Sharpening Drill Bits Lisle Grinder TIPS 466 pt1 tubalcain

howdy once again is tubal-cain your YouTube shop teacher also known as mr. P - - - and in this video and the following one I'm going to show you how to sharpen double drill bits with the Lyle number 91,000 drill bit grinder there's the direction so you'll need the directions or just watch this video but you can also download the directions from the Lyle website they'll also need some drill gauges like that a can full or box full of dull drill bits and every machine shop has hundreds of dull bits don't we stay with me if you haven't already watched them check out these five videos or our restore the Lyle drill grinder let me caution you before we start that a grinder is always dangerous with the grit and the spark so make sure you wear your safety glasses use this safety shield although I will be taking this off for clarity but I will be wearing a face shield and I recommend you wear a face shield and/or goggles when you're doing this you just can't be safe enough you can't gamble your eyes but the very first thing we're going to do and then the dust and the sparks really fly is to dress the wheel and the purpose of dressing the wheel even though this is almost a brand new wheel is to shape it and to sharpen it and yes a grinding wheel does get dull so the first thing we do is take the actual fixture off that hold the drill bits set that off to the side and this is the diamond it's brand new still has the protective cover on that's the actual diamond nib right there and all we're gonna do is move that back and forth across the wheel and it fits right in the split fixture here and notice that there is a groove here or an index mark that lines up with the index mark on this aluminum split fixture here by the way as I use this grinder you'll see that there might be differences between this one and the one that you have for instance many of the more recent models are hexagon here rather than round but I simply take the diamond fixture here install it line up the index marks and tighten the bolt and some of these will have a square bolt here or they might even have hex key type bolt a cap screw so I'll tighten that down real well this knurled knob is the feeds through that moves the diamond in and out and then with this lever we're going to move the diamond back and forth slowly across the wheel taking very very light cuts just a little bit at a time make sure the diamond is not touching the wheel and then I can turn the motor on so now the wheel is Square and sharp and ready to use there are no grooves in it now if you've got grooves you want to take the grooves all the way out the next thing I'm going to do and I hate to do it because I think it's a bad example but I am going to remove the guard simply for the purposes of photography but I will be wearing my full face shield as I do this demonstration the Lyle grinder is not all that hard to use but there was a definite learning curve and you need to practice it with it as well you're probably going to have some bad rinds to start with and be sure and watch the previous video on the geometry of the drill breath so you know what to be looking for as you grind the bits now there are a lot of adjustments to make most of them are on this fixture that holds the drill bit as we install this into the split clamp here there's a groove and this is a ball detent so upon assembling this I can feel it when the ball hits the roof this whole device here is called the feed bracket but it consists of several parts right here we have the feed and that's what moves the drill bit in and out from the wheel it also was used for the diamond dresser we can lock it in a given position and there's a little spring-loaded collar here I'll talk more about that in just a minute and then of course we have the lever here that moves it back and forth across the wheel the entire feed bracket here can be moved back and forth in this large slot but on this particular model I have to get at it from underneath and there's a nut with holes in it and I use a punch to loosen that up and this can be moved back and forth depending on the diameter of the drill bit now I'm going to start out with half inch drill bits and I have it adjusted for that but you can see there's some little witness marks here that I have marked and that's probably for when we're grinding larger drill bits than what we're going to start out with here so I'm going to be grinding half inch bits and then back down to quarter inch and then up to three quarters or or one inch or so something in that neighborhood the capacity of the machine is anywhere between eighth inch drill bits and inch and a quarter but I suggest you stay away from small drill bits throw them away they are disposable they are consumable and do not bother with anything under quarter inch unless you have very good eyes and a lot of patience I have tipped the entire machine on a side or tilted it up just a little bit so I can show you something but on most of these machines there will be a sticker right here this one has the number stamped on it remember this is a particularly old machine it probably is one of the earlier ones but someone has marked this over the years with a V and there's your witness mark right there and that is the 59 degree mark it doesn't agree with the original stamped one and there's some other marks on here I don't know what they're for but possibly for special drill bits that they were grinding in that shop wherever this came from so what you have to do here is to loosen up this half inch bolt or whatever bolt yours has and set it for 59 degrees but more than likely yours will be already set on 59 because 90% or 95% of everybody that uses these will be grinding their drill bits at the most common angle which is 59 degrees so that's the very first thing to check alright my first grind is going to be this poorly ground and dull half inch drill bit so I need to set the fixture for a half inch bit and there are several things that you need to do here and we'll start by adjusting this for the size so loosen up this half inch bolt it may vary on yours that allows this to swing back and forth but the first thing we'll do is to loosen up this little screw and this isn't a but for the angle of the lip clearance and there's really three positions here the top one way up there if you can see it is for grinding an 18 degree clearance angle well that's way too steep way down at the bottom is for only six degrees that would be for large or bets like one-inch bits but we're right about in the middle for a half inch bit and I will tighten that down and next well I still have this bolt loose you're gonna find that there's a sticker on the top here it's kind of hard to read I would like to replace it but you can see that there's a half-inch there so I'll set the witness mark right on the half and tighten this down with the wrench and then it's set for half and that probably will work for bits that are just a little bit above or below a half inch as well and you can see again here at the capacity eighth up two inch and a quarter first let me explain something every one of these grinders came with a little magnetic gauge they were a little usually lost the first day I do not have one but I took an old penny here I drilled a hole and put a pin in there and in the original the brass pin there would be a magnet and on one side the magnet stuck out 1/8 of an inch on the other side three thirty-seconds of an inch and the purpose of that was to set right on the guide here with the magnet that would hold it in place and bring the drill bit up to the gauge and there is a picture of that but I'm going to teach how to use this without this gauge because it's something that gets lost and I think just by common sense you can get along without it otherwise you've got to buy a whole bag of them because you're gonna lose them I suppose I might as well show you this right now it's in the direction but there is the little gauge with the man's finger on it right here and that's being held up to the tip of the drill bit if you can tell that it's pretty hard to see but we would use the 332nd side of it for bits up to 3/8 of an inch and we would flip it over to the other side the eighth inside four bits that are over three eighths and that distance is really fairly important and it will change depending on how much you've brined off the end of the bit now how badly damaged the bit is now this drill bit isn't a too bad of a condition but if you have a drill bit that is badly damaged and you need to remove part of it yet ought to be done on the off hand grinder not on the Lyell drill grinder otherwise you're going to have to reposition the drill bit many times in this fixture but again here's how to make the adjustments now for this half inch bit now when we get ready to grind a bit if you have one that is badly damaged or dull and it's it's just ruined clear down here you need to grind that off in the offhand grinder otherwise you have to reposition it too many times in the Lyle grinder but the first thing we have to do here with this lip stop is loosen up these two screws I've already done that and swing it all the way to the right now I've taken a sharpie and I made that mark there but there is a little scratch a little groove made it from the factory it was hard to see so I just highlighted it now I will loosen the clamp here and rotate the drill so that the lip is parallel with that black line then it can be I can snug it up now this will move in and out depending on the size of the drill bit gotta loosen that up just a little bit got it moves in and out and then when I swing it over to touch the edge of the drill bit here I want to just barely catch it that's a little bit too much so I'll back it off so it's just touching and then I'll tighten this screw and make sure that both of these screws are tight the purpose again of this little magnet gauge was to check to see if it laid right there that the drill bit was sticking up an eighth of an inch now this is over 3/8 diameter so you can see I have approximately 1/8 of an inch sticking up over the little gauge right here now looking at the bottom here I bring a stop up against and tighten it and I would make an adjustment here if it was needed but that's just to support it so get it about in that position right there for real small drill bits we would reverse this and this pin would come up for perhaps a 3/16 drill bit because those bits are so short and for real short bits you might have to remove this intermediate guide let me review this real quickly because this is a difficult concept I do have the clamp tightened but after I grind the first lip then I will loosen the clamp you have to take the fixture out to do this rotate it 180 degrees and with the clamp just snug bring it up against and then you will have repeatability and both lips the same and all the time the end of the shank is touching the stop now what I showed you Masek seem complicated but you can do it in a matter of a minute or so now with the drill bit in position here we can assemble it feel that click in find a spot on the wheel where you're going to work and position it such that none of the get a guide here or a portion of the jig is going to hit the wheel and self-destruct now we can move in and when you will get close I can see I need to move it out here a little bit and that's the position that I'm going to work in right there I'm fairly close to the wheel now I'm going to turn the machine on get my face guard on and here we go and now the course which they've completed on 1 July for the next look but before I do let's look down here and remember I've been feeding in with this aisle before I back it out I will lock it and there's a spring-loaded collar here and you'll see that that stays in position so I back that way out so that I can remove the drill bit looking good might be a little excessive relief and I bring it in again right do that little finger till I feel it touch tighten it and again I'm down on the stop here reinsert it I'm ready to grind this side this lip you cannot see what my left hand is doing but I'm constantly moving this in just a little bit to move the drill bit into the grinder but I will feel it when it hits the stop collar and I know that I am done and can take the drill bit out now I'll think of all don't look at it alright here it is and it's kind of a rusty drill bit but it looks very good both lips are even be very careful you don't overheat your a little bit and turn it blue or lose the temper using the 59° age here you can see that I'm just about on I'm going to take this out to the comparator here in a minute the shadowgraph and that the clearance this is set for six degrees the clearance is approximately six degrees that's not a good protractor to check it with but it's a little clumsy and now checking the chisel point with 135 degree protractor you can see I got a lot of shadow there that I'm pretty close okay nice I think I said it already both lips are equal and that everything gets cleaned up now if you weren't able to clean it up that as you'll see some of the old material still there and I thought on the heel it doesn't really matter but for your own satisfaction you might want to make it look like this one let's go out to the shadowgraph we're at the sure Tamiko optical comparator and there's the drill bit and rather than put the gauge up here which was kind of difficult because I can't get the correct focus because they're different distances away focal lengths vary so I'm doing it down here on the screen with a transparency let me turn the house lights off looking on the screen now this is really just a shadow that's why they call our shadow graph of the point of the drill bit and I made up a gauge some of these comparators have angles on here and right a fact this one does but not 118 degrees so I had to make this off and you can see that it's pretty well coincides and you know the Lyle drill grinder is a nice machine but I would say that it's still not the quality of the drill bit grinders that they would use at Cleveland twist drill but you can see that I'm pretty darn close to the 118 and I made another gauge as well but I think the transparency works better now you're not going to have a comparator at home I know but I'm doing this just for the fun of it as you go through your drill bits and recondition them some of them are going to have shanks that are all marred and torn up like this don't take them to the grinder or even the belt sander put them into your three jaw Chuck like this just takes a minute remember the shank is soft compared to the other end and give them a quick filing and you're just trying to get the high spots off not the low spots in the holder I have another 1/2 inch drill bit in need of sharpening and I'm going to do it but this will be all sped up but that way you can watch what both of my hands are doing I've already moved the lever in so that the drill bit is in the right position on the wheel and generally we work toward the left side on the warren on the smaller drill bits and that causes a great deal of wear really well because we're not using the other side after all tasted a and Here I am on the other side you and there's another one it looks good notice there's no discoloring that has no blue color from overheating make sure you use the right grade of wheel recommended by Lyle and that concludes this episode on using the Lyle drill grinder tune in for the next episode where I will drain both smaller bits and larger bits than the half inch thanks for watching you

Channel: mrpete222

Views: 42,885

Rating: 4.9448276 out of 5

Keywords: lathe, mrpete222, craftsman lathe, lyle peterson, bridgeport mill, darex

Id: 0HuWFHUDBos

Length: 24min 0sec (1440 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 16 2018