The Classic "My Boiler Needs A Service" - A Day In The Life Of A Gas Engineer 93

but this is what I found went to the combustion case off and we all know what that's about that condens hes out the back has split and that has been leaking for a long long long time how you doing everyone welcome to today's video now it's the classic case of I need my boiler serviced we all know what that means when it comes to Silly Season you don't need a boiler service you need a boiler overhaul and that's exactly what I found when I took the case off this boiler have a watch let me know what you think it was a great job to do ended up having to do a bit of Plumbing as well which I don't really do I can do it but I choose not to it's I just prefer working on boilers and heating systems but it was at the same property so I thought give it a crack managed to sort it don't know how I done it I managed to do it somehow and it's working so hope you guys enjoyed the video remember don't forget to hit that subscribe and like button getting close to the 8K by the end of the year I reckon I'll hit it this month before even Christmas hopefully with your help and support so yeah please just don't forget to hit that two little buttons subscribe and like and then enjoy the video catch you on the next one right I'm here to do a boiler service let me show you what I've un covered I wasn't going to record it cuz I just thought okay just another service but I think you guys are going to want to see this so customers reported the boiler has been leaking a bit as well and the pressure has been dropping so in my head I thought probably the aav because the side that it's been dripping on was the right hand side it's a baxi platinum Combi 33 ha which is basically Geotech let me show you what what else I found so firstly yes the aav has been leaking secondly underneath there the pumps also been leaking I'll get the case off the flap down but the NTC is gone but this is what I found went to the combustion case off and we all know what that's about that condense hes out the back has split and that has been leaking for a long long long time so I need to go down to6 seting Spar and get some bits but because I'm here to do a full service before I do that I want to strip up take the burner out and everything have a look at the electrodes the reification probe I've checked the expansion vers that's not leaking it is flat so it will need recharging but I'm going to make a start on the service so that I can check to see that there's not anything else that I'm going to need to pick up as well so I can price up the complete job Al together so let's get that out it's easy undo that and that on there under your electrical connections on your fan and I'm going to have to pull them out because I don't want them to sit in the water under your flame reification lead your spark leads ignition leads got four 10 mil burner nuts that will come out and then we'll have a look at it on the inside see what's going on okay so now the drip is happening and I can see where it's actually coming from so where all this condens water has been sitting on these cables is actually running down the cables back down to here and then working its way out so got the bur out and Yeah there has been some issues with the condense backing up inside here as well see the rear insulation pad is very crusty you see where the condens is backed up in the past as well and that's because the condense well it's not it's just going straight down me it should be inch and a quarter or inch and a half but that's not the end of the world but I'm going to get my wet back clean all this up back all that stuff up then so electr are fine flame wreck is fine just need to get these few other bits um and there's also a leaking kitchen trap in here as well so I'm going to have a look at that see what I need to get for that and then just go and just buy everything one go and come back and sort it all right so we've also got a leaking trap here so looks like that's popped out of there completely I'm just going to take this whole come apart all right so looks be not hand wash on this missing got the plastic washer on there that's what meant to hold the rubber in place and that's what's missing from either end on this that's fine thisit in here okay so think I just need to get a new P trap cuz we've got the rubbers in there but it's missing missing the nuts let's just check all the [Music] connections this yeah that as well right so got the n on there got the n on there people off with one of their agents that of them seem to be the right size right I'm just going to have to go and get a whole lot of fittings so then put this back together cuz we're missing plastic washers and some bits some the rubbers are gone so just going to go and get a few waist compression bits and get this sorted out at the same time right boiler over H time got new silicon holes for the condense got the new pump now normally these are obsolete in the UK you have to now get the Erp ones but my supplier can still get these in I think he gets them from Italy and New hot water NTC sensor so that's that with obviously the aav NC on there and changing over oh that's all been dried up don't know if the customers dried that up or well it must have been yeah I think so saves me having to get my wet back out that's all good so I am going to first obviously change the holes drain down the boiler change the pump the aav rechar the expansion vessel change the NTC and then I'll clean this out and then flush it through so that we don't get more condense leaking out there okay let's make a start so just draining the boiler out first expansion vessel as predicted is flat as a pancake so let's get that recharged first there we go that's all bubbling out in there so let that do it thing and then we'll take this up first right let's change the aav first so just set of grips on there the reason I'm doing the aav first is because if there's any excess air in there it would just allow it to drain out so when I take the pump head off I'm not going to have any more water left in there or even if there is it would just be minimal but I think we have rechar the vessel it should be okay so there go that's swapped out and make sure yeah now the O-rings on there so that's fine that's off there's a comparison of the two different ones so let's wind that in first okay don't have to go to be mad on that it's got a RIT O ring on it so that's all good next let's disconnect pump CA in oh forgot to mention typical 3 amp fuse in the fuse spur sorry 13 amp fuse in the fuse SP so I'll be putting in a 3 amp as well get that open that screw all the way out right start off and now we just got live and neutral terminals in here so undo okay I can probably leave that as it is on there cuz then what I'm going to do with the new pump head that's got a connection on there so I'm going to remove that and then this will literally just slot straight into here but I'll probably just turn the pump head on its side of that so we get the same cable entry there okay so I've just taken apart the new pump and as you can see the connection side is the same on here so where I had this connection that was going into there where you can normally put a Molex I think is it called MOX connection correct me if I'm wrong but that's basically what you get on like the ideals but you can take it out and then this will just wire straight into there so now I've got that off I'm going to disconnect the pump head itself the the old one now we shouldn't have any water left in there but I always like to put a bit of tissue there just in case cuz we don't want it going on the board let's have a look sometimes I also put that n adversa funnel that's quite handy cuz you can put under the pump and then direct it into a bucket or something and what I tend to do is these although I've got new ones I'll keep one set because I've had it sometimes you know when you're working airing cupboards you might drop a screw and then you left without a pump screw at least this way keep keep one set don't need to keep loads one set of four will be handy I hope you don't mind a bit of the ro road noise because I've got the door open here okay right now what I'm going to do quickly is grease up the O-ring on the new pump hope you guys enjoy this real time so you can see how long it actually takes me so just going to put a little bit of smear of Grease just around there yeah I know sometimes I do time lapses but you know sometimes it's it's nice to I guess nice for you guys to see how long it actually takes me to do some of these repairs so here's a bit of real time for you o if it gets too long then uh I can skip some bits out or speed it up but at the moment let's keep it real time so now I should be able to yeah that pump is definitely knacked I hope I don't have to remove the whole housing because that screw at the bottom is pretty badly rusted okay right got the old pump out and that is you can smell the inhibitor in there or the dirt inside sometimes have a look at that filth filth filth filth but it's okay we're on the case new pump head has gone in now and you want to make sure on this pump on this boiler you get the right size pump because this is a 33 KW it's a 1560 pump rather than a, 1550 pump because it's got bigger heat exchanger it's got It's bigger kilowatt so it needs a more powerful pump to be able to run through the system there's no no there's I thought there might be an inry on that side this [Music] fine let's tight I always do it like I'm changing a car tire tighten up the opposite nuts shot right that's nice and tight don't overtighten cuz it's only going into plastic and now got live NE and earth right that's all in and then this will literally just spin around that way and slot in there like so put the new cover on right that's the pump and the a done now let's move on to the NTC okay hot water NTC let's just pull the cable out first so I've isolated the colder under the boiler now a little trick here you can use a box spanner like a tap spanner mon block tap spanner that one too big on there let's try that size yep that's the right size there there we go all right pop that in there and then should just be able to crack that he says okay box span on there there we got and do that I've just opened up a hot tap in the kitchen to relieve the pressure so we just let it suck in the air and get rid of all that water now whilst it's doing that so the new one that I've picked up actually has a rubber o-ring on it rather than a fiber washer so that should hopefully shouldn't have this problem again with it leaking so just going to let all that drain out and then we'll wind the new one in same way pop it in box Banner Over It tighten it up then do the connection back up let's see there still a lot more water coming out of there be okay now let's have a look yep now that's fine so I don't actually know if the fiber washer there's the old one out he's actually even on there yep there we go five washes po off so just put smear a bit of silicon grease around that O-ring and wind it in soly do it by do it up by hand as much as you can then box Banner if you didn't know about this now you do make your life so much because I used to try and get my grips onto it try and come up from underneath here and all sorts but I'll be honest all these little tips and tricks I've picked up through social media Instagram watching other Engineers do it cuz you can even use a box spanner on the prv as well you get a big enough monol block spanner right that seems tight enough to me yeah if you get a big enough mono block spanner you can even use one on the prv just to change the head all right let's pop the connection back in right I'm going to go and shut the tap and then come back and turn the water on okay water's back on got no leak on the NTC there I've opened up the FL return ISO Valves and now let's put some put some pressure into the boiler looking good so far hear the vessel's filling up which is good we're at a bar coming up to a bar and a half okay right we're at a bar and a half everything is looking good that's all good that's all good obviously col m is on that's all good vessel's fine so now I'm going to change that condens hose so that after I've flush this through I'm might actually put my plump underneath it so that I don't have to take out the condens straap because the condens Trap actually is clean I can't see any gunk in there so I'll probably disconnect that put my Plum tub underneath it clean this out so that Plum tub catches everything and then change the condens cells afterwards now for these I was fine get yourself a set of angled nose pliers now I got these off eBay a long time ago 11 quid I have got a set of four all different size you got straight ones slightly bent 45 and then a 90 fantastic for worcesters when you're trying to get Clips off the prv but also when you got c clips like this see how easy that is just makes it that much more easier now that is probably going to break yep which is fine need to make sure that we keep this rubber grommet because that's going to make the room SE aspect of it because this is part of the combustion chamber it's that's probably baked on as well so I'll have to probably cut that off or might have got baked on I'll sort that out in a minute let me get that off clean up the main heat exchanger and then yada yada yada right let's get this main heat exchanger cleaned up oh do you know what one thing before I start let's just shove a bit of tissue just on that gas pipe just in case we don't want anything [Music] spray all [Music] [Music] right oh okay well that's fine cuz that was the last bet I need to do anyway so now I'm going to empty this out put the new uh condense holes on then we put it from back together right let's get the new condense holes in so just not the orientation so where you got the little kick goes onto the top there because it's going to come up and then into the main heat exchanger and the bottom one will go there now I always put a little bit silicon grease on the inside of them have this circlip ready on here so I can poke that in and then where's the rubber grommet so that is GNA go that's GNA come up like that so push that through onto there like so and then I'll bring this up with it and then I'll be able to push that in afterwards and then this the new clip I'll obiously put on afterwards now we' still got bit water dripping from there because that's just from where I've cleaned the main heat exchanger out so let's just move some of that that tissue out the way we are going to get a little bit of water in there which is fine so first of all I want to guide do you know what I think I'm doing this cack-handed that's the way to do it all right so that clip is on there on the bottom that once I get it in position okay so that's on there and then on the top here I need to get this clip of the hose first come on work it down all cool so that's on there now that's on there now the other thing you can also use is a juilee clip but it's easier with the spring clips are fine I say that and then that bottom one has just come off the hose which isn't what I need that's fine what I got to do there pull the holes off clip goes back on right that's on there now I've just got to make sure get the room seal back which come there we go right that's all room seal again give it a little mop up on the inside and then put the burner and everything back together I've just had one of those moments putting back on the burner nuts one's missing had them down here thinking dropped it somewhere literally been on my hands and knees look around there look around the back here look underneath here using this guess where it is stuck to the bottom of the magnet well at least it's safe but yeah I need to get that off that is a strong magnet so get that off oh man I'm really actually struggling to get off doesn't want to come off let me try and get this off put that back on and then at least I can do my 269 checks on this cuz service wise that's all pretty much been done Parts have been replaced I can do my 269 checks and then sort out the kitchen waste okay we are back on so put a heating Demand on boil is just purging the air out of itself so a is doing it hissing away just going to wait for it to fire up and I've started using this gas KN that top T have sent me I actually find it really handy because the readings you actually get a digital display on it rather than just a sequence of lights and I've found that it actually picks up the smallest of smallest gas leaks rather than sometimes if you got the one which just gives you an audible beep sometimes you're not sure if that beeps getting quicker or not at least with a digital display and you got numbers on you can literally physically see the numbers going up if you've got a gas leak and I've had it before where the washer on this was leaking because I thought fiber washer it's just some gas hadn't changed it run my sniff around it and it was leaking changed it over it was absolutely fine so that's fired up now so let's just go around this connection cuz this is the connection that I've Disturbed and that seems to be absolutely fine so far I did this time I've learned from my from previously just change the fiber washer on there yeah we got zero no readings on there all around the back as well Happy Days yeah from Top says this is the pt5 20b plus I think they have it on Amazon as well so check it out it's really good value for money and I just think it's a really good bit of Kit as well also you don't have to change any batteries on it it just works off a USB charger so it's another good thing you haven't got to worry about changing batteries cuz I've got another brand gasnier as well a wellknown brand one but it's a bit hit and miss it's just got the audible beeps and the lights and sometimes I'm not quite sure is it picking up gas or is it not I don't know but this is basically if you see numbers you got gas leak got no numbers if it's all zeroed out yes absolutely fine so now we got heating fired up I am going to do my 269 checks on this and then sort out that kitchen trap right don't ask me what I've done but I've basically butchered parts of one trap and used bits from the other had to rub washes and seals out of it now most important thing let's just check is it leak or does it actually run through now that's looking good to me right let's try the other side the half ball trap is as well that's all running into there nice can of John West to uh give a bit of a pull yeah that's so far looking good obviously ideally you want to fill up the Basin or the sink even that's all running through there and nothing seems to be leaking it's just got have a look outside y that's running straight out so today I've done some boiler breakdowns and i' done a bit of Plumbing there you go so not my usual Forte but I managed to get to it like I said so that wouldn't go into I don't actually know what I've done but I've robbed washers or some from these probp it into here cuz basically that is the telescopic pot in there but that doesn't go into there it's ever so slightly bigger so I my plan was to put that into there but it didn't work but I managed to rub I think I rubbed a washer out of here which tightened onto there and I had to use the same nuts because these nuts weren't working or whatever but yeah it's working now it's uh it's not leaking anywhere so that's good job done

Channel: CP Utility Solutions

Views: 12,266

Keywords: plumbing, boiler install, boiler, boiler repair, boiler wiring, plumber, gas engineer, gas, vaillant, turbomax, eca, baxi, potterton, combi boiler, heating wiring, y-plan, y plan, powerflush, honeywell, honeywell evo home, diy, plumbing fail, plumbing disaster, s-plan, s plan, boiler service, boiler breakdown, gas safety, gas safe, ufh, underfloor heating, worcester bosch, worcester, ideal boiler, water leak, radiator, pipework, pipe bending

Id: 1Rus8186KlI

Length: 32min 12sec (1932 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 12 2023