Starting My Engine Build! | RM250 Rebuild 11

what's going on everyone as you can imagine I'm extremely excited for today's project we are going to be starting on the RM250 engine build we're going all the way up from the cases as you can see back here I'm gonna be installing the crankshaft transmission gear shift stuff we're gonna be making a lot of progress today so why don't we jump into it and get going so here's what the cases ready to go they're looking sweet got new bearings installed crankshaft is rebuilt this is an OEM crank with a Pro X rod so first step is install the crankshaft into the left crank case like I set up the case on a set of blocks that way I have an even stable surface to work on I should do right there should have enough clearance for that crank to go through the bearing now if you guys saw the video I posted the other day on installing bearings I use the combination of heat and ice to drop those bearings right in now I might try the same style method with the crankshaft I'm gonna cool down the crankshaft with some dry ice I have here heat up that bearing that's why I didn't install the seal yet can heat it up with a torch and hopefully that eases the installation now I'm not quite sure how I'm gonna get the dry ice on the bearing surface of the crankshaft you might have to jerry-rig it duct tape some dry ice to it I don't know but we'll make it work all I know is we got to move past because this dry ice is starting to melt I reckon we're just gonna bust out the old duct tape and duct tape some dry ice to that crankshaft I do not know if this is gonna work but let's give it a shot whoo that is getting freakin cold sounds like a murder in the crankshaft a little campfire in here all right we're gonna have to move fast pull off my subtraction here and look like it worked sniffing off tap just to make sure sweet I think we're in business well that worked out pretty slick I'm gonna give that a shot on the other side of the crank when I put the cases together - that should make it pretty easy all right this is where the fun begins and it really starts to get real so we've got a lot of stuff to install right here some transmission shafts gear shift components so let's jump into it here we have the trusty land the Gila concepts engine stand so the engine mounts on it with the studs front and back you can rotate the engine all different directions it's got a drain pan underneath super handy to have so why don't we get set up on it pretty frickin sweet eh definitely makes things easier you're able to get that engine any position you need so I'm gonna have to get that transmission all in order get everything squared away there so if you guys remember right I did have a damaged gear on one of these shafts can't remember which one it was the transfer pins or pegs we're all jacked up on it I do have that gear right here I have to pull things apart to install it and like always I have a parts diagram here just to make sure the washers and clips and gears are all in the right position I've made that mistake before I left out a washer and I had to pull everything back apart to fix that so save yourself from some headache get a diagram you can print these out for free and from Rocky Mountain so it looks like it was this gear right here that was damaged you can see that really sharp edge on that peg there so it should only be a matter of pulling off this last gear maybe a washer clip or two and slip that new gear on let's go ahead and see what we're working with here looks like we got a washer on the end a gear and this should be the culprit gear hair that's damaged yeah those edges are rounded off pretty good glad we're replacing that one while I'm in here I'm just gonna pull things apart a little further wipe it down there's a little washer that came off the back of that gear that's why it's really handy to have those diagrams you can get a little hectic once you start pulling things apart and lose track of where things go now this is the difference between the new gear and they used gear you can see how rounded off those edges are so see nice and square so that should make a huge difference in the shifting here diagram see what order we're in Wow it actually looks like there's a washer that goes in between yeah someone had this together wrong that washer was after the second to last year got a so that goes on there then my collar the actual gear with the pegs facing inward I'm gonna put a little oil on this slide that gear on and then we just have the gear and then the washer so this gear had the rounded edge facing out and the washer alright that chef looks good to go actually just for security I'm gonna go through and check all the rest of these so both the training shafts checked out fine everything's good to go so I'm gonna take some oil squirt it around inside the bearings here get everything all lubed up there's a little bit on the shafts as well and I should be able to just pop them right in so the oil that I'm using inside the bottle is just the Giro oil that I'm using in the gearbox when I got this thing all together now I've always found it easiest to install the shafts together so I'll just mesh up all the gears like so get the counter shaft started through the bearing kind of wiggle them into place there we go snapped all the way in make sure that main shaft is seated all the way looks good take this oil once again and get it in between the gears here and so you'll notice once you get the shafts in that will actually bind and that's because we don't have the gear shift Forks and draw them in quite yet so don't be freaked out it's only one of these gears that needs to be lifted up I'll show you what that looks like so now you could see that thing spins freely let's go ahead and get those Forks and drum installed now it's gonna be a little easier to get that drum and forks in with the engine tilt it up like that now first step is the drum get this thing all lubed up little Lube never hurts and now we've got the shift Forks in the shift pins so on the counter shaft two forks go on this side it looks like just one fork on the main shaft now I'm gonna have to do a little trial and error here I didn't keep the forks separated or like organized yep that's the one right there now for this side with these ship warps there's only three or there's three different sizes here so it's pretty hard to mess them up a little easier if you just keep them organized though actually for this one I have to pull the drum out temporarily help get it into place that looks like the one and then we've just got one left up here off that drum back in line up your Forks with the slots in the drum give you a little closer view of how these Forks and the pins go into the drum just swing it over it goes right into the slot in the drum sometimes you gotta lift it up a little bit just like that right into that groove now it's time for the pins move these babies up slip it in make sure that thing seats all the way into the crank another crank case there make sure you get plenty of oil inside of there get that thing pushed all the way down we're going to spin the shafts and make sure it all spins smoothly and doesn't bind up yep both directions look good now the last few things we'll need before we set the cases together are the dowel pins these are like locating pins they go on one on either side just help make sure everything's lined up properly and we'll also need the center gasket so for the dowel pins got to make sure these have anti-seize on them if they get seized up or rusted corroded inside the case it's a huge huge pain to split the cases down the road so oh so save yourself or the next owner a lot of hassle and throw some anti-seize on these put a little bit inside that hole they go in this will kind of help pop those things into place too now this anti-sea stuff is really nasty if you get it on your clothes or on your skin it'll really stain I don't know what's in it that makes it so freakin potent but it sure is nasty stuff rear ones being a little stubborn there there we go now before I put the gasket on I like to put a thin layer of grease on the gasket surface now putting grease on the gasket does a couple different things it makes sure that the gasket stays in place before you get the other case half on and also for any reason if you have to split the cases again it prevents the gasket from completely sticking and as you pull the cases apart that'll prevent or the grease will prevent the gasket from tearing so yeah this is a little thing I like to do just for safe measures all right let's pop this gasket into position it'll just kind of locate itself on those dowel pins kind of this tack into place line up all those holes that's where that grease comes in really handy they'll allow you to kind of stick it exactly where you want it and I'll also do the other case happier do the surface as well so I've got the right case ready to go got some anti-seize in these dowel pin holes got grease on the gas surface so now I'm going to try the dry ice method again kind of pack it around hold it on with some towels and then heat up that bearing with the torch that is yeah we're gonna want to put some oil this cranked up so that way doesn't rust with all that condensation all right I'm gonna give this a little two-handed effort and hold crank and heat up this bearing at the same time all right let's give her hell keep wiggling this thing on kind of tough to get everything lined up alright that's about as far as we're gonna get we're gonna have to use the little crank puller on this one actually I'm gonna give the old rubber mallet right tap on the engine mounting surfaces it should be good alright we've got the cases pretty much all the way together so I'm gonna get some of the case bolts in on the other side got my freshmen the replated hardware here pop in a few bolts spend these things in and just cinch him down so that way our cases stay together man this thing is starting to look good getting pumped okay before this engine falls off the stand I'm have to kind of resituated on here all right that's a little more stable now before this dries dries out that it really make any sense before this dry ice cools off or freakin melts Jesus Christ I can't talk I am going to pop in a few other bearings here I've got the governor shaft bearing as well as the water pump bearing for the inner clutch cover so I throw those in a ziploc bag get them cooled down porch the case and they should just pop right in all right I'm gonna pop in the rest these case bolts and then run through a few checks just to make sure everything is ready for the next step now a few things to check over once you get those cases mated together is first off you want to make sure that crank spins smoothly there's no drag there if you do have excessive drag that could be because the crank isn't centered in between the cases you can correct that by tapping on the end of the crank a little bit with a rubber mallet or another possibility is your main bearings aren't seated in the case all the way so if I have to take things back apart seat those and that should correct it but absolutely make sure your crank spins smoothly and then check your transmission shafts those should spin smoothly as well no excessive drag with no crazy in and out play a little bit is acceptable crank should be completely tight in and out now to touch a little further on putting the cases together I would say the driest method worked pretty good on the left side simply because you can just pop the crank in on the right side it wasn't quite as effective because you have so many other things to line up here with the shifting and transmission stuff and by the time you've got to the crank those have already equalized in temperature so it doesn't really have the same effect now another option for putting the cases together is a crank puller this attaches to the end of the crank and pulls the crank through the bearing the singers from tusk I've had pretty good luck with it in the past also if you're having trouble getting the cases to go all the way together chances are you've got something bound up with the transmission shifting stuff or those locating pins aren't quite meshing together so check all that stuff next up we've got some crank seals to install so got the seals in and it's always nice to have before pictures or some sort of reference so you know how far or how deep to go with the seals if you don't they're supposed to sit just below the case like right at the bottom of that little bevel there so I ended up using a tusk steering stem and solar kit to push in those seals comes with this long DAP tur or long bar a few adapters and they actually worked great for pushing in at crank seals as well now on these longer videos I always like to take a little halftime break do something else maybe do a giveaway so let me pull something down off the shelf and show you guys now what we've got here is a bin full these cleaning wheels that I sell on my website prime I know you guys have been buying these wheels by the truckload and loving them so what I'm doing at these is I am giving them away now about one in every 50 to 70 pads gets squished and shipping or squished during manufacturing and they end up with a little thinner edge here in some spots not a huge deal ain't gonna affect their the function of it but my policy is if I'm not a hundred percent on anything I don't sell it so I've got about maybe 100 of these that I'm gonna give away so you guys have until Friday April 3rd to get one of these wheels so all you have to do is sum your order on prime for ten dollars or more I'll throw on a wheel completely free so these are the finer type wheels they're excellent for cleaning and shining up aluminum I use them on my 250 the cr4 the frame the swingarm the engine linkage all sorts of stuff lots of stuff you can do with these so now's your chance to test one of these out for free so when you're over on the store and in the shopping cart all you have to do to let me know that you want to wheel go in this instruction box type in cleaning wheel that's it and so you guys have until once again Friday April 3rd do you submit your orders over $10 and I'll throw in one of those wheels for free all right let's go finish up this arm engine oh and by the way that hole I punched in the wall while back I covered that up with a clock you guys seem to love to point out that hole in the last couple videos all right I'm gonna get to work on this side the engine I'm gonna start with the gearshift assembly so all these parts right here they go on the end of the shift drum and their basic function is to allow you to go through the gears on the bike now to get the shift assembly inside the end of the drum you want to pinch these dogs here hold them together and the whole thing should just slide or right on or not gonna have to rearrange us a little bit all right we should be able to get it this time there we go next up we've got the tensioner assembly this basically just holds tension on the drum we've got a little spring that goes on the arm like so a little washer that goes behind and a shoulder bolt you got to make sure that shoulder locks in with your arm seats all the way and the arm goes in there just like this it's kind of a two-handed effort getting things in place get this thing cinched down most of the way make sure that shoulder goes in on the arm actually we can just tighten it down all the way and make sure your spring is locked into the arm like that grab yourself a nice set of needlenose pliers grab the end of the spring and bring it over the post and set the tension just like we had test make sure that thing is hold in tension yep looks like it's working good now something that's very important with these parts and start always in use when the engine is running you want to use some Loctite so blue loctite on these screws for the plate as well as the tensioner arm and then red loctite the really tough stuff on this pin that is very common to come loose as well as the center pin for the drum next up we have the ship shaft check out this beauty it's all replated looking brand-new again and make sure you have a washer on here that's very important easy to lose that washer and like always gotta throw some Lube on the shaft before you shove her in it goes right into that hole there and make sure you line it up with the gears on the assembly here just like that now the reason why I like to assemble the gear shift assembly before I do anything else on this side the engine so that way can test transmission make sure it all shifts good before I get any further I grab shifter throw it on the shift shaft on the other side and then just go through all the gears so you have to have the shaft spinning in order for it to shift think about like when you're trying to find neutral you're rocking your bike back and forth same concept though we're gonna go all the way down so that's first gear right there we're gonna find neutral halfway up right there now in order for the transmission to be in neutral these two shafts have to spin independent of each other so if I hold the counter shaft on the other side spin the main shaft you can see this shaft isn't spinning so that is indeed neutral I go down into first right there it wants to spin alright I'm gonna go back down into first gear and then go up through all five gears just to make sure they all work good so this should be neutral again right there this is gonna be second third fourth and fifth yep all works good this week I apologize if you guys hear some freaking bumping in the background my wife's upstairs getting busy after it working out she's been frickin quarantined with me so just try to stay busy now with the gear shift assembly all finished up and ready to rock we are on to you the kick start shaft now the only thing that needs to be lined up on here is let's see here there's a dot right there that needs to be lined up with the dot on this gear as well and then on this side the spring just goes into this hole slips in there plus the guide slides over while it goes over the spring and spring goes on the back throw a little bit of oil here in the crankcase pop that in spin it all the way forward now we're going to bring the spring all the way around grab your needlenose pliers bring it all the way over to the hole pop that in and we are done the Kickstarter also has an idler gear so we're going to pop that out in right now as well we've got a washer and a clip and next up we've got the clutch now this is the entire clutch assembly everything checked out fine upon inspection plates measured out great basket hubs all that is golden the only thing I'm replacing are the clutch springs I've got a set from tusk and I'm replacing this one-time-use washer always good to replace those and of course got the diagram here and make sure everything's going together right there's a lot going on here with washers and bearings and all that so I'm gonna start with the actuator arm this actually goes on the flywheel side the engine always good to have that in before you start assembly on the clutch side now the clutch arm just goes right here with a little help of some oil I think it should be set somewhere around right there flip this thing around now the first thing that goes in on this side is the actuator rod that connects with that arm we just installed let's go ahead and test that make sure this is working right yep and we've got a collar and a bearing some people say I go over the top with Lube but honestly what can hurt now the basket goes on got a nice Hinson billet basket here followed by a washer basically anything that's moving or going to be rubbing on each other throw some oil on it that's kind of my rule of thumb now the center hub and this is where that one-time-use washer comes in and finally we've got the nut that holds all of this onto the transmission shaft tighten that thing down I'm gonna have to find the torque spec on that one all right so the spec for this nut is 65 foot-pounds so if the torque wrench here and I'll have to dig out the tool that holds the clutch hub as well you know what I'm an idiot I forgot to put the primary gear on before I put the clutch on let's go ahead and get that on real quick glad I caught it right now before I had this whole clutch torqued and everything believe it just sits flush yeah sits flush with the end of the crank like that we'll just get that bolt installed a little bit later on that wasn't so bad so this is the clutch holding tool you're able to grab on to the hub with it you just want to barely clamp down on the hub let's go ahead and see what we can do here all right that did the trick now it is possible to tighten down that Center nut without the holding tool you could install all the plates and you'd have to torque it with an impact it's really hard to hold everything from spinning so these tools definitely come in handy you can use them to hold the flywheel as well so this is tusk brand from rocky Mellon I will have it linked down below now this is where the one-time-use washer comes into play so basically you're gonna bend up the edge of it to lock against the nut and that'll prevent the nut from ever spinning loose we're gonna grab it with a pair of pliers I'm gonna do it on that side maybe go 180 and do it on this side as well all right that should keep that knot in place so over here I've got a clutch fiber soaking in gear oil just using maximum MTL now this is a very crucial step if you don't soak the fibers prior to installation you're gonna have some issues with your clutch so I'm out these soak for a couple hours and then we'll be ready to install so the order is fiber steel fiber steel all the way to the end and one thing to note on these diagrams is if you have different fibers it looks like all of the steels are the same and all the fibers are the same go watch out some bikes will have a different style fiber for the first fiber or the last fiber so let's go ahead and start dropping these in now for the Steel's you'll have a rounded edge and a flat edge now it doesn't really matter a whole lot which way they go but you want to be consistent with how you're putting them so I always like to have the rounded edge facing out now at the end of the pushrod goes this little lifter piece along with a bearing bearing faces in I'm actually going to dip this whole thing in oil this goes right over the end now to confirm this works I'm just using the lever on the other side now we've got our pressure plate and then the clutch springs that'll just go ahead and snug them up by hand these don't need to be overly tight now for the primary gear it uses a bolt and washer you want to use some red loctite on this guy now the torque spec on the primary bolt is 50 foot-pounds by the way I'm getting all these numbers from a service manual I picked up from Rocky Mountain super handed have you have to go online and search around for all those figures now in order to torque this we'll have to jam the gear now they sell things like a gear jammer I need to actually get one but you could use a penny as well so you just put a penny in between these gears here and the pennies made of copper and that is a softer metal then the steel so it's not gonna damage anything sweet got it now we're gonna want to rotate the engine or tilt it down so that way that penny falls out always does the trick you want to check in those gears make sure there's no pieces from that pin you left over now all we have left on this side is the exhaust valve governor parts this piece just fishes up through there snaps right onto that gonna throw a little blue loctite on these screws and we've got a bearing and then this just pops right into there now for the water pump shaft we just have a little aluminum washer that sets in the case and pop that thing in I'm sure that all spins together actually I'll need to pop in the water pump seal before I put the cover on now on this seal the flange faces inward it looks kind of backwards but that is indeed how it goes got some fresh dowel pins to install I'm gonna throw some anti-seize on these and then dab some grease on the gasket surface tack this gasket into place we are now all ready for the cover finally gonna get some color going on this engine actually you know what it's probably gonna be easier to get this water pump started in the cover beforehand that way there's less things to line up here get that through just kind of wiggle this thing in place if we get the impeller on here we'll be able to kind of maneuver things a little better all right I think we are moving Oh looks like she's own do it I'm really digging that color along with the brush that combo looks so good together it's not really like a super flashy color but yeah that's a nice clean look it's gonna go ahead and pop in a few bolts get this thing secured now for the water pump impeller it only require 7 foot pounds so I'm not gonna fork it just kind of tighten it by hand and keep in mind on some bikes these are a left-hand thread like this one get this gasket on here and then the cover this is gonna look sweet freakin grease all over everything now there's a lot of people that are always curious how do you know which bolts go where so when you push them in you should have about what is that like a finger width so about a half-inch and so if you just plug in all the bolts and one seems longer than the other you all switch a few around to show you here so if you have one that sticks farther out like that one or is further in obviously if that ain't the right bolt and I always make sure that drain bolt has an aluminum crush washer on it now to button up the side all we have left is the clutch cover I cannot wait to get this thing on should look pretty sweet when you have a little o-ring like this it helps to have some grease in the groove help keep that thing in place or you can just simply put grease on the actual ordering there this is looking so TV's guys I am really pumped with how everything is coming out actually forgot one thing there we got some bling to throw on it a little a tusk anodized blue oil fill cap SiC that probably adds like five horsepower alright at this point we are ready to flip this thing around and get to work on the other side we've got the flywheel the stator the cover and a counter shaft seal kit first up we've got the stator now if the two top bolts kind of snugged up and rotate the stator until these two marks at the bottom line up kind of tighten down these bolts a little bit hold it in place and then we can get that third bolt in and not a bad idea to throw some blue loctite on those bolts too then we've got this badass black flywheel just line it up with the keyway on the crank throw a little blue loctite on the threads tighten that pup down now I would go ahead and torque this thing the spec on it is 40 foot pounds but my flywheel holder there's some reason does not fit in those holes very good I would need to draw off the flywheel a little bit I just don't feel comfortable using this thing and having it slip and cause some damage so I got some blue loctite on there I'm just gonna hit it with the impact gun and I'm gonna call that good now something else to consider when you're putting together an engine so remember that primary gear bolt or how to jam a penny in the gear to get that thing to kind of jam what you can do instead is once you have the flywheel on you can use this holder again I would use it if it fit this models is kind of weird I've used on other bikes and it actually works really good hold the flywheel in order to torque that primary gear bolt now later on we're going to need access to this arm to get the clutch cable on but just to get this motor kind of sealed up I'm gonna get the gasket and cover on I kind of want to see how this thing is gonna look all completed break my camera watch out there one last little thing we've got the counter shaft seal kit this one is some tusk so we're not gonna need the seal already got that in there we just need the bushing and these little openings we've got 200 rings that go on now we've got a bushing here make sure you have the lip of the bushing facing in kind of accommodate for those o-rings and they also provide a clip as well pop this on right now as well check that out and it's super clean exactly what I was going for got a bunch of brushed aluminum couple accent colors you can tell we're gonna be doing a little bit of blue on the bike got some tungsten seracote but that is it for the bottom end very excited with how it came out and all that's left to do is the top end so you'll see that in the next video so my whole goal with this bike as I discussed earlier in the project is they do something more budget-friendly I would say for the entire engine we're gonna be into it around 500 I didn't really go over the top with anything just the important stuff so rebuilt the crank had some cylinder work some repair worked out on that did all new bearings and seals and gaskets and a bunch of odds and ends so I would say right around 500 and like always everything I use throughout the videos will be linked down below that'll include the tools the parts all the way down to the little stuff like bearing seals gaskets all that will be down below in the description all right let's close out this video with a few beauty shots of the bottom end thank you so much for tagging along with me in this video hope you guys enjoyed it and make sure you check back on the channel and a couple days we'll be installing the top then getting this engine all tidied up it done cannot wait so I'll see you guys in that one and keep in mind you guys want to try out those cleaning wheels the same wheels that we cleaned up the engine with cleaned up the flywheel cover on the clutch cover flywheel cover so if you guys want to try out one of those wheels are free I am doing a giveaway on them until Friday April 3rd so all you have to do is submit your order on prime for 10 dollars or more I'll throw in one of those cleaning wheels that free make sure you note cleaning wheel in the instructions box so yeah I will see you guys in the top end video and until then stay safe out there and keep a pram

Channel: Cameron Niemela

Views: 813,110

Rating: 4.8548489 out of 5

Keywords: Dirt Bike, Motorcycle, 2 Stroke, Two Stroke, Dirt Bike Build, Cameron Niemela, Niemela, Dirt Bike Repair, Two Stroke Rebuild, Dirt Bike Rebuild, Dirt Bike Project, Suzuki, RM250, Suzuki RM250, RM250 Project, RM250 Build, Team Pryme, RM250 Rebuild, RM250 Engine, 2 Stroke Engine, Restoring Engine, Engine Build, Rebuild Engine, Two Stroke Engine, 2 Stroke Engine Rebuild, Starting My Engine Build! | RM250 Rebuild 11, RM250 Engine Rebuild, bottom end rebuild, Fixing RM250

Id: -8JyjVwoVyY

Length: 37min 59sec (2279 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 26 2020