Making A Knife From Copper And Bandsaw Blades

hey guys welcome back to the shop today's video I'm going be making a band saw blade and copper Chopper I'm going to start off with giving my bandol blades a dip in some muratic acid to get them nice and clean and ready to go into our canister as per standard canister has a white paint spray paint on the inside to keep the inside from sticking to the actual can itself and we're going to use some 1090 powder with 2% nickel the 2% nickel that's in this steel powder is what's going to give it the contrast down the line whenever we etch the knife and don't forget every time you do canister Damascus you need to vibrate the can as much as possible to get that powder all the way in all the nooks and crannies in between the Bol plates and here I'm just going to weld the can shut making sure to intentionally leave a couple of spots open in the weld so that the can can breathe and the gases can flow out as always my first press is always top to bottom make sure everything consolidates in if I start my press sideways I run the risk of popping off those caps so it's always important to start from top to bottom I developed a very aggressive dip in the can you can see it right there as I'm starting to press it and that dip actually creates an issue down the line and the can I can't remove the can like I know normally do I have to uh let it cool down and rip off and I'll just keep working it down making sure everything's nice and Consolidated if you notice those cold spots in the can as I'm working it down that's because the can is starting to detached from the Bon inside and it's uh hitting different temperatures now that my cap is off I'm going to do is slowly work those Corners in trying to release the whole can from after a bit of work you can see that it's essentially loose on the inside as I said earlier in the video I could not get the can to slide out like I normally do because of that dip that it has on the inside so I'm left with no other option than to let it cool down and cut the cap off normally but the inside contents are completely separated from the can and I consider that a very good Forge weld and with the side of the K off the Billet comes out nice and easy from here my goal is to work it down to be about an inch by an inch and I'm just going to slowly work it down so that I can twist it these are my uh 1in squaring dieses and here I'm hitting it it with my 1in square and dice making sure I get nice even and consistent bar all the way through that way I can go on ahead and give it a Twist to add more character to it before I can twist it though I have to knock down all the corners get in more octagonal or maybe even trying to get it as cylindrical as possible so that none of the corners try to Shear when I twist it and here I'm going to start my twist [Music] twisting a 1in bar is not as fun as it looks it takes quite a bit of force and you got to make sure your bar is very very very hot if not that thing will not budge at all but eventually I got it as tight as I could get it and I'm pretty happy with the end result and here I'm just going to try to straighten it up a little bit before I go and flatten it under my press and here I'm just working it down getting to about a consistent one quarter all the way through that way I can use it for my outside cladding on my [Music] knife you can really see that grain starting to pop out in there through that Forge scale looks really really [Music] cool [Music] and here are my layers Bol blade copper and with a steel core of adcr V2 one of the things that I dislike about doing copper layered knives is all the welding have to do whenever I go and prep my copper Billet I have to weld all the way around the knife and basically make sure that if I do overheat my knife I have welding to make sure it doesn't splatter out everywhere which really it takes it takes a while because copper does not weld so you kind of have to weld over it it's a pain but it gives you a very very nice result and here I'm just slowly pressing working it down making sure I don't rip it apart and making sure I keep consistent heat throughout the knife roughly making sure I do not go over 19900 de because at that point the copper starts to melt and it gets more difficult the thinner I [Music] go if I'm not mistaken I get a little too hot here and I have a little bit of copper St melting out but it wasn't a big [Applause] deal and now that the buet is cut and ready I'm just going to slowly work it down with the 2x 72 what I'm looking for here is to grind off all the mouth steel all the welding that I did and expose the copper and the core and everything so I'm just going to slowly take it and make sure that I have the copper explode through out the entire knife here I run into a very pleasant surprise as I'm trying to drill in my pin holes and this drill bit does absolutely nothing to this knife so I have to anneal it so hopefully I can drill through it and here I'm in the Forge an kneeling it and after a very tedious analing process it cuts like butter and I get through my three pins in record time now here we're not going to judge I did not do anything else throughout the entire day so I came out in sandals and heat treated the knife threw it in the oven and that's basically all I did that day so I didn't worry about putting on shoes and here we are out of the temper and now I have shoes on since I didn't do much grinding prior to the heat treat process uh got a little bit of a warp so I decided I'm just going to put it on the surface grinder and just take off all the material until I get a nice clean surface now that I have my knife prepped I'm going to start slowly working it down trying to expose the core and work down the sides now that the sides are exposed I'm going to go in with a 1in attachment wheel and I'm going to clean up that finger toil that way my finger sits in there nice and comfortably since this is more of a chopper and less of a kitchen knife I'm going with paduk I really like to use do because it gets a nice beautiful red vibrant color the only issue with it is that I don't have it in stabilized form I just have it in it's raw wood form so hopefully down the line once I can get my hands on some stabilizing equipment I can use this more often in my knife builds specifically in my kitchen knife builds because I really do love the look of PUK wood and here I'm trying something I don't really do I'm using my portal band to cut it because uh my other band saw had stuff on it and I didn't feel like moving it and I wanted to see if it cuts it very well I normally just cut steel here but I figure if it can cut steel it can cut wood and it did a pretty good job at it sorry for the shakiness on the camera I guess it was touching the drill press and it vibrated and I didn't know until I edited so yeah my bad and here we're back on the portan and like I said it does pretty good work of this wood and this is a hard wood it does not cut very easily so I might be using this guy more often or I might buy another one and put a more woodworking blade on it cuz it worked pretty well it takes up not too much space in the shop as you noticed on some of my previous knives I do hidden pins but since this is a chopper I decided that I was going to make my pins go all the way through it gives a better mechanical hold and I believe it'll add extra toughness to the overall Construction and here I'm just grinding down the wood a little bit not quite all the way to the steel but making the Gap just enough so I don't get too much of a pull of epoxy whenever I glue it up and we hand sand yay this is fer chloride it's the acid that I use to etch my knives keep it on one gallon jug to the side and on most of my knives that are small enough I like to just pour it into this one gon pitcher and I just put it in there and it's easy to put it back in and store it afterwards and this is the part where I ask you to like comment and subscribe if you like cool builds like this cuz I mean look at that thing isn't it gorgeous don't you just want to subscribe to my Channel and watch all my videos and all that good stuff if you do decide to subscribe it'll help me buy more coffee so I can transform these knives into the cooler versions other than just regular etching them because that dark on the Damascus is beautiful and here's your standard procedure going to glue up my handle and while I'm doing this for any of my regular viewers that watch my videos when they come out not the people that watch it 3 four five weeks after or maybe you too I probably won't be posting any videos in the next week or two cuz I'm going to be concentrating 100% on my Viking Challenge build so yeah content will be dry for about two or three weeks but hopefully we'll get back to schedule and I can provide you guys with an awesome build I have very cool things planned and hopefully they all work out and I don't just end up scrapping the Billet and doing something entirely different last minute and here I'm just going to clean off all the epoxy all the way around the knife whenever you're grinding your knife getting all the epoxy off good rule of thumb is if you see Sparks it's pretty clean and here I'm just going to start slowly grinding in my shape for my handle in this case I'm going to do a bit of a coke bottle and I'm just using the pin as reference so that I can get two even sides now that I have both those sides done I'm going to start working in that little area where your fingers go into I do not know what it's called but that thing normally I use a small wheel to do that but this time since I already have the rest plate on there I want to see if I can do it with just the edge of the platin and it comes out kind of ugly but it gets the job done I probably won't do it like that again but it gets the job done it just causes a lot more hands handing down the line and here I'm just blending in all my lines getting it ready for a nice quick easy hand sand which I do not record because just hand sanding is boring so we're going to skip over to that and get to sharpening our knife here I'm using a 240 grit belt to sharpen the knife I have to be very careful not to damage my Edge or overheat it I am running my 2x 72 grinder at about a 25 30% that way it doesn't get the knife too hot and I'm going back and forth making sure I develop a nice good bur so that I can work it down afterwards I switch over to a 1200 git belt and I'm doing the same thing just I'm slowly carefully working it back and forth making sure to thin down that edge thin down that bur so I get a nice clean Cutting Edge afterwards I take it to a STP which I don't show here but always drop at the end make sure your B is off so you get a nice clean Cutting Edge and here we have a final look at the knife and all of its beauty I really like to use that AC rv2 or maybe some 1095 in my core because once I coffee etch it it gets a real beautiful dark black that the 52100 that I've been using recently doesn't quite get I'm also very happy with the look of the banda blades it has a lot lot of movement in it because it's just a whole bunch of random bandw blades and a canister and paired up with that copper it looks absolutely gorgeous it almost looks kind of like rot iron with all those waves through it and stuff overall great build and as always I appreciate you guys and I will catch you in the next one peace

Channel: JP's Bladeworks

Views: 264,605

Keywords: knife making, forging, cu mai, how to make a knife, making a knife, knife making for beginners, copper knife, jpsbladeworks, forging a knife, canister damascus, Chef knife, making a chef knife, Bandsaw blade damascus, bandsaw blade, knifemaking

Id: 0I8R0xAZt-I

Length: 17min 21sec (1041 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 21 2024