Speed painting a grimdark Imperial Knight

hi everybody guy I'm penny from midwinter minis here in this video we're going to show you how to paint up an imperial Knights from Warhammer 40,000 in just a few hours using a very limited paint selection easy techniques and absolutely no airbrushing before we get going guy has been sitting on this model for over a year and a half now too worried to mess up such a big model and commit to a specific paint scheme I split an imperial knight renegade boxset with my pal ant who you'll know from our battle reports and while I've been trying to figure out what I want it to look like ants made a whole Imperial knight army with absolutely awesome paint jobs so I think it's about time I got my first night table ready so here's the kids all laid out as with most big kits you'll find that it's much easier to paint if you keep all of the main parts separate and then put it all together at the end so here we've got their legs the two weapon arms the torso with the head attached the torso carapace as well as all the little armor plates now I wanted to slightly customize this Knight to make it a little bit ambiguous as to whether it was simply a loyalist relic or a Kaos aligned Titan in the early stages of becoming a demon engine and as I'd recently bought a 3d printer I swapped out the polled runes for these funky Nergal themed alternatives from a kit on Thingiverse now I'm far from an expert on resin 3d printing and I've had a lot of failed prints so far but these came out quite nice the details pretty impressive cleaning them up was quite simple but even though I printed them a hundred percent scale they came out slightly small as you can see the curve doesn't really match up on the shoulder connections here don't forget to drill out your gun barrels otherwise you'll receive a never-ending stream of YouTube comments about it now to push the Nergal theme with some really easy kit bashing I found some useful things in my bits box to add to the night namely a bit of a baton scape and some shields from the putrid blight Kings spoilers for future videos now I love a bit of kit bashing but I'm also really lazy and as these videos are all about speed and simplicity we don't worry too much about keeping all the fine detail at the edges of the bits we've used most of this is going to be hidden away anyway don't be afraid to cut things up and damage things with your snips and hobby knife on models of this size being a bit rough around the edges there's no problem at all as it adds weird texture that we can bring out intentionally later in terms of the law all Imperial Knights are millennia old war machines and I want this one to show its age and have a story to tell I use my snips to cut up one of the masks and I also damage the carapace directly above it maybe bearing the scars of ancient battles and one of the most fun things about the hobby is forging the narrative as they call it so never be afraid to do it in your models once we check that the different kit bash bits would actually look okay it was time to make some fittings from millipedes ultimately we're going to use super glue to fix these parts together so it's important to make sure there's a tight seal to make them hard-wearing for the pauldrons that meant keeping everything nice and wet so nothing stuck to anything we didn't want it to applying some milliput so the underside of the 3d printed part and then pressing it into place this left a perfect imprint of the curve of the shoulder meaning that the pieces would fit together nicely later because the bit of a Baden's cape was ridged and not flat I also used a bit of Miller pert to stick it to the rear of the shield and to make the front of it look a little bit more cool I stuck one of the putrid blight King shields to it I went around all the additional parts creating new fittings out of mill pits and then left them all to dry I'd like to imagine this night rampaging through a ruined industrial area and big models have great potential for being creative with bases so I stuck down this random aquarium filter cover and use the excess Miller pert to raise up an area for ground on the base following the steps in our how to make industrial bases from trash tutorial I added a few bits and bobs here in there with superglue until I felt there was enough going on visually kabob skewers mosquito mesh bits of MDF and cardboard glued on I sprinkled sand over every new piece I added to create texture and soak up the excess super glue then I applied some texture paste onto the base to bury some of the little basing elements and to make it look a bit more realistic when you print things with resin 3d printers you get these supports that sort of look like pretty decent scale model trusts so I stuck a bit of that half-buried into the ground to keep with the war-torn industrial theme finally I added some finer texture paint to the base so that almost none of the black plastic of the original base is visible okay so with assembly kit bashing and base making out of the way it's finally time to paint when batch painting little pieces it's best to attach them to little sticks with something like blue tack this makes it easy to turn them and you don't have to hold them in your hands Prime all of the armor plates with white plastic primer and the mechanical part is like the body legs and arms with black now some areas on the black parts like the shield on the cannon and the toe bits on its feet will need to be white eventually but before we try to do that let's dry brush the black parts with gunmetal silver dry brushing metallic silver paint over black is a really fast and effective way of getting a great realistic metal tone simply get some silver paint and a big fat brush that's past its best and work the paint into something absorbent like this kitchen paper then once most of the paint is gone go to town on the model brushing back and forth as you fancy just quickly going back to 3d printing it's funny that even in their games workshop made parts of this night you can clearly see the frame of the 3d model that was used to create the mold it's quite interesting some elements of the white primed parts also have some bits that we'd want to paint silver but instead of dry brushing I just paint them normally with a nice big brush remember to thin your paints nicely as it's much better to have to go back and do another thin coat than obscuring detail on your lovely model now I thought it would be pretty cool to write some Latin nonsense on one of the armor plates but the pen and paint combo I use just simply didn't work and even after about half an hour it just washed off as soon as I touch it with water oh well don't worry about making mistakes from time to time it's all just a learning experience your learning experience Thanks I painted all of the bones skulls and Scrolls with a car key beige base coats which will differentiate them nicely from the white armor plates so to paint the white armor plates on the black primed parts we're gonna need to build it up slowly white paint is notorious for looking chalky and crap if you paint it on thick so we do a few very thin coats to build it up fortunately we want this model to look ancient and grungy so it doesn't matter too much about making it really smooth to help build up the strength of the white dry brush and stipple a little thinned white paint here and there trying to avoid the silver parts as best you can it's not perfect but you'll barely see the difference soon the fabric parts which are really just the dangling crotch flag and the bits of a Baden's cape stuck on the shield will be painted a nice bright red this will be really dulled down soon but it'll be nice to have a break from the monochrome look of the models so far before we apply our wash stage I painted the dirt on the base with a grey green color which is pretty muted but very realistic now it's time for everyone's favorite technical paint citadels typhus corrosion using a brush that you don't mind absolutely thrashing apply typhus corrosion any way you'd like to add grungy grimy buildup try to be heavy-handed on some bits but lighter elsewhere to keep things nice and varied as you're simulating dirt and grime buildup don't be afraid to go in with a dry brush or paper towel or even just your finger to manipulate the paint until you're happy with it you can also use typhus corrosion to hide any crappy kit Bosch mistakes it's not bad modeling it's weathering BAM that's it for the base coating stage now onto the wash for this we're going to be using the DIY shade paint following the recipe in the DIY dip wash video we'll put a link to that at the end of this one as it's a really useful and super cheap thing that you can add to your hobby Arsenal apply it liberally all over every single piece of the nights' all the silver parts all the white parts and the red bits to every single piece [Music] if you think ever looks a little too dark on the white areas white your brush with water and dilute it on the model itself it won't stain until it dries so you can manipulate it around all your life until you're happy with it remember this is the darkest these parts will look and we're gonna bring the white back up where we want it soon this Porsche recipe breaks down the surface tension of the mix so it seeks out all the cracks and crevices and does quick Chiti panel lining for you much more than just using Iraq's earth shade or non-oil would give it a few hours to dry fully and then we can start picking out the details here and there and add more texture on the armor panels to add a little pop of color I decided to paint the smooth cables on the model a basic green then I added a little bit of yellow to that green to create a highlight color and applied it to just the top facing parts of the cables okay moving on to the armor plates we're going to be sponging and stippling on some white paint now in this hobby it's useful to keep a little bag of small bits of packing foam from stuff you buy you're not spending money on it that's a handy crafting item to have around as for paint choice I'm not going with a full-on white paint as it look too bright for the ancient look we're going for so I'm using this off-white called white gray by Vallejo it's very thin this makes it perfect for applying nice transparent layers which you can build up without creating any unwanted texture using your sponge Bab a bit of paint from your palette dance it around for a while so there aren't any big wet patches and then start dabbing it onto the armor plates try to be a bit intentional and spice with where you add the stippling effect and be sure to keep some of the grimy areas really grimy so you get a nice variation of tones ultimately doing this creates a sort of chipped worn paint effect which fits in really nicely with the story we're trying to create for this ancient war machine on parts that also have silver areas you'll inevitably end up with something white sponged on the dark bits but don't worry we'll be able to fix those up later here's a result we're aiming for it looks great considering it's just primer typhus corrosion wash and sponged white paint easy but very very effective next we'll use our khaki paint again to bring out the scrolls and skulls being careful to avoid the nice dark recesses we also added a bit more of the basic red color as a streaky highlight on the main fabric parts again avoiding recesses adds a little white into the khaki paint and add a few selective highlights here and there you don't have to be precise here we're using a size 5 brush if you want to be a bit more exact with what you're doing switch out to something like a size 2 okay so here's a really quick easy but effective way of painting a robot eyes and lenses start off with a reasonably saturated base color I'm choosing red in this case and base coat the lens don't worry if you get a little bit on the areas around the eye as it lend up just looking a bit like a glow now I add a brighter complementary color to your base paint for my red I'm adding a vibrant yellow yellow is also a great color for highlighting green and blue can be highlighted nicely with white or very pale pink paint this new lighter color in the bottom left corner of the lens but leave the top right alone so you can still see the original base color add more yellow in the mix and paint even closer to the bottom left corner finally add a couple of very fine dots of white in the upper right corner at the lens this takes less than a minute from start to finish is easy to achieve and I think you'll agree looks pretty good I did a similar thing with a little viewport on top of the carapace but I went with different shades of grey to make it look like regular glass and while you watch me build that up we'd like to thank our newest patrons luke mcdonald s'en liebe schnitzel adrian Drake Magnus grands revoke a door lock sun'll nikolaos cog in the machine Dave Holliday Adriana Fonseca Dillon Mike Stone Edward Han Carl Roberts Duane MC angel drug Federico Ruchi Tom oh gosh Hall Austin John T 1 loool Orido george barker get that shooter roman Heinrichs maybe you Mark choco Annie Pierce Zillow patron Stef Smith Colin Miska wits Amy the vengeful penguin traitor al the floor hammer podcast max de Caesar Jamie Douglas and Tyler Holloman oh that's quite a few huh now keeping with a Nergal theme I also added three little final dot highlights this is a fun little touch that only the keen-eyed will notice but it's worth it ok now we've done all the things that are easier if the model is in pieces it's time to start putting it all together and see how things are looking because there's no bare plastic visible on the contact points will need to use super glue to fix the armor plates in place while leaving some things to be articulated leaving some things to be articulated we're gluing things like the smaller guns shield and head so everything isn't flopping about all over the place when the model is moved for the next few steps it will be easiest to be working with the arms body legs pauldrons and banner as combined pieces to spice up the banner I'm going to add a water slide transfer choose one you like this particular one is obviously meant to cover the whole banner area but you can use whatever you like and just trim it down to fit make sure you cut close to the printed design so you don't get loads of clear transfer material around the outside get a little bit of water on your pallet it doesn't have to be loads or submerge the transfer just enough to soak the paper wet the transfer and occasionally touch it lightly with your brush if it doesn't move don't force it after a few minutes it'll just come right off in theory now be as delicate as you can when these things are floating loose they are very easy to tear moisten the surface of the banner and carefully scoop up the transfer on your brush and as you can see I ripped mine a bit so I decided to try and scoop it from the bottom instead it stayed folded over on the top where I was placing it but you can generally fix this easily by just sliding your brush under the transfer and teasing it back into shape now transfers are known to be fiddly to get in the right position but they won't dry in place until the moisture has totally evaporated so just take your time and get it right once is in position and dry use some matte medium which is basically just transparent paint without any color in it and paint over all of the surface of the banner this will lock the transfer in place but also knock off the glossy finish the dried matte medium will also make the transfer a nice and rigid so you can cut away any excess like I had at the bottom of this one okay now let's make a little bit of wash using water I cracked earth shade and non-oil in equal parts to start staining areas of the model the reason we're not using the DIY wash for this is because we want to disdain - and not just run into the recesses apply a thin layer of this shade to the lower portion of the banner we'll build this up slowly as each layer dries to make it look old and worn in between coats you can use this paint to panel line any areas you like to add definition to the model's armor plates and catch any areas that the all-over DIY wash might have missed banners dry time for another layer keep building layer upon layer until you're happy with the result if you want to add some shine back into the metallic parts now's the time to crack out your gunmetal paint again and pick out little details here and there this will also help hide any areas where you accidentally hit the metallic parts with your white sponging earlier finally I added some dry brush metallic and earth tone paints to the base to bring it to life a bit and gave the rim a nice coat of black I tested to see if the feet would sit on the base and made a little plastic peg out or some snipped sprue to bond his foot firmly to the base I use plastic glue on one foot and super glue on the other and it feels like it's held for the base by cement after an hour okay moment of glory let's glue this bad boy together here it is all in all outside of drying time this model took about four hours to paint I would have put my little speed paint timer on but it only goes up to 99 minutes as you can see even though it's a very basic fast paint job a few extra details here and there and a striking color scheme really helped to make it look the part on the tabletop as always it's so much better to play with a painted miniature than gray plastic and this heavily weathered paint job is really evocative helping your imagination along when coming up with stories and scenarios involving this Imperial or not so Imperial Knight thank you so much for watching now go check out that DIY watch video if you want to learn how to make it yourself also if you've enjoyed the music in this episode or any other midwinter minis video our album is out now check the links in the description and bye for now bye [Music] [Music] [Music] you [Music]

Channel: Midwinter Minis

Views: 717,281

Keywords: warhammer 40k, how to paint an imperial knight, paint imperial knight, paint renegade knight, how to paint renegade knight, imperial knights renegade

Id: zIEuVBR9bRQ

Length: 18min 39sec (1119 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 02 2020