Rejuvenating a 27-Year-Old BMW E36 328i - Project Valencia - Part 2

coming up the Forbidden shower spraying everywhere run argument with a wild dog the oil pump Strikes Back yeah and the first drive in the E36 [Music] for project Valencia in this episode we are going to rejuvenate this beautiful E36 328i our mission is to turn this classic inline six-cylinder BMW into a reliable go anywhere machine and we shall do so by throwing this big pile of parts at it unfortunately my SanDisk SD memory card died and I lost a bit of footage where I started to work on the car so I'll have to talk you through some of the stuff that I've done and pick it up from there first I started by warming up the engine and putting liquid Mall engine flush to flush the engine next was to attack the leaking valve cover and at the same time do the Vanoss and spark plugs the engine is a bit wornished up but not too bad and thankfully there's no sludge and the camshafts are in perfect condition I also removed the radiator coolant lines water pump and the thermostat and that's more or less it the next step is to set the engine a TDC top dead center and lock the timing so we can remove the Venus unit to set the engine on TDC we need to rotate the engine or the crank pulley slash vibration dumper and we know we're getting close to the TDC once the camera Globes and cylinder number one on the exhaust side and intake side point at a 45 degree angle at each other like that then we need to line up the timing marks on the vibration damper and the timing cover after that we need to go underneath of the car in that area over there and just above the oil pan and below the starter there is a plug that we need to pull which is going to uncover a hole where a locking pin from our timing tool kit goes that locks the flywheel and therefore locks the timing of the engine now we can remove the studs on the back of the cylinder head now we need to break out our timing tool and this fits over the back of the camshaft like that and it should sit flush with the cylinder head that's the timing tool in place now you can remove the Vanos line and plug the connector remove the two screws release the sprocket bolts now we have the lock pin from our timing tool kit and we need to press down on the camshaft timing chain tensioner and lock it [Music] now we can pull out the vanish unit and we have this special tool and we need to turn the sprocket clockwise and pull on the vanish unit at the same time there we go say hello to a brand new Vanoss unit from propstone Tech that's right not rebuilt but a brand new unit for the m52 engine also York is the only person to offer brand new vanish units for the M54 engine as these have been discontinued from the dealer this year and they also come with upgraded bson Parts no matter which model and Vanos unit you have you can find rebuild kits tools and refurbished or new units on their website their customer support is truly amazing and I can't recommend them enough thanks jorg while the Vanoss is off we are also going to replace the diaphragm spring as if worn it can cause rattle from the Vanos so what we're going to Simply do is take the plates out clean them and flip them around that way we have a fresh side and it's like a brand new plate a Clean Plate brand new spring diaphragm this is the Old Spring diaphragm and you can see where all around it this is the old disc and you can see we're on it as well and we're going to Simply flip it around and get a brand new Surface and this is a nice thing to replace while in there brand new nuts run your gasket problem the timing tool that I got turned out to be complete garbage and it allows for a lot of play in the camshaft which can result in incorrect timing so we're going to hit the pause on the Vanoss until a better tool arrives and continue with the oil filter housing gasket in the meantime Look Who's Back let's see what did you do what did you do no you're supposed to sleep on that no let go but gong let's see okay that's enough that's enough let's bring in some water good dog no she's gonna follow me around tilty here the other way if you understand what I'm saying how much see there you go Stir It Up this broken as you can see it's fully shot you can remove it wiring disconnected wow let's connect the oil pressure switch connector the power steering pump can sit on the side now and that's the oil filter housing gasket and a little check valve it wasn't leaking but the main reason I'm removing this is to replace the check valve let's first remove the old basket yeah it's I like plastic this is the check valve and its purpose is to keep the oil inside of the oil filter housing so when you start the car you get instant oil pressure here I've noticed that if the car sits for a few days and I started there will be a rattle from the engine and the red oil light which indicates oil pressure stays on for a bit longer normally it should go out within a second that means that the oil is draining from the oil filter housing and this check valve is not doing its job this is made from plastic so it'll break sometimes it can get stuck and then the oil drains from the housing directly into the oil pan and takes a few seconds to build up oil pressure so we're going to fix that by removing this thing and installing a one that's all aluminum this is Billet aluminum I believe so a nice upgrade and something that you should definitely do when doing the oil filter housing gasket so to extract it I've seen people use screwdrivers and just poke all around I'm gonna try with pliers to twist the thing and then pull it out I think you're going to take this to the white stuff easier hmm there you go it's out and we didn't damage the aluminum this should be a direct fit let's see excellent so that's that with a spring inside this is never gonna go bad and this is the one with plastic garbage which will break and get stuck over time and then you'll have that issue brand new gasket now the Vanoss line brand new Venus line bring your crush washers finger tight and then we're going to torque it once on the car we are also going to replace the oil pressure switch brand new or E1 from hella comes with a fresh gasket again we're going to talk it once in the car MIDI she's so cute oh pressure switch and then the Venus line and with that we can continue with the Vanos have the new timing tool here so now if I try to move the camshaft it does not have a stupid amount of play now we can reinstall the Vanoss so pull it all the way to the right like that and then make sure the holes are lined up that they're all the way to the left which is correct a bit of oil here I talked to York from prop syntek and he told me that the absolute best way to reinstall the vanish unit and to make sure it's installed correctly is to find the smart gears or magic feet something like that we need to find feet that match with the splines here and once we do that we can just push in the Vanos and this will move this sprocket here where it needs to be and the Vanos is going to be installed correctly after that we need we don't need to use that Auto Tool we just have to make sure that this is uh fully retracted in otherwise if it's not the timing is going to be off so make sure that's all the way in now we need to start it so I'm going to slowly turn the shafts until I find those gears and then push the Vanos on oh down my bit there it is that's installed all right so I'm going to do this again and zoom in on this so you can see it better for example put it here and try to push it in you can see that's not lined up properly but if I move it over you can see that now slotted in and I can push the vanus in so and like that the Vanoss is set correctly now what you don't want to do is take that tool and crank this over further that way that will just pull the Piston out of the vanish unit and it'll mess up the timing now we can remove the tensioner pin and we can tighten down the sprocket here make sure your socket is clean and it's not full of sand because you're touching bolts that are inside of the engine now we can remove the timing tool now we can check and measure the adjustment of the Vanos unit so I have the adapter here that we are going to attach where the Vanoss line goes now we need to apply compressed air here TSS between two and eight bars I'm gonna go with four and then we can apply 12 volts to this Vanoss solenoid connector here but be careful there is a positive negative it's marked on the connector plus and minus and then we can measure the travel of the Venus unit and if it's more than 8.5 millimeters we are good if it's less than 8.5 millimeters we need to remove the vanish unit and readjust it plus to Plus you can hear the solenoid clicking okay okay four bar wasn't enough I had to go with six so I turned up my compressor and now if I apply 12 volts you see the camshaft moving so I need to grab my caliper and measure 47.9 so we have 47.9 when we activate the van of solenoid and now we have 38.5 which is 9.4 9.5 millimeters and that's bang on the money it is above 8.5 so the Vanos is set properly now we can disconnect this mumbo jumbo now the two plugs I forgot to buy them brand new so for now we're gonna run with the old ones and I'm gonna place it in order for the new one so I'm gonna replace that once it comes in for whatever reason they made it in such manner that you can't just replace the crush washers the rest of them are torqued now we can reinstall the wiring here clip now is a good time to remove the spark plugs so you can turn over the engine easier and I also blow it out and vacuum the spark plug holes but that footage is gone it doesn't look too bad they definitely need to be replaced now we can rotate the engine twice but first bit of oil for the camshafts so I've lined up the marks on the vibration damper and the timing cover you can see that the timing tool is sitting flush with the cylinder head so we are safe to proceed and reinstall the valve cover that's the surface prepped now we can put back the two studs in the back the cover for the intake cam brand new gasket you can use a little bit of RTV to keep the gasket in place otherwise it will drop out when we flip over the wall cover I'm going to replace the grommets now we can apply a bit of rhinestone seal where the Vanos meets the head and then on the half moons in the back the torque is 10 millimeters but I typically go by hand because you can feel once the nut bottoms out so start from inside throughout in a crisscross pattern once you feel that the nut bottomed out and you can't torque it anymore just stop there and you're not going to over torque it and snap it you can plug in the Vanoss solenoid brand new crush washers and give it a nice good and tight new spark plugs NGK of course these are the famous bkr-6equp the spark plugs that you use on the M54 engine as well as the s62 and this was a tip from Jurg to use the ones with four electrodes instead of the ones with two he says that the idle is going to be much better plus I love these spark plugs so we're gonna go with that we're keeping the old original coils because back in the day they made things to last nowadays new parts the quality of new parts sucks so until these die they're going to stay on the car brilliant the wiring we're gonna do a bit later brand new oil cap now I want to reinstall the water pump in the thermostat but the coolant in this engine is disgusting so I want to flush the block a little bit and then later I'm going to crack open the drain plug on the Block and get as much of this nasty coolant out I had to go to the software store and buy this high-tech garden hose look at that nasty coolant gonna continue flushing until it becomes clear great fine Scotch Brite brand new water pump water pump pulley thermostat and thermostat housing better silicon spray on the O-ring foreign so the bigger ones we can go to 22. and now we're going to attack the oil pan [Music] brakes were not that's okay we're gonna replace them Monroe Reflex we need to replace that as well the bump stop is completely gone look at this the car has original safety wheel bolts but look at the cover it has the emblem on it and this is the original cover from 1996 because today you can no longer buy this when you buy this cover it's blank there's no emblem on it nice little detail the oil pan is not leaking heavily but it is a bit wet and since I'm doing a thorough service on this engine I want to make sure I cover that as well for the future owner but first i'm gonna remove the coolant drain plug on the Block and get the rest of the coolant out so get ready for a shower oh oh wow spraying everywhere run free shower completed where did the plug go here plug going back in with a new Crush Washer excellent to get the oil pan out we need to lower the subframe so we're gonna start disconnecting the suspension components unbolt the control arm bushings there you go look at that that is incredibly nasty parsing fluid it's super black should be pink you'll need to flush that next disconnect the steering column but first we need to Mark its position also going to replace the steering coupler steering column joint place an order for a new one v46 this always goes bad then it gives vague steering there's play in the steering wheel not sure if it's the same on the E36 but we are going to replace it foreign this line that's coming from the CCV regulator you need to replace that as well now we can go up top remove the engine mode nut I think that was ever off we also have the negative cable there smack s my fingers good here we need to make a bit of room this intake boot is trash it's cracked now there's a 10 millimeter bolt holding oil dipstick to the intake manifold screw is out now I can pull out the dip support brace [Music] now I need to support the subframe and lower it to the point where we can get the oil pan out okay look at this something Bolt brand new that's why I love cars from Spain okay I forgot about the power steering line that goes from the from the rack to the power steering pump that should be plenty and now we have enough space to remove the oil pan you cracked open the coffin ah now I have to remove the power steering pump I thought I could slide it out but yeah actually I ran into the same thing on Project Rothwell didn't I kind of remove the parts three Reservoir since we are replacing that oh okay not terrible definitely better than project Rothwell it's cracking how's the oil pump nut it's good now I'm going to remove this oil pump and the buffer plate so we can clean it the gasket is cooked it's cracked so it's a good thing that we're doing this first thing we're going to do is put all of this in the ZZ machine can I let that cook for 10 minutes okay I had high hopes that I can remove this baffle grind this rivet Off remove the baffle put in the vapor plastic cabinet and make this soil pan look better than brand new unfortunately I can't do that because my idea was to drill a hole and tap the threads here but there isn't enough meat here enough aluminum to do that so it would have to be welded back in place and I don't know how welder nor do I know anyone that can weld aluminum so I have to clean this by hand so I'll see you in about 18 years the ZZ machine did a wonderful job of cleaning up all of this too bad it's not big enough for the oil pan this is not perfect but it is clean now we're going to remove the oil pump so we can inspect it and clean it the oil pump nut is a left hand thread it's actually not that dirty yep so you can see two Marks here and that way you know that this goes back together like that yeah it looks good nothing terrible to report now I can remove this regulating valve is it stuck okay Dutch should shoot out memory serves me right appears to be stuck yeah like that then there's another part there so I don't need to fish out there it is off to the ZZ machine all right let's see [Music] that's squeaky clean quite happy with that okay I need to rinse this out now that looks spiffy huh time to reassemble the oil pump first a brand new o-ring here fogging oil for men make sure that this slides nice and smooth nice and easy put it back in the same order as before clean socket make sure that the pump is spinning freely which it is and we are ready to reinstall the pump we're also going to use the safety nut with wire to secure the oil pump nut in place might as well clean all around first Loctite now I can counter hold the crank and give it a nice gluten tight safety wire and this way the oil pump nut can never come off on its own oil pipe with a brand new gasket run your gasket goes like that and we're gonna use the good old trick with zip ties to hold the gasket in place we need to apply a bit of Rhine to seal where the front timing cover meets the block on the back as well now you can cut the zip ties all right I'm just going to start them with the electric ratchet and then we're gonna torque it to spec [Applause] the torque is 10 millimeters and because this is a metal gasket and metal oil pan you don't have to go in a crisscross pattern there are a couple here that I need to do by hand and then the three Torx bolts power steering pump brand new power steering reservoir power steering lines and engine mounts original mounts the power steering line brand new crush washers oil dipstick with a brand new o-ring foreign Reservoir what a stupid place to place it the ground strap but clean it first I'm blocking the camera aren't I wow that's too bad we need to replace the zip ties that someone put here steering rack boots I haven't checked but hopefully it's not leaking nope it's good nope the other side is dry as well mustn't forget the drain plug what do we think does mutzi deserve a treat chicken she loves chicken ah where's come brand new OE slash original parts we have Malay premium line radiator Zach's fan clutch fan blades builds pulleys and coolant hoses you couldn't use a bigger plastic nut brand new rubber holders here oh this was never replaced I got a brand new tensioner as well here's a brand new one so when you have a brand new tensioner like this one it is important to compress it three times fully keep it there release and then do the same two more times and that way we're gonna get a good service life out of that tensioner ah make sure that's seated properly all around beautiful plug in the connectors and the coolant lines I think I prefer the clip on the other side the clamp me excellente that's it nothing more than that Clips here almost forgot the covers for the pulleys that one goes there we have fluids from liquid Mali ATF for power steering correct coolant and 5w40 full synthetic oil top up the power steering fluid foreign now we're going to replace the CCV crankcase ventilation I just got the parts for that looks like we have three 10 mil screws all right there it is brand new original crankcase ventilation first The Grommet and this is dead easy so much easier than on M54 and a lot less components as well this is the old line that goes to the oil dipstick oh it's actually it's broken torn so that was leaking and making a mess here it's connected brand new steering joint steering wheel I need to line up the marks and install it we're gonna do medium thread Locker here while we are here we can replace the fuel filter and this cover is broken I just placed an order for a new one hello so it's actually leaking here earlier I was messing around with these lines and had a leak from there brand new fuel line brand new stainless steel clamps pay attention to the arrow right to date kilometers I think 191 I can't remember this is the old air duct for the alternator as you can see it's broken and this part is nla no longer available discontinued from the dealer you can't buy brand new So Max from MX Motorsport sent me a replacement one and this is just one of the goodies that he gave me for this car and we're gonna get to those a bit later brand new intake boot air filter box brand new air filter ignition coil wiring all right Gonna Leave the plug disconnected for now because I want to crank over the engine and build up the oil pressure first we've got two brand new plugs here all right ignition coils are disconnected I also pulled the fuel pump fuse and now we're going to crank the engine over to build up oil pressure because we had the oil pump disassembled and we also replaced the venous unit sounds good back diffuse power steering pump okay we need to check the power steering fluid level yep that's slow I can't get to the funnel thank you it seems that the parsing pump is happy that being said I'm going to drain and refill power steering fluid at least three more times because it looked really really nasty the engine sounds good nice and quiet cold start actually a lot better than before but I don't have that footage anymore but anyway now I'm going to let it warm up and then just make sure there are no leaks and then we can continue with whatever else we need to do the engine is fully up to Temp sounds great no leaks so we are good to proceed brand new struts from Bilstein this is their B4 OE series I also got new strut mounts from them dust boots and bump stops currently we have sharks from Merlin Monroe installed and the bump stops are completely gone so that's the main reason why I want to take them out but since we are taking them out I want to upgrade them and install Bilstein struts because these are they're not very good foreign Uno masaki normally you shouldn't do this let the whole thing dangle by the brake line but I don't care because we are replacing the brake lines and this is shaping out to be the easiest BMW model that I ever worked on like look at this to take the strut out takes like a minute very much [Applause] there's still a little bit of a tension here so be careful it's third I just remembered I forgot to buy the spring pads how did I manage to do that I always buy them always let's disarm the bomb okay we're gonna have to hit a pause actually let's see if this is any good are you good fantastic quality it doesn't even look that old it's garbage original equipment approved manufacturer for what toys it should do that should rebound I had a bad feeling about them and I was right okay unfortunately we can't proceed with the replacement of the struts right now because I have to place an order for new spring pads that's probably gonna come tomorrow or maybe the day after that so let's continue with the roof shocks and this is what's left of the of the bump stop the rear ones must be good come on time to save your pretty face Merlin oh yeah it's brand new perfect This Is My Magician trick it's gone you can't see it and now you can see it again all right I'm gonna start my own show buy a big batch of Monroe shocks and just am I even saying anymore let's get this garbage out are there any Clips here looks like nine okay okay open sesame pop goes the third I don't understand the mechanics who replace shocks and reuse old Hardware look at this strut mount and that paper gasket and the bump stop all right okay okay okay don't use an impact if you're planning to reuse the shocks yeah as we established earlier this this is brand new nice good and tight and the bump stop be bumping now you need long arms I can't do it no maybe get this ladder here I'm gonna use my assistant here finger tight and then the final torque is done with the car down on the ground and suspension fully loaded now we're going to replace control arm bushings currently we have melee bushings on here and that is unacceptable they are of very poor quality so that's coming out I am a human press near the Press now we're going to hold a press conference and press out these bushings and then press in or eat lymphota ones hello to press in the new Bush incorrectly we need to line up this arrow on the bushing with the notch on the bracket foreign [Music] right in the middle so this arrow with this Notch here a bit of silicone spray make sure you press it in the right way in there we go and you go and now we can use a bit of brake cleaner to remove silicone spray so it doesn't collect dirt and dust there now we're going to replace the rear sway bar links and bushings well there you go I was sent incorrect bushings these are too big so the correct ones are going to come a bit later and for now we're just gonna do the sway bar links the rubber is really perished carbaggio oil importer all right we'll need to do this one figure tight as well and then torque with the suspension down on the ground so it will come for the bushings a bit later brand new cover for the fuel filter got the new spring pads and the top gasket and also bring your nuts brand new spring pad The Bump Stop then the spring a washer dust cap another washer and a brand new net good and tight cap we need to make sure that the spring is seated properly all the way in in the upper Purge and the lower as well easy peasy lemon squeezy also I forgot to buy another thing which is the reinforcement plate that goes on the top of the strut mount here I place the northern now it's going to come tomorrow so for now we're going to reinstall the strut and then tomorrow I can just lower the strut slightly Slide the plate in and then bolt it in place okay copy paste on the other side very good lemon front sway bar links not good and the rubber is perched as this is a bushing as well just finger tight and then final torque with the car down on the ground the sway bar with brand new bushings [Music] normally I would be replacing the control arms and the tie rods as well but to be perfectly honest with you there is nothing wrong with these parts here the boots are still in good condition the bulgence are good there's no plane suspension there she's gonna leave them be and now the brakes new rotors and pads all around brake lines which is essential in a car that's 27 years old and probably never had them replaced then wear sensors Springs and of course the brake fluid foreign foreign is perfect wear a mask for this jeez break cup paste only on the lip not on the flat surface the rotor cleaned up caliper bracket press the caliper foreign foreign so first we're gonna withdraw the bad fluid so we don't push this through the system should be yellow close to transparent fresh.4 you're gonna go with 3343 PSI all right let's start this miserable process the clutch pedal feels a bit spongy so I also want to bleed the clutch line and at the same time we're going to replace the clutch slave cylinder because I know from experience at least on E31 that's something that always goes bad with age all right brand new slave cylinder from ate all right now we need to bleed the clutch line same Principle as with the brakes okay we are a go the missing sway bar bushings this is the reinforcement plate that I was telling you about earlier this goes on the top of the strut mount and a brand new gasket so I'm just going to slide that over in place real quick perfect and a brand new gasket they're forcing place for the rear shocks the last remaining fluids differential fluid and the transmission fluid the manual transmission in this car calls for ATF and that's what I've been running in my E39 M5 E60 M5 basically in all of my manual cars because ATF works really well when the car is cold you can shift through all the gears nice and smoothly and once it's warm it still works great but lately I've switched to a mix of MTF and ATF reason being if you're using your car normally then ATF is perfectly fine but I'm pushing my cars really hard on the Autobahn and say if I want to go to a race track you need something that's thicker than just ATF and that's where MTF comes in so I've been running 50 50 mix of these two fluids and it works perfectly it's still nice and smooth when the car is cold and it feels even better when the car is warm so that's we're going to put in this car as well always start with the fill plug sure is ATF I'm going to use thread sealer on the plug because these leak very often all right that's full now we need to let it drip out now you can refit the plug finally the fuel system as I already said the car is 27 years old and all of the rubber fuel lines look horrible so we're going to use OE cooline fuel hose this is rated up to 125 degrees Celsius and briefly up to 140 so you can use it in the engine bay two fuel lines in the engine bay this is clip-on style so I have to buy them from the dealer special order and then stainless steel fuel clamps edel W4 really good quality and OE fuel pump that's simply preventive maintenance with a brand new gasket man the letter is beautiful oh that rubber hose looks terrible this is what I meant when I said that the fuel lines look terrible that rubber fuel hose is no longer rubber it's solid plastic and it needs to be replaced foreign ER the fuel tank is nice and clean as you can see here we have the return line that we also need to replace now I'm going to jump underneath and pull out these few lines all right gonna go cut a new one even going in this is the feed line that I just pulled out this leaves above the fuel tank runs from the pump to the bottom of the car we have a hard line in the middle this is plastic and then BMW decided to use crimps here to make it more difficult to remove the rubber line but it's doable we're just gonna Dremel this out remove it and then we can use our brand new hose here otherwise this line is part of some fuel kit that you can get from the dealer and it's 300 Euros here we're going to use these clamps because I'm afraid that if I use the one that has a screw this is going to rub up against the chassis or something so it's better to be safe and use this careful when cutting [Music] there we go stupid crimp this is why it's very important to replace them especially when the car is over 20 years old rubber doesn't last forever and we need to sneak this line through here now you go down see if you can clip it in make sure to the lines are routed properly and clipped into place and lastly the feed and return line in the engine bay pop just a quick tip regarding the removal of these fuel lines you need this fuel line disconnect tool set I think I got this on Amazon or Ebay it's this plastic wedge thing that you wedge here and that way you spread the clips and you can pull off the fuel line easy as that the windshield cowl is cracked so we need to replace that and the wiper blades as well that's better this cap here dropped it underneath the intake manifold somewhere so I need to place an order for a new one hood shocks foreign shocks as well this Rubber seal around the rear window is falling apart gonna quickly replace that as well a very small detail but it looks so much better this bumper trim here is damaged so we're going to replace it brand new one from the dealer trim coating from Geon the hood emblem is worn out this is one of those goodies that Max from MX Motorsports gave me original style 32 16 inch rims for the E36 in brilliant condition as you can see and he didn't want anything for this he just said take it 1836 owner to another what an absolute Legend thank you so much Max I just installed brand new Continental tires and now we can put it on the car and see what it looks like now we're going to jump over on the four post lift and torque down the bushings thank you and then guten tight for the sway bar link bushings couldn't find the torque spec for that and mustn't forget about the rear sway bar link bushings as well now we need to replace the cabin air filter which conveniently lives in the dashboard well there it is disgusting absolutely nasty brand new one and I was wondering why this thing rattles so much literally made out of squeaks now we're going to replace the radio the the current aftermarket unit is an eyesore in this interior it just looks out of place Ah that's wonderful this is the replacement unit from Blau punked it weighs absolutely nothing it was only 100 euros it has Bluetooth it's not great quality it's not even good quality but it sort of Blends in with this interior because the design it's a bit old school so hopefully this does the trick because they didn't want anything fancy it just needs to work and look somewhat decent let's see if you work oh yeah it works oh yeah yeah I gotta say the quality of materials in here is abysmal Bluetooth [Music] you know what it's not terrible it's good the key looks worn out with the four spoke steering wheel and in with the three spoke M sport steering wheel you know who gave me this that's right Max from MX Motorsports fill and dunk Max this is so much better than the four spoke one all right with that we need to vacuum up the interior clean the carpets clean the leather clean the dash interior detailer from Geon now we're going to clean the interior with color lock leather cleaner strong a little cleaner Rising with the letter is not that dirty letter protector from color lock clean floor mat these are discontinued no longer available brand new this color of floor mats the driver's one is not in the greatest condition but still holding up the rest of them are pretty good and with that we're done Petty [Music] thank you [Music] let's go for a spin shall we the car did pass tooth inspection but it's not registered so I borrowed red number plates from my friend dealer plate so we can go for a spin we're going to hit the Autobahn and back roads and see how this little car feels there is one thing that remains to be fixed which is the ASC light that's on on the dash right now my ads cable which is needed to read the ASC module died a new one is coming so once that arrives then I can read the code and see what's wrong and I'll fix it off camera but everything else spot on so this car doesn't have an adjustable steering column apparently up to 95 that was no longer an option the steering wheel is just stuck in one single position which is a bit annoying but you can adjust the seat and get it to a somewhat comfortable position here we go first time on the Autobahn with the E36 all right all right all right all right pulls that's 160 there 180. cruising the 200. and 5000 RPM oh it pulls lovely have the little m52 so the reason why I went with Bilstein B4 is I've never tried them before and I want to see how they compare to B6 which is always my go-to shock and B6 is a bit on the firm side but the ride is just Sublime it's more on the sporty side this feels more plush so I think it's perfectly suitable for this car third gear holds beautifully oh a lot of money roll yeah the B6 definitely films were planted in the corners 2000 RPM third gear it has the torque and it pulls beautifully cleanly Earth matching is easy as far as the interior goes the leather it's in great condition the interior looks beautiful but it is probably the poorest quality interior that I've ever seen on a BMW everything rattles everything is squeaky everything is making noise even the turn signal stock listen to this foreign ly but I guess that's just how the E36 is does Drive absolutely wonderfully engine is so sweet it pulls beautifully and cleanly it is a beautiful hot summer day thankfully the AC is working in this car some codes in here okay clean pull in second gear what a beautiful summer day look at this road keeping up with a modern day Kia Stingray something I don't know I have actually overtaken the thing 236 to 10. it feels quite good honestly I mean the engine is screaming at 5000 RPM in the fifth gear it feels solid happy little car actually pulls a lot better than that than what I expected 210 overtaking an expensive SUV if it decides to move I like this car a lot yeah 2 30. I really do like this car a lot this is the ultimate test for me if I can roast it on the Autobahn at high speed and nothing breaks then I know it's good unfortunately the time has come to say goodbye to the E36 it was short and sweet and a big part of me wants to keep it badly but with two new projects coming in September and 250 current ones the reality is that I simply can't it is a great reliable car for any occasion the m52 is as robust as it gets and it's very simple to maintain the car is in great mechanical condition now the interior is beautiful and the only downside is the mismatch paint but the most important thing is that it has absolutely no rust or auto body damage otherwise a lot of you send me messages and emails when the first episode dropped so I'll start getting back to you and I'll update the description once it's sold not to worry though this most certainly won't be the last E36 on the channel thank you so much for watching and I hope that you enjoyed this short series see you in the next one thank you

Channel: M539 Restorations

Views: 610,752

Keywords: e31, bmw, 850i, 850ci, restoration, revival, barn find, e39, e38, m5, 740i, 840i, 840ci, 850csi, csi, 8er, 8 series, classic cars, bimmer, 540i, v12, 535i, 750, e46, m3, m70, road trip, m73, budget, first start, car project, b7, b8, alpina, restore it, e34, e32, e24, hoovie's garage, hoovie, tavarish, doug demuro, vin wiki, vice grip garage, car throttle, samcrac, e60, s85, v10, challenge, m54, 3er, 325i, chrisfix, detailing, disaster interior, detailing geek, top gear, edd china, cartrek, Abandoned, dealership, alfa romeo

Id: lE4M1uTHMSg

Length: 63min 12sec (3792 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 24 2023