2019 USA Climbing: Sport & Speed Open National Championships | Semi-Finals

[Music] washington-dc the nation's capital is a very fitting location for the top climbers in the country because at the end of the day we will have a much better idea about who might represent the United States at the 2020 Summer Olympics it's the second and final day of the 2019 u.s. a climbing sport and speed open national championships at the sport rock climbing centers in Alexandria Virginia thanks for joining us everybody I'm Sean woodland with former US national team member megin Martin we are set for the semifinal round of the sport competition and now Meghan the pressure is on the climbers only get one chance on a single route and only the top eight men and women move on to the finals yeah it's a very high-pressure round because this is how you get into the final and they do only get one try and they also different from yesterday do not to watch anybody as we're looking at them right now they are previewing the route with each other so they can talk about it and they are allowed to touch the start hold only but they are not allowed to touch any other holds and they don't want to watch each other they only have six minutes to figure this thing out before they are put in isolation and as Megan said they do not get to watch each other climb let's start with the men's side as there are 23 men who made it to this semifinal round as some champions exemptions expanded the field from 20 to 23 and the top qualifiers will go last led by Shaun Bailey who keeps the momentum that he grabbed by winning the 2019 USA climbing bouldering Open national championship he has looked perfect he did have a perfect round yesterday by topping both of the routes and generally with ease so I'm expecting to see a lot more from Shaun Bailey today as this round is generally more difficult and it looks like he has a lot more to give fifteen-year-old Colin Duffy nearly matched Sean Bailey yesterday we saw Colin Duffy at the combined invitational do extremely well especially in the sport competition so no surprise here but to get that close to Shaun Bailey and this is his first year competing in open competitions and have topped one qualification route and then falling just before the finish of the second one was phenomenal and when it comes to that US overall national team Colin Duffy has an outside shot of making that we'll talk more about that when he actually gets on the wall for his descent but now on the women's side 25 women in the field here is again champions exemptions expanded the field from 20 to 25 top qualifiers going last and we talked about momentum with Shaun Bailey it's the same case with the Shema sharee she she has been just so technically on after the first qualifying round and she had a near-perfect round she did actually top both of the routes unfortunately one of the tops was outside of that six-minute time limit but she was still many many holds ahead of the rest of her competitors showing that should be interesting around today Brooke Rabbit 2 is having herself a great weekend not only in the semifinals here in the sport round but also in the finals of the speed round exactly and she was in route for him yesterday on these four truths able to get really high on the 1 and then top the other one putting her in a great position going into the semi-finals and Brooke rabbit who is looking to lock up one of those four spots on the u.s. overall national team which is the first big step and getting herself to her the Olympics in 2020 the semifinal round the sport competition is next when we return to Alexandria Virginia [Music] the 2019 us a climbing sport and speed open national championships are brought to you by the North Face inspiring an enabling exploration since 1966 the nation's capital we're gathered just outside Washington DC in Alexandria Virginia the sport rock climbing centers Sean woodland and former US national team member Meagan Martin as we are ready for the first climbers of the semifinal round once again the top eight will move on to the finals and just one single ascent and that is Garrett Gregor who will be the first male on the wall and Emily her dhic will be the first on a six minute clock fun fact they got this thing Garrett is Emily's coach actually so this is fun to see coach and athlete climbing at the same time both off to a good start Garrett making his way through these open hand pinchy holds Emily on the right of the screen trying to figure out just exactly how she wants to get through these small crimps not so many options for her feet so it kind of is an uncomfortable position to start on the route it's a little bit indecisive here the holds are kind of spread apart so you don't have a lot of options so you have to make sure you're going to each hold with the proper hand as Emily was just kind of going back and forth which Michigan just wanted to have on those holes but when they're that small you just really need to figure it out quickly and each hold is worth a single point there are 49 hand holds on both of these routes there you go the more points you get and then the clips as well those are point zero one each so every time you clip in you add point zero one to your score and then there are some partial points the athletes can get awarded based on what they do before they fall off the wall starts off not too too difficult but it's meant to tax you kind of early so that when you get to this upper section or to the middle of the wall before the upper section you're supposed to already be a little tired and maybe a little flustered making it more difficult to make those harder moves later we talked a little bit about this yesterday about the mental aspect of the sport is almost more important than the physical aspect and the mental aspect really tested here because they just have such limited time to figure this thing out exactly the mental aspect is a huge part most of these athletes are physically fit enough but can they make it happen on the day Garet working his way into that block cold given that Gaston position with his left hand Garrett got about half way up in the world short of halfway really good effort there by Garrett Gregor Emily heretic taking a second here to figure out what she wants to do next she isn't a nice position where her feet are pretty stable so she can take a moment although her hands hold her small to kind of pause before these punchy moves that she's just now getting into be a good place for her to clip it's gonna take that time right now to clip before getting into another powerful session then the grip slips and Erlich is off the wall and that was another thing we mentioned yesterday that fatigue point it seems like it's simple to clip into that but it can be so difficult sometimes yes once you start getting tired clipping does become part of the route itself in terms of difficulty it's hard to let go with one hand and just have your feet and another hand on the wall once that fatigue starts to hit we'll have to see just how many points exactly that she accumulated but before you fall off if you make positive progress towards the next hold you're awarded 0.3 if you actually get your hand on usable surface you are awarded 0.5 so Garrett Gregor had 26 hand holds he was able to get his hand at least unusable surface before he fell off and then he was in six clips that's the twenty six point five six for his score exactly in one thing in climbing when it comes to competitions with sport climbing you know I used to coach a lot and we would always tell the kids when you fall make sure you fall up so you want to be going in that upward motion at least when you're falling so you can get that positive movement point partially 21.0 five out of a possible forty nine point one one for Emily her deck so 21 hand older than five Clips is she fell not making positive upward momentum and was not able to get her using the surface before she came off the wall next to climbers right on the floor it's Nathan Hadley for the men in Estelle Park for the women and remember they did not get to watch Greg or her dick find this badly 26 years old one of the older competitors in the field at at Seattle Washington has a wingspan of 6 feet even that's what that number will mean the plus or minus is in relation to their height he has a wingspan that is one inch longer than his height still Park on the other hand has a wingspan that is two inches shorter than her five foot stature just 15 years old Estelle's one of those other athletes who is more on the younger side so this is kind of her first year into the open competition scene it's really cool to see a lot of these younger athletes already be so successful with only being in their first year competing against the rest of the adults Nathan getting ready to get into this more difficult section on the men's route starts to get quite powerful here gets onto that volume nicely I have to shuffle his way up there to get into that clip Hadley making some good progress through this part of the route stand up move here that he's gonna do after he Clips it's one of the more powerful moves on the route the hold he's going to is blocked by another hold so he can only use a partial part of the hold as he's trying to get in there gets his hand into that undercling position which is a better way to stand up hopefully you can match do so still not a very comfortable position there as he's fighting through Hadley doing a nice job here and we talked with Ryan Sewell who's the chief route setter for this competition and he told us that his intent was to make these routes tougher as you advance so Nathan Hadley is now getting into really difficult parts and he is off the wall a new high point on the men's route and definitely one of the more difficult parts because you have to stand up into that under clean and you're just kind of pressing and using every bit of tension in your body to stay on the wall the stop part still underneath where Emily heard him well before he was trying to figure out the right body position as I was saying earlier it's just a bit of discomfort on the beginning of this women's route similar to one of the qualification routes where you're doing moves and you don't necessarily seem to too hard but you never feel like you're in a steady position you're always kind of trying to move and find that position where you feel more comfortable and secure and it kind of just isn't there so you kind of have to just accept it and keep moving but in a competition you don't know that that's the route setters plan so you're just kind of she's just trying to figure out those parts sort of saver for us little fatigues here getting a kneebar there to kind of rest although she will need to get out of that knee bar in order to reach that next hold those a knee bar helps to take the pressure off the arms and you know get a little rest it's pulling her to the right side and machines and make their way over left more really nice cross over here [Music] mark is able to get through that point and then as she was reaching she is off the wall but just short of her Emily verdict was as we were now through just two climbers for both the men and the women Nathan Hadley the most recent man on the wall with a score of thirty point five six so the semifinal round underway here in Alexandria Virginia we'll have more when we come back [Music] we are in the early stages of the semifinal round for the sport competition here at the sport rock climbing centers in Alexandria Virginia that has Stefan Felder the third man on the wall out of Kings Beach California just 17 years old Mia blendy is the third woman on the wall it still party we left before we were able to give you her score she scored 19 point three five so a couple points shy of where Emily heard ik was so heard ik still has the high point but we are very early as we are just through now two of the 25 women in the semifinals and two of the 23 men in the semi-finals Devon Felner right here looking a little more casual than the previous timers did on this route really getting into that undercling section and not looking as taxing like you can kind of figure it out a little more this is where it really starts to turn up though good it's just a hold in which you can get to the next hold so a bump or really he has to make that clip as long as he does not have that hand draw but that will be the new high point on the wall for the men and the Wendy is now off as well [Applause] the Wendy fails to match emily verdict who still has the high point on the wall one more look at what just happened to her hear me boo and he just didn't get enough power standing up on her foot to get to that next handhold the feet she was on or the foothold she was on is not very good so it's hard to kind of generate that power for the stand up and she just didn't have it at that moment after talking to the route setter is about these two climbs it's been made very apparent that they are quite difficult as they need to be because we do have a lot of very strong climbers competing here and there is a lot at stake felon her with a score of thirty three point zero six he is now your new leader with the high point on the wall there are forty nine point one one points possible that's if you get to the top me if Wendy is done as well as we are through three climbers each nineteen point five five out of a possible forty nine point one one points for me over Wendy so Emily verdict still has the top mark at twenty one point zero five the top eight climbers after the semifinal round will move on to the finals that is Miami Dare who will be next up for the women's Stanford California 20 years old [Music] for the men that is Samba Queen California flowers just 16 years old my getting started here on this uncomfortable section a we've seen a couple of the women be indecisive about how they want to go to this first hand hold mentally it's a little unnerving to step onto the wall and be confused right off the start so to take a moment to kind of calm yourself down as we really get into the climbing you coached athletes who have been in similar situations what do you tell them to kind of keep in mind when they find themselves in that sort of predicament I always say that the best thing to do is kind of take a second if you can find that position where you can be calm to really figure it out and don't keep moving just slow yourself down and kind of look at what's going on find the right body position and just stay calm Sam starting to get through these open hands section before he gets to more difficult part of the route these opening looms for the men are pretty straightforward but just meant to make you a little tired as you approach that middle section of the wall whereas the women's route is a little more cryptic when it comes to the sequencing as we've seen already the women kind of be indecisive about how exactly they want to go to each hole Sam McQueen continues to make some steady progress here Steffan felon or the last man on the wall sat the highpoint collected 30 3.06 at the possible forty nine point one one point to that right now is the mark to beat but again very early here in the semifinal round McQueen the fourth of 23 men to make his ass and nice use of a toe hook there by Sam McQueen to keep him sucked into the wall and in a comfortable position to clip with his arms straight so that he isn't clipping with a half bent arm that way he's able to make sure the blood is flowing a bit more and conserve his energy because this is where the route really begins to get difficult as he has these powerful stand up moves that requires all the body tension he has to actually stay on the wall those kind of moves are also really difficult on your breathing I feel like it's hard to have those nice deep breaths that keep your blood flowing so it creates a little bit of a panic so the better you can breathe through those movements the more energy you'll have later on seems a little unsure here of how he wants to get into that next stand-up move the athletes only have six minutes to get as far as they possibly can they are on separate clocks right now she's going to do something a little different we saw both stuff and Felner and Nathan how they go with their brain though with their left hand to the black hole just did not have a solid grip on that and the Queen's climb as Maya Madera continues to make their way out the long she is close to the point where every verdict was as her dick has the top score right now at twenty one point zero five and Maya Miguel looking to best back [Applause] [Music] [Applause] right there by Miami dare lots of powerful movements she's a very strong Boulder which served a while on this route just ran out of a little bit of gas there given what she did on those final moments on the wall looks like she may have a chance of passing her dick now she should be in the top spot currently she just wasn't able to generate enough off of her foot to get to that next hole but she did get back positive movement the question is whether or not the judges will actually give her credit for getting her hand on usable space which will increase our score slightly sam queen meanwhile 30 point-0 630 scored hand holds and then six clips 0-6 puts him in third place going through the score with the judges for judging explaining clearly why she's been given the score that she will end up with it's a great thing that you get to check with the judge because if you disagree then you can file an appeal right away we know that you've been scored properly now Adair will play the waiting game to see if she did it enough to get herself into the top eight definitely a good spot right now as she was as when you come out early you want to be at the top right away twenty three point three six that is the new top mark for Miami dare as we've seen a few athletes go on these routes it's definitely clear that they are difficult seeing as they haven't gotten too far up on them yet which is exactly what we should be seeing right now I'm just in terms of difficulty in who we want to end up making it into the final Josh Levin is on the wall now getting set to make his climb for the men and on the women side this is sienna cop who is alive for a spot on that US national team that is the next big step towards getting yourself to the Olympics the good news for Sienna is that she has already made the finals of the speed competition you are awarded points based on how well you do in competition and those points factor in to the u.s. national overall team the top four gets selected cop came into this weekend in seventh place but courtesy of what she did in the speed competition she has closed that gap as she is guaranteed at least 80 points and she can add even more here in the sport competition so things are going to get interesting speed will be later on tonight the finals and again cop is in that top eight and she is a very good speed climber so there's a possibility that she could do very well there and get a lot a lot of points there you get 200 for winning the competition 164 second one thirty-four third and then we work our way down the standings and you get fewer points the farther down you finish Siena is looking much better on this route than she did on the qualifiers yesterday definitely reading that beginning section nicely and never really hesitating which hesitation on routes this long really zaps your energy so she's in a really nice position right now as she approaches the more powerful section of the client little indecisive there about the foot Ciena cop trying to get past Miami dares Top Marques she just said it twenty-three point three six on the left Josh Levin is working his way up the wall and trying to get close to the thirty three point zero six market Stefan Felder put up to five hours ago santé starting to get a little bit fatigued across smooth nicely [Applause] [Applause] before going to another this is a typical cross move that she's gonna have to do here really powerful and if she can get her right foot up if you better to have both feet on but you should get the least positive momentum so point three will be added to her scorn it looks like she will have the new mark to be but we are early here 25 climbers in the women's field here in the semifinals 23 for the man Josh Levin about to get into this somewhat awkward stand up [Music] fada here or simple thing by taking that black volume with his left hand putting him in the proper position should make the clip right here he doesn't want to have to do it later he's if he doesn't clip before his foot is past that hanging carabiner he would get called down and this looks like the better clipping position next to you he's trying to reach out there anything oh he can't get to it switch up his body position a little bit [Applause] Josh makes he'll hold his right hand now he's got to get that clip that's by his right foot as Megan said if he passes that he's gonna get called off the wall [Music] just go for it and take the points which is what he just decided to do when you find yourself in that position where a little the positive momentum or getting your hand on usable surface is worth much more than getting a clip clip worth just point zero one pods with momentum worth 0.3 0.5 for actually getting your handle using the surface Siena meanwhile sets the new best mark for the women twenty five point three seven we'll be back with more from Alexandria after this semifinal round of the sport competition at the 2019 USA climbing sport open national championship continues that as Arabella Jerry L who is next on the wall for the women when we left you Josh Levin had just come off the wall and Megan talked about why this was a decision that he would make not clipping and then just going for that next handhold and it actually pays off for him because the point five he was given for that move puts him point five and Josh Levin is now your new leader is fellow Giri L is aqua that sometimes there's some quick decision-making in terms of points and suppose worth more than the actual flips and if you realize there's no way you can clip it's better just to go for the point but it is unfortunate because you know everyone's trying to talk so when you have to make that decision you know the top is this is no orig the 23 year old out of Minneapolis Minnesota wingspan even to his five foot six height Noah's on these opening moves that are meant to tax you before you get to the very physical section of this climb for the men lots of wrestling of the volumes that have to be done after already doing about 20 movies remember every handhold is worth a point there are 49 hand holds on this root and 11 clips that is a score a best score of 49 point 1 1 if you get to the top inside the six minute window he can take a breath here before he has to really commit to grabbing that next small crimp hold and then using his seal to then rock up on this volume and stand up into the next hold which is quite difficult it's where we've seen the men start to struggle update on Arabella darielle score we saw her come off the wall twenty-three point five six up leaves [Applause] Ridge he reached out with the right hand to try to secure hold will not be able to match Leben's mark looks like he kind of ran out of gas they're making the right decision to between to continue trying to move able to touch that next hold which should give him useful surface ally Nietzsche on the wall for the women just sixteen years old out of Ann Arbor Michigan Alys so far is moving pretty quickly through this opening section on the women's climb which is just a little uncomfortable and off-balance and then it breaks to that steeper section that becomes powerful really quick so it's a very different style of climbing from one section to the next Nishi the only climber on the wall right now is Luke mirroring is getting set for the men that's Noah Ridge 31.5 six is his course he comes up to handhold short of matching Josh Levin score Ali just doing what I feel like is like the first committing move on this route it's one of the bigger moves to a bad hold this next section has we live in a little bit of trouble just figuring out which he needs to go where there's multiple ways to do it but each woman has kind of fiddled around Ali just touch broke holes but we're deciding which one to actually drab this is the point on this route where the women that we've watched climb so far really start to slow down and there's this new bar here so they get into this moment where they're like oh maybe I should rest here and they can't go back and forth but this new bar also pulls them to the right and they really need to go left so it's almost a little bit of a trap it's this moment where you don't have spend too much time there but it's also so enticing district very little longer [Music] one of the more powerful moves right here [Music] prepare to make the clip the first really big stopping point powerful the way she just kept it fit on there it's helpful but now she really has to set up to jump me she couldn't quite get there with her left hand and she is off but getting close to the high point so solid effort for her so early though here in the semifinal round Luke nearing now on the wall for the man we've got a good rhythm currently moving quite quickly through the beginning section 20 years old from Atlanta Georgia and a wingspan that's just over six feet into that whole crate dynamical which it's a little risky if he can get up into this next volume he can take a breath before he has to start in that stand-up section when you really just don't have a chance to take a breath for a bit and then you're presented with a cliff that seems well as it right now it hasn't been figured out it's just - away from that clip as Nishi will have a score of twenty three point five six she ties Arabella jereal and I do think that the clip that has yet to be figured out will be a turning point of whether or not the men are successful or more successful on this route because it seems to be trying to give a score that will put him in the top eight that will move him on to the finals it's the top eight men and top eight women moving on to the final round we'll take place later on this evening [Music] [Music] [Applause] right and doing a nice job and trying to reach in his left hand and left hand slips and earring is off but that looks like it would be good enough for him to take over the top spot here in the semifinal round we'll have more from the sport rock climbing centers in Alexandria Virginia when we come back [Music] mariel horsemen on the wall for the women as the semifinal round continues here us a climbing sport open national championship and with that portsmen is off the wall but may have just set the new high point Mario climbed really well through that section where we've seen the women really started to struggle this is her first open Nationals hearing meanwhile was off the wall before we left for break 33.5 7 that is the new top mark by 1/100 of a point that clip that he was able to get into making the difference there that's a crucial clipping point for the men to continue on in the climbing of that route so it's really the turning point meanwhile muriel portsmen just set the new top mark for the women at twenty seven point zero seven john brock now on the wall for the men John Brock is one of our taller competitors with some really impressive flexibility which he's had to use quite a few times in those situations where maybe he doesn't really fit in the box as well but the movement requires due to his height it's really cool to see climbers adapt in that way trying to make his way through this opening section of the men's route as quickly as possible before it really gets difficult Lorin bear on the wall for the women sixteen years old she is trying to follow up Mariola portsmen who just said the best mark for the women getting 27 of the 49 handholds and seven of the clips for a score of twenty seven point zero seven but we again are still early here in the semifinal process top eight women and top eight men after all have climbed move on to the finals Loren's making her way through these volumes and more technical climbing on the route for more successful women on the route already have moved through this section a little quicker just conserving their energy when they get to that power section that really it turns it up really quickly it's kind of probably somewhat of a shock to the system John Brock on that portion of the route that is really given the fiber some problems sequencing on that section is really important he tried to go to that volume with his right hand but we've only seen it successfully done when they stand up and try to go with their left hand and again they don't get to watch each other climb so they have to figure that out of the fly exactly and when the climbers are previewing the routes they talk about what's going on but you don't really know until you're on the wall what's the back you're gonna feel right so you might have an idea people really need to have a plan a B and C so you can fix it on the fly just got a good look at how small some of those hand holds actually are and to be so precise and strong at the same time keep yourself up on that route as warned bear goes for another clip on her 'santa and that's really why the beginning of this women's route is so difficult in terms of how off-balance it could be and how important it is to be in sequence of grabbing the hold it the proper hands they are so small setting up for this more powerful moves choosing to mash here which Sienna cop also did one here are your current standings now as we are through eight climbers on the women's side the top eight move on is Stelfox mark of nineteen point [Applause] bear is doing that's probably gonna get bumped down and bears off the law looks like she got close to her sienna cop was when she set the top mark to 25 point three seven Lauren bear was just able to grab that orange hold that mari el Horseman's jumped to but since Lauren was able to pause on it she should get that usable surface of the orange hold there for putting her down in your spot [Music] accurately came off that moment where her body came out of the law meanwhile John Brock with a score of 29.56 Ross Wilkerson in the upper right hand corner of your screen is the next man on the wall it's really important on this opening section of the men's room to be as efficient as possible you don't want to have to try too hard at the beginning unnecessarily by making a silly mistake that saps your energy a little more because the real climbing is going to happen once you get into those black volumes six feet tall a 6-3 wingspan and yesterday in the qualifying round it seemed like the difficulty steadily ramped up whereas here it looks like it's taking huge leaps as you work your way up exactly it's not as the increments of difficulty or not as small as yesterday since it is the semifinals round you really need the setters always try to challenge the climbers a bit more than in the qualification sure so that they are able to get the best climbers into that final Ross is gonna get ready to work his way up into the stand-up move see most the men click before able to secure the hold with the right hand and get the click of them the left-hand pocket and clip in with his right now it's vital to go to this neck screen hold with this right hand in order to make the standup easier every man has gone left-handed not been able to do it hmm but this is not a bad idea to trick first now we'll see if you can figure out a way to get around and even though he's kinda bout a sequence and there it goes that's been the sticking point so far on this roof for the man is fulkerson is off getting a little creative there towards the end that does look like the better way to make that clip as long as you come back down and then make sure you get your right hand on that second green hold let's see if anyone else figures out that little trick Fulkerson is off the walls we continue to work our way through the semifinal round we'll be back in Alexandria Virginia updated men's standings here in the sport semifinal round Luke Mearing still has the top mark viable one-one hundredth of a point over Josh Levin John Brockett 29.56 is your eighth best mark at this point as Ross for person who we saw come off the wall before with the break is now in seventh place but we were only through nine of the 23 men in the semifinal round so a lot can change [Applause] Bridget Weiss 15 year old from Royal Oak Michigan one of the shorter athletes in the field is five foot two climbing nicely through this section really taking the time to breathe air as we saw that close up on her face really see the deep breaths which in a position like that on the route is smart to take where she's standing Soloman barf another athlete from Northern California [Applause] it's all trying to work his way through this part quickly he's had a lot of success sport climbing indoors and outdoors placed third at this competition last year take a look at Bridget ways who just came off the wall now she just kind of was trying to manipulate the hold there and happen to slip like I was saying earlier those holes are so small so making sure you're grabbing them properly immediately is vital to success on the route and looking in a good position here dead rhythms as he gets ready to get into the difficult part on this route smart move by a clipping here before standing up Ross focus on the side of the clip leader and it did look a bit more taxing really good hand switch of position there he was trying to understand it first Bridget Weiss we saw her come off the wall her score nineteen point zero five will not crack the topic curious to see if Solomon figures out if he can clip from that second green more before getting into the stand up looks like he's gonna go straight for the stand up [Music] I just have to figure out that cliff later does have a good wingspan so maybe he can actually reach it before coming out to the pocket he's gonna try that clip and for able to reach it looking pretty comfortable here just needs to figure out how to get that left hand the right hands up first on the ones out of volume and then the left hand to where he's standing up more and not in that raft position that's bringing his body down a bit cuz he needs to be in a more upright position to get that pocket he is approaching the top 40 five seven so keep flying so far for Salomon bars [Applause] lamb brain Vincente Soloman bars is going to be our new leader now how much does he have well you have yet to see a man get to this point on the wall he's in a nice position here where he can kind of take a second as he works his way up shuffling on that you see those yellow holes are actually blocking and gap between the volume and the wall outside where there are just little Jets as we call it which are 20 foot pools that are just adding a little bit more friction to the volume boss doing a nice job of negotiating he's wrong he'll go for yet another clip and the top is now within sight for Solomon Barth it's the very top of your screen take that's where he needs to get the workers score of 49 [Music] donating to continue the Brussels [Applause] and he will be your new leader he is the first man to get himself Pat's that really big sticking point that we've seen stop a lot other climbers dead in their tracks Jessica for cannon is off the wall for the women we will await Solomon Barnes score and as we do that we'll take a break we'll be back at the sport rock climbing centers in Alexandria Virginia [Music] the 2019 us a climbing sport and speed open national championships are brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 semifinal round of the sport event is underway and Jessica for Canada an emotional after her climb ends way before she wanted she has a score of just nineteen point five five and probably will not be good enough to hit her in the top eight meanwhile Salomon Barth a lot of smiles for him as he is the man to beat right now forty one point five nine forty one scored handholds made contact with usable surface before he came off we clipped in nine times Zach gallon now on the wall for the men and as far as the US overall national team is concerned he has already blocked up a spot on that he is also the overall leader in the points but he won the combined Invitational event that was held in January in Salt Lake City in the winner of that event gets an automatic bid to the national teams with just three spots up for grabs here Zach quickly moving through this first half of the route we've seen him be so powerful and just phenomenal national events but endurance is something that he's been trying to work on more because it's [Applause] inhibition just showing meanwhile Jenny Jiang is off the wall for the women in gala just came off on his find he's not able to match Salomon barks leopard one more look at Jenny Jane she was able to stick that jump move but just not unable to do the next move she actually went with the wrong hand all the women who have stuck that move crossed Zach just kind of zapped his energy on the previous move because he had to try a little harder because he was a little out of sequence just wasn't enough endurance there for that next move but it's like we said that gal is already on that overall national team so although I'm sure he wanted to do better and make it into the final he's still safe for those upcoming World Cup events Jenny Jiang going over her score with her judge Zach gala will be awarded a score of thirty one point five seven he will lead the forward like he said Megan he's already on that national team and that is not the final step towards possibly making it to Tokyo but it is a big first step it's a very necessary first step because these athletes need to be able to compete on the World Cup circuit so that they can hopefully be eligible to go to those competitions where people will actually make Olympic teams and all the other 26.5 and when it comes to the Olympics at most the United States can only send two men and two women exactly so we've got a lot of people fighting for just a couple spots and that's it for lucky we get two and two Alex Fritz is on the left he's getting set for the men when Mason will be on the wall for the women another cool coach athletes sign will climbing things happening here is Alex Ritz as a coach at vertical world where Quinn Mason for their team about halfway through the semifinal round here's 23 mens are in the field here and 25 women as champions exemptions expanded the field for 20 and added some additional athletes of the process Quinn's got a nice early rhythm on this very technical opening of the women's route it's really smart to not waste too much time down here being indecisive as the moves start to become more difficult the further up you get on this route we've seen a lot of the women's struggle once they get into that power section Morin Berra pardon me Lauren bear still has the best score of twenty seven point five seven on the women's side definitely putting her in a good position right now before some of the [Music] climbers would have done better already come out the top climbers from the qualifying round and go last but again they don't get to watch each other climb exactly but they can hear what's going on and when you before you get on the wall you can see the drawers swinging a little bit so you kind of have an idea of at least where the person before you may have gotten or just how long they're climbing but I mean it's probably better not to focus on that cuz really you should be focusing on yourself getting ready to get into the more difficult section on the men's route he suites a pretty good time here hasn't wasted a whole lot of time when it's really hard chose to skip that bump hold though underneath the volume which made him do a more powerful move which hopefully doesn't come back to us hurt him but you don't want to have to try too hard early on because there's a lot of climbing to do and a lot of more difficult climbing at the top and those three sort of Half Dome volumes that's really been the most difficult part of this climb so far as no one has gotten to the top of this thing for the man no one has topped the woman's rude either we're about halfway through the field in men's standings running the top eight moving on to the final Solomon Barth with the high point at 41 point five nine Sam McQueen right now clinging to that eighth and final spot Alex nicely in that undercling section women's standings Lauren bare by half a point over Muriel portsmen Emily her dekat 21 point zero five that's the mark that you need to beat to get yourself into the top eight right now and she was the first to go who's getting ready to get into that more powerful section the moves definitely build here the next four movements we really don't have time second-guess yourself you really just have to go and keep that rhythm Alex trying to figure out this tricky clip section trying to decide if he wants to try to click early let's stand up and try to cook later different position to be in Mason he's got to that point that we've seen a lot of the women farmers get to and just can't hang on and she is off the wall but a great effort for her looks like she might be in the top eight it's really important on that move to have enough power to get to that pole but not too much it really wants to make this slip before YouTube's moving [Applause] more points before climbing ah he's not too good trying to kick the draw to make it swing [Applause] trying to time it and he's off the wall now is Fritz is done we saw it Josh Levin earlier kind of make that same decision whether he's gonna go through the clip or try to at least get some usable space before he came off the wall and add to his score one more look at him trying to get that thing to swing towards him which is definitely allowed you can kick the clips to cause momentum to bring them to you you can never grab a draw if you grab a draw though you would be called off because it's weighting it but causing momentum that's totally valid those clips are there for safety reasons only they can't use them for any type of support that can't use the world for any type of support it's just safety precaution when Mason 25.0 six will not be good enough to get her in the top eight is he saw her come off the wall and like his way to the Maggie hammer so Quinn Mason disappointed and she had copies there that consoled her a lot on the line here these climbers Maggie hammer next up for the women [Music] Maggie's trying to be as efficient as possible in this opening section since there is a lot of climbing to do on this route another one of our young athletes is 16 years old wingspan matches her height and she's got a beat 20 1.05 she's got to get 21 handholds and five clips to tie Emily her dick and then anything after that would move her into eighth place Emily heard a fairly the last woman into the finals we are past the halfway mark 25 women to be on the wall here in the semifinal round Maggie's struggling to find a comfortable position here on this part of the route then just doesn't feel comfortable so she needs to figure out [Applause] [Music] [Applause] those more powerful nudes that are going to come up do it on those green holes it'll be vital for her to make sure she can get her feet back on quickly as those modes would be a bit bigger for her since she is one of the smaller competitors that's mad bull who's on the wall after Alex fritz and Fritz is now 7th in the semifinals of the score of 30 1.06 beating Nathan Hadley is now the man with the target on his back this is a route that methyls could definitely do well on as long as he complies quickly through those opening the easier moves very successful folder having a lot of power so that these are the u.s. national team overall standings coming into this weekend and Matt Fultz is basically the only guy who has a realistic shot of chasing down drew who wanna for that fourth position the top four moving on to the US team and Holmes has got to have a strong performance here at squad [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] that [Applause] [Music] [Applause] Oh secure that was a right hand and then she's off but you'll probably get credit for that handhold it's up to the judge but she did have a grip on it for a good amount of time definitely definitely looked like good control there but unfortunately she did not move upward off of it so she won't get that extra partial point that leaves Matt folks is the only climber on the wall right now and again a lot on the line for him not only trying to get himself into the finals but trying to keep himself alive for spotting that u.s. overall national team interesting that he killed again that great small hold versus left into the shoulder resection endurance but hopefully he's able to find their position too [Applause] both steady and then he is off the wall [Music] now the question is did he do enough to get into the top eight it's again he's got to get into the finals a lot of other climbers to come still faults again the only guy who really has a realistic chance of chasing down drew who wanna will await his score before we come back to the sport rock climbing centers in Alexandria Virginia Maggie hammer getting a well deserved hug for her efforts here in the semifinal round of the sport competition her score of twenty seven point zero seven ties her for second place with Mariel portsmen arabella Jerry all now moves into eighth place of 23.5 six she and Ally Nishi that's the score that the women need to beat in order to get themselves into the finals we are reaching the back half of the order for both the men in the women in this semifinal stage Catherine lamb 21 year old Stanford California has been able to make pretty quick work of this opening technical section on the women's climb just taking a couple moments here to prepare for that steeper more power production for the men Hobbes Kessler on the wall tall athlete with an even longer wingspan [Applause] [Applause] and if you're new to the sport of climbing you've probably already figured this out but this is a young person's sport during your 20s you're consider this music back [Applause] showing that she definitely has a lot left in her team hey Lando getting close to the high point [Applause] get a hold of that crimp and actually click here now if we thought that section for this she need to go all the way that she needed to go to the whole random and she was gone to the court she tried to go to with her right hand afterwards so this is sequencing mistake thereby but still she will be the new leader one more look at their final moments on the wall just choosing the wrong sequence she should be happy with that [Music] meanwhile seeing his client come to an end looked at so he kind of took a little too much time at that beginning part lost a little bit of his power going into that really aggressive stand up undercling move that has been the stopping point for quite a few men here in this semifinal round we await the scores for both the athletes who were just on the wall we don't know exactly what Katherine lamb got for the women but we do know she got the high point judges explaining the score to her remember they get a point for every handhold there are a total of 49 on both routes and they get point zero one for every clip and then there are some additional points that are granted based on what they do before they fall off 29 5-8 Katie lamb is your new leader she secures 29 hand holds she got eight clips and then right before she fell off she was able to make contact with usable surface with her hand that's an additional Charlie Osbourne up next for the men as we are now in the back half of the semifinal round begin the top qualifiers go last so in theory we should see people getting further and further as they go on but it doesn't always end up working out that way as we saw with Solomon birth he went a little earlier who currently still has that men's high point we watched Matt Fults climb before we left full tent a score of 30 point-0 6 doesn't look like that's gonna get him into the top eight your your updated women standings in the semi-finals Katherine lamb just set the new high point twenty nine point five eight and Allie Nishi twenty three point five six that is what you need to score if you want to have a chance of getting yourself into the finals on the men's side Salomon barb 41 point five nine and Hobbes Kessler at thirty point five six just squeaking in as of now but we still have some of the top climbers to go here [Music] Charlotte Charlie Osborne to work his way through this section early on was being a little indecisive with which hand to go to some of the hold so he needs to definitely find that rhythm so he can be prepared mentally to get through that really difficult powerful section 15 year-old Sarah Kate Ashton on the wall for the women already looking pretty smooth through this technical section really really focusing on keeping her hips into the wall through that technical climbing so there's no room for error Charlie Osborne meanwhile is a very nice job of keeping a steady pace and working his way towards that first really big crux of this route needs to get ready to grab that crimp hold and decide whether or not he wants to make the click here or later and then stand up into that really aggressive shoulder who choose to make the clip first I think that's why he's nicely into that under clean now this is where it gets really tough the next clip it's at the top of your screen that's the one that's really been hanging some climbers up the combination of the quick decision making about the clip as well as just the very physical aspect of the section of the climb makes it difficult to make the right decision quickly [Music] making a really good decision here by kind of staying in that position until he knows exactly what he wants to do because once you get stood up into this next volume you really are in an uncomfortable taxiing position so you can't sit around thinking about what you want to do Osbourne looks like he has to figure it out now the trick is reaching over and getting himself in that clip to his right through austerity passion has come off the wall for the women to try to keep moving and then quick later which we've seen work reaching across and they able to secure it doing a nice job of look like you've rested it against his leg [Applause] Charlie Osbourne looking good here really smart move [Music] making really good decisions here now get his left hand over there we can get into a better position to take a second that was about where Solomon both yell - so Charlie Osbourne may not have the best score but his score will be good enough to get him into the top eight I think I said earlier at that clip that he was able to figure out in a timely fashion is that crucial point on this route in order to get past that section of the climb that we've seen so many men struggle at Charlie Osborne will await his official score looks like he'll have a spot in the top eight more when we return [Music] well into the back half of the semifinal round in the 2019 USA climbing sport open national championship that was Sarah Kay dashing who was just off the wall these are your current standings in the semi final Solomon bar still has the high point in Alex Fritz 31.0 6 in Charley Osborne we just saw him on the wall he put himself in second place with 30 5.08 as Xander Waller is now the man on the wall on the other side of his Natalia gross and more on her in a second but these are your overall standings for the women in the semi-finals is Katherine lamb is still your leader Sarah Kate Ashton her score of 25 point O six ties quinn mason and now puts her in 8th place Natalia Grossman on the right for the women is one of four athletes who are alive for that fourth spot on the US overall national team this is what the rankings look like coming into the weekend Grossman was also in the speed qualifying round that finals are later on this evening but because of what she did in there unofficially she now sits in fifth place so Margot Hayes is trying to hold off Claire Brewer find Natalia Grossman and Sienna cop all who are in the semifinal round of this sport competition so the women's final spot is gonna come down to the wire here and Natalya definitely has the ability to do well here on this world as long as she continues this really nice rhythm that she already has going getting into those power moves moved quickly through that technical section she is very good when it comes to technical of climbing so I'm not surprised that she was able to read the sequence well but this is where it really starts to get difficult as long as she continues to read everything and execute she should be okay meanwhile Xander Waller is on that difficult portion for the men no hesitation there beneath the entire grossman see if she can keep it together to set up for this jump boom she definitely needs to stick that and she just can't do it with the left hand Natalia Grossman again is alive for one of those spots on the national team but that may have hurt her chances sandir Waller didn't back up into that section where we've seen only a couple men and looking like he is not too fatigued as he makes his way up this black volume into those tiny tiny holes where we've only really seen Solomon Barse get high up on this volume right now Waller will be in the top eight as only two or three men have even gotten to this point Solomon Burke was the highest and now he's off the wall if he could have gotten his fingers on to would have given him a little more purchase on the hold he kept trying to move his body a little just to get up on the volume a bit more and reach those tiny holes that would keep him on but he's just unable to do so but definitely in a great position right now have yet to see a man get to the top of this route but Xander Waller getting about where Charlie Osborne was and close to where Solomon Barth was meanwhile 24.5 6-4 Natalia Grossman will not get her into the top eight and that's big for her because again she was is one of the women looking for that fourth and final spot on the US overall national team and the other women who are in that mix two of them have still to go get on the wall one of them is now on the wall that's Claire Burr fine clear off to a nice start on this technical section unlike a lot of the climbers that have already gone I'm less worried about that powerful section for her just more worried about this opening section just making sure she reads it properly and doesn't make unnecessary difficult movements those open hand holes will definitely be something she likes and I think she'll be able to read the sequence really well and get more exert too much energy down here setting up for that first committee move no problem nice clip bur fine was another climber who was also in the speed qualifying round River the finals are later on tonight she was not able to get herself into the final she finished 17th in qualifying definitely was not her best day in speed she's was the speed champion last year as well as the sport champion so hoping to make up may get up here and get into that final set her up to you know defend her title deciding not to take too much time here [Applause] second-guessing that foot placement as she goes into this booth nicely done that little just saw it that little green hold there it's on the bottom of your screen that's just not a whole lot for her to get her foot on - they have to be so precise when making these ascents definitely taking this moment to rest a little bit like I figured she's a little more comfortable on these holds than earlier on that technical footwork intensive part gonna do this cross move here with ease used to just make sure she controls her body swing as she gets to this fold her find is there and this goes well for her she's going to get on to the u.s. national team she's got to get herself into the finals at least and then hope that she can distance between herself and Margot hayswood yet they get on the wall remember Margot Hayes is in that fourth and final spot getting up to that High Point section she needs to make the here nicely done now she really needs to make sure she goes to that orange hold on top of the green hold so that is the sequence so hopefully she read it right nice drop me reaching with her left hand and she's off but it does look like for now that she may have done enough to get herself into the top page so this looks like the most tricky part of the woman's route similar to how the men really need to make that clip on their route in order to continue on the women need to read that sequence properly because you've seen the only two women who've gotten there go to the Rockhold making it the place that they fall so if they go to the right pulled that is above it they should be able to continue on after Claire Brewer fine with a solid climb meanwhile Xander Waller on the right of your screen has moved himself in the second place right now thirty-six point zero eight right behind Salomon Barth who still has the high point and no original at thirty one point five six is in eighth place Dylan barks making his ascent for the men one of the older competitors at 24 years old he did really well in that qualifier route on this angle yesterday so I expect these opening moves to not be too taxing for him and for him to make his way through them pretty quickly as he already does have a good rhythm heading into that difficult power section little miss reading there needs to go with his left hand [Music] [Music] getting ready to get into that more difficult section the men do have a chance right here to take a second and really figure out what they want to do heading into that next section so we'll see if if you can figure out Kyra Conde is now on the wall for the women and Claire burr fine is your new leader tied with Katherine Lambeth twenty nine point five eight which bumps Quinn Mason down to eight though twenty five point zero six now the score that women need to hit in order to get into the finals and Kyra Conde has already locked up a spot on the US overall national team as she won the combined Invitational event twenty two years old at a short view in Minnesota quickly climbing through this technical session one of the fastest sport climbers you will ever see climb she does not rest as much as a lot of the competitors and just kind of charges through the routes deliberateness is important when it comes to making decisions on these routes because you don't want to waste time so a lot of times it does work - Kyra's advantage to move this quick Dillon barks is doing a nice job of navigating his way to this first real crux of his route nicely heading into that section where we've seen only a couple competitors gets you this needs to stand up a bit more to get into that IRA sticking that difficult move she's now trying to surpass clarified getting through this section about to get into that point of the route where she need to make sure she goes to the proper hold we'll see if she decides to go to that green home with a little [Applause] [Music] she made it work and she has the new high point for the women power that she was able to not go the intended way on the crime [Applause] looking good heading into that next volume box at that point where many of the mom Conde continues to set the new high point in parts [Applause] [Music] very strong folders and these roots are very powerful and that definitely work to their advantage here the Kyra Conti will be your new leader will have her exact score when we return to the sport rock climbing centers in Alexandria Virginia we have a new leader on the women's side and it is Kyra Conde who scores thirty three point five nine to put herself on top of the standings in the semifinals Claire BER fine had the top mark prior to that at twenty nine point five eight along with Katherine lamb and now Siena cop is in eighth and if Siena cop can get herself into the finals she has a really good shot of making it on to the US national team but she's got to chase down Margaux haze in order to do that and will Palmer on the wall now for the women on the men's side Solomon Garth still has the best 441 point five nine Dillon barks with the climb we just saw is now in third and Zach gala is an eight thirty one point five seven score these men need to beat to have a chance to move on to the finals top e advancing that's Jesse grouper 22 years old from Upper Montclair New Jersey even six-foot wingspan [Music] moving nicely through these opening moves on the Madden's route before he gets to the power section I'm a Palmer an eighteen year old from Reno Nevada trying to work her way into the top eight and on to the finals that's Kyra Conti just before her set the new high point getting 33 of the 49 scored handholds I've been trying to figure out how she wants to do that upper section before moving getting ready to come into the power really loving those inside flags you don't find sheets of climbers use those as much as they should very nice technical movement that helps your balance without having to switch your feet so that you're in more control [Applause] and how Palmer is it the first really tough spot on this route ready to go [Applause] [Music] stand up shoulder II part of the men's room when Palmer stays alive as she has a solid hold without left hand now matching with his right continues to make upward progress really making nice decisions and looking so in control as she continues to time on this route approaching that tricky section where Tyra Tommy actually did the sequence differently than I was told the antenna beta is but you made it worse [Music] this is about where Kyra Conde came off the wall I'm a palmar looking to maybe set the new high point here for the women but more importantly she's looking good for a spot in Tahoe at this point smart you see they feel look there to get to that clip only five women are left after her you set her feet up so she can pop [Applause] [Music] [Applause] we'll be able to get those polished climb ends but looks like she's putting herself in the top eight Jesse grouper he was able to make that clip which we've noticed is extremely crucial to success [Music] as long as he can get through these next couple moves [Applause] we should be able to get a moment to reset [Applause] [Music] [Applause] sometimes missing and then boxing the grouper looking to possibly set the new high point here but still the lies of Solomon bark five men remain after jesse is dying [Applause] those little jib hold Xander Wallace struggling as he could only get his hand on the volume Jessie's in a nice position [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] looking to possibly take the lead here this seems to be the last place we're going to take a second before you have to make there is a move coming up where we saw Solomon bar earlier on those green slopers where it's pure power no real feet and just needing to campus your way through which is when you have to climb with just your arms and after all those moves the fact that anyone's capable of doing that is just so impressive we're taking a second to shake out his left hand he keeps looking down he may be able to see the clock just checking because he did timeout yesterday [Music] [Applause] [Music] now he's starting his way back a grouper might not have enough time to make it to the top so we know about 30 seconds left now he's gonna have to do that powerful moves of a slow burn the tow hook but then eventually will needs a pet history at murder to get [Applause] about 10 seconds really nice moves on this volume there got to it [Applause] a guru he has officially timed out but he's staying on the wall but he will have the new high point and the lead which go this will not count as a top because again he is outside of the six minute window Jesse Cooper trading the crowd a great performance and he will be your new year we'll have an official score when we come back down to the final athletes here in the semifinal round of the sport competition Jesse grouper you just saw him almost get to the top outside of that six minutes but more importantly his score forty six point one zero just three handholds in one clip short of a perfect score he is your new leader and Stefan Felner at thirty three point zero six would be the last man into the finals at this point over on the women's side Kyra Conde still has the high point but Emma Palmer with that effort moves into second and knocks Siena cop out of the top eight and that is big for the woman who is about to get on the wall Margot Hayes because Santa cop is one of the women trying to chase down Margot who's in the bottom right of your screen for the fourth and final spot on the u.s. overall national team hey he's just 20 years old outer out of Boulder Colorado and the pressure is on her she looks to hang on to that final roster spot on the u.s. overall national team which is once again not the final step to getting to the 2020 Summer Games but is a very important first step these are the national team Iraqis coming into the weekend Margot he's in fourth place and remember seeing a cop is in the finals for the speed competition that will take place later this evening so she has a chance to rack up points there depending on where she finishes and then she will be awarded points based on her finish here in the sport competition but cop not moving on to the final so Hayes now with an opportunity to put some distance between herself and Siena if she can make it in to the top eight and Mario is definitely very capable of being in that final she's been in the final a lot in previous years and on the podium as well so we should see her be successful here Nathaniel Coleman for the men as only four men will remain after he is done both Nathaniel and Margot off to a nice start on the men and women's routes good flow early on like I've said multiple times it's really important at the beginning to just find that good rhythm and kind of stick with it because these groups do build in difficulty as you get up higher so you don't want to make any unnecessary difficult movements early on Margot really taking her time here to shake out before moving into this deeper more powerful section of the climb that moment where you can you took a second before his powerful section and these are your standings for the men for the United States overall national team and Nathaniel Coleman solidly in second place which is barring a total disaster here which it looks like he has already avoided he will be one of the four men moving on the United States overall national team to those World Cup events like both of the objects on wall right now look like they have a chance of being on that team : more solid position though than Margo hey she saw some work to do to solidify that spot Margo nicely making it through that cross move which has been appalled that women have gotten to but getting out of that movement has been somewhat difficult but she did it with ease coming up to that section where there are a couple different ways to get through it but necessary to be someone in control here to make your way through it really nicely done there by Margo Margo haze is halfway through her six minute window and more than halfway up the route she's trying to knock off Kyra Conde for that top spot here in the semifinals top eight moving on to the finals and that'd be huge for Hayes to get in to that final competition that will take place later on this evening just taking a second here to shake because this next section is even more powerful than the section she just went through and once she gets up on to the volumes that are later in the private [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] to keep her hips in and I feel hook it looks like she may have the new high point and get very close at least to Kyra Tandy as condi had the previous best corn out Nathaniel Sullivan comes plummeting off the wall he was at that big sticking point that we seen for the men one more look at what happened to him he did not get directly on to the hold on the volume he had to pause on the volume first which was a little more difficult to hold on there and he just missed that yellow hold he hit the part of it that was blocked so there really wasn't much to grab there Nathaniel Coleman may not be getting into the top 8 but Margaux Hayes surly will we'll have her score for you in return Margeaux hey is tying Kyra Conde for a score of 33.5 nine is she is looking really good as far as a trip to the finals his concern Muriel portsmen now the score to beat 11 Maggie hammer twenty seven point zero seven only three women left to climb and right now it's Michaela Kira's on the wall for them on the men's side Jessie Gruber still has the high point at forty six point one zero Josh Levin's mark of thirty three point five six now the one that needs to be beat as the Daniell : we just saw him crying bit just enough to get himself into the top eight Madi Hong is on the wall for the men is now four men remain in the semi-finals 27 years old one of the older competitors in the field put just five foot one [Music] that is actually 5:11 that's really should be a little typo I play my ball everybody looks Maddie has won this competition in the past took a little break from competing and actually bouldering Nationals was his first competition back for a while and was able to make the final there Kayla Kirsch the women only remain after her it's Brooke Travie - and Ashiya Sheree she would be the final two women on the wall and after Maddie Hong screw who wanna Colin Duffy and Sean Bailey who is the only man to top both routes yesterday during qualifying Makayla time really well yesterday slipping though on both routes so definitely has more to give and already looking extremely comfortable and strong through the women trouble but in control completely she makes her way through that's powerful portion also slip there cover daddy huh meanwhile is a first major crux of his route he's trying to secure that clip to his right [Music] crucial point here to Maddy he does not look fatigued at all but he does need to figure out how to clip here because we've seen many times this being the you don't have that code figured out quickly it can be trouble but no trouble there he was able to top one of the two qualifying routes yesterday and a semifinal round you're way closer to that side point still looking wait [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] here's looking to match both Margot Hayes and Kyra Conde who are tied for the high point on this route a woman has topped it making good time here I'm still looking quite good years off the wall she was close to where both haze and candy came off so her spot in the top eight looks solid at this point but there are still some climbers to go as Maddie Hong now the only climber on the wall at this point trying to work his way through this portion Janice also ended a lot of men's climbs Maddie doing a little risky move there by keeping the rope in his mouth as he makes him movements this ski-doo the factory [Music] able to get through that section hazily still looking really good on this route power moons are about to happen we saw Jesse grouper here earlier but you can see how close he is to that hold in the pink square at the top of the screen that's where he needs to get but first he's got to work his way over to the left and then back to the right [Music] into that green slipper with the tow hook on his right foot keeping him into the wall there so that he can take a little bit off of his hands getting ready for this powerful section the last [Music] solidly in the top phase will have his official score when we return as the semifinal round winds down the 2019 us a climbing sport and speed open national championships are brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 Jefferson Memorial just stone's throw away from where we are in Alexandria Virginia drew ruana on the left is on the wall for the men and Brooke rabisu on the right for the women and these are our two athletes who are very much alive not only a spot possibly in the finals of this event but also for a spot on the United States overall national team roster and grouper jesse grouper still the top mark is Matty Hong we saw him before we left for break moves into second place with a score of 44 point 1 0 the top eight men and women moving on to the finals on the women's side as Brook rabbit who is well into her ascent Kyra Conde and Margaux Hayes are still tied Michaela tears the climb that we just saw has moved into thirds of Maggie hammer clinging to eighth with a score of twenty seven point zero seven both brooke and drew are getting ready to enter into about those more powerful sections of both of their routes earlier we saw a lot of people struggling sections but within the last few climbers we've seen a bit more brooke rabbit who is already in the finals for the speed competition that goes on later tonight looking to work her way into the finals here in the sport competition if she does that she's basically guaranteed a spot on the US overall national team but that is slim so you will see if that's gonna be good enough to get her into the top eight ceramic you off the wall and now you wanna the 19 year old out of red in washington who currently is hanging on to that fourth and final spot for the men on the u.s. overall national team but because Matt Holtz did not make it into the finals of this event rowana has got a really good shot of hanging on to that for roster spot on the US overall national team again not the final step towards making the Olympics but a very important first one really nice clip there by drew wanna take a second and all to make it he is in a great position as he moves up further on this route nicely music hits there to wedge himself into the volume to get into that pocket in a more static manner versus than it needs to get off [Applause] [Music] once he gets over onto that right volume a bit more you can take a second and regroup before shuffling his way up onto the volume we mentioned that brook rabbit 2 is in the finals of the speed competition for the women drew her on a just missed getting there for the men in qualifying he was night top eight the speed also [Music] rest [Music] looks like we save enough energy to possibly top this room [Music] [Applause] Luana has looked outstanding so far than making the move with his legs can secure a fight you've only seen a couple of men get that high on the routes who do we want to look at like he's moving on to the finals would make me think he actually was fatigued though he didn't look like it Sheila Sheree she will be the final woman on the wall 17 years old and had a great qualifying round got to the top of both of the routes but just didn't do it inside the six-minute window on one of them this yesterday but when you watch her climb she's just so precise very deliberate in all her movements has amazing hip flexibility as you can see right now she is so close to the wall and in climbing the closer you can stage of the walls the better off you are body position wise to make difficult movements the minute your body starts to leave it's so much more difficult to actually make those harden needs work for you here are your top eight right now Brooke Rabbit - and Lauren Baer are tied in points but the tiebreak is how well you did in qualifying Brooke rabbit ooh did better than Lauren bear in qualifying if Cherie she gets into the top eight bear gets knocked out and rabbit two stays in I have noticed the move that Ashima just did does seem a little more difficult for those smaller climbers which she is one of them because you can't stand on the part of the volume that's a bit better because they need to reach up but she was able to get through that nicely getting into that powerful section just deciding how she wants to go for this move she did hesitate there for a second but when Ashima hesitates it seems to be a lot less hesitation [Applause] Ashima sireesha who won the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship that was held in February and just outside of Bend Oregon looking to keep that momentum here and get into the finals of the sport competition she's already done enough right here on the men's side bottom of your screen 15 year-old Colin Duffy and just barely 15 he turned 15 in December of last year five feet tall and this kid at 15 years old is still one of the most talented climbers in the field has a really bright future ahead of him as Cherie she looks like because of where she is on the laws punching her way into the top eight and on to the finals we'll have to await her official score again no woman has topped this route Theresa looking to become the first and only to do it it's actually wild no woman has even gotten to those last few volumes on the route so it'll be really cool to see if she can make it up there because that part of the route is quite powerful and really difficult climbing after having done so many moves already Collin Duffy is also trying to get himself [Applause] middle of your screen here's where things stand for the man he was a second of last to go Sean Bailey the only man left after him Luke nearing score thirty three point five seven now the eighth best one that's what Duffy's got a beat to work his way into the final round cons getting into that section where he needs to figure out exactly how to make this clip his arms are not super long we'll see if he can make the body position work for him so close trying to snag it with his fingertip he gets it and Duffy clips in successfully so he has now set up nicely to continue on through those next few moves well Sheba Sheree she looks like she has set the new high point for the women so we now get a first look at that volume that she's on right now and this is the part where she will go to that other side and she should be kind of working her way up the volume she does need to get to the other side of it throwing a toe which is very smart dunphy beam was off the wall for the man and he does not look happy on his way down the Shema Sheree she is trying to become the first woman and only woman to top this route here in the semifinal round already has set the high point she will be moving on and in the big picture looking like she's locking up one of the roster spots in the United States overall national team she's running out of time just 45 seconds left in this six minute window 30 seconds for Oshima sharee she she will have the top score now the question is can she get to the top won't be able to do it but Ashima sharee she is on to the finals as we save the best for last on the women's side and only one climber remains on the men's side Mishima sharee she with that effort really putting a stranglehold on one of those coveted United States overall national team roster spots Collin Duffy meanwhile we told you he came off a while 31.0 seven and that's not going to be good enough to get Duffy into the finals and that was really the only chance he was gonna have to make it onto that u.s. overall national team and that leaves Sean Bailey the only man to top both routes yesterday and qualifying he will be the last man on the wall he is your defending sport champion and he also won the 2019 USA climbing bouldering Open national championship in February in Oregon Sean just taking a second there to look at the route again he's been in isolation for a bit now since the preview so it's always good to run it through your mind right before you get on Sean Bailey looking to stay perfect here in the sport competition just easy get thirty three point five seven to get himself in Jesse Grouper the top mark at forty six point one zero as he came three handholds and one clip short of topping this route nice rhythm right now through these opening moves here for Sean and if you watch the bouldering open national championship back in February Sean Bailey flashed all of the problems in the finals meaning that it just took him one trying to get to the top he was perfect in that final round so far perfect here for two rounds of qualifying getting to the top of both those routes that is why he is the defending champion exactly and being able to flash Boulder problems is always great but in sport climbing you only have that one try so it's even more important here to be as perfect as possible and Sean Bailey has been so far in this competition getting ready to approach to that powerful section doesn't seem to have lost too much energy on those opening moves really conserving his energy well taking a moment to glance out that next section before he makes those moves updates you want to see ma cherie she score did not top the route but did set the high point forty six point six zero Baili moving smoothly now as he approaches that first really big crux of the route easily into that shoulder move didn't really give him too much trouble sequencing on this next section is really important when it comes to not just your body movements but also figuring out where you want to clip that hold has to stand up into that volume and stand on really bad feet but easily does it I've seen a lot of climbers get creative and reaching that clip and Bailey just able [Music] gotta get into this pocket here nicely into it working his feet over now this next move when he hits the volume there is a hold on that volume and he needs to get to the hold he's just on the volume now but he gets the hold he'll be a more control there nicely done Bailey is really close if not already past the point that he needs to reach sorting to get himself into the top eight but he certainly has a bigger goal here and that is to become the only man to top this route and then he would stay perfect so far in the competition he's got a six minute window needs to get his foot up here to make that clip try and get a heel hook if you can two and a half minutes remaining for Sean Bailey and he is well on his way towards that final hold in the pink tape box at the top of your screen nice use of the heel hook to make that clip like we've seen most of the competitors who've gotten their due now into these slippers he should try and click here really good decision Bailey will be moving on to the finals but can he top this route the answer is no the route stays undefeated and Shawn Bailey had the chance to stay champion unofficially he has gotten himself into the finals we'll come back with the official status for both the men and the women we return to the sport rock climbing centers in Alexandria Virginia the semifinal round is done at the 2019 USA climbing sport open national championship and on the women's side we had an appeal from Lauren Baer she was tied for eighth with Brooke Rabbit ooh and the tiebreak would go to rabbit - because rabbit ooh did better in qualifying but bear has appealed and it looks like they are awarding her points for we're controlling a hand hold Megan take us through exactly what's happening here so Lauren and Brooke both paused here but it looks like Lauren did actually control this whole house she moved on it she hit it first and then moved on it whereas Brooke just so Lauren would get the control there's where Brooke only got usable surface and that was the appeal and it was granted so instead of fractional points bear gets a full point for that as a result she is an eighth place and rabbit two will not make it to the finals of the sport competition she is in the finals of the speed competition but here are your final top eight with Ashima sharee she on her final climb and she was the last woman on the wall forty-six point six zero Margot Hayes that's important for her as she looks to hang on to that fourth and final spot on the US overall national team she was third and then Claire Burr find one of the women she's trying to hold off is in the final so Margot hey still has some work to do in order to get herself onto that US overall national team on the men's side things are more clear-cut Jessie Grouper at the high point fall by Maddy Hong and then Sean Bailey who was the last man on the wall with 43 points 6 gets himself into the top 8 and on to the finals of its charlie Osborne's mark of 35.0 8 that earns him a spot in the finals for Meagan Martin I'm Sean woodland salon from Virginia we'll be back tonight at 5:00 p.m. Eastern for the finals of the sport and speed competition on ESPN 3 all games airing on the ESPN networks are streaming live and archived on the ESPN app this has been a presentation of ESPN [Music]

Channel: USA Climbing

Views: 10,119

Rating: 4.7777777 out of 5

Keywords: USA Climbing, Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Speed Climbing

Id: k7gtuMveQU0

Length: 118min 22sec (7102 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 27 2019