Panasonic GH5 Overview Tutorial (Stills & Video)

I'm Tony Northrup and this is my free tutorial for the Panasonic gh4 favourite her favorite video camera this is going to be a long tutorial but you have to watch the whole thing check the description down below you'll see a table of contents so you can jump right to the part that you want to see I suggest you grab your camera and actually work through some of the stuff because when you're actually filming something or shooting something it's going to be the muscle memory that makes it happen like your fingers kind of need to learn it to walk through it if you have a different camera visit sdp dot io / tutorial and you'll find cameras for just about every camera tutorial so just put every camera out there send your friends there first I just want to shout out to Panasonic because I read the manual to make this and make sure I don't miss it see an important feature page 201 you will see a picture of me on the advanced user guide that's that's me right there playing playing golf it's a stock photo like they clearly just bought it I just thought it was a funny little Easter Egg that they hid in there to actually put me in the user manual it's a weird experience to read a manual about a camera and see yourself in their shells they took that picture first let's talk about the battery we're going to go over the bits and pieces of it there's a little flippy door on the bottom here you flip that out of the way it flips open and then this little lever here releases the battery these are the same batteries as on the gh4 so if you had the previous generation of the camera as we did you'll appreciate that you can continue to use those same old batteries their big batteries they last a long time but they do not last forever and if the battery runs out during a shoot you're screwed right like we've had shoots ruined because of a battery and that's the dumbest feeling because you feel like oh I ruined a whole shoot but I didn't spend because I didn't spend fifty extra bucks on a battery so definitely pick up an extra jh5 battery yet you'll see these SDP dot IO links throughout the video those all send you to Amazon that's our affiliate accounts we get a few pennies out of every dollar we appreciate the support that you give us you can also get third-party knockoff batteries but we've had those die just randomly on us we've tried like all the different brands and they just seem to randomly cut out so we stick to the actual name-brand ones the Jewish five does not have USB charging which is a pain because when we're traveling we'd like to just use a USB power for everything so what we've done instead get this little double risky charger that you can hook into USB battery or your USB port on your car whatever and just charge batteries on the go and it will charge two batteries at a time and it's smaller and thinner than the battery charger that came with your GH so you can pick it up at stp iOS GH 5x2 from amazon if we worried about battery power you might also consider getting Panasonic's vertical grip which will store an extra couple of batteries in it and just have you just shooting all day so you don't have to worry about them that link will take you there the lenses here are pretty straightforward of course they'll snap on regular bayonet mount just snap it on until it clicks line up the red dots and I'm will go back and forth and make sure it's okay you will notice some lenses will have the power oh is switch on them you pretty much need to want to leave that on I've never had any problems caused by the optical image stabilization on it let's move on to talking about the memory cards memory cards are your digital film they're hidden behind this little door here so pull that back and it flips open gh pod now has two memory cards thank goodness because we've had shoots where we filmed everything and then the card was ruined and we tried things like photorec and couldn't recover it so it's really important that you record the two cards whenever possible it supports UHS too you don't have to do it just do it just two cards are expensive and you don't need them to record 4k I would however suggest putting loading two matching cards in larger cards or better than smaller cards let me show you how to actually configure it to write to two cards at a time turn the camera on with the big switch up there great place for the switch to set up the dual slot function hit the menu button here in the middle of the directional pad go to your wrench icon and then on page three or four go down to double slot function select that and go to recording method and select the backup recording record same photo video - both cards in one shot now video or stills is going to write it the same thing to both cards so if a card fails if slot fails you can keep on going talk about memory cards like I said it supports very fast standard UHS two cards and you're only going to need that if you're shooting stills continuously really so if you plan to be using those 6k shots which we'll talk about in a little bit or if you're shooting sports or if you just sound buffering to be a bit of a problem grab a UHS - card they're more expensive and you can't even get high-capacity versions like 256 gigs and up on 128 gig versions we can grow them at our amazon link here scpi o / wages - we use the X Pro send us excurrent stream Pro cards we don't have an affiliation with them they're just the cards that we like usually the 256 gig versions because I'd rather have running out of space grinds the whole shoot to a halt so I'd rather have far too much capacity grab these at stp IL / X Pro if you run into a problem where a card won't write this is just a common problem that people run into there is a little a little write protection thing here just like old-school floppy disks if you remember those I so wish manufacturers would just remove this from SD cards but see how it has a little lock icon there if this thing moves accidentally sometimes it will get brushed or if it breaks off the card won't write one nice thing about these Sandesh cards we have on break and we just I just sent it in them and they just sent me back a brand new replacement so that we could warranty on those things talk about the physical ports on the GH 5 they are everywhere most of them are along side the left side here up separate is the mic jack I'm glad that they put that one separate you can run in a standard mic here maybe a shotgun mic here or lab mics or whatever I'll make a couple of suggestions later on right below that to find the headphone jack for monitoring your sound I suggest you use both of those if you're recording in a kind of video I see people using mics but no headphones but you don't know if the wind is hitting it or if they're getting interference from your wireless labs and then the big slot down here as a couple of different ports that's an HDMI port full size HDMI port Thank You Panasonic so you can run it to an external recorder or sometimes people want you they want you to like hook it up to your TV because they imagine you're putting on a slideshow but nobody does slideshows like that anymore just show people on your phone at the back of the camera and then right below that you have a USB C port for fast file transfers and such it doesn't charge through that but you could use it to transfer files from your camera to your computer I tend to use a memory card reader just because they tend to be I don't know it's easier than hooking up a USB cable before we start actually shooting I want to show you a diopter because that's another common problem that people run into when using the electronic viewfinder here you'll put the camera to your eye and with the default settings the camera will automatically switch over if stuff looks blurry or if it looks like you think your camera is not focusing put it up to your eye and then turn the die after here which is very hard to see little hidden dial here see how it like clicks up and down you hold it to your eye and look don't look at the scene but look at the numbers and writing at the bottom on top of the screen look at those things and turn that until they're nice and sharp if you're an eyeglasses where this allows you to take off your glasses and look through there and just suddenly have perfect fashion it's actually a really easy way to see you around it's also really nice at night to use that electronic viewfinder if you pass the camera between multiple people you might have to warn them if you've changed it like you're going to put it up to your eye and not be able to see a thing because I'm blind something like that let's actually take a picture throughout this video I'm going to be switching between telling you how to take still photos and video photos though most of my emphasis is going to be on video recording because that's how we tend to use the g-h five nonetheless it's a totally capable stills camera so to take my first still I'm going to put the mode dial here into P mode that's program mode just like Auto mode basically where the camera just makes up its own settings and taking picture is pretty easy half press the shutter well first I'll put this style here into auto focus AFS this should be what you're using most of the time this changes your different focusing modes I'll put that in two FS push the shutter halfway and it snaps into focus it beeps I'll show you how to turn that off and then I'll push the shutter all the way down and it keeps taking pictures depending on your mode we'll talk about the different shutter modes in just a second while you're reviewing this you can change the information that's viewed on the screen so right now there's a showing moment exposure compensation and a bunch of different settings up here hit the disp button which is kind of recessed into the grip hit that a couple of times and you can switch between different viewing modes so this one allows you to focus on the composition of the scene this one actually shows you the virtual horizon so you can see just how far off tilt you are especially important with video where it's a little you're losing a lot of resolution if you crop in video so I really like to use this if I'm on a tripod push it again and the extra information will go away with the virtual horizon is still there and push it again and now you can just see your settings big and bold and actually go in and change them so that's kind of what's nice about this is this is giving you a really quick way to go in and just adjust different settings with the touch screen so you can hit it again and it will blank out and allow you to use just the viewfinder here this is great if you're shooting in a dark environment and you don't want to disturb anybody hit this until that back screen goes black and now you're not casting off a bunch of extra light and once again hit it and it will take you back to the beginning of the whole view finder process you can also manually switch between the back screen and the viewfinder here by pushing this button to the left of the viewfinder you might want to do this if it gets if it's picking up your camera strap if it's constantly switching back and forth that can be kind of annoying you can just switch it manually the touch screen here works really well by default you can just touch and it will focus on different parts of the screen for you that's great because this articulating screen flips out and sometimes you'll be like holding it up over a crowd and that means you can just focus here and it will keep stuff in focus for you if you'd rather have it actually take pictures for you so this little panel over here on the left this pops out so if I push that it kind of slides up from the side and now this gives me the choice between touch to auto expose or touched to actually shutter touch shutter so now that I've selected that I can touch the screen and it will take pictures so nice so again over the crowd now I can easily shoot over the crowd and touch to take photos and that's usually what I'll have it on for the purpose of still photos I just want to show you the depth of field preview depth of field preview shows you just how much is going to be in focus in the shot so let me get this focused on the screen here and as I do that you can see the background is just completely blurry right there stuff back there but it's just super out of focus let me just raise my I'm going to put the camera into aperture priority mode so I can control the aperture and I set the aperture to really high value f-22 and so now you can see the screens in focus but the background is out of focus it's in its normal mode it's behaving like an SLR would it's not showing you the depth of field that you would get at f-22 is showing you the lowest possible value for that particular lens that lets a gather the most light that lets it focus the fastest but it doesn't give you a realistic expectation for what you're going to see if you want to see the depth of field you're actually going to get you hit the depth of field preview button which is right here to the right of the lens close to the grip so as I push that down you can see I'm pushing it to toggle it between different modes so that's what it off if I push it once you can see now it's saying aperture effect on and now suddenly this is so unfocused in the foreground but the background here is much more in focus I push it again a couple more it will turn off okay just want to show you where the depth of field preview works if you shoot stills it's really nice to have that because if you ever use it on DSLR everything gets really really dark let me go back to my standard settings you can record video at any time by hitting the big red record button up here that's nice if you're a hybrid shooter you're shooting stills in one of those stills modes and you just want to grab a quick clip of whatever you've composed it will just start recording for you most of the time if we're using this for video though I'll change the mode over to the creative movie mode here because it has an old-timey video camera and with that set you can now record using the big shutter button here I always do that I don't think I've ever hit this button because it's such it's just it's like hard to reach and I don't like the placement of it but using the shutter button basically solves that problem for you if you're recording video outside I want to suggest this gadget it's only 20 bucks it's just a little screen that will velcro over this screen here and allow you to see it even in bright environments the other option of course is just to use put your eye to the eyepiece that works fine and doesn't require you to care everything else anything else but having it over this is really helpful because you can flip it out to the side it might be low to the ground or high up and you can kind of tilt it and just look better it's just one of those things that we have found helps us out so now we've found a photo let's talk about how to review it to flip the screen back around the reviewing photos button is this green play button up here I'll push that and it will bring up the last photo or video that I took that's a lousy photo but here we go now with the touch screen I can zoom in like this to just make sure that eyes are in focus that type thing and then pan around with my fingers that works really well I can flip between pictures using the touch screen like that too or I can use the front dial here to flip between them quickly without having to worry about the touch screen the back down here zooms in case you just want to zoom right into the middle of the picture or if I roll backwards it will show me thumbnails that's a quick way to find the kind of specific picture that you're looking for now showing me a calendar so I can flip back to a specific day but usually I'm just using these thumbnails here while you're reviewing a picture you can hit the disc button to change the information that it's showing about the picture so as I hit it here it's showing me a bunch of information about the settings the camera settings in the particular mode that it was in I can push it again and it will hide more of the information and a quick shortcut if I push this button over here on the left it will prompt me to upload the picture by Wi-Fi I'm going to cover Wi-Fi later I just wanted to point out where that was you can file it away it's kind of useful one trick you should know is deleting pictures this FN 4 button doubles as the delete button so if there's a picture that stops like that one I can push that and it will prompt me to delete a single picture many or all of the pictures so I'll delete single and it's like yes I know I've read about the electronic viewfinders before but you can also review your pictures in the viewfinder so if it's dark again hold it up to your eye and review pictures that way dark or bright where you might not be able to see the screen I like to be able to rate pictures if you import your pictures into Lightroom it's really nice when you're in the field and you take a picture that you like you can rate it 5 stars and then you import your pictures and you'll be able to sort your pictures by the number of stars and instantly find that picture that you were excited about in the field if you're reviewing a picture and you want the rate of 5 stars do this hit that menu button go down to the playback menu over here and then go down to rating select that it's like single and now you can it hit the set button and now you can scroll over to the number of stars that you want to rate a particular picture when you're in rating mode you can go through and just rate multiple pictures which are a little easier to get here from the review pane but that's how you do it you can also review video which I highly recommend when you're in the field if just captured an important video double check it make sure that it looks and sounds good so we recorded a little clip earlier let's scroll back a little bit okay here I am from the last video that we shot with this video selected I can just hit the play button here in the center and it will actually play through the speakers you can adjust the volume here because we're getting ready I'm going to hold this button down to fast-forward some notice that we're using the touchscreen a lot I use a pair of five-dollar touchscreen gloves when it's cold out and that allows me to interact with the screen FDP that latter flash touch will take you to Amazon where we have them if you're thinking about shooting video you have a lot of choices on this camera you can shoot 1080p at a variety different frame rates you can shoot 4k which is much more detailed than 1080p and you can even shoot at 4k 60p I've covered I have whole videos dedicated to whether the benefits of shooting in 4k visit SDP dot io / y 4k for our YouTube video about that or if you're interested in the benefits of shooting 30 or 60 P visit STP io / y 60 and I'll talk about the benefits and drawbacks of shooting at 60 frames a second let's talk about using aperture priority here on the mode dial if you're shooting stills you'll flip the mode dial over to a and this gives you complete control over the f-stop by using the back down here so now you can see I will adjust the f-stop using the back dial this is the F value here and in showing the possible values on that scale and the camera is going to adjust the shutter speed and the ISO probably to give me the proper exposure if you aren't familiar with f-stop or if you just want to know everything about aperture and f-stop there's a lot to know there's an SDP dot io / f-stop for a free video this is basically what's happening inside your lens as you're changing the f-stop that opening with low f-stop values is really big and with high f-stop values it's really small for small openings let in less light which means your image will either get darker or you'll have to use a slower shutter speed or higher ISO to offset that and get a properly bright image the other major side effect of aperture is changing the amount of background blur this is just a set of three example shots at f-18 with an 85 millimeter full-frame camera you can see the backgrounds very blurred isolating the subject at f-22 it shows the background adding in a bunch of context this is your creative choice whether you're shooting stills or video how much you want to isolate the subject from the background if you're shooting video though you probably don't want to be using a super low f-stop number with a lot of background blur unless you're very carefully controlling the situation because if you're filming somebody and I for example move forward a little bit I'm going to suddenly be out of focus and the shot will be ruined if you watch big movies and such with professional actors and they will shoot with Shalit up the field but you'll see the actor very carefully always stays within the focal plane that's a skill that actors have if you're shooting documentary or vlogging or stuff your characters might not have that same level of skill therefore it's probably easier for you just use a higher f-stop number let's talk about controlling the shutter speed actually before we move on the a here in the mode dial is for shooting aperture priority for stills if you want to shoot aperture priority for video it's different story it's one of my biggest complaints with the user interface of the jh5 is how this works for video you'll still switch to the movie mode here now in the back screen see how it has a little camera and a p icon there I'll touch that and then I'll switch the exposure mode to a aperture priority and now I can control the f-stop with the backpal weird right I wish they gave me the option to make the pas and M modes just relate to video because those are the ones I'm really only use this camera for video mostly for video if you are interested in how to properly set the shutter value for stills for capturing action or showing motion visit SDIO slash shutter but basically a slow shutter speed like 1/8 of a second will show a lot of motion which conveys a lot of the action and the same high shutter speed freezes motion giving you sharper pictures but at the same time maybe telling a very different story so you as a stills photographer or filmmaker control the shutter speed to tell that story differently in shutter speed and video higher shutter speeds do indeed give you sharper images but they can also give you a very jerky image that seems like this so there's this old kind of rule about what we call a 180 shutter 180 degree shadow that comes from the film days where your shutter speed should be twice what your current frame rate is so for shooting at 24 frames and your shutter speed will be 150th you're shooting at 30 frames a second to be one sixtieth and if you're shooting at 60 frames a second it would be at one one twentieth of a second you don't have to comply with that people rarely follow that rule and nobody ever complains because we would know because people complain on YouTube make videos all the time we often don't follow that rule totes it's not a huge deal but I did kind of want to cover what that priority is if you want to control the shutter speed for stills just put the mode dial here to s if you want to control it for video you're going to go back to the video mode here and then touch that indicator appear and then touch s for shutter speed and now you'll control the shutter speed with the back valve switch between aperture and shutter priority mode changes the personality of this back dial it changes what it actually does if you're out shooting and you're trying to use a wide open aperture and you find you can't get your shutter speed to the right value add yourself an ND filter we use a graduated ND filter that matches the front element of the lens to allow us to adjust the different brightness conditions when we do care about the shutter speed which is sometimes manual mode allows you to control both the aperture and the shutter speed and optionally the ISO but you can go into manual mode control those two values and still let the camera adjust the auto exposure by changing the ISO for detailed information about how to select the proper values for manual mode visit this video here SDP dot io / go manual if you shouldn't still do this camera we'll take the mode dial and put it over to M now the back down here changes the shutter speed just like it did and shutter priority mode the front dial here will change the aperture so you can dial both these with your forefinger and your thumb and pick your perfect settings for whatever the situation is and for video this is a really common approach to getting the image you want your are shooting video you'll take the mode off here of course put it back on the video mode then touch this link in the upper left corner select M and it behaves exactly the same way now we're changing the aperture and the shutter speed one note I'm in 60 frames per second mode right now did me to do that it will let me go with a slower shutter speed and two grams a second has letting me go all the way down to 30 frames per second but you don't want to do that you want to keep the shutter speed at your frame rate or higher or we'll start doubling out frames and give you dirtier video you know I mean you're not benefiting from all the smoothness of it if you're shooting stills and you want to take eight and a long exposure you might want to use bulb mode and I'll show you what bulb mode is now to use broad mode put the camera into manual mode now I can move the back down here to select a really long shutter speed if I keep scrolling to the left to the left to the left I can go all the way to 60 seconds here so that would be a one-minute exposure which you would only do if you are in near darkness in a rural environment away from any sort of city lights but you might do long so as you like that to get pictures of the stars you could certainly do that with this camera if I scroll one more left I'm going to get into bulb mode and bulb mode will keep the shutter open for as long as I want basically but the trick is that I have to hold my finger down on the shutter so as I hold my finger down on the shutter you can hear the shutter closed and if I keep my finger on there for ten minutes I will take a ten minute exposure but you probably don't want to do that because you take the camera around and what not a better option is to connect an external remote shutter trigger there's this little flap here on the right side if you pull it open you see a little port there and you can pick yourself up gh five remote don't get a name-brand one get one of the off-brand ones and plug it in there and then lock the shutter open for as long as you need I'm not going to go into a whole lot of detail about they don't imagine a lot of gage five users doing those types of long exposures if you happen to get caught without a remote shutter trigger or if you don't feel like buying one I have some tricks in this video that will allow you to get long exposures by stacking them and software so visit sdp io / filter for those tricks hey I'm going to take a second and plug my stuff if you want to learn the basics of camera settings photography and video give my book stunning digital photography the e-book is only ten bucks it includes 14 hours of high quality video so you can read it you can watch the online videos and it's going to teach you a lot about composition and lighting not just aperture and shutter speed and all that of course I cover all those basic technical details but also the creative and artistic side of it and that's the part that really matters more because right now I'm teaching you the buttons and dials of your camera but that's like just showing somebody where the steering wheel and the gas is on a car and then expecting them to drive now there's more to it than that being a little savvy right you get into post-processing I have books on Adobe Lightroom the most popular app for organizing your pictures and doing light editing or for heavy editing Adobe Photoshop we have books wood for both with tons of video in each they're the best reviewed books out there and of course my photography buying guide for all your gear questions things like what focus breathing means and what parfocal lenses are the types of things you might be curious about if you're into stills or video it can this book can save you thousands of dollars by helping you choose the right gear the first time helping you select used gear deciding whether or not you want to buy gray market gear and what not um don't take my word for it go to Amazon and look at the reviews that people have written about them people love those books you can go to SDP @ io slash store and buy it from us directly or just go to Amazon and and search for Tony North of e-books or ten bucks the paperback books are more you know paper let's talk about how to change your ISO if you want to know what ISO is is it s dpi o / iso in a nutshell is your camera sensitivity to adjust the ISO on this camera you will hit the ISO button on the top pretty easy right I'll push that and then I can just move the back dial here to adjust my ISO all the way up or down you can see the max ISO is twenty five thousand six hundred for stills and the minimum ISO is two hundred almost all the time I'm just in auto ISO mode especially for stills I just select auto ISO and then I adjust the exposure compensation as needed if you switch to video mode your ISO is limited to twelve thousand eight hundred if that's not high enough I suggest getting a faster lens I'll talk about lenses at the end of this video but that's getting a faster lens with the lower SF number like an f-14 lens is usually going to be the solution to shooting in low-light however I've also just shot at ISO 12800 video and let it be underexposed if it was just too dark - - where I just needed to go higher let it be underexposed and then in your photo edit your video editing app like Premiere raise the exposure stop and you will get okay image quality it in other words you can push the exposure or stop for the video if you really need to but again faster lenses are usually going to be the better option let's talk about how to enable an extended ISO because this camera will let you shoot at ISO 100 and this is the setting I would recommend everybody change so hit the menu button go up to you see wrench custom settings go to exposure and then the second option down here is extended ISO turn that on and now what that means for me is when I go in and change the ISO my upper limit is still the same but my lower limit goes all the way down to 100 and this can cause RAW files to lose one stop of potential exposure recovery and if you don't know what all that means then it doesn't matter just turn it on use ISO 100 whenever you want the best image quality and you should be happy about it if you search my youtube channel for extended ISO you'll see I've made a whole video about this and really thought it out but it works pretty well let's talk about exposure compensation you've been adjusting your aperture shutter speed and ISO to kind of change different exposure values but sometimes your image is simply going to be too bright or too dark exposure compensation adjust for that so if I point this at the screen here you can see my screen is white but as we look at it it looks kind of dark well I'm in manual mode now - you use exposure compensation you do have to have auto ISO on or be in one of the auto exposure modes so let's just go into program mode to make life easy and I'll change the ISO back to auto ISO which it probably should have been okay so as we look at the screen now I can see it's it's a white screen but it just looks kind of gray to fix that I'm going to hit the exposure compensation button the little plus or minus here press that and now I can just move this back dial until it's nice and bright so this yeah there we go I want to kind of expose for the highlights not blow stuff out too much so that ended up taking two stops of exposure compensation we can see now it looks quite a bit better agreement to make sure you nail the exposure is to turn on the histogram which is hidden by default so turn it on you'll hit the menu button here you're going to go down to the custom settings here with the wrench that one and then go to monitor display so I'll select that and then on page four out of six so many options I'll scroll down to histogram and I'm going to turn that on so now you can see it's letting me kind of put the histogram wherever I want it I can just drag it around like let's just stick it on the bottom corner down here and what that's doing is over to the right where the image is bright those bars go up and then where the end is is dark the bars go up on the left side so the dark is on the left the bright is on the right as I move it around the picture becomes brighter you can see the little histogram there moves towards the right if I go towards where the image is darker you can see moves to the left and what this allows me to know is whether or not I'm over exposing the image so if I'm going to be adjusting the exposure compensation I really should be using that histogram see how adjusting the exposure compensation moves that histogram around this by looking at the histogram here I can see it's crammed against the right side I know I'm blowing the image out those highlights are going to be lost and it's especially important in the video but if I roll it down to the left I can see well now there's a little bit of room on the right I'm not blowing anything out I should be able to recover everything and I'm all clear another way to turn to check to make sure you're not blowing out the exposure is to go back to the same settings here and scroll down to zebra pattern so we'll select that and we'll do set and now you can see they give you the option of zebra one and zebra two zebra one will mark the screen with lions when it's at 80% brightness and zebra two a market at a hundred percent one is definitely overexposed I prefer you can change those too I pretty much just always use zebra two because I only want to know if I'm absolutely blowing part of it out so you can see it's telling you that this part of the screen is being blown out therefore I'd want to go in and adjust that exposure compensation down until okay there we go now we're in the clear nothing is lost for detailed information while using exposure compensation because it s DP io / EC bracketing is a technique old school film photographers use to use to make sure that at least one exposure was the right exposure because you didn't get to see your exposure on the back of the camera there was no histogram so if you wanted to make sure you nailed it you took multiple pictures of different exposures using three pictures and then you'd throw two of them out you would just when you got back to the darkroom you would just pick the one that was the right exposure if you want to use bracketing it's still a common technique for HDR photography I have a whole chapter on HDR photography and stunning digital photography if you want to understand that to configure bracketing on this camera what you'll do is you'll hit the exposure compensation button that we were just working with you'll hit that and then in the upper left corner here you can touch the screen here and select the type of bracketing you want to do so this is showing you different exposures and for me I'm usually at five and one this is going to take five separate shots with one stop of exposure between them so if you took the first and the last exposure there would actually be four stops apart you can go all the way up to seven shots with one stop of exposure but let's do this five shots at once off of exposure each I'll select that and then I'm just going to take five pictures having to it fast right at the play button here and as I scroll back to the first one you can see this is the camera's auto exposure the second one is a stop darker second one is it's not brighter and then two stops darker and then two stops brighter you could later just pick the right exposure or you could stack them with HDR software software chapter and SDP I don't often use flash of this camera because I just prefer natural light but if you do want to use flash it has a flash hotshoe so you could put in a micro four-thirds flash in there and get all sorts of control over it you can use remote shutter systems and remote flash systems and stuff like that now let's talk about the different shutter modes when you get your camera it's probably in single shutter mode which is this single box here that means one picture if I push the shutter button down it takes one picture even if I hold the finger down it's only gonna take one picture that's okay but almost everything benefits from taking a couple of pictures because sometimes even if the entire scene is still when you push that shutter button down you twist the camera a little bit then I can just add a little bit of shake to it so I will often take two or three pictures at least especially if it's a moving subject even a portrait people have little micro expressions or they might be a little uncomfortable and then they'll be okay or they might blink if you were to snap off three pictures you could just pick the best one it doesn't cost you anything right so I'll switch the continuous mode here I'll just flip the style over to the stack of boxes and now when I hold the shutter button down it's going to take a whole bunch of pictures real fast right if that's too fast for you you can slow it down here's how you do that hit the Q menu button here FN to hit that and then at the top here you'll see you can scroll through a bunch of different options I want to scroll over to this stack of copies where it says H and now I can put it in medium or low you also notice in description at high speed mode it says without live view that means if you're shooting in high-speed mode you're seeing the last image you took which is going to be a little bit delayed that's fine if it's mostly still pictures but if you're shooting sports that means that what you see is lagging behind the real world and so if you're tracking a moving subject you will eventually be behind you will start to lose that subject will move out of the frame and you won't realize it until after they've left because you're slightly behind in time it's like this weird time shifting thing starts happening and messes with your brain you can fix that by dropping down to medium speed which is almost as fast so now that it's in medium speed she's shooting a little bit slower but the view I'm getting is more real time and it's it's still flashing like that it behaves like a DSLR would so for a lot of things you want to be shooting at medium speed if nothing else to slow down the number of pictures that you're taking this camera also has an interval timer built into it first let's talk about the delayed shutter the delayed shutter is super useful because if you're taking say a macro shot where you want everything to be sharp again pushing that shutter button can shake the camera you might also use a delayed shutter when you want to take a selfie you'll put the camera on a tripod then you run put your arm around your family and it will take the picture after you've already moved so the shutter valve here has that option we'll just move it over to the clock icon and now when I go to take a picture you can see it's counting down ten seconds it's not actually counting down but it is blinking up here it assumes you're not behind the camera oh it's getting more intense there we go and let's see what did we take well there's a very poorly lit now to focus Justin because I didn't do a very good job of taking the picture but that's the shutter timer if ten seconds is too long if you want to change that you'll hit the Q menu button here FN to scroll over to the last icon here now you can see it says ten seconds and you have a couple of different options the default is 10 you could do 10 seconds with three pictures that's even better for your family selfie because you know the person's going to be ruined by somebody doing this or blinking or sticking their tongue out if you shoot three pictures you might catch those little bastards by surprise and get them with a normal face if you select the last option here - the two second shutter delay which is good just two seconds it's good for when you have the camera on a tripod and you want to eliminate any shake from pushing the shutter button the interval timer is useful for taking time lapses you can take a whole ton of stills on a regular basis and then drop them into your photo your video editing app and make a proper time outside of it's such a common technique now I see it used all the time and TV and movies and get pro time lapse results with this just use this last option on a dial here that's the interval timer and now you can see it brings up a little display because the start time now shooting interval one minute image count one to adjust that I'm going to hit this little icon on the screen here and now I'm in the time-lapse animation mode so I can shoot choose a time-lapse shot or stop-motion animation with stop-motion animation you trigger it so you basically would be moving a puppet and then trigger to take the next picture I move a puppet but time lapse is the more common one where it just fires automatically on a regular interval to make a time lapse video start time now it's usually what you're going to do I will change the start time if I'm in a hotel with a view I'm taking a time lapse I promise you and sometimes I want to see the sunrise but I don't want to get up before the sunrise so I'll set the camera up and trigger it to go off at 4:30 or whenever before the Sun rises I'll use a app called I think it's called Sun seeker that will on my phone that will tell me in augmented reality exactly where the Sun is going to rise so I'll line everything up based on that trigger to start automatically and then I can just keep sleeping and when I wake up I have a beautiful time lapse unless something got messed up which happens sometimes the next option down here allows you to configure this shooting interval and the interval the image counted so I'll just that one minute is usually too much but you know four seconds one second and then the image count for them for the most part I I'll just select the maximum value here let's just say 9,000 because you can always interrupt it and if you have too many time-lapse pictures that's never a problem I can't tell you how many times I've made a time-lapse and then go to render it and realize I didn't take enough pictures especially if you're shooting in 60 frames a second remember you will need 60 still pictures to fill one minute of video I always try to make my time lapses at least 12 seconds that you know on screen a good like 6 to 8 to 10 seconds is good if you're using a time-lapse as an establishing shot or some pyrrole or something but you want to give yourself a little leeway at the beginning and end for maybe doing a cross dissolve or something so to figure out how many shots you need that you'll take maybe it's 10 seconds at 60 frames per second that means you need 600 shots if you're going to be shooting for 10 minutes then you'll need to divide 10 minutes which is 600 seconds by 600 shots which means a 10 minute time lapse would have you shooting at one-second intervals and then you would be able to stitch that together to create a 10-second time-lapse see how that works so I actually wish you could set the interval to be a fraction of a second because I'd like it to be nice and silky smooth but again having too many pictures is not going to be a problem so feel free to if you're not sure just use one second and nine thousand pictures and cut it off or early if you just can't stand to hang out anymore let's talk about the different focusing modes because by default the way this camera works is I need to take it off time lapse on get back into the continuous shooting by default it will find focus and then stop saying as soon as it locks on focus so if I recompose up here you can see it's not refocusing this will let you do a technique called focus recompose where if you want to focus on an off off-center part of the image you can just lock focus in by holding the shutter halfway and then move the frame that's not really necessary because you can focus right to the corners so there's no don't do focus recompose just set your focusing point where you needed to af-s which is the single focusing that we're experiencing where it stops tracking focus even if you move the camera or the subject moves that's the most accurate type of focusing on this camera and it's what we use most of the time if you're shooting a moving subject flying bird sports car driving towards you you want to use a fc you can configure the focusing mode really conveniently I love the style it's this big rotary dial here I'll flip that from af-s to AFC and now as I hold the shutter button down you can see I get closer here and it's going to keep that in focus up until I hit the minimum focusing distance so now it's tracking moving subjects it does it pretty well that's pretty good job of that the next option here is MF which stands for manual focus so you can see as I turn that it popped up a little magnifier to help me nail the focus BAM manual focus so coming from an SLR world you might be used to finding the manual focus auto focus switch on the lens it's really nice that it's built right into the body here the detailed information about different focusing modes does it sdp that io / focus that's just a free video from us those focusing modes have no relationship to the focusing modes during video those are for stills hit this about this camera I wish they would just let me make it a video only camera so you can put this into a SC in your video or AFS and it's not gonna make any difference this file isn't useful to you if you're shooting video to configure the video focusing mode so I'll put the camera into video mode here and now I need to hit the menu button and I'm going to go over to the manual movie thing M movie and let's just scroll down some I'm going to go over to the second icon down a little movie icon here and I'm going to go down to continuous AF right now it's on I'm going to turn it off you are almost always going to want to have continuous AF off when you're shooting video because until there's a firmware update or something I don't consider to be that reliable it will you'll be filming us completely still subject and then suddenly will latch on to something in the back of the frame it's always focusing on something but it will often grab on to focus on something in the back of the frame if you're doing unboxing videos or something where you're holding something close to the camera and you want it to snap into focus that's the right option for you in our review of this camera I gave an overview of how to use the different focusing modes to the best effect so rather than repeat myself here I'm going to send you to watch that review go to SCP that iOS /gh 5 review and you'll see me give you tips on how to nail focus with vlogging I use the Wi-Fi app when I'm too far away because if that's whenever possible and then I resort to the AFC with a single small autofocus point when I absolutely need it to track moving subjects I serve how to change the focusing points by default when you're shooting it's you can see it's going to focus anywhere and that's dumb that's really dumb you really want to let the camera like look at the whole frame and decide oh I think I'll focus here now you want to pick a single focus point and tell it where to focus if you're not manually focusing it's pretty easy to switch so the way you'll switch that is you hit the Quick Menu button here fn2 and then go over to the focusing point thing here and here you can select from different types of focusing points so if I go over to the left I can turn on face and eye detection it will automatically focus on an eye or if it doesn't find an eye it will allow you to move the focusing point around but here's what I use most of the time is the pinpoint this gives you a very small focusing point that's really important for focusing on say somebody's eye okay it's having a hard time it's having a hard time because pinpoint AF is also the slowest type of autofocus so three it's highly accurate and it's very precise but it's the slowest because the camera isn't looking at a big part of the frame and allowing himself to focus anywhere in there so use that when you have to and again that's what I use most of the time when I really want to nail the focus but there are other options available the one area is a much bigger option but you can see the box there itself is pretty big and that's big enough that they camera might focus on somebody's forehead rather than their eye then that would just totally run a portrait so in those cases you'd want to switch back to the pinpoint focusing I didn't really demonstrate it but this thumbstick here allows you to move the focusing point around you can also just drag it around like that while it's there I can use the back down here to control the size of the focusing point making it bigger and faster or smaller and more precise so often I'll make it as small as I need to I'm just tracking somebody's face I'll make it as big as the face otherwise it's going to be a little bit smaller if I need to be more precise there's another focusing mode to be aware of and that is the tracking mode what this will do is you select that let's track that P sounds dirty I'll select it and then oh there we go look it's tracking the P so yeah it's like following it around and that will allow the subject to move throughout the frame and have me continuing to shoot it but use like a d500 doesn't work quite that well I just want to show you where it was if you change as any setting after you're done I would go back and change that setting back especially as you're experimenting or it's some specialized situation because what you don't want is to grab your camera later and urgently try to get a shot and find out your your bracketing turned on and the wrong focusing mode and stuff is just a pain let's go a little deeper into manual focus I showed you how to select it earlier by shifting this dial over to F and now I can use the ring on the lens to manually focus and you can see it's pulling in and out there are a lot of different options for manually focusing though and the first is to autofocus so as I manually focusing I can see this little AF button down here I can set that and it will auto focus it for me sometimes I know you want to be extreme and do everything manual but it's nice when the camera can just jump in there and help you get the shot another set of options allow provide different focusing assist modes so I hit the menu button here and I'll go into custom settings and then monitor display and when I select that there's a whole bunch of stuff that I can turn on to get to the right page one here is peaking you can see that I currently have it on because I use it all the time if you select it you can go down to set and choose how you want it to be configured peaking will find the parts of the frame that are the sharpest really those parts that are in focus and highlight it so you know when you found focus in that area and it's not precise it should not be relied on for precise focusing but it's a good way to get roughly in the area the magnification is a much more precise way so you can select different focus peaking colors and what you want is a color that contrasts with your situation so if your client is wearing a yellow shirt you wouldn't want to choose the yellow display color you'd want to choose blue or something that I was obviously contrasting so to see how the focus peaking works let's zoom in there and then I will get that area kind of in focus or is it now there we go so you can see that you there is I get it sharp and focused see how it has that green line around it and as I move the camera in and out you can kind of see that green line follow the focal plane that's a focus peaking death it's useful you can also configure the MF assist which is that magnification window that pops up so under the same group the auto focus settings here on page two you'll see MF assist and I always keep this set to this option which is the default that magnifies it down here you see the option for MF assist display and by default is picture and picture so it shows you a little window you want to take up the full screen you can go to full here and so now when i aughtta focus you can see it'll pop right in just automatically punches in and that's that's super useful for getting precise focus and then you can just have push the shutter to zoom back and see the full display one more setting if you find yourself auto focusing and then wanting to fine-tune it with manual focus go to that same group in the menu system and select AF + MF and just turn that on so now that's or not if I'm in autofocus modes and so now when I first have push the shutter will auto focus and then as long as I have the shutter push down I can manually focus by turning the ring so it's kind of providing you the best of both worlds now let's talk about the different metering modes metering is the logic that the camera uses to determine the proper exposure and you can just always leave it on the default and never worry about this I discussed this in Chapter chapter 3 of setting digital photography but if you do decide that you want to change it you just want to ignore Tony's advice you can't change your metering mode fine Who am I to stop you the easiest way to do that is to hit the Q menu here FM - and then go down to this option in the lower right lower left corner and here you can see I can choose three multi metering center-weighted metering and spot metering again just leave it on multi metering if you're going to change that is because you already know how to do it another option you don't necessarily need to change for stills especially if you're shooting raw but you might want to change for video is the white balance you I'm going to just nail the white balance that the color isn't looking a little too orange or a little too green to do that you can use the WB button on top of the camera push that and now you can select from whatever type of lighting you're in like this is incandescent light this is sunlight or you know on a white balance works pretty good if you want to fine-tune that you can hit adjust here and then just dial it in however you want to really make sure that it's perfect if you're working with lights that you know the color temperature of like maybe you're working with fifty three hundred Kelvin lights hit that white balance button and scroll over to these custom settings here and now you can see I get the option for white balance custom set now I can just dial it down to fifty three hundred or whatever it is and hit set and then everything should be nice and white you also have some options for custom settings here that you can easily recall so I can go to that and make my white balance off of a white card or a gray card so all I need to do is to fill the frame with that with whatever's white there and then hit set and bam it made sure that that part of the frame was white do that before you film and you will save yourself some post-processing right we have only scratched the surface on the complex video features of this camera so let's dive more into the specific video stuff like the different recording formats you can choose from all sorts of different codecs frame rates resolutions but I'll show you the one that I use for everything pretty much first make sure you're in the video mode here or camera in the M and I'll hit the menu button and I'll go up to the video camera here and you can see a couple of different related options recording format and recording quality and you're going to kind of use those in tandem now for the most part I will use mp4 and that's fine and before LPCM can be a little bit higher quality so we can select that if we want the absolute best quality and then under recording quality here you'll select your absolute you'll select your resolution and your frame rate so if we scroll up here the highest resolution frame rate is going to be 3 a 40 by 2160 at 59.94 basically 60 frames a second that's what we shoot almost everything in you'll notice a couple of different options here this is four to zero at 8-bit and 150 megabits a second that's a high frame rate which means you will see almost no compression artifacts is a super clean high-quality video if you scroll down a couple of options you can drop the compression to a hundred megabits per second and that means your file sizes will be a little bit smaller your quality will be almost the same but your life will be a little bit easier because you won't be burned through storage quite as fast it's something to consider also note that it says here VFR available which means you can do things like adjust the frame rate to something slower however this drops you down to 30 frames a second so we're no longer at 60 frames a second VFR is not available at 60 frames a second it's only available at 30 frames a second so for me I'm up here at the 60 frames a second and I'm happy with it if you scroll up from there you can see a couple of options at proper 4k like cinema 4k which is a wider format it's 4096 by 2160 the highest you can go here though is 24 frames a second now you have two options for the cinema 4k 4096 you have 100 megabit and 8-bit 4 to 0 or you have the 10 bit and 150 megabits a second the 10 bit adds more color information to the video and will might require a little bit of extra processing at the moment premiere is struggling with the 10 bit gh 5 files a little bit and in our testing we have yet to perceive any difference between the 8 bit and attempt it videos we've just been shooting 8 bit I've seen other people testing these things and really trying to push it and try to see some benefit to the 10 bid and then of us have really seen any benefit to the tendon so if I were you I just wouldn't sweat it but if you have a boss who's telling you you need to shoot 10 bit if you're shooting for consistency with other cameras want 10 bit there it is know what that means don't sweat it just shoot 3840 2160 60p and don't worry about the 8 bit or 10 bit if you do want 10 bit note that if you scroll down a little bit you do have the option of shooting at 4 to 2 and 10 bit at 3840 by 2160 at 30 frames a second so if you're on a 30 frames per second format or you're shooting 24 frames a second you have the option of jumping up to 10 bit and getting that extra just color resolution the little better quality I'm not going to get into which is actually better let's talk about the e stabilization this camera actually has three forms of statehood section there's optical stabilization in those lenses that are power oh is or any like adaptive can lenses I have image stabilization the lens will move physical elements around to stabilize stuff then you have sensor stabilization well the sensor will actually move around taking still photos or video to offset things like the twist of the camera those who worked in tandem if you have Panasonic lenses if you use other lenses they will not work in tandem most Panasonic lenses not all of them but if you put a Canon lens on there for the Olympus ons on there the it will be one or the other it'll use these sensors the lens stabilization if it has it otherwise it will fall back to the sensor stabilization the third form of stabilization is e stabilization which is available when shooting video only not available for stills what that does is it will pull from different pixels on the sensor to keep your image stabilized so moving like this around the edges of the frame and of course it's if the sensor is here and the image that is pulling us here it needs a little bit of room around the edges right so it will have to when you turn on you stabilization it will crop the image in a little bit to allow it to freely move around the frame some I find a stabilization in its current form to be good for handheld static shots if I'm like this and I want the to want to be like a human tripod it will make a difference it will help if I'm walking and I turn on you stabilization it looks weird just saw like so I don't do that but I'm often turning you stabilization on and off to change it you'll hit the menu button here you go over to the little movie icon here and then scroll down some go to stabilizer and then you stabilization video and you can turn it on again great for static shots moving shots then you decide but me personally I don't like it I will talk in a little bit about how to set custom modes you can see I have c1 to c2 and c3 here I on my own personal camera I've set c1 to be e stabilization off and a wide format full frame and then C to Z stabilization on and a cropped in a little bit to give me a little bit of extra reach so that way I don't have to go into the menus I'll just switch between them but just hold out look at that in a bit I'm anxious about this the virtual teleconverter will give you a little bit of crop whether or not you use the e stabilization I'll hit the menu button here under the movie icon you'll see on page 3x tell telecoms that's the teleconverter so to practice I'll turn the teleconverter off and then let's zoom in on now the whole frame is filled with the word teleconverter now I'll turn that teleconverter on and bam you can see now it's cropped in pretty tight it's just such an awesome feature because sometimes you'll be at your lenses limit you'll be you know you this is by 14 to 140 my favorite all-round lens I'll be at 140 but you want to be like 180 I turned that teleconverter on bang I got that extra reach again I set it to c2 in my custom settings so if I want that extra reaches yeah great feature I love that you have a little bit of crop that sometimes that too let's talk about slow and fast motion so this is like slo-mo like roar or you could do fast like little time lapses built into it to turn that on you'll go into the menu system here you'll need to go up to the recording quality here and select a recording quality that has this the VF are available in video mode those other qualities won't allow you to set the VFR it's such a confusing interface so you just have to remember this so I'll set that now that set I go up to this top icon the manual movie mode and then the second option here is variable framerate this is such a confusing way to do slow-motion I'll go down to set and now I can select the actual frame rate so you can see I can drop it down to 2 frames a second which would be like fifteen hundred percent like I'd be moving really fast or I can slow it down I'm at the recording frame range is thirty frames per second now I could have it recorded 60 frames a second but tell the video processing software that is 30 frames a second and it would be at half speed so we'll do that and now when I record stuff it will come back at half speed that's useful but at the same time if you just record at 50 frames or 60 frames a second you can just slow it down in your video editing app to half speed and it would be exactly the same thing without having to mess with that so just keep that in mind if you want to go above 60 frames per second recording time you can do that too so I'll hit menu here we'll go back to the menu icon the movie icon and we'll change the recording mode to HD 1080 when we look for this VF are available that option and when I go back up here variable framerate that's a weird user interface choice and now I can go all the way to 180 frames a second so now you can see the slow fast effect is well the recording frame rate is 60 frames is that kind of slow fast effect is 33% so it's recording three times more frames than necessary so you could slow it down basically 300% or if you were publishing at 30 frames a second you could slow it down up to 6x that's super slow I tried to record somebody running and it was so slow like boring at 180 frames per second the video quality is bad this is bad it will look and if you want decent video quality drop it down to 120 frames a second if you're publishing at 30 that's still for time slow motion and everything will just look better so just keep in mind you can go to 180 but it's going to look bad see three up here I set that to slow motion variable framerate because it's such a pain to go back in and set it up and then have to go back so I have to because I didn't do that on this camera I have to go back and reset my video settings let's talk about V log which is Panasonic's variation of the logging video which captures which makes everything look like shades of grey and super washed out but it's actually capturing more detail in the shadows and more detail and highlights you probably don't want this we have it and we never use it it's kind of a pain to process it's kind of a pain to expose it makes it really easy to make a serious mistake that will mess up your video they don't recommend actually don't recommend most people use it but if you want a log format if you want to make sure you capture all those then you already want you can pick it up at Amazon the sdp io / vlog what the way the process works is you go to that link and they will send you a physical card that will physically mail you a card that has a code written on it and that little card will come with a set of instructions for how to get v-log installed on your camera because it doesn't come with it it's an option cost like 110 bucks or something like that that's baffling I know you're saying to me no no I will just buy the code online so I can get it instantly you can't do that I don't know why you have to have a physical card male 2 this was the problem because I had a shoot like the next day and I wanted to use it and I had to wait like a couple of days for them to ship it to me so if you want it right in advance and plan for that and also be aware that getting it installed on your camera is a real pain it comes with instructions I'm just going to leave that to you I do want to point out if you have the v-log installed you can follow these steps go to the menu go to the creative video mode and then scroll down to the log view assist which is here it's must be our other camera that has it turned on I'm going to turn on one of the two cameras and use that to read a lot file a lookup table file which will basically cancel out the V log in the display so you can see what the final product will look like but it will be sili recording in v log that will make sense to the people who care so if you don't know if that didn't make sense don't so ahead let's talk about how to pull focus one of the coolest effects you'll see in movie is movies is they'll be I don't know somebody in the foreground here and then somebody in the background will be like looking menacing menacingly or holding an axe and they'll just like pull focus from one to the other but getting that focus to pull smoothly is real hard like there are people who's in Hollywood whose job is focus puller and they're just a guy who's really good at turning that smoothly and landing it precisely the gs5 is awesome because it has this feature built-in where you can just like touch the screen and switch between different focusing points so let's let's do that now here I'm just going to move the stuff around and let's pull out or trust the Olympus here and we'll have it as the menacing person in the background to use focus pulling I'm going to go into the menu mode I'm in video mode by the way I'm going to go to create a video option here and then on the last page is focused transition you'll select that and then what you want to do is go into focus pull setting and you're going to set the positions that you're going to focus on so I'll start with position 1 and let's just compose this a little bit okay so there we have a lens in the foreground a camera in the background we're going to pull focus between them so now I'm going to men focus on this guy in the foreground there we go nailed that focus exit set now go to position two and I'm going to focus on that guy in the background where is it over here okay good now the focus you can see the focus peaking it's opening out there and then set and you could set a third position too you can switch between three of them and then I'll hit start and so now you know I could be recording video and now and go position one position to position one position two and it's pulling focus nice and smoothly between the two subjects pretty cool right keep that in your bag because that's a real easy and cheap way to up your production values make your videos look great let's talk about sound goat sounds important you're going to want to use an external mic I'll suggest a couple of mics at the end including the mic that I'm using now you will want to when you're in video mode make sure that you have the mic levels shown and they might not be by default so hit the menu button here go down to the camera icon the video camera icon and then scroll over to mic level display and turn that on right below it you'll see mic level adjust where if the levels are coming in too loud or too quiet you can crank it up or you can crank it down to be a little bit quieter if you can adjust this from your mic you should gesture from your mic to first and then only do that if that still doesn't work now I can see my levels over here should also be using headphones but it helps to make sure that you're not peeking just have it there let's talk about how to adapt lenses we adapt Canon lenses all the time using our meta bone speed booster and if you used a meta bond speed booster with like autofocus and image stabilization control you don't have to do anything you can just put your meta bone speed booster on and put your Canon lens on and it works great we'll talk about that in a little bit too but if you're using a like a Nikon lens or some sort of manual focus lens like an old lens where it doesn't support those electronic communications and you want to take advantage of that sensor stabilization because yeah you can have a 50 millimeter prime from 1950 and have it stabilized with this camera it's awesome I'll show you how to do that you have to set tell the camera the focal length of it so to do that to set that you'll hit the menu button you'll go to the video camera icon and then go down to page three or four and then stabilizer so we'll select that and then under each stabilization video I'll select that and turn on and then underneath that you'll see focal length set and right now I can't set it because it's talking to the lens you can't set it up good news is taken care of for you I'll take the lens off which is exactly the behavior that the camera would see if I had adapted an old lens so now when I go into the same setting I can see here focal length set I can actually go in and set the focal length to whatever the physical focal length is you do not have to factor in the crop factor of the sensor here if you attach a 50 millimeter full frame lens to it just put in 50 millimeters if you're using a speed booster you should factor that in like a meadow bone speed booster you would multiply that times the focal length if you're using a teleconverter you should also factor that in so if you have optics in there that are changing the focal length take that into account but don't worry about crop factor let's talk about a format a memory card just going to show you where this is once you fill up your card back everything up send it to the cloud somewhere and I'll just trust it on your computer and then you can go down to the menu the little wrench icon here and scroll down to format the very last option and it will give you a chance to format either of the card slots if you accidentally format a card or you have a card corrupted go to this link SDP dot io / photorec there's a free tool there you can put your card in your computer any type of type of computer really and it will it will scour that card for a little bits of data and try to recover your pictures for you do not pay for a photo recovery app because this free one is great I suggest shooting raw your still images if you don't know the differencing raw and JPEG GIF is an FTP dot io / raw the JPEG to turn on raw shooting I will put my camera into a photo mode like program mode and then I'll hit the menu icon I'll go to the wrench here I know I'll go up to the camera icon here I'll go to quality and then raw there we go now I'm shooting wrong you can see this is the option for raw plus JPEG at the same time you might have noticed that every time I focus it's like that is so annoying have you ever been a wedding photographer and you have everybody in the audience like peeping PBP I'm gonna show you how to turn off that beeping so push please do that it lights up green and stuff you can see what it's in focus you need audible confirmation of that hit the menu button go down to the ranch icon go down to beep and you'll see a beep volume here turn that off your camera has an electronic shutter which is generally quiet it doesn't have to make any sound you can turn that off from here to and thus make your camera just completely silent you'll still hear that that's because that's the mechanical shutter if you want to turn the electronic shutter on it's an option to go to the menu button here the camera icon shutter type and you'll see it says Emma that means mechanical you can set it down - shutter here that's electronic EFC is electronic front curtain shutter the benefit of mechanical shutter is it freezes motion better but it makes noise the electronic shutter doesn't freeze motion as well so you'll see a little bit of a rolling shutter effect or if the camera is panning something that's vertical will look till T therefore mechanical shutter gives you the best quality but the electronic shutter is good and it's what I use most of the time because I would rather be discreet so I pretty much always use this last option here and with that you can see I can now take pictures and it's taking pictures but it's just completely silent that's so nice to be able to take pictures without disturbing people let's talk about how to customize the different function buttons on the camera so many different custom function buttons and as you're shooting you'll find yourself going in and changing different settings more than others so you can customize those buttons to do whatever you want by default they all do something so you can push those buttons and kind of see what it is that they allow you to do like this button here adjust the white balance this button here the AF mode I didn't show you to use those function buttons because I know so many of you are going to change them anyway that's why I showed your other techniques but if you want to customize those and you should hit the menu button go to the custom settings option here the wrench to the C and then go to operation select that and on page three is FN button set so it select that and now you can select different function buttons for either record or playback mode so let's talk about record mode here now you can see all these different buttons that you can customize to your heart's content go for I don't know what you like I can tell you how to do it you can also customize the Quick Menu so the Quick Menu is what pops up when you hit this button here and it's a lot of these options like like I told you I rarely change the white balance on my stills camera to change the Quick Menu you'll have to note the menu button to go to that same menu which is custom wrench operation page 3 you'll see cue menu here select that and you can do custom with that turned on I will now go back out of the menu system and let the Q menu button again and now it gives me this option down here to allow me to drag stuff around and change it so what I'm going to do is I'm going to drag them from up here down here so BAM I just replace that one I never change out of four and three so I can just get rid of that one but I will sometimes shoot in raw or JPEG so what I'm doing is I'm pulling from the list of available options up here and dragging them down here so there's my teleconverter i'll turn that on and then i can exit back out of here so now that I've done that the options are customized and every time I go into the quick menu here you can see I can pick from those three options that I just chose I highly recommend doing that because those quick menu items most of them aren't very useful for me custom modes mentioned it a couple times but this custom mode dial up here has these options these awesome C 1 C 2 and C 3 options they will take all of your settings and apply them to some state that you've recorded in the past so if you want to be in shutter priority with a shutter speed of one five hundredths of a second you can set that to custom one if you want and the way you'll do that is get your camera set up exactly as you want it because it will remember everything and then you'll hit the menu button you go to the wrench icon here and you go to custom set in memory and you can see C 1 C 2 or then three different see three options so I'll set that to see one I'll overwrite the current settings and so I just recorded it with a shutter priority with one five hundredth of a second so let's just change that shutter speed to something else and you can see it gets switched in different modes soon as I go back to C one BAM shutter priority one five hundredth of a second that's so useful so for me C one is 4k 60p full frame no teleconverter no e stabilizer C two is 4k 60p would be X to the teleconverter the digital teleconverter with the stabilizer and then C three is different varieties of slow motion like 120 frames a second 180 frames a second I'll just show you how to do those different see three options so let's get into a video mode here and I would adjust those settings and then I go to custom set memory so to say C 3-2 and it will overwrite those and now in the mode dial up here I'll switch it over to C 3 and I can see up here C I'll click that and this will give me the option to choose from C 1 C 2 or rather C 3 1 C 3 2 and C 3 3 I don't know why they decided to give you three options on C 3 but not C 1 or 2 another way you can customize your settings is to save your settings to a file and this should be really useful because you'd be able to save your settings to a file and then transfer it to a different camera for example we have 2 gh 5's and I randomly switch them.just and I will trade off at some point and if they're not synchronized and stuff becomes really confusing especially if you're using those custom settings so you'd want to to write those to the memory card and then transfer your memory card to the other one and then read them in so to do that what you can do is hit the menu go down to the wrench icon and then down at the bottom the bottom of page 3 you'll see saver store camera setting I'll select that and then I will save it to a new file I can name it something here by changing change the file name if you want to type on a really annoying keyboard and I'll click OK and it will save it now I could transfer that to slot 1 of another camera and read it in I'll say we did this and it did not work as we would have hoped the second camera received the settings but then regularly lost the settings so better luck if it works out better for you now I'll tell you how to use back button focus if you are familiar back button focus read chapter 3 of standing digital photography it's such a useful technique or visit sdp io / BB F I'm just going to show you how to actually turn it on go to the custom wrench icon and then focus release shutter I'll select that and then I'm going to scroll down to shutter AF on page one and select that so by default shutter AF is is on which means when you have press the shutter button it will auto focus I'm just going to turn that on and now now back one focus to turn on you'll always be able to use have this in auto focus mode and then push this back button here to focus that's your life that's your back button focus let's talk about Wi-Fi this camera can communicate wirelessly to your smartphone or tablet Android iPhone whatever the first step is to get the app installed on your phone we use Android 2 but I'm going to use the iPhone because it's actually harder Android provides a little more flexibility for app developers so some there are some steps that you'll just have be able to skip like it will connect to the it'll be able to connect to the network a little bit easier so search for the Panasonic image app there it is I've already installed it so I'll click open and you can see right away it's searching for a camera cameras not in Wi-Fi mode yet so what I'll do is I'll go into the camera here and I'll turn on Wi-Fi mode I'll go into the menus here go down to the wrench icon and it'll scroll down to Wi-Fi so I'm page one and I'll turn that on now it's firing up Wi-Fi function and Wi-Fi setup I'll select Wi-Fi function for now I'll create a new connection and you have the option to send them and distort on the camera to send images while you're recording so every time you click a camera the picture it'll send it over or to remote motely control your camera so for now let's talk about just transferring pictures we've taken over to a smart phone so I'm selecting these options I will almost always use the direct connection where this acts as a wireless access point so I'll select direct here and then I'll do a manual connection and now you can see it's created its own Wi-Fi network with this name gh five something and now I'm going to go onto my smart phone I'm going to go into the wireless settings here you want to do this every time if you're not currently connected to Wi-Fi and you've connected before it will automatically link up for you so now I've selected it okay so now I'm connected and it detected that and told me to switch back to the app so now you can see it's connecting my phone is asking me do you want to connect to this device yes just a security feature now on my camera here it's asking me what I want my settings to be so for example you can change the image size to original so instead of having it compressed down to a smaller JPEG can send the original file over for higher quality you would need to do that for things like Instagram but if you want to get the full size image for editing or something you can and then I'll select single select to select a single image there's a picture of Justin I will select that it will say it's going to take a full minute to send it because it lives and it's done look how quick that was and now on my smart phone it appears here and I can zoom it this is really great when you want to just quickly send a picture over if you do want to send RAW images through Wi-Fi you can do it it just requires an extra step that you have to use the raw convertor that's built into the camera convert it to a JPEG and then you can send it over so I'm going to take a quick raw picture of our camera Justin over here and now what I'm going to do is review the picture areas and you can see now I try to send it it says it can't be sent over Wi-Fi I don't know why the software can't just instantly convert it for me it just requires me to do it manually so I'll hit the menu button I'll go down to the playback menu down here and then at the bottom of the first page you'll see raw processing so I'll select that and I'm going to choose the file here by clicking set I can scroll through and pick the right one but I'll do that one set and now it brings me to this unusual menu where it's giving me different options for making adjustments to the image so you can adjust the hue and saturation and brightness and all that and I think that's all pretty straightforward you can change the white balance when you're ready you can select begin processing which converts it from raw to JPEG so let's save it it's a new picture there we go so now we're on our new picture and let's go back here and we'll get back to the review menu and so now I can push this and now it gives me the option option to upload that via Wi-Fi so let's hope Panasonic listens and gives us a firmware update that will handle that automatically maybe you're watching from the future and you'll be able to do that another feature that is useful is being able to remotely control it particularly for vloggers so let's back up a little bit here let's get out of the Wi-Fi mode I'll go back into Wi-Fi so we can select a different function setting Wi-Fi function new connection and then remote sure to shooting and view now I need to go back to my phone and connect to that Wi-Fi network again again this if I work home where I have a Wi-Fi connection my phone would probably automatically connect to it connect to the Wi-Fi switch back to the app ok so now on my app here I chose local control and now I can see what's going on with the camera and you can see it knows it's manually focusing so it's actually giving me a little icon there let's focus on this cool camera over here there we go and now I have a variety of different options here like I can make it auto focus if the line supported auto focus I can hit the shutter button I can record video this is super useful if you need to record yourself if you're setting up the camera across the room and you want to run over there and focus on yourself you put that on there hit AF and then hit record and you can make sure your head isn't being cut off and you're properly and focus the Wi-Fi features the camera also include the ability to automatically upload images to your smartphone as you're kind of taking them so let's go over how to do that I'll hit the menu button here and as I go into the wrench icon I go down to Wi-Fi looks like the Wi-Fi function I'm going to do a new connection and then send images while recording it's kind of a wireless tethering and I'm going to send this to my smart phone but you can see you can send it to other stuff I will do a direct connection manual connection let's set up the Wi-Fi access point for me so now I'm going to connect to that on my phone camera tells me to launch the image app so I will do as I'm told let's connect it to the camera selected is to connect to confirm that it's the iPhone now you can change the resolution of the images that are coming in and so now I should be able to just take pictures and have them sent over let's take a picture of this lens that's on the desk okay I don't know if that's a bug or what but it wouldn't let me autofocus in this mode so I had to manually focus but I took the shot I can see the Wi-Fi indicator here indicates that it's connected so I can go back to my phone here you can see it says waiting for in trans I don't know why they abbreviate words like that we could go ahead and spell that out you got room while we're waiting notice that the blue light here indicates the Wi-Fi is on so now it will transfer pictures in real time but they have to be JPEG if you are shooting raw it will not send them over so you can shoot raw plus JPEG but it will not auto convert your picture so let's make Justin our star here again take a picture okay and I can see my phone look a little spinny thing up here registering received pictures I took a few pictures so it's sending them all over and now it prompts me to check the downloaded pictures I can keep shooting it could just get quick cancel but let's click yes and we can look at them there they are there's Justin waving so that's a cool feature that will kind of continuously download either full size or smaller pictures in the background meaning you have them instantly on your smart phone where you could then print them or share them without having to in other words it's happening in the background so everything is automatically sent over it will burn through a lot of batteries but I've it it works pretty well as long as you remember to set it to JPEG let's talk about using Bluetooth on this camera whereas Wi-Fi is like long distance high speed high bandwidth kind of wireless connection Bluetooth is short range low power low bandwidth so it does some different things like commune the time and GPS data from your can of your smartphone to your camera which is just kind of a convenience thing but these are useful features so to do that the first thing we'll do is you go in and turn bluetooth on so there's the menu button I'll go down to the wrench icon here go down to bluetooth bluetooth is off so I will turn that on and for now we can terminate the Wi-Fi connection okay so now it's telling me there are no paired devices so what we're going to do is go into app here go to the home and still trying to ok I'm going to hit Bluetooth here so now it shows that this camera is ready I tapped it ok so it wants me to connect to the Wi-Fi network here so I'll have to go into my settings there it is so I'll select the gh five Wi-Fi network again so we can see the camera still waiting let's go back here alright so now they're connected over Wi-Fi and they're going to use that to communicate about bluetooth pairing completed yay ok so ok here so now if I go up here I can turn bluetooth on you can see the camera here is registered if you click the camera at this point you have some options about using the Panasonic Lumix cloud service where it can automatically transfer images from your your camera to your smartphone and then to the cloud this is going to burn through a lot of power and might use a lot of data if you're traveling around then the less it does give you the option to automatically back stuff up anywhere in the world so if somebody were to steal your camera pictures you took minutes earlier would be safe somewhere so it is kind of cool you just have to turn on automatic back up here and you could see you can change the condition we will stop if you're running out of batteries and you can change it from original to a smaller version of the image you delete like location data is turned on by default so you can turn that off if you want your GPS data to still be stored they probably have it on because people would be concerned our privacy you don't necessarily want systems administrators at Panasonic knowing exactly where you are as you're taking picture but I personally wouldn't care that much so now that Bluetooth is set up and it's connected we can go in and control exactly what the Bluetooth is capable of so underneath that Bluetooth menu here on the jh5 you can see we have a lot of options that are features of the Bluetooth connection for example remote wakeup will allow you to turn your camera on from your smartphone auto transfer will automatically send pictures over so it will give that a shot so as I went to turn that on it realized it needs a Wi-Fi connection to the smart phone so both the camera and the smartphone prompted me to connect to that Wi-Fi network so on my phone here I can I just need to connect back to the Wi-Fi network it would automatically connect if I didn't have my home Wi-Fi within range but because my phone is seeing my home Wi-Fi keep saying oh I'll just connect to that so that's why I have to keep going back and forth it's kind of a pain on Android you might see that it connects automatically so what it's done there is set up the automatic transfer of images so that when I take images it will automatically send them over the difference between that and what we did in the previous section is that the Bluetooth just simplifies the setup a little bit it makes it a little bit quicker as far as connecting go goes and that's a big part of what Bluetooth does for you let's go back into the Bluetooth settings here and turn on location logging which allows your camera to tag GPS data onto each of the photos you take it's pulling the GPS data from your phone here so as I turn that on on the camera the phone prompts me to allow the Panasonic app to access my location data so I'll tell it to allow that and now my pictures will be automatically GPS tagged if you use Adobe Lightroom when you import your pictures you will be able to go to the map tab the map panel in Lightroom and see where all your pictures are taken and if you're traveling around that's such a cool feature it also means even if you're just taking pictures of your kids if you can say oh I want to those pictures that we took at the park or at the zoo instead of having to remember the day where you took those pictures to find them you can just go to the map and zoom right in I love GPS data in fact I wish was built into the camera will also turn on the auto clock set which is great if you're traveling around between different time zones because I always forget to change the time on my camera but now it'll automatically synchronize it up and that pretty much sums up what you can do with Bluetooth I'm I'm glad they have that feature if some of this seems like a pain to if you're struggling getting the Wi-Fi network connected if you don't feel like manually converting over your RAW images to JPEG before sending them over or if you want to send over video here's an accessory I really recommend it's a little SD card reader now the one I'm holding is for Apple I'm going to hold this over here so you can see it's got a thunderbolt port like this but you can get SD card readers for Android devices or anything else and it works really really simply I'll just take out one of these memory cards here I will put it into my SD card reader wrong way and then I could just connect it directly into my smartphone or tablet or whatever and this process is going to be a little bit different than it would be on Android but on iOS devices like iPhones and iPads you can see it brings up the import dialog here and so now I can see all the images that it has on this particular memory card so I can now go through and just select specific images like that and then click import and just import the selected pictures and it will copy them over and now if there are RAW images you could go into Lightroom and process them you could pull the videos into iMovie even if their 4k 60p videos the resolution doesn't matter it will work really smoothly and and just perfectly when we travel I'll often make little mini videos based on the videos that I have here pulling them in through this and then publishing them directly from my phone so that process is what I use more than Wi-Fi this is just better than Wi-Fi now I'll show you how to use the G h5 s 6k photo feature which will take pictures at 30 frames per second that's super fast like even our a nine only does twenty frames a second it's a little limited they're going to be layer you know JPEG files there's not going to be auto focusing while you're you're shooting but to be able to capture action at 30 frames a second as pretty remaining so to do that you'll use this shutter dial here and switch it over to 6k and well that pretty much does there's not much else to it I wish it I let me see I don't have a fidget spinner or anything let's see if I can create some action here I'm going to focus ahead of time and then okay so I took a series of pictures they're at a super fast rate and now what I can do is scrub through them would the process for sixty photos is you'll take a whole bunch of photos in a very short amount of time and then pick the frame that you want because you probably don't want to be taken you know 30 frames a second that's too many but it's nice that I can just pick the specific frame that I think is the most interesting so maybe that's the most interesting frame and with that selected I'll touch that and then select save this image so now it's going to processing is kind of extracts it to its own file and I can go through here and select multiple different images like maybe I just think the way it catches the light and this frame it's just beautiful sorry I don't have better action for you have that and I click yes now you'll notice as you're going through and selecting it it will prompt you to reduce the rolling shutter right here disp reduce rolling shutter the rolling shutter will add like a little bit of slant to any fast-moving subjects still subjects will not be impacted but if there's a fast-moving subject it will distort it a little bit so you can experiment with this by hitting the disc button here and see if it actually improves it this picture can't be used I don't know why it's saying but we'll go ahead and say that picture because that one really it's going to go in my scrapbook and I just want future generations to see that picture ok so that's how you do 6k photo you know where it's useful as if maybe it's a baseball player is swinging you really want as many frames as possible if you're going to try to get that bat hitting the ball that's split-second because you can't time that you really just there's no substitute for just having as many frames per second as possible that's the kind of scenario you're going to use it in you're not going to use it once so which is running towards you're running away where we need to be changing focusing it's going to be a mostly still subject but a high action scene I also want to show you another trick called post focus which essentially takes pictures at different focal points and then allows you to later choose where you want the focal point to be or even stack those pictures together to get a really high depth of field for everything from the foreground to the background is in focus and like 6k video you'll select it by moving the shutter dial here over to this icon and now you're in post focus mode so what we can do is let's see how that's set up a little scene with a couple of different cameras and so there you can see it did a little extra processing and now that it's captured that I can click around the different frame and this one doesn't have a huge amount of background blur but look at this camera in the background see oh it's blurry there I go back there and get the frame where that one's in focus so it's just focused on all different points in the frame refocused and snapped all those pictures and then just kind of lets me pick which one I want so now that I picked which one I want I can click you can zoom in over here if you want to see it zoomed in one-to-one so it's just really tight so back here you can click this icon here to extract a particular image notice here I can push fn2 to show focus peaking so this will show me see highlighted in blue it's going to show me which parts of the image were in focus here the front of the lens was in focus there that camera at the back was in focus didn't happen to get a images from over here cuz didn't see anything and there wasn't enough contrast if you want to do the focus stacking you can touch this icon up here or press the FN one button and let's go and do Auto merging this would be more obvious if we were in some beautiful landscape with flowers in the foreground and mountains in the distant background it would be able to stack those pretty good and make it look pretty good so what it's brought to me is just it's just confirming that I want to stack those pictures so now it's going to because it took pictures with the flowers and the foreground in focus and the mountains in the background and focus it's going to take those sharp flower pictures and blend them into those pictures where the background is and focus it's a technique called focus stacking which is something I described in chapter 12 of my book standing digital photography I show you how to do it manually in tools like Photoshop and that will always get you better results than the kind of in-camera focus stacking that happens here this is okay but what you'll the result you'll get when you go to look at them you'll see some serious flaws or you might see flaws it depends on the scene how much movement it there is how much the foreground like physically overlaps with the background these are all factors that will determine the amount of success you'll get with the post focus stacking tools so what will happen is sometimes those pictures the pictures that automatically generates will be usable and good and sometimes it will be unusable manually stack that you always have the opportunity to rescue it so my suggestion is what I continue to do is to manually change the focusing points myself focusing in the foreground focusing in the middle ground focus in the background and then use the techniques that described in Chapter thirteen a stunning digital photography to bring those together into a sharp picture with infinite depth of field but this is a really quick way to do it so feel free to do that it can be if you just want to share some pictures quickly you'll probably get results that are good enough as i zoom in here I you know the pictures dark but I don't see any are handling artifacts I think it did a really good job of processing those together but it is a completely static scene there's no flowers moving back and forth that's one of the things that cause problems so it's kind of an ideal scenario for that let's I use post focus like I said you might not always want to use it but I want to show you how so I want to go over some accessories for the camera that in my experience where they have really improved my shooting and talked about some of my favorite lenses software the first up is Adobe Lightroom I constantly use a doubly Lightroom for light editing photo organizing and then I will pull images into Adobe Photoshop wanting to do the heavier editing things like working with layers blending multiple images together you can get both of them together by going to SDP 2i o slash Adobe deal that's Amazon and they will just give you like a year of the Adobe Creative Cloud the way Adobe does pretty much everything now is they want to lease you the software so they're basically renting you the software you pay in a monthly basis but it's not bad I think it works out to like ten bucks a month maybe a little bit less in the US to get both those apps together and they used to cost you know you'd spend five hundred bucks on two of them so it's not really a bad deal some people I know want to purchase it outright but if you do that you won't get all the latest updates and in fact they cut some major features out of Lightroom for people who don't pay monthly so I just tell people they just pretty much got to pay monthly you will get dust on the sensor especially if you travel around it's kind of inevitable so you'll just have to go in and clean that dust out occasionally you will end up with spots in the sky and in areas where there aren't much detail I use this tool at sdp to i/o slash sensor clear notice the K and name that takes you to Amazon where you can buy it and I found that's the best way to clean up test out a bunch of different things also check chapter 5 and stunning digital photography we have a video showing you exactly how I use sensor clear let's talk about lenses any micro four-thirds lens will work on the gh 5 the two main manufacturers are Panasonic and Olympus of course the gh 5 is made by Panasonic and that means that they test it with their own Panasonic lenses they don't necessarily test it or fix problems with Olympus lenses or other manufactured lenses another benefit of using Panasonic lenses is that the hybrid image stabilization can work so with this Panasonic lens will use the optical image stabilization and lens and then the sensor stabilization and the camera those will combine together and give you really outstanding image stabilization performance so it's a really good reason to purchase Panasonic lenses over the Olympus lenses if you're working with the gh 5 if you're working with lenses that don't have the image stabilization built in like little primes and stuff doesn't make that much of a difference really i we use lots of Olympus launches with it has been fine first my favorite lens is the one that is attached here the panasonic 14 to 140 it's just a great walking around lens it could be a little wider it could be a little longer it could be a little sharper but especially for 4k video vlogging the types of things that we do with it it's absolutely perfect because it's just so versatile you can real quickly zoom in on a faraway subject so it's just it's our go-to lens even though we have sharper lenses and stuff it's the one that gets the most use you can pick it up from Amazon at stp io / P 140 another lens we use for lower light is the panasonic 12 to 35 f28 so whereas the 14 to 140 is an f5 six lens this f28 lens will gather four times more light meaning you can get the same video quality or image quality even if the lights are cut by 75% in a particular room so it's good for low-light but it doesn't have the same range that this 14 to 140 does so you won't be able to get to faraway subjects the same way that's a little wider on the wide end if you're working in tight quarters so that's what I would pick for events and stuff let's start to put big glass on these cameras they become big and bulky just like bigger DSLRs however you always have the option with these mirrorless cameras to slap on a little pancake lens there's a bunch of different pancake lenses but my favorite has been the the Panasonic 20 millimeters f17 it's fast so it's great in low light and it's small so you can see this is now a pretty small kit you can carry this around with you and put it on your dinner table and it won't take up at the table and because of the sensor stabilized stabilization will be stabilized and it's only 250 bucks so grab one of these from our amazon link and throw it in your bag and just keep it with you it's just really convenient another lens that I really love is the 45 millimeter f-18 it's a great small compact portrait lens if you want to blur the background get that kind of effect it's really great at that and it's not that expensive a big step up from that is the 75 millimeter f-18 this is an Olympus lens it is he it's probably the sharpest lens we own period for any of our systems it's outstandingly sharp it throws the background so far out of focus so you get just amazing bouquet with it it's pretty light this is actually the lenses that comes off and we use it constantly but we've just always really impressed with the results on that but you pay for it too like 900 bucks but it's a great lens now Micro Four Thirds lenses are what we prefer to use they're natively integrated they focus the fastest but if you really want bouquet if you want like full-frame camera results or if you want really really low light type of capabilities you simply cannot beat using these 2 Sigma lenses that I'm about to recommend with a meta bones adapter so that's what I have on this other camera over here this is underneath this lens here this is the meta bones 0.64 x XL adapter and it's specifically designed for using the video modes on the gh 5 with full frame or aps-c lenses 0.64 is the crop factor basically so you might have heard that Micro Four Thirds cameras have a 2x crop factor which means that if you attach a 50 millimeter lens to a Micro Four Thirds camera it will give you an angle of view like a hundred millimeter lens because 50 times 2 equals 100 but that might not be what you want if you want to back off that crop factor 0.64 teleconverter will will apply against that 2x teleconverter so the way the math works out is you'll end up with about a 1.3 times crop factor here so now that 50 millimeter lens that you put on there would end up being like a 65 millimeter lens would be still a little bit longer than the 50 millimeters but it would be significantly shorter these meta bones adapters are expensive it's 650 bucks but it supports autofocus that sports electronic control over the aperture if you using Canon lens pretty much everybody's adapting Canon mount lenses either Sigma or other third-party manufacturers but Canon mount lenses EF lenses to the gh 5 the first ones that I suggest for this is the Sigma 18 to 35 f-18 when you put that meta bones on there it behaves physically like an 11 to 22 millimeter F one point one zoom lens so that's been like Micro Four Thirds terms but a zoom lens at F 1.1 is amazing and you can shoot with this gh 5 in near darkness the darkest bars restaurants you can imagine and you get nice clean video you also get that like full-frame look for background blur so even at a wide angle you can focus on a nearby subject and catch the background noticeably out-of-focus it's it's totally pro looking it is cinematic looking this particular combination the meta bones and then 18 to 35 also produces incredible flare we're better or worse you will be like JJ Abrams is if the Sun or any light source in here behind cause it just flares like crazy nonetheless I've shot a lot with this combination and I really like the results in full frame terms the combination of this and that 18 to 35 turns it into this an equivalent of 22 to 44 millimeters F 2.2 so it doesn't quite have the range of 24 to 70 f28 that you might use on a full frame camera but it's actually faster it's actually gathering more light so it will actually produce better results in low light and give you a little bit more background blur in that limited range another lens I I really like is this monster here the Sigma 1 50 to 100 f-18 and so again it's an f-18 zoom but then you put on this meadow bones adapter and it becomes n f11 zoom even in 35 millimeter full-frame terms it turns into a 64 128 millimeter F 2.2 zoom which again that's incredibly fast it means it's going to work incredibly well in low light one caveat with both these lenses and the meadow bones adapters that I want to warn you about is using the full width if you're not using the digital teleconverter and you're using the sensor stabilization you will sometimes get weird been getting if you're walking around the sensor will be moving and it might get into parts of the frame that don't have any light so you might then have to go back in post and crop it down a little bit to cut out that been getting it will happen sometimes at the wider angles of these two lenses so if you have that 18 to 35 and you're shooting at the widest side of it you might see a little bit of that jetting around if you're also moving but during normal shooting tripod shooting wouldn't see any of that you also wouldn't see it if you just zoomed in to like 20 millimetres or so if you want to eliminate any possibility of use of been getting instead of getting the 0.6 4x speed booster get the 0.714 meta bones on there recommended our two favorite our three favorite tripods two favorite tripods our favorite travel tripods would be free live it has a pan tilt head it's fairly small and has a leveling head too so you know if you're on unlevel ground a little bit such a panic and B to get everything level this makes it really easy to level it it's only 212 bucks please have great results with it check at Amazon STP dot io / BFL if you want a more serious video tripod that you don't need that sort of portability this is the combination that we use it's heavier duty but the panning and tilting is much smoother check it out at SDP io / level head on Amazon a couple of mic suggestions the mic I'm using now is the Sennheiser II W 100 g3 people always ask but Mike you are using it sounds good the kit can be kind of expensive 620 bucks but you can pick it up at FTP io / g3 I know people go through if you're currently using a shotgun mic like this Road the results are going to be so much better it's of course you have to mic the person but it just gives you better sound than a shotgun mic we still use a shotgun mic on a regular basis because it's convenient though if you need to mic to people you can get two sets of those g3s and combine them with one of these breakout cables or any you want to combine any two mics these breakout cables that I'm suggesting take one mic and put on the left channel of the audio and the second I can put on the right channel of the audio when you go and import your video files you'll just need to split those apart as two separate mono channels we've used that for years it works really good that $10 breakout cable is such a lifesaver recently for our field work we still use the Sennheiser's in the studio here but for field work we switched to using Sony lavalier mics for a couple of reasons the first is that we have fewer interference problems I don't know the radio frequencies are just a little more powerful whatever but as we travel around at different places we find random interference so we like them that better for that purpose another benefit you can see one set of them is 530 bucks at stp iowa slash sunday live sony lab at amazon the other benefit to that system is they have a dual receiver available so for 800 bucks it's expensive you can get one of these receivers that will allow two wireless lav mics to come into a single receiver and that has saved us a lot of trouble because we're constantly miking both me and Chelsea and we used to always have two separate Sennheiser receivers on the camera on-like of a set of antlers and then the breakout cable it's so nice that the Sony lab just reduces that to one device it's less to troubleshoot it's a one fewer pair of batteries that you have to worry about carrying around and just that's our suggestion if you need to mic multiple people thanks for watching I hope you appreciate that making this video is an effort on our part like my voice is completely blown out we had to film it over two separate days which is why if you noticed any discontinuity that's why one way you can show our support is by subscribing to get more free videos you can give us a comment say well it say your own suggestions for using the gh 5 suggest products that you think would help or just say thanks you can give us a like to help us out share it with your friends send them to ask Topeka Iowa / tutorial for other camera tutorials and you can buy our books that help support all the cynic and all possible spending digital photography teaches you not just photography but the basics of composition light mood portrait posing portraits storytelling the things that will really escalate your images and video from snapshots to really serious work for stills work you'll definitely want to be using the Lightroom and Photoshop that's just what all the pros use and to get the most out of them you'll need some education so our books include more than 10 hours of video training in each of those that will so you can read or you can watch the videos or you can do both whatever is more convenient for you if you just have gear questions if you just want to know which lens to get or what the EF difference between F s and EF lenses is I have this massive gear Bible the photography buying guide that answers all those questions for you and can save you thousands of dollars the ebook versions of these things are only ten bucks you can pick them up at our store we ship worldwide to sdp to iOS store or just go to Amazon and search for Tony North or for sending digital photography and look at the reviews there because the reviews are kind of safe sdp has over 2000 reviews with the five-star average rating we're really proud of that people are really happy with the book so I hope you enjoy it too again follow up with any comments down below and thanks bye you

Channel: Tony & Chelsea Northrup

Views: 534,583

Rating: 4.8506389 out of 5

Keywords: training, how-to, how, to, photography, tutorial, canon, nikon, dslr, stunning, digital, photo, picture, pictures, gh5, panasonic gh5, gh5 panasonic, tony northrup, tony northrup gh5, gh5 settings, gh5 tony northrup, gh5 guide, gh5 tony, gh5 overview, gh5 video, tony and chelsea, lumix gh5, gh5 northrup, gh5 white balance, northrup, panasonic, gh 5, northrup gh5, tony gh5

Id: K6-ezqIyMv8

Length: 118min 30sec (7110 seconds)

Published: Wed Jul 26 2017

Reddit Comments

[u/dhiltonp]

I'm glad to finally see a demo of the connectivity features.

At the same time, I'm a little disappointed - I was hoping for something a bit more powerful.

Specifically, raws can't be transferred to a phone, and I have my doubts about automatic backup working reliably if I'm turning on/off the camera...