First Stage Scuba Regulator Service. Part 2: Assembly and adjustment.

hi internet uh i'm back again uh this is part two of the first stage regulator service uh we're gonna be talking about assembly of the first stage and uh adjustment so as you can see all parts here are being cleaned uh all the o-rings and the replaced part that has to be replaced from the service kit are being replaced in all of the places where initially put the parts for after disassembly before we will start with the assembly i want to talk a little bit of cleaning so i know that i mentioned in a part one that i'm not gonna show the steps for cleaning because they're exactly the same as the second stage and i have the video of that on my channel so you basically disassemble uh clean it in the soap uh free of any um perfume or dye so that basically clean uh soap and water uh using the nylon brush then rinse it with the fresh water let it dry or like all the metal parts that are have some corrosion or salt deposits that didn't come off while you were actually using soap put them in a 50-50 percent uh household clean vinegar and water solution in a sonic heating bus and sonicate for five to ten minutes and then rinse it with fresh water and air dry so this regulator that i'm servicing right now uh this service and cleaning is very sufficient because this regulator is never going to be used for uh oxygen mixes more than 40 so this is go for not this is good for nitrox up to 40 so if you want to clean your regulator up to 100 oxygen so there's special steps you need to consider so i will go through them uh in this part in case if you want to do that so i'm not going to show that but it's pretty straightforward as long as you follow all the precautions that are gonna point it so you should be fine so it's super critical when you do oxygen cleaning is to have the nitrile clean gloves to wear on disassembly cleaning and then when you everything uh ready to be assembled you put new pair of the gloves and only touching the clean parts with the clean gloves all your tools has to be degreased and prepared for the oxygen cleaning as well so um work surface has to be lint free contamination free no hydrocarbons your clothes has to be also clean and not nothing no oils no like if you work in a garage make sure you clean your area very thoroughly you tuck your hair off so there's nothing can get to the regulator so tools you degrees them with special degreasing agents uh that are actually free of heavy perfumes and die so the examples of those degreasers are crystal simple green or blue gold cleaner so you can get them in any household sections of your hardware store um so you basically do your wash with soap let it uh dry uh do your sonicating part and then you do um use those degreasers to take off the of the oily residues or any hydrocarbon residue that potentially can be on your regulator so and then you let it it greens it let it air dry or use the compressed air but make sure you use the oxygen compatible compressed air from the scuba tank so don't use your regular compressor because that air has some oil in it so um inspect the parts using the uv light in the dark environment so i don't have a uv light so i'm not cleaning my regulator for the oxygen higher than 40 percent so yeah if you want to if you want to go this route so you need to buy invest to the slide and basically you would shine it on the parts and see if you'll see any oily residue left over okay so this is this is quickly about the oxygen cleaning process if you have any questions about this you can um let me know in the comments section down below so i'll try to answer the questions as good as i can thank you yeah we're just gonna move on to the assembly so first thing uh we need to do uh we're gonna take the main uh regulator body and uh put it the dive fragment side up like this and then we will take the lifter so this part and we're going to insert it right here in the center so then we'll be taking the new diaphragm and uh slightly bended like this uh so we'll go in to the groove there easy and this is where this uh blunt uh uh brush peak gets handy to push it down so we don't want to really damage the diaphragm just go around make sure it's all seated everywhere so like this so we put it aside uh the next step is to take the the the main adjustment bowl uh retaining clamp and mainspring teflon washers for the spring adjustment bolt plastic washer and i'm gonna assemble it so we will screw in the adjustment bolt that there's about three or four threads are sticking out on top of the the clamp so like maybe like this just want to count on the threads yeah i have three threads sticking out so that should be a good starting point when we'll be starting the adjustment okay so we're turning it upside down we put one of the teflon washer and put it inside of the adjustment bolt where the spring will sit so put the spring in okay so the second teflon washer goes here on a on this plastic retaining washer goes on top of this the spring here so now we keep it like this returning the main regulator body upside down and start screwing them like that so now we will be using our regulator holding tool and uh screwing until we don't see any gap uh here in between the main body and a clamp okay so once uh the clamp is in position uh we want to make sure that there is a some resistance on uh adjustment bolt so um if you feel when you put your six millimeter hex and start turning the ball left right you feel no resistance at all so just move it clockwise until you start feeling some resistance and also do not over tighten it so because if you apply the pressure so it might actually displace the diaphragm if it's too much of resistance so another way to check if you have enough resistance here does this side when you see the lifter sticking out it shouldn't really move and be wobbly so we're gonna just go in and check so right now it's actually loose there so when we will be assembling and putting the high pressure seat from from here we might not be able to get to this hole and it will bend the lifter so just to have some resistance on the bolt yeah so something like that so it's not actually moving and it's give us some initial pressure adjustment point uh when we'll be adjusting it okay so now we put it aside and we start assembling our high pressure seat so to do that we will use our lubricant the oxygen compatible lubricant we're going to put some of it inside of the groove here where our small o-ring sets so again we're using the brass peak not stainless steel so we don't want to scratch the surface inside here so we're going to put some of the lubricant there okay so taking our o-ring so lubricating it putting it aside okay so now it sits inside you can see that okay so we're taking our spring actually let's just put the o-ring on on the base here of the the knot for holding the pressure seat so i'm putting it here okay so let's hear our spring and this is our high pressure seat okay so now we want to make sure it's actually moving freely when you compress the spring okay okay so and then goes in our four millimeter hex range seats sits like this and what we're going to do now we will keep this position up and we'll be screwing it to the to the main body to here okay okay once we get it seated and we use our four millimeter and turn it until it stops so here we have to according to the manual we have to use the um the torque wrench uh to turn it to the 80 inch bounce rating so do not over tighten that so i i'm gonna show you um how i'm doing the using the the torque range but then basically you will see how much torque i'm applying so if you don't have a torque wrench you should be fine so we have the four millimeter bit here so we put it here and so yeah you know you you saw it that it was turned until it fully stopped without any further tension so that will be moving it so it's not even the 1 8 of the turn so just a slight um slight turn using the torque wrench and it was already was 80 inch pounds okay so nothing crazy there so after after you installed the um high pressure seat so we're moving to the the turret assembly so we have actual turret where all our hoses are connected so we're gonna put the big o-ring there lubricate it goes here the smaller o-ring so this is all rotating parts it's super critical to lubricate them it goes here [Music] okay so then we have the retaining clamp for the turret and we're gonna put them the teflon teflon o-ring right in here okay so and um the assembly goes together okay so this is a retaining nut and it has the eight millimeter socket uh for the align key range so we put it right here this is our eight millimeters i'm gonna screw that in uh and it will be actually torque to the 150 inch pounds so let me show you that so again like i turn it to the to the diamond it stops then i'm using my torque wrench and we're going to observe how far i'll be going with the 150 inch pound 1 8 of the turn so you see it was here so i turn it that's it so that's 150 inch pound all right so once we install uh uh install the turret assembly uh all together so we wanna make sure it's actually rotates freely now we're gonna install it on the main body so this is the main o-ring that goes on the main body where the turret is screwed in right here make sure it's all seated all the way around so now we have to use our spanner range uh to make sure there's no gap in between okay so now we're gonna put the din assembly um here again if you have yolk it's not a big deal you'll put your plastic washer here and we'll and actually the frame for the yoke assembly and not that will be screwed in with the three-quarter inch socket with the 3 8 extension so use the 240 inch pound torque or like just a common sense to put this assembly on for their for the dim it's similar so we have our um main body here so we put the new filter here then there's o-ring ring goes right here so then we have this plastic washer that goes here just screw that in make sure it stays in place using our um 13 16 socket i'm gonna tie it in so we put it in a wise and again it said it calls for 240 inch pounds but uh yeah we're just gonna use common sense i don't have a torque wrench that goes that high so i just use this socket okay so as soon as you put this this on so then we put the wheel nut here this is the din retaining nut with this corresponding o-ring putting in here so again putting back to the vice [Music] so we get 150 inch pound here but what we're going to do next i'm going to put the replacement o-ring so it's actually supposed to be brown in the kit but i do like pulley or retain o-rings like this so clear so i'll go right here all right so this basically completes assembly uh we we're not going to cover the environmental chamber and adjustment knot until we fully adjust the first stage so the next step will be connecting all the hoses putting the plugs on so um i already uh put the new o-rings on the plugs in all of the hoses so i'll get back to you when i finish the assembly the regulator okay okay um i have everything set for the first stage adjustment so i choose the uh the small cylinder this one has about 2000 psi on it so ideally you want to start with around 500 700 psi uh for the first set of adjustment then move to 1500 psi tank and then move to 3000 psi tank so um i don't have uh low pressure tank right now with the little little gas on it so this one is lowest that i have and it's 2000 psi so if you have that high of a pressure to start with just to be very careful when you open it first time after the regulator is put on and very slowly open it and then watch the pressure on your tank and this is i connected intermediate pressure gauge to my inflator hose so basically uh where we want to be we want to be at 135 psi so we want to be right here right so um when when it's fully adjusted so ideally when you assemble everything and um screw the adjustment screw to the proper turn so you should be around 100 psi to start with so we're just gonna see where we are right now so i'm gonna slowly um pressurize uh the tank at the same time i'm gonna hold the purge button on my uh second stage make sure we not burst anything or damage [Applause] so i open the yeah keep it closed so it was pretty slow so yeah we have around 2000 psi in the tank and i would say we at the 80 psi at um intermediate pressure it's a bit too low so what we're going to do we want to bring it to 100 uh using one method and then we'll be slowly increasing it to 135 which is required by this tank so to bring it to 100 we want to turn it off depressurize making sure there's no pressure so we don't want to turn this adjustment screw if there's a pressure on a high pressure seat so otherwise we premature damage so we taking our uh six millimeter hex range uh put it into an adjustment uh screw here so and we're going to turn it about uh maybe one eighth or quarter turn uh clockwise and then again purging the purge but pressing the purge button and slowly opening the tank [Applause] okay you can see that now we're a little bit closer to 100 and the key is that this needle here is not moving so it sits stable so we will purge a little bit so when you're purging it's normal it's dropping about five to ten psi then it come back since it's stable so there's no creeping air through the high pressure seat so okay we're going to depressurize it again now watching here on this uh gauge that it's zero so then we move it another quarter turn again pressing pressing the purge button and slowly opening the tank [Applause] so now we add 100 psi you can see that okay so now uh we we don't have to turn the pressure off but what we have to do when we'll be adjusting it very slowly purge the bottom at the same time so we're going to press the button and adjust it a little bit so don't go too far so very little adjustment at a time and then stop purge the perch regulator 15 times about 15 20 times and then we go back and see if the needle is stable so it's not going up good so now we're purging it again turning it a little bit more okay [Music] okay so we already at um 110 doing it still being stable so again the key is not to rush yourself through so very little adjustment at a time so we're purging the second stage and adjusting the regulator so by pressing the purge button several times we actually making the groove on a high pressure seat so it's it's actually getting to that slot where it's supposed to sit tight and making the groove so we're kind of compressing the the high pressure seat to make the to be molded for the perfect fit okay 130 and it's stable so we have to increase another uh 5 psi to make it 135 and keep it there okay so we want to go up we don't want to go down so if you actually miss your point it's harder to decrease it but it's possible so what happened if you adjust it too much and the pressure starts creeping and never stops so shut the regulator right away take the first stage off disassemble this ring here uh where's your high pressure seat is take it off put it back connect everything together i wouldn't take the hoses off but i just take this ring off take the high pressure seat assembly put it back screw it back to the proper torque so yeah so it's it's a bit of an annoying procedure because you can't really if you pass that um step that you adjusting it too far and it's actually you miss that point and it starts creeping up the pressure is not stable like here so then you have to disassemble and put it back and assemble this it's not a problem so you can still fix it that's not it doesn't mean that you break it so but it has to be taking off and put it back so i'm trying to avoid this of course and i'm adjusting it by maybe 1 8 of the term at a time by depressurizing the the second stage [Applause] dad okay so it's 135 and it's stable so what we're gonna do now uh we're gonna again depressurize the the purge button 25 50 times to allow the high pressure seat to start to settle in uh and then we will observe that ip so it should drop by 5 to 10 psi each cycle and return back to the 135 and then we will switch it to the higher pressure tank okay so yeah let me show you what it's doing actually here that should get back to 135 and be stable there okay oh good so now i'm going to depressurize it and switch to the uh to the different thing i think that another thing is 2500 psi this one is already at around 700 so okay i'll be back when i switch it okay i put the tank uh which is uh at around 20 um 21 2200 psi right now so it's higher pressure so what i do now since we know the the pressure is quite stable so we starting opening it very quickly pressurizing it quickly so that will actually also make more sitting uh groove on the high pressure seat okay so the pressure is still stable at 135 so we open it up higher pressure tank we cycle it 25-50 times okay so now we're going to put it on a third tank which is uh around 35 3 400 so well it could be between 28 and 3 000 or up to 3 400 psi pressure for the final adjustment okay all right so this is my third and last adjustment so i put it on a tank which is that at roughly about 3 400 psi so our ip is still stable around 135 we're gonna cycle at another 25 50 cycles uh and if we need to increase the ip to 135 we're gonna do this slowly when the purge button is depressed right [Music] okay so it's still being at 135 maybe maybe a little bit higher [Music] [Music] okay so we're gonna allow the system to set while pressurized for about five to ten minutes and there should be no evidence of the needle to go up okay so yeah we're just gonna wait ten minutes okay um i actually let it sit for about 20 minutes um and as you can see um the intermediate pressure seats is 135 stable the needle is not going up not creeping so i consider this first stage service and adjust it properly um one note is that when you're doing purging you will notice that the regulator are actually getting kind of cold and so moisture here so let's just wipe it off so uh at this point we can close the environmental chamber while the system is pressurized so we don't depressurize before we actually put the caps on okay so we have this uh the trainer um that plastic transducer that sits here put it there so i do recommend to lubricate the thread so next time when you open it i will be easy um okay okay silicon seal goes here so we get our spinal range give it a little bit of turn nothing crazy okay now we're going to close the tank and depressurize the system you can see the the seal is actually get indented inside so that's what it's supposed to do so after the full uh adjustment uh the regulator is ready to be tested in the water um now what i can recommend i can recommend like either use the big top or the bucket or go to the lake uh or where you're actually diving and if it's a fairly clean water so you can see through like the pressurize the system submerge that whole area where your first stage is in the water and observe if there's any bubbles so if you see the bubbles coming anywhere between these areas here so you can just try to use the spinal rage wrench and uh tighten it a little bit more if you still observe the air bubbles so you would have to disassemble this clamp here and reposition the the diaphragm so the diaphragm may not be sitting properly um normally i don't have any experience with licking the regulator so it's pretty much good so yeah make sure you did this testing before you go for actual dive other than that well thank you very much for watching um let me know if you have any more questions about this presentations i'm planning to do more videos in near future i'm probably gonna do the bcd service with the inflator valve cleaning and all the dump walls cleaning and maybe something else um yeah you can like it or dislike it comment and forward and subscribe to my channel thank you very much and have a enjoyable and safe diving experience see you next time

Channel: Flanker SU-27

Views: 1,624

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Id: sR6DHJ2tcCA

Length: 41min 32sec (2492 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 19 2020