How to Screen Print Simulated Spot Process Step by Step Full Tutorial

By a special request I'm going to show you step-by-step how to screen print spot or simulated process coming up okay all of my screens are a 230 mesh I'm using you lando TZ emulsion I'll leave a link down the scripts in where you can grab this and I am going to use the sharp side of my scooped coder and I'm going to coat my screens one-on-one I'm gonna do the garment side players and the side net now I'm going to set it in the drying rack like this that what the emulsion is pulled down by gravity and I'm going to repeat that for the rest of the screens is going now that I'm finished with my emulsion I'm going to put the remaining motion back in the bucket now I'm gonna take this over to the wash out for this and just give it a good rinse okay while our screens are drying here is the artwork that we are going to print this was a little design that I put together I'll leave a card up at the tops that way you guys can take a look at the tutorial and how I design that so the artwork is flattened the image size is to print size it is 12 by 15 at 200 dpi anywhere from 200 to 300 dpi is great 200 will save you a little bit of file space so we're going to bring this over to separation studio I'm going to open that up real quick okay here is the image that we are using I am and I am in separation studio and as you can see here it basically breaks it down to about 9 different colors some of these colors we will not use for example there's no information on the green but we're going to go to the proof-positive here and we are going to go to channels we're going to merge the purple and we are going to merge the turquoise we are going to see what is on the green doesn't look like there's anything there nothing to get excited about so I'm just going to delete that and now we're down to six colors our pres has six colors so that's absolutely perfect I'm going to hit Auto adjust here I'm just going to make these Reds really bright some of these yellows and these whites bright as well so we're good to go on that in our artwork is all separated out I'm going to go ahead and save this as an EPS which generally it just does save it as an EPS I'm going to save this to the desktop for the sake of this tutorial and going back looking at each of these layers you can see all the colors that is involved in creating this design let me go back to my ink view so this is our white our white base this is our red this is our blue our gold our gray and then our white top or white highlights so now that that saved out I'm going to bring this into my template which I'll leave a link down in the description as to where you can buy this template from us it's ready to go so you don't have to fuss with the template has registration marks and all that which all these registration marks will show up on every single one of these spot colors so here is our artwork I'm going to place it on my art layer here and then I'm just going to Center or line it it looks a little goofy here that's because this will be going on a black t-shirt if I jump back over to separation studio you can see that my ground color is black so whatever's black in here is actually going to be the t-shirt showing through now I'm going to bring this layer down because it is a pretty big print I'm gonna lock my art layer and then I'm going to move my registration and center marks up and down a couple moves couple two or three moves just get it out of the artwork okay so now that's ready to go I'm hit command P to print and when I go to output we have separations all selected here and with separation studio it basically brought in all the spot colors we have our our white base red blue gold gray and white it gives you the number and what sequence you need to print us at so we'll do the white base first flash that and then we're gonna do the rest of colors wet-on-wet the red the blue and the gold grains and the white in that sequence and you can see over here when I brought the art and it did bring in all these spot colors so I'm going to go ahead and make sure that we're only printing those six spot colors so I'm gonna go ahead and hit print and we'll show you the film coming up and before I get too far ahead of myself I am using accurate black pearl that is what we are sending it to so it's sending the art over to accurate black pearl which sends it to our Epson 1430 the settings that we are using is 45 LPI and we're using 230 mesh screens okay our first piece of film is coming out and here it is finishing up you can see the little half pounds in this design and now all we have to do is wait for our other five piece of the film to come out while these films are printing out the screens are drying once the films are finished the screen should just about be dry and then we'll go to the exposure unit okay all of our films are finished all six are out put the film that we use here is 13 by 19 waterproof inkjet film they cost around 57 cents apiece I'll leave a link down a description where you guys can get that and save yourself a little bit of money on film okay our film is all finished let's see if our screens are dry they look dry to me so let's grab our film and expose all six of these screens let's do it okay here's the first screen that we're going to expose let's go ahead and do our white base first you want to make sure you do the tacky side down so I'm just going to Center that up in the middle of my screen and it takes some scotch tape just secure that down we're going to flip this over going to lock our exposure unit lid down I think I'll set this one at about 310 and hopes that we can retain some of those smaller details make sure I hit enter turn my vacuum on and then I'm going to expose it once this screen that's finished exposing I'm going to take it stick it in the washout booth grab another screen and a piece of film stick it on the exposure unit start the exposure process and then I'm going to wash out the current screen that's exposing what that will do is speed up the process and you can wash it out a screen while the other screen is exposing a little bit of a tip for you what that way when the emotions go out it will fall out evenly that way you're not watching out your halftone now starting to fall out and the new credit one now I'm going to give it a quiz but on the outer edge just to let water kind of she's down and rinse away any of the unexposed emulsion or emulsion that I just rinsed out now we're going to take this and set it in the Sun let it dry and then we're gonna rinse and repeat literally I'm gonna set this thing in the Sun and let it post Harden and it also will help it dry a little faster another little quick tip for you pull up and today one of the things you want to do with spot process is be sure to check your film and compare it to your screen looks great let's proceed the things you want to be sure to do is include the name of the color and your output on your film that way you have it in your screen and it will make setting up your job that much easier be sure to check your glass after every exposure and make sure it is clean if you need to take some more Windex and paper towel and wipe it down so that way you don't end up with pinholes and your screens okay I just washed out the last expose image on our screen so I'm gonna set it out into the Sun let them dry as soon as those are finished drying we're gonna go on press and get these out today so let's do it the inks that we will be using for this job it's just a standard red a mono blue a golden yellow gray which this grey is a will Flex spot process cool grey but I ran out of that long time ago and I just made a custom mix that was similar to it it don't have to be spot-on guys and then we're going to use our standard will Flex epic amazing bright white underbase and white highlight or white top quick a little tip you do not have to have these spot colors that are associated with separation studio the only time I really use the spot colors is when I'm doing some sort of flesh tones everything else I use whatever color I feel like putting in there that way I can make it a bright blue a bright red a bright yellow of right turquoise where the case may be you do not have to have the spot colors that separation studio says that you need experiment with it a little bit with you what I'm doing at this moment is preheating my palate and they're not going to put a test t-shirt on it do my first print register the rest of my screens off of it and ink them up once I feel that the registration is pretty spot-on run my test print see how it looks with simulated process you have to do a handful of test prints before it really starts working out correctly what I like to do is take my white base lie on my screen up with my center marks that I have drawn on the pallet I use my Center marks from the template that I have created which you guys can go and grab I've Center my screen here make sure my center lines are nice and centered nothing lock that down give a little bit of wiggle looks like it move just a touch I'm gonna use my micro registration get back to where it needs to be make sure everything is nice tight so it doesn't move during the printing process now I'm going to eat my street always be sure to stir your ink up really well that way it will kind of help loosen it up kind of break down those molecules a little bit and then I'm going to take a healthy amount and load my screen up making sure I'm not pressing the ink in the image area now what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a blank t-shirt the test t-shirt you can use a test pal on hell on or whatever it's called however I happen to have this shirt laying around sometimes we get extra shirts because sometimes we just need to order a couple extra shirts in order to meet that $200 mark did get free shipping so I got my test shirt loaded up I'm going to flood my screen this is my white base and I'm gonna give it about two or three good solid hits one flood two or three good solid hits just to completely clear the mesh here is our white base so now I'm going to go ahead and flash this base and then we're gonna come back and register the rest of the screens up based on these registration marks now that everything is nice and flash I'm gonna take my finger make sure my registration marks are cool now I'm gonna take each one of these screens and go through and line up my registration marks in each one of my screens and make sure everything is nice and registered up so you find your way back okay I'm pretty happy with how all these screens are looking let's go ahead and ink them up and run some tests friends okay have my screens all inked up now what I'm going to do is I'm just going to flood each of these screens and then do a good solid push print on each one of these and then we'll see where these marks all line up and how things are starting to look keep in mind that you will have to do maybe three four five sometimes six four things we'll start looking right there's our first hit of red I'm gonna do these wet-on-wet our first hit of blue per city yellow first to the gray now we're going to do our white on top okay so here's our first little test print obviously it's looking a little faded however it will start to look better as we do more and more test prints so what I'm looking at is my registration marks and they look pretty good I don't think I'm going to make any changes I'm gonna roll with it as this I'll get a little bit of a close-up as you can see our registration marks are looking fairly spot-on let's go check these out down towards the bottom air things pretty bang on you see it is looking a little faded and the reason being is that was our first time around so some of the egg is picking up on the back of the screen as we do more test prints you can get the true amount of beat the possibly on to the shirt some of these colors will start to mix a little more you'll see somewhat of a change here a little bit you can see not the the red and completely wasn't clearing the screen I like to play it on the safe side and just do one hits that way I'm not putting down too much ink and closing up some of those dots that don't need to be closed up so let's go ahead and do some more test brings I went ahead and flash this so nothing coming up let's take this shirt when you turn it around going to take my white bass and guys keep in mind as you are handling these screens you just want to do it fairly gently you don't want to whip the screens back and forth you can knock them out of registration so I'm going to go ahead and let this up give it a couple two or three hits so it clears you also notice some of these tiny little dots will start showing up that haven't been there before I'm going to go ahead and slash this real quick looks like we're all nice and flashed now let's go through the process again I'm going to flood my red give it a good solid hit there we can see the Reds starting to show up a little brighter and you want to handle this almost like an automatic would good firm press really digging in somewhat upright maybe closer to 45 and you just almost want to be automated and how you're doing this print be consistent it the more consensus consistent you are the better this is going to look here is test print number two you see the color is a little brighter starting to get some of the sandy kind of look mixing in the background some more just looking pretty great you're going to go ahead and flash this and we might do one maybe two more I'm just going to use the inside of this shirt so I'm going to slip this dude inside out now we're going to use the inside of this shirt you notice you don't see any of the ink coming through on the inside of the shirt you just want to lay your eat on top of the shirt you want to press it through the knit going to flood it up make sure we're completely clearing the mesh going to flash it make sure it's nice and flashed remove my flash out the way for the burn my palette up you fan it off a little bit now let's go ahead and do the whole sequence again there's our red here's our blue here is our yellow art gray last but not least our white highlight for our white top look at that that's just starting to come together looks like we're just about off to the races guys it's looking pretty good the only issue I see is a little bit of white sticking out right here however if I bump that too much you might throw me out of registration so it could just be a fact that my palettes are warped these things are concave it's time to replace them but to me this is acceptable all right we're just gonna flash here this and take it off the pallet and then we're going to print last but not least on the other side make sure our skirt is nice and flat going to do my white bass this time I might just take two hits looks like it cleared two hits now things starting to flow through the mesh I'm gonna go ahead and flash this okay I flashed it for about a good six to eight seconds really wasn't keeping account with that I know that generally for a fact that's what I tend to do I'm gonna go ahead and do our red we're going to do our blue again somewhat of an upright printing position really push that eat through there you are with our gray last but not least our white top and there we have it I believe we are ready for production let's take a closer look okay this is test print number four looking pretty dope see all the chrome would not inside the motorcycle we got our kind of desert background going here pavement overrode our Eagles looking pretty cool everything is looking great now it's time to tape off these registration marks and then we're gonna go to town on these t-shirts so I'm gonna grab my masking tape I'm gonna pull my flash over above the pallets and while I'm taping these things off I'm gonna let that flash sit there and you're going to rotate these pallets underneath the flash allowing them to warm up well I'll take some tapes it's hard doing this one-handed and holding the camera so I'm gonna take my tape unit tape each one of these marks off once I get finished with this screen I'm gonna rotate the next pallet underneath the flash that way it will warm them up and we'll make my tack sticky again be sure to check out our link here to a video on how to rejuvenate the tack and remove the lint from your pallets so I'm gonna go ahead and I'm gonna take care of that and take the recipes off I need to put this camera down as I'm still warming some of these pallets up check out the e that builds up on the back these Springs and this is what you want really and truly you want to eat the build up on the back of the shirt sometimes you may need to flash in between colors because not every job is the same this is our base take the pellet here's our red there's nothing that's going to be built up on there so that our second color after flashing so here's our blue you can see the red building up on the back of that rotates pallets so here's our yellow you see the red and the blue built up on the back pallet rotation here's our grand you can see the yellow take us again and then here's our lime you see all four of those colors on back cattle red or blue or yellow or gray and that's just part of doing spot processed this is almost like simulated product our excuse me CMYK but we're using opaque ease and they just kind of stack on top one another and they blend a little bit that's what you want is you want the eats to blend and whatever you do do not touch the bottom of these screens after you've got everything all set up and you're getting things going because it will just completely make a mess of your friend while I am warming up Lee's Palace I'm going to take a look at our last test friend and make sure that we do not have any pinholes that are noticeable chin will be at the other end stacking shirts and at this moment this would be a good time to see if there are any obvious pin holes in the shirt that we may want to just go ahead and tape off so that seems like a little something here looks like white this may be another pinhole here that looks like Lin that one doesn't seem to be rubbing off so to me that looks like white might be another little pinhole here aside from that after our first couple of prints we'll keep an eye out for pinholes and if they do have in the show we'll use a blowout gun we'll take care of those and there it is right there you see that there's a little pinholes so we're going to take that off let's see what else we have and that just might be laughs you know but I think I'm gonna toss a little tape up over here you see if we can't catch that and I think we're good for now Shannon will definitely let me know if there's any pinholes okay I use my method to remove the lint from the pallets rejuvenating the tack as I said before you see they're gonna be up here here be sure to check out our video on how to do that using a water-based pallet any social this is nice and tacky this palace started to get more which is what we want okay it's time to go into production guys okay it is production time I'm going to load my shirts up there's multiple ways that you could go about doing this however I prefer to do it this way I'm going to load my shirts up let me go underneath the flash that will get rid of any moisture in the t-shirts they'll also help shrink the shirts up a little bit it's that way when I do go to lay my base my colors will still they'll still be spot on and the other way you could do is you could load a shirt up print the shirt with your base rotate it underneath the flash and as that shirt comes around you do your colors on top unload that shirt load a new shirt hit your base rotate it and do the next shirt with your five colors on top of that white face however I like to do it this method because if I were do the loading the shirt hitting the white bass doing the six colors taking it off loading a shirt doing the bass what happens for me is the pallets tend to cool down and they lose their tax so this is the method I like to do alright so we're gonna do our white bass on all six of these shirts and as soon as that first shirt that I just printed comes around I'm going to do my six colors on top of that and then unload my shirts and rotate the pallet as I print them and I'll show you guys what I'm talking about and what that will do is allow the pallets to sit underneath the flash a little longer keeping them warm keeping the tack nice and tacky central so just keep an eye out make sure that you're completely clearing your base sometimes two hits works just fine I'm probably going just a little too fast which is why I'm needing to do it for a third time all right here we are in our first shirt I'm going to go ahead and hit my red now one of the things I'm gonna have to do I could either sidestep but so I don't have to adjust the camera I'm just going to move my flash out of the way generally out with sidestep for that first shirt here's our blue our gold yellow our grave and our highlight white now it looks pretty awesome now I'm going to send this downline shams going to take a look at it or any pinholes now I'm going to move my flash back like I said I generally would side steps so I don't have to do that and it'll speed things up so let's go through all these shirts we're gonna do our red and as you start to work on this job you'll become more efficient with your printing you'll be faster and you'll get into the groove so to speak so at a rate doing shirts like this I can do on a good day about 80 slow down I'll do about 45 hours I found like Shannon may have found a pinhole getting guys be somewhat machine like firm consistent press chance I got perhaps a 10-10 whole issue going on as soon as I get done doing this last shirt now we'll take a look at it and we will fix any of those issues shirt number three and I'm having to step around this camera so it's making me just a little slower you guys are right here I read I believe controlled in yellow Gregg and keep in mind guys that these are all 230 mesh screens 45 LTI doing the wide base and the rest of the five colors wet-on-wet here we are in shirt number five it's easy squeegee with these bigger designs kind of it's in the way a little bit golden-yellow be consistent and as you go just keep firm pressure on both sides of the squeegees and the middle will take care of itself shirt number five last but not least shirt number six golden-yellow be consistent got our gray just helps blend the the base and your highlight okay let's do a little bit of a closer you can see how these colors are just certain blend here and they tell this motorcycle are getting some nice chrome details going on here here's our road the hard highlights of this road but looks pretty awesome what do you think Shannon she giving it the shop numbs thumb up of approval I think that about covers at this time don't you think thanks for tuning in don't forget to subscribe give this video a thumbs up leave a comment even if it's just a Hello as always don't forget we are an official rep for cast fit productions so use our promo code Micha designs if you're in the market for screen printing supplies or equipment that will help support our channel and help us to continue making videos such as these Phil next time guys I'm going to ship these shirts out of here

Channel: Mikey Designs & Silk Screen

Views: 663,656

Rating: 4.9345398 out of 5

Keywords: home business, home screen printing business, how to screen print at home, how to screen print shirts at home, how to screen print t-shirts at home, how to start a business, screen print, t shirt printing, t shirt printing at home, t shirt printing business at home, tee shirt printing, tee shirt printing at home, t-shirt printing, t-shirt printing business from home, simulated process, spot process, how to, diy, tutorial, simulated process screen printing, how to make t shirts

Id: bWN-iR83Jj8

Length: 41min 6sec (2466 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 12 2018