Canon 90D Tutorial Training Overview & Tips Video

hi my name is Michael Andrew and I'm about to give you your free tutorial on the brand new Canon 90d congratulations on your purchase it is a very powerful and complex camera if you're coming from another system you're going to want to check out the table of contents below in the description depending on your browser you can go control up or command F type in the topic that you're interested in and if we have a chapter market for it click the timecode next to it and it'll jump you to that section of the course if you are brand-new to photography I have to give you a word of warning this is a reference video to the operation of the camera only we're gonna be talking about how to use different controls and what the buttons that are named what they do it is not enough for you to go out and take great images right away I always tell all of my students in the beginning I was so frustrated I almost broke my camera I almost gave up there are about seven or eight things you really need to have under your belt to take great images consistently and this is where begin your struggle is sometimes they get lucky sometimes they don't and they're wondering what am I doing wrong I have a systematic approach and we have a canon 90 be crash course in production right now that includes a one-hour crash course on the basics of photography lighting composition we have a section on strobe photography we talk about the different kinds of video shooting and then I take the camera and I show you the real-world shooting situations such as sports in landscape in portraits absolutely packed with information so if you find this video helpful and you want to get the most out of your camera as quickly as possible check for the link in the description if it's not yet published I'll point that to my blog and you can leave your name and your email address we will reach out to you as soon as it's ready my friend Tony Northup also has an excellent book called stunning digital photography that's more about the basics of photography covers it in much more depth my courses are more about speed Tony's a good friend of mine but he did not ask me to share that with you I just think it is a great resource in any event we have a tremendous amount of information to cover so let's get started let's take a look at all the external buttons and controls on our Canon 90d this is the shutter button it has to position the first is a halfway Depression which will engage the cameras focusing systems the second is a full depression which will actually take the picture we want to teach our finger to feel the difference between these two positions the first is like this spongy resistance and this is important because sometimes we are just going to want to focus the camera and other times we are definitely going to want to take the picture just behind the shutter button we have our main dial I like to refer to it as the primary selector for a very good reason I will demonstrate later on in the video you will notice that it rotates to the left and right and its main purpose is to change our exposure settings on the back of the camera you will notice a big round control wheel this is referred to as the quick control dial by cannon but I like to call it the secondary selector it's easy to miss that there are actually three separate controls here the first is a ring which rotates to the right and left we use this wheel to change our exposure settings just inside of that we have a directional pad that we can push up down left and right as well as each of the four diagonals it's very useful for selecting menus and navigating through certain screens in the center of this control we have the set button which acts as an enter button would on a computer it's very useful when selecting or confirming certain menu options on the top left of the camera you will notice a round dial with a bunch of letters on it this is our mode dial it is going to allow us to determine the behavior of the camera and how much help it is giving us you will notice that there is a pin in the center which must be pressed in order to rotate it this is to prevent accidental bumping just behind into the left of our shutter button we have the auto focus area selector I like to call this the cluster button it is going to allow us to choose different types of focusing squares when shooting if you were to grip the camera with your right hand next to your right ring finger you will notice a very elusive button on the bottom of the camera it's very easy to miss it this is referred to is the depth of field preview button it's job is to stop the aperture blades down so we can see the depth of field in real time on the opposite side of the lens that big oval button we see is the lens release button we are going to press this every time we take a lens off of the camera as a side note when you put a new lens on be sure to rotate the lens until you hear that clicking sound that will designate that the lens is locked into position above the lens release we have the forest' flash button this will activate our built-in flash to fire and will also allow us to gain access to certain controls to change the performance of the flash on the left side of the camera under some rubberized grips we have a microphone and headphone jack we have a wired remote terminal we have a USB port as well as a mini HDMI port on the right side of the camera we have our SD card slot and below it we have our battery compartment next to the mode dial we have our power switch which obviously we need to turn on for the camera to work and below it we have the menu button in the information button the menu button is going to give us access to the deep menu of the camera there are a ton of settings in here and we will briefly cover the most important a little later in the video pressing the info button repeatedly will allow us to toggle through different screens whether we're shooting in Live View or if we want to access the Q screen while using the optical viewfinder it's also useful when we're playing back images to get certain types of shooting information to the right of the viewfinder we have our live view and video record mode button this is a rotating switched it has a white notch on it when pointing to the white camera we will be activating Live View by sing the start and stop button live view allows us to use our back monitor to preview the shot the composition the exposure even before we take the picture when we rotate this switch to the red camera icon we are turning the camera into video recording mode in pressing start and stop will begin and end video recording to the top right of the viewfinder this little knob here is referred to as the diopter adjustment this is going to change the optics of the viewfinder which is fantastic for those of us which use corrective eyewear below the live view video record switch we have the joystick which is going to be critical when changing our focusing squares as well as navigating certain menus below and to the right of it we have the cue button which will allow us to change our camera settings on our back monitor depending on what screen we are currently in to review your images after shooting press the playback button we can swipe to the left and right with our finger on our touch sensitive screen and we can also use the secondary control wheel to navigate I'll demonstrate this a little later we also have the garbage can icon and as you guessed correctly this is going to allow us to delete images to the right of that we have the lock switch which we can designate certain features to not change when this switch is shifted to the left this prevents accidental bumping things of that nature on the top right of the camera where our right thumb would rest we have three buttons the first is the auto focus on button which will also engage our focusing systems when we press this this is particularly useful for those of our sports shooting friends who prefer back button focus and I will briefly cover this a little later next to it we have the exposure lock button which when we are in the program aperture priority or shutter priority mode will lock our current exposure for a few seconds and allow us to recompose the shot and take it without our exposure settings changing when we are using flash this becomes the flash exposure lock button which will fire a pre flash meter the same in again allows us to shoot within a few seconds without the camera changing its settings on the far right we have our autofocus point selector which when we press this it will allow us to change our focusing squares when looking through the viewfinder also important to note these two magnifying glasses just below them what those designate is that when we are in a playback mode or when we are in certain live view modes we can use these buttons to zoom in and out of our images as well is to zoom in in certain stages of live view to get tak sharp focus on the top of the camera we have an LCD display and five buttons the button on the far right is a light so if you're in a dark shooting situation and you just want to see the LCD tap that light and it'll light up and allow you to see what's going on the other four buttons correspond to the LCD feature below them starting from the left we have autofocus the second one is our drive modes the third is the ISO the fourth is the metering mode in the way this works is that when you press one of these buttons and rotate the primary selector you will be able to scroll through different icons allowing you to see which setting you are changing it to so for example if I wanted to change my ISO I would press the ISO button and rotate the main dial to my new ISO setting and that's how those four buttons correspond with the information below them below these four features we have our shutter speed in this number here even displayed in whole numbers is really a fraction and then we have our aperture in the brackets you will see a number designating the number of shots remaining on our memory card with the current quality and file size below these we have our exposure compensation bar and on the far right we have our Wi-Fi indicator as well as our current battery life it's also critically important for me to note that our are ticking leading monitor is touch-sensitive it is a joy and a pleasure to use it makes life a lot easier when changing certain camera settings so that's an overview of all the buttons and controls on our Canon 90d I want to promise you that if you practice the day will come that you have complete control over your camera you will feel confident and comfortable when shooting for now I know there might be some confusion so come back any time you want and we'll review it again together for the rest of the video let's talk about the major features and controls of our Canon 9 TD our Canon 9 TD is referred to as an aps-c sensor and if you notice we have this lens release lock here when we have a lens on we're gonna have to push this before rotating a lens off you'll also notice we have this little dimple right here this is going to line up with the red dot on the lens mount itself if you have a lens designed for aps-c sensors you're going to look for the white dot you're gonna line up the white dot on your lens with the white dot on the lens mount I have a full frame lens which is a red dot and I'm gonna line that up with the red dot now you can definitely use full-frame lenses on your aps-c camera I have I think over 10 EF lenses I use them all the time but the lens that I use more than any is the 24 to 70 2.8 I'm about to put it on something you'll notice is that underneath the lens cap cover of every lens it will tell you the filter thread size of the lens mount this is very important when you're using filters and things of that nature so you can know the size of that but that's underneath the lens cap so depending on the lens that you have I'm what you're going to line up the dot in this case red dot on red dot and I'm going to rotate it clockwise as I face it to lock so you're going to hear it click there's the click and you can know it's on all the way sometimes if you put it on and it's not on all the way they can pop off but again if you want to remove the lens push the lens release in before doing so so when we're talking about memory cards for our Canon 90 D it's important that get minimum a card that has this little symbol on here that says u3 class u3 designation is a sustained right speed for 4k video so if you if you get some old memory card out of the bottom of your desk and you just throw it in your camera you may not be getting the maximum performance out of your camera that you could on here 170 megabytes per second but this for the video is super important I like the SanDisk Extreme pros this is a 64 gigabyte card so plenty of images something to keep in mind however is that this is a class UHS one card and they make class UHS 2 cards they're a little bit more expensive but the right speed is obviously faster you can see it's 300 megabytes per second this is a larger capacity I usually tell my students to get the best memory card that you can afford I've seen the prices on these 64's come down quite a bit and we'll put those in the description below if you guys want to check those out you can get away with quite a bit with with the UHS one class card but the highest performing ones right now at the time of this recording are the UHS too and this is a great card I use it in a lot of my tests I'll be posting some sports testing videos and you'll see the buffer test answer in terms of how the camera does and much that depends on the card in any event when you're ready to put the card in you're going to notice we have this icon where it's showing that we have this little cut corner here and that's the way it goes into the camera when you hear it click you can lock the door and you're going to be ready to go when we're ready to put our charge battery in we're going to just move this tab down and we're going to match the shape of the battery to the grip with the pins on the top slides right in to unlock it you're going to slide this white release here and it comes right out definitely recommend getting at least one extra battery sometimes two cannon batteries actually last really long but at least have one extra battery let's turn our cameras on and we're going to go ahead and set up the date we can rotate on the wheel you notice I'm pushing set I could also do it here up and down here I'll have to turn that beep off we don't have daylight savings in Hawaii so we're good to go and all that setup we're gonna hit okay if you don't have your camera in hand please pause the video grab it so you can follow along in the LCD information we're about to talk about and there is also many important symbols in numbers I'm going to explain what they are this is going to make a lot of sense once we go through it together something important to note is that the camera is on right now and we don't see anything on our back monitor when you are shooting sports or fast-moving subjects you are going to want to be in this mode and you want to look through the optical viewfinder use the focusing systems in this mode they're going to be far superior to any Live View focusing so this is the optical shooting and when I turn this monitor on in the back this is referred to as live u basically what's happening is the mirror is going to flip up and we get a live view of what's coming through the lens in this mode but when you see right now without the screen we are seeing we are looking through the lens through a pentaprism in the camera that bounces down and off a mirror far superior for fast-moving subjects it's a really great focusing system so just keep that in mind if you ever go sports shooting and things of that nature this is the setup that you want when we are talking about live view and many of the icons we're going to see however we are going to push this start/stop button this is going to put us into the live view for stills that's what the white camera indicates when we want to shoot video we can point to the red video camera and that puts us in a video shooting mode but we're going to talk about stills for now you can snow tiss that it kicks us out and there are a couple really important numbers I'm going to change the mode dial here to manual we get this preview will turn off in just a second you can see it's kind of dark that's fine for now but these numbers on the bottom of the screen that you're going to see these are the most important settings that you can keep your eye on when you are shooting stills this is our shutter speed it is designated infractions so 150 of a second sometimes on some cameras it'll just be a number so as you look through the viewfinder for example it might be something different depending on the camera you're using aperture refers to how wide the opening of the lenses in terms of the its diameter this is one of those lessons that we'll talk about on the crash course where I'll give you the basis of photography this last number over here is the ISO so shutter speed aperture and the ISO the iso deals with how much boost the sensor is going to get how the easiest way to think of it is how sensitive the sensor is if you really want to get into it's an electronic boost that actually happens after the pictures taken we'll be talking a little bit about that later on in the video but if you look through the viewfinder you are going to see similar numbers in the viewfinder you're going to see your shutter speed your aperture and your ISO so those three numbers critically important but we will talk about them in depth in the exposure lesson this funny bracket right here is the exposure compensation bracket it helps determine the brightness of the image we'll also be talking about that up in the top left hand corner we have our mode indicator it's currently in the manual mode the mode is essentially how the camera helps us determine the shutter speed or the apps your aperture we can get a little bit of help from the camera or we can get a lot of help from the camera we'll be talking about that in a moment but this symbol here is what mode what shooting mode we are currently in anytime you see a number between brackets it's typically the number of shots remaining depending on the capacity of our memory card as well as whether we are shooting in JPEG raw things of that nature and you'll notice that this number here after it that refers to the how many shots we can take consecutively before the camera starts to slow down its buffer it's very important for sports shooters we have the remaining life of our battery we also have the cue or the quick mode and this is our touch shutter indicator here so if we wanted to touch on the screen you'll notice that we get a little focusing box the camera is focusing where we touch and it's taking a picture if to me this is super annoying so I leave it on disable so this is just the general shooting screen with general information something I want you to do right now is press the info button and watch what happens as we push the info button we are toggling on and off different types of information we'll be talking about all these in just a second but this is pretty important if you ever get to a screen and you're wondering hey where'd all that other information go histograms help us know the relative brightness of an image let's talk about some of these other guys in how to change them we have our tracking we'll talk about that later but when we press the cue button you're going to notice we get two columns of information on the side and we get one row on the bottom so each of these columns are different camera settings that we can choose from the row on the bottom are different selections for the highlighted choice so if we're talking about white balance you can see all the different white balance settings we have on the bottom of the camera you can choose through those so just keep that in mind these are our selections and this is options within each selection we're going to be talking about a lot of these in the video we will talk about the real-world examples in the 90 d crash course but real quickly so you know what they are these are our auto focusing modes you have to keep on pushing this oh and you'll notice we have a designated cue button right here we can just push to turn that on or off so the first one here I like to refer to these as clusters these are the types of boxes we can use for focusing we have our auto focus mode also referred to as auto focus operation we have our drive mode which is what the camera does after we push the shutter button down all the way whether it's a single shot or multiple shots when we take a look at these on the bottom here let's go through these real quick we have a single shot we have our high speed continuous burst our 90 D will shoot it ten frames per second which is awesome we have a low speed continuous burst which is not as many frames per second we have our South timer 10 seconds we have our two seconds south timer and we have our self timer continuous this is basically allowing the camera to take multiple images if we press the info button we can determine how many of those images it'll take when the timer gets out of time and those are the drive modes this is what the camera does after we push the shutter button down all the way metering modes we will discuss this is how the camera measures light we have our image quality which deals with whether we are shooting JPEG or raw and there's different sizes and compressions we have our white balance we'll be talking about this in detail in this lesson we have our picture Styles which is essentially how the camera bakes or creates JPEG images and there's a lot to choose from this is if you're brand new to shooting this is probably a little bit too much information I would say start off on the auto picture style it's also going to allow us to come in here and tweak different parts of this recipe in terms of the sharpness you know and how detailed it is - things like contrast saturation color tone again probably a little bit too much information for pure beginners but it's there if you need it very handy for videography next we have our auto lighting optimizer which applies as general contrast to the image it's fine when you're first getting started and then finally we have the creative filters which I am not a huge fan of I think it's little gimmicky and I never use them so that is the quick screen if you ever want to jump to it and tweak some of those camera settings something else I need to point out is that when you see these gray highlights you can touch even four shutter speed and aperture touch and drag because we have a touchscreen it's very the screens amazing Canon has the best touch screens by far it's not even close and it makes it a lot it's a more enjoyable shooting experience in my opinion I think it is so that is the quick overlay screen as we're shooting if we want that information to we can just press the info button there it is there's our histogram and there is no information if you want it you get to get it out of the way something else that's really important when we use the full sensor we're shooting at a 2 by 3 aspect ratio and this is 16 by 9 when we go to video so we lose a crop a little bit of the top and the bottom you're going to notice that some of the cue items have changed when we come into the Q menu we have our resolutions right here on the bottom 4k full HD and we'll be talking a little bit about these when we get into the menus but the number below it is the frame rate so 4k at 30 frames per second and when we touch that item we get the resolution of the video how many pixels wide by how many pixels tall by how many frames per second it also gives us our maximum recording time which is 30 minutes and we see some of these other frame rates 60 frames at HD which is 1920 by 1080 30 we have a more compressed setting and then we even have the 720 resolution one of the big questions about the non-id is where's the 24 frames per second which is common on all cameras it's a really good question when we come into this next one movie digital image stabilization tells the camera to stabilize the footage but to do it in a digital way not an optical way and the way it does this is it crops out you're going to lose resolution when you do it it's not something I generally recommend we have our volume for our headphones very important when we plug a headset in while we're recording video we're gonna do a lot of video shooting on the crash course so something that I use all the time is headphones and we can gesture volume and then some of these other things are what we've already seen there are white balance picture styles which is more important for video because video is a form of JPEG and we want to get it right going into the camera so white balance is more important for video picture styles are more important for video a lot of videographers will turn their contrast and sharpness down and they'll add it back in post and then we have our Auto lighting optimizer so keep that in mind that the Q overlay the quick information is different between the video and stills for live view when you want to record video you are going to push the start and stop button and we'll get this indicator right here that tells us we're recording well scoot this light something else I need to show you is that when we are not in Live View when we get to this dark screen and you push your info button you can get our level you can see that we're not quite level here and I need to tilt the camera see if we can fix that real quick till it turns green so now the camera is level and as we continue to push the info button we get this black I call the black cue screen simply because it's the quick screen for optical shooting it's a little bit different very powerful very fast way to change your camera settings I've loved having the screen especially when I'm shooting in the dark and I want to see my you know I can't see the LCD on the top so let's go through these real quick now to unlock this you'll notice that as I'm trying to tap it's like no you got to press the cue button to unlock it you can press this one or this one and the moment we do we get this orange highlight the way this works is that whatever is highlighted if you rotate your primary or your secondary control wheels you can change that setting directly or you can tap on it and you can come into the menu touch and drag you can touch to jump it's very fast it's very easy to use it's very intuitive once you know how to unlock this and change the settings so going through these real quick we've seen these already we have our mode shutter speed aperture ISO we have our exposure compensation bar we're talking about that in a moment we have our flash exposure compensation you can see that we're getting this little prompt and there's a way to turn this off the menu that I'll show you in just a second we have our Wi-Fi indicator in fact this is driving me crazy already so let's go into the menu and we'll turn those off so those two modes that that are driving me crazy the mode guide every time you turn the mode dial you get it a little prompt so this thing right here to me this it kind of slows my shooting down and I don't want to see that so I'm going to turn that off and then the feature guide I'm also going to turn off so now when I change my mode dial it just changes this is so much nicer and then when we come into the cue button we don't get these props overlaying so this is our Wi-Fi bluetooth again our picture Styles white balance white balance shift which is something I rarely do we have our auto light optimizer custom controls that I'm going to show you more of in just a second we have our focusing mode our focusing cluster we have our metering modes our drive modes and then we have the quality which deals with JPEG raw and then the file size something super cool should be aware of its easiest to access right here is the custom control menu and press set selected this is going to give us a map of the camera it's going to show us the button highlighted on this map and then it's going to tell us how to change the features of that how that button works so if we wanted to go with back button focusing for example and we wanted to remove auto focus from the shutter button we would come in here and select metering I know this is probably a lot for pure beginners just know this is where we can customize different buttons and as we scroll through this you can it's saying hey you don't have anything on your set button what do you want your set button to do when you're shooting and he gives us all these options in the beginning leave your camera and the default it's gonna make it easier as I'm teaching you and after you go through this lesson after you go through the crash course when you get to those shooting options that you do often then you're going to want to come in and tweak these so you can see you can tweak several of the buttons it's very nice and that is the cue screen so let's come back out shutter button we also have our battery life or Wi-Fi activity Bluetooth activity and the number of shots remaining and that is the black cue screen when using the optical viewfinder if we toggle the info button it turns off again real quick let's talk about the touch screen during playback obviously this is going to behave much as a smart phone so you can scroll through your images left and right if you wanted to zoom in you could pinch out we're going to have a sports shooting section on the crash course so we'll talk about all the different settings and different applications if we continue to pinch in we can zoom out and you can see we can get tons of tons of these images and we can just touch and drag it's kind of a much faster way if you're looking for a specific image you can see how small it gets right portrait shoots all that stuff is on the crash course good stuff DoubleTap into it this is the slow sync shooting stuff here this is the portrait session so obviously we're gonna be talking about portraits things of that nature but very intuitive very quick and easy to use get used to pinching in and out depending on how fast you want to jump through you can also use the wheel if you want to continue doing that and that is how you use the touch screen for playback something else I need to point out before we get into the exposure lesson this is absolutely critical is that you come into your deep menu read tab page 2 and you make sure your exposure simulation is set to enable and by default your camera should be set to enable but if it's not none of what I'm about to show you will make any sense at all because this turns off exposure prediction we want the exposure prediction and simulation on disable only when you're using strobe in a studio setting for example at all other times I'm on enable if you haven't gotten your camera definitely this is a lesson you're going to want to have it and it's not going to be nearly as powerful as when you can't do these exercises as I'm walking you through this so grab your camera and we're going to start talking about the exposure settings we talked about a little bit about the modes that were shooting in there's really when you're shooting there's really four modes you should know there is the P mode AV T V and M look it's talking about each of these in just a second there's also the green dummy mode it's designated with a green a in a green box the little plus sign and I refer to this as the dummy mode it's literally the camera is going to be making all of the decisions for you with the exception of your quality maybe your flash and get these little you know these little things that you can do with your filters you didn't buy this camera to treat it like you know a smartphone this is a very powerful tool so the advice that I give in the beginning is to really focus on these four modes P TV AV and M before we get into this absolutely make sure that you are not on auto ISO I want you to turn your ISO to like 400 maybe 800 auto ISO we'll talk about near the end this stuff we want it turned off otherwise you will not be able to see the very important things I'm about to show you now the easiest way for me to explain this is to talk about aperture priority mode first in aperture priority mode we determine the aperture watch so I'm going to take my primary finger number one and I'm going to put it up here on the primary selector this is why I call it the primary selector and you're going to notice that as I rotate that wheel the aperture is changing aperture setting is changing right so your primary finger changes the primary setting now our 90 d is giving us an exposure preview it is telling us how bright or how dark the image is going to be before we take it and that's what the word exposure means it means brightness it's just a fancy word for brightness so the question you should be asking yourself is that as you are changing the aperture if I'm making the aperture wider or then I'm making the aperture smaller why isn't this image changing brightness the very curious thing and we can find that answer out by tapping the shutter button when we tap the shutter button we can see the shutter speed and when we rotate the aperture control wheel which is our primary setting we can see what's happening is that the camera is changing the shutter speed in the background it is compensating for the changes in aperture to give an even exposure and that is the heart of the matter with aperture priority we choose the aperture the camera chooses the shutter speed now a very important thing that you are going to notice as you are shooting is sometimes you're going to take a picture and it's either going to be too dark or it's going to be too bright so let's say you want to make the image a little bit brighter the short answer is you're going to touch on this exposure compensation bar and we can push over one little click maybe two maybe three let me show you the difference between an even exposure something like that and now let's turn this up to one when I play those back this is the even exposure and this is the brighter exposure and that is the short answer so if you want to change your images to be brighter you would want to move this little tick mark to the right you can see this little green tick mark moving up so now it's way bright if this is the only thing that you come away from on this video you are well on your way to becoming a great photographer because this is one of the most used skill sets you will ever have as a photographer typically I don't bump it up that much it's usually one little tick or maybe two little ticks and I'm making the image brighter right let's say hypothetically that we wanted to make an image darker well we would just go in the opposite direction let's go to negative one take a picture so you can see when we play these back this was the even exposure this is a little bit brighter this was a little bit darker let's say we want it we want to go even darker than this okay no problem just turn it down all the way to negative three take that picture and you can see how dark it is so what I recommend is pausing the video in practicing this right now take an even exposure come in to your exposure control wheel turn it up a little bit a little bit brighter turn it down take those three images and compare them it's a very important skill set there is a longer answer to this that I'm going to explain and I'm going to give you some very critical pieces of information that you're going to have to make second nature in the beginning I always tell my students almost all of them start off in aperture priority mode this is where you should you should begin to learn one thing you want to keep an eye on is to make sure your shutter speed is always at least one sixtieth of a second if your shutter speed is slower than one sixtieth of a second your image has a chance of being blurry because as you shoot with long exposures the camera is moving a little bit and this is the bane of beginning photographers is it why are all my pictures so blurry almost always you probably use the slow shutter speed so this is something I'm always peeking at is the shutter speed when I am shooting an aperture priority mode something that's a bit of a shock is when I tell my students when I'm shooting professionally in an on studio environment almost always on aperture priority mode exactly like I just showed you something like that and the reason is sometimes these shooting conditions change you'll be in a church and it's dark here comes the bride and groom now we're in the lobby and now we're outside well those are three different lighting conditions and I don't want to have to fumble around my shutter speed I'm going to let the camera take control same thing when I'm shooting sports I Dow in my aperture and I sneak a peek for sports typically though I like this to be one five hundredth or one one thousandth or one mm of a second now something that is very critical about how this works is the camera is also measuring how much light comes into the camera I'm gonna prove it you should prove it to yourself too why don't you take your hand tap that shutter button and slowly move your hand in front of the camera and watch the shutter speed change can you see that so what's what's happening is the camera is saying hey I notice it's got it's gotten dark in here and it wants to use a long shutter speed to take care of that in the moment I pull my hand away it goes back to a fast shutter speed so what's happening is the camera is constantly measuring how much light is coming through the lens so this is the philosophy of use when we're talking about shooting with aperture priority mode when I use those terms philosophy of use that means this is something you really should focus on learning in making second nature now I want to talk about the longer answer for exposure compensation you are going to notice that there are three tick marks for every one unit see that each of those tick marks represent one third of a single stop you're probably wondering what a stop is we'll talk about it on the crash course in the beginner section a single stop is twice the amount of light as the setting before it so what's happening here we have this diamond home plate which is an even exposure but when I turn this up to one we're telling the camera is camera we want twice the amount of light coming in so the camera knows that we're giving it some basic instruction and at this point it would shoot all the exposures with a shutter speed that would make it once brighter and that's the same if we go to two stops which would be four times the amount of light and three stops and so on and so forth and it also works in the opposite direction we're shooting at home plate even if we go to negative one stops we're telling the camera we want half as much light and it should use a shutter speed that is twice as fast and again we could do the same thing if we go to negative two stops and that's why it's getting darker we can prove this mathematically taking one one hundred and twenty-fifth plus one 125th of a second that gives us to one hundred twenty fifths which if we simplify that it's about one sixtieth of a second so that's what's happening twice as long shutter speed so now I'm gonna ask you if we go to plus two what would you expect the shutter speed to be what is twice as long as one sixtieth what we can do the math one sixtieth plus one sixtieth is two sixtieths and we simplify that should be one thirtieth there it is I want you to do the last one on your own what is twice as long as one thirtieth of a second if you said one fifteenth of a second you were absolutely correct this is something that I struggled with for a long time and you're getting it in your first day of lessons you're way ahead of where I was it took me a good year year and a half to figure this out way back in 2003 so let's go in the opposite direction 1 125th of a second we want to shutter speed that's twice as fast twice the speed faster if you said 1 252 the second absolutely correct and by now I'm sure you're getting the hang of it should be 1 5 hundredths and the last one obviously should be one one thousandth of a second oh it's close one of those things where it's metering a little bit darker it should be one one thousandth so that is the heart of the matter when we're talking about exposure compensation this and there's one in the viewfinder too when you look through the viewfinder you'll see one as well it works the same way when you're shooting looking through the viewfinder you can change it by tapping on your shutter button and just rotating the secondary control wheel that's why we call it secondary your primary changes the main one and your thumb changes the secondary setting so what's happening this will become second nature to you as you continue to shoot and improve and get more experience you'll know how to use the modes you'll know by experience how much to shift it by and that is probably like 60 to 70% of your shooting right there okay in terms of changing exposure aperture priority mode just changing those tick marks so now that we know that let's take a look at this in shutter priority mode t.v mode time value what we're telling the camera is that we want to determine with our primary finger the time the shutter speed and as the secondary control the camera is going to designate the aperture so here's my primary finger so now I'm changing the shutter speed tap the shutter button and we can see in the aperture is what's changing now there's something very interesting that happened here there's a couple things you'll notice it respected it maintained our exposure compensation we'll try to turn that back but there's something else really interesting that happened let's pretend you were shooting your son's sporting event and you need a very fast shutter speed maybe one 500th or maybe even one one thousandth of a second and you're going to notice that the screen is getting very dark where's the exposure compensation Canon 90 D we spent all this money on you cut us out if we tap the shutter button you're going to see that the aperture is blinking when you see this what the camera is saying is that what we have dialed in exceeds the physical ability of the lens to match it to it can't open wider than 2.8 that's what it's complaining it's crying it's like it can't do it and you're going to have very dark images we were too picture yep yeah pretty dark that's a problem so I want you to think about this if you were in this situation what would you do if you said bump your ISO up you are absolutely correct and then as I bump this up to becoming brighter and brighter and now it's kind of maintaining exposure so if I come back out now we're at F three point two so this is going to happen to you a lot you're going to be in a shooting situation where you need a certain shutter speed and the lens can't open wide enough you're gonna bump your ISO up here's the drawback with ISO I'll demonstrate it I'm gonna turn this way up might as well talk about ISO real quick I'm just gonna turn it all the way up for the sake of demonstration we're gonna take a picture of those blinds and I'm going to zoom in let's play that and zoom in so I'm looking at the blinds those are playing clean blinds and I don't know if you can see it but when you look at this edge here on the blind you can see it's really grainy and that is the trade-off of ISO is that as you turn your ISO up you're going to get more grain something else I want to show you is that as you're playing images back you can also push the info button and get information about your images shutter speed aperture ISO here's our histogram some of our other settings file size very nice so now let's repeat this with a lower ISO well egg will go 400 and obviously it's dark so we're gonna change shutter speed we just want to see what's going on with the ISO well zoom in look at that lion again see how that's a little out of focus but see how much cleaner that is this is the grainy one can you see all the grain in there how moist the trade-off with ISO is that the higher the ISO is the more brighter your image will be but you also have more grain so the question becomes where's the limit it really depends on what you're shooting I've shot portraits at 6400 and sometimes even 12 800 it really depends on the colors in where you are presenting it if you're presenting it on a smartphone it's usually not a problem if you're boiling this up to be a poster that could be a problem so the short answer is you you're going to want to use the lowest ISO possible you know depending on your lens and your shutter speed sometimes you have to bump it up that's just life that's part of learning how to do all this stuff just for the sake of quick demonstration you can see that when I tap the shutter button the aperture is moving see it moving around and when we come in to our exposure compensation bar you can see that the shutter speed stays fixed and the aperture is what's changing so shutter priority is the opposite of what aperture priority does we dial in the shutter speed and the camera dials in the aperture and it can make adjustments for exposure compensation let's talk about program mode program mode is sort of like the dummy mode but it allows us to have exposure compensation changes we can change our eye so we can you know determine our focusing modes it's like painting taking the training wheels off a little bit if you want to say that when we tap the shutter button and we rotate our primary selector you can see we get different combinations of shutter speeds and apertures that we can scroll through we can also use our exposure compensation using the secondary control wheel it's getting brighter and it's making adjustments to both the shutter speed and the aperture P mode has its time in place and I believe that time in place is when we put a speed light on when we put a flash on the camera P mode is a good place to start because it becomes the handheld mode and the camera is going to ensure that we're using a relatively fast shutter speed a mistake a lot of beginners use on Canon cameras is when they put the flash on they're shooting an aperture priority mode which uses longer shutter speeds with flash and a lot of their pictures are blurry so the short answer is if you're using a flash start off in P mode if you're not using a flash start off a nap priority mode so real quick let's talk about the manual mode manual mode is awesome it's amazing because it allows us to have complete control over the camera this is why I love it you know smart phones frustrate me because I don't have complete control over things like the shutter speed unless I have a special app for it or something but in the manual mode we dial in the shutter speed we dial in the aperture and unless we're on auto ISO we dial in the ISO you'll notice that the exposure compensation bar is no longer available to us can't even select it and the reason is there is no exposure compensation in manual mode we get an exposure preview and if we change something like the shutter speed you can see the indicator moving you would see something similar in the viewfinder and what this is it's telling us how under or how overexposed the image is going to be this has becomes a light meter in manual mode so manual mode is we have complete control of over the camera and the camera is not helping us with any exposure settings I personally love to shoot in manual mode when I have the time or if I'm shooting in a studio with strobes almost always manual if I am rushed and have very limited amount of time and I'm going through different lighting conditions almost always on aperture priority mode and I only really use aperture priority or manual mode in all of my still shooting so that's something you should be working towards and that's why I want you to start off on aperture priority mode is because once you learn this you're gonna have it for the rest of your life I want to make a side note about the philosophy of use for auto ISO a lot of people love auto ISO it's basically turning control over the ISO over to the camera in certain settings this is really a lifesaver and one of those settings would be something like indoor sports photography where you would go in there and you need maybe a shutter speed of one 500th or one one thousandth of a second you might be have your widest aperture on here and the lighting conditions made change from shot to shot maybe like MMA or even basketball you know depending on the angle and so as a sports photographer you do not want to have to change your shutter speed between every shot you want to focus on the action you want to focus on the composition and what's happening in the game turning it over to auto ISO is awesome because the camera will start making the adjustments itself and it has improved over the years so there are situations I do recommend auto ISO I just don't recommend it to beginners because they tend to lean on it a little too much as a crutch if you can learn how to dial in your ISOs manually it's gonna give you a lot of benefit over the long run and then once you become more experienced you're going to decide whether you want auto ISO or to dial it in manually so that is an overview of the shooting modes how to change your exposure which is image brightness we talked about how the camera compensates we talked about the philosophy of use in the exposure compensation I know it's a lot of information and I hope you enjoyed it let's talk about white balance short answer on this is if you are a pure beginner it's going to be a lot easier for you to set this to auto white balance let the camera handle it you have a lot of other things to worry about like exposure control and composition and focusing after a certain amount of time however you are going to notice that in certain lighting conditions your images take on maybe more of a magenta or a blue or a little bit more yellow kind of tone and in those cases you're probably going to want to adjust your white balance white balance is more important to set correctly when you're shooting JPEG because when we're shooting raw that color information is saved within the raw file and we can easily change it when we're shooting JPEG a lot of the color information is thrown away and it only saves that which we're using so when you see this if you want to check auto white balance you're gonna press the Q button and you're gonna see it in the top right hand column aw B stands for auto white balance sometimes we will see these white information little indicators that's telling us a button to press if we don't want to touch on the screen and in this case it would be this far right top button and when we push that we have the ability to shift between an ambient light balance which is a little bit more yellow and then a white priority I like the white priority a little bit more but in the beginning it's not gonna matter it's not that important when you start seeing these color shifts then you're going to want to become more aware of the light conditions you're shooting in and the idea on this is that the camera wants us to set the icon to whatever environment we're shooting in so if we're shooting in daylight we would choose the day the Sun icon if we were shooting in the shade we would choose the shade icon if we were shooting in cloudy conditions and so on and so forth and we have tungsten light you can see how blue it is we have fluorescent lights almost purple we have flash which a lot of people don't know should be the same as Sun 5600 Kay and it's probably little bit too much information we have custom white balance and we have our Kelvin setting so I'm trying to give you the short answer the short answer if you're pure beginner stick with auto white balance as you become more intermediate and then advanced choose the icon that you're shooting in or if you snow do something's off try to select the right icon but I also want to talk about this guy right here which is our custom white balance custom white balance means that we can take a picture of something neutral it can be gray it can be white we take a picture of it and we tell the camera this is white and the camera will then take that information and apply to the white balance very important to note that in order to use this correctly we have to come into the custom white balance setting on tab number three on page three of our red tab so the way this works is we're going to take a picture of something that's pure white these blinds are pure white we're going to come into the menu custom white balance and we are going to select the image that we took a picture of that should be color neutral I've done it with brides dresses I've done it with tablecloths I've done it with wall the ceilings sometimes you just need something white right so we come in here we're gonna hit set use this white balance data for the custom white balance okay and then we set the camera to this icon which we're telling it this is our custom white balance setting and this should be pure white and as I see it on the monitor it looks perfect this is ideal for mixed lighting conditions maybe have a little bit of tungsten maybe a little bit of fluorescent maybe a little bit you know you know sunlight coming in bouncing so it just really depends on what you're doing but when you're custom white balancing it's typically with mixed lighting conditions getting your white balance dialed in correctly is going to be more important for videographers because they're shooting with a form of JPEG it's not a lot of information in the file but that is how you set your custom white balance in the last setting is Kelvin Kelvin is awesome I use it all the time if we want to set the color temperature we press this outside button and now we can scroll up or down there is a philosophy of use to this and then there's a long answer and a short answer the short answer is every light source has its own signature temperature in the case of sunlight it's about 50 200 to 5600 Kelvin now as I turn this down you're going to notice that the screen is going to get blue and this is counterintuitive because very low Kelvin temperature light sources are more yellow and what's happening is the camera is adding blue to balance it out if we were to go in the opposite direction and go higher the screen would turn more and more yellow the truth of the matter is high Kelvin temperature light sources are more blue and what's happening is the camera is counteracting it so it can get a little confusing but suffice to say every light source has its own Kelvin in the case of daylight 5600 in the case of tungsten light it can be 32 to 34 hundred Kelvin some we'll get this mix sliding where it's you know between 4,000 and 5,000 it really depends on the light source I know it's probably a little bit too much information suffice it to say Kelvin allows us to dial it in specifically and that's a quick overview on white balance I wanted to talk and show you a demonstration of the metering modes which is interesting because we have a dedicated button for metering modes just behind the primary selector if you push it you get our four different metering modes the easiest way for me to explain this is to demonstrate the spot metering mode first I have a single square selected but you'll notice that in spot metering mode we have this circle and I am an aperture priority mode I want to make sure this is on so you guys can see this in as always the camera is is measuring the light coming in to them to the lens and we can see we get a shutter speed of 1 250th of a second for right so watch what happens when I move this circle over the light do you see how the shutter speed changed to be even faster once it wants a shutter speed faster than 1/8 thousandth of a second in the moment we move that circle outside the light it goes back to a slower shutter speed so what's happening here is that we are telling the camera to sample light within this circle and that's what the spot metering mode does it samples from about 2% of the viewfinder and we're telling the camera to change the exposure settings based on a specific shape in the center of our viewfinder the other metering modes work similarly if we were to go with a partial metering we get a larger circle so when I come back over it's the same thing is this the bigger area and when we go to something like Center weighted average shutter button we can see that the location where it happens is in a bigger area and then finally we have evaluated metering which is a general-purpose metering mode if you're just getting started this makes a lot of sense just keep in mind that if you're shooting heavily backlit subjects so if you were shooting a portrait and there's a lot of light coming in you may want to change your metering mode to either partial or spot metering again in the beginning it can be very complex something else I want to point out is that if you're using a single focusing square often that can be tied in to the spot metering mode do you see how when I jumped onto the light and that's a very handy thing if you if you're using a lot of single focusing squares so even if I'm in the evaluative metering mode and you have a single focusing square this is what's happening is that single square is acting as the spot metering mode but suffice it to say in the beginning if you're just getting started evaluated metering is the way to go let's talk about the canon 90 DS focusing systems and to prevent any confusion I have to emphasize there is the optical focusing system which uses a focusing array located underneath the mirror which is ideal for sports shooting fast-moving subjects and this is completely different than the live view focusing system using the back monitor I will be creating a separate individual video for the optical focusing system check the link in the description hit that subscribe button in the notification bell if you want to be updated when it's posted if it's ready just tech check the table of contents and we'll put the link for the video in there keeping them separately is going to make this a lot easier the very powerful focusing systems lots of technical things there is some overlap but let's treat them separately we're going to talk about using live view so we're going to be using the focusing systems that are built in to the sensor we're not using that focusing array underneath the mirror so when we're looking at our cameras focusing systems the easiest way to break this down is into the how the when and the where of the camera focuses how when and where and if you think about it that way it's going to be easy so the first question is how does the camera focus by default when you get your camera out of the box if you push your shutter button halfway down it engages the cameras focusing systems and when we push shutter button down all the way it takes the picture pretty straightforward you will also notice we have this AF on button it's a thumb button that will also engage the cameras focusing systems second question is when is the camera focusing this deals with the cameras focusing modes and to access our cameras focusing modes we're going to push the far left button on top of the cameras as AF and when we push that we get two options one shot in servo let's talk about one shot first so one shot basically means that when we push a shutter button halfway down and we hold it halfway down you notice we're gonna beep see those green boxes as long as we hold the shutter button halfway down we can move and rotate the camera and the focus will not change it stays locked pushing it down all the way we'll take the picture now when you're looking through the viewfinder this can be a very valuable technique it's referred to as recomposing maybe you'll get a focus lock on a subject and you want to make it more aesthetically pleasing in the frame every photographer should know how to do this get a focus lock and recompose by holding that shutter button halfway down now typically when we look through the viewfinder we will also see a little green dot indicates focus lock servo is a little bit different in that the camera will focus over and over and over again this is ideal for sports shooting because we have moving subjects that may be running towards us or away and even in the time that we push the shutter button halfway down the subject can change its position which would change its focus requirement so this is why we get blue squares blue indicates a continuous servo focus so this focus is happening over and over and over again even if we push shutter button halfway down now when I tapped on the screen I can focus by touching this jumps back to the one shot pushing halfway down with a shutter button engages the servo or the continuous focus this is better for obviously moving subjects your kids are running around if you are dealing with adults and you want you know they're posing and they can hold a pose then one shot which probably would probably be better so you can see how the focusing mode would change whether we're dealing with a still subject something that does not move or something that is moving and needs to be refocused continually that is the win one-shot deals with once servo deals with many times over I'm going to turn it back to one shot so we've talked about the how we've talked about the win now we are going to talk about the where and this deals with our cameras focusing clusters these little boxes that we see and I have these targets up here to help us so I can show you the different clusters and move them around we can access our focus in clusters by pressing the auto focus square selector button I also call it the cluster button just behind the shutter button and as we push this you can see I'm pushing it repeatedly it is toggling through four different options from left to right in my opinion at least looking through the viewfinder the most useful is a single point so we'll talk about it using live view a single focusing point is a single square and in live view we can touch in different places along the view finder from top to bottom almost from side to side just list a little bit but definitely from top to bottom this is incredibly useful because even in the optical viewfinder we are limited to a certain amount of area and there are times that you may want to focus outside of that area you can flip it over and do so here obviously it depends on what we're doing but most of the time I'm usually shooting with a single square for portraits landscapes just about everything is almost always single square toggling the clustered button again we are given the option of let's come over to spot essentially the same thing it's just a smaller more precise square you'll notice if we want to reset to the center we can push in the joystick to the middle we could also do some fine-tuning by using the joystick and moving it around let's take a look at zone zone gives the camera permission to look within a certain region you'll notice it's looking for the target the tripod it's typically looking for an area of contrast that's where we see it lining up so zone is obviously a bigger square this would be useful for you know things that are quickly moving maybe maybe birds in flight that aren't too far away trying to get them in there and again it's looking for contrast so our last focusing cluster is we have you can barely see it's a face and a tracking when we get to that icon if we press the info button you can see that I can toggle eye detection versus face detection so there's actually several different modes in here and we'll talk about each of them real quick if we do not touch the screen anywhere and we push shutter button halfway down you'll notice the camera is focusing on the tripod and on this other marker over here essentially what's happening is the camera is looking for an area of contrast woods saying where is the greatest contrast if it's similar it'll often pick the one closest to the camera that's what's going on it's looking in the full-frame contrast closest to the camera so you'll notice that as I'm touching on the screen it's just giving me these boxes but if I touch on an area and then I press AF on either with either the shutter button or the F on button we get this tracking mode and with one shot it is predicting the motion of the target it's not focusing on it it's just following it so this ability you track once once we engage the tracking it's just following the subject we know this because if I take the pen put it here and I engage the tracking and I move the pen away it stays out of focus so it's not changing the focus it just tracks there is a feature that we can turn on I don't recommend having it on most of the time because it's going to create some problems where it's always focusing when you don't want it to it's called continuous autofocus so if I bring the pen back out and we put the tracking on it you can see it's starting to track it now I tricked it it's not perfect but now the focus is following it that's just a trick to have in your tool toolbox if you want it it's it's more useful in video and there's a different way to do that which I'll demonstrate so that is the tracking in this mode now you also see that we have this face so I'm gonna hang up a face target and I will walk you through those examples something you'll notice about this face cluster with tracking is that when you start pointing the camera at a human face with that turned on what's going to happen is we will get these four corners around that human face it's tracking the human face it isn't necessarily focusing on the human face but it and you push your shutter button halfway down it is going to get focused lock on that face now obviously we have to see a certain amount of space the further away we zoom out that face will get smaller and smaller and at some point it will stop working now having said all that there is a very important tool here it says info eye and when we push the info button you can see that we're now getting eye lock it's tracking the eye the reason why that is important is that when we are shooting portraits with a very wide aperture 1.8 1.4 sometimes 1.2 we have a very shallow depth of field and it is difficult to get it in focus we may have an eye over you know on the corner the camera will get that focus lock on the eyeball it's a game changer ever since I saw it the first time I was like wow that is amazing so if you're shooting portraits but the very wide aperture this is probably a better tool than using the optical viewfinder and we will talk about those examples on the crash course so that is eye detection and you can always jump back to face detection by pushing the info button so we've talked about the how we've talked about the wind we've talked about the wear which is the focus in clusters and there's actually a few more tools I want to show you just in live view for stills and we'll take a look at the video one too well you should definitely be aware of you see it all the time in Hollywood movies is the ability to pull focus typically this is done with a number of gears and wheels and you need a person whose job is dedicated to change the focusing it's the first assistant camera operator and his job is to really move the lens ring that's how it's done in Hollywood but because we have a touchscreen in a focusing system that will react to it if you are on a single focusing square you can just simply touch on the monitor so this is pulling focus obviously we would turn the beep off so it wouldn't be annoying if you have a quiet lens this is a very powerful tool because we can change the focus by just touching on the screen again we'll be covering this on the 90 d crash course some of the other techniques involved so let's talk about manual zoom focusing typically we just touch on the monitor - right to zoom you'll notice I'm changing where the boxes I'm going to flip the lens switch from auto focus to manual over here we have a zoom icon next to this button and when we push it we are zooming in where the square was last was and we can use our manual focusing ring to get tack sharp focus depending on where we were looking and that's referred to as manual zoom focusing I do it a lot for landscape photography when I want to focus one third into the frame we can push the zoom button again and get 10x magnification pretty awesome tool there is yet another amazing feature to access it we're gonna come into the menu and we are going to look for manual peaking settings manual focus peaking settings so manual focus peaking essentially means that we will only see this in manual focusing you don't see it in auto focus levels high the colors we have red yellow and blue I'm gonna point out what this is you can see it on the edge of the frame here what this does is that as we manually focus we're going to get a red overlay where there is a high degree of contrast you can barely see it in my eyes and in the blinds and that is going to tell us where the greatest contrast in the images it should be around the point of greatest sharpness and this is referred to as peaking focus there is one negative about this is that as we zoom in we lose the peaking so if you don't see it when you zoom in at the time of this recording it is normal you can only see it when you're zoomed out this is a better tool for videography we'll be talking about some of those focusing features in just a minute so I'm gonna flip my lens switch back over to autofocus because I want to talk about back button focusing back button focusing means that we're removing the focusing from our halfway shutter button depression and we're using focus only with our AF on button the way we set this up is we need to come out of live view we're gonna come into our cue screen highlight the camera icon we target we mentioned it earlier and we're going to select the shutter button typically the shutter button will meter and focus and what we're going to do is remove the focusing from it so the camera only meters when we push that shutter button halfway down now once we do this you got to remember you did this otherwise you may think your cameras broken is that when we push shirt or button halfway down no focusing happens nothing's happening it's only when we push the AF on button that the focusing systems are engaged when we do the sports shooting lesson on the crash course I'll give you a demonstration of this but typically the idea is that you can be shooting a moving subject we'll pretend the pole as the moving subject moving moving moving and I'm just engaging the focus and if my subject stops I can lift up my thumb and the focusing will not change and I can recompose and I can shoot in an inch a more interesting composition if I had it left on my shutter button the camera would be focusing on the background not on my subject so this is why it's a little bit more desirable to get into the habit of focusing with your thumb is that you can disengage recompose fire away and the the focal plane should not have changed too much and that is why sports focusers love back button focusing now I'm gonna change it back because otherwise I would forget and it would drive me crazy so in regards to live you still shooting the how is the halfway shutter button depression or the AF on button the win is either one shot or servo depending on if your subjects moving and the where deals with the different clusters it's a lot to remember again just think of how when and where the question you'll probably have is how does it change when we are talking about video shooting so we're gonna flip this over to video shooting and there is something that's a little bit different in here which is the servo autofocus completely different ballgame because this is going to update the focusing in the same way a servo focusing would with a halfway shutter button depression so let's put it on let's put it on this guy right here and I'm going to come in and select tracking I'm going to push a shutter button to engage that and what's going to happen is the camera is going to track that and focus it so even if we zoom in you can see the focus is being updated zoom out and for video shooters this is a dream come true because the camera is doing so much of the work for us it's focusing so you can have a subject walking towards the camera you know talking in the camera is going to do the job of the first AC it's going to update it automatically if you do not want that just such sir Oh AF and that will turn off you want it on again there it is again we can use this with different clusters if we wanted to go with a single square no problem again RAC RAC zooming we can track anything within an area you can hear the lens motor motor changing so anything that that square is on cameras going to focus it's updating and that's what servo AF does for you again remember that only works in video mode the workaround for stills mode is to come into the menu and turn on continuous AF servo AF is going to work with the other clusters as well even eye detection I found that when I'm tracking moving subjects usually face detection is enough unless you're you know shooting with a really wide aperture lens but it's an awesome feature canons dual pixel autofocus which is what's making this happen is elite it's one of the best I think Sony and Fuji are getting pretty close but Canon has always been fantastic at tracking moving subjects for video and it really takes the amount of work needed to make a great-looking video off the shoulders of the videographer you know in the past you need two or three guys to do it totally feasible to do it with one person now so that is your focusing systems for live view we've covered a lot of information again keep an eye out for the optical focusing video that will be coming out shortly let's take a look at the deep menu system to access our deep menu we're going to press the menu button and you're going to notice that we have these different colored tabs on the top the colors actually do mean different things red is for shooting blue is for playback purple is for our Wi-Fi settings the yellow wrench is our camera settings we have our customizations and then we have our my menu tab which is customizable most of the good stuff most of the good and important stuff in regards to shooting are going to be found in the red tab very important that you'll notice just below the red tab we have these numbers those are different pages within each tab so the red tab and I can navigate also by pushing on the directional pad here you can go also use the primary selector you can also use the joystick but I think if you can learn to use the edge of your finger like a corner of a finger and if you can get precise this is the fastest way to navigate canons menu systems are by far the best in terms of ease of use usability they're just the best out there you can navigate quickly you can jump it's easy to keep track of where things are in this portion of the lesson I'm going to walk you through the most important things I'm going to make recommendations in regards to settings I'm going to tell you the critical things I'm not going to cover everything because there are many lessons that require hands-on shooting for example flash control we have a flash lesson on the crash course we're all show you how to use your flash there's many others but I will point these out as we go along image quality is very important this is where we designate the type of file we're recording whether it's raw or JPEG raw is on the top here we also have this C raw which is a compressed or a compact raw and we also have our JPEGs which are different actual sizes something to keep in mind is that RAW files retain a lot of information and therefore the file size is huge and therefore if you're shooting with raw you're going to fill up your memory card faster for example if you're shooting sports and you're shooting you know hundreds or thousands of images it's gonna fill up pretty quick so there are times you may just want to shoot JPEG it really depends on what you're doing my rule of thumb is that if it's a page shoot its raw and this is going to allow me to things such as white balance color contrast you have a lot more latitude with RAW files if I'm shooting an event and I'm gonna have you know potentially thousands of images it's usually JPEG so let me walk you through what some of these numbers and icons mean the 32m refers to the total number of megapixels that were capturing with our sensor obviously we have a 13 megapixel sensor and this is telling us that we're using all of those pixels to create the image and these next two numbers tell us the dimensions of the image six thousand nine hundred and sixty pixels wide four thousand six hundred and forty pixels tall and again when we see the brackets that tells us how many shots we can take on this particular setting this icon here is the primary control wheel and what it's saying is you can change your raw settings by rotating the primary control wheel we can change our JPEG settings by pushing to the left and right on the arrows something you'll notice is that when you select raw watch what happens to the number of shots remaining just under nine hundred I go with smooth L watch what happens between the difference of smooth L and jagged L twice as many images now the interesting thing about this is even though they're JPEG and they're smaller even though they're the same resolution this one is half the file size and what's happening is something called compression that's where the processor essentially looks at two adjacent pixels and says you know what you guys are close enough to be the same thing and it assigns them the same color value but these letters here l refers to large and when we hit M watch what happens to the dimensions of the image 15 new mega pixels in the actual pixels changed so this is a smaller image smaller file size as we continue to go down jagged m take 10,000 images and then we get down to small you can see the dimensions are even smaller with 8.1 megapixels for s1 and s2 is three point eight megapixels so just under or megapixels that would be something that maybe you'd want to use for the internet but again it really depends on what you're doing in the advice I usually give to my students to start off with jpg jagged or smooth l whichever one you want I think jagged L is fine for most typical shooting situations when you get into landscape work and you're doing heavy processing we'll talk about landscape photography in the crash course raw is the way to go mix lighting conditions important paid work all things to keep in mind aspect ratio for the most part an aspect ratio of three by two is going to be plenty it's going to use the whole dimensions of the sensor but if we wanted to go to a 4:3 aspect ratio or sixteen by nine look what happens when we come into Live View is it gives us the cinema aspect ratio this is for a still shooting mode if we wanted to shoot one to one Instagram and it would take a square image again my advice go three three by two you can crop it and post if you need image review is that when you shoot an image how long how many seconds do you want it to playback for I think twos plenty release shutter without card I have mine on enable some people think there's an internal memory and somehow it's recording you know if you don't have a memory card that's not the case you don't have a memory card it's not saving your images and if you want as a safety you can turn this on to disable lens aberration correction a lot of information but basically what this is doing is when we put Canon lenses on to our 90 D most of those Canon lenses are registered with the camera and the camera has the ability to clean up lens errors like peripheral illumination correction which is another fancy word for been getting us darkening in the corners on very wide angle lenses distortion correction is when things start bowing in or out digital lens optimizer will correct things such as diffraction or low pass filter problems and there's no data for on this lens maybe that's coming have it turned on so something to keep in mind this is what it does I use have it turned on most of the time there's no data for this so I'm going to turn that off and the moment we turn it off chromatic aberration correction diffraction correction this is all good stuff so just keep that in mind flash control so on the crash course we're going to be talking about using your flash we'll talk about using the onboard flash we talked about using a speed light the recommended flash system that I tell my students is the godox TT 685 C it's like a hundred to a hundred and ten dollars on Amazon it's a great flash you can do a lot with it if you get serious and you want to go very high-end you can go with the canon 600d XR t 2s those are pretty expensive but value those goed oxes are hard to beat there's a lot of information about flash typically that lesson is anywhere from 40 minutes to an hour and I'll teach you the basics of shooting with flash on the second page we have something called exposure compensation aiibi the exposure compensation you already know and we can adjust it by you know what I demonstrated earlier this is a little different in that it introduces bracketing which when we rotate our primary selector wheel we get these little tick marks that start breaking off what bracketing does is it tells the camera to take three shots and in this case it is negative two stops even and plus two stops or I'm going to hit okay you can see that we have bracketing here designated so I push the shutter button down three times and we get the three different images in the camera is changing the shutter speed between those shots so if you're in a very high dynamic range situation with lots of shadows and lots of highlights that would be a time to shoot with auto exposure bracketing we can if I'm on manual modes let's move this over to aperture priority mode and when I do that I can now shift that bracket in different directions doesn't like it on manual mode and when you're done you're going to rotate your primary selector wheel back and your into your regular shooting mode again ISO speed settings the first one is is your ISO setting it's the same as changing it on the top of your camera we have a range we can choose from if we wanted to go I don't know leave it at 200 or higher our camera will shoot at a maximum of fifty one thousand two hundred ISO it's obviously the supergranny but if you wanted to turn that on we could we'd hit OK when we are using auto ISO this question is asking what is the range you want it to fall between so if you found this you know it's a little too noisy at twelve thousand eight hundred you would leave it at 6400 and this tells the camera to stay within these limits minimum shutter speed is that when we are using modes such as program or aperture priority mode we can come in here and specifically tell it the slowest shutter speed that we want it to use for beginners I don't really recommend this Auto is fine for now but if you wanted to really lock it out if using long shutter speeds you can come in here and you know select one sixtieth or one 125th of a second leave it there for now I go Auto light optimizer again is a contrast adjustment it's disabled in manual and bulb modes will talk about bulb in just a second I think standard is fine for the beginning i I know some friends who turn it off completely again this deals mostly with JPEGs and standard is good if you're just getting started highlight tone priority is something I leave turned off what this does is it gives the camera permission to basically shift in favor of the highlights so if it thinks it's going to overexpose something very very bright the camera will make a very slight shift to retain those highlights and I don't like it because I like to understand what's going on with the basic camera settings and I think this is a good place to start if you're a pure beginner as well the metering timer deals with how long our shatter speed and aperture show watch it will turn off after eight seconds we've a song long enough there it goes that's all it is it's a timer that allow us to determine how long our exposure settings are showing so this last guy right here exposure simulation this because of our live you preview if you are not in live you a couple of these guys are gonna disappear watch this tapping my shutter button let me get out of live view I'm gonna press the menu button again and now we only have four of those menu items press live you press the menu button and here we get all six so keep that in mind if you don't see certain menu items it may be because you're in a certain mode the camera doesn't like exposure simulation by default when you get the camera it should be enabled if this is not turned on and you go through the modes lesson this is gonna be a nightmare none of that will make sense you have to make sure that this is on enable before we talk about the modes and the exposure what this means is the camera is going to give us a prediction of how bright the image is going to be before we take the shot so when it's on and I'm changing let's say my exposure compensation you can see it's getting brighter right well if we turn that off disable it which is something you should do when you're using flash in a studio setting with multiple strobes nothing changes okay so that is really what it does and we can also assign it to the depth of field preview button so it will only work when we push that lent that little button it's on this side of the camera where the grip is right next to the lens mount push that and it will engage should engage live you never use it this is almost always on enable white balance is the same as selecting it from our other menus this is just where we choose it I'm gonna hit okay this again this is where we designate what we want to use is our custom white balance source talked about that in the white balance lesson white balance shift in bracket allows us to shift the tint in the hue of our white balance towards blue green Amber or magenta I almost never do this for stills in some video occasions I'll shift it over to blue just depends but I don't do this with Canon cam because the colorscience on canon cameras are in my opinion did you still need to be corrected as much so short answer on this is if you're a beginner do not worry about it as you become more advanced if you're not getting the most out of your white balance you could start tweaking and experimenting with that color space the vast majority of us unless we're shooting for our magazine magazine would require Adobe RGB mm almost everyone else is using srgb picture styles again if you're a pure beginner just stick with auto or standard picture styles have to do with the recipe that the cameras computer is using to create JPEGs for example and you might want to start playing with this once you start getting a graphs of you know exposure and focusing and you want to start taking a deeper look take a look at portrait when you are shooting flesh tones watch how it changes the color of flesh in JPEGs or in landscape you're gonna see more you know blues and greens are gonna be a little bit more vivid about fine detail neutral and there's many other settings we can come in and customize this when you are ready to customize you would hit the info detail set you can adjust things such as sharpness contrast saturation color tone but again the short answer on this is if you're a beginning or intermediate photographer don't worry about it for now some videographers will definitely come in here and they will go more neutral and they'll turn the contrast and the sharpness down but again don't worry about it for now if you're just getting started page for the red tab long exposure noise reduction anything over one second is considered a long exposure and you can have that on auto so it'll kick in if you if you shoot you know for more than one second at a time just know that it once this is on it's going to take longer for the camera to write the file to the memory card because it's cleaning it up so I turn it off just for my own sanity high ISO noise reduction medium is good for most general purposes if you're just getting started I think that's a good place dust delete data this is something that I have never used on any canon camera the idea of this is it allows us to use software to clean up dust specks that will get on our sensor it is going to happen and I have a very detailed video showing you how to clean your sensor on your 90d the tools that I use why I use them I have used just about everything out there and there's some that will actually mess your sensor up so it's worth watching I don't ever use the dust delete data shutter mode most of the time if I'm shooting stills I like to be shooting on mechanical and the reason is when we shoot an electronic we can start to see artifacts from LEDs so if I have electronic determined and I come in to my standard shooting mode you don't see it right now bump this up you're gonna start seeing stuff like this so I shot an electronic shot it was silent but look at the banding that we get so alternating current is shooting at a hundred and twenty Hertz which means it's it's flickering on and off at a hundred and twenty times per second so what this means is that we're capturing with our electronic shutter some of this and the way you get around this in electronic shutter mode is to shoot at one sixtieth of a second so if you see that with LED lights that's what's going on it's silent which is cool it's still there a little bit it looks like it wants us to use maybe one fiftieth of a second but that's that's one of the reasons why I don't really like electronic mode it's still there wow that's crazy typically that resolves it so what I typically like to do is just shoot in mechanical mode if you're shooting outdoors electronic mode is going to allow us to shoot at one sixteen thousandth of a second so much faster shutter speed just know that if you're panning with your subject you might get the jello effect it's like this stretchy artifact and so for that reason I don't really shoot with electronic electronic first curtain means that the first shutter curtain is just an electronic capture followed by a mechanical curtain some people like that hybrid the for sport shooting I think mechanical is the way to go live you shoot allows us to enable live view shooting turn it off we will not go into live view it's basically a safety feature and these next two multiple exposure mode allows us to stack multiple images on top of each other it's something that you can do in post with regular images using Photoshop and layers this is something that in order to fully appreciate what it does I have a separate lesson for it on the crash course will actually go out and show you the best tips and tricks I've seen some pretty spectacular things done with this it's it's kind of a night to say gimmick but it is some pretty cool things that you can do and then the HDR mode is going to allow the camera to take multiple images stack them together we can turn it on you know to two or three again this is one of these features that I will give you a demonstration on how it works in the crash course it comes there's a time in place for it not great with moving subjects but in certain types of landscape images it can it can really work we'll talk about all this and how to use it in a real-world setting same thing with interval timer we have a built-in intervalometer the moment we turn it on we have the ability to come in we can designate the time between shots and then the number of shots all the way up 99 or unlimited in the crash course I will be demonstrating how to do time-lapse videos where we go down to the beach and we do a sunset and take multiple images and stack them together there's a couple really cool tricks I can show you and that's what it is it's an intervalometer very cool there is a mode on the mode dial up here that we have not talked about it says B that stands for your bulb mode bulb is like a really long exposure mode it essentially means that when we push the shutter button down the exposure starts and when we release it the exposure ends that's how bulb mode should work it so we're exposed so when we come into something like this and we see bulb timer we can come in here and enable this come into our info details set and we can dial in the specific amount of time we want this exposure to take place over four hours minutes or seconds there's a number of cool things that we can do kind of more of it and advanced thing when we're going through for these really long exposures and star trails and things of that nature but this allows us to have control over how long the exposure time is with our bulb for now I'm going to turn it off come back over to aperture priority focus bracketing means that we can control where the focus is and the camera will adjust it from shot to shot we can designate the number of shots I've never needed anything to do 100 shots it's usually like you know 6 to 10 at most so I'm just going to come over here something like that so you choose the number of shots you can choose the steps or the intervals between them and then and then you would fire away I will include a lesson on focus bracketing in the applications and how to use this again on the crash course got a lot of these little side lessons in terms of philosophy of use and how to apply them but this allows the camera to shift focus from shot to shot stack them together to get a very deep depth of field coming into page 6 we have our auto focus clusters there they are and live view right again we have our eye detection this is something that we could toggle with the info button when we were using face detection continuous auto focus is something I recommend leaving turned off unless you have a specific reason for forcing the camera to focus oh look we got we have our interval ah no this is our focus bracketing that happens sometimes I just forget it'll happen you know you just do a setting and you forget it but if you see any weird icons like that probably left something on but yeah the continuous auto focus I don't like it because the the cameras constantly engaging focusing and I feel like it where's the battery down just my thought on it lends electronic manual focus so there are certain lenses that focus is control controlled electronically and what this does is that when you are in one shot auto focus do you want the ability to rotate your your manual focusing ring to dial in manual focus if you do want to do that and you have a lens for it you would select enable auto focus assist being firing this has to do with speed lights I recommend leaving it on if you turn it off and you're using the speed light and you're in a very dark setting you are probably going to run into some focusing problems and then and there are some other options in here but nothing good has ever come from people playing around in here and forgetting that they did so so we're gonna leave that on and then we have our peaking focusing which we've already talked about in the focusing lesson and that is our read tab which is our shooting tab very important to note that when we flip this over to our video icon and we come back into the menu you are going to notice that certain things have changed not many just a couple for example movie servo AF tracking sensitivity is not turned on I'll show you how to dial this in later again we have our peaking but it's it's interesting to me that Canon has done this we have things like our resolutions we can change them from our menu if we want to we can go with a high frame rate again remember this is HD at 120 frames per second so if you play that back at 30 frames per second it's four times the slow motion and I'll be demonstrating this on the crash course one of the drawbacks is we don't have any audio that's okay there's a lot of cool things you can do with slow motion in music hit okay we have the 4k movie cropping and this in here is warning us of potential overheating something else I need to point out before I forget is that the mode dial is sensitive in video recording so you'll notice that when we're in this 120 frame rate we lose sound we lose digital movie there's certain features that we lose and this happens all the time okay I'm gonna come back turn that off we're gonna come back into 4k at 30 presser menu and we get those features back so this is going to happen is is that you'll you'll notice these things are grayed out and you're like what is going on it's because in other settings turned on sound recording super important that we turn this to manual I don't like the microphone on the camera it's not as good but when you turn it to manual you have control over the game which is the recording level and I almost always turn this down and looking at the levels right here we want to stay away from this red because when it gets to the red it starts to clip out and we lose that information and it's going to sound terrible even if you have a good microphone keep an eye on this to make sure you're not clipping out and as I said earlier you're going to want an on-board microphone if you're doing any type of serious sound recording or any Keys hit okay the wind filter an attenuator usually just turn them off because they don't really work anyway another important piece of advice is to get a headset you can plug into your camera and you can listen to the audio as it's coming in so you can hear if there's any problems or static interference and you can adjust your levels to a good level but if we leave this on auto what's going to happen is the cameras gain is going to be shifting and the audio is gonna be all over the place that's going to sound terrible so make sure you turn this to manual when you are doing video recording movie digital image stabilization I recommend turning it off the camera is going to basically zoom in and crop your video out to stabilize it this is something you can do in post if you do it in camera you're going to lose resolution we have our aberration correction for vignetting things of that nature pretty cool we can do time-lapse movie which is basically giving the cam permission to assemble stills into a movie and this is a really cool thing because we can come in here and we can choose whether it's 4k or HD what are the interval times how many images and so the difference between time-lapse movie and an intervalometer is this is actually making the movie for us in camera we're going to turn this off you'll notice that we have these different scenes and the settings are a little bit different on each 5 seconds for 240 frames scene threes intervals of 15 seconds for 240 and then we can come in and do custom where we can just decide what we want again I'll be giving those examples on the crash course we're gonna turn it off for now come back out if we want to use a compatible remote control this is where we enable it pretty straightforward video a snapshot is a feature that records these you know it's a things like 4 to 8 seconds of a video clip and assembles it together not a huge fan of it never we have never used it and then we come back into too many of these other settings that we've already seen most of them should be similar we have HDMI info display so if we're feeding this out to an HDMI recorder like the atom most ninja 5 we could see the information if you want to clean with no exposure settings or anything like that we could go to 4k and then we can go to Full HD so one question is why would you want the information displayed well sometimes you want to use those as a monitor as an external monitor you want to see the camera settings that's why you would want to have it on see what else we got something else I need to point out is that when you are shooting with LED lights that are on an alternating current meaning they're plugged into the wall you might see something like this watch what happens when I use a faster shutter speed is we get this this ugly banding and you will also see this when using an electronic shutter for stills this has to do with alternating current in a mismatch between the frame rate and the Hertz of the electricity I did a video on it why what is blinking happen on videos so this explains why this happens in the solution to this is using a shutter speed of 160th of a second it's going to eliminate it everything's going to be fine so if you see that that's the problem so keep all that in mind there are different read menus between the video and the stills and there's even differences between live view and no live view okay so there's the live view page to right turn it off page to I don't know why they did it like that it's kind of weird but if you don't see things that's why the anti flicker shooting feature has to do with this alternating current in that sometimes even the exposure in the temperature of the lights you're shooting and can change when you turn this on you may experience this shutter lag where you push a shutter button down and the picture doesn't happen right away it's because the camera is timing it between the flickers so some way I saw it at a track meet where the sodium lights were changing colors between shots turned it on no problem mirror lock-up is handy when you're doing very telephoto shots and you you don't want to shake the camera it basically allows us to flip the mirror up before the shot okay reduces camera shock do not point it at the Sun okay so that's what that's all about let's make sure we got everything in here so that's the red tab next tab is the blue which is the playback tab a lot of these in here are things I don't really use like protecting images you could come in and select individual images you can select a range you can select all the images in a folder and when you protect them the idea is it puts this little key icon on it and when you delete all the images in the folder it will not erase that one image the problem with this is when you were dealing with formatting the memory card which is something you're going to do often this isn't going to protect it anyway and I typically only format my cards I don't really delete all the images sometimes people will micromanage they'll have all their images on one card you'll never download them I'm just gonna try to keep them all which is which is a bad idea anyway so the short answer on this is it's something I don't really use you could protect all the images in a folder you can unprotect them all the images on a card rotating the images if we wanted to rotate it 90 degrees sometimes you're shooting at a funky angle you know straight up or straight down and the camera doesn't know which ways up you can rotate it you could erase individual images in groups so you can select individuals like this who want to should let us zoom out you can come in choose different images delete them choose arrange again you can delete them in a folder on a card again this is just not how I do it when I you know in terms of workflow I'll go out and I'll do a shoot the moment I come in to the door I'll put the memory card in my computer I start downloading the images and I start charging my batteries again as soon as the images are downloaded I make a second backup and then when that second backup is made I make a third online backup so at that point I actually have four copies two of my hard drives and then one on a cloud and then one in the memory card and I leave the memory card intact until I'm ready to go shoot just in case I missed something and it has happened where I go back and I find it on the card and then when I when I'm preparing to go out for the shoot and I'm sure I've gotten everything downloaded then I reformat the memory cards I don't do this micromanaging with deleting images I think it's risky and not a good idea print order allows us to connect our camera to a computer and print from the camera it's again this is something I don't really use because I've downloaded all my images to my computer but if you have nothing else you have a USB cable and a way to connect it you can come in and select an M and then you can basically print it but like I said this is just something that I don't you really use ever I don't use it you can choose multiple copies of the same one if you want I'm gonna come back out same thing with a photo book setup there's a way to create essentially a photo book by coming in and selecting different images again something I just don't use the creative filters we have a designated designated mode on our mode dial for this might as well just talk about those real quick so let me flip this over to those creative filters some of them most of them are wasted time but if we are in that creative filter icon and we press on the icon in the top left hand corner we can scroll through these grainy black and white soft focus fisheye effect water painting effect kind of cool toy camera the miniature effect yeah sorta can be pretty cool sometimes does it by blurring out certain parts of the image and then we have the four different HDR's we have HDR art standard art vivid are bold and art embossed and essentially these are different HDR flavors or recipes that the camera is going to you know take multiple images and combine them we have a dedicated HDR mode in the camera which is always better than these guys might been my experience but you may want to come and play around with the HDR s so the idea on the menu is that when you see these creative filters you can apply them to an image that you've already taken by coming in pressing the set button and seeing those same icons again and as you scroll through it you just you know pick the one that you want it doesn't it's interesting it doesn't let us do that HDR is because we need to take multiple images make sense we can press the set button choose from different options if we wanted to and then apply them and so that's the idea of the creative filters in the menu it allows you to do it after the fact it's coming into page two of the blue tab raw image processing is that when we take a picture in RAW let's make sure we got our quality here it's on we can take a picture in raw we have some very minor ways that we can tweak this in in terms of RAW processing or just select this image will say yeah you okay and let's customize the raw processing so this is going to give us a few options you have a lot more firepower in Lightroom or bridge Camera Raw depending on what you're using but this will allow us to change the exposure the white balance the picture style auto lighting optimizer noise reduction we can downsize if we want to use a different color gamut aberration correction can save it which is basically an export it or we can return the the short answer on this is I do it all on my computer I almost never do it in the camera so come back out we can do the same thing for a range the creative assist is sort of like a dumbed down version of raw processing in the easiest way you can see it soon when you designate it we have this little icon up here for the the creative assist and this is going to allow us to apply some of these filters and effects after the fact to an image if you want to see it while you're shooting I'm gonna go to the dummy mode and you can see the same thing right here in the corner so this is like a super intuitive way if people are intimidated and they don't want to learn their cameras it's you know what do you want to do with it what do you want to change so for this reason I ever use it I never recommend my students use it stick with the basics and you're gonna get a lot more mileage out of your camera so the quick control RAW processing is essentially asking which of these two do you want to be available for quick raw control either creative assist or raw image processing you can designate that in different places like we just demonstrated again if this is just something I don't even bother with red eye correction if you're using a flash you will get red eye red eye action tells the camera to clean it up you can come in here and said obviously I don't I don't have any images with redeye but it allows you to clean it in camera in for some people who don't have Photoshop this can be really nice we also have the ability to create an album using video snapshots and things of that nature again not something I ever use we can crop our images pretty straightforward self-explanatory come in here you get set by pressing the magnifying glass we can change the size of it we can move it around we can come in here and press these guys we can rotate it's slowly rotating in the background you can kind of see it we can change the aspect ratio we can save it or we can just leave so if you wanted to crop it in camera you can do it we can resize which typically means saving down to smaller sizes they are when we're talking about rating images this means to assign an image with either 1 2 3 4 or 5 stars we can do it by pressing the set button and then pushing up on the directional pad you can see that it's moving this number over it recognizes some 5 star images already have in the folder but the idea is that once when I press set it sets it and come out to the menu we can do it from a range it wants us to select the first image and then we'd come down and select the last image and then we could apply rating to it so we'll go from here to here so that as last image come into Q okay and we can change the rating for all of those by rotating the primary selector wheel if I know I have a killer shot I will add star rating to it if there's lots of images but most the time I'm not really messing with it we can apply it to all the images in the folder and all the images in the card as well slideshow is something I really don't use anymore I used to do it in weddings way back in the day where we would plug basically a video cable into a TV monitor we could set it up and determine the display time for each image we would loop it we could have a transition fact we could even select our background music and when we're ready to go we would come in and we would start the slideshow and it would play on the television pretty cool thing you can do if you don't have anything else but a cable and a TV if you really want to see it kind of a nice feature we can set our search conditions so when we're scanning through our images when we're jumping through them do you want to scan by star rating the date the folder protected images do you want to look at movies and things of that nature so we can come in here and designate multiples you know anything with a star taken on this date and then we would say okay and that would designate those search conditions I don't really mess with this because I handle all my shoots individually per day and I don't have tons of images on a single card but it's there if you want it image jump with a primary selection wheel when we rotate our primary selection wheel when we are playing an image it will jump ten images that's the default they also have it jump by a specified number we can rotate with our primary selector wheel every 30 images we can jump by date we can jump by folder movies only stills only protected images and even the star rating that we designate I'm gonna also come back to one but I don't mess with one because we get that from side to side when we're playing an image playback information display but when you're playing an image back we have the ability to look at different sets of information screens by toggling the info button histogram nothing different different kinds of shooting data things of that nature so we can determine which information display we would see by check boxing which of these guys we want to show up there's a lot of information in here that are it's kind of redundant for example screen eight screen seven this is just some you know peripheral information if wanted to come in here and toggle this we could press the info button and choose RGB instead of you know the other one so it gives us some options in terms of how to control these information screens then we just want brightness take away the RGB and anyway we'll press ok and when we press play and we toggle that information we can see those different screens popping up that's how it works so there's the bar overlay there's our white histogram there's just the picture highlight alert this deals with overexposure I'll demonstrate it real quick so let me over expose this image make it nice and bright overexposed I'm gonna take picture and on playback what's gonna happen is that's going to flash in black anywhere where is overexposed so better for highlights in specific parts of the image let's see if we can make it work in a specific point that's pretty close take a picture this so anything that's flashing is overexposed that's what it does for you turn that off we can enable our auto focus point display so when we play the image back we can see where the camera was focusing kind of annoys me so I leave it turned off we have a playback grid either tic-tac-toe grid six by four or even the three by three with diagonals this is what it looks like when we're playing the image back you can kind of see this overlay going to turn that off new from last scene means that if you're scrolling through a bunch of images let's say you took you know a few hours ago when you come back into play it's going to show you that those images that you last looked at otherwise you are going to be looking at last consecutive image you took picture of I like it and leave it on which brings us to purple menu the purple menu deals specifically with the Wi-Fi features and I have a separate lesson for that I'm trying to get through this and hopefully I'll have it either in this lesson or as an additional video just tech check the table of contents if it's not here and I will add a link into a separate lessons if it's not included in in that video I will show you how to connect your your camera to your smartphone for remote shooting almost all this stuff has to do with this except for maybe GPS settings there's a GPS receiver we can add you can also use our smart phone which is probably a better choice than buying a module for this it's heavy on the batteries but keep an eye out for the Wi-Fi lesson in terms of how to connect yellow this is our essentially camera settings menu this is where we can change you know things like our folder that we're shooting - I have one folder I'm shooting - I can create another one and it's easy easy as that back in the day when I was shooting all day every day and I had multiple shoots I would have different folders for each shoot and I would just create a new folder every time I went to a different shoot and it helped me to keep everything organized now I don't do that at the end of the day I come in and organize my images we'll just say ok file numbering what this means is that when we change the memory card do you want to pick up where it left off so if I was on image 234 and I changed the memory card put a new memory card in the next image would be numbered 235 or do you want it to start at 0 0 0 1 every time you put a new card in this makes more sense to me so I leave it on continuous if I wanted to manually reset the images as I'm shooting I would come into manual reset and it would and it would start it back at 0 0 0 1 auto rotate do you recommend leaving this on it's going to do it both for the camera as well as the computer in some cases when you're pointing cameras straight down or straight up or kind of at a weird angle it can get confused and that's when we use the rotate in the blue menu otherwise usually does a pretty good job of doing it in your format memory card it's something you were going to be using a lot I talked a little bit about my workflow I'll talk more about it on the crash course it's very important that you always try to have two copies as soon as you're done shooting try to make a copy of your memory card back the head up somewhere at least two copies before you reformat the card everything on the card is going to be erased when you come in here and you hit okay everything's gone you're not you're gonna not going to be able to easily recover it there are some things you can do but most the time when you format it it's gone for good and I recommend you do that regularly once you have backups establish a good you know workflow and make those backups and reformat your memory cards for the next shoot I don't power off we talked about I typically set this to maybe a minute when I'm actually using the camera when I'm teaching it'll be at 15 minutes or more your display brightness obviously we can turn this up or down this is handy when you're outdoors and you want it really really bright it's harder to see right date and time we set up when we first got started you can change it in here if you need to hopefully you're an English speaker if you're watching this but if not there are tons of languages in here the video system unless you know what pal is you are on NTSC so in the United States NTSC in parts of Europe the PAL system you would come in here and change this touch control I like it you can make it more sensitive or you can turn it off if you want standards fine for now the beep I usually do turn this off usually kind of annoys me we can change our headphone volume very handy we can also do that from the video mode when we're shooting we have information about our battery brand-new battery for shots on it I just put it in when this gets to one tick mark you know your our life is coming to an end batteries do get tired I will say they last for many years but they do go bad I just recently got rid of a couple of them because they finally couldn't really hold a charge I would charge them up and they wouldn't really last that long so I ordered a bunch of new batteries sensor cleaning so we have a little filter that covers a set our sensor and that filter will vibrate when we turn the camera off there it is it's vibrating it's kicking these dust particles off it can also happen when we turn the camera on if we tell the camera to so we can turn this on if it's on enable it's going to happen every time you turn the camera on or off and that's going to handle a lot of the dust particles but what will happen is after a lot of shooting eventually you'll see these dust specks as a side note make sure you point your camera down when you're changing your lenses we want the sensor facing down so dust doesn't get inside it try to avoid changing lenses in in windy conditions or dusty conditions try not to leave it exposed for prolonged periods I have friends that just leave leave them wide open for weeks at a time drives me crazy but there is dust constantly in the air that we're in it's can't see it it's falling and you want to keep your sensor as clean as possible the auto cleaning mechanism is going to handle most of it but every once in a while you're going to have a very stubborn dust speck and I will show you how to clean that your your cameras on the crash course that lesson alone will pay for the crash course because I'll show you the right product to get and I will show you how to do it with confidence so you don't have to send it into a camera cleaner or anything of that nature and the rest is bonus you will make your money on that video ten times over during the life of your camera so we've turned off the mode guide we've turned off the feature guide the help text is small but if you want to be larger which probably should turn it to standard we have our viewfinder display where we can show an electronic level looking through the viewfinder we can have a grid display if we want and we can also have our flicker indicator if it's turned on so if we turn on our electronic level you'll see it in the bottom left hand corner in the viewfinder so these are all different things that we can turn on if you want to see them information button display options so by pushing the information display button do you want to see the electronic level if you don't want to see turn that on and then we have our black Q screen most everyone I know loves the electronic level there it is then we have our HDMI resolution so when we're feeding this out to a monitor do you want it to auto detect what it should play it or at a standard 1080 we also have HDMI HDR output that if we turn this on the idea is that we can get HDR video I have tested it out I have not had great results with it but if I find something different I will talk about that on the crash course I have an atom most ninja five that I use a lot it's a great teaching tool but that is the idea of this that we can get HDR HDMI out video and unfortunately we also have that same problem with whether LiveView is engaged or not I think it's really confusing so don't feel bad if if you notice this so I'm not in live you right now press this now I'm in live UI come back into that same menu page and you'll notice that it's changed it's a little we lost something in here right so just keep that in mind is that menu items are going to be there or not depending on what shooting mode we're in if I come back out there it is it's the viewfinder display that kind of stuff drives me crazy you know but I'm trying to show you the one that has the the more menu options coming to page number five in the yellow tab the multifunction lock is right here you engage it by flipping it up just a little bit and the idea on this is that we can lock certain features and settings by using the switch we can determine what those settings are in here it can be our primary selector or main dial it could be our secondary selector it can be the joystick it can be our directional pad and it can be screen you can designate which ones you want it to lock so if you bump it does it matter it okay lock is on right let's come into a shooting mode we rotate this thing and it's telling us that it's locked that's the idea of it custom shooting modes up on top on our mode dial you'll see this c1 and c2 those are your custom modes and the way this works is you may be a certain type of shooter where you like certain settings for landscape shooting and you might like some other settings for portraits including your your shooting mode your ISO your picture Styles all those things you know you can dial them all in just the way you like them and when you get it all set up you can come in to register settings you can choose which setting you want it to save under we'll choose c1 and that will save all those settings to c1 so the next time you're doing your landscape shoot instead of redialing all your settings you just flip the mode dial over to c1 and now you're doing your portrait shoot now you just flip that over to c2 and it saves you the time of needing to dial in all those settings over and over again we can clear those settings and we can also turn on auto update which means that if we change those settings while we were in those modes it will remember them as long as the dial is pointed to c1 or c2 not a fan of that so I'm going to leave that on disable really great feature we have the ability to clear all of our camera settings copyright information I can enter my name Michael Andrew I can also enter in my copyright maybe the date Michael Andrew photography 2019 2020 and that will embed that metadata into the file so every file that I take you don't have my name it'll have my copyright it's pretty straightforward you're just going to you know type your name in say mm hit OK we can also display what this is there it is pretty cool feature if you're a professional something I would recommend doing if you want to download the manual for the camera there's the URL there's the QR code you can download it some of them are very long I think this one's three or four hundred pages long but the idea of the video you're watching is is so you don't have to download that manual I think this is a lot easier and a lot more informative that's just me certification logo display this doesn't do anything this just designates certain certifications required I guess by law which brings us to the orange tab and these are the customizations there is three different sets one for exposure one for auto focus and one for operation of the cameras as well as other features the truth of the matter is I only change a couple in custom function to and almost all of them deal with the the optical focusing systems so when I teach that lesson separately I will come in and I will show you which ones to change the truth of the matter is yeah most of these are pretty straightforward you're going to you know deal in one third stop increments for example when you're changing your exposure settings same thing with our ISO settings you want to change it by third or half stop increments bracketing so most of these the default setting is pretty good if you wanted to have more bracketed shots you can change it in here the safety shift I don't really recommend messing with it exposure compensation auto cancel if you want it to turn off every time you use it we can have our auto exposure lock meter after certain modes for the most part those are going to be by default best for beginners auto focus there are a couple things in here I will talk about these more on the crash course we can change our auto focus tracking sensitivity the acceleration and deceleration of the tracking the point switching when we're tracking most of these have to do with using the optical focusing systems a lot of good stuff in here release I leave that there we're going to go into a lot more depth on these on the crash course who can determine our focusing clusters things of that nature but let's see direct focus point is amazing I like to use the autofocus select button some of these are pretty useful and we'll talk about them 10 and 13 are the ones I usually tweak all this is is when you rotate the camera up it remembers the focusing square you used the last time in that orientation so if you wanted them to be remembered separately you'd come in here and you would select that and this one all it does is allow you to move your focusing square through the side so you can go left left left and it'll jump all the way around to the right pretty straightforward it okay and the rest of them there's some good ones the VF display if you want it to illuminate just turn it on enable otherwise it'll wait until it's dark and this last one micro adjustment I would say don't mess with this this is designed to correct lenses or camera bodies that are miss focusing it's something that as an advanced shooter you would probably notice if your focus is off and there's a way to come in and actually tweak that custom function 3 there's not a lot in here we have the warning in the viewfinder we can reverse the direction for our primary selector we have our custom buttons which we saw already in the cue screen we can retract the lens when the power turns off for certain lenses and then we have audio compression which by default is turn to enable so that's that's really it for the custom functions there's not a lot in there to change that I would recommend we could also clear all of our custom functions which brings us to finally the my menu tab my favorite tab we have covered a ton of different menu items but the truth of the matter is you're probably only going to use a handful of them the my menu tab allows us to select and organize specific menu items that we want easy fast access to so we don't have to go through this whole menu so the way this works is we're going to add a my menu tab so because tab we can and you can I call this the tab I call this the page but you can see that we have a page in here and we're going to select items to register and we can scroll through the entire deep menu and find things that we want to add one of which this is what I most commonly do is is the format is something that I almost always have in my mind menu why because it's the one I use the most so we'll just keep coming up there it is format card we're gonna add that and another one let's just say image quality that's another good one we'll just sit hit OK on that one as an example those are the two I want we can sort them so if I want format memory card to be after image quality I'd hit OK come back out when I come to my menu my menu tab now I have image quality in format memory card those are the two I use more than anything in the menu obviously could add as many as I want I can add multiple pages if I didn't like those I could come in here and delete selected items I could delete all of them I could delete that entire page I can rename the tab if I wanted to you can call it what's called queue my menu queue let's just call it let's get rid of all that let us call it queue for the quick deep menu there it is q how nice is that and that's the page right there you can see it if we wanted to add another one we could do so as well so that is the mine menu tab very useful when you get used to shooting and you're using you know certain menu items over and over again you don't want to go digging for them set it up one more quick side note I need to point out if by chance you decide to rebell and turn your camera to the dummy mode the a mode I don't want to hear from you I do not want to get an email from you asking me where the rest of the tabs went in the dummy mode the camera is assuming that you know you're not into all these other options okay so that's the most common question I get about the menu systems is where where all these extra tabs well it's because your cameras on the dummy mode if you turn it back to program aperture priority shutter priority or manual mode you those tabs will return so in any event that is a quick overview of the deep menu systems I will cover it in far greater depth as well as many of these extra features on the crash course I want to give you some warnings because if you are a beginning photographer you may be steered in the wrong direction purchasing things that you may not need or want the most important accessory after the camera of course is going to be the memory card you are going to want to invest just a little bit of money and get a class u3 memory card it is going to allow your camera to write those 4k videos at sustained data rates if you put any junky memory card into your camera your camera will not perform to its highest capability and by the way I'll put all these links in the description everything I'm about to talk about will put those down below so just check them out second thing I want to point out is that when you purchase your camera the camera store or whoever it is the website they may try to push UV filters on you do not buy UV filters they do not do anything nobody has ever been able to show me a difference before and after difference in terms of what it does for the image because digital sensors already filter out UV light this is an upsell its modern-day snake oil do not buy UV filters one of the most important accessories that you're going to need is a tripod and I know many of you are on a budget you can spend as much as five or six hundred dollars on a good tripod for me the important thing is is that it's sturdy and strong and it has a locking ball head with a metal release plate and because of this I do not recommend the cheap flimsy tripods that you can buy at Walmart for 50 or 60 dollars take that money and invest it into a good quality tripod that will get at least give you several years of use I have sourced one of these tripods it's gonna save you a lot of money compact small when you're ready to upgrade take a look at the Boggan mount Fratto carbon fiber I think they run about $300 just for the legs and then you can swap out different heads on top of the tripod let's talk about lenses real quick something that's absolutely critical to keep in mind is that we have an aps-c sensor on the Canon 90 d what that means is it's a little bit smaller than a full-frame 35 millimeter digital sensor and because of this we have a multiplication factor on all of the lenses that we use and that factor is 1.6 what this means is is that if we use a 100 millimeter lens on our 90 d it is going to behave behave in terms of a focal length field of view as a 160 millimeter lens so it's always important to keep that crop factor in mind something else that I have to point out that is absolutely critical is to keep in mind that some lenses are designed for the crop sensor and these are referred to as EFS lenses on Canon lenses you'll know it when you see the little white dot that white dot does not exist on the full-frame lenses the other set are referred to as EF lenses electronic focus those are made for both full-frame as well as aps-c lenses as a side note because I know some of you will end up getting a full-frame camera I did it for years I had an aps-c in a full-frame you cannot use EFS lenses on full frame cameras there's a little part the back part of the lens that will hit the mirror so just keep that in mind and the reason why I go into all this is because you're going to have a buying strategy when I started shooting full-frame I didn't want to carry two sets of lenses I just wanted one set and so I upgraded all my lenses to full-frame not a problem if you are just getting started in you're on a budget the kit lens is going to be great for now as you're learning your system 18 to 55 there's also an 18 to 135 many of you probably got that lens with your purchase you're probably going to want a telephoto zoom for something like sports shooting or birds in flight take a look at canons 70 to 300 millimeter or the 55 to 2 sometimes those are sold in kits as well for outdoor shooting in the daytime they're going to be a great start if you're looking for a wide-angle lens something for vlogging and things of that nature maybe landscape shooting take a look at the 10 to 18 F 4.5 to 5.6 that's a really affordable light small lens it's very versatile so those lenses in the beginning are great if you have unlimited money and you're looking for some very high-end lenses you're looking at the Canon Holy Trinity it's the 16 to 35 2.8 the 24 to 70 2.8 version 2 lives on my Canon DSLRs that's the lens that I use 80 to 90 percent of the time in the 70 to 200 2.8 and there's different versions of each of those having said all that one EF lens I would definitely recommend is canons 50 millimeter 1.8 it's a wide aperture it's going to behave as an 80 millimeter focal length which is great for portraits that's almost a no-brainer because it gives you the ability to shoot portraits it's also a low-light lens it's very small it's very light and it's very affordable Sigma has an amazing 18 to 35 1.8 it's very sharp a little bit more expensive a little bit wider Tamron has a bunch of great lenses there's just so much I can't even cover them but in the beginning go for those kit lenses that I mentioned they're more affordable and if you're looking to save even more money take a look at eBay because people sell them there all the time if you're serious about video shooting you're going to want to get an onboard microphone the one built into the camera is not the best plus when you're handling the camera and the vibrations and the motors tent that noise tends to get picked up by the built-in microphone and outside microphone like the ones made by rode are typically really good to get started and again you can find a lot of these used on eBay if you found this video helpful and you want to learn more about your Canon 90d in real world shooting situations get the basics of photography check out my canon 90 d crash course that link is in the description thank you guys so much for watching and I will see you next time [Music] [Music]

Channel: Michael The Maven

Views: 619,863

Rating: 4.8190665 out of 5

Keywords: Canon 90D, Canon EOS 90D, Canon 90D Training, Canon 90D Manual, Canon 90D Tutorial, 90 D, Canon 90 D

Id: d2yZSLmEUAk

Length: 151min 15sec (9075 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 19 2019