Scubapro G250 Second Stage Service and Repair by Vintage Double Hose

scubapro G 250 this is the 109 on steroids scubapro got it right with this one for sure tough as nails keep going on the others quit I mean it's just hard to beat all the way around it's a great second stage and it's even easier to service in the 109 so the I did scan and all the parts schematics for this and the factory service recommendations are on the link where you're in the website store and you're purchasing service kit for this so without further ado and Jachin let's get to tearing it down there is a factory cover service tool that removes the cover probably don't have one of those if you do great if not a lot of times you can get it by simply just pressing down and unscrewing it if it's you know stuck you're going to need to make alternate arrangements another way you can do it is is with a large spanner wrench and be sure it's got the large tabs on it we wrap a couple pieces of tape around it Center it good and be sure you hold down if it doesn't you even with this tool if it's still stuck take the whole thing and since we rebuild that we really don't care stick it in some hot water and just let it set for a few hours let it set overnight it hopefully will dissolve it enough to where you can remove the cover which is we got to do that before we do anything else so I've got factory service tool and we just remove the cover like so and screw it so there'll be a friction washer and the diaphragm diaphragm on the G 250 is rarely bad you can see this one's kind of a little crusty but soap and water will clean it right up be ready to use again I picked this radiator particularly because you can see it got a lot of corrosion on it hasn't been well taken care of so get to work on that of the splined nut on the side requires the scubapro tool to take off a lot of times you'll see these are chewed up because people take them off with slip-joint pliers or you know all kinds of stuff if you don't have the tool that removes this about the best thing you're going to be able to do is put several wraps of electrical tape around this and try some soft jaw pliers to remove it once again and maybe where you're going to need to soak it for a while but it should never be put on so hard you can't easily remove it but as you can see this one's got a lot of corrosion so it may not come out too easy but we'll give it a shot slide the tool over it once that comes loose send screw set it aside now one of one of the many cool things about the G 250 is is you can remove the whole air barrel it's a lot easier to work on when you got it out of the regulator simple to do just to press the lever with your thumb finger what-have-you and push it out from this side when it gets when you get some movement to it when you get it moved about here pass the square turn it sideways whole thing slips right out a couple of things on the case the exhaust valve is rarely bad on these but you know since we're tearing this one all the way down let's go ahead and take it all the way to the the little parts on each side it's the camera's going to have a really hard time focusing this dark place there's two allen screws one on each side once you take the Allen screws out the center section slides out and when you're cleaning be sure you clean those two holes where the Allen screws go very thoroughly because they get they get a lot of corrosion well I say the the exhaust valve on these is rarely bad but it's a good idea even if it's not going to be replaced to clean behind it be sure nothing's on there once again done put silicon on silicon all the silicon does has become a big magnet for any piece of sand grit what have you put it in there it goes in dry we'll pull this one out because we're going to clean the case all right we're good there the next thing we've got to take out is the barielle vein which is the venturi adjustment and it's held in by a c-clip see if I can get enough focus and you can see part of the c-clip right here and you can push it out from the back side the service kit comes with one it's easier for me to show it to you after I get it out of here there's a c-clip a lot of times those are rusty and I don't know why that was not too bad and then you just have to take your fingers in there and work that very alene out there's no real way to push it out it just take you take your tool that you took the lever out with and push the sideways it'll come out there's an o-ring on here all right we need to replace and that comes in your kit as well all right we've got the case pretty well broken down and it's ready to clean the air barrel is shows this one particularly because I know it has the old-style rivet head pop it in it so they're the old-style up Eraserhead pop it in it so easiest way to do that is turn your knob in a couple turn so there's no resistance on this pin and you should be able to simply now this one's really corroded push it back or take your brass tool and just turn this to the side or it drops off like that and then that will go right out that's your retainer then unscrew your the adjustment knob on it and there's some spring tension in here a little bit and you'll feel when you're out pull it out and tip it up you're going to get your balance chamber that's in like a million bucks and spring we're going to reuse a couple of those parts so don't go let me get away on the what's remaining here is this one needs to be cleaned inside now because I can tell us a lot of corrosion in here if you know if you're Justin Crowe de and it looks clean shiny you don't necessarily need to remove the lever because the least amount of times you can bend and mess with the lever the better if you're going to go that route and leave the the lever intact just simply move it up see how it's a little past 90 degrees there and you can and you can push your pop it out with you know any anything small diameter because we haven't taken the orifice out of it yet but on this one since I'm going to take the since I need to clean inside I'll go ahead and take the pop it out of it as well so try to make as little a Bend as possible keeping your lever intact as possible set it aside then dump and you see this is get the old rivet style pop it in it so we're going to need to replace that last thing to take out is the volcano orifice and that's an important important piece I'm going to show you on the cutaway because it'll make more sense you can see the the volcano orifice threads into this section but it's also held in tight by and oring on it so as you unscrew it it's only going to unscrew so far and then it's going to feel like you're not going anywhere that's the friction of that o ring still holding it in there so we got to get past that another important part is be sure that you have a screwdriver that fits that head don't use one that's too small or the tapirs wrong on because it'll mess it up so you just kind of have to unscrew this until you feel you can you can feel it that you're not going any further then take any any brass plastic wood dowel put it in there and push out the office bill ring on there we got to replace and then on the air barrel take your brass pick and remove two little rings there there you'd remove the o-ring on your on your volcano orifice also on the adjustment knob and then on the the Vario vein it's on there and it's it's a little tricky cuz it's a really tight fit overhang on there and i won't i won't bore you with me well alright i'm boring there we go got that overhang off too alright now we've got a disassembled and now it's time to get it cleaned up and get it ready to put back together now we've got all the parts to our G 250 cleaned up time put it back together in the interest of time I went in and put on some of the basic parts that really don't need a lot of explanation when you put the exhaust housing back on be sure to make sure that the the hex head female threads are cleaned out and put a little silicone grease on the threads of the hex head screws that you put those back in also the vein diverter I always say I call I say vivo which I believe is correct there but I've also said very ill veins so bear with me on the terminology when you put this back through on the receiving female side I put a little lubricant in there and the same with the o-ring around it mural once you push that through there you'll feel it lock in and you may have to fidget a little bit to get the c-clip over there but be sure you get that on there correctly and then also double-check once you before you push the whole assembly together that you have it with the notch facing towards the mouthpiece so it the directional of that works right that's pretty much covers it for the housing for the moment take our air barrel that it cleaned out got the two o-rings on the side just you know when you lubricate these be sure that just enough lubricant to make them wet not a bunch of excess on there not necessary need to put back on the demand lever and you want to make sure that demand lever goes on the flat side because that will be facing towards the divers mouth like I said with this don't spread this open don't you know try to keep it as the way it was when you took it off yeah next we're ready to put together the put the poppet assembly in and I'll show you on the cutaway so you'll see exactly exactly what's happening if you saw though 109 video I talked about the lever and how it was easier to put together the pop-it-on t250 because you can move the lever a little past 90 it makes the whole assembly slide together a little easier so and I went and I colored in the tabs the feet on that one so you can see when as this goes together the feet engaged the two tabs on the lever and that's the critical part and it's really you know really simple to do slide this slide together like this hold your hold your lever back just a little bit not a lot of pressure just a little bit to keep it a little past 90 then your spring and balance chamber would go on and then you would take your adjustment knob and just push the whole thing in there you see how it clicked right into place check your demand lever be sure it's working correctly you let that focus a little bit there so you can see it because I'm depressing the lever you can see it's extracting it or pulling it back from the volcano orifice it's working correctly everything's good there so if we take our air barrel we've got our lever on there take our volcano orifice and lightly grease the o-ring and lightly grease the threads insert it you have to push it with your thumb to get it started and then take take your screwdriver and you'll you'll see it'll push down alright and then you just screw it in until it stops all right here stop and then back it out you know about a turn and a half should be good to get it's in the in the wheelhouse there all right we're good there now we're ready to put the pop it in flip it upside down pop it because when we slide it through there we want the feet to engage two tabs there pull the lever back just slightly and you'll know when you get it adjustment knob that we put new o-ring on with just a little grease and a little grease on the threads slide together and boom and everything's working smoothly there go ahead and turn your adjustment knob in till you can till you can see light through the whole shows like through the hole where the retaining pin goes it should be good there grab your housing depress your demand lever and you're going to feel little resistance because the o-rings are new and they're going to want to make their way through get lined up on the other side alright now when you're about yay far in go ahead and turn let that pop up and then with your palm push it in place make sure your demand lever is working freely then add just a little lubricant on here not excess spin that down and whatever tool you've got to do it with it does not need to be crushed on there just snug and then go back over and put your PIN in the demand lever sorry I'm going to move that away from the camera so I can snap it into place and it's snap back into place go ahead and turn your adjustment knob all the way out till it stops now you notice so I get a good shot the demand lever is low so we know that going into the adjustment part our diaphragms all cleaned up once again don't put silicon on silicon diaphragm it's like putting water on water your friction washer and the cover screw it down and it only needs to be hand tight alright you can align the if the knob doesn't align you can remove the cover and turn it slightly till it lines up for the perfectionist in the bunch and it's going to a customer so before I get done with it I will I'll do that all right we are set we're back together and now we are ready to do hook up the air and do the final lever height adjustment and get it wrapped up we're ready to do the lever height adjustment and final set up on our G 250 and so let's get started easiest to start here if you take a look at your volcano orifice here this is how we're going to be adjusting the lever height by turning this clockwise you're going to be decreasing the lever height by turning it counterclockwise you'll be increasing the lever height and the idea is to get the lever as high as possible without a free flow now some folks like to have their adjusted a little bit differently with the adjustment knob all the way out they like to have just a very slight bit of free flow that need that we'll need to turn the knob in slightly just to stop the free flow that way they're you know a hundred percent sure they get in the best flow possible you can do it that way you can do it to where there is no free flow so 6 1/2 does the other your choice to adjust of course you can use screwdriver it works just fine you know the width that you have to take you have to purge the air take the hose off make the adjustment each time if you're using the screwdriver make adjustments slight or you know not abruptly make it a quarter no more than a half turn at a time and purge it recheck it and you know double check it again for time sake I'm going to use a inline adjustment tool they come in various varieties this is what I sell it's a it's a relatively inexpensive one this is the original type this is an old Peterbilt tools in light of just a tool broke my gates a long time ago this is an inline adjustment tool with the gauge my buddy Randy at piranha carry says if you need to need one with all the bells and whistles it's very simple to use as you hook as you screw this into the regulator and turn the air on the air is going to retract it because of air pressure but as you push it in you'll see that it will engage the two notches on the volcano orifice and allow you to turn one way or the other when you're setting it up you know hopefully you're using the first-stage that you use with the with your ii but you know you not as long as your first stage has between 150 and 145 psi it's you know pretty well good to go so first things first put the in-line adjustment tool on hook your throw it on your LP regulator hose and turn the air on slowly because you maybe depending on where you set the volcano to begin with you may have a lot of free flow you may need to shut it off quickly so slowly turn it on all right I've got air pressure too it must have the lever set really low because I can't even get any purge out of it so what I'm going to do is you know turn this in and I'm going to rotate it counterclockwise here start to free flow slightly so I move it back just slightly then purge it a couple times hold it close to your ear listen for leaks take a few breaths everything is working good free we'll have this setup gee 250 is very easy to set up now one thing on the G 250 is the vein adjustment has some specific ways of testing it and for sake of time I did not I won't go through those but if you look in the manual that the link is from the video and also on the in the website store where you purchase service get there's a link to the manual little it goes into detail on how to check both your vein setting and for testing your final setup so after that shut your air off purge it remove your inline adjusting tool hook up your hose tighten it securely and you are Yorgi 250 s ready to go hope you found the video informative if you have questions you can send me an email visit the website store you can purchase all the parts you need to service your G 250 as well as links to the factory manuals if you'd like to see those and I highly recommend you to review those when you're doing it I appreciate your time

Channel: Vintage Double Hose VDH Worldwide LLC

Views: 14,989

Rating: 4.9624414 out of 5

Keywords: Scubapro G250, Scuba Repair

Id: -DCV0JreilY

Length: 23min 17sec (1397 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 02 2017