[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom

hello everyone welcome to another how-to episode today I'm gonna be showing you guys how to do an ice place in Dyneema now I'm gonna show you how to do a nice place the easy way and then the proper way this here is SK 78 it's a class 2 fiber and the one we're gonna be using is 6 millimeter this has a breaking strength of 8700 pounds so this is incredibly strong what you need to do for a class 2 fiber is you need to take whatever your diameter is and you're gonna multiply it by 72 in our case we have a six millimeter rope so when you multiply that by 72 you get 432 millimeters this is how much you're gonna bury for a class to ice places so you can see that is a significant amount unless you have a metric tape measure you need to get this in two inches so to convert from millimeters to inches it's very simple it divided by twenty five point four which gives you 17 inches so what you need to do is bury 17 inches the first thing the way that this stuff works it's pretty much a Chinese finger trap like if you push on it a little the weave opens up and inside is completely Hollow so you can simply push something in there and then when it tightens back down it's gonna pinch it and hold it and you're done it's very easy in that sense to actually splice this stuff now the problem with it is it's very slippery if you bury a whole lot it can actually still slip out so let's start the actual splicing what you need to splice is simple a set of fits now a fydd there's a whole bunch of different styles I personally prefer this one it's made by Samson it's a very simple fit it's simply a solid cone and then there's a little hole in the back that you stuff your line into and that's it this you can feed through things if you need to push it through a lot you can just tape this on to help secure it it's very simple and then you take a pusher and you push it in with this all the pressure will hold the rope in so it doesn't slide out and you just push this through things it's very very simple to use so this is actually all you'll need as far as tools go I'll put this and a knife and a tape measure that's all you need to build an entire setup of synthetic standing reading it's very very simple to work with this time so let's start you want to do the basic and easiest device places we're talking the long berry ice place and a long berry ice place is very simple you're simply going to make an eye and then bury this into the other part just gonna open it up and you just insert the FID there's gonna go between the weave and it's 12 strands that are wrapped around nothing so the inside is hollow so you can very easily push a fit through it now unlike class 1 rope were you should use the fit that's appropriately sized for it since the fit measurements don't matter I like to use a larger Fed simply because I can fit the line into the back of the fit it just makes it simpler so I'm just gonna push the fit in really far here all the way in push the weave on to the Fed the fit will open up and then when you get pretty much a full fid length in and you're kind of running out of room I like to have it pop out the side and I can always bury it back in I like to think of it as a dolphin swimming through the water like imagine this is ocean and this is sky dolphin pops out and goes back in and it's swimming along the surface same thing you pop the fit in you push it through it comes out you pull everything out you go back in you push it through and you can do really long lengths that way so we have the line loop through you have the Fed popping out the other side you're gonna take your pusher and I just push it into the side here and it's just to create enough pressure so that the rope doesn't slip out and you're just gonna push it through until it pops out the other side [Music] okay and then an interesting thing when you bunch up the weave it's actually gonna get shorter and then when you elongate it bring it back out you'll see that it stretches out so this is called a long berry splice now if you're gonna actually do the whole thing you then do like the dolphin and you push this back in and bury it all the way to the end we're not gonna do that because I'm gonna show you guys the better splice this is the easy way but it's not the good way now the reason this sort of works is if you have tension on the lines so the lines under load it's under tension it's like a Chinese finger trap and it pinches down on the Buried part and it it really it won't budge like it's it's really stuck that's great as long as it's under load you take the load off and the line kind of bunches up and gets a little bigger and it's not gripping it as easily and it just slides right out of there so what some people talk about to reinforce this and make it a little safer is they'll actually bury stitching through it and you'll sew all the way through the whole thing and the idea is the lines running like this and you have this thread Criss crossing it and locking it in now that's great because it'll hold it while it's not under tension but the problem is your strength is actually coming from thread not from Dyneema so I don't know if your threads gonna have a breaking strength of 8700 pounds like this is so is that something you really want to run the risk on so you can sleep see how easily it comes apart which is why I don't ever use this place because it's very weak this place I like to use is called a Mobius Brummel locking splice so all it's doing is locking the splice through twice so you just create this pattern and then the line the tail gets buried that's all you're doing to do this place you still need the same amount buried so you just need to know that this is the amount of tail that you need to bury in there we're just gonna open up the line and you're just gonna push it straight through you're not doing a berry on this you're just pushing it right on through and since it's short you don't really need the pusher because if it comes out like that it doesn't matter because you can just grab it and pull so that's your first one now you need to do the second one so if you're working with a short line you can very easily do the same thing and take this line and pass it through this line and that's easy it's you're done you have your your lock created and then you simply bury the tail and everything is hunky-dory but what if you're working in a case like this where you have all of that and you don't want to have to pass everything from this very end through the other line what you do in that case well there is a trick you have the line this is gonna be the ice place this is gonna be the tail that gets buried so what you're gonna do is imagine the splice is going to go here I'm just gonna open this guy up and you're gonna push one fit through the normal way and this is another reason why I like these fits the ends are cut at an angle so you can easily put two fits together so you're gonna slide him through until they're in the middle and then you're gonna force boasts both fits through in the middle and all you're doing is you're opening up the hole and making it much bigger for the step that's gonna follow so you can twist it up and down now you've created a giant gaping hole the line starts here runs up runs through itself and then comes out and you have this big hole here you're gonna pass this part through itself again so you're gonna have this shape so it's gonna go up through up and down again so it looks kind of like a clover leaf or half half of a clover leaf so you're gonna pull it through all the way until it flips on itself and you get kind of a weird twist to it and the reason you want that twist because the very next step is you're gonna push the whole loop through this and if you don't have that twist then you're gonna end up with the twist in the finals place or if you preload the twist the twist comes right out and there you have locking splay so this is a Mobius Brummel splice and you can see the line comes through and then goes through itself and this one pierces through and then wraps around so it's it's locking together this part cannot come undone even without bearing the tail like it's it's fixed and it's strong and if I pull in the wrong side this little tail here the worst that's gonna happen is the eye splice is gonna close on itself it's not going anywhere it can't go so this is a very strong splice and this is actually the splice I do at the end of stays for synthetic standing rigging that is how strong the splices so you have this nice long section here and a tail that needs to get buried so what you're gonna do is you'll pull the tail back and then right at the base you're gonna open it up and slip the fit in [Music] okay so there we're pretty much coming to the end of the fed so we'll pop out and I'll load the tail on to the end here over the Fed and one thing you'll notice I'm not using any tape anywhere no pens no marks nothing and that's simply because I've got a lot of practice with this if you're starting you'll want to tape the end of this and you're gonna want to mark where your tail starts where your eyes go everything you'll put little pen marks it'll make your life easier but once you get the hang of it just don't need to do that anymore so we push it through feed it back and you can see that the tail is about to disappear back into the weave if you want a sort of strong splice but don't really care about strength you can leave it with this blunt end at the end of the tail this is actually going to be the weak point so your weak point isn't gonna be the splice it's going to be somewhere in here where this end comes inside and what's gonna happen is just as you see here it's very large and then it's a quick drop down to something small that's gonna create stresses where the fibers have to change drastically and that's going to be your breaking point so if it's something that isn't really going to need eighty seven hundred pounds you can save yourself a lot of time and not taper this but if you want to do it properly you're gonna be tapering what you're gonna do is you're gonna do some basic math so you know you have twelve strands you need to cut off eleven of them if you cut off eleven strands you're gonna have one strand that's full length you know the full length and that'll be strand twelve strand eleven will be shorter ten nine eight seven six five four three two one all the way back to the bottom if you're doing standing rigging this has to be absolutely exact and what you're going to do is you're actually gonna count all the fibers all the way up to the top and then divide that way you know exactly every fourth or every fifth fiber you're going to pull it out and cut it off so we got one two three four five six 5:36 to calculate the taper that you need to go from here where you're gonna have 12 strands to here where you're only gonna have one strand what you need to do is count how many fibers or how many strands there are all the way up now it's 12 strands how can I count each one because I'd be a whole bunch what you're gonna do is you're just gonna follow a line and count each diagonal one that's running in that same line and then divide that by 12 so in our case we have 36 we divide that by 12 that tells us every third strand we're gonna pull it out cut it off and that'll give us the taper that we need start down here so this is our bottom one we're just gonna pull it out and then it'll get cut off and then go from there now real quickly you're gonna find that you're gonna be running out of strands and an even line because you've pulled them all out so you're gonna have to start taking on the ones that are next to them or closer just in that general area but you'll have them all set out here evenly spaced so you can see that the next one's gonna come pretty much from this area this is going to be the longest one and then the rest get cut off at their respective locations so to cut Dyneema you don't want to do a hot knife and just melt it because what's gonna happen is you're gonna create all these really sharp spots in it so you want to take a sharp knife bend it over the blade and just slice it off and it takes some effort but it will cut so one of the arguments against synthetic standing rigging is if you piss someone off they can come to your boat and cut your rigging off with a knife it's like yeah they can also take a hacksaw and cut your standing rigging it's not easy to cut because it's synthetic it's still really hard to cut so here you have a properly tapered tail you start off with 12 strands you end up with just one so at this point you can take out your pin and you're just gonna milk the line back into the housing or the casing [Music] and the N disappears and if you did it properly what you're gonna have is a nice smooth taper where you can't really feel where one line stops and the next one starts so it just tapers down to absolutely nothing and this is the strongest type of ice place you can do in Dyneema this one will not come on slipped it won't just slip apart or any issues like that it's it's rock-solid you do not need to put stitching through to help secure it in case it comes loose while it's not on the load because it cannot come loose because of the lock that happens right here in this place so this is done you never have to worry about this it can take the full load that you want to put on it of 8700 pounds because that is the breaking strength of this line and with the splice it is just as strong as it was so this is the way to properly splice Dyneema I hope you enjoyed this tutorial on how to create an eye splice in Dyneema let us know what your favorite use for a nice place is down in the comments down below and while you're down there if you wouldn't mind liking and subscribing to our Channel it really helps the channel grow and it helps us bring more videos like this to you 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Channel: Rigging Doctor

Views: 126,512

Rating: 4.928081 out of 5

Keywords: Synthetic Rigging, dyneema, rope splice, class 2 splice, class II splice, high tech splice, eye splice, dyneema splice, amsteel, standing rigging, running rigging, spectra, dynema, long bury splice, lock splice, dyneema rigging, dyneema eye splice one end, diy rigging, how to splice rope, amsteel blue, standing rigging replacement, locking splice dyneema, splicing dyneema rope, splicing rope

Id: UpkqJ4GRfSg

Length: 18min 17sec (1097 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 04 2019