Vintage Cabover car hauler chassis swap! 1953 Ford COE swapped onto a GM P30 frame on a budget!

hey there boys and girls welcome back it's only been a few hours later since i entered the last episode of more ski repair but i don't know when this sequence of events is going to occur but decided to make an appearance so did the drug smuggler we got a stack of parts sitting over here a little fiberglass sweet grill bar two aluminum front end got the glass out got it pretty much gutted got our hydro boost brakes laying down there ac is off radiators off training cooler lines are off gas pedals out we even saved the fuse panel we're leaving the old toshiba tape deck in there because who wants a tape deck eight tracks are where it's at look at this look at this we're gonna have save these seats though which way come on son of a biscuit these seats swivel well that one did zeke got to do it hey there was a seat belt i went off that jump without a seat belt and there it was the whole time oh man safety third anyway swivel buckets we're not saving them we're gonna roll this pos outside pull the cab off oh hey look at that zeke's here so raoul is the master of the swivels i just fought that thing for like solid 30 seconds couldn't get it so we're gonna get the wire stretcher t180 out and see how things go but yeah we're here we're gonna do a another quick walk around this thing look at this they must had an imbalance in the drive shaft oh there it is right there so they uh zip tied a couple of weights on there to counterbalance it i don't know how they figured out where those go but here's the kicker i don't think that was the issue she got a little hairy about 80.85 so we're gonna need a hanger bearing we're to slide some pvc something in there later fixed all right wire stretcher t180 pull that up let's do this [Music] look at that the old wire stretcher t1a just pulled it right off pretty seamless now we'll do a little cleaning up new hanger bearing like i talked about get rid of that plumbing because we're not going to need that where we're going get rid of the wire harness throw it off to the side maybe clean it up reuse it not really sure but the price was right like i said i'm an idiot the old 350 she's cooked so we're gonna go ahead and let that one go i got another backup she got real warm so we're gonna pull that out of there see if we can't find somebody that wants to give us a couple bucks for it and then slide a new one in maybe even put a new front seal in that th-400 th475 because it's got the bolt on rear yoke oh yeah she's a 710 virgin block 67 000 miles we're gonna get all the dollars out of this thing on the old facebook marketplace stay tuned uh zeke and i stayed late the other night got her pretty much stripped down got the cab off radiator cooling package all that good stuff got the old engine out sold gone down the road got a new seal to put in the input shaft torque converter whatever you want to call it on the old th-400 one thing i got to do is this has got a six-hole pattern torque converter i'm used to having three hole patterns so i don't know if i'm only going to be able to use three or if i'm gonna be able to use all six holes that are in the back of this flex plate or if i'm gonna have to ring them all out or if i have to chase down the guy that i sold the other engine to and get that back stay tuned to find out we only did snap off one exhaust stud so that's pretty good used a bunch of heat there we just set the power steering pump hydro boost all that good stuff off the side training cooler lines we took the whole core support out with the radiator and everything in it set it off to the side and then i did the same thing with the water pump and ac compressor alternator all that just kind of took it off in one big chunk anyway i got the old good wrench 350 that i've had laying around for a while and this was a pretty good running machine we're going to stick that in there first i'm going to see if that flex plate is going to work for us we should get a frost plug and get rid of that block heater because a little cab over ain't going to run in the winter much engine mounts are already on it pulleys are on it i think i might swap the motorhome fuel pump because this one's probably dried out that one looked pretty new and it's got that stupid ralph nader emissions third line garbage on it we don't we don't want that it's gonna get plugged anyway i'm gonna cut these old body support brackets off she'll be ready to rock clean up a little bit of the wire harness oh yeah we saved that because it's got your dimmer switch your fuses cruise control all that stuff if i use it i use it if i don't oh well got a lot of good pieces got the throttle cable the wiper motor gas pedal kick down switch fuel pump shifter got the brake pedal assembly tail light harness and then the ever elusive factory tilt column for a to 72 chevy pickup with floor shift yeah that's a good piece right there and aftermarket cruise control so yeah gonna put that engine in there after i get the seal in and after i check to make sure that that flex plate holds up to the torque converter hopefully that doesn't suck i really wish i would have taken that other one anyway ready to get to work let's do this what do you think duff so we got our new seal in the input shaft of the transmission that was kind of a pain getting the old one out steel puller didn't want to just choo check right out of there so we got to get creative and smack her around with the hammer and the chisel and then pull her out with a vice grip but anyway new ones in i had a new flex plate on the shelf so i grabbed that and you can see there's two bolt patterns those three work those three are too narrow which is conveniently the bolt pattern on the back of that engine so we're gonna have to swap flex plates and then i'm just not gonna use those other three bolts because the old 350 is not gonna have enough power to pull those out lesson learned should have saved that flex plate off the old engine oh well you learned from your mistakes i should be one smart sob so pull that flex plate off put that one on there put one out that one on the shelf good news is small block chevy ring gears flex plates whatever they're like 20 bucks so i always keep one on hand tech tip of the day that torque converter input shaft seal is the same for a turbo 350 turbo 400 and 700 r4 probably a 204 r as well so nice work there chevy not so nice to work on the different bolt patterns old duff dog got the good wrench 350 slammed in there bell housing bolts are in torque converter bolts are in swap the fuel pump with new gasket new gasket on the quadrupuke engine mount bolts are in i'm just going to swap thermostat housing i need to find the t fitting for the vacuum molds go to the transmission maybe put a new chuck of rubber on that as well oh yeah put a new rubber hose on a fuel line too he's going to chooch maybe we'll put some new spark plugs in so that they're not champions and delco's mismatchedness quick update got the starter on and the starter cable got new plugs yeah auto 8 26 is only the best from rock auto new vacuum advance hose got that t-fitting put in there for our vacuum for the modulator on the turbo 400 got a few plugs on the quadrupuke thermostat housing in there and make sure when you install the thermostat that it's facing the right way or things get hot there was zero thermostat in here when we started got rid of a couple of plugs that had vacuum ports in them for some temperature ralph nader garbage got rid of that got our fuel line on there somebody had cut the old one and put rubber on there and that looks like crap dug through the stash found a factory fuel line to put on there way better um like i said got that two-hole fuel pump on there new gasket oh yeah brand new ground strap make sure you got your engine grounded that always makes things way gooder otherwise you burn out hei modules like the elf does or it's because he buys napa stuff whatever we're gonna even hook up the toilet chain here hooked up to the cruise control canister she's gonna be super good setter 85 and let her eat also on the ralph nader-esque crappiness i think we're gonna cut all this garbage off weld those holes shut get rid of that linkage there and wire that open or something and then we're gonna put a couple exhaust studs on it because they're pretty chewy maybe even a new gasket in there so that's the next project that'll be fun i love exhaust so the two studs that were snapping off i got out of there and i thought let's replace the third one and of course that one snapped off flush so drilling and tapping favorite hobby of mine and we did some uh real crappy welding on those plug them up sorry greta and ralph nader she's she's really gonna rip now that she's deleted just keep that on the dl stick some new studs in there and some big brass nuts so that they come off we got to take them apart of course i'm missing that gasket so we'll have to get one of them we're back on now we're going to move over to the left hand side manifold these studs are real good we're going to leave them do the ralph nader exhaust delete over here well those holes up kind of like so what a pain to get this back on how to use the ol manifold spreader put that in there push them apart pry bar real good she's on guaranteed not to crack for another 60 miles we've given the old drug mule quick tune-up the distributor was kind of hard to slide in there look at that bead of silicone that is the fattest bead ever so much silly conness wow did her up right and now we're swapping distributors back to the original one that thing is clean 67 000 miles because the one that was in my engine one of the vacuum advance or the mechanical advanced springs has sprung it all right pretty much got the engine wrapped up got a new air filter in there new cap rotor plugs wires got them all zip tied into place need to make a bracket for the dipstick tube it was mounted on the ac compressor which we're not gonna put back on because she's locked up he's sweet to have ac but it's not in the budget oh we gotta hook up the exhaust yet because we're waiting for that three-hole gasket there let's adjust the timing once we get it running again got our belts on power steering alternator i'll do a little bit of wiring yet obviously but i think we're gonna wait till cab set in place yeah everything's pretty much wrapped up here stuck the old radiator hoses on it just for now in case we got it fired up till the new ones show up hopefully we can round up a gasket finish up the exhaust pretty much ready to set the cab on oh yeah follower didn't have front brakes not nifty looks like she was slicing right off so we'll have to get one of those coming as well honda off oh yeah good wrenches have two spots for dipsticks so we got an extra long breather plugged off over here oh we gotta get this filter that goes in there i don't know what it's called emission stuff thanks nader [Music] so [Music] so [Music] look at that got a mess going on in here but the elf and i got that cab set on there she's a bit taut but let's start somewhere so the distributor cap is rubbing on a crossmember back there we do have a little bit of room up here for the fan yet but as you can tell the wheelbase is way off we got to come about i don't know eight ten inches ahead yet but we cannot get that cross member right there and she is pretty close to the distributor so i gotta trim that out there's a dog house up here so i try to take that dog house out with these perimeter hardwares that way it'll be easier to cut i could see what i'm doing and whatnot we had her sitting on there you can see the rust first we set her down on the old quadrijet lid that's probably why that's loose hopefully that didn't get destroyed anyhow it's on there and there's these cab mounts here are the existing ones you can't really see it through the inner fender and those are the factory ones for the truck cab and they're gonna be pretty close to lining up at least it might give me a pattern something to use then yeah you could see it was titan getting on there because that fan is right up against this shroud we actually had to sneak her over the front of the fan clutch and then drop the back now and get her up in there inner fender wise we're gonna have to do a little bit of trimming it's we gotta center it up this side's touching this side isn't quite touching but so we're gonna have plenty of room for our hydro boost stuff to snake up there and the unfortunate news is here's our steering right here coming off the frame and here's our steering for the cab already and we've got to come ahead so we're going to have to whack this off and put some knuckles on there to get her routed down there so the original steering box on this thing must have been just about on the bumper i don't remember it's been a while since i took it off got our cooler lines up here so once it's ahead we should have plenty of room for a radiator i think the original one bolts right in here so that'll fit in there real nice we're pretty much tight up against the battery box right now but that'll move ahead it's showing you that one cab mount these are the original cab mounts so i might try to use those as a bracket of some sort to mount it off that cause those got some rubber isolators built into them you can see the cabs she's tight over there a pretty good gap over here so she's shifted over a little bit but before i can do much jockeying around i gotta trim the old cab over out we're trying to figure out what's going on back here we think that somebody broke the back window at some time sheeted over it decided we wanted a window again so instead of getting the right thing they just kind of made their own sliding window set up pretty nifty no montana dakota utility company truck's gonna be back on the road again frame horns are gonna get modified because they obviously do not line up with the holes for the original bumper but i think when we get it ahead to the distance we got to get ahead i think that front splash pan is going to drop over the front of that so should be good probably not going to have to do much clearance in there i definitely got to find some 19 fives to make it look betterish well maybe not definitely but i got a feeler out see we can come up with this is just a little tiny 16-5 and that is looks no good maybe if i put a regular 16 up front that won't be so bad i do have a couple of spares brand new homemade white letters right duff we despise white letters don't we we might stick those on there just kind of get a little bit better feel for how it's going to look the good news is this is basically the same front suspension as zach's got in the old double d so cut a couple coils out get her sitting right where it needs to be once we get the cab all mounted up so that's the next step pull that dog hose out of there get that out of the way and then do some trimming get this slid to where it needs to be and start making some cab mounts yeah easy peasy right duffers getting ready to pull the doghouse out of the cab over here looks like somebody was into the old booger sugar i don't even like cocaine i just like the smell of it oh yeah that's that's pure maybe we'll take a column out we're at her too i got lots of energy now look at that neat little flashlight holder down at the bottom of the column that's looks like ray charles welded those handles with his feet that's pretty pretty nifty there i better save that format i think that'll clean up oh weird must have had brake issues week like i haven't found 47 cans of that in these old trucks well i'm going to stash that away save it for a good time let's do this got the dog house removed comes out in two pieces oh got the floor mat out too it's not as good as i thought it was so that's the bottom one there's about an eighth of the screws in there so that's been out before but that top section she was glued in there pretty good i don't think anybody's had her out be real easy to adjust the timing when you're sitting in the driver's seat we get her moved ahead about 10-ish more inches the floors are they're a little scaly but no flintstone mobile i guess we're gonna start doing some cutting crossmember out of there maybe take some measurements first figure out how far we should cut back well duff dog and i we stayed a little late last night cab stuck on the p-30 chassis he's still tired from it give you a quick run down to what i did and what i maybe would do different next time hopefully help somebody out make it a little bit easier i guess the first thing i'll talk about is kind of how i shuffled it around so on the front i had a ratchet strap around the core support then i had the cherry picker holding the front end up then i had a floor jack on each side underneath the running boards there's a big support that runs down to the running board pretty beefy there's the other jack stand and he's a block of one on that side because it's a short jack stand jacked it up and had somebody kind of guide the jack while i pulled on the cherry picker it actually went quite swimmingly so i had to pull the inner fenders out not so much on this passenger side so there's just a bunch of perimeter bolts up here and then some of the fender mounting bolts are part of it too but mainly on this side because the hydro boost slash power steering hose that's leaking all over the floor was going to run right through it because it doesn't have a 90 degree in it so i'll either have to trim that quite a bit or just take a hole saw and drill a hole in it run that hydro boost line through it when i get to that point but for now i'm just going to leave them off the other thing that i did was here's the factory cab mounts and the cab mounts off the p-30 chassis were right here this side actually almost lined up i mean it was within an inch but it was like super high this was about 10 inches too high this side they kind of offset staggering you can see i still left that frame mount there so i knocked the the cab mount off that was sitting right here um it should be staggered back a little bit to line up with the cab mount on the cab yeah i just cut the heads off the rivets took the old air hammer and whammy them right off there and i might be able to reuse those so this was stuck to the side of the frame and then this bracket like i showed you on the driver's side it was riveted at the top of the frame and then it kind of sits up there just like that i didn't get that rivet cut on the driver's side yet because there's a hydro boost hose in the way quit your grumbling but yeah other than that i might have to knock these brackets off in the front uh i might just leave them because they're really not in the way it doesn't seem like so i have to make a bracket to multi-core support trying to figure out something for cab mounts up front there i was hoping i could reuse those but looking at it that cab mounts pretty much at the bottom of the frame so i'm going to reuse those i have to raise those up quite a bit do a bunch of modification on the body so not really sure what i want to do there but we do have a ton of clearance for a radiator i should probably be able to use that stock gm radiator slider in there steering alignments you can see here's our steering shaft and i think i do have to go back a little bit with the body and there's the steering sector so yeah not exactly ideal we're gonna need some knucklage you'd see some of the floor i had to trim out in the cab but here's kind of where i wrapped up last night i had to nichey out the bottom of the cab there to fit over the frame rails to get it down i trimmed it off a little bit excessive on the top but there should be about a half inch on each side looks like i got to go that way a little bit and then how i thought i could just trim off for the distributor well it turns out that the whole valve cover got into the floor pan and whatnot so maybe got a little bit wild with trimming so i got to make floor pans anyway it doesn't matter if we're making six square feet of floor pan or six inches i do have to trim here by the gas pedal a little bit you can see it's hitting on the pcv just a touch pinching our new spark plug wires no big deal and then yeah this dog house is gonna be way bigger than it was before so there is a cross member that was i think i showed you guys earlier right here that was kind of what was sitting against the back of the distributor so i had to trim that out there i don't know if i'd call it a cross member back here kind of just this yeah there's that so i guess i'd call that a cross member so probably have to either remake that one there is actually another cross member here or kind of remake this back one and then use that as the rear cab mounts as well i hated to cut that all up but i needed to i needed to get her down there and this is without cutting any coils or anything so we could get even lower yet but i think she sits about right ah duff dog as you can see i don't really like that wheel opening i think i want to go back a couple of inches it's i marked the fender for where we thought was the center of the radius and the wheel well opening but as you can see it's kind of a pretty tight radius at the front more of a gradual larger radius at the back so i don't know the center is the center but what pleases the eye may not be the center so probably throw the jacks underneath the running boards again put the old cherry picker on the corner support i think i'm going to move her back just a bit get it to where i think i'm happy we'll have to start figuring out some body mounts should be fun wish we could turn down the wind for the background noise but we can't so i went to slide it back and the cab won't go back this cab mount here or at least the support sitting the upper control arm so i think i'm just gonna cut the whole thing off and move it up because as you can see right now where the cab mount is at pretty close to where i wanted to sit sitting on the core support up there it's pretty much at the bottom of the frame rail and i need a little bit more structure than that to hold that cab up unfortunately it's kind of going to get in the way of the steering box but for now i think we're going to go and cut that off flush but i should be able to reuse this structure weld it back together move everything up hopefully to hold the body up then we'll have to do the same thing on the other side as well because that's it like i said it's hitting that control arm right up against it and that's what's keeping us from going back so i'm probably going to get the old zip wheel and whacker off there and yeah i'm good at that and move everything back in upseas see how this goes also got the steering column out because that's at the wrong angle anyway and that way i can get this cover off down here the access hole where the steering drops through and that's a little more light through and i can see kind of what's going on i still should probably do a little bit of trim in there because that might get into our cruise control linkage and we gotta have that i took the voltage regulator and some other wiring and got her out here look at that neat plug in the firewall yep that's cork we're gonna leave it way better than grandma's dish towel that alvin put in there this was holding up some airlines oh yeah he had her figured out so i got the cab mounts trimmed off here that didn't go so terrible ended up just bolting these frame mounts right back onto the frame here put a couple bolts in there and tighten them up but i think what we're going to do is make a little bracket to go and tie this into that so got some flat plate around we'll do a little trimming and welding and pulling random clips off that being said always save your old sandwich cases makes good templates easy to cut nice flat material tech tip of the day so i'm going to do some figure in there do a little cutting and trim and i'll give you an update in a little bit new plan i didn't like how high it's at in the front so i brought her down just a bit but lowering it i a little nichey in the frame there so that that radiator support core support whatever you want to call it drops down in there and then i'll just make my mount off the bottom of the lower aim rail just throw some rectangular tubing or square tubing across and then we'll tie course pour it onto that i think that looks way more gooder she kind of was nose high before and i didn't want to raise the back up to level it all out because you got to get some low that's what it's all about so now that being said this body mount hangs lower than the frame mount so i think i think i'm just going to leave her along more material then i'm going to cut this lip or flange off here cut her up a ways and then i'm going to take a flat plate back here with my sandwich pattern and uh make something out of that and then i'll probably put a couple holes in it to bolt it up to this and then we'll weld her all in there and then we'll probably make another flange like that that follows the new contour i don't know if we're going to reuse this at all or not we'll see we'll cut this flange off see where it gets but yeah i definitely think it looks a lot better after trimming out those frame horns it's not going to affect anything structurally it's going to sit way more gooder and that way we don't have to have a suspension drop hopefully which we can always do later if we want to gets it even lowers all right a little bit more cutting well the wind still hasn't quit but take a look at that freaking masterpiece brought to you by ham special light the sandwich of champions right duff so yeah look at this we got some magnets holding that up there like the old floyd cotter pin on the television show back in the day so i guess i just kind of set that cardboard up here on the outside of this lip pressed against it with my greasy thumb and then use that as a template or a pattern to trim that around at the same thing here with this ridge and then what i ended up doing is this is actually the cab mount from this side see it's got that big wing on the back i took the one from the other side cut that wing off the old bandy saw and wait for it look at how neat this is drops in like that not enough hands and then i left this cardboard along so i can lay a nice big fat bee down the outside their boxer in and i could either weld the nut in there or i think i'm going to put an access hole on the back side to hold the nut in there i guess i could weld the bolt in there too but gotta leave access to that or fix it so that you can weld on her so she'll be all nice and boxed in and strong there and then i'll probably do something on the front side here as well and then probably run a strap up here maybe one across there and then one across the bottom as well but yeah we got a pretty good template there should be pretty strong welding around the edge there we could bolt it to this flat pattern and then we'll weld around that lip too should be pretty rigid so let's go transfer that steel there we go got her traced down to some flat steel i don't know what that is eighth inch something like that i don't know what this got screwed up there i think it's actually because where i notched it for that upright in there didn't quite line up so it's not quite as tight as i'd like it right there but what we got going on it'll probably be fine looking at that now i might be able to just slide it down it might be okay so i took a scribe marked across the firewall and the support bracket for where i gotta grind and clean it up so i can get a good weld i'm gonna pop that off there now clean that up and then i'll clean up this body mount as well gotta remember to put a little hole in there for accessing the hardware don't forget that and we should be ready to start doing some welding i think what i'm gonna do is get it all in place clamp like that and then tack weld this body mount to that plate so i can burn that in good on the bench and maybe even i got to do these straps yet gussets get those welded on there as well and then the last time i put it up there then i'll finish welding it to the cab we kind of got steering we got a router up to there we got room now before the steering box was like right down here where the connection came off the splines so obviously that's like an inch drop you can buy like a 400 drop box that i still don't think was gonna fix it and it was going to take a ton of work anyway so i got a box off of a van which i think the angle is the same but it raises it up like five and a half ish inches i thought it'd be easy just bolt it on moves it up five and a half inches nope gm hosed it up so i had to drill a hole there and a hole down there still got the third hole to do here but we're making progress i'll show you just how i did it i put the old box on and just had it bolted up kind of loosely and then i clamped the pitman arm to the drag link tight then i made this never mind my booger ugly welds i made this little bracket here to clamp the drag link so i knew where it had to be with the wheels straight and then i set this box up here straight and set it in there so that's where everything had to be i should have clearance for the frame rail just got one more hole to drill uh the frame kind of has a little dip by this bolt so once i get this hole drilled then i'm going to cut the frame out put a flat plate in there and then fill it in and then re-drill that hole but it'll work for now this is a blind hole these are through holes so they're easy to mark this one's going to be a little bit more difficult might have to make a template you can see i marked that out there how that goes so i can maybe trim that out of cardboard cut a hole in it and put it up there and then drill that hole and i think i'm gonna the bolts were a lot longer because it was a van so it had like a box frame so i'm gonna put sleeves on there and that way i'll get a little bit of uh clamp load on those as well or bolt stretch engineering terms yeah i think we're gonna knock that off and then i like i said i'll make a template of this get that hole drilled and then fit it up again take it back off cut the frame section out right there for that hole and re-drill it kind of show you what i did once i get it off there and get everything all done up but anything i want to show is how i did it here because once you take this box loose this drag link kind of flops up and down and the reason i put this bracket here is it clamps it into place where it's got to be that way you can't really screw up the geometry because this pitman arm and that idler arm have to be on the same plane otherwise you're going to have some bindage things aren't going to work real well what a pain in the butt been dreading doing this so is duffy we need to get this thing out of the garage and i want to make it steer look at you just getting right up in the camera with all your stinkiness i'll be glad when the steering's done and then we can go to brakes so i got the steering box off figured i would compare the factory motor home box to like a one ton chevy van box i think all chevy vans are the same the bolt pattern here is different and then you can see the disc between the pitman arm and the input shaft is quite a bit different so the angle is the same it just moves it up four and a half inches near so i can measure going from center line to the bottom of the pitman arm so you gain about four and a half inches but it's a whole lot of messing around [Music] so this blind hole here is the one that i needed to drill out on the frame so what i did was before i took this off i marked around that with a marker as best i could and then i took some sandwich box here and then i just pressed on it with my greasy fingers and when you take it off it leaves you a nice imprint i'm gonna trim that out with my scissors and i took my leather hole punch cut out the center and then we magnetized it right on to the frame rail got her center punched now we just got to drill it out you can see the other holes that i had this one was really close to another hole so i had to weld it up i'm gonna do a little bit more welding up yet right there and then you can see this is the other hole that's kind of on a there's a dip right here for the original steering box so what i'm going to do is once i get these holes all drilled i want to cut part of the frame out there and then put a new plate in there so it's all clamping on there flat that way everything isn't going to want to move because you don't want to be clamped on an angle like that because your hardware is going to get loose or bend or just bad things are going to happen well i'm talking about hardware so here's the hardware differences between the old steering box the one with this frame because it's just a regular stamped steel heavy gauge c channel frame that's a five ace i don't know inch and a quarter long bolt and this is what the van had because those are a i don't know stamp steel unibody style frame so the frame is box and it's that thick so i put these bushings on here and that'll give us some bolt stretch i could probably put shorter bolts in there too but i'm thinking i might use that bushing and then weld around that bushing and then on these top two bolts i should be able to weld that bushing to the top lip on the frame rail there and there obviously inside of the frame and that'll really beef it up a bunch too so should be way good and also these are a 7 16 bolt these are 9 16 bolt way bigger more gooder more clamp load ooh and they're great eight even we get a frame patched in there and i only cut out a section right here so this is actually doubled up should be pretty strong i beveled this plate quarter inch same thing that says the frame rail maybe even a little bit heavier and then i beveled the frame as well so i could burn it in pretty good right there and there and you can see what i was dealing with that was what was back there before so you know you can't clamp against that because that bolt's going to be pulling kitty wampus got that burned in good got her hole drilled there's our other one i kind of filled that in a little bit ground her down smooth a little bit so that it could sit up flush there yeah should work out real good these two holes i'm not really concerned about at all because they're right here by this radius so that frame's not going to want to crack out there it should be pretty stout but i think what i'm going to do is take those bushings that i've got in there on the bolt and then weld that to that top lip on each side so that'll really beefer up real stout because you don't want your steering coming off so i think i can put that box on for hopefully the last time i don't even want to know how many times i've had it on and off and then we can cut my congloma crap off there but yeah i was pretty proud of myself for that pat on the back here we go so i took the brake mount pedal assembly steering mount all kind of one assembly out of the motor home trimmed it off because the geometry was all wrong how it tied into the dash and the steering column i took the steering column mount part and i shortened up the factory ford one and i grafted it behind it i don't really like the way it turned out i'll show you more on that later maybe but it'll work for now and it'd probably work forever i just got this arch a little bit off because gm did dumb things and i did dumb things too and we're all done together so that's the steering column mount just shortened up the original ford one grafted the gm one into it tighter in there pretty good tig welded it even practice that up like i said i'm not super happy with it you can see there's that bend there it'll be totally fine but yeah what am i kidding i'm never going to make it the way that i'd like to i trimmed all this off we're going to have to add that on there because that's got the rubber bumper in there for the pedal stop and then it's also got the brake light switch integrated in there as well so i cut that off there kind of with flush where the arm sits and then i dug in my scrap metal bin made this bracket to tie it into the column and then i boxed her all in there the old miller 140 out burned her in good it sits a little bit far to the right but there just isn't a lot of room in here between the air cleaner where your flasks are on the gas pedal so it's pretty tight to the column but we can always modify it so i cut a chunk of firewall out of the motorhome and i set that master cylinder and boost your assembly up as high as i could go because it's got rubber hoses see the hoses right there pretty much as high as it could go because i wanted it tucked up it's accessible from under the hood and then it also gives me plenty of room in here from the floor and then that gave me a template for where i had to mark all my holes that middle hole is a bit big in my opinion but that's how gm had it again should have evaluated that first oh well and i got the column it sneaks out right there so that's nice and high out of the way of your feet anyway i'm gonna have to do something with the brake pedal but i want to integrate the gm brake pedal so i can use all the cable stuff for the quadrijet that was existing and then i'll try to graft an older looking pedal and then i might do like a speedway style pedal pad it's still hot dang on the end of that because i it's pretty tight for clearance and then i just don't like the look of that brake pedal just kidding it'll probably never get done the right way here's our boosters hanging i don't know if i showed you guys where the booster and master's hanging but you can see there's a little bit of play yet in the hoses so i got a little bit of leeway we got the steering sector all mounted up i don't have those bungs welded in there yet but she's all hooked up i wanted to get the steering column mount all figured out before i cut my d shaft to length yeah i think it's going to work real good we might have to put a little clearancing on that body mount right there it's going to be good took a little bit of time to do it all but it's pretty much all factory either ford truck or gm parts braced everything up really good i'm gonna brace up that sector good brace up the column good brace up the pedal bracketry all that stuff real good so that it doesn't fall apart on me because you don't want to lose steering and you don't want to lose brakes bad things happen if you lose one you're all right you're losing both and you uh better grab your cheeks and pucker up and the reason that i like to tie in under the dash because that's the way gm did it ford did it everybody did it a lot of guys will just mount it to the firewall and put a big plate in there and well that firewall moves in and out you know unless you get tied in up here into the sides and it's just easier to brace it from the i mean that firewall is pretty sturdy be tied to the dash she's gonna be real stout and we can always add a plate on the firewall later if we needed to and then it keeps all my same geometry from my pedal so i think it's like six to one if you got power brakes or seven ish to one if you got manual brakes it's all off the shelf part so if something breaks or if i want to change something i just go find more gm or ford parts make it work it's easier than making stuff from scratch or getting it from a company that's maybe not going to be in business after this whole pandemic and election and whatnot all right let's get back at it duffy wanted to show you his new haircut this sweet uh halloween bandana that he's got yeah so here's what i was talking about on the steering column mount that i don't really like i accidentally cut this notch up here thinking that the column sits flush but it doesn't so either gonna weld that back in or just leave it and run the wires through it or make a new one and the other thing is i need to support the column at the bottom the good news is this plate here from the original ford it's got a good template and i think i can actually use it it'll probably be easier to just fix these holes than it will be to make a whole new one because it's got a little rolled lip in here and that way i can put some type of seal around it but the bottom of the gm column doesn't reach all the way down to it you can see that there doesn't quite reach down there so i got this chunk of tubing that just barely slides over the column and by just barely i mean well you guys saw me slide it up of course i can't slide it back down and this diameter hole is a little bit bigger than the column so actually that worked out pretty good as far as sealing that up so i should be able to weld all that then the stock gm bracket would clamp this at the bottom of the floor the ford column was fixed here and then fixed at the sector because it's one solid shaft this is what sealed the floor up on the gm so i'm going to take that tubing butt it up against this and cut it out and so that will seal the column up to the tube and then this little tang here will give us a spot to fixture it or clamp it in place so i'll get that all pretty much sealed up everything should be about wrapped up inside like i said i want to fix that up a little bit and i need to fill those holes and weld all that in i figured i'd show you where i was at and then out here we got our steering shaft in i did have to notch this cab support just a little bit probably going to cut it just a little bit more as well now that tube slid down quite a ways and i just slid her in there to show you guys so that'll get slid up about like so and then get trimmed off the other thing is once i tighten up the master cylinder it kind of sits kitty wampus because there's this rib on the firewall so then i'm gonna have to make a shim on this side just so that it sits straight so that that rod is isn't binding on us and that actually might move the pedal away from the column a little bit we'll find out once we get it shimmed out it should be easy enough to do we're getting close aren't we duff dog all right this thing's getting real close to steering and stopping as well so i got that pipe trimmed off and then i trimmed this piece out of the gm floor pan i probably could have just welded a tab onto that tubing but this is a hair smaller diameter so it's a nice tight fit i figured that'll keep hot air out in general and i welded the factory ford plate around that tube filled the clutch and brake pedal holes actually didn't turn out too bad i was going to weld this seam but i think just putting the screws in there should be fine i really want to get crazy i can put some type of weather stripping behind there to really seal her up tight but i'm guessing the sliding rear wooden homemade window it's not going to be any worse than this [Music] i think we can slide this over the column one last time get it all fitted up and then put our steering shaft in would you look at this got our floor pan in i need a little bit bigger screws those are a little bit small for the holes you don't want to pull it quite tight but yeah it's a little bit tighter on the brake pedal i think it'll be fine and like i said i kind of want to shim that master cylinder hydro boost over so that might give us a little bit more room there up front here is what it looks like i got all my set screws in there when i put these set screws in i usually like to mark them with a center punch and then run a drill bit in there just to give a little spot a little hole for the set screw to bite into i did find out after i got it together that i hadn't quite cut enough clearance in this body mount bracket and i didn't want to take it out again so i just used the torch trimmed her up but she's good now all kinds of room no binding i mean those that knuckle there's hardly at an angle at all and this one's a little bit more of an angle but not too bad i don't know why these cheap universal joints that are made in taiwanese etho chai spindia gotta come with this super long set screw so i might cut that off and put a chamfer on it shorten it up just because i think it looks obnoxious but other than that yeah she's pretty much done i know a lot of guys will put like a slider in here so that if you're ever in a front end collision it doesn't push the steering wheel into your chest but the angle that this thing's at it's gonna just go down that way and not push up plus that's a lot of money and i guess if that's what kills me so be it but works pretty good [Music] that's what's nice about having a tilt is it's adjustable it's not centered in the speedometer which is kind of annoying but that's the way it was from the factory and then you kind of got to do that so that you got room for your footsies down there so i think that's what we got to do now is shim that hydro boost over and then start working on gas pedal linkage hopefully that doesn't take near as long as this this only took me like i don't know five months and then i kind of want to clean this up a bit it's nice having that hole run these wires through but i think i'm gonna run them along the bottom side here like the gm column was from the factory you can see they got this nice sleeve there maybe i can find another column and get some more of that sleeve material probably not minor details yeah works good got enough room over here for your hands so you're not smacking into the door room for your window crank alvin is coming along we'll be ripping in no time wait i think i could get a aftermarket setup like that or i could make that work with 12 volt it's a small block all we need is a fuel gauge we got two options we can put dual tanks in it all right that about wraps up the steering and brakes yeah well just swimming i don't get it jimmy fell in the well the coronavirus is driving you insane yeah me too okay starting at the back since i poked a hole in that original fuel tank i bought a new one from rock auto and apparently this is like a 31 gallon tank and the one i had in there was a 40. so i had to knock the old rivets out move that ahead i bought new fuel tank straps and i did have to modify those a little bit shorten them up the fuel filler neck runs right in the frame rail so that's disappointing so for right now i'm just gonna hook it up off my boat tank that i start every other piece of garbage with because i don't want to fill this with fuel if i got to move this neck which i know i got to move it i just don't know where i want to move it and if i'm going to move that fuel filler neck i think i'm going to make it bigger because that seems awful dinky so i got those capped off for now so we can run it outside and just get it out of the way put new brake hoses all the way around because it was cut on that side so i feel like that caliper is going to hang up on us there's a reason it was cut it didn't just blow out somebody cut it ooh i found a sweet deal on some 17-inch dodge wheels only got one simulator but i got four really good match tires and then one not so match tire for a hundred bucks they said a little bit higher than the 16s that we had on it before put a new hanger bearing in so that ain't all wallered out i cleaned out the fuel filter tapped it out we didn't put a new one in it's good enough couple new battery cables i didn't end up having to trim the floor anymore gas pedal in that's just a square body pickup screw to the firewall and then a hole drilled for the cable i did have to heat and bend that a little bit so that it would get full throw on the gas pedal but kind of a slow return good enough i got the motorhome shifter hooked up over there just kind of laying loose it's probably gonna once i get a dog house made it'll get mounted to that i'm guessing got a starter button the og starter button wired up got the original ignition switch wired up so what i did for that is i just took the stock wiring off the motorhome and i ran the power wires from the alternator and the starter fished them up ran them to the key and i got a jumper wire going to the starter button that's only to ignition power and then i got ignition power going downward distributor checked last night turns over it's got spark so we just need to hook a boat tank up hopefully it'll start check some fluids not much else going on in the cab same guy that had the 17 inch dodge wheels had these 19 and a half inch railroad wheels so they're a 19 and a half inch wheel but they fit the one ton eight lug pattern it's pretty hard to find wheel and actually look pretty good in there they fill the wheel well a little bit better than the 16 inch that we had on there got a radiator out of a 72 pontiac in there with air conditioning so it's like a four core instead of the two core that was in it it's full of coolant got new radiator hoses on there got the exhaust hooked up put a new doughnut in need to find one more simulator or ditch the simulators all together i'm not really sure what to think of these 19 fives so i got a hubcap off the 50 ford check that video out and i was gonna see how that kind of looked down there i'm not super impressed with that either but actually fits it fairly well for the diameter to kind of cover it up i really like this lip right here the old 16's had like a smooth transition from that flat face to that so we'll see let me know what you guys think hubcap no hubcap let me just put some sweet huge bullet lug nuts on there which i'm usually not a fan of but they actually look pretty decent on the dualies i'm gonna go grab the boat tank out of whatever it is outside that it's in actually i got two of them you'll have to watch other videos for what they're in and uh slam that on there and hopefully we can fire it up be able to check some fluids all right let's do this trusty marine tank is hooked up we're gonna tickle the old hot sauce slingshot engaged oh boy that switch is not happy uh too much amperage well that shouldn't happen looks like we're gonna have to do some wiring duff [Applause] son of a biscuit duffy and i went stole a different battery still looking for a battery sponsor if anybody wants to jump in there i'd like to say we're sponsored by interstate but that one took crap you got to get the ones with these dual terminals the old dt-78 those working real good for dumb gm stuff all right let's hope the timing's close enough i think we had that distributor out i don't remember give her a little hot sauce i went with my got no friend switch because i think we let the smoke out of the last one here we go oh let's keep oh there we go that'll help [Music] she wants it first time that that engine has run in like i don't know it's been at least eight years sounds good timings pretty close idle should maybe be bumped up dolph did you check the oil world's longest dipstick it's got oil in it needs an oil change we got a fuel leak yeah we better snug that up all right runs since we had the training lines off and the radiator with the transmission cooler swapped out probably should dump a quart of fluid in it but maybe it was over full before so let's whammy through the gears a few times and get her up to operating ish temp and check it because you can't check cold even though we know it's low oh that's a nice step that's too many steps not good just kidding we've got no brakes and no power steering so let's top that off first otherwise i'm going to put in gear and you guys might get to watch me drive through my garage door that would be entertaining i'm gonna have myself a celebratory sandwich she runs pretty good she was a lot low on atf starting to get the wine out of the power steering and the hydro boost and get somebody to help me bleed the brakes or deal around with those myself then we'll be ready for a test drive gotta get something figured out with the idle it's not one to idle down but sounds pretty good got some timing to play with got our starter button to diddle with but we're getting close i need a sandwich i'm gonna get some fresh air like duff did so i couldn't figure out why all this fake dog food was laying on the floor i think we got a mouse problem let's see if we can't get some more out of there well i think i cleared it all out but look at that shot it into duff's dog food all over the floor here just just everywhere all the way across the shop you're not doing a very good job of keeping the mice away we've had this conversation before do i have to replace you with a cat yeah the look of shame right there so i gravity bled the brakes i don't know if i even call it bleeding but that's the best thing let's see what happens what are you huffing about so oh [Music] transmission works brakes work ready to drive it out here let it rot out back stops it steers it starts shifts we have a gas pedal she's a driver but i think that'll about do it for the first installation on this 53 ford cab over if you would go check out my other videos especially the motor home video that video is really being a flop i don't know why you guys aren't watching it or liking it but pretty good video and i'll show you where i got this frame from let me know what you guys think i should do for a bed i'm kind of thinking like a car hauler with a little beaver tail at the back i don't like the straight up ramp like the other truck i got plus i don't need two of the same thing but for right now i think i'm just going to put a flat bed of sorts on it just so i can utilize it let me know what you think of the wheels i think those ones are for sure staying i'm not really sold on the 195s i put up caps i knocked the hub caps let me know what you guys think um it's probably not getting a big block or a twin turbo ls or a 12 valve cummins it's probably just going to stay with the 350 for now yeah we got to do a dog house and we got to do a whole bunch of wiring we got to do a bed and a fuel filler neck pretty much got to do everything but we drive out of the shop so appreciate it thank you for watching check out my other videos make sure you click like on this video because i got a lot of work in this thing so keep me moving on it remember doesn't matter i get it done as long as you're having fun it's pretty fun that this thing drives to get a little more enough huh well you're not excited we'll go for a ride in [Music] you

Channel: Mortske Repair

Views: 102,013

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Id: wvYeAiiuNV0

Length: 65min 4sec (3904 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 28 2020