Toyota 2JZ Engine Build - Full Start to Finish

hey I'm Stephan Papadakis we're here at Papadakis racing today we're gonna assemble the legendary hood a 2jz engine it's an inline six this is for a project that we're doing here at the shop if you want to see the disassembly of this engine or some of the main bearing clearances checks that we did I'll link to the video below in the description so let's get started and get this thing together so here's the block so it's been bored out to eighty six point two five millimeters put two five millimetres larger than factory it's been decked which means they resurfaced the top of it and it's been hot tanks so they put in this tank and it cleans all of the dirt and everything off of the outside of it but it also takes the original paint off of it so you can see it's a little bit rusty we're gonna paint it a little bit later in the video so here we are we're measuring the Pistons so now what I'm doing is I'm I'm double-checking the machine shop in order to do that I've got to measure each one of the Pistons make sure they're all what they're supposed to be then measure all of the bores and make sure that we have the proper piston of wall clearance and that's the clearance in between the piston and the cylinder wall also gonna check all of the rod bearing and main bearing clearances time to install the Pistons onto the rods so use this assembly Lube and get everything all lubricated these are what they call free-floating pins these little clips hold them in you install it on the piston and the rod and the pin is actually able to rotate both on the piston and the rod what's cool about these jé Pistons is they're both coated on the top and the sides the coating on the top helps with temperature and the one on the side on the skirts helps with cylinder wear so you have to make sure that the piston is installed on the rod properly so what I'm doing is I'm looking at where the valve reliefs are on the top of the piston the intake valve release are a little bit larger than exhaust ones now that everything is blueprinted and we know that the block is good ready to be assembled I'm gonna go and paint it so there's tape off all the parts that I don't want painted and get out there with some engine enamel we're gonna stick with normal black this time now it's time to make sure all the gaps in the Rings are correct what happens is with a slight bore diameter change it can change the gap in the ring and we want a very specific gap so what I'll do is put the ring into the cylinder square it up in the cylinder by just putting a piston in it and then use a feeler gauge to see if the gap is the correct width so these are a little bit narrow so I'm gonna put them in the ring grinder and actually grind at the end of the ring so when it grinds the end of the wing it's taking some of the material off and when you do that you just have to make sure that you don't have any burrs or anything on the edges that could potentially scrape the cylinder wall or not allowed the ring to seat properly once the Rings are all gapped it's time to install them onto the Pistons the first one is the oil spring so that is like a spring that pushes out the oil rings the next is the second ring this one is usually a cast material that's a little bit more brittle so I'll install that a little bit differently by expanding it instead of twisting it the cast rings don't like to be twisted and could actually crack the top ring can be twisted on there's also little letters on these specific rings that show which is up these have a little n on them so I'll go ahead and twist that on and then do it to the rest of the other six distance I also like to number all of my pistons and which direction they're gonna be installed into the block I really like to double and triple check everything in an engine now the Pistons of rods are ready to go in so I'm gonna flip the engine over and put the crankshaft in we've already checked all of the main bearing clearances and make sure everything's super clean and we'll go ahead and install all the bearings next before I put the crankshaft in we're gonna put the oil squirters in pretty straightforward they just bolt right in these are really good because they help to cool the piston they also lubricate the piston pin and the cylinder walls these are called the thrust bearings basically when you push in your clutch to disengage it it pushes up on this bearing right here the thrust bearings I'm actually gonna lube both sides of it that way it's really tacky and sticks into the block and doesn't want to fall out when I go to put the crankshaft in so very carefully go ahead and set the crankshaft in this is just a factory 2jz crankshaft they're forged they're really good they're quite strong in very common people will make a thousand horsepower when these stock cranks go ahead and put assembly Lube on all over the main cap bearings and these are all numbered one through seven and they also have an arrow for which was forward on the engine forward on the engine is where the pulley is and all the drive belts so all of the arrows point towards the crankshaft snout and where all the pulleys would go so go ahead and SAP all those in with the gun and then I'm gonna torque them up to the 33 foot-pounds that the factory recommends and then they also say do an additional 90 degrees so what I'll do is draw a line at 12 o'clock and I'll turn everything 90 degrees basically to three o'clock and that'll get us right into spec and then once everything's bolted in I like to make sure that everything turns freely and there's no issues there so now it's time to install the Pistons the cylinder walls are all nice and clean at first and then we're gonna put the piston ring loop on him I'm also gonna put some of this piston ring lube on the skirts of the Pistons and the Rings next I'm going to align all of the piston rings because the gaps need to go in specific angles and again this is gonna vary depending on the engine manufacturer and even the engine builder on how they like to do it I always like to hold the piston with the exhaust valves pointing towards me and that way it can be consistent on each one of the Pistons when I align the Rings so this is the piston installation tool and I'm also gonna lubricate that as well because the Rings have to slide down it I'll double check the ring lineman again and now we're ready to put it in the crankshaft is at bottom dead center which means the crankshaft pin or journal is all the way at the bottom that gives you the most room to make sure you don't push the rod into the main journal so these rods are from BC and it's their standard h-beam rod which is gonna work great for our application and they had them in stock which is great because this is such a short time between the time that we got the engine to the build we really wanted to use parts that were in stock and not have to custom order so we'll go ahead and install the rest of the Pistons and we'll be done with this part of it so once I saw the piston they should be pretty consistent as far as the tension it takes to push them down if for some reason they're a little bit different that could be a sign of an issue and then also make sure that you look at the cylinder walls and make sure there's no scoring or anything that happened on the installation because that'll show that maybe you had an issue with your ring gap or something like that so now turn the crankshaft and make sure everything spins smoothly next is time for the cylinder head the cylinder head was done by our buddy tom at Port flow he took the dirty head hot tanked it cleaned it way up he did what they call like a pocket port or like a bowl port and it's the area where the valve seat meets the casting in the head and a lot of time the factories don't do a very good job of matching it and having a good flow in that section and doing a full port in Polish I don't believe it's necessary on these heads for the power levels that we're gonna be making this is what they call a cnc valve cutting machine you can actually program and how you want the valve seat cut and then it goes in there and cuts it all perfect tom then resurfaced the cylinder head and got it all ready for installation here's a quick picture of you can see the pocket port and you can see where the valve seat meets the inside casting is nice and smooth and that's where he ported it here's all of our super tech stuff so this is the valve train that we're gonna install into the cylinder head dual valve springs titanium retainers CNC keepers in canal exhaust valves and stainless steel intakes Tom will go ahead and put some grease on the valves when he installs them will then install the spring base the locator the locator keeps the spring centered within the spring locator key the Spring Center the dual valve spring is then installed and down in there you can even see the valve seal so the valve stem seal is what stops the oil in the cylinder head from going down the shaft of the valve the stem of the valve and into the cylinders or into the port this is what they call a valve spring compressor so the valve spring compressor reaches around it pushes on the bottom of the valve and the top of the valve spring retainer once it compresses it you can go ahead and put the keepers on once the keepers are both installed you can remove the spring compressor and now now the valve spring and everything is all installed now we're gonna install the dowels into the block this is what aligns the cylinder head on to the block and keeps the gasket and everything in line I don't like to hammer directly onto the dowel cuz it can bend it so I made this little tool out of just just a bolt in a nut that stays on the dowel and then I can hammer the bolt that way it doesn't mushroom the dowel pin at all so here's the head gasket it's actually a factory Toyota MLS casket it's called a multi-layer steel and these are really good gaskets from the factory so we're gonna go ahead and just get a brand new one and use it in this build next we gonna put the cylinder head on and one of the things that's funky about assembling these two J engines is you actually can't put these washers on the head with the head studs installed so you have to put the washers in first then you put the head studs on then you can put the nuts and everything in so I've pre-lubricated the washers and the head studs and then once we put the nuts on we're ready to tighten and get our big torque wrench because we have to torque this up to 85 foot pounds and I'll do in a couple of stages here so I'll start by doing 30 foot-pounds then go up to 60 then 85 foot-pounds these are BC to 64 degree cams and it's relatively mild cam and for this drift car this is probably the best one for it little pro tip here if you grease the inside of your cam seals front and remain seals they tend to seal up and last a little bit longer in my experience I'll then put all the cam caps on and install the camp seals there's a little bit of silicone you see there that goes under that cam cap I'll just zap these bolts in a little bit you get to be super careful you install the cam caps because if you don't have the cams and the right orientation and you start tightening the cam caps in the wrong order you can actually break a cam so have to be really careful and follow the instructions on the order to put the cam caps in then we'll go ahead and torque all of the cam caps now I've got a cams installed nice gonna put the oil pump on there's just some silicone and a couple of o-rings I've already changed the front main seal this is our new rear main seal there's some silicone on that as well op the reach in which kind of a pain and get these six bolts next we're gonna put on the upper oil pan so this one's really cool because it ties in the whole block and it's actually a bit of a stiffener for it as well there's no gaskets down here just silicone so put the silicone in zap in all the bolts and then torque it down to Toyota's recommendation so what they call an oil baffle and it helps to separate the spinning crankshaft from the oil that's in the pan this is the oil strainer or the oil pickup this is where the oil gets picked up from inside the oil pan and sucked through and into the oil pump so now you can see the stuff that goes on inside of your oil pan so if you ever have an oil pan that you hit something like something on the road and it dent it up it can hit the bottom of this oil strainer and that's how you can have a problem with your engine after because strainer can't actually pick up the oil from the pan anymore this is the oil level sensor it's got a little float there and it just throws a warning light on if the oil level gets too low this is where I tend to be a lot more generous with the silicone is on the the steel pans I'm gonna make sure that these suckers don't leak so I'll put a little bit extra silicone and then we'll put all the bolts in and then torque it and you'll see I'm using the torque wrench a lot here and the reason is it's so easy to over tighten something even after years of experience I believe that using the torque wrench doesn't take that much more time and you can get everything torqued perfect and once it's worked perfect then you could be confident that it's not gonna fall out we'll go ahead and put the exhaust cam gear on torque that on and this is the intake cam gear this is where the variable cam timing works and inside of that gear there's some mechanics that depending on the amount of oil pressure from the solenoid it'll actually adjust the cam timing on the intake we really do want this they can help as much as like 60 or 80 foot-pounds of torque at low rpm and for a drifting car where you can be at low rpm a lot the vvt-i engines are quite good for that application if you're doing drag racing or something where you're really spending all your time over five or six thousand rpm where the vvt-i is pretty much back to zero it's not gonna be much of a benefit if any a little bit of blue loctite will install the tensioner pulley again torquing it on and now we're gonna install the timing belt and the timing belt has a very specific alignment so on the lower gear there's an alignment mark on the gear and then also on each one of the cam gears so we'll line each one of those and then we can put the timing belt on last we're gonna put the timing tensioner in next we install the timing belt tensioner what it does is actually puts tension on the timing belt and before I pull the pin and actually put tension on the belt I'm gonna turn it to revolutions and make sure that everything is still lined up properly and once I know it's all lined up perfect I'll pull the pin and allow the tensioner to tension the belt I'll then turn it again and triple check that the belt is aligned properly once I know it's all perfect we're gonna move on to the next step so this is the oiling for the variable cam this pulls oil from the block down there and it goes up into that cam cap and from the cam cap it goes with the variable cam solenoid the way the variable cam works is the computer sends out power to this little solenoid which then duty cycles a certain amount of oil into that cam gear and depending on that duty cycle it can actually change the location of that cam gear relative to the cam and by doing so it can change the location of the cam relative to the crankshaft essentially changing the cam timing next we'll put on the valve covers I've had these powder coated wrinkle read and for years I thought it was originated by Honda on the type our engines and then recently I've realized that that's absolutely not the case Ferraris been doing wrinkle read valve covers since the 50s and it turns out that Testarossa actually means redhead and Ferrari has wrinkled red valve covers for 50 60 years now and everybody's been I think biting them so I've added a little bit of silicone on the corners of the cam caps and this is an area where the oil can often leak so a little bit of silicone there can make sure that you don't have a leak in that section you can also see where we added the aan fittings to the valve covers for the crankcase breathing system we're actually going to utilize both of the knock sensors on the engine and this is another area yet to watch out for so I've masked off that area when I painted the block because I want to make sure that the knock sensor is directly on the actual metal block and making sure that we torque it because depending on the torque the knock sensor will actually output a different strength signal next we've got the cam sync sensor so this sensor tells the computer where that intake cam is relation to the crankshaft so now we're putting the timing covers on it's a bit hacked up to fit the different water port that we've got on here this car instead of having normal mechanical driven water pump it's got an electric water pump and it's got - 20 fittings for both over the lines here's the crank damper so I'll go ahead and put some anti-seize on the inside of the crank pulley and then install it on to the crank chef snout and it didn't quite just push on that easy and look you can use the pulley bolt to push on your crank pulley but only if it's really easy to go on like this is super easy and didn't have much resistance at all but if you do have some resistance you'll want to use a specific installation tool because if you put too much force on this pulley bolt you can mess up the threads inside the crank and you're gonna have a real bad day if you mess up the threads the torque on this pulley ball is actually 239 foot-pounds it's really crazy high it pretty much maxes out the torque wrench in order to get that much torque I've got to lock the crank from turning so what I've done is I've put a couple of flywheel bolts into the back of the crank shaft and wedged a pry bar in there so the crank shaft can't turn so thanks for watching I had a lot of fun building the 2jz if you want to see more of this content please consider subscribing thank you

Channel: PapadakisRacing

Views: 6,964,194

Rating: 4.9265771 out of 5

Keywords: 2jz, build, stephan, papadakis, racing, 2jz-gte, 2jzgte, engine, building, blueprint, blue print, bearings, bearing, clearance, dial, check, motor, crankshaft, measure, cylinder, assemble, 1jz, supra, sc300, lexus, toyota, jz80, a90

Id: ASoh2uxYEsQ

Length: 14min 25sec (865 seconds)

Published: Sun Mar 03 2019