I ran it out of oil!

guys I made a huge mistake let me explain so back here we have my girlfriend's little XR80 we went through and rebuilt this thing over the past couple months and so about a month ago I was finishing me up putting the graphics on getting the seat cover on and I was kind of in a rush because the next day I was proposing to Haley my girlfriend or now fiancee so I was kind of rushed getting the thing done I wanted her to be able to to ride it I was kind of the whole plan we started out riding the dirt bikes in the morning headed up to the hills go for a hike and then I proposed everything went perfectly except for the fact that I forgot to put oil in her bike dumbest mistake ever I'll give myself a little grace because I had so much more on my mind obviously with proposing the next day so how that happened was I took the engine covers off to powder coat them and while the engine covers were off the bike was like half way apart so I didn't really think of putting the oil back in at that point I figured once I finished the bike I'll put oil in it done deal but that never really happened because I had so much more going on my mind was just flooded with everything with the proposal so that's how that happened so don't ever forget the basics guys check your oil check your fluids before you go and ride and if you make a mistake like I did just learn from it I didn't really dwell on it too much it's actually kind of funny now that I think about it and we can go ahead and just move on and get the thing fixed up now what we're doing today is pulling apart the top end of the engine do you see the extent to the damage and we only ran it for probably five to seven minutes with no oil I mean there's still a little bit of residual oil in there but I think the majority of the damage is gonna be in the top end so let's dig into it right now this should be fun now to get to the top end I'll have to pull off the seat and gas tank it's kind of a bummer to have to tear into this beautiful little bike but on the flip side I haven't torn into the engine yet so at the very least it's going to get a new top-end now to get it into the top-end will obviously need to pull off the valve cover and the carburetor should probably wipe off some this dirt around the valve cover so that way it doesn't drop into the engine I don't see anything too crazy thus far maybe a little bit of wear on that cam lobe there but you can see there's still a little bit of oil in area so I don't know if it'll be too bad now where I go from here is I'll leave the engine at top dead center so I'll pull off the flywheel cover spin the engine over with the flywheel and then I can remove the timing chain timing gear camshaft and rocker arm assembly so pretty much every engine is going to have markings on the flywheel to indicate top dead center and timing so right there we've got a T and an F I believe so that T we're gonna line up with the marking on the crankcase so right there as top dead center you can notice it's not on the compression stroke because the flywheel spins kind of free we have a little bit of play in the rockers there and you also notice on the cam gear there's a marking that faces upward that oh so that indicates top dead center as well but as you can see the bolts for the cam gear will need to kind of spin the flag around to get access to those and actually before I pull off the cam gear I want to loosen up the tension on the timing chain and I'll do that by pulling off this bolt along with the holder plate and then we can just go ahead and pull off the top cam chain adjuster just pulls right out and that'll loosen up the cam chain completely then we're going to spin the flywheel around to get access to those cam gear bolts and we can pull the cam gear off of the camshaft yeah the four strokes are definitely a lot more complicated than a good old-fashioned two-stroke but honestly take your time and your patient anyone can work on one of these so next up I'll be pulling off the camshaft and rocker arm assembly so I'll be pulling off the four nuts on top so those will need to come off evenly like half a turn at a time now with a cam and rockers off we can really dig into this thing and see if there's any damage to the head now the biggest thing I was worried about were these cam journals so the cam rides directly in the head and these are aluminum in the canvas steel so in a situation where there's lack of oil these things are gonna get torn up pretty good ooh I see a little bit of wear on them shoot so as you can see there is somewhere in that cam journal a little bit of wear on that one too but once we get the head off and the cam and rocker back on here well see if there's any play in there and if there's no movement up and down in the cam we might be able to run it as is now to pull the cylinder head and cylinder off the engine well actually need to pull the cylinder studs off you can see there's not enough room to get them out of there and I'll also need to pull the exhaust as well kind of forgot about that now thread these studs out we'll be using what I call the double nut technique yep you heard that right two nuts for one stud so you just do a nut on either side of a washer and tighten them down against each other and then you can just simply turn left and loosens up the stud pretty slick deal there all right now the head could come off we can just drop the timing chain down inside of there go ahead and wiggle this thing off of here and see if we find any more damage and at this point the cylinder two slides right off to it actually looks like there's still a good amount of oil left in this engine which probably saved it from a lot more damage take a look at this piston Wow it actually looks pretty good considering there wasn't much oil in there and go ahead and pull that off right now now for the connecting rod it looks like there's a little bit of wear inside of there and run a screwdriver through there and see if anything catches an edge it actually feels pretty smooth maybe a little bit right there but I think the majority that is mainly just heat markings so I would say that's fine and it doesn't feel like there's any up and down or side to side play in those lower connecting bearings so the camera I've been using on the channel over the past couple years is a Canon abd and lately it's kind of an crapping out on me so I figured it's time for an upgrade so yesterday I snagged the Sony a7 3 with a 24 to 105 lens and I think you guys will really love this setup so let's say goodbye to the Canon and welcome to the Sony well what do you guys think this thing should be a lot higher quality and some better color as well I think this thing should be a huge upgrade over the old Canon so what we got next is we're gonna check out the cylinder head and cylinder figure out the extent of the damage on those and then probably clean up a gasket surfaces without the valves over the cylinder and just kind of get everything ready to go back together let's take a peek at this cylinder the bore shouldn't be too beat up so these have a steel boar they're not Nick is so plated or anything it looks like it's got some oil staining from overtime maybe a little bit of heat staying as well but I don't really see any scrapes or scratches I think all of that should hone out and now for the cylinder head the biggest worry here is going to be the cam journals let's take a look at these cam and rocker a cam definitely has some heat covering on it and there's a little bit of where where it rides in the head rockers and cam tower seem fine though nowhere on the rocker tips nowhere on the journals so let's set these in the head and see what it feels like so if the cam has up and down play there I would probably not want to run this head yeah there's really not much play there and it actually doesn't spin too rough either take a closer look at these journals here now they look pretty scraped up but honestly those those scrapes aren't that deep so I'm thinking I should be able to get away with running this head and it takes some scotch brite and try to clean up these journals a little bit see if I can get some of that little burst smooth down so I went through and clean up the journals with scotch-brite it seems like it smoothes it out pretty good and really remove any material it feels like and the cam I went through and did scotch-brite on that too I know what you guys are thinking Oh scotch right fixes everything but in reality it does help smooth out some of those burrs and so let's see how it feels now yeah that's a lot lot smoother for sure so now that I know the head will be fine what I'm gonna do next is pull out the valves valve springs all that and lap in the valve seats just try to get them to seal perfectly again so I've got a valve spring compressor here this allows you to compress the valve spring and pop out those valve spring retainers especially a little bag pinned in there there there's one and the other while off the valve springs pop out the valve ooh they're kind of stuck in there some carving build up those valve seats they look fine they're not cupped out at all so I'm gonna clean these up on a scotch-brite wheel and then lap them into the seats I'll show you how that's done now let's go ahead and see how these scotch-brite wheels on the buffer clean up these valves definitely clean them up pretty good Wow big difference there so what's nice about these finer wheels is they'll remove the carbon but they won't remove the actual material so the material loss is pretty minimal and then if you ask some really heavy carbon buildup you could use the rougher wheel but you got to be really careful with that because it could remove some of the steel and kind of work things a little bit now with the valves all cleaned up what I'm gonna do next is lap them into the valve seats so essentially what we're doing here is creating a perfect sealing surface between the valve and the valve seat and we do that by putting this valve grinding compound on the valve seat or the valve sealing surface and then spinning it around with a drill and that'll smooth out the contact between the two of them and create a perfect seal good I need you to wipe those valve seats down where there's no dirt or anything screwing them up as you're laughing them and then for the valve itself you're gonna want to put a piece of hose over the end of it so that way the drill doesn't chew up the valve and put a little bit of this compound on the edge of the valve drop it into the head and we're just gonna spin that valve at a low speed kind of go in and out to reseal that valve seat go ahead and wipe this down you'd be able to see if its ceiling completely make sure there's no pits or anything in that Valve seat yeah that looks nice and consistent all the way around sweet now it's on to the intake valve now the next step with ahead is to sand all the gasket surfaces to make sure they are perfectly flat all right so the setup i've got here is a quarter inch piece of glass glass is known to be perfectly flat and then i glued a 320 grit chute a sandpaper to it just use some this 3m spray adhesive obviously make sure there's nothing underneath the sandpaper there as far as like dirt or debris and then i'm gonna spray just some lubricant here on the sandpaper yeah so that should sand everything just perfectly flat all right those gasket services look absolutely perfect now can't see any low spots and voids in them so now what I'm going to do is soak the head in acetone try to remove all this carbon buildup in the exhaust port and the combustion chamber and obviously have to pull out the valve stem seals for that now if you want to get really technical with the gasket surface you can use a flat edge I know this isn't like a perfect machinist tool but you know what it'll do and if you see any low spots you can measure it with a feeler gauge to really see if it's within tolerance or not but looks pretty good now with the cylinder head soaking we get to work on cylinder pull off the timing chain adjuster so that way can flats and the top surface and then also hone out the board got the head and cylinder all cleaned up use some scotch brite and aluminum cleaner turned out pretty good got most of that carbon buildup off the head still a little bit left in the exhaust port would have been nice to use a vapor blaster on these but they'll do for now now to hone the cylinder we will be using this ball hone a snag from Rocky Mountain along with penetrating lubricant of course we'll need a drill to speaking to Rocky Mountain I was browsing around on the website today and notice they had a ton of deals for Cyber Monday now Rocky Mountains the type of company that doesn't really do deals or big sales that often so right now is like your only chance to score some deals I know I'll be grabbing a bunch of stuff from there to you so I will link those cyber monday deals down below in the description so ideally you want the home to spin around 1500 rpm and you always want to be moving up and down in the bore you don't want to stay stationary the material will wear off pretty quickly to do that and spray down the bore with a little bit of lubricant as well as the hone and now it's a matter just diving in and honing it I'm gonna have to change out this battery I would do maybe like ten seconds of one direction flip the drill in the other direction and go at it again still looks like there's a good amount of that staining within the bore so I'm gonna continue honing until that's all gone so this is about as good as we're gonna get it with a hone there's no vertical scrapes or scratches so just that kind of staining or a little bit of pitting that we're working with and we'll still be able to get a good ring seal but it ain't gonna be perfect now it's back to the cylinder head I'm gonna install the valves and check to make sure the valves are sealing perfectly I'm gonna dab a little engine oil on top of the valve guide just so that seal slides on easier then we're gonna pop the valve back into place and then install the valve springs and retainer then we'll get the valve spring compressor install it on here and then I'll grab the little retainers with a set of needle nose pliers and drop them right into a little cavity between the valve and the valve spring retainer cap no the slowly loosen up the compressor I like to get them kind of centered in there that looks pretty good right there and now we'll do the exhaust side and now we're going to check to make sure the valve seal completely with the seats yeah the way I check for that is the tilt the head up like this and pour water into the port and if you see any water seeping out on the other side of the valve that means you got a leak somewhere and you got to fix the valve or the valve seat so it looks like we've got a little bit of water dripping out of the bottom of the intake valve so I'm gonna pull it out give it another spin on the drill and hopefully that seals it up a little better now the reason why you want a perfect valve seal is because if you have a leaky valve it's gonna be losing compression out the exhaust or through the intake port and essentially you're gonna have lower compression than what you should have all right didn't have a quick lap job on the intake and exhaust valves got water inside the port there let's see if it's sealing now oh yeah we're golden I think we're ready to go back together now keep in mind guys I'll drop links down below to all the tools we use throughout this process including the valve spring compressor the hone lubricant valve lapping compound and all this messy tools now the parts I'll be replacing include the piston piston rings gaskets wrist pin wrist pin clips dowel pins all that stuff all this is Om Honda from Rocky Mountain so the first thing I'm gonna do here is size up the piston make sure it is within tolerance of the cylinder bore now to measure the piston to cylinder wall clearance you can either use a set of calipers or feeler gauges I would say the feeler gauges are going to be more accurate now the clearance on this bike should be about point 1 millimeter so I'm going to grab a point 0 8 kind of start on the low side and move up and how we're gonna check this is by feeding the piston into the cylinder and putting the feeler gauge right at the bottom of the skirt that's the longest edge of it so the point 0 way it barely fits in there so I would say it's a pretty good starting point for now if you're gonna use digital calipers you simply just go ahead and measure the skirt of the piston this way is a little less accurate we are at forty seven point four eight and then measure the inside of the bore so we're at 47 fifty-four 47:58 so yeah uh that's about where we came up with on the feeler gauges as well so definitely within spec now we're going to measure the ring end gap I've got the top and second rings here I'm gonna place them inside the cylinder bore actually I'm gonna push that ring a little bit farther down inside the bore to get a better reading on it the very top of the bore on a u cylinder is always a little bit tighter than the center of the board just because of wear now for ring and gap we want about point one millimeter per inch of bore now this board is one point eight five inch so that would mean we want about a 0.15 ring end gap go ahead and check that oh yeah that fits perfect a little bit of friction there I'm gonna bump it up one more size and see where we're at let's go to 0.18 alright let's go ahead and check the other ring now yeah that one looks good too now we're just gonna set up the rings on the piston okay so what we have here are a couple different style rings we have the oil rings right here and then the top two rings these are the ones that build the compression and these are like the oil scrapers they keep the oil on the piston so first off we're gonna start with the oil rings these go on the very bottom groove of the piston the ends of the oil ring should just butt together like that and then we've got the rings that go on either side of the oil scraper put this one on the bottom side and then this ring goes on top of the oil scraper so now you'll notice the end gaps for the oil rings are lined up so I'm gonna take one of those rings and spin it 180 degrees around and now we are ready for the top two rings so we're gonna put a little oil on these rings here some engine oil and so at these rings the markings on the ring are gonna be facing up and the silver one is a top one black one is the second ring kind of let's pry them apart with your fingers beat it onto the piston sure I have to scratch it up too much and into the groove ago and then same thing for the top ring once the Rings are in the grooves you want to make sure they spin around smoothly they're not catching up on anything and now for the ring end gap you want the spaced out about 120 degrees from each other take top ring spin it around toward the intake port or intake side and you don't want these top compression rings lined up with any of the gaps on the oil ring it's like this one's lined up and missed spin a little bit more yeah it looks pretty good right there now before the piston goes on the bike I like to pop in one of the circlips on the bench so I'll just get one edge in there and then can I just push it right end helps to have a little screwdriver a little flat blade will help that thing pop in to get my glove stuck in there that always happens get it out of there all right and it goes now as far as positioning of the end gap on the circlip you can either have it at 6 o'clock or 12 o'clock right now it's at 6 o'clock I prefer to go at 12 o'clock I'm gonna spin this around in the groove all right that looks good right there all right pistons ready to go on the bike put a little oil on the wrist pin and then make sure the exhaust side of the piston is facing toward the front of the bike slip it over the rod and slide that wrist pin right through and it's always a nightmare if you drop that second circlip in the bottom end so just to be safe put a little rag right there also in the timing chain hole and we can get to work putting the other circle append give it a shot installing it pretty close said ooh just about dropped it in there good thing we had that rag there what I was saying is I'm gonna try to install this thing at pretty close to 12 o'clock so that way I don't spin it around then we go didn't really work you install at 12 o'clock so I'm just gonna spin it around oh and by the way I tried to replace the timing chain on this bike but on this particular setup you have to split the cases to replace the timing chain so decided to go without now we're ready for gaskets and new dowel pins put a little bit of grease on this gasket like I always do I've got some new dowel pins always important to replace those makes everything slide together like butter and now for the gasket I'm gonna have a little layer of grease on the cylinder base as well and we'll definitely want to put some oil on the piston skirts a little bit on the Rings you don't want to over coat it but it is important to have some oil on there now if you put too much oil on your rings they may not seat as well as they should so definitely be pretty be conservative with the oil they're they're a little bit on the inside of the boards it's at the bottom almost forgot the timing chain tensioner how'd it go install that real quick but give those ring and gaps one last final check make sure they're about 120 degrees apart and then we could slide on the cylinder so we're gonna compress that top ring the best we can by hand light cylinder on dope gloves are getting stuck in there one downside of gloves sometimes and then the second ring just kind of works its way on there we're gonna just kind of wiggle the cylinder down and if there's any like major resistance you definitely want to stop maybe pull the cylinder back off check things out and you can fish the timing chain up through the hole feed it through make sure it's still connected up the crank and then just work on sliding the cylinder down and then those bow pins will just line up on their own now to prep for the cylinder head this gasket surface has to be completely free of any oil or grease so I'm going to use some contact cleaner here on a towel wipe this thing down and I'm gonna wipe the the head surface down as well then we've got a tiny chain guide that slides in right there got a few dowel pins for the head and then of course the head gasket now before I pop the head on I'm gonna get the engine out top dead center piston all the way up to the top and now we're ready for this cylinder head looks like we're gonna have to go from this side it's completely fine if that cam chain is down inside the crankcase I'm gonna use a magnet to get it back up and I'm just gonna wiggle it on to the dowels then I'm going to fish that timing chain back up top on goes the cam chain gear so we're gonna want this with the circle mark facing up and now we've got the cylinder head studs and if you remember on the cylinder there were two dowel pins on the flywheel side of the cylinder and that is the side that the longer studs are gonna go on we're just going to use the same technique with the two nuts and washer to tighten these down the Sud should be talked to about 18 16 foot-pounds some around there now we can drop in the cam and rockers but obviously we're gonna want to pour some oil in these journals so that way the cam doesn't start on startup got a few more dowel pins up here now we're ready for the rocker assembly on go the nuts and washers and we can snug them down and torque them to 14 foot pounds and of course we're gonna go to crisscross pattern here we won't have everything equal as you're tightening it down once we get this bolt on the side of the head tightened down we can tidy up the camp chain and tensioner stuff now we can pop the cam gear under the camshaft you have to spin the motor around a little bit to get those holes to line up so there's two different bolts for the cam gear the black bolt goes on the right side now the torques back on these suckers is 8 foot pounds now before we go any further with this we'll need to make sure the engine is in time if it's out of time we'll bend the valve and cause some serious issues so let's get the flywheel lined up with a crankcase the Chi needs to be lined up with the marking on the crankcase and then up here at the cam gear the o needs to be facing directly vertical you can see the cam bolts are in line with the gasket surface so we are good to go now we can pop in the upper tensioner so this kind of swivel bolt thing just Wiggles into place there we go and then the retaining plate goes on we're just gonna set this at doesn't really matter where right now we're gonna adjust this tensioner a little later on snug that up now while we have the valve cover off and the engine accessible it only makes sense to check the valve clearance the engine needs to be at top dead center which we are at right now both intake and exhaust are tight and that's because of from lapping the valves the valve pushes up a little bit when you wear away that material to reseed it so I'll have to adjust those we're just gonna crack loose that retaining nut and spin the adjuster out a little bit so the spec for this engine is point zero zero two inch or point zero five millimeter for both intake and exhaust stick the feeler gauge in there tighten down the adjuster so there's a little bit of friction right about there snug down the nut get the wrench back on there grab hold of the adjuster with some needle nose pliers and tighten down the nut check that clearance once again make sure there's a little bit of friction there yeah that feels good so the valve clearance is set timing is done and it's on to the valve cover flywheel cover carburetor exhaust gas tank and seat and of course can't forget to put oil in it this time all right here's what I should've done a few weeks ago that I completely spaced on it now the oil I'll be using is Shell Rotella t4 1540 had pretty good luck with this stuff in the past all right I think we're ready to fire it up wish me luck so she fired up second kick which I wasn't really expecting seems to run pretty good but before I get too carried away I need to set the cam chain tensioner so how this works is the bottom one right here you just loosen up the lock nut on there so you do that while the engines running and it kind of just sets itself and then you fine-tune the adjustment up here so you lose something bold to turn this adjuster here or turn this flathead until the cam chain is at its quietest point then you just tighten up that bolt and you are set so pretty simple stuff they can hear right there that sounds good I'm gonna go ahead and check the oil again make sure it's still topped off and past that just got worried about breaking the new piston now for break-in I'm just gonna run it on the stand for about two or three minutes just about medium throttle nothing too crazy shut it off let it cool down completely fire it up again on the stand run it for about another two or three minutes but you know a little bit harder on the throttle this time let it cool down and then tomorrow I'll go out and ride it around the driveway and stuff put some load on it kind of get on it hard to seat those rings in and pass that should be good thank you so much for watching this video guys I hope you picked up a thing or two I know I definitely did I learned not to forget to put oil in your bike that's pretty important kind of route some things but I had a ton of fun bringing you guys through the process of a top-end rebuilt on a four-stroke so that's it for today also one more thing I will be doing the giveaway drawing for the C or 250 cylinder heads I'll be doing a live YouTube video within the next couple days so keep an eye out for that well catch you guys on the flip side and till then keep a prime

Channel: Cameron Niemela

Views: 169,579

Rating: 4.9257779 out of 5

Keywords: How To, Honda, Dirt Bike, Motorcycle, Dirt Bike Build, Cameron Niemela, Niemela, Motocross, Dirt Bike Repair, Rebuild, Dirt Bike Rebuild, Motorcycle Build, Dirt Bike Project, Honda XR80, XR80, CRF80, XR100, CRF100, 4 Stroke, Four Stroke, XR80 Project, Girlfriends Dirt Bike, Fixing XR80, Fixing Dirt Bike, Haley Landaker, Pit Bike, XR80 Build, I Ran It Out Of Oil, Top End Rebuild, 4 Stroke Engine Rebuild, 4 Stroke Top End, four stroke engine, Blown Up Engine, Seized engine

Id: H3Auu9_6Fog

Length: 38min 26sec (2306 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 02 2019