Sword Bends After Hours Of Grinding 🤯

I've got this big ginormous eraser look at this don't put your hand up there dad that section's ruined you see in this storm out there the sky turned green does lightning ever hit propane bottles it is day 22 of working on the Griffin sword I just spent the last couple of days grinding this Fuller we didn't video all that because it was just hours and hours of me over at the grinder coming back to the bench checking things with my little depth gauge over and over and over the style of Fuller that I actually ended up going with is quite a bit different than what I started with what I started with was that 2 and 1/4 in wheel the wheel that was a 2-in wrapped with duct tape around it well that didn't work out so good right here it wasn't getting the Fuller as as deep as I wanted it and it wasn't looking as defined as I wanted it so I ended up using smaller Wheels on the Fuller and I have this more aggressive Edge now and a little bit of a a kind of a flat bottom or not flat but just a gentle curve so if you think about it the shape of the Fuller is more like an oval shape now for today I'm almost done grinding on this thing just have a little bit more finish grinding the Finish grinding I'm doing is at 240 grit let's head over to the grinder and I'll show you how I've been using these smaller Wheels to grind this w wider Fuller coffee break nice cold morning oh that is so good started using a little bit more coffee in the pot it tastes like liquid dark chocolate to the grinder so I've got a small wheel on here this one's like 5/8 or 3/4 of an inch and this is the wheel that I used to kind of fake in about half of the Fuller with this size wheel I'm about as deep as I can go without the wheel making the groove wider right here but as this tapers wider and wider I get close to my scribe line with the wheel and then I can kind of fake in the Bottom by moving it up and down for the large portion of the Fuller I've been using this like 1in wheel here and I do the same thing come in here and focus on this Top Line get close to that then I can come back and blend in the Bottom by using these wheels that are smaller than the Fuller I can get a really aggressive Fuller on the edges really aggressive curve and I can customize the bottom of the Fuller and keep it from getting too deep the way I've been checking the depth is with this uh depth gauge here you just set this down in the Fuller and when you turn this this little Rod comes out the bottom and measures the depth so about 88 1/2 th deep right there so just just short of 90,000 that means the webbing material there in the middle should be somewhere around 70,000 thick still so we're nice and good there on that I'm also using this to check to make sure I have things consistent from side to side as far as depth goes the depth is not the same all the way down the Fuller in fact it gets shallower and shallower as we go down that's fine but what I want to do is make sure that I have consistent depth on both sides it's going just past the 20 so what I do is flip it over and measure it in the same spot and we're going just past the 20 again so we have a good consistent depth there you can check it in multiple places going down the Fuller I'm going to go down the blade on both sides now checking it I think I still have one or two little high places that maybe don't match on the other side I'm going to find those give them a little Sharpie Mark we're going to go over to the grinder just do a touch of this fine tuning that I've been spending hours doing and uh we'll move on from there five minutes later I measured a bunch of spots with the depth gauge and I found a little area here that's a little higher than this section on the other side of the blade you're going to get to see how I've been doing this little up and down motion to kind of fake in the bottom of the fer first grinding of the day don't want to mess it up right away hey hey hey I'm on brain alert level 9,000 right now as I'm almost done grinding this clip I don't want to make any tiny little slips at this point if I accidentally put a little bit too much pressure on the wheel it might catch on the edge of the Fuller and grind away that crispy Edge completely ruining the look of the Fuller in that case to fix it I would have to grind the entire Fuller a little bit wider and I don't want to do that because I'm so close to being done grinding on this Fuller that's basically what I've been doing the whole time grinding this Fuller I work the edges and then I'll go in and do what we just did and work the bottom a little bit blend all that in that's probably enough I'll double check it with the depth gauge to make sure that it's a little closer to the other side now the average dagger most people make has a blade around 10 in Long I was just looking at the size of this thing there's 10 in so that right there is the size of the average dagger that I've seen made out there it's 12 in to the Fuller which is a a pretty big dagger we've got that plus all this the next thing I need to focus on is cleaning up the ends of the Fuller I need to get this end looking good but it doesn't need to be perfect cuz this is going to be all hidden underneath the guard I need to get this small end though looking perfect because you're going to see that so I need to make sure everything's nice and symmetrical there think I need to make myself a new scrib line too I've kind of went over that one a little bit need to make a new one there I'm going to start though with the easier end that uh doesn't need to be perfect to shape the ends of these I'm going to start out with just a little Stone that's kind of rounded over a little bit might take me a little while to find the best position for [Laughter] this cool with the light there two little strokes made me realize that there's probably a lot of dust I'm breathing well fooy that means I got to take my hat off I like my hat it's nice and warm my favorite hat my goal with this small Stone on the rotary tool is to shape the ends of the fer get the shape really defined and uh symmetrical get it shaped exactly how I want it's going to leave a really rough finish that has some little high and low spots but I'm planning to blend all that in and smoothing it up on the 2 x72 grinder and a round wheel I'll probably use a belt with a really thick kind of soft backer to it to blend all this in and uh make it look nice and smooth before using the stone I tried cleaning up the ends of the fer on the 2 x72 grinder but I felt like it was a little too difficult to uh shape things get everything looking symmetrical because I'm working on the end of the Fuller that meant one of my hands was holding this heavy sword in one hand and things were just too hard to hold stable and grind the ends clean clean on the 2 x72 the stone on the rotary tools actually working amazingly well to clean up the ends of the Fuller and get them shaped how I want them to be it's day 24 of working on the Griffin sword the other day I ended up spending almost the entire day working on the final grinding for the Fuller I'm very happy with how that grinding came out but man it took me a long time so what did I do yesterday you might say well I spent the entire day figuring out different ways to get the Fuller sanded so one of the things I actually tried was this little tool here this thing runs on air and it basically just Strokes really really short Strokes really fast and it holds a little EDM stone that stone can actually finish out your blade that thing goes really really fast something else I tried was using little flap wheels and stuff like this on the little hand rotary piece didn't work at all took like 2 seconds to figure out here are some of those more interesting things I was talking about using to hand sand the blade so this is a piece of small CPVC Plumbing this is for regular house Plumbing uh to run your hot water in I ended up putting a coupler on the end of this and then cut a slit in the coupler so what you can do is you can take your sandpaper stick it in that slit and now this kind of matches the uh the large end of the fer there next what you do you stick a drill bit in the end of the pipe and it fits in there nice and tight and it gives me a way I can actually Chuck this up in the drill and then you got to keep holding this or it'll all come undone you move your lights around and stuff with one hand because you got to keep holding the other end and then you look for the other thing and it's over here on the floor meanwhile Never Letting Go of this so it doesn't unfurl spray some Windex for keep the paper clean there we can actually use the drill to hand sand the Fuller and you can just go to town with this there's one of the problems right there I wasn't trying to illustrate one of the main problems but it it just showed itself it can get caught on that edge and just pull right off and that's super annoying cuz every time that happens uh you got to rewrap your sandpaper and sometimes the Sandpaper like just rips in half none of these different things I showed you to handstand the Fuller worked I thought that maybe one of them would cut off hours and hours of hand sanding and make it so the the Finish came out beautiful but nothing quite worked out like that so I got the other side of the Fuller sanded yesterday what did I end up going with in order to do that well the main two things were good old elbow grease from righty and Lefty here and erasers so I've got a couple erasers here this is your normal kind of size one and this is one of dad's Uber super giant ones for big mistakes and I put a radius on the edges oh by the way I'm not using just a straight eraser this is just the backer I'm wrapping the Eraser with sandpaper I'm not just sitting there erasing grind marks with an eraser I should have made that clear wrap the Sandpaper around it and that gives me a little bit of a backer uh and the backer has a little bit of Squish too so it'll kind of conform to the uh the radius being Dynamic and changing as we go down the Fuller so now that I took you through all the different things I tried let's get into sanding this Fuller let's get this side sanded up to 600 grit so it looks as good as the other side which you haven't seen yet get rid of all this junk the grd I ground the Fuller to is 240 grit it might be beneficial to start hand sanding at 220 and then go up from there but I thought it would save a little bit of time to skip a grit so I'm going to start at 320 that's what I did on the other side and it worked pretty well using Windex to clean the Sandpaper help it cut better and longer and right now I'm just going to focus on the first inch or two all I want to really do is get this plunge cleaned up and that's one of the most difficult parts of hand sanding this entire project there's just a whole whole lot of this a whole lot of this hand sanding this side of the fer is going to be a little bit more difficult because my brother Josh who runs the uh video camera and edits all the YouTube videos is asking that we keep this light off for the videos so it looks better and I look better but it also means I can't see what I'm doing now I can see kind of it's just really dark but really for what I'm doing here I did so much of it yesterday I could probably do it without looking at all like okay I'm feeling that I'm kind of over here on the left side of the Fuller now yep do that a little bit let's see I can probably section a new piece of paper there yep paper's getting a little dull feel that sand on the right side of the Fuller a little bit so probably don't even need to see what I'm doing because I did so much of it already see what happens if I hand sand the Fuller in now versus later is that right now I'll get the Fuller sanded these Corners will get round it a little bit and then we'll come in and grind The Edge bevels and when we grind those Edge bevels it'll grind down into the Fuller a little bit pretty much everywhere except for the very base here and that'll risp up all the Fuller I just finished sanding both ends of the Fuller the timec consuming Parts if you're wondering what all the extra noise is Dad is currently making up some uh tightly Twisted Damascus for fittings on a dagger he's about to build got the forge running over there and the press and twisting and vent fans and all sorts of stuff I however am going to go ahead and show you how I'm sanding the field of the uh the Fuller here so the big portion in the middle I've got the this big ginormous eraser with two different radius radius radi radius is is radi we've got a gentle radius here and a really aggressive one I can use that gentle radius up here on the big area and the more aggressive one down here when the Fuller gets smaller for this I'm using the biggest strip of sandpaper I've ever hand sanded with I need something that's as wide as this eraser is so we'll just take this and wrap wrap it around the uh the Eraser and then I hold it into place Windex and start sanding don't put your hand up there dad I want to try to catch it I saw you put your hand up on top of the Billet you fire no no wait going in the opposite direction that that section's ruined I've done I've done that before I've I've done that before manually I've ruined bullets going the wrong way yep I push it that way got to go the other way Josh at first I thought it was splitting because it was too tight but it's it's the opposite direction you seeing this storm out there the Sky turned green and there's some hail and there was huge gusts of wind a minute ago it's kind of calmed down a little bit but it is so green outside look at this little tiny hail on the ground look at that does lightning ever hit propane bottles oh can only imagine I need to YouTube that later you imagine lightning hitting a propane bottle I think that will be all the sanding I'm calling it there I am done sanding this Fuller by the way it's the next day now so this is day 25 of working on the Griffin sword I ended up spending pretty much all of yesterday and most of today just sanding on this Fuller my hand my thumb is tingling literally tingling from all the uh sanding stick pushing I've done it looks so good though it looks so so good but look at that it looks so good I am so exhausted my arms are just super sore that was like days three three and a half days of hand sanding on this Fuller wow it came out really nice though it's kind of funny seeing this like finished Fuller in the midst of a very unfinished blade we've got uh blade bevels to grind and stuff on here but the Fuller should be pretty much done until etching before I end the day I'm going to go ahead and give this a protective coating right now I don't want this to rust the 1,000 grit finish is pretty much the final finish that this blade will need to have before I etch it after all the handle's done let's get some good Dum sprayed on here wow really blued my finger would you look at that that's that's actually really pretty it looks like a deep blue anodized aluminum or titanium that Fuller being sanded to 1,00 grit the dam actually looks really pretty on it such a smooth silky blue color I kind of want to lick it looks like it would taste good and that is it it for today the Fuller is finally done what a huge undertaking that took way longer to grind and way longer to handan than I was thinking but I love the results we've got this beautiful wide Fuller here that tapers down nice and small and once we grind these Edge bevels in it's going to taper even more and look even more Dynamic than it currently is getting lighter still kind of heavy but getting lighter it is Day 26 of working on the Griffin sword I am finally finally finally done grinding in the Fuller and sanding the Fuller that took forever today we're going to be grinding in the edge bevels this blade is currently a solid quar inch thick not very sharp at all very blunt very heavy still hard to swing around this is going to lose so much weight today but we're going to hog I mean hog Material off we're going to use a coarses belt I have and we're going to use the corn of it and just be grinding that material away so fast there's going to be Sparks and more Sparks and Sparks catching on fire and fiery Sparks all over the place as always before we get to grinding I need some layout lines to follow there are no layout lines on this Edge I need to get good solid layout lines right now because this will be the last time I'll be able to add layout lines to the edge as I start grinding in these blade bevels it's going to taper the blade and we won't be able to lay it on the flat Granite anymore so I need to get good lines to to follow right now which also means I need to make a decision how thick do I want to leave this Edge after grinding The Edge is going to be flat ground with the very edge being convexed so the convex will go down to like 10,000 of an inch or so that's not what I need to decide right now though the convex part I need to decide how thick I want to leave the edge before it's been convexed the number I'm throwing around in my head is 40,000 I think I'm going to try some different layout lines and just see how they look also we've got a beautiful Griffin sticker here it is very cold today and I have ginormous fingers and I cannot separate the back of this sticker from the front let's use a little help of our matte disin designed automatic there we go I love this little knife by the way matte disin design made by Kershaw now we're ready coffee break oh that's cold now we're ready 11 minutes later an update after staring at this I think what I want to go with is 45,000 on the edge I'm going to dry off this Dam I just sprayed over these lines I made we're going to do the actual scribe lines on this thing also if you're wondering why it looks so cold in the shop and I'm wearing all this we've got the garage door open dad's over there hammering away forging out a mosaic Damascus dagger right [Music] now s l ooo pretty he you can see all the high and low spots on my sword now one other thing I wanted to do before we rough grind this is to actually weigh it before and after grinding so I've got a scale here get it centered on there 4 lb and 12 O this thing is very heavy let me know down in the comments what your guess is for how heavy this blade will be after I'm done grinding on it and by that I mean like after the edge bevels are ground in not after all the Tang is shaped and all that stuff just for a reference I'm estimating the finished weight of this sword with the handle and everything included to be somewhere around the uh like 3.2 to 4 lb Mark kind of in that range so this blade has a lot of weight to lose cuz it's currently heavier than I want the entire sword to be I think after I grind in these Edge bevels the sword is going to weigh 2 lb and 10 oz that's my guess Josh you just saw how heavy the sword is what's your guess for the uh the post grinding weight I think it's going to be 2 lb and 10 oz that's my guess I don't know oh also the background's bad hey Dad you got like a minute so this sword blade currently weighs 4 lb and 12 O what's your guess for how heavy heavy it's going to be once I get the edge bevels ground in 3 lb 6 oz 3 lb 6 oz very good back to forging all right mom so this sword currently weighs 4 lb and 12 O we're having everybody guess the weight on it how heavy do you think it's going to be once I get these Edge bubbles ground in 2 lb 15 o 2 lb 15 all right perfect actually I think that's that's a good guess accurate probably said that that's probably better than my guess we are ready to go do some serious rough grinding with a coarse 36 grp belt at the grinder the bevel grinding on this sword will give it the ultimate transformation right now it just kind of looks like a sword-shaped object with a fuller but once we get these bevels ground in it's really going to start looking like a real sword I'm using a coarse 36 grit incinerator belt for from broadbeck this thing has some nasty gnarly ceramic on it and just eats away at the hardened steel very quickly I need to be sure not to overheat any of the edge as I grind on it if I heat up any of the edge too much with the grinder I could ruin the blade the reason heat from grinding could ruin the blade is because it could temper the blade automatically from the Heat and temper it at a temperature that's higher than we actually tempered the blade making it too soft in that area you either have to reharden the blade which is going to be more difficult now that the edge bevels are starting to get ground in or start over completely if you can't reharden the blade [Music] w yeah after that little accident I think I'm going to have to be a little bit more careful when I'm taking the blade out of my uh my cool water tank there there is a fluorescent light hanging above and this blade is way bigger than a normal dagger so I got to make sure I don't bang into that thing I got really lucky I didn't hit a bulb and shatter it right over my head to quickly eat away at the material on the blade I use the corner of the belt using the corner of the belt allows me to apply more pressure in a small area forcing the ceramic grit on the Belt to eat away at the steel very quickly the closer I get to establishing nice Blade bevels the more I flatten out how I'm grinding up against the belt so to simplify it I start off grinding really aggressively using the corner of the belt and then as the bevels get bigger and bigger I start laying the blade against the belt flatter and flatter and not removing material so aggressively I definitely don't want to grind away too much material in any one given place or I'll end up with a thin spot on the edge or I'll have to make the entire sword thinner because of it I've got a nice bright work light set up right at the grinder so I can more easily see the Scribe lines on the edge of the blade I don't want to grind over those scribe lines and if you can't see them then you don't know when you've ground to them so having a work light set up for me is [Applause] crucial [Applause] [Music] it's the end of the day and I am done working on the sword for now I just removed so much weight the sword has gotten a lot lot lighter just after that grinding session I still have a lot more material to grind off though so I'm not going to weigh it just yet but I can already feel it it's definitely getting easier to swing overall it's looking really good it's actually starting to look like a sword now we've got blade bevels coming in we've got beautiful Fuller I am loving this thing so far it's day 30 of working on the Griffin sword we've skipped a couple days because I have been grinding this thing day after day after day rough grinding it I currently have the bevels rough ground they're probably a little Beyond rough at this point though I did 36 grit to rough them in and then I did a lot of the grinding at 50 grit and then I finished the rough grinding stage at 180 grit let's go over to the Disc Sander change out some fresh paper get my respirator on and start disc sanding this uh this side of the blade here that I haven't touched yet I'm at the Disc Sander you might notice this is not in its normal place it normally goes way back over here in this corner but the sword is so long that there's a wall over here and there's a grinder over here completely in my way so yesterday dad dad and I drug this thing out to the middle of the floor we had to unscrew it from the wall undo the duct work and now we've got this kind of janky looking vacuum hose pipe going from the ventilation system all the way over to here so we still have some uh some ventilation sucking all this dust out I didn't change the paper on this Disc Sander yet this one's kind of worn out I wanted to show you the uh changing process because it's exciting the Sandpaper on the Disc Sander does not get a lot of mileage at all it wears out very quickly and it still feels a little bit sharp like if I was hand sanding that would still be sharp to me but on the Disc Sander it needs to be like brand new sharp to do to do well so there's the old piece I'm just using the regular 320 grit 3M uh wet dry sandpaper that I use for hand sanding to hold the Sandpaper onto the disc we're going to use some spray adhesive dad made this little cover here so we don't spray spray adhesive all over the Disc Sander and have dust sticking to it horribly Shake It Up spin spray just a little bit and then I want to spray some on the Sandpaper too just a little bit breathing nasty stuff we're going to have the vent on here in a second okay and then the key thing to this this won't work unless you have one of these you have to have a Kyle Royer made Chopper that's made for doing competition cutting if you don't have one of these you won't be able to trim the uh paper off the disc properly and you'll have to just buy pre-made round pieces of paper or something else like that there's no way you'll possibly be able to do anything like this with out a specifically Kyle Royer made competition Chopper so I can just take this come over to the edge of the disc and trim the paper all the way around nice and pretty we can hand sand with that later this is probably way too much detail on how I'm changing the paper this isn't a c this is a YouTube video what am I thinking okay that is ready to go I'm going to be running it at a nice low speed here something like that I don't know how fast that is it's 30 I'm turning it at 30 speed all right let's go get my respirator on cuz even with this vent I've noticed uh this thing creates an incredible amount of really fine dust so this suction system is super good but I still probably want to have the respirator on because that dust is getting up in my face and glasses and the sword blade I noticed right away that I should probably start disc sanding with a little bit coarser sandpaper on the Disc Sander but the only thing I have that's coarser that fits on here is like 80 grit and that's two course so we're going to go ahead and suffer through the 220 at least I won't need to jump up a grit it'll already be at the the final grit I wanted to disc sand at but it probably would have been real Handy to have some like 200 or maybe 180 grit on hand for this and then jumped up the next grit one of the beautiful key benefits of using the Disc Sander is you have this super wide flat surface that you're standing on the blade with and that allows you to get rid of those high and low spots in the blade very easily a couple of the negatives to using the Disc Sander are that the paper wears out very very quickly on the Disc Sander and I find it needs to be extremely sharp in order for it to cut so after only a couple of minutes I have to switch out the paper to a fresh piece okay so disc sanding this blade took me a while because it is now day 31 of working on the Griffin sword wow I went through so many sheets of sandpaper I got the blade looking really really good though take a look at all this 220 grit look at all this I dis sanded this blade so much but the results I think are really going to be worth it because one of the main problems I had were were some low spots right here that transition from where this bevel went to uh being narrow on the Fuller to extra wide kind of made my belt do some weird funny things right here and I had these low spots in all four places that happened the Disc Sander got rid of those low spots because it's hitting a much broader area and it got everything looking really nice and smooth nice and flat also check out something really cool that I've been playing around with look at what we can do with the sword blade now W it flexes so much look at this wooo you can do it the other way this is exactly what I wanted the sword to do it's nice and flexy but yet it's still stiff it took me quite a bit of uh quite a bit of pressure to do that the reason it flexes like that and doesn't stay bent is because we hardened and tempered this blade this blade is virtually a really long spring it's a little bit harder than something like a car spring would be because we want it to hold a good Edge but it's kind of in that same realm as a spring so you can actually Flex it and it'll go right back to where it was look look at how much you can Flex that that is insane I am very happy with how this flexes the next thing we have to do on this sword is to actually convex The Edge what is convexing well convexing is where the edge Ed is kind of thick um flat and you put a radius on the uh slack belt and um I just cannot think with this mess right here in front of me jeez okay out of sight out of mind now maybe now maybe I can explain what convexing is convexing is where we take the slack belt so no platin no backer behind it just the belt on the grinder with nothing behind it so it'll be kind of spongy and Squishy and we're going to lay the blade bevel on the uh the belt and since that belt has a little sponge and squish to it it will convex The Edge that will give a really strong Edge that is also really refined and sharp you can really tailor the convex to the purpose of the knife depending on what you're wanting to do my hands represent the two Edge bevels if you're looking at the blade this way if you left the blade flat ground you would end up with bevels that meet like this and then right up here this is the uh the blade Edge thickness you could leave that thicker or thinner what we're going to do is we're going to convex that edge so it's going to kind of make it more of a shape like this where the edge is kind of radiused and then the rest of it is flat and you can tailor the convex depending on the purpose of the uh the knife or the sword or whatever you're doing if you're doing something like a an axe you can make this big old aggressive convex that's extra robust and durable so there's more material here to support the uh extreme stuff that axe has to go through if you're making something like like a chef's knife you can put just the tiny tiny little hint of a convex on there because you want it super fine and and slice you know really good for slicing and cutting thin things we're going to convex this I do need to protect the Fuller though we've done a tremendous amount of work trying to keep these lines on the Fuller really crispy in this Center Line right here so to protect those I'm just going to use some masking tape I find when I'm using 120 grit or 320 grit belt on the grinder doing doing this convex a couple layers of tape is enough to protect the crisp lines or the spine of your blade in this case the spine of this blade is kind of the center line it's not like a regular buoy or something if the belt starts to wear through the tape you can just stop what you're doing put a fresh piece of tape on there and you're good to go swallow Cofe rank I hope that wasn't too much uh long Exposition on what I'm about to do about convexing it's a really interesting topic to me though and there's a lot to say in my mind oh that is good oh yeah we're going to have to focus on one Edge at a time here cuz the tape is going to cover up way too much of the uh the other side I'm just trying to lay that tape over that crisp Center Line just a little bit cuz that's what we're trying to protect right here and then on the Fuller I only need about an eighth of an inch of protection there just enough to keep from rounding over that nice crisp crisp Line This roll should not be used on anything that's near finished cuz I'm pretty sure it's impregnated with a lot of nasty stuff on the edges keeping your wheel buffing wheel in a bag started doing that after Australian and saw corn doing it I'm like you know what that actually makes a lot of sense cross contamination of grits and compounds I'm rambling probably cuz I I know what has to be done but I don't I don't yet have the will to do it I sound like Thanos right there what is that what are you quot me uh froto going into the chub's layer something like that I feel like it's a Lord of the Rings thing for some reason but I really changed it I know what I have to do but I don't know if I have the strength to do it I got the green tape on to the [Applause] grinder oh not that way that would have been really bad catch on it woo Dusty I normally would start off convexing with 120 grip belt and then finish it out with a 320 git belt this time though I decided to just start out in the Middle with a 220 grip belt and keep it at that finish and go straight from there to hand sanding that way way I don't have to start with that coarser belt and then go up to the finer one I think 220 grit will be fine enough for the hand sanding but yet coarse enough to uh remove the material that we need to on the edges of the blade the edges are already pretty thin so there's not a ton of material to remove here it's not like on a big buoy or Chopper or something where I have to convex up the blade pretty far on this sword it's only going to go up the blade like an eigh of an inch to maybe 3/16 in some area I need to very carefully keep an eye on my green masking tape though and make sure that I don't sand through both those layers if I do I'm going to round over those Corners around the Fuller and defeat the purpose of keeping all those Fuller lines crisp by the end of convexing I noticed that I had worn through one layer of the green tape but the second layer was pretty much unharmed so I didn't round over any of those crisp Fuller lines I just finished convexing this thing all the way around holy smokes that was a lot of convexing to do it looks really good I didn't get it too thin anywhere it's maybe overall a little bit thinner than I was shooting for but uh at least I didn't grind it down to zero and have to sand the edge back down I might go over the edge just a little bit and sand it down just to get it a tiny bit thicker so we'll lose a tiny tiny tiny bit of width but overall I'm very happy that it went that well we can finally see how much this blade weighs now that I'm done grinding on it keep in mind we're going to lose some weight on the Tang but as far as the blade goes it just needs hand sanded at this point got the scale turn it on get it centered right there and it is 3 lb on the dot so it looks like as far as the weight goes on the sword mom came the closest 2 lb 15 oz this blade is looking so good I can't wait to move on to the fittings and the handle and really make this thing take shape I will see you in the next video May the forge be with you [Music] bye-bye

Channel: Kyle Royer

Views: 101,765

Keywords: knife making, how to make a knife, how to heat treat a knife, how to make a bowie knife, how to make a bowie, knives, kyle royer, kyle royer knives, making a knife, sharp, how to make knives, bladesmith, master smith, blades, damascus, knifemaker, diy knife, anvil, forging, custom, knife, great content, steel, bowie build, bowie knife, 10 inche bowie knife, blade, knifemaking, knife maker

Id: -gA_J5mwfW4

Length: 42min 48sec (2568 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 29 2024