STEP BY STEP How to Screen Print Simulated Spot Process Full Tutorial - Anatol Titan Automatic Press

I'm going to show you step-by-step how we screen   print t-shirts with simulated or spot  process and we're starting right now so the first thing we have to do is we have  to coat our screens with the emulsion this   is a 23 by 31 screen with 230 mesh what that  just means is there are 230 fibers per inch   we're going to use this on our automatic  machine however you can do this manually   but you will need a 20 by 24 screen we're  not going to use these or do it manually   because we do have a hundred t-shirts to do  so let's go ahead and coat the bigger screens our screens are all coated I put our emulsion  away washed out or scooped coder now it's time   to go to computer and do some separations while  our screens are drying I'm going to open up the   artwork our client sent to us in Adobe Photoshop  I'm going to open the image to scale and our   largest print size that we can do is 12.5 inches  wide which gives us 14 point seven five inches   high I'm gonna make sure it's 300 dpi and I want  to open it in RGB color mode now that our art is   open I'm going to use action steps this video is  brought to you by us action steps is actually a   set of actions that I created to quickly separate  artwork such as this so the first thing I'm going   to do is I'm going because this is going on a  black t-shirt I'm just going to put this on a   black background and I'm going to select layer one  and I'm just gonna hit command eat a flattened app   and I'm gonna go over to channels and the first  thing I'm going to do is hit proof window up here   at the top what that basically does is essentially  what that does is it gives you a second window to   kind of prove side by side your separations just  to see how well they are coming out so I'm going   to go to window arrange to a vertical and then I'm  gonna select this window here the one that doesn't   say proof window now I'm going to scroll down  and click on black t-shirt art our separations   are all finished they look pretty good there are  a couple little tweaks that I'm going to do with   any separation software you are going to have  to tweak it just a little bit so what I'm going   to do is just kind of pump up the red just a  little bit and then give myself a designated   brown spot color here and also get rid of the  colors that I don't necessarily need say for   instance green by turning green off we're really  not seeing any change you know if I were to turn   the red off obviously you see a change there so  I'm gonna go through and delete the spot colors   that I do not need and I can simply do that by  scrolling down here and clicking on merged green   I'm also going to merge the magenta because  there really isn't any magenta in here and by   merging the magenta what will do is if there is  any information it will apply it to our red spot   color now we have a cyan spot in a blue spot there  is just this tiny little bit here and also in the   helmet of the driver right here I'm going to go  ahead and merge because this looks more like cyan   to me than it does blue so I'm going to click  on merge blue we're looking pretty good here   again I want to bump up this red just a little  bit so I'm going to hold down command and click   over my red channel that will bring up my red  selection then I'm going to go to my white base   and really what's going on here is the white  base where should be a bright red we need to   make this right here 100% whites that way it's  a nice bright red and I'm going to do that by   selecting the white base hitting command l and  I'm going to grab my black selector here click   right in that red and I'm going to slide back my  grayscale slider here so that way I can when I did   make the the white brighter I also add it to some  of these areas and I want it to look like that so   this should be some of the black t-shirt showing  through with a little bit of the red turn it over   it alright that looks good to me the next thing  I'm going to do is generate a brown because this   brown just isn't as bright as this Brown over  here so I'm going to scroll down to where it   says create brown okay we have our Brown created  we've gotten rid of any extra spot colors that   we don't need and we're ready to save this for  output what I'm going to do next is go over here   to where it says black t-shirt EPS I'm going to  click on that and it will prepare the files that   way and just go ahead and save it as an EPS file  and then we'll bring it into illustrator we have   our registration template opened up we'll have  a link down in the description for both this   template and for the action steps we like helping  fellow screen printers and artists and this will   help us as well that way we can continue to make  videos like this I'm going to go over to my layers   and I'm going to command shifty I'm gonna fly my  artwork here's our EPS file that we just created   I'm gonna double click on it now what that did  is it brought in all of our spot colors so I'm   just gonna click it and put it on the artboard at  full size and here are all of our spot colors this   is our print order that we will go in our white  base red yellow cyan gray white brown I think   Brown will probably put before the white I like  to print the white last and then I'm just gonna   line this up to my artboard I'm gonna drag my  art layer down below my center and registration   marks that way I can see my registration marks  it looks like we just kind of need to move those   out of the way just a little bit so I'm going  to unlock those lock my art layer and I'm just   gonna drag them out of the way we're gonna save  that file we're pretty much all set I'm gonna   hit command P which brings up our print dialog box  I'm gonna go to output and you'll see we have our   spot colors here ready to go and it looks like we  have seven total screens that will be printing out   if you have a rip software you'll want to set  your LPI to 45 and your angle to 22.5 your dot   doesn't really matter a whole lot I tend to like  to use round but ellipse works just as well let's   go ahead and hit print and put some film in or  pre he's probably saying to yourself but Matt I   don't have a rip software oh that's okay because  I have you covered with action steps let me show   you how to rip your separations in action steps  next thing we're going to do is we're gonna set   our LPI our dot pattern for artwork we're using  230 mesh screens which 45 LPI will work just great   so I'm gonna click on 45 LPI and hit continue and  then I'm going to click merge steps now so that's   how you could easily go about creating your own  half-tones within Photoshop with action steps I'm   now going to go to file and print you'll want to  select your printer in our case we have an Epson   1430 and you're going to want to click separations  make sure your printer is set to the correct size   we are using 13 by 19 film so we're good there  and you'll want to scroll down here to the bottom   where it says printing mark and what we'll do  is we'll select the registration marks and then   the center crop marks and we can include that on  every piece of films that way we can register up   our separations on breasts you will at least  need photoshop I'll leave a link down in the   description that way you can get photoshop and it  will take a little bit of a commissioner away that   way we can continue to do videos like these for  you guys but let's get to the film now that I have   my film done I cleaned the exposure unit just to  get any dust off of the glass you don't want any   dust or dirt on the glass because that will lead  to little pinholes in your print I'm sure we'll   run into some that sometimes it's unavoidable and  we'll show you that once we get set up but let's   go ahead and take our screens because they're nice  and dry now and we'll expose this film I'm going   to place my art spawn to the screen this is the  t-shirt side of the screen so you're going to see   your image reverse once we flip the correct way  the side that you put ink in it'll read correctly   with our particular set up with 23 by 31 screens  I Center up my art 11 a half inches this way and   for our particular press it's going to be 5 inches  down and I just want to make sure my center marks   are nice and square with the screen so now I'm  just going to take a little bit of scotch tape I'm going to tape my film down I'm going to  flip the screen around that way the film is   on the bottom side where the shirt would go the  lights going to shine up this vacuum tabletop   what it will do it's completely sandwich that  film together it's that way no light can get   around it and that's how we get our half tones  and just an image exposed in general so with our   teasing emulsion with a multi bulb fluorescent  tube exposure unit like this I'm going to set my   time to about three minutes and burn the image  while this image is exposing what I'm going to   do is grab a screen out of the cabinet and start  setting up my next image that way it'll be ready   to go once this finishes alright our image is nice  and exposed let's go over to the washout booth and   I'll show you how to rinse out half tones first  thing I'm going to do is just remove my film and   I'm going to take my water hose with just the  standard pressure coming from lines and I'm   just going to rinse the front and back repeatedly  back and forth for about a good 10 to 15 seconds essentially what that does why I like to do  it this way is it keeps both the front and   back wet so that way your image will fall  out evenly if you just spray it on one side   and a little bit on the other side you'll  notice that it won't fall out as even all   right you can see our image is starting to  the wash out what I'm going to do is just   take my water hose and just lightly kind  of rinse it I'm going to get right up on   it with this particular emulsion the half-tones  hold really well and they wash out fairly easy I want to be sure to get my registration marks  and just make sure every little halftone rinsed   out that should be rinsed out all right we're  looking pretty good one of the things you can   do is take your film compare the image to  make sure you're not missing anything looks   like we're good to go going to flip the screen  around and then I'm going to just kind of give   it a little bit of a sheet of water to kind of  rent some of this underexposed emulsion on this   side because the light tends to get to the back  side or the side that has your ink it will take   longer for it to get to that and therefore it'll  be a little softer you'll notice that it does have   a little bit of film so I'm just gonna rinse  some that film back and I'm kind of pointing   the water hose down so that way I'm not pushing  this way forcing my little dots out of the mesh although again this emulsion does a really  good job of holding those half-tones and   them not washing out all right that about  does it what I'm going to do is take this   and then I'm going to set it outside let  the Sun post carrot it will harden it a   little more and it will dry it a little faster  and then we'll move on to some other screens my next screen is ready to go we taped it up  while the other was exposing a little bit of a   pro tip is while you're working on one screen you  can be working on the other so for example while   this one is exposing just for demonstrations  sake I did not do that just so I could show   you all how to rinse out the image but while  I was rinsing that one out this one could have   been in the exposure unit exposing by the time  I get that one finished rinsing out this one   will be ready to go and I'll have the other one  set up I could put it in the exposure unit and   start rinsing out the exposed screen so let's  go ahead and do that and I'll demonstrate this something I get asked often is Matt I thought  you aren't supposed to get the screens out in   the sunlight well with this emulsion it's not  that big of a deal if you have a darkroom that   is ideal we do store our screens in our cabinet  where it's nice and dark and only bring them out   into the sunlight for just a moment and it's  not going to hurt anything it will start to   expose it just a touch but with this emulsion  is slow exposing therefore it's more forgiving   so we're able to do that just thought I'd let  you know that I just finished exposing my last   screen what I'm going to do is I'm gonna set it  outside I'm gonna let these dry in the meantime   I'm going to go ahead and pull aside my inks and  my squeegee does that need to do the job once   the screens are dry go ahead and start setting  things up I have my inks and squeegees all set   aside so what we have here is a will flex white  as a low bleed white works really great then we   have a c8 cool gray we have just the brightest  red off of our shelf somewhat of a cyan sky-blue   lemon yellow and then we have a Sienna Brown  these are all just standard off-the-shelf inks   with the exception of the CA cool grey which  will work really great with action cells or   any other separation software you decide to use  as you can see I got my squeegee set up at their   approximate stations the first thing we're going  to do is we are going to do our white base you're   going to flash it and then we're gonna use a  flattening screen in which I'll leave a card   up at the top on how to make one of these this  will help get the print nice and smooth that's   basically a screen with a Teflon sheet and a  little bit of reducer I'm still experimenting   with that then we'll have our light blue or brown  or red yellow gray and then white again if you're   on a manual press you won't have to really  worry about setting your squeegees up like   we did over here but you will need to print them  in order generally your red is gonna go before   your yellow and then your greens your blues your  purples your gray and then your white screens   are all nice and dry so I'm going to bring them  all in and we'll go ahead and set up the press we have our screens all in place I have my  machine on if you're on a manual you'll just   set them up in order just similar to what you  would do on an automatic the only difference   here is that on a manual press you'll be pulling  the squeegees by hand now what I'm going to do is   I'm going to line up or register up my first  screen which is the white base to the center   line in our palette here so I'm just going to  move my pallet over that has a center line and   I am going to go ahead and raise the table up  on this machine if you're on a manual you'll   just lower your screen down on to one of your  stations with a center line drawn so let's go   ahead and do that and then we'll put some ink  into the screen and we'll test print that white   thanks I'll put some ink into the screen do a  test print will flash that and we'll use those   registration marks you saw on the template to  register the rest of the screens up so let's go   ahead and do that I have both Center marks here  at the top and at the bottom of my screen I'm   just lining these Center marks up with these  Center marks on my pallet and that will make   sure our graphic is nice and straight and I'm  also during this time going to make sure that   my graphic isn't too high up alright that looks  good to me so I'm going to go ahead and lock this   down what you want to do with your inks before  you toss them into the screen as you do want   to just kind of stir your inks up really well and  that will kind of help loosen the ink up that way   it'll flow through the screen a little easier  especially with this white whites tend to be   a little thicker but by doing this it'll make  it kind of flow through the screen like butter you also want to be sure to put a generous amount  of ink into your screen and you don't want to   mash the ink down into your graphic because it  can give you a little bit of false readings a   little bit of a pro tip for you before we do  our test print what we have to do is we have   to put down a little bit of PAL adhesive what I  like to use is a spreadable pallet adhesive it's   water-based I'll leave a link down below what I'm  going to do essentially is just send this over to   my flash I'm gonna flash it's that way this dries  and becomes tacky and then we'll use a test pellon   to do our initial test print on and register off  so I'm just gonna set the Machine up so that way   it sends it over to our flash or flashes on if  you're using a manual you'll have to let your   flash heat up unless you have a course unit kind  of like what we have here on the automatic press   and I am just going to send this over let it do  its warming up process okay everything's nice and   warm and tacked up so what I'm going to do now is  take my test pellon I'll leave a link down in the   description where you can find these they're  pretty affordable rather than using t-shirts   although sometimes we use t-shirts but in this  case I happen to have some test Pell ons I'm going   to send this over to station number one and we're  gonna go ahead and do our test print and flashes we're looking pretty good it's nice and flashed  one of the things you'll notice about these test   felons they do tend to shrink up a little bit  wherever the print is not it's not gonna be too   much of an issue this little registration mark  is wanting to come up some but that shouldn't   hold us back too much now what I'm going to do  is send this to each one of the stations and I'm   going to register everything up to these marks  here and then we'll do some test prints with   each of the colors and real quick before I do  that I do not advise moving your your pallets   rotating it your carousel however you want to put  it with your hands what you want to do is press on   your opposing pallets that way you're not shifting  anything over here during the registration process all right well I got you guys in here for close-up  these are the registration marks here that I was   talking about we're just lining those up in all  four corners and also our center marks here but   also more importantly you want to see how your  artwork is lining up to your your underbase   because sometimes these registration marks can  contract in not all the time but if nothing has   shifted these registration marks will definitely  help tell you which way you need to move your   screen up-down left-right you know if you need to  angle it a little bit so we're looking pretty good   sometimes when you go to locking your screens  which I'm gonna go ahead and do that now things   can move just a little bit depending on your press  but you can also fine-tune things if you have the   ability to do that with micro registration which  this press does have micro registration so we're   gonna use that to really dial things in and get  everything spot-on because you can be off just   by a hair and you'll see that white base peak  out all right that looks pretty good so I'm   going to completely lock it down now what I'm  going to do is I'm going to go around to each   station register up the rest of my screens and  then we'll toss in our squeegees along with the   I've got my eight set up in each of the stations  obviously we have the base already there here's   our flattening screen and then head number four  we have a light blue head number five we have   our Sienna Brown number six we have our red  number seven we have our yellow eight we have   our gray and last but not lease on head number  nine have our wife now that our ink is all set   in place what I'm going to do is this essentially  is just clear vinyl sticker transfer tape and I   like to use this to do my test prints on top of  now I'm going to show you two different methods   I'll leave a link down in the description  where you can find some of this but this is   essentially just clear transfer tape for vinyl  stickers and I'm going to place this over my   graphic one of the ways I'm going to or one of  the methods that I'm going to demonstrate here   alright so we essentially laid this down over  and it will act as a dry erase board but the   first method I'm going to do is I'm going to go  ahead and print all of my colors aside from the   white base I'm not going to flash it I'm going  to print all my colors on top of this and that   will allow me to see how far off or on they are  and what adjustments I need to make sometimes   all I'll do that and then I'll go back wipe it  down and go to a screen that happens to be a   problem let's say the red happens to be an issue  I can go back in print just the red down adjust   my micro registration till it's spot-on and then  move on to an actual production sample but let's   go ahead and run this off I'm going to turn all  of my stations on that other colors that I want   to print down and we'll follow this palette around  as it comes all the way around and we'll see how   we did all right I got everything active that  I want active and we'll just go ahead and send   this thing around and we'll follow so normally  we'll do the white base twice just to clear it when we turn the delay off here and so  it would have flashed and then done the   flattening screen here we go with arrow blue  with all these colors guys we're just going   to do them once see this one did not go all  the way back so I need to make an adjustment   there but we're just hitting these once  because we don't want to put down too much   ink during the production run we're going  to do this one hit as well we might do it   twice on certain colors just to pump those  up but for now we're just doing one hit and we're allowing some of that ink to build up on   the back of the screens we don't  leave the flash with spot process look at that right off the bat we are looking  pretty good obviously my Brown isn't down here   where it needs to be because I needed to just the  station over there but if you're on a manual press   you won't have mistakes like this happen and you  probably might be just about ready to take these   marks off however I am going to go back and tweak  this a little bit because the red is off just   a hair there so I need to move the whole screen  down and I think everything else looks pretty good yeah I think that's the only adjustment that  we're really going to do is we're going to move   that red down just a little bit so I'm going  to go ahead and wipe this off we'll go over to   our red station whichever station is that and  I'll demonstrate the other method registering   up each one of your screens but with just that  one red screen this would be a whole lot longer   if I went through and showed you an example on  each wonderful so you're gonna need yourself a   rag t-shirt and I am just going to wipe all of  this ink off and I will send this over to our   red stations here we are at station number five  we have our test pail on underneath our station   if you're on a manual press you won't have to do  all this walking around so that makes your setup   just that much easier so I'm going to go ahead  and do a test print on number five I forgot in   the process just whether I needed to move it up  or down so I'm gonna I'm printing that again so   that way I can take a look at it so we need to go  down just the hair I'm going to go ahead and wipe   this up sorry belt bumping the camera I got you  guys right in my workspace so that way you guys   can see exactly how I do this stuff that's  good enough so what I'm going to do is I'm   going to unlock my micro registration and we're  going move the entire print down some and so I   got my little crosshairs here with our micro  registration and I'm just going to move that   down just a touch alright that's good and you  don't want to overshoot it just want to do it   hair by hair really got everything locked down  let's go ahead and give it another whirl again   we're still doing it just one hit at a time more  likely that's how production will go okay I think   we are on the money now that we have that finished  what I'm going to do is I'm going to put a fresh   test pail on down and we're going to print the  white base flash it let it go through its entire   process and print off some samples or test prints  and we may need to do that two three four times   before everything settles in and is looking great  because if you don't do that you start printing   your clients shirts shirt one through six might  just drastically change and by the time you get   to shirt number seven don't be how it should be so  let's go ahead and run out some tests for X first all right so that is looking pretty awesome  pretty happy with how the registration is   coming out I let see any white  peeking out where it shouldn't looking pretty good and you can see the  registration looks awesome even though   it might appear that one of the colors are  slightly off that said again that TISCO I'm   just kind of shrinking up so use your art is the  guy does look like the brown because remember we   didn't completely print the brown but that Brown  should come towards me just a little bit aside   from that I'm happy with it and we'll just run  off more tests right there test print and we   are dialed in this thing is looking good I don't  think I need to do any more test prints now at   this point what I'm going to do is tape off these  registration marks and find eating little pinholes   and that essentially is just ink and spots where  it shouldn't be and I'm going to fix that by just   taping around the screen and that will be the  easiest solution so let's go ahead and do that now that we're finished taping everything off  what I'm going to do is remove this test Bell   on and as you can see this thing it's just  sticking it's my pallet I'm going to come   back and get the rest that off before I go into  production but what I'm going to use is one of   the actual production shirts and I'm just going  to make sure that I haven't missed any pinholes   I think I'm pretty good but rather than finding  out if you're on an automatic you want to find   out six eight ten t-shirts later so I'm going to  run this one off as a full production sample or   full production piece and we'll see how it comes  out who's getting hot in here so we have our test   print ready to go or our actual production  sample first thing I have to do is turn on   my conveyor dryer let things start warming up and  in the meantime I'm going to in the meantime I'm   going to let all the pallets warm up you want to  warm up your pallets put some fresh tack down so   that way those t-shirts do not move also by  warming the pallets up it'll make production   a little bit faster so I'm going to warm both  the oven and pallets up toss in a little bit   more ink and collect my shirts now that I got  some shirts over here the dryers warming up I   got my press loaded up with some ink what I'm  going to do now is put my press into warm-up   mode now if you're on a manual what you want  to do is just rotate your pallets underneath   the flash and let them sit for a moment with our  press it has a warm-up option while it's warming   up I'm going to use spray bottle with some water  a scrub brush and my palette adhesive I'm gonna   remove some of the old pallet adhesive put some  fresh pallet adhesive down that way and they're   nice and tacky nothing moves our registration  stays spot-on and I can do that wall everything   is warming up and the press is rotating so  let me go ahead and allow me to demonstrate someone's gonna spray a little water on this first  run I'm essentially just getting off some excess   excess tack and then we'll go down and put some  fresh tack onto the pallets and it's just about   time to change this pallet tape out because we've  done a lot of shirts on them and have misprinted   quite a bit onto the board so if that happens to  you know that that happens to us as well not into   the world and these pallets might warm up pretty  quick because it is quite hot today for it being   April feels like it's in the 90s the mid 90s I'm  gonna stop this just for one second because we do   have this one little spot worm my pillow unstuck  so I'm gonna scrub that off get that out the way   so our pallet is nice and smooth and our prints  will turn out nice and smooth as well you have   any crap on your pallets it's going to show up on  your prints all right let's go ahead and continue   that now at this point what I'm going to do is  I'm going to put some pallet adhesive down and   it will flash this pallet tack and warm it  up as well essentially just gonna dry it out   kind of killing two birds with one stone if you  know what I mean all right it's starting to look   like we got enough tack down just want to make  sure underneath my print area everywhere there's   enough tack keep this thing from moving and I  think we achieved that all right everything's   nice and warmed up pallets are warm the conveyor  is warm I made sure to check my temperature make   sure it's getting to about 340 degrees now comes  the fun part let's go ahead and get to production well that should do it for this  tutorial I hope it helped out a   lot in your journey learning to screen  print spot process or simulated process   if you have any questions let us know  down in the comments give this video a   thumbs up be sure to share subscribe if you  have it until next time we'll see you later

Channel: Mikey Designs & Silk Screen

Views: 373,883

Rating: 4.9154534 out of 5

Keywords: how to screen print, screen printing, silkscreening, silk screen, silkscreen, t-shirt printing, t shirt printing, tee shirt printing, how to, how to print shirts, how to screen print shirts, STEP BY STEP How to Screen Print Simulated Spot Process Full Tutorial - Anatol Titan Automatic Press, spot process, simulated process, spot process tutorial, step by step, simulated process tutorial, diy, how to print your own shirts, Anatol titan, automatic press

Id: 2qWvqKNNMes

Length: 37min 9sec (2229 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 17 2020