Hello and welcome in this video as you can
see this is the semi-trailer of the video will be working with a pex pipe we will be
replacing all the galvanize that you see here in this home this is a two bath house one
laundry kitchen and two outside faucets and the issues was the customer was not getting
any good water pressure and if you are failure with the old galvanized piping and live in
a home that have those galvanized lines you could understand why these pipes need to be
replaced this is just the beginning giving you an idea on what I will be covering in
this video with the pex piping even replacing the drywall and cutting into the wall and
all the prep we need to do to get this pipes replaced ok now were going to start right
here what I am showing you here is one of the hall baths and you can see that as they
have had a lot of work on the house done kind of semi remodel but they seem to put the cart
before the horse personally I would replace pipes first then then had all this cosmetic
work done because now it become a very difficult job there not going allow me to tier this
stuff back out so we are going to have to be very creative and that also what this video
is about creative plumbing most time when you’re doing a renovation and replacing
the water lines in the home you have to be very creative because you don't want to totally
tear the home down just to get plumbing water lines in the home in the pass yes you would
have had to do stuff like that but now that we have new piping system like the pex piping
it makes it a little easier and it make it a lot Here
The home was new there was No roof, there were no walls, and dry
Walls, also plumbing, it was easy to put in At the time, in the pipe so easy, but now
We have to work around all this stuff And you can see here, we're up in the
Attic and you're going to see what the What I'm going to have to crawl through
I have to make things work Yes, I'm going to have to crawl back
The highest point on this roof is Probably in many in the Attic is
Probably about four feet, maybe four and A half that much right here of even at
That's when I walked through their hand For balance myself on these rafters
I'm still bent over because there's no The way that you can actually stand up
Straight is not enough room This has a given you an idea why you know
If you are having this type of work done Your house
Are they can have it done you can Understand why anyone would the cost
Would be anywhere from like six to ten Thousand just for a two-bath house
Because of the work that's required It's not me it's and just in case you're
Catching this video You know years later on being all right
Now The year right now is 2015 about the
Turn to 2016 and this is around in October when this job was done
So that gives me an idea of the pricing Now in 2015 compared to whenever you're
Watching this This is anywhere like I said from six to
Ten thousand a job this job would have At least been 10,000 if not more because
Of the two accesses into this roof it Was so low and very tight work in uh
It's not too many plumbers are going to Do this of very cheap
The people here were fortunate that I do Know them and I wanted to use it as a
Video my luck, I picked this one It wasn't easy anything that could go
wrong went wrong Anything that wouldn't wear, it's
Supposed to be with layer and example This of water here
This is one of their thankless water Heaters the only thankless water heater
Who put this here I don't know I've know you seen one like
This but I'll discuss it with them and See if they would like to change this
Out or you know I really don't want to Mess with it because it doesn't look
Like it's up to code Now this is the laundry room and
When I was working this laundry room I guess when I kind of pan the camera
around you can see that with the Refrigerator in here you've got the
Washer, dryer and that little thankless Water heater and very tight working in
This area and I always, whenever I'm you Know making a cut into the wall
I do try to do a neat of job as I can Because I know the guy that that may
Become behind me to replace the drywall I like to make it easy for him as anyone
Would make it easy for me if I had to Come behind them and besides I just may
Be the guy replacing this drywall, so I Can make this nice neat, clean job and
Come back later and it makes my job a Lot easier to put this stuff back or
Anyone else And of course yes I just bought this
Level This is a two-foot level
This way I get my nice straight lines And the purpose for cutting this piece
Of drywall out is so that I have access To the old galvanized pipes and access
To install the pex pipe as you know fit Pex pipe is very flexible and I
Can't push it up into the attic and get Where I need it
And this is my little drywall saw also Known as a keyhole saw and for those of
You that are a stickler on Terminology
I'm here down in Texas the southern part Of Texas and when they speak of drywall
they say do they call it sheetrock and I Now for some of you up north and out in
The Midwest that you do use the Terminology of drywall so just want to
Kind of clear that up and throughout the The process is this video I will be trying
To cover the different terminologies for The different areas
So there was counting on the same page Because if you like me
Use different terminology you throw me Just like completely off so I'll try to
Cover as much as I can and if you have Any questions yourself
P please feel free to you know write it Down in this is prescription down below
Let me know what you would like to know What you would like to a video you like
To see anything And I like using this my little drywall
Saw it makes it easier because um you Can do it by hand and whatever you
Cutting you can kind of feel what's Going on back there so to make sure you
Don't cut anything that you shouldn't be Cutting
You'll know when to stop when you get Into a spot where it you feel a little
Toughs it up and you work your way around That
And this is probably the best way too cute Drywall if you're not sure what's going
On behind the drywall If you try to use anything like a
Reciprocating saw Also known saw saw it's possible
You can cut into the wire, pipe or anything Else back that you should be cut into so
Doing it by hand, you feel a lot more you Feel a lot safer
It's slower, but it's worth the wait Yeah
And you know a lot of times when I do Cut drywall sheetrock
I do like to take it out as neatly as I Can but in the case of this one here
Since it's going around the pipes It's not it's going to come out neat
But it would be nice if I could take out In one piece where that one piece and go
Outback in but that's not going to be The case here
I'm going to have to break this and just Take it out in pieces and when the time
Comes to replace it with, it will come up With another plan to make it look as
Smooth and even as possible and cut Around the pipes itself
Ok, now we have our access cut into the A wall
where we have exposed the
Galvanized water lines the hot and the Cold, cold always being on the right
Right and hot always being on the left And of course, there's some insulation
This is an outside wall so the outside is Right on the other side of this if we were
up north Midwest or any area of the country and it gets really cold this wouldn't happen
these pipes would be inside or either coming up thru a basement or somewhere but they would
not run it on the outside wall because of the freezing temperatures here we really don't
have that issue here is the kitchen sink and again there is an outside wall and we spoke
about the freezing and this area probably the coldest it's going to get is probably
20 degree's now what I'm doing here is I'm panning the camera around and being creative
and getting an idea of the best way to run the new piping without having to tear out
all the new cabinets because that will be ridicules and very expensive to tear those
out and having them put back in so I removed the refrigerator and it looks like the best
access that I have is from back here where I can cut the drywall and run the pipes back
here and from back here I can take it and go through the cabinets on the back side of
the cabinets and come out on the other side with hot and cold and we are also going to
replace this ice maker box also
and just like I cut the hole in the laundry room same thing here going to take my 2 foot
level and mark it off and getting a nice straight lines and cut this part of the drywall out
so that we can have it set up for the new PEX pipe coming in and also the of course
removing the ice maker box and having access to replace that too the galvanized pipe to
this and you can see I'm taking the drywall saw kind of reaching back there to see if
I feel anything on the pipes below anywhere so that I make sure that I don't cut it to
anything that I don't need to cut into and I shouldn't cut into right here you can see
I'm tapping the back end of the drywall saw just enough to get my saw in there so that
I can actually start cutting because just trying to push it in there is pretty difficult
so just give it a slight hit in the back and kind of pushing it through and again when
cutting into drywall like we are doing here this is something you do not want to try with
a reciprocating saw electric reciprocating saw or battery operated saw because of the
fact you make it not as easy to control as you can with this hand held drywall saw
and if you’re not familiar with using a
reciprocating saw or any type of electrical saw it may turn out to be a bad situation
so this is the most affective and safest way that I can think of to cut this drywall other
then I have done before I used a router I had a 98 family unit apartments that I had
to do so it's quite a bit of work to do and all that work would have been quite a bit
of work for me to just cut by hand so I used the router and the router allowed me to just
to go the half inch or 3 quarters inch depending on the depth of the drywall and not go any
further and hit anything that I shouldn't hit so it worked out pretty good but on small
jobs like this I do like just taking my drywall saw and just like making a nice cut and taking
my time and have a nice straight line and by the way everyone doesn't own a router and
there is no need to go and buy one unless you’re doing quite a few of these or if
you
are a carpenter finish carpenter. By the way these is a small cramp spot that I'm working
in the refrigerator is tight actually I'm squeezing between the refrigerator and the
cabinet to get in here and once I'm in here I'm on my knee's with not much room to work
in so it's a cramp spot just to give you an idea and since I made one pass over it I feel
much more confident in really going in to depth with this drywall saw because now I
know there nothing back there that is in my way at least not in the spots that I'm cutting
in so the second pass is actually the clean cut completely through the drywall
and one thing I do know when I'm making this
cut here I don't really have to make a line because I know that the stud is right there
because the ice maker box has to be nailed to the stud and it's right on the corner there
and now we are pulling it out now the good thing about this here is that I came out in
one complete piece so I can actually use this piece over so when I do the work that I need
to do in here I can that this same piece of drywall and put it back and tape and float
it they can paint it they can do whatever it's behind the refrigerator no one's really
going to see it but we are going to put the dry wall back again you see the drywall you
see the galvanized pipe and behind this wall is the outside wall and one thing I like to
do as I'm working sometimes some of these idea's I have just don't come right away to
me so what I do is I try to keep myself busy and find the easiest things to and as I'm
doing the easiest things the things that I'm having problems with actually just starts
to come to me because I actually start seeing the whole picture when I start cutting into
two things and finding other alternative to run pipes just like here in this toilet here
of course that's tile like a marble tile we do not want to take that out so what I'm going
to do is I'm going to come into the master bedroom because that's the master toilet and
I'm going to drill from that side out in where the drywall is and right here this is the
bath sink in the master bath just giving you an idea of what's your going to have to work
with here this is very tight you can't see it I can actually barely get the camera and
myself in here so what I'm going to do is again this is being creative rather than trying
to go back into the same spot where the original hot and cold water line to this sink is I'm
going to bring it out of another wall which is the same spot where the tub and shower
valve this panel here I'll remove it and you'll be able to see the tub and shower valve and
I do apologized about the light it's a little bit too bright and it didn't look to bright
with the camera up in here but coming back editing I can see that it's was a little brighter
then what I needed it to be so this is where the tub and shower valve is and we're going
to replace the pipes to that but we're going to keep that same tub and shower valve and
also in that same wall I'm going to bring the hot and cold water lines out to the bath
room sink because trying to go into the wall as you can see there where the valve is coming
out it's going to be a little too tight to try to get the new plumbing in there so I'm
going to make it as easy as I can on myself and like I said you can't really see the spot
that I'm in it's really too tight to do what I really would like to do so again this is
the getting creative I'm looking at it and studying it and finding the cavities meaning
the openings to where you can run the pipes with as little discussion as possible and back to the toilet I was telling you were
here in the master bedroom and that’s where I'm going to run the pipe for that toilet
up into the attic and now we're in the hall bath this is the bathroom sink in the hall
and again tight spot to work in but I do have a little more space for the hot and cold on
the sink itself now the difficult part here is going to be getting to the tub and shower
valve it's really I'm can’t even explain how it's so hard to get to this spot and again
I'm going to apologize for the light again because like I said it didn't look as bright
when I was up under here working but again coming back to editing I see that it's pretty
bright and right here you can see that's a panel and once we remove that panel will we
have access to the tub and shower valve and again we don't want to go through the front
because it's been tiled already and we do not want to damage any tile and we want to
do as little as destruction as we can and it makes it very difficult when you have to
work like this in these conditions but you know sometimes you have to do what you got
to do now do you see the part where my hands are going through that's an opening for the
draw that's why it's so tight to get into here because I can't only get through this
spot and if you know the size of a draw it's really tight ok now we've got to the point
where we can't expose the tube and shower valve you see right there ok now what I'm
looking at now is that I'm going to need a little more room to actually get to this tub
and shower valve especially on the right hand side from where your viewing so what I'm going
to have to do is I'm going to have to cut some more wood and extend the paneling to
a bigger opening so that I can get access to make my connection to the tub and shower
valve and what I'm doing here is just kind of feeling around to see what kind of room
I've to work with and that's how I know I don't have the room to do what I need to do
so I'm going to have to make the room to do what I need to do and also when you see my
hand back there I was looking and feeling to see if it was nothing that I was going
to cut into nothing that I shouldn't so what I'm going to do is I'm going to take this
small reciprocating saw battery operated this is like one of my #1 tool I love it this tool
and since this is wood it’s not so easy to cut like drywall sorry battery powered
and again I know there is nothing back there my saw blade is going to hit to cause any
problems are any issues it's me getting my hands in there and me getting in there to
position myself to cut this so of course you see now I'm taking the other draw out at the
bottom.. Here we go. And the saw blade that I'm using on here is a wood cutting saw blade
they make wood cutting saw blades and metal cutting saw blades this is a Milwaukee small
reciprocating saw 12 volts it's very fast it's strong and no there are not paying me
for this I just love their tools and that's because it makes it allot easier using these
tools. Now there we go now I have a little more access to get to the tub and shower valve
it's going to work because what I need to do is get in here and use a PEX word bow elbow
90 that I can adapt it to the valve from the valve to the PEX piping ok here we are this
is the same bathroom sink that we just cut the tub and shower valve opening wider it's
just now we are over to the part to where we are at the same cabinet it's just that
we're right up under the sink this time and we're going to cut out access to run our new
pipes from the attic down to here so we're going to make the opening so we can feed the
new PEX pipe down we will be able to pull it out from this end and another reminder
hot is always on the left cold is always on the right if it's not someone made a mistake
and it happens but just keep a memo note of that so that in the future it may come in
handy I don't know and just like what we did with the laundry room when we cut that out
this is definitely not going to come out in one clean piece
so it will come out in pieces it will still
be a nice straight cut sure enough but we won't be able to use this drywall over and
here we are back in the kitchen you can see where I started running some of the pipes
up to the attic and bringing down behind the refrigerator so I'm going to utilize that
space up there and now we've brought it all the way down to the back side of the refrigerator
so you see the holes that I drilled here actual there is one more hole to drill because one
hole that I drill didn't work out I don't know if you can see it kind of hit the corner
where the draw went so I going to have to rise it up a little higher are lower and make
my cut again and this is where I'm going to feed the PEX pipe and again we are back in
the laundry you can see how tight that working in that laundry room is there is really no
room ok I'm just kind lining it out on where my head where I'm going to run the pipes and
again this water heater I don't even know where they got this from and who even hooked
it up but anyway we are back out into the hall bath sizing it up again remember the
access here I guess with that shoot there that I just gave you can probably see allot
more then what that tight spot I to work into to do that and again here we are with the
tile thing we do not want to mess with and this was another tricky one that was on my
mind as I was running pipes were to relocate it and I did come up with something and you
will see it later and you can see here I do have one of the pipes through this is one
inch PVC pipe which I will run the PEX pipe right through the middle of it and the reason
I'm doing that is because just for safety reason and so it doesn't tear up anything
because we all put things in our draws and in the cabinets and I just didn't want anything
to catch the PEX pipe so it's back there protecting with a sleeve the PVC piping ok here we have
a roll of PEX piping and the fittings we are going to use the connections meaning the fittings
meeting the connections the valves and everything that connects to this pipe are Ubonor or Wirsbo
so if you go the supply house are anywhere that has PEX pipe you want to use the terminology
words bow and if they don't know that let them know that it’s for Ubonor fitting is
what you want with these pipe and right here is the master room that’s where your looking
up into the attic were I drilled a hole this is where the main water line is going to come
into the home from the back side of here which is the outside wall again and here we go with
the drop down ladder
and this will be a lot of fun running up and down this drop down ladder because it's in
the most awkward spot that you can think of anyway usually when I do go in the attic I
always bring a piece of 2X4 like this up with me this plywood will allow me to lay it across
the ceiling joists that I can get a little more comfortable rather than straddling the
joist’s and as you can see how tight the area is this is a very tight and small attic
the highest point of this attic would probably about maybe 4 feet if that much and if you
look straight back there in the dark area that's the area I'm going to have to crawl
to so I’m going to have to crawl up under this duck work to get access over there so
that I can grab hold of the main water line coming through and pulling back this way so
I'm kind of clearly the way so that I can get through there and yes they do have allot
of stuff in this attic this was one of the most difficult re-pipe jobs that I basically
ever done it's was pretty difficult because of the size of the attic and this particular
day was a hot day about 80 degrees outside making this inside temp probably close to
90 and then we have the humidity so you are going to hear me breathing pretty hard and
struggling up here because of the lack of oxygen and the heat I would probably recommend
this job for 2 people or 3 rather than just 1 I am doing this by myself and it took me
a week to do this and I'm not pushing myself to hard and the reason I've done this by myself
is so that I can focus and get a much video footage as I could and make this clear as
I could possibly so you guys right here the viewers can see exactly what’s going on
and right there you can see the galvanized pipe along with that little piece of fitting
is a repair company and this is one of the issue on why these pipes needed to be changed
out they are starting to get pin holes as well as the pressure decreasing because it
was filled with so much calcium this is years and years of buildup in these galvanized pipes and we are in the Houston area and allot of
Houston and outside surrounding areas will run into allot of older homes that do have
allot of galvanized even back in the 80's they ran galvanized I know you guys up north
Midwest areas starting running copper long time again but here they have ran allot of
galvanized pipes in the 80's and you can see I'm slowly working my way to the back to get
access to and actually right I am looking to see if I can see the pipe I can actually
barely get back over there right where you see that 2X12 right here right over this I
should be able to see the pipe which I don't think I have it up far enough right now so
what I going to have to do is go back down yep it's allot of work but I am going to have
to shimmy myself back down and push the PEX pipe up so that I can get access and actually
reach it and pull it from that spot right there which you see what I'm looking at were
you see that light spot there and again yes I’m seating here pausing because I am trying
to catch my breath and cool down a little bit and not over heat and work myself and
making plans to shimmy my way back
the
spot that I am in is so shallow that I'm more than just on my knees I'm actually on my knees
and actually have to squat my knees just to get into that spot but as I come out this
end slowly I start having a little more room to come up it's still quit tight and all this
stuff in the way is not helping it would have been nice if I picked a
easier job with a little easier access but
you know what this is probably the best because most of you that is watching this if you can
deal with this trust me anything else is going to be allot easier then this and there is
the furnace and A/C unit all combined together right there with all this stuff ok here we
go I put duct tape on the end of the PEX pipe so that when I do push it through the joist
none of the installation or other stuff would get stuck in the pipe and I put the little
curb at the end because we are right at the edge of the roof so I put that curb in there
so that it would push up a little easier and again here we go to the drop down steps and
you see the steps just made the door I guess now some of you can understand why a job like
this might cost anywhere between $6-10 thousand dollars because this is a tight area to work
in and it's it hazardous job working in attics for one you can easily fall through
and it is allot of stress trying to crawl
through here right there do you see that dresser coupling
again ok finally I made it to the end to where I
can catch on to the main water service that will be coming into the house and this is
going to be the main water service going straight to a manifold that I made pacifically just
for this job and of course I'm trying to catch my breath I'll pull this as fall as I can
and I'm sure it's going to get a little caught so I will be running back down stairs to push
it up a little more so this is probably going to be one of the hardest part of the job I'm
just getting this main water service through here and this is 3 quarter inch PEX and I'm
using the blue for cold to indicate the cold and the hot for the blue and the red pipes
ok you didn’t need to see the rest of that me torturing myself so I'm just going to fast
forward it to the spot where I want to get to where I'm fighting with it allot bit but
it's getting to where I need it and I should have to crawl back to the other end again
the only time I need to crawl back is when I start nailing or anchoring the pipes back
to the joist the ceiling joist you know you never know what you’re going to find in
people attics ok now I'm just about where I need to be I'm a little further by the steps
you can see over there to your right you can see the opening and that pipe right here is the gas line so
I'm real cautious of that of crossing back and forward with that it's really not allot
to worry about its black iron pipe and very sturdy now right here is where I need a pipe
right here and this is the spot that I am going to make all of my connections to my
manifold again also known as a Mani block a home room box or a junction box this is
where all of the water throughout the house is going to get distributed from this location
once you see when it's put together
ok I'm taking a trip back into the laundry room right here you can see where I made a
access to pull the PEX pipe through because this part of the attic is very tight I could
not crawl through this if I wanted to so what I'm going to have to do is push it from a
distance and get it over to the point where I need to get it I going to show you the outside
of the area of the roof so you can see why it's so tight you can see right there that
little corner of the building right there is the laundry room and you can see the roof
and how much space there is to get in there and there in none so I'll have to crawl through
the main part of the roof and work my way around and feed the pipe over to that area
of the house and I just panning you around to give you an idea of the roof that
I have to work in up in the attic and showing the roof and you get an idea of the space
I'm working in and see how low profile this roof is very tight and this is the front part
of the house I knew from the first time that I looked at this roof that this was going
to be a difficult job but this was the only job that I could find at the time to video
tape at my ledger at the time that I can focus on it ok rather than work up in the attic
those tight corners what I'm going to do is do allot of assembling my connections down
here on the outside where I have access to everything more light you name it it's going
to make job allot easier prefabbing stuff up and then once I go up there I can just
set in in place and start running pipes to it and it will all be build up these are what
I'm showing you are the fittings those little white rings are what the call blueprints those
are used to go over the pipes and their expanded with the pipe and once there expanded we release
and the pipe comes back down and squeeze over the fittings like this, This is a PEX ball
valve which is a Ubonor again or words box 2 different names meaning the same company
that makes it words bow fitting words bow dropped at 90 again also known as Ubonor and
this is just an ordinary outside faucet that we are going to screw into the fitting once
we bring the pipe out through the wall we're going to use galvanized through the wall we
are going to use short pieces of galvanized like this here and we are going to use that
half inch for our cut off valves up under the sinks so that we will have something sturdy This is a manifold this will allow me to run
3 quarter inch through it and come out each one with half inch to catch a toilet and a
sink and a shower which will be one group of a bathroom for hot or cold and this is
basically the same thing so this one we are going to use and once I build this manifold
it will be built to isolate each restroom it will isolate the laundry and kitchen so
that is there are any issues with the plumbing this is going to be use for the main water
line coming into the house through the wall so that it will have stability and of course
I'm going to use my great stuff to seal any holes that will make through the brick wall
to run the galvanized pipes again for stability and what I'm doing here is I'm just kind of
lining out and getting in my head how I'm going to build this manifold and you can see
the number of valves I'm actually going to use is a few more then what I have here these
valves are going to allow me to isolate the one bathroom from the other it’s going to
allow me to isolate the laundry from the bathrooms and the kitchen etc. to me I like allot of
valves allot people have had their plumbing changed with PEX pipes and in remodel jobs
and renovations and re-pipes like I'm doing here allot of times you’re not going to
get allot of plumber that’s going to do this isolation stuff like I'm doing here allot
of the time you’re going to find this type of isolation of plumbing in newer homes and
of course right there I was showing you the tool that I used to cut the PEX pipe with
and these are the blue print fittings you notice that this is the expansion tool
it expands the pipe apart and the memory of the pipe brings it back together and it grips
around the PEX fitting this Ubonor or Wirsbo fitting creating a nice tight sealed connection
and the isolation as I was saying isolated one bathroom from the other and this way if
someone is having a problem with one of the restroom they don't have to shut down the
whole entire house they can just shut that one off and by the way this expansion tool
you can also get it where it's manually where you can use your hand you don't need the battery
operated but for me I do it quite a bit to where it would were my arms out so I rather
do it this way and actually the manual one is really not a difference in price so if
you’re going to do it quite a bit this is the tool you want to get
and you see how I gave it a minute once I
expanded the pipe and slipped it over the fitting just give a minute it's nice tight
and it's sealed it's not going to go anywhere and the reason I lay this stuff out like I
got it laid out is because it reminds me of what fittings go where because if I just tossed
it around and just made it up and just put it in I'm sure I'll forget like Oh I forget
a Tee I forgot a valve so just keeping like this until I'm done it helps me to remember
where every things is going and if you notice when the expander is expending the pipe the
shaft is going in the inside you see it turn every time it expands open as it opens and
it closes and it turns just a little bit so if you were doing one manually with the regular
tool that’s you work with your hand it really hard to do that process with that particular
tool so you can't bet that here now there are other fittings out there that are for
PEX pipe Zurn makes fittings but me personally this is what I prefer the Ubonor or Wirsbo
as far as code goes they want the opening of a pipe are any fitting to be the exact
same opening as the pipe itself with Ubonor or Wirsbo it keeps it at that opening the
same diameter as the pipe but with the others the fittings are a little smaller then the
diameter of the pipe so there theory is that is starts losing and getting friction because
it's banging up against something smaller then the oriental size so inspectors and plumbing
inspectors what to see the opening as wide as the diameter of the pipe the inside and
me personal I feel it makes a much better and much tighter seal then any other Pex fittings
that out there on the market now when you see that stuff that our retailer carry the
hardware stores and such like home depot and Lowes there not going to carry the Ubonor
or Wirsbo at least now they are not carrying I'm hoping in the future they will carry it
but now when you go there you’re going to get the Zurn type fittings and they’re going
to sell the Zurn type tools so this is basically a plumbing supply item that you’re going
to find you’re not going to found to many hardware store that I know unless they changed
and again this is the year 2015 about to be 2016 so we will see what’s going to happen
in the future here and this is aqua flex PEX piping it's a lot
more flexible then allot of the other PEX pipe that you would find on the market and
the more flexible the more give it got the easier it doesn't chimp as easy it's flexible
it's not only flexible but it's thick and sturdy now the black fittings that you see that I'm
using the black plastic fittings you can also get those in brass you can get it in brass
is allot more expensive but allot of people may feel more comfortable with the brass but
I'm comfortable with this here the black plastic here is very sturdy it's strong
and it also keeps the cost down so you getting Now this is actually the this is like the
second day that I'm out here on the job it's allot cooler today which would have actually
been a better day to work up in the attic and the rest of the week supposed to be pretty
nice so when I go back there is should be a little more comfortable at least as far
as the temperature wise I tell I would have never attempted this job in the summer time
its fall so it makes it a little easier in the summer time if I had done something like
this I would have had to gotten other people to help me with this and we would have got
it done allot faster and not burn one person out especially with the hot heat down in Texas
ok it's slowly coming together it's got a little bow in it so what I'm going to do is
kind push down kind of get the bow out of it as much as I can but I'm not really concerned
to much with that because I will brace it against something and pull the bow out of
it and once it settle in place and it's being used the PEX pipe will become relaxed and
it will work itself out but you can see how I lifted that up and put it over there you
can see how sturdy it was so ok we are done with the cold manifold now
I'm going to make up one for the hot and of course it's going to be red indication red
and hot red for hot and blue for cold and again it's going to be the same process with
few less fittings because you don't have as many hot fixtures running through the home
as you do cold and that’s because you got the toilets and the outside faucets so you
going to have a few more cold fittings ok we basically have the hot water manifold
made up a few more fittings to put in here and you can see that’s this is where I'm
changing out the head on the expander going from the 3 quarter inch to the half inch and
you see how quick and easy that is this kit comes with a half inch a 3 quarter inch and
a 1 inch head ok here is my little system that I made up here my manifold this is the
platform that I'm going to us and I'm going to take these and place it up in the attic
up against the 2X4 that bracing the roof and I’m screw that to them and it will be nice
and stable and all the pipes will come to this and only this. this makes it allot easier
rather than climbing through the attic and trying to connect every little joint this
way I have everything in the same location and I don't have to continuously crawl through
the attic I'm going to place the hot right here and one of the reason I am doing this
is because I guess it's physical logical hot always on the left and cold on the right so
I'm going to put the hot here and the cold on this right here that going vertically up
ok and right now I'm holding up upside down just seeing how this board is going to fit
up here the piece of plywood that I've got everything attached to see this is a good
location it's going to work great I did and I would have liked to put it down stairs somewhere
probably a closet or something like that but they had so much work done in the house and
I just didn't want to damage anything so after a while I looked around and this is what I
came up with I said hey I'll just put it up here in the attic and they can just run up
the stairs and that way they can have access to it and besides you see all this stuff they
have in the attic the closet is pretty full to again this manifold is homemade and like I
said I made it specifically for this project here let me give you an idea of one that’s
made up from the factory would look like now this is what a factory word be manifold would
look like if it looks any differently then this more than likely it's not this the have
the black mana block that’s made by Wirsbo so don't get it confused again this is Wirsbo
manifold this is a large house here so you can see the numerous of fittings and valves
that they have on here so this gives you an idea this is what you’re looking for if
you’re going manufacturer me this is homemade and of course this is going to be allot cheaper
I'm not trying to take any business away from those guys but those are nice manifolds but
they are quite expensive there and always when I put valves in and most plumber when
they do put the valves in we always put then in the off position because it's easier to
forget and go turn the water on and realize o to late water is going everywhere so you
make it a practice so that every time you put a new valve in its off before you cut
the water on and all these are off and the way that you can tell there off is if they
are going the opposite way of the pipe these are PEX ball valves Wirsbo Ubonor so if we
want them on we just turn the valve handle the same direction that the pipe is going
and that will be on position and what I'm doing here is just securing my
panel to the 2X4 making it nice a sturdy so when I do start putting the pipes together
we want have anything moving are jiggling around it will nice and tight and straight
and remember the main water line this is I'm pulling it through here and this will be the
first piece of pipe I connect to the manifold and it will connect right there to your left
of course on the blue side because it's cold water coming in and that valve right there
to your far left at the bottom that’s where the main water services is going to come in
and start to distribute throughout the house ok and this is where you can see the blue
half inch pipe that I tied in up the top manifold the left hand side of the blue that’s half
inch and that’s going to one of the bathroom it’s going to go into the shower the toilet
or one of the fixtures just one of the bathroom and that unit right there will go to on the
left with go to one bathroom and the unit on the right will go to the other bathroom
isolating the cold and
this is the half inch aqua flex that I'm unraveling ok here we are back in the laundry room you
can see that I made my drops down from up to the laundry and I have the cold already
connected and now I'm going to cut off piece of the PEX here to connect the hold water
faucet I wish you could see a little more of this but I'm sure that throughout the video
and the beginning of the video and you probably understand the process of what’s going on
and once I get the expander to open it up wide enough I got to move a fast as I can
to get this piece on here on there and slip it on you can see that the piece is already
made up so that I don't have to try to turn all that behind the laundry it's already been
done and prefabbed up outside and we will come back later and we will tie that down
put some type of board to screw that into be stable but for right now we are going to
just let things hang and dangle the water to the house is on they still have water and
I'm not going to turn the water until the day I'm ready to tie everything in and that
should take me about half of the day to tie everything in again we are up under the kitchen
sink and you see the PEX pipe and you see the cold right here it’s going through the
1 inch PVC and we are going to run the hot and then we are going to screw this down to
make it nice and strong and stable we will screw this into the back of cabinet another
thing good about a 1 inch PVC sleeve is that it makes it easy to feed to one end to the
other without getting stopped in the middle as you can see I'll just go straight out and
not get tangle up in the draws and stuff like that and again this is part of the creative part
of being creative rather than destroying and tearing everything up is working around all
the things the nice cabinetry and woodwork that’s been done and counter top we are
not going to move all that so it makes it allot easier and convenient and here we have
where there is our new ice maker box that we are going to use and again the water is
hooked up the older ice maker is hooker up so they do have water to the refrigerator it's never easy working up under a cabinet
here I am just showing you where I took the drywall screws and screwed it to the back
part of the cabinet and it makes it easier for me to put the valves on and turn it and
here we are in the hall bathroom you can see that I made the drops here the hot and cold
drops for the last sink here, and I made the drops for the shower the tub and now here
we are in the master bath and the tight area that I had to work in that’s why I brought
the pipes out on the other side behind the shower it will be easier for me to access
the shower rather than trying to go back to where the original pipe is ok now we are outside
this is the back side where the ice maker box is and where my hot and cold water lines
is going to the kitchen sink it’s all going to tie into this little area right here and
what I'm doing is just beating a hole through the brick wall so that I can run my galvanize
pipe through here so it will probably be about 80 inch piece of galvanized piped protruding
through the wall and I can catch it on the other end and connect my outside faucet to
this area right here and again I'm using the galvanized pipe so that I'll have stability
and it will be nice and sturdy and as I make this hole I just constantly turning the bit
and I'm trying not to make it no bigger than I have to and this hole will go completely through to
the other side on the back side of the refrigerator ok this is going to be again our outside faucet
for the water hose and water in the grass and all that good stuff now I know allot of
people up in the north and Midwest is a but colder your kind of surprised to see it look
like it is you got to get used to having a anti frost seal cox put in this here is standard
because it doesn't freeze like it does up there so there is no concern to have to having
anti frost here now we are back here back again we are behind the refrigerator area
where the ice maker is so we starting to tie up our pipes together ok we catching the ice
maker our outside faucet you can see the outside we are going to full that hole with some great
stuff expandable foam and we are also going to spray the expandable foam in right there
between the stud and the pipe to make it nice and sturdy and secure and so happens that
the piece of drywall that we did cut out of there once I removed the older ice box just
flip it around it works on the other side and it works out like that’s
