Converting and Painting a RENEGADE KNIGHT!

this video is going to be epic chock full of conversions sculpting custom stencils hacking up jigsaw blades decals oil washes and yes even painting grab some popcorn a dr pepper sit back and enjoy the show [Music] commissions the lifeblood of miniature painters heartbeat fund around the world [Music] it always begins with the best of intentions but greed and navity poise in the well soon after [Music] how quickly the backlog grows with the dreams of others while reality sets in time fades into oblivion leaving nothing but regret and but not all is lost hobbyists can find their strength reclaim the trust they once lost like the fire of passion and motivation once more and one by one the commissions are finished freedom from the prison of guilt is in sight but there is one more beast to slay something still looks in the closet of hobby shame something massive something evil [Music] a hulking metal construct with the corrupted spirit a representation that humanity's finest achievements can be tainted by chaos a renegade knight well as the scary narrator ladies said today we're going to be working on a renegade night i'll be taking the standard kit and converting it you might ask why i'm doing this given that a stock renegade kit is available for purchase and the answer is that i took this commission when that kit didn't exist i'll let you do the math on that one this is my last commission i have remaining so let's crush it [Music] so if you weren't aware a knight is a very large model with many pieces because of this even a simple step like cleaning and assembling the model can take a decently long time just like on smaller miniatures we're clipping away various parts off of the sprue shaving away extra sprue bits removing mold lines filling gaps drilling holes and otherwise solid gun barrels and glued together some parts with plastic glue i've done each of these hobby steps in many other videos so if you'd like more context i'll link some videos in the description that go over these steps in more detail i'll be keeping the majority of this model in pieces which will make painting it significantly easier to handle each of the individual pieces i took a page out of the scale modeling handbook and cut lengths of bamboo skewers adhered each part to my makeshift handle with poster tack and then stamped it into some kaizen foam some comments about this i'd probably prefer to use double-sided tape instead of poster tech because i always hate dealing with it it sometimes fails can be hard to remove from the part it reacts with certain liquids etc also i only use kaizen phone because that's what i had laying around normally you'd see scale modelers using a cat scratchboard now the person who commissioned this model wanted me to magnetize the weapon so he could swap them out whenever he fancied so i had to do some magnetization i tried a bunch of different ideas to get this to work i tried hiding the magnets inside the weapon so you could slot them in and out i tried backfilling the weapons with little cute styrene discs so i could glue magnets in and surround them with apoxie sculpt but in the end they were just too weak causing the weapons to droop and also making me scared that at any point they could fall and shut it into 8 million pieces that probably wouldn't happen but you never know what worked in the end was drilling a 10 millimeter hole in the arms and gluing in a neodymium magnet flush with the surface that was also 10 millimeter then i cut off some of the arm bits and replaced them with a piece of brass and a magnet glued together with super glue once painted this just looks like another robotic arm part and it's efficiently strong to hold the weight of the weapons of the various approaches that i tried this was the simplest and also the best side note if you want to replicate my process entirely make sure your power goes out in the middle of the day forcing you to be out in the sun hobbying ah i'm melting all right that's all for assembly now [Music] we'll start with the simpler conversions and get more complicated as we go along the guy who commissioned this wanted the model to have some bullet holes scattered across the armor so i took my dremel and drilled some holes in the armor making sure to vary the size of the drill bit to simulate damage from different projectiles i then took my x-acto knife and beveled the edges of some holes a little bit like a chunk of the armor was removed when the impact occurred with the same rotary tool i used a bull burr tip to create some rough surface texture where maybe some weapons didn't punch all the way through the armor sometimes when doing this little plastic shavings kind of gunk up all the conversions and i deal with that by just applying some tamiya extra thin plastic cement to the shavings it melts them right off leaving a nice clean effect this is a helpful tip that i picked up from plasmo a great scale model youtuber i try to be reserved about how much of this weathering i did this machine is old and war-torn but i didn't want to dominate the entire model just like salt and food you got a season to taste at several points i was inspired by the actual benegate knight kits i made several conversions to match like these spiky triangles on the armor trim with an x-acto knife i scuffed up the surface where i had planned to add the little trim detail this gave the surface some tooth for the epoxy sculpt to adhere to which i sculpted with various metal tools and silicone shapers until i got a vaguely triangle-like shape i made sure this was vaguely flush with the surface but also after it cured i sanded it down so it was nice and seamless still being inspired by the stock renegade kit i also added a lot of pokey bits to the main hall like this staff from my blackstone fortress game or various spears or track pins i wanted a variety of width and length alright now to the main weapons for the big beady fist i wrapped two types of chains around the knuckles and secured them in place with super glue thin a technique that i'll show later with footage that doesn't look like total trash i also glued some little skulls onto the ends of the chains but again this footage is pretty garbage for the big buzz saw blade i was inspired by another renegade knight by monstroys who used an actual jigsaw blade i grabbed one of my used jigsaw blades and cut it down to size using a metal cutting disc and my rotary tool at first i didn't really know how to approach it apparently off camera i also filed down the teeth of the blade to make it dull but not too dull because i like my commissions to have some kind of liability don't tell my wife i said that i then used styrene to create a housing for it complete with trim around the edges i was trying to make it fit in with the other saw in terms of design so it looked normal and like it belonged once all the trim had been glued to the saw housing i scraped and sanded the trim so it meshed with the rest of my conversion and that was the salt weapon sorted sorted british vocabulary was rubbing off on me after watching four seasons of love island i swear it's my wife's idea taking a break from weapons for a hot minute let's make a robot loincloth all the knights have banners that hang very awkwardly in between their legs all i'm reminded of when seeing these banners are the at80s on hoth getting tripped up i instead added the banner flag loincloth kill whatever it is higher up on the model around the waist you know like a normal person might do i started by making the holes around the waist larger so i could attach some chain to them normally i just super glue stuff like this in by this time i actually pinched a chain link closed around the hole so it made for a nicer realistic connection before closing off the other side we need to thread the banner on this chain and to create that banner i used brass shim stock i sketched out the basic shape of my banner with the sharpie and cut it out using an x-acto knife i was struggling with cutting out the corners of this banner and a good solution to deal with them was to drill out each corner with the dremel first and then connect the dots essentially with my exacto knife the edges were pretty jagged so i cleaned it up with a file brash shim stock is super thin so i can bend and curve the surface to my heart's content it doesn't exactly look perfectly like cloth but once it's painted it'll look great and i'm sure i have some skills to learn about dealing with this new material as well with that done and the holes drilled for the chains finished i was able to thread the banner on and fasten it to the other side at the moment the banner is all floppy and you can definitely keep it like that if you want but i wanted to fasten it in place and i did that again with some super glue thin be sparing with this stuff because it has a tendency to get everywhere and i mean everywhere alright let's get even weirder when this combination was sent to me it was also sent with some bits from the forge fiend kit for conversions i wanted to use the assault cannon looking thing but it was a little dinky so i grabbed some hollow styrene rods that were similar in diameter and glued them to the weapon with a larger diameter rod running through the middle i trued up the ends of these pipes with some gentle sanding once the glue was cured now the part that this thing would normally attach to has a gaping hole in it so i busted out my trusty circle cutter and cut a little styrene disc that fit nicely into the hole this gave me a surface that i could glue my weapon to with that glued in place i took some guitar string which makes for great two scale cables and attached them from the holes in the gun to the holes below the big shield of the gun undoubtedly this is also a weapon of some kind that i am clocking up with cables but it looks cool so who cares it's a little hard to bend guitar string without getting a kink in it so i try to only bend it over round surfaces but even that's not perfect next up i sculpted a bit on the bottom of the gun to make it look less like it was just awkwardly glued in place and more like it was an actual fixture attached to the weapon i used more of the metal sculpting tools color shapers and plenty of water to get a nice finish i also sanded the part that connected to the plastic kit to make sure it was nice and seamless to finish it off i sanded a flat side on a skull and attach it to the middle of the assault cannon because it's a bad guy renegade night you know chaos and stuff also there's a massive hole in one side of the gun where i presume it gets attached to a forged fiend i just stuffed a bunch of epoxy sculpt in there and a couple of skulls again because chaos does anyone pronounce it chaos chaos sounds sounds less chaosy all right on to the last bit of conversion the battle cannon using another bit from the forge fiend kit i sought it down to size i wanted the cannon to be coming out of the mouth of whatever demon weapon this thing was and i had some resizing to do i had to widen the gap in the mouth but also the sides of the cannon so that it matched the width of this mouth weapon thing after a lot of cutting and sanding i was able to get a pretty nice fit that i glued into place like the previous weapon i glued in a piece of styrene into the cavity in the big gun arm thing so i could actually attach it since the end that would get attached was all gnarly because i sawed it in half i pinned it in with a piece of brass and some super glue this gave me a nice sturdy connection that i could now start sculpting on now this clip is very old and i have no idea why i was sculpting what i was sculpting but that looks like a wiener does it not thank god i had some sense and instead just sculpted a bunch of puffy looking flesh around it almost like the engineers that added this on had to keep it in place with some dark magic dark willy magic apparently the key to get a nice smooth finish is silicone color shapers and a cruddy brush with some water in it applying water liberally to the epoxy sculpt lastly i had to sculpt in some more gums and teeth so the foreign weapon itself connected to the battle cannon with that complete that was the last bit of conversion on this model that process in and of itself took close to 50 hours let's see how long i quoted this commission for uh well i messed up moving on as one last bit of surface prep i cleaned off the model with a toothbrush and some soapy water i manhandled the crap out of this thing a lot so i was looking to clean off any remaining finger oils plastic shavings etc all right we're about halfway through this now let's take a brief break to thank the sponsor of this video kobach keep is a miniature accessory brand their bread and butter focuses around the usage of magnets cobalt keep sells a variety of base sizes that you might find in typical games but what's special about these bases is the magnet well on the underside which allows for easy installation of a magnet with a little super glue now your minions are able to stick to any metal surface such as a thicker case or cobalt keeps painting handles that come in two different sizes one a little larger than the other for different hand sizes the number of ideas that can take advantage of magnets is endless and a new product that cobalt keep is currently releasing on kickstarter are their stackable display cases coming in a variety of sizes you can display your heroes entire units and more inside these display cases for transport and also for showing off to friends and family the stackable display cases make storage easy even if you have limited space you can find our kickstarter link in the description below and it is running until the end of the day on november 1st check it out and take advantage of a hefty discount on the products in the kickstarter additionally from now until the end of october you can get a 20 off discount on their web store when using the code moist at checkout that was not their idea it was one of my patrons ideas and i loved it you can find all their stuff linked in the description below thanks for sponsoring youtubers cobalt key now back to the video [Music] the first couple stages of painting are pretty straightforward i applied a black primer all over the model to improve paint adhesion and then started applying a silver base coat i used vlajo metal color aluminum a fairly bright silver because i plan to muddy it down quite a bit later on in the painting process with that done i moved on to applying the first of the house a-trax colors the chosen chapter for this renegade night i applied the dark grey without doing any masking for the silver i figured that in certain areas it would just look like greasy dust in other areas i could just paint the silver over it with a paint brush and that'd be a lot faster than masking everything off meticulously with the base coat down i applied layers of highlights getting brighter and brighter i had to keep in mind that once i started to dirty this thing up it would likely get darker so i need to shoot higher than what i want my end result to be lastly i applied a black shade with the airbrush for the panels that are large and flat i simply did a gradient from top to bottom sometimes having a nicely smooth blend on a model is cool enough it doesn't have to necessarily be realistic on other parts that had more interesting volumes i did consider a xenotho lighting like on the chest shield you don't necessarily need an airbrush to paint a night but to get blends like this that span the entirety of the whole of the model it can sure as heck make it infinitely easier i can't imagine trying to get this massive gradient with a brush in under five hours if you're watching this and you're like that's got y'all don't have an airbrush that's totally okay just maybe don't go for something as grandiose as a blend across each and every panel of this monster a base coat with some recessed shading and some edge hiding looks cool enough after that was done i did some masking to cover up half of the shoulder pads and the chest shield and did the red half of the armor the other house atrax color i did this in a very similar fashion starting with a mid-tone applying two highlights and then a shadow to finish it off with the red complete i could peel the tape off for a very crispy reveal oh that's nice well that was extremely satisfying i suppose i should do something that is extremely unsatisfying to balance it out how about painting golden trim forever is this thing out oh my god i've been base cutting metallics for nine hours straight that took a long time to finish up the base coating i painted a copper metal accent color on various bits and bobs around the model and also painted some yellow and gray cables around the model there are other details that do need to be painted but i'll wrap this up in the end for now this is all the major color down and i can move on to a step that's very unfamiliar to me [Music] something that i learned while painting this guy is that the knights have very specific iconography on the majority of their armor panels one could freehand all of this but that would take a long time and as you remember i instead used decals which were sent along with the knight and that's going to save a lot of time applying decals to big surfaces like this isn't the most complicated thing so here's a quick tutorial cut out the decal that you need and moisten it in water and set it down for two to three minutes once you're nearing the end of that time prepare the surface of where the decal will be with some micro set a solvent designed to work with decals while that's still wet grab the transfer paper with your decal on it and slide it off using whatever tool is comfortable to you a great option is a paint brush at this point you still have a lot of adjustability to get it in the right spot sometimes the brush doesn't cut it and i like to have something a little bit harder like an old airbrush needle or tweezers once the placement is right gently apply some micro sole to the decal this will soften the decal helping it conform to the surface a lot better it's important to get the location correct before doing this as it softens the decal a lot making it very difficult to adjust without getting wrinkles and bubbles in it this is a pretty good intro to decals for myself because all the surfaces are nice and large and fairly uniform so i went a little crazy applying decals all over the model we'll deal with hiding the fact that these are decals a little bit later okay that's cool but how about the specific house a-trax iconography i don't have details for that well i splurged a bit and bought this machine [Music] this is a cricket and is essentially an x-acto blade attached to a cnc i created a design for the chapter in adobe illustrator and cut it out on the cricut using non-permanent vinyl stickers and shockingly it actually worked out fantastically on the first try which was not what i was expecting at all this tool is absolutely magical and expect to see me using it in the future specifically for cutting thin styrene for terrain it's gonna be awesome with the stencils cut out i had one last bit of surface prep that i was going to do and that was adding some heavy chipping medium to the surfaces where i plan on applying these icons i wanted the icons to be worn and chipped but i also wanted to show the cool gradient i had worked on beneath where the red and gray show through after the armor was sufficiently masked off and my stencils were on i applied my white i tried to go slowly and thinly so as not to flood the surface when i removed the mask i was met with some pretty extreme disappointment i applied too heavy a layer of chipping medium and the paint adhered more to the vinyl than it did to the model luckily for me this was going to be chipped anyways and with some white paint and a paint brush i could add more of the sword back that i wanted with that lesson learned i applied a diluted version of the chipping medium to the next shoulder pad and had a lot more success one nice side effect about having chipping medium down where i wanted to apply these stencils was that i could essentially wipe away any spots that were accidents like it leaked past the masking with some brush and some water i tried it yet again without any chipping medium at all with a gear right on top of the hole this sort of stencil is incredibly helpful because painting perfect circles is incredibly difficult without it looking super wonky this third attempt was crispy af if you're planning on doing this even with just normal masks that you might buy from a third party experiment with levels of chipping medium that you apply how long you wait for the medium to dry etc it will all affect your end result lastly i couldn't avoid freehand all together certain designs were too small for the qriket to render at least on my first try so instead of trying to troubleshoot it i just resorted to freehanding the little octopus lightning bolt guy instead if you want to deep dive into freehanding specifically check out a video that i have linked in the top right hand corner and also the description alright that finishes up all the iconography on the night now out of the super fun step weathering [Music] weathering is going to dirty up this model for us but also provide us with some much needed depth to start out however i painted some chips and some dings on the decals and painted logos that i had just added to simulate a chipping effect like i got on the shoulder pads this will be our first level of hiding the fact that these are decals next it's time to pull out the big guns i've never messed around with oil washes before but why not start on the largest model i've ever painted and the last commission everything will be just fine right spoilers everything is actually fine go figure i started by making a mixture of two to one black and brown oil paint to which i added white spirits i don't entirely know what viscosity to shoot for so i just mixed up something that seemed thin enough to apply through an airbrush you can totally apply it with a paintbrush and it works amazingly but i decided to use an airbrush to expedite the process applying an even layer of this stuff over a large surface is very quick with an airbrush and here's a disclaimer this stuff is probably awful to breathe in while i was doing this i was wearing a respirator i had an air purifier running and i had a fan running in an area pointed at a open window i hope that i appease the youtube health police with this grand gesture of safety seriously though this is not water-based acrylic paint you don't want to haphazardly spray it around once it was on and looked like it was dry i began to dab it up with some more white spirits and this makeshift sponge on a stick tool patent pending in an episode of trapped under plastic my co-host john let me know about these eye makeup sponge things that are great for this operation but i didn't have any so i tried to make one and you know what it worked out great the sponge was moistened with white spirits not soaked in it i mostly was swiping toward the recesses on the model so the oil paint would collect there after each part i rinsed out the little sponge in more white spirits and proceeded and it lasted the entire time good job little sponge boy you can remove as much or as little as you want depending on how weathered of an appearance you want what i'm left with is a crusty dirty looking machine the technique worked perfectly to add the depth that i needed while also giving the knight a whole layer of lovely grime to add more weathering i applied straight up brown oil paint to various cracks and creases and then streaked it with a soft non-wet brush to get these nice drips if you want more of a sharper drip line you can use a brush wetted with white spirits both options work they just get you a different effect with that all done i let it sit for a day and then the following morning i sprayed the whole model with a matte varnish you don't necessarily need to do this for oil paint but i wanted to as a final layer over my decals with the chipping the oil wash and the varnish this nicely blends the decals into the surface as a last bit of weathering it was time for some good old faithful chipping that i've shown off in previous videos in all the chips and dings that i added with my dremel i painted in some black to represent a layer of primer showing beneath then with some silver paint i painted inside that black to represent the metal of the armor showing through i probably should have done this before doing the oil paint drips but you know what i forgot and that's okay with all the chips and dings complete i added a pinkish and light gray scratchy edge highlight to most of the edges and also the underside of all the black scrapes that i just added this not only shows off a lot of the cool paneling on the model but it also emphasizes the wear and tear it also gives those little black chips a 3d feel to them like light is hitting the bottom edge of them making the battle damage feel concave lastly i applied some gold highlight to the trim with a sponge which can be a little tricky sometimes the sponge wanted to wrap over the edge of the trim and hit the armor which is obviously something you want to avoid this added a nice highlight to the gold but in a spotty weathered way bonus points because it was pretty easy to do as well i actually finished off the weathering portion of the night that gave us a lot of depth and highlights it's cool how we can essentially kill two birds with one stone adding grit and grime and contrast at the same time now let's finish painting the model itself with a few extra parts we've laid a good groundwork for this mile to look cool from the table top now let's spice it up with some fun details these are the kinds of choices that are like little easter legs for the paint job that people notice as they pick it up and look the model over we'll start with the chest mounted turret i wanted to add some caution stripes to this i think the idea works well because it naturally incorporates our spot color which is yellow without just painting the whole thing yellow i began with a medium gray undercoat and started to build up highlights toward the top and the bottom of this shape that flares out toward the gun barrel then with a combination of yellows as my highlight and oranges as my shadow i sort of wet blend on top of these stripes while the undercoat process wasn't entirely necessary it helps to reach opacity very quickly with yellow and orange once i got the general look complete i added in some weathering by painting some black chips and dings this is a great way to hide any crimes we might have committed by going outside the lines with our yellow or having the lines not even the right widths after that i moved on to adding some grease to what seems like joints and pistons using tamira clear orange i apply little drips this is like the fresh grease to what looks like dirt and buildup that we got with our oil wash weathering is all about having nice variety and a glossy finish for this is a nice contrast to our previous matte attempts for the fleshy connection that we sculpted earlier i started with a normal base coat and wash much like you'd paint any other skin tone i then started a highlight and this is where it got a little funky i mixed in a very light green so the skin tone looked slightly ill and then to ensure that no one had any question about whether or not this skin was healthy i also added in some nasty yellow and green drips from the folds of the flesh i also added in some tiny glass nail art beads to simulate some kind of bubbling lastly we need to do some kind of freehand lettering on a saw blade there was some small scroll work that i added the word vile to because you know chaos on the chest itself however i asked the commissioner what he wanted because this represented the name of the knight itself and he asked for the word carnage while that word is kind of long it has one advantage and that is that it's seven letters or an odd number this means that i can place the n right in the middle of the scroll and work out from there one letter at a time making sure that i size each letter correctly this has the added benefit of not needing to worry about filling the whole scroll as long as it's centered i'm pretty much good to go the black i'm using here is a mixture of black paint and black ink which thins down the black paint nicely so it flows off the brush but also doesn't reduce the opacity of the black as much as something like water might i have a few more details i need to scrape together like these skulls the body i added at the shoulder pad and some other things the end is so close i can feel it for such an epic model we need an equally epic base to represent the scale and mass of this unit in game i wanted to depict the knight crushing a barrier i plotted out approximately where the barrier would go and i made sure that the knight's foot would fit in the opening i began to build up some structure with square styrene stock and then with these supports i could start to adhere sheets of brick texture to it since all these parts are plastic plastic it will work to stick them all together before gluing on the brick texture i removed some bricks like they had popped out due to the strain of the knight's foot next up i added some more structure this time attaching it to the brick wall itself and this allowed me to add some cool metal styrene texture to the top of my wall like a walkway i distressed the edges of this with some clippers and an x-acto knife and then glued it down with some rectangular styrene stock i scored a line down the center of it and widened that line with a triangular file down the length and then this little groove allowed me to glue it on top of the edge of the brick wall this allowed me to kind of hide the fact that these bricks were unrealistically skinny but honestly it doesn't really matter a ton because everyone's going to be looking at the model itself and details like these are kind of the cherry on top with the main structure done i stuffed the insides with mostly tin foil but also milliput on the outside while the putty was still curing i was also able to stuff a bunch of debris into it like cable some of the walkman materials some resin bricks that i have and all sorts of rubble it's important to mention that at multiple points of working on this barrier i always check to see if the knight's foot still fit with the wall squared away i started to add some low points in the base by cutting out holes again with the ball bur bit in my dremel this is fairly messy but it gets the job done on a fairly thick material whereas an exacto would take a lot longer than i care to spend after some basic cleaning with some files and some blades i could trace the perimeter onto some thin styrene below and then adhere to the bottom of my base with a snake of milliput and some super glue then with some pressure i could push the base flat which causes the milliput to squeeze out and with a wetted finger i can bevel this squeeze out to make a nice slope into a shallow little pond with the main structure done i could apply some dirt with some pva glue all over the base add a few extra knick-knacks like skulls bricks and larger rocks and then seal it all in place with some super glue thin now we're ready for some paint i did end up priming this because there are elements that are plastic and resin that might benefit from it but it's not likely necessary i started by applying a nice rich brown color i then built up a few orange colors on the base to cause a vignetting effect toward the center of the base this base was supposed to be a desert which is why i chose these tones initially i also specifically chose scale 75 paints because it dries extra matte which helps enforce the idea this is a arid sandy place while i had the airbrush out i started to base coat the walls as well not carrying too much as some red remained on the bricks i did take some time to base coat some of the other details like the bricks and the large rocks and the metal walkway i applied a quick shade to some of the rubble and the walkway to give them some depth lastly for the little pawns i added some mod podge dimensional magic and a bit of black ink to create this nasty icarus spill to which i added some drops of tamiya clear orange like a little drop of grease and whatever this liquid is supposed to be not shown here is me adding a bunch of desert vegetation and some dry pigments but apparently i was too excited to glue everything together that i forgot to hit record so i guess this brings us finally to the end just kidding i'm a dumbass into the chest freehand upside down let me just quickly redo that and then we can get onto the epic b-roll [Music] [Music] [Music] i don't know why it feels dirty to be proud of your work and also say it out loud but screw it i like feeling dirty anyways i think this thing looks friggin epic gluing it together was absolutely an amazing feeling until of course i realized i did the chest wrong once i fixed that everything was fine it's hard to describe how finishing my last commission feels without sounding like an entitled whiny baby i have no more miniature obligations to anyone and while i realize that i put myself in this position and i am being paid to do this sometimes you commit to things that you end up not wanting to do it's a reality of life whether it's because you're greeny you overestimate your ability you're pressured into it or a mixture of those things and more it just happens i'm the kind of person that can never back down from something that i committed to do no matter how long it takes me so it feels great to finish this project for someone who was relying on it and waiting patiently for me that's all thanks zach below in the comment section for putting up with my schedule i really hope you enjoyed this epic video not all videos are going to be like this but i look forward to being able to do something like this every once in a while before i let you go let me remind you that the maniac 100 000 subscriber charity event is underway and you can buy raffle tickets for each of the four armies that you guys painted the proceeds go to three awesome charities and they're fairly inexpensive raffle tickets so go buy a couple if you're able to or at least go check out the awesome armies this community painted up if you have more cash burning a hole in your pocket and you want to support this channel there are a couple ways you can do that namely a patreon campaign with a bunch of fun rewards like a discord server where you can hang out with me any day of the week and chat about your major painting projects or sculpting phallic things with epoxy sculpt you also get my videos early and you can also watch my stream vods after they're complete alternatively you can buy merch and also miniatures off my website and also digital courses that i made for those miniatures you can buy hobby equipment that i recommend in the description of this video and that's about it subscribe or die but most importantly don't forget wow

Channel: Miniac

Views: 1,048,091

Keywords: miniac, sdub, miniature, painting, miniature painting 101, miniature painting tutorials, games workshop, GW, warhammer, 40k, wh40k, knight, titan, renegade, house atrax, Converting and Painting a RENEGADE KNIGHT!, conversion, converting, sculpting, scenic base, airbrushing, airbrush, oils, oil wash, weathering, magnets, magnetization, renegade knight 40k, magnetizing knight 40k, oil wash miniatures, airbrush oil paint, airbrushing for beginners, airbrush painting

Id: Xph8OGWuCZ4

Length: 37min 22sec (2242 seconds)

Published: Tue Oct 27 2020