints Fanatic review, Warpaints Fanatic, Warpaints, Fanatic, The Army Painter, Review, Opinion, Warhammer, Stahly, Tale of Painters, The Army Painter review, Honest Warpaint Fanatic review, Warpaint Fanatic review, Warpaints Fanatic comparison, Warpaints Fanatic advice, Warpaints Fanatic tips, Warpaints Fanatic how to, How to use Warpaints Fanatic, Are Warpaints Fanatic good?, Should I buy Warpaints Fanatic

Id: 9kI3pRRXi0Q

Length: 14min 1sec (841 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 10 2024