The MOST Effective Way to Soundproof any Room

oh hey guys Jeff here today's video I'm going to show you how to go from an open exposed wall cavity to a completely finished soundproof room okay now listen this is going to be a great assembly for anybody making a music room or a theater room or an office right or just trying to insulate a bedroom to have a little bit of peace and quiet so at the end of this video I'm gonna do a sound test as well to see if I know what the heck I'm talking about cheers here's the system you peel off plastic from one side so that you can keep clean and wrap this bad boy up we're going to stretch it out as we go make sure you get all around the back of it there we go seal up your wire protrusions there we go try to keep it nice and tight to the box so you're not going to affect your drywall installation there we are okay yeah one pad per plug all right don't try to be cheap this doesn't stretch like buddy it's a little more dense than that so you're only going to get one pad on each one of these electrical boxes and if you have a big double box you're going to need two pads for one of those as you can see this is R20 fiberglass insulation it is the next gen fiberglass though okay so I recommend wearing some kind of a mask when you're working with it but the reality is you can see a couple fibers flying around for the most part this stuff is non-itch okay it is a lot nicer to work with than the old Generation stuff you're going to want to put an R20 or at least an R14 bat in the wall it's okay if it gets compressed we're looking for Mass not for thermal brake so if you put an R20 installation here and it compresses because R20 is for a 2x6 ball you put it under compression that's okay because you have the same mass in the wall we're going to just fill up all of our cavities and that's going to be step one so Step One is this in the wall and the ceiling though we're going to go double layer we want as much mass as possible when we're thinking about an acoustical environment and that's why we're going to go two layers in the ceiling one in the walls and then we're also going to be adding the sauna fan there's two other issues I would just point out real quick one is the insulation now I know that there's lots of people on the market and they will talk about using mineral wool for doing soundproofing and yes it works but I'm going to say that this is 95 as effective than half the price call me cheap but I'm going to be using this for the rest of my life right this is also next gen so it's easy to work with doesn't make your arms itchy or anything so it's pretty cool now you put in two layers okay you want to stagger your joints because soundproofing is all about managing the movement of air and if you can eliminate air movement and then you add Mass on top of that you get a really effective sound barrier so what we're going to do here is we're going to finish strapping the ceiling and then we're going to be installing our sauna pan green board and then the secret to success here because my client wants pot lights and when you're sound proofing this room you have to create a layer of sound proofing and then you have to build inside that so what we're going to do is after we get the green board up we're going to actually strap the seedling again with two by threes so create an inch and a half space so we can drill out the location for the pot lights and after the green board is up the electrician's going to come back and run the wire for the locations and then we'll come back in here we'll install the drywall drill the holes and all that wiring will be on this side of the soundproofing barrier and so our drywall is going to be fire rated and that will have lots of mass in it and that'll be part of the solution but the green board isn't going to have any holes or any air leaks and that is going to make the biggest difference in that transfer noise from this room upstairs [Music] foreign [Music] now the strapping is up quick tip when we put our board up we're going to want to know where the strapping is over here I didn't use a laser level to install this it's just to get the material up in the air so I'm going to make a mark where the marker middle of all these strappings it doesn't matter if you have plastic or paper faced insulation just Mark your wall even the top of your frame sometimes will work easily identify where you're going to start and then over here at the edge of the board you can tell right makes life simple we're going to use the drywall lift to throw this up in place traditionally when I'm working in these environments I don't trust the walls are square I'm curious though because the nature of this panel I would love it if this was Square make my life so much easier right so we're going to give it a try but generally what I do is I'll measure Off the Wall 45 46 inches and then I'll install the second piece and then I'll measure back and then cut it and install the first piece usually the only way to get that angle perfect we'll see if we can get lucky now this is my sauna pan insulation panel currently being sold at Home Depot in Canada with very limited availability in the United States you want to get this product where you live you got to scream and yell a little bit and let them know that you're really interested in it I'm going to go this way keep these feet against the outside wall and there we go we'll just drive this over we'll check the framing well actually that's not bad there I might get lucky I'm going to back it up a little bit I got to get past my 2x4 on the wall and the screw all right wow I got lucky all right now remember the reason I went quick and simple and dirty here is because I'm going to add another layer of strapping underneath all this after the wiring is run and I'm going to go with a full sheet of drywall from end to end so I'm not concerned about situations like this I'm not going to take the time to put more strapping up here I'm going to screw at that location right and that board will be held in place and then we'll install the next piece and so on and so on we'll stagger our joints won't be a problem at all we're using a 1 and 5 8 drywall screw to go through the one inch board and a three-quarter strap if I install the screw head flush I guarantee I can't puncture any other wiring or Plumbing or anything else that's in the ceiling that's being hidden by the insulation and that is plenty of grab [Music] just want to get it up there snug as a bug in a rug I'm just going to throw about 12 screws for each panel the less Fasteners the better at this stage because every Fastener is made of metal and will transmit sound so less is more I'm going to stick about 12 and I'm going to throw up a few more panels and show you how to stagger these joints we'll just jump into a time lapse real quick [Music] I'm going to save you all the Gory details of watch me install every single piece but I'll show you this just make sure you measure off where your heat ducts are okay and then you can draw with a circle with the marker working with this stuff marker is your best friend you can draw a circle where your heat run is grab a handsaw this is a drywall saw okay and it is going to run you slower than drywall don't be frustrated okay it is a very densely packed fiber but it will get the job done or you can use a cutout tool again this kind of dust is brutal you probably want to have a mask on foreign that's not the tool that's the density of the material you'll get it done there we go now once I get all the seedling in we'll just come back into camera we'll talk about getting the walls installed and how we're going to seal the gaps between panels because you'll notice right over here there's a 1 8 inch Gap I didn't get the panel perfectly squared off but I'll show you the secret for closing up those gaps the materials you want to use and all the rest of the board we want to finish the ceiling and then get the walls on all right so that we're creating an overlap other than that it's pretty straightforward my job today is to get the rest of the screen board on so that the electrician can come and do his job later all right so next day we had the electrician come in and he ran the loops for our lights but I just want to walk through the assembly here just to make sure that we're all clear we'll start up here in between the joist cavity two layers of our 20 fiberglass pink next-gen insulation and then we use a 1 by 3 strapping nailed to the joists and then the green board is screwed to the strapping and slightly I'm talking six State screws per sheet four by eight and then we strapped over top of the strapping with a three inch construction screw through a 2X three then we run the wiring this wiring is actually stapled to the side so it's up to code this will get tucked in like this when we put the drywall on and then when it's time we'll install drywall to this and then we can drill out the hole connect the wire to the Box tuck it up the hole into this little cavity space here that gives us the green board 100 continuity on the ceiling it'll also give us the ability to bring the sound board right up to the side and encapsulate the room all the walls the ceiling is going to be green board to green board and then we can use an acoustic sealant or a spray foam for any small gaps or cracks to get rid of any air leaked possibilities and this is how you get pot lights in the ceiling and keep the sound down if we put drywall right directly over top of the green board I'd have to drill that out too for every potlite and those six holes would eliminate all of the work that we put into this room I know it sounds like a lot of work a lot of material but you're either going to get it right or you're not you want a really quiet soundproof room you got to go with that kind of Integrity okay I know in school they don't do any favors they tell you 50 to pass 80 makes you a genius but in the construction situation like this you have to be somewhere between 99 and 100 of what you do it's all about doing it right it's Integrity there's no such thing as well I did soundproof 85 no that'll be noisy as hell no we got a couple of other issues here I wanted to show them the electrician brand wire and then he closed up again that was nice looks like a crime scene I want to bring your attention up here and I'm going to open up this cavity here a little bit but I'm going to cut on the stud so I can tape it up really easily afterwards all right look at this Gap the insulation fell when you're working if you see something like that stop what you're doing because that's the outside that's going to be cold air in the winter time and that's going to have condensation that's going to make the insulation wet which is going to destroy the R value year after year after year it gets worse worse worse then the studs start to rot then the mold starts to show up this is what we're dealing with in construction we can't have that that's my exterior wall now you'll see that around here they've got this purple foam when they built this house before they did the installation and the rim joists they did a thin layer of spray foam around the entire Rim dress just to create that perfect air seal on that part of the house but this should be lifted back up into position because I know it fits I just know that whatever happened it's slumped and just because I'm going to make sure I can't afford to have an issue here double check Yep this one's slumped too there we go now we got good contact you've got 11 electrician because they do a great job of meeting electrical code but when they're fussing around with your Vapor Barrier and your insulation make sure you follow up that everything is still closed up properly that one little dark space behind the plastic is going to end up destroying all the work in this room [Music] for the record when you're opening up a wall if you cut in the middle of the joist you have something behind it to put pressure on to get a good seal and if you cut straight you can repair something rather simple without having to use a whole roll of tape now when it comes to doing Lighting in a theater room you've really got two options you're going to see real common in a lot of theaters they're going to have like wall lights like sconce because you can have a box you can putty pad it and it generally it's a pretty decent way to seal it up in a ceiling however if you want pot lights there's two ways to do it you can create a box that your pot light can be cut into out of the green board really five-sided box or you can install all your green board nice and tight and then you can run another layer strapping that's a two by three because what this does is it gives you something you can staple you can Staple in the side run your wiring and then what you've got is a place where your wiring can go while you're drywalling and then you can drill your hole and then you can wire your device box you can put up through the hole slide it to the side and install your pot light and you're not breaking through your sound barrier having a continuous barrier of sauna pan is the secret to success here okay so remember if air moves sound Travels by sealing all of this up really good and then dropping the ceiling another inch and a half I know everybody's like oh but the space nonsense if you're going to go for soundproofing the most important thing is the sound everything else gets sacrificed in every decision you make so complete layer of sound and pan and then we're going to seal it all up so what I'm going to do I'm going to throw a couple panels on the wall I'm going to show you how to seal it up properly that way you're ready to roll thing about this stuff is it is super lightweight kinda it weighs about the same amount as a sheet of drywall we're going to install this with one and five-eighths drywall screws that is going to give us all of the support we need we don't want to use too many screws okay we're literally just talking about the perimeter something to keep it in place when the drywall gets installed you can use a two and a half inch drywall screw and that'll finish connecting everything the less pieces of metal you have in the wall the better off you are we just want to have enough to hold this in place and to hold the board in place so that I can rotor zip out the window that's right you can use a drywall cutout tool on sauna pan to cut everything out of the way these fibers are pretty hard on the mouth wear a mask when you cut it and this is where we're going to run into problems right because whenever you build with wood it's never as tight as seal as you'd like it to be now there are two ways to seal up gaps and air movement one of them is just this the black goop this is called the acousta seal and you will know this if you're in the business it's a product we use with Vapor Barrier it's how we seal the plastic to wood for plastic to metal framing even and it works like a charm in this scenario as well so you want to treat this like a caulking you want to all of your joints it's that simple that gets rid of any of the air that passes between the boards now this stuff doesn't dry so you put a nice thick bead here okay and you don't wipe it in you don't worry about it you don't tool it you don't finger it okay just get it in get it on and get it done all right and this is a little bit messy but that's fine we're not going to get our knickers in a knot over that okay bam okay that's way number one second option is if you have holes you can use expansion foam now don't expect everybody to have a fancy gun so I'm not going to show you that but I've got a gap right here and this board is because of the roof and compression I'm not a big fan so what I am going to do instead of using caulking in the middle of the room and having a black goo everywhere I'm just going to use the foam it's under compression and it's slow I mean it's more pressure you use on the tip the more foam comes out right so you should be able to keep this inverted oh brand new cans sensitive here we go nice gentle bead the trick with this is having the can as upright as possible so that you're not just pushing all the gas out of the can here we go the combination of these two products will work to seal up every one of your gaps I know it's a labor of love right but when it comes right down to it when you're soundproofing you can do 95 soundproofing and there's no different than 50 okay so if you're gonna do it at all use every ounce of Integrity that you got in your body and seal every Gap and crack all right once you've got all that done you're ready to hang drywall all right so before I tackle the heat I just wanted to do with this mess yep that's not useful at all I'm all for having a little extra wire it's nice if you're wiring to be able to work down here instead of over your heart because that makes life a lot easier having them the same length it's going to help with that I don't have 10 pounds of wire hanging down out of that ceiling I can manage installing drywall in that scenario there we go okay now moving on here's my duck this hole is cut pretty much exactly to what I need but that's not really what I want to go for I want to have a bigger hole so I can actually get a drill in there and add a screw litter and I've got to get my tools in here to crimp this so I'm going to cut the hole much bigger than I need and then we will kind of come back with spray foam to finish that off there we go okay I'm on wood here yes I am God bless it all right here we go okay now this duct it's just not moving anywhere oh here we go we can go to here good then I can screw it and then stick it back up here's a 30 tool everybody should own this is crimpers it's uh three blades on Two And basically what we do here I'll start on this side as you take a six inch pipe and you make it just a little bit smaller by crimping it so it's the same amount of material but it's zigzagging back and forth it's like driving through the country on a highway versus a road that goes around the river or or a lake right it takes forever zigzagging around this shortens the distance of the diameter of this pipe so that I can slide an existing pipe over top I could have crimped the metal that I'm going to use as my extension and stuck it in but then I'd be causing resistance right at the last point and we don't want that so by crimping the pipe in the ceiling I'm not interrupting with the airflow or the efficiency of the system boom nice now I got a little six inch extension because what I'm doing is I'm calculating my extension from the green plus my framing plus 5 8 drywall plus the fact that this will squeeze up okay bam there we go now that is a nice piece of ductwork and because I'm hanging nice and low here I'm going to give either one of the right screws or change my bit I've got two of the boogers here all right that's right there there we go one on the other side here good now see how much height we get there we go so now when I go and install my drywall it'll be sitting on the duct okay and it'll have resistance which is perfect so that when I come back with my RotoZip tool I just go ahead and find the edge skip it and zip it that's problem solved there we also have a problem in the corner dealing with the plumbing so let's go tackle that mist now you'll notice that the way they got this hooked up here they're not using a frost free line so they're using a quarter turn shutoff valve and then a bleeder valve now when you turn the water off and you open this up it lets whatever water is in that line drain back into the room which could be a little messy so have yourself a pail but it's one way to guarantee that there's no water in your hose bib the other way is you turn it off go outside get a vacuum and like literally vacuum the line right out okay now what we're going to do is I'm going to put a first piece of green board here 26 and three quarters is my measurement I've already checked the entire bulkhead is all perfectly straight so we're just going to cut a few of those but for now 26 and three quarters okay let me show you how to cut sauna pan green board with your olfa knife you want to go to the second line on your blade that's the perfect depth lock it in use your drywall Square get a score all right move that out of the way watch the magic happen now you start the top buried right in there use a little bit of force done that's about as pretty as it cuts okay don't get worked up over the details if you want it prettier on the back side you got to cut it a little bit more and then you're gonna end up scoring the Sheep behind you we only got a bit of a scratch the secret here is we're going to put this up and I want to have a hole in this board right where I want to be reaching up so let's go 11 inches in the middle 13. yeah it's right in the middle 11 inches this way that's my middle okay now to make this effective you have to remember the end from the beginning we're going to be putting our drywall over top of this I can put a nine inch door on it which is an eight by eight hole so there's four there's eight there's four there's eight so there's my hole that's for the drywall now if I make an eight inch hole here then I just need to get myself like a 12 inch piece of green board that I can rest on top after I install this part of the soft that makes any sense if not just keep watching we'll show you what we do here we go same thing foreign make a trap door done all right in case you're wondering a 26 inch span is perfectly acceptable when you're working with five inch drywall the reinforcing of that drive of that fiber makes this really doable all right and this is why God invented showers all right and make sure we're flush here okay okay now I got my trapdoor and my sauna pan I'm going to use a two and a half inch screw right here in the middle and so when you reach up acts as a little little little door handle as long as that screws in the middle you know you're going to have a good good seal okay board in place we've got an ability to access that we know when we put our drywall over we're just going to cut an 8x8 hole here that's problem solved we've got the ductwork solved we got that solved I think now it's time to throw up our first sheet of drywall but first before the drywall I've got to put a couple more pieces of the green board on the soffit one step at a time you have to get ahead of yourself we want to have a nice tight seal here so we'll get another piece underneath a couple pieces on the side and we'll jump into some drywall you'll be able to see the whole assembly come together really well then now for everybody who has an issue with a window like this this is actually it looks like is it one and a quarter inch yeah one and a quarter inch Framing and then that board comes right to here finger okay I'll give you an idea what's going on we can see our concrete foundation one of the best things you can do is take your green board right up against that that way you actually have a thermal Bridge here as well up against your concrete so you don't have your drywall in contact with your masonry if I just go back here with drywall or all wood I don't have a thermal brake anymore because wood is a lousy insulator when it's that thin so I'm going to use the green board and then I'm going to go 5 8 over top it's going to come about the same thickness and then I'm just going to add this one little piece of trim that caps that joint of the drywall in the wood together and paint it all in it's going to be absolutely seamless wow thank God I got somebody on the inside helping me out Matt just reminding me that I didn't spray foam this Gap yet and that's really key right no air leaks in the ceiling all right [Applause] uh working with these cans upside down you sure lose a lot of the air but okay mission accomplished thank you all right here we go 125 and just for Simplicity and because I like to work for my breakfast we are using 54 inch by 12 Footers 5 8 fire rated drywall yeah it's heavy so I got Matt here today to help me to lift this stuff but The Cutting Edge is the same just need a bigger Square they score the paper make sure you get all the way through there we go stand it up and then you gotta walk it out all right so the secret when you're working with this material because it doesn't break like the half inch okay it's really difficult feel around for that little that little scratch you make grab a hold of the board underneath that put your foot against it so your knee against it now you got three spots where this board is being held in place and you open a Lego door there we go that gives you a line to cut and all you're cutting now is paper and then grab it real quick before it falls over here we go let's get the lift in here ready one motion up and over oh baby and flip it corner now this is a chain driven model it locks as soon as I let go okay which is awesome now we just want to drive this right to the outside wall and see if this room is somewhat Square how are we looking I'm grabbing some stuff here in the window okay I'm gonna pop these down because I don't want them in the way keeping my driveway from going right in the corner being mindful you don't want to drive this through the ceiling remember that stuff doesn't dry right here we go so a slight problem we do have to go against that wall because we need to get past the bulkhead here I know I got you there you go okay nothing is a problem I did measure this off to have a little bit of wiggle room there we go let's put the difference how big is my Gap too big I'm getting five base drywall on each side so I'm splitting the gap how's that I liken that oh shoot we missed something sometimes you move fast you make a mistake don't try to fix it move back and fix it I forgot to mark where all of my framing is on the wall I wouldn't know where to put my screws if I don't do this right that's a problem here we go and that's a two by two which is even skinnier let's push it back in nice and tight let's put the difference got it all right now it's time for this drywall screw gun now the wires for that pot light are stuck underneath the drywall follow the wires out from underneath that stud it can't be underneath the wood there's a lot of extra wire there it's all freed up you can just bend the wires to the right and push them into the cavity all right now that that's done we're good to go we're just gonna use this drywall screw gun which sets the screws to the perfect depth here we are just for the record one in every 20 or 30 screws it fails thing doesn't work something's wrecked from the factory doesn't sit on the end of the drill here we go if you're fighting with it just throw it away it's not worth a fight there we go now move the other side now the reason I love this gun it's the pistol grip it sits right there in between your finger and you use another finger to turn it on it's nice and balanced I remember back maybe 15 years ago the drill drivers that were out there were pistol grip like this we love those then they changed the design anyway if you're watching shorts you'll see some of these drywall guys out there they've got the new feed system so they'll have a bunch of screws on a plastic sheet it's the same as like doing subfloor you can get screw fed systems for that but here's the thing about a screw fed system the screws are about three times as expensive and you're forever stopping to load it when you can just have a pocket of screws and go the time you spend reloading and loading that machine I don't know how many people are actually getting that much work done faster that it's worth the extra but for the average homeowner out there if you're doing the whole basement you've probably got a knot or you're thinking about using drywall projects over and over again throughout your career grab one of these 99 tool only right he already got batteries problem solved why spend 400 on a tool to have screws that are three times the price when you can have a professional tool that up until a couple years ago was the Cadillac in the marketplace there we go that machine along with this gun turns anybody into a drywall Pro and I'm just creating a line I don't need to Mark anything five screws for every sheet although it's a 54 inch what the hell we'll do six huh now when you're doing your drywall a lot of guys will put enough screws to get the sheet up and then move on all right I'm going to suggest you just finish every sheet one sheet at a time so you don't end up forgetting to cut something out you don't end up forgetting to do a screw line nothing worse than being on the mudding stage to realize oh yeah I got to go back and screw the drywall together that'll drive you crazy okay I think I'm almost done here okay let's cut next sheet 125 again and then we'll rotor zip this out and see if what we did worked wow yeah I went a little wide on that that's okay imagine my spray foam you know when you're working on this kind of environment and the your your tip hits the spray foam it's going to wander all right no big deal the end of the day you haven't seen this trick before all right done now when that's expanded and hard I can trim it flush throw a little paper tape over it and it'll never crack all right perfect okay now if you'll excuse me I'm gonna go hang the rest of the drywall in here [Music] thank you [Music] thank you [Music] I have got two barn doors that I'm going to cut to fit to use as pocket doors because they look really sexy they're going to be framed up like the letter Z or Zed depending on which part of the world you live in before I can build anything I've got to get my subfloor system attached note understanding the end from the beginning here's a pocket door frame looks pretty darn flimsy and right now it's held together with a plastic bracket which is great you can see at the bottom here there's a little metal bracket with a screw hole what a great location right one little spot to put in a screw so my job is to figure out where this goes in relationship to my door and then extend another piece of wall behind it but because I'm putting in the subfloor system I'm getting a thermal brake and five inch OSB I don't want to raise up my floor an inch and a quarter in front of this or around this so I'm going to throw my subfloor system in place first and then start constructing on top of that so let's go get some subfloor and in the world of simpler systems there's a myriad of options and if you haven't seen it I'll put a link in the video description we did a whole video talking about six different subfloor systems what to use where and when and why because there's a lot of different solutions and you can actually factor in cost okay what I'm doing today is building materials it's not a sponsored product this particular subfloor is three quarter inch closed cell foam with 5 8 OSB plywood this will be very easy for me to build out and finish off there we are since they didn't chalk a line I'm going to go ahead and do myself a favor I'm going to square off my subfloor to whatever the heck is going on here yeah I like that all right now a system like this really easy to install here we go this is next gen tapcon screws look at this sexy stuff huh one of the most common questions I got is what kind of tap gun screw do you use with your subfloor system and I'm going to recommend this 3 16 is the width the diameter of the screw and two and three quarters that's the length now here's why concrete floors are usually poured three to four inch but you don't need three inches of screw in the concrete to hold down subfloor generally you want half of the screw in the concrete and half the screw your floor assembly so I got three quarter subfloor and 5 8 OSB which means that I'm going to be more than fine with the two and a half inch screw two and three quarter is just a little bit of extra insurance okay we're about to find out if the bit that comes in the package is the right size hole here we go now if this is done right this type of pan head should go flush with the wood when it's finished okay maybe I didn't go all the way to the Chuck we'll try that again here we go [Music] one of the parts of the problem with using this kind of impact driver is it's really hard on screws okay much happier with that really the key is make sure that your hole is deep enough to receive the screw because you can't force it any deeper once you hit concrete on the bottom let's get a second screw in just so this thing isn't sliding around on us [Music] see a little volcano action [Music] traditionally my method of doing this was never clean out the hole for whatever reason this concrete pour this particular screw the size of drill bit if I don't clean out the hole there's too much resistance and I'm shearing off that it really is a learn as you go scenario there's no such thing as one rule for Life Products change materials change that's a new product I've never used the white screws before so if you run into trouble and you keep ripping your heads off try cleaning up the hole a little bit all right now remember pocket doors are designed to be installed on your subfloor and that's what this is now okay not to finish flooring that'll be fine we'll get along just great with that step two in this process is find the center of the hole we're looking at 68 and a half which means 34 and a quarter that's about here okay so whenever you make something Center mark they're all c on it that'll tell the whole world what that is just in case there's an extra Mark and you come back later and you go I can't remember which one was which now you know here comes the pocket door uh Marvel in a perfect world this is all just going to line up and be absolutely tickety-boo but because of my sound insulation I have a bit here that I gotta cut out okay get that Trim in nice and snug there we go now this is an uncoupled wall this is part of the soundproofing system we are not attaching anything about this wall to the existing wall we're only going to attach this to the subfloor which isn't attached to that wall end of the ceiling which isn't attached to that wall so we're making an interior wall of a wall so that we don't have any direct contact from inside to outside through either wood or fixtures or Fasteners sorry so that there's no capacity for that sound to travel and that's the key it's bad enough that we're sacrificing a little bit of quality here because well let's face it this basement that's the only window right behind it and if we don't have pocket doors here there's no daylight coming into the rest of the space and every once in a while when you lose power it's nice to have a little daylight we are going to start with that and then we are going to integrate this is how these things are done it's been a while Jeffrey or what hey holy cow and this all just fits together like a little puzzle okay there we go boom I've got to trim back this green board just a little bit it is going to be in my way yes it's that easy if you've never worked with this Persona pan product before watch the first video in this series because you're gonna see all the benefits of it but let's just face the sound quality in this room for a basement is amazing and that is the beginning of a theater room for sure it's not just sound separation it's sound management here we go round two we're gonna set everything where we want to set it and ultimately that means that I have to consider how I'm finishing out here as well so I got things where I want to put them that's not to see if we're level next I'm going to hold it in position the center line on the green board I transferred onto this now I'm going to transfer that line here because I'm going to have a pocket door on that side as well this is a two-door system so instead of having this finished in a return I'm going to cut it off so it's continuous all the way through that's all I need right there I'm just going to grab my saw cut this bad boy so here's what that looks like inside from here over is the frame this is the extension this doesn't have to be here I might even end up taking it away and re-trimming it out but for now we'll keep it in place and you can see all this extra space when you're hanging door you simply take your door and you mount your wheels a few inches from the end so they never come off the track okay here we go whenever you've got a tool like this always cut something and then Mark exactly where the blade eats that way whenever you're cutting something you're not just cutting the length you're cutting where you want the blade to eat which is super important there we go it's just Brad nailed we are going to set these aside for later we may or may not use them all right there we go cut the top of this as well so I'm going to repair my door kit now instead of relying on these brad nails I'm gonna actually drive a screw into softwood Lumber it's almost guaranteed to split so what I'm going to do is going to go in reverse I'm going to pilot hole my drill until I'm almost finished then I'll drive it forward [Music] once you see it smoking like that it's kind of like cauterizing a wound it'll never split lined up where I want it just before we start a fire that's where you want to pull it okay there we go and away we go now we're ready French door pocket door the only thing I have to do now is continue the subfloor and then measure the same frame back to this location cut it join it together and then we can finish off with brand new trims that go all the way to the outside that's the easy part so now I got a system all I have to do now is get some two by fours make a couple of boxes so I can mount floor to ceiling screw this to that box duplicate that the other side we've got a pocket door system here we go for the first time in a while first time I pulled the laser level out on this job since I've been here anyway here's what we're gonna do these uh door kits come with a jam for the other side of the hole and so I'm going to incorporate it what I'm going to do is I'm going to close up this turns out to be the perfect depth for this thickness of this wall who knew and so what I'm going to do is I'm going to set it here I'm going to put it on shims level it off and then I'm going to bring this up to that point and then I'm going to cut and Mark this again if I do that on both sides it's going to change the way that I finish this but at least it'll look really bloody finished and that'll be a good thing so I already know because I use the level that both of these walls are like this so the bottom is going to go flush and then I'll shim from there all right here we are foreign we're going to just release all of this packaging and get my other agenda there it is put that in storage if you ever get material like this don't throw it out one day you'll need it and then you go to the store to buy one you realize they want to charge you 15 or 20 bucks for it so small little pieces of the rectangle are worth their weight in gold get that out of here we'll put that out of here for now let's get that one installed if I'm gonna do something on one side I might as well do it on both using the same tools and materials gotta get used to that it's not pneumatic here's why we're doing this because now when I put that in get that out of the way boom that'll be the way it finishes that looks very intentional so that's why we're doing this so the goal here really is to get this installed as level as possible shim it off we're just using taking advantage of an opportunity here really you know like I always say know the end from the beginning and you know when I started putting this together I thought I had the end figured out but when I went and checked that became a very useful piece of extra material so I'm probably going to save 15 or 20 bucks for each of those that's awesome all right let's make sure we're Flesh on the face yeah so this is not Square that's what's going to throwing me off that can be a little frustrating just gonna nail it all right what do you say I'm just tacking this in for now I'll use something with a little more robust completely level it off later okay here we go and then here it is nice when the framing is actually pretty darn level makes life simple oh now we can move this over check our positioning and then because we marked our Center Line I'm going to double check how my location is working wow I'm still perfect here good that one doesn't need to change yeah the most interesting thing about this build is I'm trying to have it uncoupled but I don't want to have it fall over and hit the cameraman again so I am going to just throw one of these in here it's a two inch nail oh and that didn't grab did it nope too much material I'm going to put one screw in temporarily how's that sound there that'll keep it from falling over because what I got to do is I got to make a wall here and I want to make a little H frame up top so in order we can install the drywall and then we're going to install this one over here in this location do basically the same thing now I'll have to remove the screw later and we're back to here I think what we can do we should be able to just measure the Gap from here to here and then go cut it right now 34. okay I want to have to take one look at this real quick before I go guessing I better put that on take a good look here yeah you see what's not perfect though oh I got it on backwards one second there we go that's how that gets installed yeah I'm 34 from the metal I'm measuring here from the metal okay you only get to do this once are you buying a brand new frame so I'm actually 34 and 5 8. that's good to know damn second is it actually perfect I might not have to do it that is really weird the problem is is this would it's installed on the wrong spot but I'm getting rid of that anyway those are just extra okay I think what I'm going to do is I'm going to remove this pull this over tie them both together and then I'll use the shims to install this where I want it when it's done that's okay we'll live to fight another day so inside these tracks they've got holes that aren't used and I'm going to just align my 2x4 here we are boom and I'm just using this like a header just to make it one door one piece to manipulate the more these things are floating around on their own the harder it is to finish those off this will Square everything off foreign now it's one door let's just throw a screw in over here now [Music] wow that just took a little bit way too much brain power next thing let's just move right on into measuring for this Frame what about 19. so if I use a 19 top and bottom I'm going to be coming in contact with that drywall no matter what I do okay 19 to that point there now this takes a little bit of guesswork but I'm going to intentionally measure shy I'm going to go to 99 and a quarter the reason I'm doing that is it's easier to put a wall up and have it be shy and they use a three inch screw to make contact with those posts then to try to make it perfect [Music] all right now I'm going to take this I'm going to go flush with the face of the horizontal piece on the door throw a few screws in here to tie it all together so this Gap is going to be maintained part of using this trim and overlapping the cap here causing me a bit of an issue I mean it looks pretty but I gotta I gotta maintain this half inch Gap all the way over here so I can stay Square [Music] there we are and there's one hole right here in a metal bracket well there we have it first half that seemed like a lot more work than it should have been so instead of trusting 2x4 is a straight edge here which I can't because this is built up material so it's really hard to get these aligned properly so what I do know is that this wall was made on a chalk line I want to maintain my half inch space right over here and then I want to make sure you can see that's pretty level and I have the adjust the ability to make this adjustment so I think what I want to do is I'm going to take a two by four I'm gonna go put it on the flat up against the wall yeah with just enough space what to do what to do okay so I'm not gonna have a whole lot of options here yeah that's not even going to reach sometimes having a plan and from the beginning is just impossible and you got to make it up as you go along sometimes you end up doing it all twice at least watching this video you're going to get an idea pros and cons of what I'm doing here [Music] all right there we go we'll throw another one in Trying to minimize this for the Fasteners connecting these walls as much as possible but at the end of the day [Music] and that missed [Music] this one's got to go in bloody lovely that'll work okay the challenge here really is this I have two doors each inside their own pocket it's one continues across the top so at least the top meat what happens at the bottom I have no idea but here's the thing that one screw at the very bottom is accessible even after the fact so if I have to I can disengage those two screws line up the walls and then drop them in again so that's in my benefit I really am not going to know if this is perfect or not until I get the doors in that'll tell me everything I need to know okay now we got to get in here let's just line that up first oh come on honey [Music] all right perfect what if I just added a nailing surface across the top it's got a couple of measurements here really this is all about having a nailing surface for my drywall at this point 77 inches will do the job and then I need a full one here flipped up because as long as I mount it this way Max I can adjust my whole bloody wall down the road once the doors are in on [Music] oh come on [Applause] there we go so that was a lot of fussing around but we finally got it where I'm happy with it I think I'm trying to build a wall inside of another wall and the last thing I want to be concerned about is everything here level and square that's old I can only worry about the doors because they're going to be coming together can't have them like this when they close we've got the ability to unscrew at the very front and make adjustments to each door so I can get the swing perfect I'm happy with that I've got a box here that's a nailing surface for drywall tied to the ceiling an alien surface up there I've got this screwed here and I screwed it at this point here and here okay I'm just leaving an X here so I can find them if I need to take these out and then reposition the mounting later to make sure everything closes properly that's an option so I've got four screws bottom there and the tops up through here and that I can access at any time so I can make adjustments as I go now it's time to finish closing because tomorrow we start taping this bad boy let me just get the first piece on got one more trick I want to show you when you're working with a pocket door really nice if you're working with 5 8 drywall they're not really designed for 5 8 drywall so I'm most likely gonna have to add myself a rectangle if you want to trim it out but that's not a real big issue I'm just going to come here I'm going to Mark so that it goes into here that's my location and I've got it cut so that this joint ends up resting in the middle of this right here okay I want to have a screw surface so this whole piece isn't just floating in an emptiness and if you're wondering yes this is 54 inch drywall when I got the delivery for this room they only had 54 inch drywall 12 foot sheets available so unfortunately I had to buy a whole bunch of this stuff okay now all right to the middle yeah makes sense four feet creates a little bit extra work for me eh but hey it's only a drywall oh and there we go okay now here's a warning for you when you're going to put your screws in on these Hollow door kits you have to remember there's going to be a door in that hole and you have to buy extremely short screws now if you're using half inch drywall your half inch plus the full thickness of this wood it's an inch and a quarter you can't go with a traditional one and a half inch screw you got to go get a one inch screw because when you start sinking it on the tapered edges the screw sticks out just a tip just about an eighth and then when you open a closer door you get gouges in it and that's maddening so in this case I'm using inch and a quarter screw but that's because I Got 5 8 drywall and I got a screw set on this to make sure that doesn't go too deep you don't want to feel it at all because all it takes is for why the doors open someone just leans on this wall and it deflects there goes all your beautiful work so make sure your screw is short enough come on honey that it's not sticking out the other side there we are all right well you get the idea is drywall well now that our framing is all done and I whipped together a quick pocket door I'm just joking this is actually available as a barn door at Home Depot it's extra wide extra high so it's not an 80 inch slab this is like 84 I think this is great if you're doing a project you want to have a surface barn door on the rollers right now they're making these things you don't have to construct your own we're going to actually cut this down just a touch I love the width don't forget my vision for this is to have the door sticking out about three and a half inches and then have a nice handle on each side so you can just close it and open it from either side and it's not going to be recessed inside the wall 100 I always just found that the hardware for that is sloppy and silly and you got to stick your thumb in there and pull out the little pin we're gonna go sexy Boom Big handles all right so what I wanted to do is take a quick second here to do a little bit of Framing and you'll understand in a second because that's a 36 inch now here's the wheels they just pop in and out these are adjustable and right now this is set for the maximum depth in the package that it comes with it comes with a tiny wrench and you can stick it on here and you can just Lift It Up Lift It Up Lift It Up okay what we're going to do is we're going to take advantage there we go lots of fussing around there we go that's locked in now and this will sit on top of here and we move it a few inches back just so that it doesn't accidentally fall out through the hole because that comes out pretty quick and easy right so by installing it a couple inches back and by adding a screw after we're done we'll create a bumper and then so it'll stop and that'll be nice what I'm going to do is I'm going to leave it fully extended and I'm going to measure for my door from here to the floor and I'm going to compensate for the fact that I'm putting in an engineered hardwood floor and I'm going to try to measure this about as close to perfect as the guy can possibly get and that looks like 80 and three quarters now I'm going to slide it over here and double check the measurement see how close to level oh right on the money and I'll do the same for this side see how close to level perfect every time I love it this is brilliant it was a bit of fussing around getting this framing in but now that I've got it level Square Plum all those wonderful things the rest of this project is easy right so now I got 80 and three quarters that's the height to my floor I'm gonna take off the three quarters that's not the thickness of my floor but the truth is is I got to have at least an eighth of an inch of a gap right I can't just drag it across the floor so we're just going to cut it to 80. boom done now because it's a pocket door I want to show you this it's got this phenomenal little guide groove on it okay so what I'm planning on doing is installing that guide groove right outside the door here so when we're all said and done I'll slide the doors back and forth we'll get that lined up and that Groove will help to make the meet in the middle and then I'm going to use a little mullion trim over aside one of the doors so create like a c channel so the other door fits into it and that'll give me my airtight seal throw a couple magnets on there we're gonna be good to go right now we're going to cut the top and I've got to set one another thing up I'm going to show you how to set the depth because you don't want the door sliding all the way into the cavity damaging your woodwork with your handles so we've got to create a bumper for that as well first let me just rip this down to 80 and give it a quick second so I'm looking to try to screw these a couple inches from the edge there's my one location first and second here we go all right and we really want to try to nail this dead on the middle one and three eighths just double the bottom oh God this isn't working for me how about just that looks like it's in the damn metal to me there we go holy cow I'm really overthinking over complicating this all right now in a perfect world I think pre-drilling would be a good idea here but this is softwood Lumber and it should receive the screw no problem I'm just making sure because in these environments you usually get a lot of knots [Music] we are going to be just fine the reason I did that in advance is because this is tricky with Hardware I'm going to offset it a little bit make sure you got a direct line here we go go back [Music] all right [Music] now let's try to square that off there we go all right same for the other side foreign I did that backwards this little pin needs to be accessible so you have to have them on the same side of the door I like it on the interior side there's gonna be one little piece of trim here all right and you should just put a couple brad nails in it and that's it if you ever need to access this to make adjustments go over time the door can you know sag or slump you can take this one piece of trim off and then you'll be able to see this and have access to this nut and that's that's very vital so make sure that these pins are all facing inside the room sometimes you just move so fast uh you miss the details there we go all right let's hang this sucker all right now because this is the French door I can actually install this door after the fact right in a lot of cases if you're only using one panel you've got to hang the door before you close up the other side or you gotta hang the door depending on your environment just to lift it into place but because this is a French door I have this kind of freedom here we go [Music] all right that is phenomenal and yes it's too low right now but like I said we can take our wrench we can make adjustments I can pop it in and out as I need it but for now let's take a look at this and remember what I told you using the short screws okay you shouldn't feel any prickly things on the back because here even while we're just testing this out this door's bouncing around right you don't want to go oh I don't really need it one straight gouge in a piece of wood the door's garbage because you'll never fix that that's my final resting place imagine a nice great big handle on here right that'll be cool so we have to do something to make sure that this doesn't fall all the way in because I don't want to damaging the face of my wood so let's just try to go with that's a good measure looking about two and a half inches to build out okay two by four to the rescuing it's quite pleased to keep scrap wood around never know when you're going to need a 2x4 Save the Day [Music] all right here we go loving it now in the package with the door comes this little rubber stopper this is the bumper and it should be set at about the middle of the door right there now that's what happens you hear that almost nothing now that sets my door I got beautiful location for a handle I'll just stay with a nice nice big surface screw in situation this will work perfectly all right now all I gotta do is cut the other one stick it in as well and I'm going to stain these in place after the fact watch this I can pull this door all the way out and stain the entire door I can even cheat pop over into the next track if I absolutely need to that's not as easy as you might think but hey it can be done okay here we go I can slide it right over the middle and then I can stay in the door and then I can slide it back and I can pull the other one out in the middle and stay in that one and let them dry hanging in place but for now I got to use this to get back out of the room so here we go so listen we're gonna just measure off 80 inches on both sides all righty this gives me an opportunity to see if my drywall square is still Square she's out a little bit straight edge here we go because the nature of the door this is going to be up inside the cavity no one's going to see it I don't have to sand it clean it doesn't even have to be perfect but it has to be is it out of the way so I'm gonna put my black line above my pencil so I don't eat too much of the door off I'm gonna have my finger on the side and off we go to the races [Music] foreign now that might look a little funny on camera but just imagine this in the door you're gonna have molding and trim work coming down to here so this door just disappears inside the cavity of the wall it's not going to look bad at all and you don't want to start cutting off the bottom because that is visible so keep the factory line especially when you've got the groove if I started cutting down there I wouldn't have a Groove anymore and I would lose the ability to control the base of the door and how it was going to line up [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] thank you [Music] just a quick note guys here's a tip for you before you put this casing up when you're around your windows anytime you're in a basement your ceilings with your doors or your window trim you're going to end up with little pieces of wall like this that have to be painted or they look stupid you can't just paint it in with the trim or with the ceiling paint so since you're your own contractor you get to be the Carpenter and the painter you can reverse the decision and you can paint those hard to reach areas first okay now I get my paintbrush in here without any difficulty here we go that might be better you can cut your line there we are remember you can't use any tape on new construction because tape is going to peel the ceiling paint right off for the drywall it takes about 30 days for paint to cure so if you don't learn how to paint freehand you're going to be a world of hurt trying to get your project done [Music] okay now you want to do both coats above the window take a look at how easy that is now when you're done you can put this up a couple of nails and your paint is perfect every time my top 10 tips so that you can have a perfect every time basement renovation paint job tip number one of course is do a prime check after you've done your drywall get your beige mud out or add some chalk red or blue chalk line dust into your mud so that you can make a colorants mix it in and then go look for Perfections use different kinds of lighting use direct light use offset light do Prime check in the morning and then do another one in the afternoon this is not a process that you want to rush new construction always has little problems it's just the nature of the game even the drywall will come with dents that are predetermined just from the handling and shipping process once you've got all your Prime check done tip number two is you've got to sand your Prime check you've got to sand your walls now in this room we did spray ceilings we sanded in between two coats of spray we sanded before we spray the rule with paint in general is this once it's dry you sand it now the only time we don't sand is after the last coat is done every other time before you touch a wall you sand there's always dust there's always imperfections there's always a rough surface and so the best paint jobs are finished by having a smooth surface before you start sanding is simple use an orbital sander just like in our painting videos right on the drywall right on the primer all right and it's just a quick pass [Music] now because this is new drywall you also want to check it with your hand make sure well right there that corner there is just the drywall paper and it had the paint sprayed it's still a little rough there's no mud there it's just the nature of using a sprayer there we go now it's smooth like a baby's bottom be picky you're only going to do this once so be picky you'd be the biggest critic in the room and you'll be happy with the job when you're done tip number three is all about your trim because when you're doing a project like this you want to put your flooring in first so that when you install your trim you can install it right onto the floor and you don't have to add another piece of trim afterwards extra trim costs extra money extra time extra cogging extra paint work and you're always faced with the same dilemma and that is you have to paint right up against the floor in our system what you do is you paint all of your baseboard first in another room and then you install it and your nails should always go in the middle of the board that way when you're all finished said and done and you have to paint the touch-ups you only have to bring your brush and roller halfway down the board because from here to here is already completely finished that'll help you avoid the costly mistake of getting paint on your flooring and then having to scrape it up or clean it up remember a lot of surfaces today engineered hardwood even comes with water-based finishes so you can't use acetone to take paint off of wood and be guaranteed you're not going to have a problem that's money in the bank now tip number three you use for your baseboard and your casings you don't want to ever have a brush go any were near your flooring ever again tip number four is this when you're trimming out your windows use half inch finished plywood use a top grade quality plywood that's super smooth okay it's easy to paint easy to fill and before you put the top piece of casing on paint above it on the wall and cut your line This enables you to add this trim and you'll guarantee you're going to have room to get your brush in there without getting paint on the ceiling this is easy to paint the surface only I need because you don't have to in around the top or paint the top of that trim either when you're meeting up with an old window use a piece of trim and if it's flush use a square piece of trim that covers the Gap because over time if you rely on caulking only on that joint it's going to crack it's going to Gap because especially in a Four Season climate expansion and contraction cocking loses that battle every time so always add a piece of trim to guarantee good results long term tip number five seen so many videos on the internet people using tape to cut tape off the lines before they cut in and to cover their baseboards take this it's of no use to you on new construction if you want to avoid destroying your work don't bring tape to it remember paint takes 30 days to cure so if you put tape on your baseboard to protect it from getting a little paint on it off the roller you're going to peel off the paint if you put paint around your ceiling to protect it from touching it with the roller when you're doing your walls you take that tape off you're going to rip the paint right off the ceiling that's important tape is not your friend the new construction it's your enemy now if it's an older house and the paint's been there for years sure you can use tape but why don't you just learn how to paint like a pro because it saves you a lot of time and energy tip number six is this when dealing with ceilings if you use a sprayer you're way ahead you get a much nicer finish there's never any lines on it and I've got a video to show you how to do that they rent those machines at the Home Depot it's easy to use you don't have to be overwhelmed with the concept of it I know it's scary and new to a lot of people to use a sprayer but if you watch that video we'll put in the video description it'll make it a lot easier for you there's really only three or four tricks you need to know to use a sprayer but remember this if you use a spare where you get a different texture on the finish so then when you go to cut and roll your walls unless you've got a steady hand and you've mastered the art I'm going to suggest don't use the sprayer although it looks better if you use a sprayer and then you make a mistake and you need to do a touch-up then that touch-up brush or roller Mark is going to scream it's going to say I just got patched so consider this if you're not comfortable with your brush work cut and roll your ceilings or at least use a brush around the edges and spray the rest and know that it's going to look funny but I would recommend brush and roller on a ceiling if you're not a comfortable using painting without tape if you are comfortable with it then get the machine and spray your ceiling every single time you got a decision to make you've got two choices when it comes to painting your ceiling brush and roll or use the sprayer if you brush and roll it's a little bit safer if you make a mistake if you use a sprayer you've got to be perfect with your brush tip number seven and I know you're only painting the wall but cover all of the surfaces in the whole room and if you've got furniture cover them too because there's nothing worse than going to sit down on a piece of furniture two or three weeks after a paint job once the paint has cured and finding a great big Pink Spot on your blue sofa buy tarps that are four feet by 15 feet long line the whole perimeter take a great big 12 by 15 and open it up in the room I know I know I know if you use good paint and you take your time when you're painting you generally don't have a mistake but that's why they call it mistakes because they happen when you don't expect it so make sure you cover everything up protect your floors and avoid the need to go around after you've done your job with a little piece of wet sandpaper trying to take the paint off the floor tip number eight is all about how to solve your problems once you've got your first coat of paint on so obviously we got to do the first coat foreign [Music] [Music] thank you [Music] while your patching is setting up and drying it's a great time to hit your trim this particular case the window was framed with unprimed wood so I had to prime it there's one coat of semi-gloss on the rest of this make sure every single joint especially around windows is cocked caulking cocking caulking caulking caulking everywhere okay and then you take your brush and you're going to cut all the joints because the mini roller isn't going to get in those joints all right and we're going to just really get that all filled up nice all right then we're going to take our mini roller and we're going to apply all our flat surfaces if you do the brush work afterwards like after the mini roller you're not going to have the same texture okay so brush first and you can roll into the corners and that'll change almost all the texture on that surface and that is the best way to get that done there we go now same for up here let's finish this all the way to the other end all right and then cut that Gap there we are okay you're gonna find that if you're using plywood like I did you're gonna need a primer two coats of your semi possible even two coats of primer depending what primer you put on here but you really want to make sure and when all is said and done it's perfect every time now here's a word of warning for you when you're doing this you can't put a coat on wait an hour until it feels dry and then put a coat on nothing is Sealing real wood will just keep on soaking up the moisture soaking up the moisture and you're going to be left for the product that doesn't look like it got painted okay there's a trick for you all right get that right in the groove yeah here's the thing if you do a primer and then a finish coat let it sit 24 hours and then come back wait until it's actually set up and really dry and then you put the next coat on it'll sit on the surface without penetrating into the wood again that's the secret to getting this done with one primer and two coats of finish if you try to hurry and you're moving along too fast I'm trying to do all the coats in one day you'll come back the next day you'll be disappointed and you'll have to do another coat so the process is simple guys right dust it if you don't have a duster grab an old brush that's getting clogged up with the acrylic I like to just buy a cheap Square brush and then we're going to hit our Drywall Primer cut it right down on the baseboard and I'll tell you the process here is simple I'm going to walk you through this I paint the baseboard one coat I use a cocking bead we do a coat on the wall we find our mistakes we fix them we Prime them and then we're going to paint them and when it's all said and done the process works like this you paint all your door casing and window casing then you do your second coat on your wall and then you come back and you do the last coat on your baseboard I'm going to show you this and how easy this is and I know everybody has this issue oh some guys are commenting on channels in the past and they're like we don't believe in that we like to put green tape here I like to paint my baseboards first and then protect it with tape listen when you're cutting and you've got a wall surface to cut I got four inches that I can fool around with here to get a perfect line when I'm working with just a baseboard that's a half an inch thick one little mistake it's all up the wall do things in order they give you the most Mercy do all your casings first and then use your wall to push your brush and to draw your line around your casing drawing all your wall and do it all your wall up against your baseboard and at the very very end you come back and use the baseboard you can set your brush and you can use just a little bit of the brush to make the cut line I'll show you that in just a second once all your patches are dry you give them a quick sand and then you got to Prime them we're going right back to when we finish our first coat I have never been on a job that we sanded primed Prime checked did a first coat and we are happy with the first coat never been on one you might think oh that's because your lousy drywall taper Jeff I'm like no it's just because once you add the paint you change the way the light bounces around the room and you're going to see things that you didn't see before and if you don't believe me that's just the way it is that's just a lot of painting you're just not going to get a perfect job unless you put the time and energy in to be critical about your work after you get your first coat on if you're not critical yeah it'll look great most homeowners I know are trying to do the best job possible so that requires being critical the reason we're using the primer is because we don't want to waste our money if I prime just the spot that I did this with then I come back with a mini roller with the wall paint I'm only using an ounce or so of paint but if I don't Prime and I just use the wall paint to cover it up and go that's good enough what's going to happen is you're going to finish your second coat and then you're going to see all those patches on the wall and then you're going to have to do a whole third coat that'll cost you another gallon and in today's market a good gallon of paint runs almost 100 bucks do the couple ounces prime it let it dry I know it's an extra step but it works and it'll save you money in the long run now here's the process last day of new construction we're going to be sanding these walls so before we get the sanding of the walls we want to get our primed patch wall color this back to first coat all right now I don't have to worry about little wispy tails and stuff like that I don't even have to worry about great coverage when you have a good quality paint you're going to be just fine with the mini roller the secret here just get all this done give this about an hour to set up before you paint the walls and if you get a lint on the wall hey here we go get rid of that now don't leave lint on the wall when you're finishing off the primer like this because when you sand that back it'll leave another White Spot all right all I got to do when I go to paint this wall now is I'll start with the cut line down there on the bottom and then start on that wall and come around the room by the time I get back to here this wall will be nice and dry piece of cake right last step of course is your sanding pole people ask me all the time what's the grit that I use on the paper the thickest you want to use is 220. go up to 400 if you want again you can feel the roughness after the first coat and if you get really really close you'll see a bunch of little white dots appearing in the paint that is the roughness smooth off that's what you're going to have and that's okay the second coat is going to cover all of that so all you need to know now guys if you've got two coats you sand in between coats you're going to need a duster and that's an older brush okay clean any dust off the baseboards from that sanding environment and the last thing you need to do is cut a line on your trim with the brush you can see the edge set the brush up against the right in that gap of the wall and there we go that's it cheers to next time all right guys back here with the finished coat this is a um it's of everything water-based finish enamel I don't want these doors to be too shiny and it just needs a little bit of a stir here there we go last thing you want to do with these things is really makes a whole lot of air into them so treat them like an oil even though it's a water base okay here we are like a hell of a mess in it try working out of the top of that can this is not paint this is really watery okay here we go it's like a wet glue here we go and because it's water-based you start at the top and you work your way down so we're going to work let's do the inside of this first here we go now remember this is like next day we've given this thing what at least eight hours to dry and I want to just get a little bit of that up inside there there we go okay very important that we get a nice consistent coverage on all the surfaces so that they're all going to look the same later this milkiness of course is going to dry out so don't be worried about it that's why we're showing it to you because this looks a lot different than an oil-based finish doesn't it going on okay now I'm just going to go ahead and paint the whole doors both sides and then we're going to pop on the door handles and show you all the finished trim all right all right time for the handles for the doors guys yeah here we go interesting ah so for Simplicity ah I'm putting this tape roughly where I want my handle to go okay on both sides which is the middle of this exposed panel that's the bottom and my handles aren't quite that big but that's fine first of all let's get the let's get the level line on there it's difficult to see there it is Okay so we've got to drill some holes here and now I got some tools on me I feel like I'm not naked for this dance here we go um the instructions the cute told me to get a drill bit um seven thirty seconds they don't even carry that size but the hole isn't as important okay as the torque you're using all we got to do is pick a bit that's just a little bit wider than this bolt so now I know what I'm going to drill with I need to get a really accurate measurement from screw to screw on this set screw is the middle of the handle so instead of measuring from middle to Middle I'm going to measure from the outside to the top and that'll be the same number so 11 and an eighth and a bit put the handle down for a minute 11 and an eighth in a bit wow okay that's that eleven and eight and a bit okay this one is sticking out three and three quarters one and a half one and seven eighths yeah so just below this before the two inch 107 8. one and seven eighths okay here we go that's why you gotta love having tape now we're just going to drill the holes this is nice my hole is trying to my bit was running on me so I came at it from an angle and now I straightened it out to finish the hole I'm not going to make anything vertical if I have a bit running around on me okay a good bits but uh they don't have a little tip so they like to run all right now we can lose the tape I got these handles on Amazon they're nice and they're they're big enough that they can cover any kind of marring or chipping that happens on the wood and it just gets threaded in nice I gotta get my little plastic caps on here okay what they do is they just set a depth of a sixteenth of an inch off the wood nice clean finish there we go we just get these started with our fingers [Music] okay I see what's happening here wow I want to have that nice and square yeah nice sweet okay and of course this finishes off with an allen key open that up make enough room for it there's a delicate space here where you can open it up far enough if you open it up too much it just falls to the ground so try to be in a quiet space while you're doing this okay at least this one can roll around after the door okay and we'll do the same on the other side [Music] now the doors are done I popped in that last piece of trip and now I'm putting in screws right at the end of my track so that they can't pop out I don't need to move them in the middle to do any more work so this is to make sure that they have a stopper right where the screws are yeah all right all right there's the doors we're here in the finished theater room now it's time for our sound test now the way we're going to do this is simple we've got a little DeWalt stereo here job site radio we're going to play some music and we're going to step outside and we're going to play it again and we're going to go upstairs and play it again so that you can hear the difference in how much noise is going through the house from my microphone all right here we go all right now that's pretty comfortable but it's loud [Music] not bad but the doors closing now let's go upstairs and see what it's like in the room directly above it all right there we go guys now you can still hear it a little bit right no soundproofing system is perfect when you're in a house with central heating and air because right this room we have three pieces of ductwork that tie together with that main trunk line from that room downstairs unfortunately this is the expectation now if you're a bunch of people hanging out in the living room watching another movie this is not going to bother you this is just a little bit of background noise it's not the end of the world so no we're not making it so you can't hear what's going on we're making it so that it doesn't affect you in another space in the house and I think this is a really good demonstration that sounds like a mile away

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 87,696

Keywords: jeff thorman, homerenovisiondiy, soundproofing, sound proofing, diy soundproof room, diy how to soundproof a room, soundproofing basement ceiling, how to soundproof your room, how to soundproof a wall, how to soundproof a bedroom, soundproofing walls, how to soundproof, sound proof, soundproofing a room, soundproof, diy soundproofing, soundproof room, soundproof walls, sound insulation, how to soundproof a bedroom diy, how to soundproof a bedroom ceiling

Id: Y8G2vxO6vDE

Length: 86min 28sec (5188 seconds)

Published: Sat May 13 2023