Drill Sharpening - The Finished Tool for 4 Facet Drill Grinding

[Music] hello viewers um welcome or welcome back maybe to my home workshop um and in this video i want to build on the work that i did in the previous one creating the prototype for the four facet drill sharpening guide and turn it from a prototype into a useful tool hopefully one that's going to give some long-term use this guy in fact but before i dive into that i'd like to just take the opportunity to remind or maybe advise that i'm not a trained machinist and i'm not even a particularly experienced machinist but and so please don't don't take the techniques and methods that i show in my videos as being the be all and end-all or the gospel of how these things should be done it's just what i've learned from my own experience um i guess so you could call me a jack-of-all-trades master of none that sort of old sore but i've certainly learned from my mistakes i've made plenty of them and really i'm offering these videos as a resource it's a set of ideas and suggestions really for how you might tackle some of the problems that um that i face when i'm tinkering around in my workshop but anyway let's get into this second video on the on the the jig and uh i hope you enjoy it so one of the issues i have with my lash up is that the the exhaust pipe bracket that's holding the supporting this and acting as a column isn't very stiff and also i think there's a bit of movement with the um right angled uh sorry with the 45 degree bend piece of flat and you can see that it's quite easy to introduce a bit of movement at the the drill trip and of course that's exaggerated further when there's a drill there so i want to change the way the the drill support channel is supported with a much more rigid column and that's what i'm going to do now got an idea on how i'm going to do that so i'm going to cobble something up and come back and one of the other things i want to do is to replace this wheel with this guy he um it's a much finer grit of stone so i think should give a better surface finish uh i don't know whether i can see on here what the grit is i have to look it under magnifying glass i think to read that anyway should be simply enough thing to do have to use my special little um two pin spanner i'd already loosened that so i didn't bump the camera all right in the longer term i make more than one of these pieces that fit onto a taper in the back of the spindle here so it's possible to take the stones on and off without them losing their their position once you've got the balance right [Music] a bit of a fiddle getting the nut started there all right so that was the probably the easiest modification okay so i've made the uh a base and uh an upright has just two bits of um 25 by 25 square tube welded together um made up a new um t-bolt to hold it because i need a bit longer made life hard for myself as well because i was using or matched the um the previous t-bolt which is a 10 mil thread i drilled 10 mil holes went to make the um thing the t-bolt and realized it's going to be a bit tricky because of the the width here there's just not enough room for a 10 mil thread so i finished up making a double ended stud it's 10 mil m10 on this end an m8 on the other end a little messing around anyway it's done now so we can put that on there i'll give myself three holes to give them a bit of adjustment possibilities so that's good and um so it's getting all set to uh to mount this on this probably needs to be shortened you also mount that on there and i thought well hang on a minute this this piece here is a little bit uh i think that's where some of the movements coming from this thing twisting so i've got to do something a bit better than that so a a bit more thinking to do how to um make the connection between these two pieces um as stiff as i would like it to be or as yeah stiff i suppose inflexible anyway so i've got a bit more bit more thinking to do okay so i've given a bit of thought to what i can do to replace this bracket um it's quite thin as you see in it and i can see it twists so one option is to use a bit of three mil thick material something like that and box the sides in a little bit i'm sure that would um stiffen it up um i don't know how much it would stiffen it up though probably enough so that's definitely an option another option is i've got a bit of 20 mil thick plate here i could basically mill this shape out um from from solid um seems a little bit uh ott but i'm sure you get the job done so that's definitely an option i know i can do it last option is to make one of these same pieces but from eight mil thick bar and i've got a 30 ton press so i've never tried to bend this sort of stuff in that way before but uh it would be quick and easy if it worked so that's what i'm going to try first okay so i've got the bar in the in the bending jig and i'll be able to use the original piece as a um a template to get the bending angle correct so as you can see it's only taking about five tons to do the business which is pretty good so better check the bending angle before we go any further and we we're actually getting pretty close we got a bit more a little bit more so as that's sitting now it's about right but i expect there's some spring in the metal so we go just a touch further i think actually that's about spot on now so just a touch more okay that's looking pretty close so i think we'll take it out and have a butcher's as they say so i'd say that's pretty close to the mark i like to check this with um check this with a proper angle gauge now and see what it looks like so um as i think you can see here we do in fact need to go just a little bit more so we'll put it back in there and see if we can get a i don't know three degrees or something a bit more anyway all right so make sure we get it back in square that's a bit better so i'll put this back in as a as a guide just as a visual guide all right give it another couple of kadunkadunks [Music] and i think that's got it back to where it's under load looks like there's a bit of play in the system that's got to be taken out right that definitely moved still a bit more i reckon all right let's see how that looks and yes i think we're now a bit too far the other way okay so i did actually go slightly past the required angle and had to come back but it was a quick stab with the press to do that so i think you'll be able to see i hope you can that the angle now is exactly spot on um certainly as good as i was hoping to get and um i'll i'll set up another shot in the check and uh just show you that it's uh we got right on 45 but um i was quite impressed with the way the press did it um it's made a very clean tidy job of it quite a sharp angle really and it never broke into a sweat never went over five tons so i realized that there was a better way to show that we got exactly the right angle this 45 degree square shows it pretty clearly i think so very happy with that okay well um i've made up now um the heavy duty version of this guy i think you can tell the difference um so i've tidied it up put some holes in it tapped two of them and it's uh good to go on here now so that all goes together according to plan i might put another hole further up there yet to minimize the drill overhang from the pivot point that might might also help to reduce unwanted movement and twisting and so on anyway so that that bit's all good to go now i've um uh drilled the hole in a cross hole in here so we can put a bolt through there butter fingers i'll set this up so that um this face here is in rough alignment with the the angle that it will normally have to maximize the support in this direction and minimize the the twist that was the whole driver for this change anyway so that will go on to the uh onto the grinder now and it'll be interesting to see how much stiffer that is i think it's gonna be a lot stiffer so i've got to now make the um revised piece for doing the the in feed of the drill so that's the next bit okay so what i had intended to do was to replace this block with something that's a bit like what i did for the indexing pointer on the ar5 which involved a left hand thread and an index ring with marks on it and so on it's a bit of work doing that it's easy enough it's a bit of work so what i thought i'd do first is just exhaust the possibilities of a really simple solution so i'll put a little arm on a longer screw here and that's just threaded and lock tightened on and what you'll see is that even with this limited um arc of operation we still get 30 thousandths of an inch of um pushing the drill out off the end of the channel and i think that's actually going to be enough so what i can do is without knowing exactly how much move it a little bit lock it a little bit more lock it a little bit more lock it and i'm only getting a couple of thousandths of an inch at a time doing that and i honestly think that's going to be good enough i mean it was so easy to do it's got to be worth a try anyway so that's where i'm at but what i also want to do is to put a cap on the end of this uh thread here uh so i'll have a disc that's uh the biggest disc that'll happily fit within this groove and that'll be what bears on the end of the drill will bear on that disc so i won't have to worry about moving this screw into a different uh height of hole it'll accommodate just about anything i think in one go and what i've got in mind is to have a disc with a threaded boss on the back and for the threaded boss to be long enough that it will give me a bit of additional adjustment here so if i do happen to exhaust the um the 25 mil the 30 hour movement i've got here on a given draw a given sharpening i can reset it using pushing this out but i'm achieving all of this movement of the drill towards the stone by sliding the drill within the groove which is the object object of this whole exercise so we don't lose the alignment of the cutting lips being horizontal so over to the lathe to make this threaded cap i found myself a piece of scrap i'll be able to um turn the end down on that it's 25 od so it's a lot of the way there already myself a little shop drawing here just for the dimensions that i'm wanting to get all of the dimensions are pretty uh approximate it really doesn't matter very much it's just fairly nominal we've got the od here already so want to reduce this piece down to 13. i think we'll go with 600. [Music] we'll start with a one millimeter depth of cut just to clear some of that thread out the way come back for another one one millimeter deep depth of cut so now now we clear the threads we'll check what we've got it's 19.5 we want to get down to 13. let's see how we go with the two millimeter depth of cut [Applause] oh that went all right we'll speed it up a bit now the diamond is getting down a bit 15. so we've got uh yeah 50 now we've got about two millimeters to come off so we'll take a one millimeter depth of cut this time so so that should be somewhere near where we need to be 13 and a half so we've got another 0.25 to come off this will be a final cut slightly warm now only looking for approximately 13. guess it's not a bad approximation all right now get this boss to length again the 20 approximately will be good enough try and do this without getting in the way of the camera leave just a little for facing off all right i'll chop it off there looks like i lost the center height on the parting tool nevermind face that off let's break that corner [Applause] and that one i guess [Applause] [Music] all right so now we're ready to um drill for the um the tapped hole now this is going to be a blind hole so to be careful with the tapping okay first up let's get a sensor drill into play should be enough to make sure the drill starts in the right place you'll hear plenty of bearing noise from this old girl he's done lots of work there's no spring chicken that gets the job done it didn't cost very much well now we want to go in 20 basically so we just hit where the diameter changes now we take the drill out this is a number seven drill to give me a 5.1 millimeter hole for the tap so we're doing this a quarter 20 this is a telescopic uh pointy thing to support the back end of the uh tap keep things lined up so that that will engage in that uh center in the back of the tap handle so we're gonna go back a bit get some tap magic cutting stuff on there start winding in it's back out of the way and that once in a while to break off the chips that curl up inside the flutes looks like we've hit the bottom no not quite i'll put this in the free wheeling so when it hits the bottom the chuck will turn instead of breaking the tap so it must be pretty close to the bottom so i think we'll run the intermediate tap in now with the taper tap the the grind is all the way back to here so there's a quite a long taper with the intermediate it's a much shorter taper so this is easier to wind in when you're starting the thread but this guy will take the thread deeper in the hole and then we'll switch over to the bottoming tap to get right to the bottom let's just change the view a little bit here so and that's at the bottom so time to change machines okay so this is the gadget we use for putting uh easily putting um a hex pattern on something it's much easier and quicker than playing around with the dividing head so we have a right size collet a bit of material we want to work on um call it snaps in there that goes in there sticks out a little bit into there now just let me get some repeatability all right now so exactly where that is doesn't matter but we'll just slide it back to the stop and we'll be good now tighten up that collet this guy's sitting waiting ready to go so much we'll use it all right so we'll we'll bring this down to touch off on there call that our zero because this is um 13 millimeters diameter if we refer back to our little shop drawing um the hex has got to be 11 across the flats so basically i've got to come down a millimeter from each side all right just touching there and we zero the cordy arrow at that now we've got to find the the end face so we can come in six as per the drawing and we'll just come down a bit and start with and um come across until we just touch here just attaching there to a zero x and we're good to go we're going to come down to millimeter so i think we'll do that in a couple of steps that's 0.5 so we'll take a cut at that and then check our dimension see how close we are to creating our 11. put it in here right so it should be it should be at 12 and a half now i think i will use the micrometer for this to get to my 11 millimeters across the flat i've got to take off another 0.506 on this side and then i should be set to just flip it over and do the same depth of cut on the other well let's see if it works out that way so [Music] [Music] let's see how close to 11 we are [Music] [Music] 11.02 i'm pretty sure that's going to be close enough basically i just want to get a 7 16 of an inch spanner on there so we'll just check that yeah that's fine yep that's perfect i just worked out that size from using a standard nut so that's good i'm happy with it [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] we get for that last one well certainly not going to complain about that [Music] finished with that operation it's back to the lathe now i'll just clean that up a bit and um part it off and we're done so i've got a new tip and off we go that's a lot better isn't it it's more like what we want [Music] [Music] foreign [Applause] [Applause] right done let's go and see if it fits okay let's finish making that um simple enough little job didn't take that long um so if it doesn't work out no grate loss anyway that's intended to go on there and it can be locked in place with the back nut that's already on there just to do that okay so the way this is supposed to work and until i try it i don't know this this is the idea put your drill on there you got up to 30 thousandths pushing it towards the grinder which should be enough for ordinary sharpening but if it isn't um we'll stop at that point slap a little clamp on up here just to hold the drill in place back that off so recover the 30 hour movement and push this back up behind the drill tighten the block down and now you've got another 30 000 to go until i start using it i won't know whether that's an incredible pain in the backside or it actually turns out to be quite simple because for most sharpening we don't need more than 30 000 advancement into the stone so anyway that's the plan so that is done for now if it doesn't work out i'll go back to the original idea of proper left hand thread and all the rest of it so there's a lot of a lot more than just this amount of travel we'll come up with some other way of getting more travel anyway maybe um actually i suppose if i had a thumb wheel on there instead of the lever that would probably do it just as well anyway we'll try and see okay so last thing i want to do is an improvement for this is to make something which makes it easier to get the lips horizontal so that's what i'm going to look at next okay well i've got one concept that seems to have some promise that's just a space of block actually this is um from the rear leaf springs of a ford transit believe it or not it's another piece that's being pressed into service it was a weird shape originally i just put on the mini machine and basically squared it up anyway so and that's just a nut and bolt so i can set that like that rotate the drill around until it uh sits there if i've got to make this slightly higher i can do that of course so converted the concept of the cast iron block with the adjustable bolt to this um didn't take very much effort which is just as well because it turned out to be quite useless but anyway it's a couple of support brackets from a solar panel they just bolt together so get got the height adjustment i had to skim out a bit of material here because in their previous use these ridges had been damaged so just clean that up i made up this little bolt with a thumb wheel to get this little bolt with the thumb wheel to get the height adjustment which all worked fine so the idea was to get that underneath the lip of the drill and then use it to set the lip horizontal and it worked really well at setting that lip horizontal the the one on this side the lip that points down so i think you can see that uh yes the drill lips are parallel from this point of view but what i and even as you rotate from that point of view they stay parallel but the point of view that the grind wheel has is very different his point of view is much more like that because the drill is laid over at an angle for the the sharpening and you can see very clearly now that from that point of view the grinding wheels point of view when the one it's going to be working on that one is horizontal it doesn't perceive or that one is not horizontal in that from that same point of view so setting using this one to set that one is fatally flawed and just a bonehead move on my part so just as well this thing was quick and easy to make because like i say turned out to be no use at all so regarding this um lever and the long screw and all the rest of it and the nonsense that i went through yesterday showing how i could fiddle around with the clamps and all sorts and get the extra distance i had an epiphany last night when i was trying to get to sleep i gather epiphany actually has two meanings there's a religious one and a sudden revelation a secular revelation shall we say anyway my revelation was that if i replaced this thing by a long screw and a removable arm i.e an allen key i could have my cake and eat it too so i can get um easily get a very fine adjustment that's five thousandths of there and even without the dial gauge there i'll just close my eyes so i can get one or two or four it's really quite easy with this to get a small adjustment and have a pretty fair idea what you're going to get even without the dial gauge being there and of course if i do need to uh exceed the um the 30 power that was available or the other way doing it i just wind the screw so that's a lot a lot more sanitary and i think that's the way i'm going to go because the the locking mechanism hasn't changed just lock it wherever i want to so i think that's going to be a lot better anyway so now i've got all the elements of the solution finalized i've got my more rigid upright i've got a more rigid support bracket i've got the length adjustment here and a button a large diameter button here for the drill to back against so i'll just give it a quick go um i'm sure it'll be an improvement in what i had before uh but let's see anyway so that's got that set right okay so we'll set the angle for the um secondary clearance so we'll go to the for 20 degrees close enough do for our twenty get this over right well the vacuum cleaner is very loud i'm afraid [Music] to yeah thing on and i'm going to do this at eight degrees i'll be able to read it better if i turned it on i can certainly say that the new drill jig setup is much more rigid and consistent so it's easier to get this sort of result anyway let's go and drill a hole and see how it works i wouldn't say it went through it like a knife through butter but uh it was doing a 7 16 or 11 millimeter hole with no pilot through 10 millimeter thick mild steel plate so pretty good i guess let's check the size of the hull inspect the end of the drill too it seems to have survived the experience without any obvious issue i can tell you it's still got a sharp edge it would probably cut in faster if i had used say 10 degrees on the cutting angle instead of 8 but i wanted to experiment check that with the micrometer when i can find it the drill is 11.8 and the hole 11.89 so basically about 0.1 oversized or what's that three or four thousandths that's pretty good i mean never extract twist drills to to drill an accurately sized hole so i'm happy with that well that's it for this video i hope you enjoyed it and thanks for watching

Channel: Alan's Home Workshop

Views: 7,376

Rating: 4.8651686 out of 5

Keywords: Drill grinding, 4 facet grinding, four facet grinding, lathe, milling machine, hydraulic press, drill sharpening

Id: 18OeNYfZ4JA

Length: 45min 0sec (2700 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 03 2021