Rose Engine Overview and Guilloche Demonstration

this is my Rose engine lay that I built from scratch right here in my own workshop the machine is set up specifically for engine turning do che work in my watch style so that's what the machine is purpose-built for there are some ros engines that are capable of doing ornamental turning on wood my machine's not really set up for it in the way that the rosettes are created and the pivot function works so specifically my machine is for engraving in metal there are some commercially available machines both brand new and vintage machines they go for quite a bit of money so I wasn't in the position to fork out that kind of money especially when I was trying to take my case making case back bezel making abilities to the next level and I needed to purchase my larger milling machine as well as my lathe so I was able to build this machine for about 10 percent the cost of buying a new machine or buying an old machine and refurbishing it so it came together pretty well it was really my own design I put a lot of inspiration from online and some books that are out there but really I built my machine specifically for the tasks that I'm asking of it so I wanted to take the opportunity today to bring you in a little bit closer we're going to take a look at the operation of the machine and I'm gonna do a demonstration on turning a basket weave pattern on a fine silver blight that I have mounted up in the Chuck here alright so we'll take a look at the machine and how everything operates and give a brief explanation of each of the parts of the machine that we have in front of us here so we're gonna start at the Machine closest to me here so this is just a pretty basic compound table so it moves in the X and y direction I got it from grizzly industrial I think it was a little over 100 bucks not the best option I think there's some other routes that I would have gone if I'm gonna do this again there's quite a bit of backlash and the lead screws so on X it's like 20,000 then on Y it's about 15,000 so the dial readouts by themselves were basically useless but I did compensate with that so on top of the compound table here I have a quick change tool post so this actually came off of my grizzly lathe I replaced it with a phase-two wedge type tool post so this is the piston type so I use this quick change tool post specifically so I can use the adjustable height tool holders just a standard bxa tool holder but there is a knurled nut and then a lock nut that allows me to adjust the height and so that's one of the most critical pieces about doing engine turning G O'Shea work as your cutter needs to be as centered horizontally as you possibly can get it so I built my own cutter holder so it's just a piece of aluminum that I build some slots into to bring the overall height of my cutter down there are two linear bearings that are connected to a linear rail that holds my actual cutter so I have a brazed carbide cutter mounted up in this little tool holder that I'd machined out of mild steel so the cutter is from micro 100 and it's I think it's a forty thousand grooving tool so a really fine tip grooving tool that I was able to sharpen on some diamond wheels and get it to the exact geometry that I needed it to be and then right next to that is what's called a guide so basically it sets the depth of your cutter so this has just mounted on a rail and it has quite a bit of travel but obviously if you're just pushing your cutter straight into your work here not going to have much control over the depth so I round out of a piece of quarter-inch high speed steel my guide and it comes to a point and then it's really the sharp corners are ground over and the whole thing is polished so it only leaves just a fine burnishing mark on the workpiece instead of making any grooves or scratches or cuts like that so that's just to control your depth right behind it is a quarter twenty socket cap screw and so that allows me to adjust the depth and really my cutter depth based on that guide the front of the cross slide here I have a digital readout so it's just a cheap Amazon magnetic scale digital readout but it's precise enough for the work that I'm doing so like I mentioned the lead screws are not very precise on this machine and the readouts on the handles are pretty much useless so I rely on my digital readout to get accurate movement on my compound table specifically in the x-direction as I'm advancing my cutter towards the center of the workpiece when the front of the spindle here I have just a basic lathe for jaw Chuck so it's an independent four jaw Chuck which allows me to Center my workpiece it allows me to do offset turning so if I'm turning a watch style that has a sub seconds hand and I want the pattern to be concentric to that rather than the actual center of the watch dial where the hour and minute hands are I can offset that in this example I'm turning a pendant that has an offset hole in it and so I'm using that as the actual center of the geometric pattern rather than the precise center of the workpiece the four jaw Chuck is mounted on a one inch spindle so it's just a hardened one inch shaft hardened in ground so I think it was within like two ten thousand something like that was a spec sheet I got it from McMaster so I turned that down I've cut one inch by ten thread per inch threads to screw the lathe back and chuck on and I did all of the operations of my lathe so I mounted the spindle up in my lathe before I made any cuts to it machined it down cut the threads then I screwed on the back plate machined the back plate for the four jaw Chuck to sit onto so everything was concentric to the spindle as it was in my lay so that was a pretty important step in making sure that my lathe is centered to my spindle on the spindle I have a spacer and then what I call my rosette carriage so it's a independent barrel that sits on the spindle that's not actually keyed to the spindle at all it holds my rosette so right now I have six different pattern rosettes on my spindle barrel the phasing or the position of your rosettes is based entirely off of what's called the crossing wheel so up here I have three sets of slots on my crossing wheel and then I have stamped the number of waves on each rosette that correspond with those so right now my touch piece is on my 60 way of rosette so that means there's 60 different sine waves on this rosette my crossing wheel I have made five cuts really there really only needs to be four and it represents a quarter of a phase so on this sixty wave rosette every time I move it represents moving one quarter of the phase from peak to peak on my rosettes and so I have that corresponding for each of the six rosettes that I have on here if I make more rosettes I can always add more of those slots under my Crossing wheel the crossing wheel is held in place by just this spring lever here so when I pull the lever down you can see that the barrel moves independently so the workpiece isn't actually moving just the barrel and the rosettes so that allows me to phase my rosettes and create the basket weave pattern that we're going to go through shortly here behind that is just a V belt pulley and a pulley hub that I got from some farm supply website and I welded the pulley on it to the hub and just give me the correct ratios the spindle is sitting in this spindle carriage here and it's basically this shape of an H capital H I board one inch in 1/4 holes and I pressed in some bronze or light bushings so that's oil impregnated bronze bushings that don't really require a lot of maintenance this isn't a high rpm machine and not a high load machine so I just I'll it every time I take the Machine apart and just make sure that those bronze bushings are well oiled but overall it's so far it's been working great for me as a crossbar on the bottom here that really holds the spindle rigid so that it's not flexing under the spring pressure off to the right here I have two Springs that are probably a inch and a half in diameter and then they are on Delrin bushings that I turned on my lathe and each of these Springs is independently adjustable so I have a 1/2 inch 20 thread bolt that I can thread into the spring perch bar here and adjust my spring pressure in and out so if I'm using different rosettes that require higher or lower spring pressure I'm able to adjust that on this side of the machine I have just a little platform that I built to hold my touch piece and then I also wasn't quite sure how to figure out the math at the time of centering my touch piece so I did a similar operation like I did with Mike where I'm using quick change tool holder that has an adjustable posts in it so I can set the height based on which touch piece I'm using it which rosettes I'm using is not necessary my recommendation would be just do the math and figure out a fixed height really cuz you're trying to find the center of your touch piece versus the center of your rosettes so an adjustable touch piece isn't necessary so I just have a dovetail mechanism set up here so I just loosen it tighten these quarter-twenty cap and screws and I can move my touch piece from rosette to rosette so that's how I'm able to adjust which rosette I'm using to copy the pattern and on the bottom of the machine here I have my hand wheel so turning this wheel also turns my spindle and so I have some reduction I think it's 20 turns of my hand wheel represents one turn something along that line and I think it's a little too slow so I'm probably gonna change the ratios out on my larger pulley on the bottom there to get a little bit quicker since I'm not turning anything really large and just like operating a normal lathe as you get closer to the center you want to increase the RPM of your spindle just to get a more consistent cut so I'm probably gonna reduce that ratio down a little bit last piece is the tube steel frame that I weld it together so this is made up of inch and a half by inch and a half and inch and a half by three inch square tubing and rectangular tubing is eighth inch wall it's very heavy I wanted the machine especially in the base to be as heavy as I could possibly get it while still being able to move around if I need to so in a machine like this that is really using oscillation to create the pattern you have an uncertain or too light of a base the oscillation will translate into the entire machine and they can mess up your cut and employ your cutter off-course so I wanted it to be as heavy as possible so I'm pretty happy with how it came out I just cut it and welded it together and came out great so we're gonna dive into creating a basket weave pattern like I mentioned I have a fine silver disk mounted up in the truck here that I'm going to be turning the basket weave pattern on so this is that can be a double sided pendant that will be enameled to so I'm just doing the first side here and we'll we'll go through the exercise of creating that pattern I'll show you how how I do it step-by-step here we are with the machine all set up almost ready to run so I have my workpiece centered around the hole towards the top half of the pendant here so not actually centered on the center of the disc but a little offset pattern that we're gonna be turning the basket weave pattern I also have my cutter centered high twice and then I have also brought my cutter to the very far left of the workpiece so since we're turning off set it were only going to be focusing on the left hand part of the pendant at first and then we're gonna be working our way towards the center of that hole there so now that I have my cutter set up in the very first position that I want it to be set up in I'm gonna zero my digital readout to make sure that my table is locked in place it's going to make my first pass here and so my cutter just barely makes contact with the edge of the workpiece there I should also mention that I am phased on my first notch in my 60 wave phasing wheel or crossing wheel here so after I've made that first cut it's a very very light cut just on the edge there I'm going to advance my cutter in by 8007 inch so I'm going to watch for that on my digital readout so eight thousands I'm also going to advance my crossing wheel by one slot so now my cutters moved to the right by eight thousands of an inch I have phased my rosettes to a quarter phase and so now I'm ready for my second cut so I'm going to touch off on the workpiece another super super light cut and it's just really starting to show up on the edge there so we're gonna keep that process going so I'm going to move my compound another 8,000 so it's a sixteen thousands lock it down one more phase on my crossing wheel so I'm going to come back touch off of my workpiece go for another cut so this one's just starting to show up clean my cutter off there so once again I'm going to move by another 8,000 so up to twenty four thousandths lock it down and move over to the last phase of my crossing wheel I'm going to go in for this third cut so now we can see that cut finally starting to show up let me grab my little chip brush here wipe off my cutter so now that we've gotten to the last phase on our crossing wheel we're going to start moving in the opposite direction so I'm going to zero out my digital readout then I'm going to move another eight thousand seven inch lock it down I'm going to start moving my crossing wheel in the opposite direction so zeroed out my cutter at the beginning of each movement is helping me maintain my trajectory figure out which step I'm at so I know that based on my do a readout reading I know what my phase should be on my crossing wheel so I hope we keep track of this basket weave batter so we're gonna move in for the next cut here you can see we're pulling a good chip there so we're going to move another eight thousands of an inch a little too far so back out to 16,000 I'm going to move my crossing wheel and come in for another cut another 8,000 it's up to 24 block it down and then the last place again so this is really where we started the pattern a little bit off the workpiece but now we're back to that first position we're going to make this cut here come back make sure I got the start go and then we're going to restart that process so we're going to zero out digital read out advance eight thousandths move our crossing wheel to the second position align and come in for a cut another eight thousands on the disk here on the compound crossing wheel come over for the next cut another eight now lockdown back to the last position on the left-hand side of the crossing wheel make this final cut there we go we can really see our basket weave pattern starting to come to life so it comes together fairly quickly once you get into the rhythm and you're you're in the groove of knowing which direction you're moving and and how to set up your patterns and we'll come back when we're getting closer to the center there so there we have it the basket weave is complete on the first half so I'm go ahead and get it pulled out of the four giant super hard to hit cameras to focus on give shape patterns a lot of times but there we go that's pretty good look so we can see that we have the best weave pattern heading towards the center and then about two hundred thousands away from the edge of that hole I switched over to just a concentric circle pattern so the problem or I guess the main issue about doing G O'Shea on small pieces and headed towards the center is that the closer you get to the center the harder the pattern is to read focus you so the order it is to read so that's generally why I switched to the concentric circle pattern it was a really nice clean look and kind of finishes off that pattern and brings it in towards the center and a lot cleaner manner so I throw this in some acetone dissolve the superglue holding it on to the aluminum block and then I'll flip this one over do the same pattern on the back side and then it's going to get a clear enamel on both sides ah damn that hurt mm-hmm all right oh Oh

Channel: DM Tiffany Timepieces

Views: 21,555

Rating: 4.9103446 out of 5

Keywords: guilloche, engine turning, rose engine, rose engine lathe, watchmaking, independent watchmaking, watchmaker, independent, horology

Id: gV7jdgwFfYU

Length: 18min 42sec (1122 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 02 2020