Easy Imperial Fists with no airbrush (also new studio!)

if you are full figured many women are afraid of shoulder pads exactly the opposite they make your figure look more important and they balance the body [Music] oh hi there it's been a while guy from midwinter minis here and this is the first video produced in my new studio i'm going to be covering quite a lot of things in this video obviously showing you how to paint imperial fists or any yellow armored thing in pretty fast effective steps creating cool primary size terminators showing you how to use the combo of microsol and microset to make your water slide transfers look beautifully painted on give you a little tour of my studio and talk about the future of midwinter minis if you just want to jump to the part that interests you and that's fine doesn't offend me you'll be able to find time stamps down below so um let me quickly show you around this is my new studio space not everything is final still need to unpack a few things stuff might move but it's a start it's part of a late tudor era building so it's about 400 years old well the timber frames are anyway this is the main room split into a gaming area and a painting area by these big storage shelves this is a custom 6x4 gaming table that simon helped me build he's the guy that played the jean steeler cults in their death match game and provided loads of cool junk for my scrap great gargant but he's also a design technology teacher so this was a real walk in the park room he did generously let me do some screwing and chopping though i'm amazed he trusted me with power tools it's nice and high to get great filming angles has a little lip so dice won't roll off and loads of storage underneath i think i'm gonna paint the whole thing black but i do quite like it as raw wood what do you think i should do there's some storage over here some speakers so i can listen to music while i work or play games and some cool warhammery artwork on the walls the second edition cover naturally and these original paintings by dougwood s very cool indeed loads of storage as i said also acting as a room divider of sorts paint rack spray cans bigger bottles of painty stuff hanging tools and extra bits and bobs on the wall my painting desk is here with space in front of it too so i can film from loads of different angles should i need to i need to put up some shelves or little storage cubbies for these bits and bobs that are still on the floor really but we'll get there i do however have an enormous midwinter minis wool sticker how cool is that [Music] a cheeky little ikea cabinet with about 10 of my orcs and my sandstone necrons also i couldn't forget a bed for this little monster so that's the main room and then it's also got this little back room that i'm using as the editing studio this is my old painting desk a secondhand solid wood dining table but it was covered in paint obviously i gave it the sanding of its life i was pretty happy with the results but people on instagram seemed more interested in the shape of the sander they said it was pretty [ __ ] and ballsy but nah that's just your dirty minds anyway now the table's all set up and i'm starting to treat the room for reasonable sound quality not done quite yet but we're getting there this is also where the parts for the deathmatch arena are chilling out until i sort out proper storage a little kitchenette for hot drinks and paint water and a porcelain throne fit for the emperor himself so that's the studio so far still a work in progress but i'm sure you'll see how things change in future videos for now though let's get painting shall we painting imperial fists or just yellow armor in general in fast effective steps is one of the most requested topics i see from you in the comments so i thought i would give it a go for me imperial fists always look best when they're big chunky models dreadnoughts vehicles and huge infantry and they don't come much chunkier than terminators i love terminator models i've made a few videos on them already and i've got a very special one planned for the future but in the age of primaris adeptus astartes these old bottles lack a bit of that menacing stature that they used to have when standing next to the classic firstborn space marines i want some terminators for 2022. so i'm going to grab this little box right here these are the fallen knights in heavy armor made by a small independent miniature maker called tortuga bay studios this video isn't sponsored in any way i'm not being paid i just really like the models fyi they're now called galaxy saturn heavy squad on their website just in case you can't find them a very small minimal box with snugly packed models inside unpacked you've got five bodies six heads five pairs of arms with a spare in an alternate pose ludicrously big pauldrons five optional shoulder mounted guns and five forty millimeter bases no frills just exactly what you need to build the models with minimal fuss that's what i like to see and the backs of the torsos look like one of dr robotnik's contraptions pretty cool now these are obviously heavily inspired by jez goodwin's first terminator prototype which is nicknamed the saturnine terminator there were three original prototypes before games workshop settled on the design the bob naismith cobra which i painted up in a recent video and the jez goodwin saturnine and steve models now i know that this reimagination of that old design has been very tastefully done but i just don't really like the heads to be fair i don't like the head of the original it just makes me think of what teenage mutant ninja turtles would look like in power armor i could swap them out i suppose use some spare sargent heads to go with the one that comes in the box but i personally think having super power armored space warriors without helmets is a bit stupid so let's try something else oh yes now this i like terminator heads are already so iconic i think that it would be a nice way to tie this retro style design together with their current angry hippo helmet design the only problem is i've only got one spare terminator head in my bits box am i really gonna go out and buy a box of terminators just for the heads you betcha to be fair i was in a bit of a rush to get this video made buying some spare heads on ebay would have been way more sensible and given that you can get a spare set of terminator heads for about five dollars and these tortuga bay models of fifty dollars that pretty much is the same price as buying an actual terminator box from games workshop not unreasonable now before i start sticking everything together i need to trim off the mold connection points and tidy up a few very small mold lines here and there i like that these have been prepped a bit before being sent as it obviously keeps the box small and the shipping weight to a minimum these models are made of resin so i'll give them a quick bath in warm soapy water and a gentle scrub with a toothbrush to remove any mold release residue so the primer and paint stick properly plastic cement is no good for resin models so instead i'll just be using regular rolls super glue to fit nicely in the neck socket i needed to file off these little nubby bits at the side of their helmets head in arms on they look pretty badass just like this actually but let's get those crazy huge pauldrons on and stick them to their bases before i prime them i'm going to add some detail to the bases too like they're wading through some destroyed industrial building or something i cut up some clock bits and found a few random plastic spares for my bits box to stick on the bases and to tie everything together i'll use some of this vallejo texture paste after applying it and before the paste dries i also sprinkled on a bit of sand to add some variation to the paste particle size here we go five enormous very menacing primary size terminators ready for priming and paint like usual i stuck them to some plastic shot glasses with blue tack and primed them all over in grey once that was dry i then sprayed them with white in an arc from above so the top facing parts are brighter than the undersides i'm not using any fancy gw spray cans or airbrush here just plastic primer for cars i mean it works now surprise surprise given that i'm in england in the winter it was actually raining outside when i primed my models in my doorway and i think this model may have been splashed a little bit because the primer dried a bit weird no problem just gently file it off and we use some brush on primer to fix it now the color isn't exactly the same but it won't matter too much for the end result as i'll be putting transfers on over this raised area anyway right then sitting comfortably ready to learn the absolute best model paint for getting smooth yellow in a single coat it's not model paint it's not actually even a paint it's acrylic ink cadmium yellow is what you're after now this is synthetic cadmium yellow it doesn't actually have any cadmium in it and that's awesome for two reasons first real cadmium yellow paint is crazy expensive and second this stuff won't kill you brush lickers beware real cadmium will poison you if you ingest it headaches nausea vomiting abdominal cramps diarrhea fever and death heavy metal poisoning is not fun anyway i thinned down this ink with an equal quantity of water i find this 5050 mix to be the perfect balance between getting good coverage strong color but without the thickness to clog up details and then i just painted this all over the models it's a little bit transparent so the darker gray primed arrows will be a little bit shadowed and the white primed areas will be really vibrant it tends to bubble a bit as you paint it on especially if you're using a huge brush like me but don't worry these pop before they dry so just crack on and get the base coats down as fast as you can okay so this is just one coat it's pretty impressive huh you can actually really see the difference in color from the bit i manually primed with the brush on stuff here so getting a nice smooth bright priming step nailed first of all is really important for using this technique now the base coat's sorted let's do some quick dirty shading using whatever brown wash you like i'm using chestnut ink wash from coat dams dilute it to make it less strong just like the ink i mixed it 50 50 with water to reduce its staining ability now check this out due to the slightly hydrophobic surface that the dried ink creates and the low surface tension of the wash it really seeks out all those cracks and crevices i still avoid washing this all over big smooth surfaces but you can be pretty free and easy over pretty much the whole model as always if it pulls too much dry off your brush on something and then use the dryer brush to wick away the excess and that way you won't get left with the weird tide marks once it's dry and once it has dried it'll look like this a very subtle shading effect without dirtying down that yellow base coat too much to add a little bit more contrast you can add a drop or two of your favorite black wash into the diluted brown wash we just used and with a little bit more care maybe with a smaller brush try to panel line any key areas that look a little bit bland and be a bit sparing though as this will stain more than the brown wash and look a bit more stark here's what just the brown wash on the left looks like compared to the brown and then darker brown black mix on the right edging towards a bit too dirty but we can tidy up the sloppy bits later just a quick tip if you make up too much wash that you don't use in your current project tip it out into a big container and keep it for another project i use this old peanut butter tub any and all colors go into this because i mostly just use it for quickly shading terrain and big projects now to add a bit of variation to the yellow i switched out to a regular yellow model paint deep yellow from vallejo is a pretty good one and roughly dry brushed and stippled all over the model's armor plates being vaguely careful not to go too deeply into any recesses but this yellow paint like all yellow paints is pretty transparent so you don't have to be that careful and you can totally skip this step if you can't be bothered next up we'll base coat the things that we want to be dark like the twin bolters and some of the pipes rather than go for just straight black which is maybe just a bit too dark to contrast against yellow i'm going to use german grey by vallejo which is effectively an off black like pale sand is and off white and this will make things a little bit more subtle and complementary now this is one of the few steps you do have to be quite careful with though because if you make any mistakes and let it dry it'll be a real pain to recreate that smooth yellow again instead immediately wash off any mistakes with a moist brush dry the area off and try again if you really want you can also base coat the under armour that shows through the crotch and on some of the knees but that would be very fiddly to get on these models in particular so for the sake of speed i'm gonna skip that now let's think about bases for a second the regular complementary colors for yellow are red and blue which might be a bit strange for a base instead let's use the split complementary of blue violet i reckon that'll be pretty striking to create a nice base coat i use one of my favorite colors signal blue this paint's pretty thin but the color it creates is worth a couple of coats now to add a violet tinge i'm going to apply some vallejo red a very deceptively named paint using my airbrush just to see if i've set it up right after moving to the new studio you can totally do this with a brush obviously but while i wait for that to dry let's talk transfers if you've ever owned any warhammer models ever chances are you've got one of these space marine transfer sheets hiding in a drawer somewhere these imperial fist icons are almost the perfect size for the round areas on the pauldrons so let's slice those off and moisten them up to make sure these transfers look super professional i'm going to use the ultimate combo of decal products microsol and microset if you're unfamiliar they're kind of like dark hobby witchcraft let me show you how to use them instead of moistening the target area on the model with water to apply the transfer like you usually would we'll moisten it instead with micro set this will help you guessed it set the transfer in place and stop it ever flaking position the transfer carefully like you usually would and then when it's in the right position give it another very thin coat of micro set over the top and leave it to completely dry 30 minutes or so should be fine now we've got a very fixed transfer let's soften it and smooth it out using microsoft apply a bit using a brush like we did with the microset and leave it for about 20 seconds to help it soften and then using a cotton bud start gently pressing down on the transfer if it's a big decal start in the middle and work your way out rolling rather than pushing and all those wrinkles and kinks should flatten out before your eyes it is quite amazing leave it to settle for 10 minutes or so maybe work on other transfers while you're waiting and then go back to it and see if the transfer is as flat as you want if it's still got some creases or kinks repeat the process and you'll soon achieve that ultra flat painted on look in no time the transfer will still look a bit shiny but we can knock that back with a bit of matte medium or varnish later for the other pauldron i'm going to use these encircled skulls very 40k but uh no wait a second the circles are a different size ah that is annoying off you come stupid transfer let's try the normal white skulls from the same decal sheet yeah there we go nice now while i wait for those transfers to set and dry i dry brushed a bit of squid pink onto the bases just to catch some of the nice raised details and accentuate some of the random scatter junk amongst the dirt i then grabbed that vallejo red again diluted it heavily with water and painted onto just the dirt parts avoiding the junk and that way it'll gently tint it so the different areas of the bases will have their own colour space light armors like yellow and white look really good with a bit of chipping so to quickly achieve a cool chipped battered effect i'll use a dark brown paint and a random piece of foam ripped from some packing material just put some of that brown paint on your palette dab your foam into it and then dab off the excess onto some card or paper and then just gently tap the sharp edges of the foam against random areas of the model to make it look extra realistic try to imagine where things would have been bashed against the soldier on corners edges or on shields and guards apply a bit less on some models a bit more to others try to add a bit of variety but don't overthink it once that's dry and you're happy with the effect switch out to your brightest silvery metallic paint and using a small brush just tap a few dots in the middle of the biggest chunkiest sponge marks you just applied this will hint that the paint of the armor has been smashed off revealing the metal underneath you don't have to bother with all the little chips maybe they weren't deep enough to penetrate to the metal but try to add a bit of silver in the middle of all the really big ones we can also add a bit more detail to that damage as well as generic armor highlights by creating a yellow tinged off-white you can get a very usable yellow armor highlight color by mixing pale sand and deep yellow in equal parts pale sand adds the opacity and strength you need while deep yellow obviously ties it in with the existing armor colour for the armor highlights just a few edge highlights using the edge of your brush angled at 45 degrees across the edge of the armor plate hence it being called edge highlighting a quick smooth stroke and you're done it doesn't have to be laborious and you do not have to highlight every single edge focus instead on the top facing most obvious areas there's no point in doing any of the hard to reach parts or low down things like the boots because that's not where your eye is drawn to on the model this is midwinter minis we are all about maximum effect for minimum effort so for example like here on the hand just a little dash on the top of the hand down the armor split and then a couple of touches at the top of two fingers and that's it it really adds that extra contrast to your eye craves though we can also use the color to imply stress fractures dents scuffs and scrapes too just a few random marks lines or jaggedy crack patterns here and there will be fine less is definitely more when you do stuff like this just one or two bits of freehand damage per model is more than enough to add an extra 3d effect to the brown chips we just made you can also apply a tiny bit of this yellow highlight beneath any really prominent chips to imply that light is hitting the top of the chip paint and hinting that the damaged metal is really set beneath that paint again simple and quick but really effective while that yellow highlight mix is still wet on our palette we're gonna paint the eyes the terminator eyes are notoriously tricky to paint because they are quite shallow and they're also awkwardly positioned for your brush using a small brush and a dark red paint cornread in this case i base coated the lens i got a bit on the helmet under the eyes yeah but we can fix that in a minute i mix in a bit of yellow to that red to create a mid-tone color and painted it on a little bit more precisely in the middle of the eyes avoiding the edges where the darker red will be left behind and then to create a nice shiny effect to finish it off a tiny dot of white or off-white on the outer edges of each lens it doesn't have to be insanely small or precise just a tiny tap will do and those lenses look pretty good already because we've still got that yellow highlight color wet on the palette we can quickly tidy up any mistakes we made just sharpen up the bottom edge nice and neat to keep things simple but interesting with the bolters and pipes i'll mix up an off-white but with a blue tinge keeping things colourful rather than boring old greyscale mixing shadow grey and pale sand together will give you a really beautiful pastel blue and i dry brush that carefully over the bolters and the pipes on the shoulders and the backs using the edge of my brush so as not to stain that lovely yellow armor i also just realized that the bolters have cool sights on them so i applied the same lens effect that i did on the eyes but this time as i had more space to work with i highlighted to the left side and then i applied the off-white highlight dot to the right side pretty tasty okay the final few touches now for the pipy bits on the helmet's mouth area i'll base coat it with gun metal from vallejo and then shade it with some black wash the same wash that i used to add to the dirty shade we made right at the start now let's dull down those transfers to match the sheen of the rest of the model i used larmy and medium but as i said any matte medium or varnish will work fine just a couple of thin coats should knock off that glossy finish now for a totally optional extra if you prefer your yellow armor to have a warmer tinge you can use a red wash or a glaze thinned with a bit of water very sparingly to tint the bottom areas of large armor plates remembering always to use downward strokes so the intensity of the colour builds up towards the bottom of the armor as you can see this is super thin and will dry in a very subtle way but it really adds a final fun pop of color and richness this one doesn't have it and this one has it it's really nice huh very subtle but so worth it for the practically zero effort it takes last of all i'll give the rims a couple of thin coats of my favorite deep purple color vallejo royal purple so [Music] if you've watched my videos for a while you know i don't have a proper space marine army i just paint a few here and there but if i was to choose a chapter to start collecting i reckon it would be imperial fists they're fun to paint they really stand out on the table top and they have a silly name what's not to love now what do you think reckon you might want to try out some imperial fists now you know the secret to easy yellow armor without an airbrush well that about wraps it up for this tutorial but before i go if you've got a minute i just want to quickly chat about the future of midwinter minis now don't get worried i'm not going to stop making videos anytime soon i've got this cool new office space and i want to make the most of it but therein lies the issue in all of my videos i've basically just tried to document my own hobby and share tips that i've learned or figured out i mean i do occasionally make silly over-the-top content to entice new subscribers but the vast majority of my videos are painting tutorials battle reports and hobby tips and tricks and that's not gonna change in the video i made after i terminated my games workshop nda a few years ago i said that i didn't want to have special treatment and that i just wanted to be a nerd a hobbyist like you i'll be a nerd with a camera now that hasn't changed but honestly i'm now in a very lucky position where i have this cool studio to dedicate to making interesting entertaining and educational videos for you it's an incredibly fortunate position to be in and i'm not going to take that for granted and even though things are growing and the scope of midwinter minis is changing and expanding i'm not going to take you for granted whether you've been watching since the sandstone necrons video the blackstone fortress series or literally just discovered the channel today i'm gonna do all i can to keep making the same honest straightforward and accessible content as i always have it makes me incredibly happy to do it and i really hope you find joy in it too if you're interested in supporting the channel supporting me the best way to do it is on patreon even joining for just two dollars a month is the equivalent of watching 600 midwinter minis videos all the way through every month in terms of the ad revenue the channel generates and on top of the other little benefits polls and discord access new signups get their names read out so here's this month's new members brazarius sandwich man 32 random dude 13 michael jacob colstrom kevin richmond luca niederhauser francesco neski vendulla yujikova skarsnik matfield mike lorad nick tim martin page scott thornton sean raven michael hoyle piper lover jared tu badger victor martinez cole nergal daddy not papa stuart bushnell baron von stiglitz sharp and shiny forge master minis and garen ferreira thank you so much for watching and i'll catch you next time bye for now [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Midwinter Minis

Views: 283,346

Keywords: how to paint imperial fists, imperial fists, paint yellow armour, yellow armor, paint yellow, how to paint yellow, yellow warhammer, yellow space marines

Id: KNVznWghFWU

Length: 26min 13sec (1573 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 28 2022