Making Enma, Zoro's Katana from One Piece (Full Build)

foreign from One Piece it is one of the 21 great great swords and is powerful enough to cut a mountain in half with one slice stay tuned to see if I can actually build the blade worthy of being called enma to start off the build I have a Billet of one inch wide by almost half an inch thick W2 tool steel aside from being tough as Nails W2 is hands down the best modern tool steel for hormones the first thing I do is cut off a little bit of material at the tip at about a 45 degree angle this is actually the traditional method for forging the tip but it's not technically necessary for me because I'm starting with a bar of modern Steel next I actually Forge up the longer side of the bar so that it becomes in line with the short side this step is actually extremely necessary for traditional bloomery Steel but I'm only doing it on mine because I've never done it before and I thought it would look cool after forging the tip you're supposed to forge the moody or the spine bevels I decided to not Forge those in and grind those in later so the step that I'm doing next is I'm actually beveling the blade at first glance beveling doesn't seem too complicated but I'm actually doing much more than just thinning the edge first I'm establishing the actual bevel line or the Shinobi G second I'm setting the curve of the overall blade shape and the third I'm actually beveling the part of the blade opposite of the edge I have to carefully plan my hits so that the cross section of the blade is consistent throughout the entire thing and that it is as close to the final geometry as possible if you look at the blade closely right now the part of the blade that I beveled and said the geometry is much wider than it is in the back I have to keep this in mind because the tip is actually supposed to be the thin part it's supposed to be widest near the habaki and gradually get thinner and thinner towards the tip that actually looks very nice compared to some of my other builds with all that complicated Damascus and Forge welding it might seem simpler to make a blade like this but there's actually so much blade and so much geometry I have to keep in mind that it might actually be harder it's already like a 12 inch blade as far as how long I want the blade to be in the anime the sword is a shape-shifting sword Odin was like a four meter tall person and he wielded it perfectly but Zorro is like two meters tall and it looks just as big on him so I can't use the anime in terms of reference so I'm going to be using the history books a katana has to be 24 inches in length at least or else it's a wakizashi I decided to go for about a length of 24 and a half to 25 inches I don't want it to be too big because honestly I don't trust myself to forge a blade that big in the first place at the time of filming this video it was around 115 degrees outside and because it was so hot I decided to not wear long pants and just go for these short cargo pants because I didn't have to do any Forge welding for this Katana I had the forge turned down to one of two burners and only five PSI even though I was outputting around a quarter of the heat that it is one Forge welding I think the garage was still around 140 degrees you can see it there on my face I'm pretty much the same color as my shirt oh in between pretty much every heat of the sword I was going back to the book The Art of the Japanese sword by yoshinda yoshihara I wanted every aspect of this sword to be as true to the actual Katana as possible I may not be able to actually execute everything but if that was the case I wanted to at least know I already did something wrong here you're supposed to isolate the Tang from the spine side not from the edge side and I only noticed that after making this entire video so many people do this wrong the thing that I was pointing at there was something called the yokote line the yokote is something that you see on all traditional katana but it takes a lot of work to do usually you have to Stone Polish just the tip for a couple of days just to start seeing it I wanted this to be as traditional of a blade as possible so I was going to take it the extra mile later and bring out that yokote the amount of time it took for me to go from starting the lit to finish sword was around three to four hours you can tell that it was a while because I'm wearing a different set of clothes here and it's bright again outside and it shouldn't have taken three to four hours it should have taken me around two and that's because there was a lot of me just sitting there thinking about what I was doing next Katana are actually slightly different than every other sword that I know of and that the bevels from the blade continue all the way through the Tang I've never seen a katana in the book that I was reading without bevels continuing through the Tang but I have seen it on some modern ones where the Smiths put their own personal twist onto the blade Emma is not just a regular Katana it's a katana from one of the most popular anime series of all time and as a result a lot of fans of the show are gonna have very high standards for the blade that I make because of that there's a little bit of extra pressure on my back when I was making this I wanted everything to be as good as I could possibly make it what you see me doing here is fixing the curve of the blade with a piece of wood the reason that I'm using a piece of wood is because wood is soft enough to where it won't deform the metal at all but it has enough Mass to actually bend it at this point I needed to make sure that my distal taper was there so I took a pair of calipers and measured it from habaki all the way to tip and I think I did pretty well it went from 1.4 inches all the way to 1.25 ish at the tip which is quite good all right work with that if you know a lot about Katana you're probably wondering how come my blade already has a curve in it aren't you supposed to get that curve when you quench it and the answer is both yes and no if you were to quench it in water you would get more curve but I'm quenching it in oil and when you quench an oil it actually bends the other way so I actually have to bend it more than the final Bend and eyeing that out and making sure that the blade is straight is actually a lot of work I also have to make sure that the edge is centered to the straight blade and that itself is another can of worms calling it there now that the blade is finished forged it's time to get it ready for normalization normalization makes it so that the grain size gets smaller and that it heat treats perfectly I do it in three Cycles the first one at 1650 degrees a second at 1500 degrees and the third one is at 1350 degrees in between all three Cycles I let it cool to around 7 800 Degrees Edge side down or else dig into it while the blade was heating up in the oven I took the time to sweep the floor I really like working in a clean shop so I try to do as often as I can once all three normalization Cycles are done I take it back to the grinder and I begin hogging off a bunch of material one of the things that you don't see but I do for every single blade is I start with a dull belt to take off all of the forward scale and then I transition to a much sharper belt once I get through that Forge scale the reason that I do this is because Forge scale is actually quite hard if I don't grind it off with a dull belt I'll be ripping apart my Sharp belts thereby decreasing the lifespan of them and wasting a lot of money if you want to frame a reference for how expensive belts are that purple belt that you saw me use was 22 dollars and the blue belts are not that much better at 18 and any of the red ones that you see me use are around 10 to 12 so every single belt that I use and throw away is just money being burnt now that the blade is rough ground it's time to Clay the spine and get ready to heat treat the blade the clay that I'm using here is two parts the first part is just ground up Forge scale and the second part is something called satanite say at night is a refractory cement you usually mix it with some water and line the inside of your Forge with it but it also works really really well for putting hormones in blades and I haven't ever found anything better which is why I'm sticking with it for this Katana build oops that was too much water oh maybe that was a perfect amount of water all right satanite is pretty evenly mixed I'm gonna scale mixed with some chili powder smells so good that I want to eat some say at night actually smells a lot like instant Ramen which is why I mentioned in the last clip that I kind of want to eat it I don't know if it actually tastes like instant Ramen but I don't really want to test it out the thin lines that you see me putting on the blade here are actually called ashy lines the Ashi lines help the blade in terms of function and they give the hormone its actual shape it helps with function because if the hormone line is too straight that can actually peel the blade apart these Ashi lines make it so that those two hard and soft Steels blend together and don't want to peel apart in terms of shape it's actually too complicated to explain but just imagine that these lines are going to help cause a fiery effect I'm not actually using my heat treating oven to quench the katana here I'm actually just using the forge this is because on average the hormones that you get out of a forge quench are much better than that of the heat shooting oven I have to be super careful with my temperatures here if it overheats the blade can crack if it's under heated there will be no hormone and if I soak it for too long the hormone will actually have less activity that's why I have the garage lights turned off and I have the doors mostly closed it's probably not great for my lungs but it'll help produce a better hormone the thing that I use to check the temperature is a magnet if the magnet sticks it's too cold if it doesn't stick it's past critical temp [Music] [Music] that's good I'm not going to risk anything it's going straight into the pepper I will discover whether it went well or not after two up I sure hope this isn't cracked that would be really sad and really funny actually it's a playoff first the blade that you see me using here to scrape off all the clay is a Karambit that I forged out four years ago but never finished the fact that I have to scrape off the Clay here and it just hasn't popped off at all is probably a good sign the thing that I'm going to do next is take it back to the grinder and reveal some fresh steel usually after you quench and you want to put a hormone in the blade you can see the Jamon once you grind off all of those dark oxides and that's exactly what I'm doing here that is not good at all we have a really nice jamone on like part of this blade hmm you might have to replenish it it's far too close at this point I already decided to re-quench the blade but what was I gonna do different I had a theory that the ashy lines were too thick and the entire blade cooled a little bit too slowly and that made it so only the edge was hard I decided to take another look at the hormone on enma and do much wider swaths of clay maybe this would help the edge quench a little faster you know the the sketchy heat treat is definitely explained by the fact that it didn't Bend at all you can see here my clay is much more aggressive and I didn't actually put any ashy lines I was hoping that this would make the hormone pop a little bit better and help with the heat distribution another thing that I'm going to try to do different the second time is to heat up the blade a little bit more I had a sneaking suspicion that even though the magnet didn't stick to the blade anymore that W-2 wants a faster quench than I can give it so I gave it a little bit more heat than last time and I had my fingers crossed the entire time if I hear any pings I'm gonna jump out the window there's no window in the garage so I don't know how I'm gonna do that now that the blade is tempered after the second quench it's time to straighten it after the second quench the blade actually had pretty major warpage so after the second tempering cycle at 425 degrees I took it over to the device and used my three prong straightening jig to try and get things as straight as I could you can see here I'm really cranking that Vice down as hard as I can and the blade bends the other way a lot so I have to be careful not to snap it the little glimpses that I had of the hamon at this point were really confusing I had what looked like eyes like the letter I like Capital like an I-beam kind of thing I've never seen that in Jamon before and I thought it was just because of the D card so I kept on grinding and I didn't really look back I'm gonna file test this uh one last time [Music] after file testing it to make sure that the entire Edge was hard and that the entire spine was soft I took it over to the Anvil and used this carbide hammer from Coronet gamako on Instagram to get some minor warps out of the blade I got it globally straight on the three-prong jig but not perfectly straight now that it was straight it was time to get those shoulders grounded to the spine you can already see here I have the shoulder ground into the edge side but not the spine side I had to make sure that these shoulders were fairly Square so I used this 90 degree jig to make sure that they were Square I'm hungry oh how it's amazing that at this point I still don't know what I'm looking at the entire Edge is hard but this hormone looks so freaking weird I have a sneaking suspicion I kind of hate this I think this is a piece of garbage I think I want to forge another one it's gonna take a lot of time but in the end I think it'll be worth it like it looks cool it would pass the random observer's eye test but it's not enma I don't know what the play is I think this is a piece of garbage so yeah I decided to just reforge the entire thing I actually finished a lot more than I showed on camera I had the blade ready to hand sand and move on to the next step but it was just so like wishy-washily good that I wanted to just start fresh and make a new one I did everything better on the second one compared to the first one I forged the spine bevels I had the perfect distal taper it was perfectly straight everything was better oh my gosh you can see here it's got like the perfect amount of Bend and here it is compared to the first one I did all three normalization Cycles the same as the first one I ground off all the oxides and then I got it ready for quench again you can see that look on my face it's just full of tiredness and annoyance and that's because I didn't quench katanas three times during this video I actually quenched it four times this is the second time I'm quenching the second Forge Katana the first run of the second Katana I didn't heat up the kill enough I didn't let it soak and the second time I let it soak I heated up the oil and you'll see in a little bit it looks quite good this is the hormone that you see when you think of venma I'm so happy I did everything so many times just to get it right and now it's time for a field trip the first store on the list was Home Depot I needed to get a longer PVC pipe for my ferric chloride because the one I already have right now is only two feet tall and the katana is approximately two and a half feet long I could only buy it in 10 foot sections so I used the saw of the worker there and I cut a three foot section so I had a three foot section and a ten foot section why is this Seventeen dollars the next door on the list was a place called AZ Metals I really needed a big sheet of brass to use as the guard for enma so I went here and got a nice slab of brass another thing that I got from this place was some of their cutoffs that were really really cheap and some sheet steel so that I could make a fume hood for my Forge the next place on the list was a store called woodworker Source if you look at enma enma has a purple handle and I don't have any purple wood on hand so I went there looked for some purple heart got some help from the people working there I actually got to meet the store owner he was super nice super helpful and he helped me pick out a nice Board of purple heart as a knife maker that gets most of their materials online I don't spend that much time in woodworking warehouses so I spend a lot of time to just look at everything in the shop now that the field Trip's over it's time to start working on some fittings for enma the first thing that I'm working on is the habaki the habaki is sort of a copper spacer that fits right under the blade and goes up against the guard I'm making it from a piece of copper because that's traditionally what the habaki were made of what you just saw me do was use a cross bead and peen out two sides of a thick sheet of copper and once I hammer it to a certain point it stops moving under the hammer so I take it to a torch I heat it up to about a red temperature and then I dip it in water this softens the copper so I can keep hammering it and thinning down those two sides because copper work hardened so fast I had to keep heating it up and quenching it in water and I think I actually did that around 10 times for just this one piece now that the copper was at an adequate thickness it was time to take it over to the post Vice and begin bending it into that deep U shape this is super tricky because that thick part in the center has to stay in the center it has to be behind the spine of the blade the Copper at this point was pretty springy I might not have annailed it correctly the cycle before and so this step right here was a lot more difficult than it should have been one of the cool things about hibaki is that they are custom fit to every Katana that they're for because every Katana has a different shape and slightly different geometry every hibaki is also subsequently different and so what I'm doing here is I'm heating up the Tang so that I can Hammer the habaki on top of the tang and not risk any cracking this is actually the second habaki I've ever made the first one I made for a Tonto that I brought to Blade show and it took me an entire day just to make the habaki making the habaki is one of those things that sounds super simple but is in reality pretty difficult it's ugly as hell right now but uh it'll get better you can see here that the blade is pretty much Final Ground I didn't show any of the grinding for the second Katana because you've already seen so much of the grinding for the first one and I thought that it would get boring I think I actually got enough footage for this video to make a two hour long video if I were to show everything but a two hour long video where a lot of the stuff is repeated is not that good of a video one of the things that you don't really see about hibaki is that the spine is inset into the thicker part so you usually have to file out a channel on the top of the hibaki the next part of building a habaki is definitely the trickiest you have to file or grind a piece of copper into the shape of a wedge that fits exactly into the negative space between the front of the tang and the front of the habaki okay I might lose my fingers but it'll be worth it in the end as you can see here I opted to use the grinder because I hate filing small things and I ground it into the shape of a wedge I decided to start using a pair of tongs to hold them because copper heats up so fast when you grind it that you actually spend more time cooling the copper than you do grinding I don't know if this is small enough but uh we'll do a test fit with some luck this might just oh this is definitely the most finicky part of making the hibaki like I said before you have to make sure that it fits perfectly against the shoulder of the Tang to the blade transition and you also have to make sure that you can take it off and put it back on okay let's solder this thing oh yeah I didn't mention it before but that copper wedge has to be soldered to the habaki itself traditionally this was done with silver solder but I couldn't find silver solder within two days so I used some lead free solder that was meant to be used for copper or brass or any of those other Alloys first I put two small bars of the solder right on top of the wedge and then I covered those with some liquid flux next I used a blowtorch and heated up the entire thing till it was around four or five hundred degrees Fahrenheit I knew it was the right temperature because the solder melted right into the negative space between the wedge and the habaki after I got it sort of glued together I flipped it over and I heated up a little bit and I began pushing some solder into that space I didn't want to get this too hot or else the wedge would fall right out but I also wanted it to be hot enough to melt the wire as I pushed it into the habaki this definitely isn't how you're supposed to do this but I did this the first time on my Tonto and if I worked the first time I can probably get it to work the second time with the habaki now soldered together permanently it was time to take it to the grinder and begin finalizing all of those faces they're supposed to be a void here because the the wedge doesn't go all the way to the top but I accidentally filled that void with solder so I need to melt it out okay it's coming up okay now that the habaki's actually finalized it's time to grind all those faces in the thing about hibaki is that it needs to be thicker near the base than it is at the top and it should flow pretty cleanly into those spine Metals I was constantly checking by putting it on the katana taking it off taking off a little mini material going back and forth I think I did that around a dozen times but I think in the end it was definitely worth it here's the finished habaki next to what I started with up next on the list I had to start making the guard enma has a really weird looking guard and it's it's also fairly thick so I got a piece of 3 8 inch thick brass from AZ metals and I was planning on grinding it into the correct shape blade check mark kabaki's been created suppo is very easy the Suba is going to be something like humans and then I'll have like a a blade cut out here and it'll be like a hole a hole that looks disgusting the blade is uh two pounds and this guard material is almost two pounds now I had to figure out the best way to inscribe three circles into the square and use up as much of the square as possible now that I had it sketched out I had to find a way to get it actually onto the brass itself and the method that I came up with was describe lines according to how far the circles were on the drawing and put them on the brass and hoped that they were right this far from the mouth oh my gosh that should have been obvious it's a truck if these two are meant to fit exactly in between here of course they're one point so oh [Music] that was plans you know what it's probably because this is too slow this is the one time I didn't search up the adequate drill speeds [Music] now it was perfect now that I had all three holes drilled and countersunk it was time to move on to the next few handle pieces the next part I'm working on is the handle itself now traditionally Katana handles are made out of softer wood like Poplar but enma is purple and I didn't really trust myself to dye popular purple so that's why I went with purple heart the first thing that I did was cut myself around a one foot slab and then I cut that in half lengthwise so I had two pieces that I could sandwich together and carve out the Tang in the blade I had to make sure that these pieces were as flat as possible because if they were warped and then I squeezed them together while they were gluing that pressure could open up that glue joint sometime later and I don't want this thing to fall apart like four or five years down the line now making these two handle blocks is actually more complicated than it seems you have to be a woodworker and I'm not a woodworker you're supposed to carve out the outline of the tang and then chisel away the exact negative of the Tang itself and it has to sort of fit like a glove all right wait this wood is so hard oh man is there a faster way to do this I decided to change my plans entirely and stray off the traditional method of making the handle I decided to thin down the two pieces and actually make a frame handled knife it sounds weird but I'm also gonna bet it with epoxy later so I won't lose that glove type fit that I would get if I had actually carved it out perfectly you can see here this is going to be the center section that's going to be sandwiched with two more blocks of wood and I was checking the fit up to make sure that it went on easy and wasn't too loose one of the things that you might not know about wood is that it can warp if you couldn't have those two pieces might have differing levels of strain so what I was doing here was heating it up and bending it just like I would a knife it actually worked now that I had my centerpiece pretty much perfectly straight it was time to finalize the fit up and get it glued to those two sandwich red pieces or whatever you want to call them here I was testing the fit up of all three pieces against the handle I want it to be pretty tight but not too tight and then once that was good I used some type on three and I began slathering all three pieces in glue and I clamped them up I'm definitely using the worst possible tool for this job sandwich this is definitive proof that I'm not a woodworker now that the handle block was glued and clamped it's time to work on the sepa Katana actually have two sets of sepa one underneath the hibaki and one right above the handle what I'm doing here is I'm taking a thin sheet of brass I drew a rough outline of the blade shape and then I used a jeweler saw to actually carve out most of the insides okay now is a matter of just using a really small diamond file and spending a copious amount of time to get this to fit up perfectly to the Tang itself if you've seen my other videos you know that I always spend so much time filing out these guard slots but this was this was next level every single one of the parts that slid onto the Tang has to be the shape of the Tang if it was a rectangle like all my other ones it would wobble back and forth so this was this was just so much more difficult oh would you look at that the cool thing is that now that I have my first sepa made I can actually use it as an outline for all my other pieces I can't trust it too closely though because the Tang tapers so every single one that goes down the Tang has to be smaller and smaller so I had to keep that in my mind as I filed out all of these slots all right what I didn't know at this point was that the sepo was the easy part and filing the slot on the guard was actually going to be the hard part the sepo was around a 16th of an inch thick but the guard was 3 8 of an inch thick and it was all solid brass so I had to find a way to file out the channel and then make it actually fit the Tang foreign it probably didn't look like it but filing that slot so that it fit perfectly to the Tang it took me around five to six hours I didn't want to show it on camera because even if you time lapse six hours of footage of you doing the same thing it just looks boring there's one pound 12 ounces let's see how much it is after I get the circle grounded Jesse you're wasting so much material you're just turning into dust and putting it in your grinding bucket yes I am uh uh I'm not even gonna be apologetic about it it was super satisfying I was actually surprised at how long this purple belt lasted me I used it to rough grind both Katana and it was still sharp enough to shred this brass after I got the profile erupt in I took it to the sander and I got my faces as clean as I could get them one pound now that I had pretty much all the handle pieces roughed out it's time to do something that you definitely didn't expect Katana aren't actually flat ground they're convex and they come to a zero grind so what I did here was I took it to my 400 grit atoma Diamond Stone and I made it so that it converged to a zero Edge after I had it zero ground and definitely sharp enough to cut me I took it over to my hand sanding station and I began polishing the entire Blade the blade was actually long enough to where I couldn't get it all in one sweep so I had to hand sand the front half of the blade and then the back half of the blade on both sides so there are actually four different positions that I had to hand sand this blade what you see me doing here is polishing just the tip so that I could get that yokote line pretty much perfect it's definitely a lot harder to do with sandpaper and not with stones but I actually think I did pretty well the next thing on the list for hand sanding was the spine bevels these have to be sharp and crisp and they have to almost look like they can actually cut something so what I was doing here was I was using a file to make sure that it was perfectly centered and perfectly crisp I did my traditional hand sanded finish for my home own blades I went from 150 grit to 400 grit to 600 grit I feel like 600 grit finishes give the best hormones they don't make it completely shiny which adds texture to the mode which I really like once the entire blade was adequately hand sanded to 600 grit I wrapped it in some shop cloth and then I got ready to finish all of the handle pieces up next was actually shaping the handle block if you looked at the the piece of wood that I glued together it's much blockier than you would imagine a katana handle so I carved off a lot of extra wood and then I took it to the sander and I began roughing in the shape I made sure to check with my primary sources a lot because I wanted the curve of this handle to pretty much be exactly what I saw in the anime yeah I think it's time we drill a hole one of the things about Katana is that they're actually held together not by any kind of glue but buy a tight fit to the handle block and one or two bamboo pins I had to make sure that the block of wood was at the final position on the Tang if they were offset and I put a pin in it it would actually create space as opposed to tightening everything up now that I had my holes drilled it was time to bed the Tang the reason that I'm doing this is because because I did that frame handled construction the cross section of the inside of the handle was actually just a rectangle not matching that of the Tang so I put some Vaseline on top of the Tang make some epoxy poured it into the handle and then I stuffed it back on the tang and took it off four to five hours later when the epoxy was just tacky this will make it so that it has a glove tight fit on the tank now that the handleblock was pretty much mostly finished aside from hand sanding and oiling it was time to make the second sepa I'm not going to bore you with too many of the details because it was pretty much the exact same as the first one now that the handle pieces are pretty much finalized it's time to etch the homo into the blade I was mixing together a one to five mixture of ferric chloride to water it's a little bit less concentrated than my one to four but I realized that it actually doesn't matter for hormones I made sure to clean the blade extremely well with just regular dish soap and a sponge and then it went into the mixture for two and a half minutes after the two and a half minutes was over I took it out washed off all of the ferric and then I took it to my hand standing room and I used a 5000 grit sandpaper to wipe off all of those dark oxides but leave the edge spine a lot of times I see homones described as trapped Souls within steel and if you look at this one it really does look like that I decided to do only two cycles of etching and polishing because I think a more subtle hormone on Katana looks a little bit better if it's too much contrast it looks like it's not supposed to be there now that the blade was pretty much finished it was time to polish up all of the handle pieces and get it ready for final Construction Ally I thought I could just use the buffer to do that but it came to my mind that if those buffing threads caught onto the habaki they would throw it across the room and end up breaking it so I switched tactics and began using a really fine surface conditioning belt on the grinder now it's time to hand sand the Purple Heart handle the thing about Purple Heart Is that the higher finish you sand it to the deeper the color will be when you oil it so what I did here is I started at 150 grit I went to 400 grit 600 grit and then I actually think I finished it off at 1500 Grit one of the things about this piece of wood is that I hand picked it so that it would have a lot of those curls the curls are those tight lines that you see that actually look different from different angles after the handle was finished hand sanding it was time to add those flower looking ornaments on top of the handle you know that's actually not bad this is another one of those parts of enma that looks different in every scene in the enemy sometimes it's inset sometimes it's poking out sometimes you see the individual lobes I combine all of them and I was gonna instead it a tiny bit but still have it mostly protruding out of the handle what I was doing here was marking exactly which way I was going to put it on the handle every time so that if I scribe the outside and rotated it around 180 degrees I would know the tool that I'm using here for my very minor inset is just a Dremel micro with some weird Diamond bur I don't know if it was the best option but it was what I had on hand I didn't use epoxy here I used a bunch of super thick cyan acrylite which is an industrial grade super glue I knew that it would hold you're not really going to put any pressure onto this itself like you might touch it a few times but it won't be near enough Force to rip it off to give these flowers a little more depth I used a triangle file and filed away those Corners it would make it sort of look like each of the lobes was round and protruding even more than they were with those fire ornaments completely finished it was time to move back to the Guard the guard at this point was like 90 degrees and if you held it in your hand it would cut into the top of it so I angled my table and ground these really nice chamfers on the side I did not want this guard to dig into the user's hand it's time to move on to the finishing touches enma has these sort of gold rings covering its handle and I think there was supposed to be metal in the anime but the thing is this is another one of those things that looked different in every scene sometimes it was inside into the wood sometimes it was protruding I decided that protruding would be a little bit cooler so I took this golden cord and I wrapped it around the handle in the two positions that I saw it on the katana traditional Katana handles always have silk wrap that look like diamonds but enma doesn't have that and that is another reason that I decided to use this golden cord because I wanted I like working with chord it's really satisfying and I also think it looks really cool all right that looks pretty good so after three long weeks of work and countless failures this build is finally coming to an end I hope you enjoyed watching me build this Katana with all that said I present to you edma [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] now for the final final step is to give this thing an edge the katana was already zero ground but it wasn't technically sharp so I took it to a 3000 grit tricero water stone and I spent half an hour giving this thing its final Edge together yes sir oh my vice is now wet that can cut a limb off okay that's all we need

Channel: Jesse Hu

Views: 782,546

Keywords: blacksmith, jesse hu, jesse hu forged in fire, jhublades, making a katana, making enma, One Piece, One Piece Sword, One Piece Katana, Forging a katana, Cursed katana, sword making, japanese sword, bladesmith, Zoro, Enma, Anime Weapon, Katana Creation, forging anime katana, katana full build, forging, handmade sword, Crafting a katana, hamon

Id: 9k4-3yPN5CU

Length: 47min 3sec (2823 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 13 2023