Canon M50 Full Tutorial Training Overview

hi my name is Michael Andrew and I'm going to give you a free tutorial on the awesome little cannon m50 if you are an owner of this camera congratulations bang for your buck it is a wonderful little vlogging camera we got an articulating touchscreen monitor it's an aps-c size sensor so you can do a lots of different kinds of shooting including the portraits and landscapes just tremendous value with the kit lens 650 so if you are coming from another camera system and your experience you just want to jump to the topic take a look at the table of contents that we've built in the description below we spend a lot of time making this this is a long video do command F or control F before search type in the topic and you can jump to that particular subject without needing to go through the whole video for those of you who are beginners intermediate photographers I want to take a moment to tell you and warn you that this video will teach you about how to operate the camera but the most important tool that you have for photography is right here between your two years your brain is the most important tool by far and the camera is an extension of whatever you see in your brain now when I got started way back in 2003 we didn't have YouTube so I had to go out and learn by trial and error and it took me two years to learn everything just by making mistakes and trying something new and there was a point that I was so frustrated at it had my camera in the hid in my hand I was looking at this wall that I was getting ready to throw it into I was so frustrated I was ready to give up photography and I know beginning and intermediate students go through this frustration and I just want to tell you I've been there I know exactly how you feel and I am here to help you through it once I got through the basics and I realized that there was so much to learn I remember thinking to myself okay there were these college classes I could take there were workshops I could take they cost thousands of dollars and so I sat down and I just decided you know what I can make a better course that is he fast cuts to the chase and is going to save people a tremendous amount of time and frustration in learning their camera and that's where my crash courses came from so I'm trying to warn you that the operation of the camera is just one part of the puzzle it's one part of the pie so to speak and to become a good and proficient photographer there are things you need to know about the physics of the camera talking about shutter speed aperture and depth of field ISO talking about the art composition there are some digital basics you'll need to know about the camera we need to know about lighting including operating a flash that's in addition to the camera and then we have the different philosophies and mindsets for different kinds of shootings there's even workflow so looking at portraits that's one type of mindset there's a different mindset for shooting video where you can do vlogging we can do storytelling you can do documentary style and there's a lot of information to know so if you're really trying to maximize the value of your camera there is a synergy of putting these all together and really understanding how this fantastic tool will change according to what you see in your mind this is the key and this is why the Canon m50 crash course is so important to you as a camera owner is it's going to teach you how to pre visualize whatever your goals are and then take the tools that I teach you with the camera and create incredible art that's the goal and the goal is to do it in a couple hours so it typically takes a couple weeks from the time that I published this video if you're interested follow a link in the description leave your email address in the comments of my blog and we will reach out to you when it's ready another tremendous resource that I would recommend checking out is Tony Northrup stunning digital photography Tony is a friend of mine but he did not ask me to talk about this I just think it's a great resource he has an awesome YouTube channel publishes multiple videos every week as do i and I would definitely recommend subscribing to both of our channels with all that in mind let's get started I want to point this out real quick is that you see green light flashing this means the camera is in standby mode so if you don't shoot with the camera it's automatically going to turn off the monitor it's basically saying you need to turn your power switch off so if you tap the shutter button that's going to wake it back up and when we go into the deep menu there's a couple things I want you guys to change the first you're gonna see something a little bit different and this is also touch monitor on the top here so this menu display if you have it unguided you're going to see a different set of information this is like the more basic view I'm not a huge fan of it because we have far more settings and controls in the deep menu so first thing you should do in the menu systems because I'm not going to teach this I hate to say Mickey Mouse version of it but that's basically what it is is we're gonna change this to standard okay this is what we see on most Canon cameras this type of a menu system where red is shooting blue is playback we have yellow which are which are camera settings there's often an orange tab it's integrated here with this one and then we have a guy displays most of them I'm gonna have you turn off because I think they get in the way and then we have our custom my menu tab but anyway the first thing I would say is is get to this turn off the assisted guided menus and the second thing that I'm going to do on this video is the power mode the power saving stuff is that I don't want the camera turning off every minute so I'm gonna just turn this to thirty ten okay that way the camera won't be shutting off while I'm recording so when you're getting your camera setup there's a couple things I want to point out real quick obviously the battery is on the bottom and the battery is small it would be worth the investment to have at least minimum one extra of these maybe more so you can see the Pens in there which means we want the pins facing up towards the top of the camera you're also going to notice that this is where the memory card is I use a SanDisk there's a 64 gigabyte SanDisk Extreme Pro you're going to notice that this has a little symbol u3 on it you three gives you sustained writing speeds for 4k videos so if you know you're going to do 4k video at least get a memory card that has the u3 I personally like SanDisk but there are a lot of good brands out there so when we put this into the camera the pins are going to be facing towards the monitor this is something easy just to remember the closing but again the battery's a little small you at least get one extra one so let's go through all the buttons and physical controls the ports of the camera so you know what I'm talking about later on in the lessons the shutter button if you are brand new to photography most cameras work this way is that when you push the shutter button halfway down it is going to engage the focusing systems of the camera if you are using autofocus if you're using a manual focus or yury customize your button that's not the case for beginning and intermediate photographers what I tell them is to push the shutter button halfway down and to feel that spongy resistance and by the way if you don't have your camera in your hands go and get it pause the video follow along as we go through these exercises so feel that spongy resistance to focus the camera push it down all the way to take the picture that's one of the most basic skill sets you should start off with if you're just learning your camera so this little knob around the shutter button is referred to as the main dial it's going to be our primary control when we're changing things such as aperture shutter speed it'll allow us to move through some of the menus even though we have a touch screen it's going to be used very often to the right of that we have the video record button with the red dot obviously if you're going to record video you're going to press this to start and stop it MF n stands for multifunction button which is going to give us a number of items in a menu that I'll be pointing out later the mode dial here is pretty important and there are far more icons on here than I think that you should worry about what I tell all my friends who are just starting is to start off on the AV mode aperture priority mode you know up them to the point that you got a hang of all the other stuff we're going to talk about and then manual mode these are the two modes that I use the most occasionally a secret is to use P mode program mode with flash so if you're shooting at an event and you have a speedlight on there and you're changing a lot P is the handheld speed light mode all of these other other modes don't really use them it's usually a V M or the video mode power switch obviously pretty important if you want to turn the camera on here is the hot shoe mount this is going to allow us to attach a larger flash than the one that comes with the camera the camera has one built-in which is accessed by pulling up and will be covering a little bit of that if you're interested in how a speedlight a larger speed light works in connection with the camera we cover that on the m50 crash course this is a little hot shoe protector so when we're talking about the back of the camera up here on the top you're going to notice this little black dot to the right of the electronic viewfinder that is a sensor it's a battery saver so when you pull the camera up to your face this is going to sense your eye or is close to it it's going to engage the EVF when you pull it down the back monitor the large monitor will kick in most of your controls can be done from the back monitor and I'll be pointing those out and when it happens but there are a few physical buttons we have on the back this little star button in the top right hand corner is your exposure lock or your flash exposure lock button I rarely use it but there is a way and I'll show you this the little squares of little dots inside this is our focusing cluster point selector we have our information button which allows us to toggle different views on the back of the camera very important on the bottom we have the play icon to obviously playback images then we have our deep menu button we'll be spending some time on this there's a huge section on the course where we pretty much cover everything and I go into the philosophy of use which is really kind of the intermediate to advanced understanding of what all these settings are so this dial here the directional pad you're going to notice as different icons top bottom right left and then we're is also a button in the very middle to separate button the middle button says cue I know it's difficult to see but this is like an inter button so like on a computer return or enter so you push that into the camera body when you have selected something on the bottom we have the garbage can icon which is going to allow us to delete images we don't like typically I reserved this for only really bad images the rest if I'm close I like to see it on a big before I make my decision on the right we have this little flash icon it's going to allow us to toggle whether or not the flash is on on the left it says af/mf that is your manual focus button so you toggle that if you want to jump into manual focus it's very quick it's very easy most DSLR lenses have a manual focus switch on the lenses but we're shooting with these em lenses that are small and compact and they don't most of them don't have it on the top we have this strange icon which is a box with a diagonal through it a plus minus sign that is your exposure compensation button it's a very important button to know we'll be talking about that in depth skids it's going to get its own lesson on this course so important so with all this in mind that is a quick overview of all the buttons ports and controls on your Canon m50 let's start getting into some of the lessons a couple things I wanted to point out on the kit lens that if you have this but many of you will this is the 15 to 45 you're going to notice there's this lock and this is to prevent the the lens from opening the camera set up in such a way that this has to be put into the 15 at least position before the camera will wake up so just keep that in mind there are other AM lenses that do not have that lock this is something that the kit lens definitely has so on the left side of the camera here we have the microphone port and there are different microphones that I recommend obviously if you're going to do any kind of serious video work you're going to want to use this so in terms of a lav mic or even onboard mic right here we have this little button this is the lens release you're gonna have to push this in all the way kind of hard whatever any time you want to take a lens off you're gonna going to have to do that and something else you're going to notice this white dot on the camera body this is going to line up with the white dot on the lens so every time you put a lens on you're going to want to make sure those are aligned on the right side of the camera where our hand would rest right hand we have the HDMI out and we also have a USB port so if you come underneath this gaskey here you're going to notice that this is the smallest HDMI out this guy down here is our Wi-Fi button this is going to allow us to connect to the Wi-Fi we'll be talking about that in a later lesson so let's talk about all these icons that we see in the different displays and something you should become very familiar with is pushing the info button to change the view that you're getting just start pushing that a couple times to see all this different these different screens something you need to know is that anytime you see a highlighted icon with this gray box that means you can touch that box and change the controls right within it very important to note the cue mode when you push the cue mode you're going to be able to change a lot of these settings when you don't see the box it's going to remain locked so that doesn't allow me to change any settings why because I need to focus on something right did you see how it took a picture there so there is a setting called touch shutter it's right here and I'm going to turn that off if we continue to toggle that we can turn it back on turn it off so now we are going to be able to focus by touching on the screen and this is how I recommend setting it up when you have touch an able on any time you bump the screen it's gonna take a picture but if we press the cue button all of those menu items come up and we're able to change them so I want to take you through each of these real quick on the left and right we have the menu items and those menu items subfolder is on the bottom so if we're talking about the auto focusing mode we could change our focusing modes from these three clusters we'll be talking about the next is the auto focus operation whether it's a one time focus or a repeated focus for moving subjects we talking about all these individually in the focusing lesson we have our drive mode and these icons each mean something different single frame high-speed continuous burst so if you hold the shutter button down it's going to continue to take pictures low speed continuous bursts not as many frames per second we have our 10 second timer our two second timer and then we have the customizable timer so we can come in here and we can customize the number of shots we want to take with the timer one more thing on this continuous timer is that I believe it's the ten-second timer so if you use this as a ten-second timer and then this is the number of it's going to take metering modes are how the camera measures light coming into the camera we'll be talking about this in depth in its own lesson we have our image quality which allows us to control the type of file we're creating whether it's raw or JPEG see all those options here on the bottom the L stands for large which is the full resolution and as we get smaller and smaller you can see it starts giving us the full dimension for large is 24 megapixels in the brackets right here this is the number of shots remaining on your memory card medium which is 11 megapixels and we get the resolution almost 4000 wide by 20 656 then we have our smaller versions some of you will be wondering what the difference between the smooth and the jagged L that is the compression type and you'll notice the number of shots remaining changes even though the resolution is the same between these and so what's happening is in this jagged icon the camera is throwing away certain types of information and the file sizes are almost half of what they are in the smooth we also have the ability to go into the raw setting so if I press info here we can determine whether we're using standard raw or a form of compressed or compact raw that doesn't take up as much space RAW files the idea behind them is this is the raw information it's captured by the camera has a lot more color information has more dynamic range typically when you're shooting a landscape it's a good idea to shoot raw and there's other situations mixed lighting conditions if you want to capture all of the color information things of that nature we'll be talking a little bit more about this when you get into the menu stuff so the movie record settings so we have our different resolutions 1920 by 1080 is standard HD there's a bunch of numbers in here 60 frames per second IP B has to do with the compression type most of the compression types on here are IP b notice all of them I made up a little acronym for that saying I like peanut butter and there's another compression type called all I and this has to do with how the video frames are compressed since this is something that we're going to cover in the video lesson but all you need to really worry about right now is that this is hi-def and the number of frames so 60 frames 30 frames 24 frames and we can also do 4k 24 and that is set up in the video menu so just real quick let me show you where it is we're on the subject here go over to video mode you see this this stuff that's popping up so anytime I change the mode dial it's giving me this little introduction to what it is so I like to shoot manual okay so what I want to do is show you and we get into this in the in the crash course in depth is there is the 4k right there it's in the menu system we're talking more about that on the crash course I like shooting in 4k we're limited to 24 frames per second but there it is if you don't see it on our main shooting menu so if we come back out you're gonna see that this has changed and there it is it's 4k so if you are not in the video shooting mode this is the take home message watch I switch it over press my info button and that 4k option is gone so that's what's happening if you do not see that 4k icon it wants you to be in the video icon mode before you select it on the right side white balance we'll be talking about that in just a second we have our picture Styles think of these as recipes that are baking the files with certain types of color information and throwing the rest away we have our auto light optimizer which is going to help with some of the contrast I usually turn it off but some people like it creative filters I'm not a huge fan with and because I have my raw turned on it doesn't want us to select it so we can come back in turn raw off and then here they are these are kind of fun to play around with but they're these are not serious tools that a professional would use a lot of these are like the filters you do like really basic filters that you see on your smartphone kind of thing and we have our still image aspect ratio I recommend leaving it on three - - my dad loves to shoot in sixteen by nine which is the cinema aspect ratio three by two is going to use all of your sensor and if you want to crop that in post you are welcome to do so when you start picking these other aspect ratios you're going to notice we need different resolutions so a part of the image is being cropped when it's a when I say cropped I mean cutoff so let me show you something real quick is that if you pick a 1 to 1 aspect ratio and take a picture and I play this back we have a square image that's been cropped off so the advice that I give is don't do that unless you know you're gonna go to shriek Instagram or something and just want to save the step but usually most of the time it just it makes more sense to shoot with the full aspect ratio the full crop and that way you have all your information you can crop it later if you want so that is the Q menu or the quick menu you can get to it again by pressing the Q button or you can just push into the camera button right here this is a dedicated Q button available when we're out of the Q mode I want to walk you through all this information in here the Q mode has all of the items on display which one you have selected at the time in the top left-hand corner we have the mode we're shooting in the shooting mode number of shots remaining this is how much video we can record before the camera shut off we have our battery histogram I so really important we'll be talking about that in depth in the exposure lesson these two guys right here shutter speed and aperture the most important settings when controlling how much light is coming into your camera these three on the bottom shutter speed aperture and ISO are absolutely critical as we push the info button we are able to toggle through different screens so if we don't like seeing all that stuff we can push the info button make it go away and we can shoot we get a limited set of data you're going to notice that the shutter speed the aperture and the ISO are very common on almost all cameras on the bottom and also in the viewfinder as you look the viewfinder is going to be a mirror of whatever it's in back of the camera as we continue to push the info button we come to this infamous black info screen this is good because it's going to allow us to see all these settings a little bit larger and new we have this little grey box the Q screen so we can access the Quick Menu both in live view as well as this black screen mode and I want to take you through all the settings in here real quick so if I push the Q button you're going to notice we get all these highlights showing up top left-hand corner is the shooting mode shutter speed aperture ISO this orange icon is saying this is what's going to change when you rotate your primary selector so even though we're kicked out of the touch operation of the Q screen we can still change the shutter speed by using the main control wheel come back in to the quick screen another thing we can do is touch and rotate any of these items so we can change it without going into the submenu or we can double tap and we can touch and drag on the scale or if there's many icons so there's multiple ways to change the information in the screen we do main command we'll double tap is just an efficiency thing and what you prefer let me take you through the rest so shutter speed aperture ISO this guy right here is our exposure compensation bar typically does not work in manual mode because manual mode see how we get these I'm gonna show you turn that off in a second come back in there it is so we double tap on that and we can come in and change the brightness of the image we can use something called bracketing that I'll be talking about a little bit later very powerful this is something you're going to want to become familiar with to the immediate right of that we have something that looks very similar we have this flash bolt plus/minus so this is exposure compensation this is flash exposure compensation exposure is a fancy word for brightness compensation means changing so what this these two things do this changes the brightness of the natural light we're shooting in this is going to change the brightness of the flash we're using I'll be going through what these numbers mean in a later lesson on this video so just below this we have our picture styles which is something that basically controls how the color information is compressed into the file we have our white balance it's telling us which white balance reflected auto white balance if we come in here look at all the different white balances we're talking about that in its own lesson white balance shift not a huge fan of but we'll be talking about that then we have our auto light optimizer the metering modes which is how camera measures light information we talked about that too we talked about all these then we have our focus cluster selector there's different focusing clusters that we use one shot versus servo servo is continuous focus we have our drives which is what the camera does after we push a shutter button down all the way we briefly covered these from a single still you guys want to hear burst that's what it sounds like try it out so multiple flight frames per second and lastly we have our image size and quality this is going to allow us to determine the size the type and the compression of the files we're capturing for stills on the bottom we have a little bit of information anytime we come it's the cameras trying to teach us is what's going on this stuff drives me crazy because I feel like it gets in the way so I want you guys to turn the mode guide and the feature guide we're gonna turn these off so we can talk like adults about this the mode guide is what this is doing is every time I change the mode it's giving us this overlay it's trying to teach you know like give you some information in terms of what we're changing and why and here's there's this little screen if you guys want to leave it on you can I think it gets in the way so I'm going to turn this to disable and this is going to allow me and you to get to our settings with tripping over those feature guides so now when we come into the Q screen we can just touch and get right to it okay so this is this is what I'm talking about is fewer steps more efficient so this is the info display and we can enter with the Q button we also get a battery icon so pushing the info button again we're toggling through and then we're back to a regular shooting mode where we can see if we continue to press the info button we have cycled all the way around real quick I want to point something out is that you'll notice is that as we're talking through these information screens we have lost the electronic level what happened okay there are there are a few little quirky weird things that when you turn some settings on it changes settings in other places and when you use face tracking for whatever reason we lose the level so go to a single square tap your shutter button come back out there it is and so keep that in mind that's one of the weird settings the electronic level is great when shooting landscapes when you get these two green lines it tells us that the camera is nice and balanced if I were to tilt it you see how it's getting out of kilter read and you can also see this this guy right here in the middle that as you get closer to Center those become smaller and smaller so it sees it as right there I'm shooting a little bit elevated so side to side see if we can make this work just so you guys can see let's get this there's the middle line right there it's green in the middle so that would be perfectly centered perfectly straight and it's a great little tool to use something I need to point out is that when you play an image back so this is the picture we just took if you push the info button again you can pull up different kinds of information including what shot this is out of the sequence we have a shutter speed aperture ISO we have the quality setting it's a file name if we continue to push the info button we get the histogram which we'll talk about on the crash course we have our picture style the metering mode auto light optimizer we even have the size of the file so if you continue to push the info button it'll tell us the lens we you the focal length that it was selected at we get our RGB histogram so there's a lot of information when you press that info button so definitely get in the habit of doing that it's very useful if we come into the menu there's something I want to show you real quick where we can determine the kinds of information that are showing so on the fourth tab of the yellow icons as shooting info display if we come in here and we set this we can come in to screen info settings and we can determine the screens that pop up when we toggle the information button so let's just go edit see all this information in here this is the electronic level I like that so just make sure that's turned on so you can see it that's what's going on is that we can customize the information screens that we see if there's something in here that you don't want to see you can come in here and just turn it off and you won't see it anymore so it's telling us on screen 3 this is what you can expect to see wait ok and each of those screens that I showed you correspond with a different number so you can customize them separately it's very nice it's a very nice feature we can do the same for the viewfinder in toggle different settings as well we have our grid display this these are a set of lines that appear on the overlay so if we do a three by three grid shutter button come out you can see this allows us to line things up with architecture and things of that nature it's not going to show up on the on the image itself I'm not a huge fan of it so I leave it turned off and and so we'll be talking more about this especially on the crash course we're going to total depth on that so there we go back out so the reason why I like shooting in front of my blinds is I can put different things up and we can look at things like white color we can look at exposure brightness and so the thing I want you to do is let's simplify the screen a little bit kind of get to this mode is we are going to talk about the four major modes here P program mode shutter priority mode this stands for time value aperture priority mode in the manual mode if you are a pure beginner and feeling super overwhelmed you are going to be tempted to put it on the full auto mode it's a little green a on the top of your mode dial and you notice that we lose most of our settings this is what I call the dummy mode this is turning your camera into a point-and-shoot it's sort of like having a race car in never driving over 35 miles per hour okay this is really limiting your camera so even if you're a pure beginner and you're super intimidated I would say start off in program mode if you are feeling brave and ready to learn as fast as possible I want you to shoot on aperture priority mode and struggle with it until you get the swing of things and this is where we're going to start I'm going to talk about each of these modes individually and how to change the settings and why you would want these different modes aperture priority mode means that we choose the aperture of the lens which is the opening of the lens and the camera is going to determine the shutter speed so when we're in aperture priority mode you're going to notice that the shutter speed is now missing we cannot directly select it from this screen and our primary our main dial is now designating the aperture so in aperture our aperture priority mode if I start changing my aperture so this is making the opening smaller as we go up it's counterintuitive something very strange is happening the brightness is staying the same how in the world is it possible for the brightness to stay the same when we are changing the diameter of the opening there's not as much light coming in so if we're making this diameter smaller this should be getting darker and what is happening is the camera is making the changes to the shutter speed it's doing it automatically for us this is why aperture priority is a great mode to shoot in if you're in changing lighting conditions I was a wedding photographer for many years and one of the trickiest situations was would go from inside the church to a lobby to the bright sunny outdoors in less than 15 seconds so if I had it on manual I would have to change my shutter speed myself but if I left it on aperture priority I wouldn't have to worry about changing my shutter speed and I could look where I was walking and not tripping over people I could think about composition so sports shooters use aperture priority mode often depending on the sport the shooting of course and this is going to turn control over to the cameras going to make your life easier so I want to prove it to you if you tap the shutter button we get the shutter speed display we can see it we can't change it so as I rotate it look what's happening here to the shutter speed as we change the aperture the shutter speed is being changed automatically by the camera now there are a few important shutter speed barriers you need to be aware of the shutter speed is how long the light is falling on to the sensor so it's a time value so one sixtieth of a second is the bare-bones minimum I believe to shoot a portrait of a person if you're shooting on a shutter speed slower than one sixtieth of a second such as one thirtieth or one fifteenth often what happens is that either you move or your subject is going to move and the picture is going to be blurry so if you are getting a lot of blurry images the first thing I tell people is check your shutter speed in an aperture priority mode all you need to do is just take a glance you can't change it directly so what I do is I dial in my aperture and as I'm shooting I sneak a peek over here at my shutter speed okay that's how it works when I'm shooting aperture priority having said all that another shutter speed barrier you should be aware of is when you're shooting sports depends on the athletes and how fast they're moving but typically a running person anything less than one 500th of a second you're gonna run into problems I like one one thousandth or even faster and so let's say for example we were at a sporting event or you were shooting outside and we needed a faster shutter speed in all honesty the m50 is not a strong sports shooting camera just so you know it's one of the weaknesses but let's say we're shooting and we need to get a faster shutter speed okay and we've opened our aperture as much as we can to let as much light in as we can and we're stuck at 250 how can we get a faster shutter speed I want you to think about this ISO is a boost it essentially boosts the light coming in to the sensor it's an artificial gain and so if you said use a faster ISO you're absolutely correct so if let's say we go to 3200 look what happened to the shutter speed shutter speed went up and as we continue to add more and more ISO the shutter speed is getting faster and faster so something I want to point out real quick is we have this button on top of our camera called the MF + button or the multifunction button and in a shooting mode like manual or aperture priority mode this button controls your ISO so if you're looking through the viewfinder and you want something systemize bullying quick you come into your multifunction button and you could adjust it so now we're changing our eye so it's a very fast easy way to do it instead of going through the menus some people refer to the shutter speed aperture and ISO as the exposure triangle but the only thing really dealing with light coming into the camera is your shutter speed in your aperture ISO is an artificial boost now the trade-off on ISO and we talked about this you know in other lessons on the course is that as you add more and more ISO you're going to get more and more noise grain added to the image it's actually going to degrade the image I'm comfortable definitely at 1600 at 3200 you're gonna start seeing some grain in its 64 and 12800 you're gonna see lots of grains so up and up in these areas take a picture in low-light with these settings and then zoom in and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about in fact we can do it right now let's just go here I'm going to change my aperture to make it as dark as possible and you can see already now we're going to talk about touch screen so if we zoom in you can see look at all the noise that was introduced it's grainy this is not a pleasing image and that is mostly because we added so much ISO so coming back out let's go down to a very low ISO something like 400 shutter speed changed so I'm gonna open up my aperture I'm on a tripod if you're on a tripod you can often get away with very long shutter speeds with landscape shooting take a picture if we were to zoom in look almost no grain at all so keep that in mind there is a trade-off with the ISO in terms of grain that you're going to beginning so talking about the philosophy of use when we're talking about using aperture priority mode I want you to take your hand tap the shutter button and just move it in front of the lens just like this look what's happening to the shutter speed most beginning photographers never get this is that what's happening is the camera is measuring light in real time using different metering modes the metering modes determine how that calculation happens will be talking about that a little bit later but if you understand this principle the cameras measuring a light you're gonna be in really really good shape conceptually so now let's talk about exposure compensation it's a fancy way of saying changing an image brightness this bar on the bottom is going to tell us where we're at you're going to notice we have a negative 3 negative 2 and a negative 1 on the left-hand side then we had this like baseball home diamond plate plus 1 plus 2 plus 3 what do those numbers mean so the short answer on this is that if you take a picture and you want to make it brighter is that you can change your exposure compensation there's a couple ways to do this I'm coming here touch onto the bar so I went from 0 to 1 and I take another picture and I play those back so here's the second one and here's the first one this is a fundamental technique of photography is changing your image brightness if you go out and practice that one lesson today aperture priority mode in changing your brightness you will have accomplished a ton in terms of the foundations of photography it's changing the brightness from shot to shot this is a big deal tap the shutter button come back out and you're going to notice the exposure compensation bar is now at +1 so what does that +1 really mean that +1 refers to something called a stop a stop is a fancy way of saying a measure of light so if we go from 0 to 1 stop what we're saying is we have doubled the amount of light from 0 to 1 and I can prove this to you when I tap the shutter button I'm on a tripod so I'm okay shooting at slower shutter speeds it says 180th of a second right so watch what happens when we come in and we go to 1 again it tap the shutter button the shutter speed is 140th of a second so what's happened is the camera is allowing twice as much light to come into the sensor by taking a twice as long shutter speed 180th of a second plus 180th of a second is 280th of a second which is really one-fortieth of a second so my question to you is if we were to go to plus two what do you think that shutter speed would be think about it if you said one twentieth of a second you are absolutely right and we're letting in twice the amount of light again one twentieth of a second so long shutter speed it's gonna be tough to handhold and get still images so maybe we don't like it but for the sake of the example I'm gonna finish this if we go to plus three you notice the screen is getting brighter to come back out what do you think the shutter speed will be if you said one tenth of a second you're absolutely right and it also works in the other direction so to come back home we know this is one 80th of a second there it is so let's say this was too bright we wanted to make it darker all right exposure compensation one stop down so what do you think the shutter speed would be now we're using a shutter speed that's twice as fast it's a faster shutter speed if you said one hundred and sixtieth of a second you're absolutely correct and there it is if this is all you walk away from today you are well on your way this simple principle of exposure changing exposure compensation it's gonna be pretty much the main thing you're gonna going to be changing in terms of camera settings that's the settings that I change the most there's some other ones like white balance and your focusing squares obviously but you're always monitoring your exposure settings with your shutter speed and aperture so that's some really good information now let me point out a couple other little things we don't necessarily have to change it by touching on the screen there are going to be time you're going to be looking through the viewfinder and maybe you just want to change it on the fly so the way we do this is that we're going to push up on this little multi directional pad watch what happens to this orange guy up it jumps over to the exposure compensation bar and now we can tweak it in that way this is going to allow you to do it looking through the viewfinder a little bit more a little bit less something else I want to point out is that you'll notice that there are two little tick marks between the home plate and the one these represent third stops so 0 2 plus 1/3 2/3 and a full stop so we can dial in and change our exposure values by merely changing where that tick mark is ok about one-third stop intervals so that's the heart of the matter with aperture priority mode we decide the aperture the camera decides the shutter speed if we decide to use exposure compensation the camera is going to change the shutter speed and it's going to do it even when the light changes it's going to make those adjustments according and it's going to respect the changes that we request on that bar and that's why aperture priority is so powerful this is the one you're gonna shoot on the most I believe let's talk about shutter priority look what happened how funny we lost our aperture priority mode and we're now in shutter priority mode and we change the shutter speed guess what oh there's something interesting going on why is it changing the brightness so much hmm keep on rotating we'll get to a point there it is so there's something very interesting happening is the camera should be making adjustments to the aperture so if I tap the shutter button there it is you can see the changes and it's maintaining an even exposure right so what's going going to happen is as we get to the physical limits of the lens and how wide it can open we continue to go faster the aperture starts blinking what it's telling us is that this lens is maxed out it cannot open any wider and as we use a faster and faster shutter speed the camera there's no way for the camera to compensate for this and saying hey human I need some help help me out here this lens won't do what you're asking me to and it gets darker and darker right so again I'm gonna ask you if you are shooting a sporting event let's say you're shooting in shutter priority mode some people do for sports it's fine and you're shooting at one 500th of a second it's indoors and it's this is what you're getting for the exposure what would you do how would you fix this some of you are gonna say change your exposure compensation back down okay I'll do that it's still not enough how are we going to make this visible if you said turn your iso up you're absolutely correct there's different ways we could move this we could touch and drag and use the arrows so I push up now we're at 3200 we're almost in the ballpark yep four point five this would work so that is another important skill set is to use your ISO to adjust your basically boosting the light signal to make it more visible okay if you want the precise language very important skill set to know also very important to know the limits of your camera in terms of the ISO and the subject matter you're shooting sometimes it doesn't matter as much if you're shooting a bunch of trees sometimes it does matter so as you learn your camera cameras are like people to me the more I am around them and I shoot with them and I sometimes talk to them I start to you know learn their personality and you'll learn the personality of your camera in what its limits are in terms of the ISO so all the same rules apply here that we talked about earlier is that if we were to change the exposure compensation and let's say use negative one the camera will make the adjustments to the aperture so that's why shutter priority changes we dial in the shutter speed camera dials in the aperture all the same rules apply with exposure compensation we just need to make sure our lens can open that wide see it's not happy so we'd have to bump it up some more so that a shutter priority program mode is a little weird because you're going to notice the shutter speed and the aperture controls are both gone we just have our exposure compensation bar we can dial this in change our brightness and when we rotate the dial you can see that not much is happening in terms of the actual settings if we touch and press we can see the shutter speed in the app shirt now hey something is happening and this is the heart of the matter with program mode is that as you rotate this dial it is going to make different suggestions based on the amount of light coming into the camera it's not always what you see is what you get unless you push the shutter button so if you don't see this stuff you may not even know what you're shooting on so if you're on program mode definitely tap the shutter button and take a look at the settings it's giving you because it's gonna fade off and if you don't see it you can be shooting with some really wonky settings you know come down here like this 1:30 through the second F 25 and if you're trying to handhold dirt all your pictures are gonna be blurry and so this is why I'm not a huge fan of program mode is it's often very confusing the one time I recommend program mode is when we're using flash at an event where you're shooting lots of people and you're bouncing around quickly from different lighting situation to different lighting situation for Canon cameras P is the handheld flash mode that's something a lot of people don't know it basically ensures that you will have a shutter speed of at least one sixtieth of a second and you can shoot with an onboard flash in the background is not going to be all crazy so that is a powerful tool to know if you ever do flash photography especially for event shooting so now let's talk about manual mode I am a huge fan of manual mode I use it probably 25 to 30% of the time and because I use aperture priority mode so much these are tools you're not better or worse if you use aperture priority mode over manual or manual over aperture priority the way I deal with this is I ask myself the question do I have enough time to dial in both my shutter speed in my aperture if I don't have enough time if time is limited I'm usually on aperture priority mode if I'm shooting in a studio and we're controlling the light in the model in the art in the makeup and we have plenty of times then yes absolutely manual mode because you can dial it in you know exactly what you're getting every time and the camera isn't going to change anything so in manual mode a few really interesting things happen number one you're going to notice the exposure compensation bar is no longer active and that's because the camera will not be making changes so there's no exposure compensation in manual mode second thing is we get both the shutter speed and aperture controls with the control dial being locked on to the shutter speed so we can change the shutter speed and you're going to notice we get an immediate preview of the exposure the camera is not making any changes so this is what you see is what you get in the preview mode if we want to change the aperture where I'm going to push up on our exposure compensation button here watch what happens see how it toggles and so that is how you can change the shutter speed or the aperture through the viewfinder you can also touch on the screen change it here if you want but as you're shooting through the viewfinder it's very nice it's very fast and easy to just be able to push up and shoot some people love shooting off the back of monitor I do that for video on very bright days however you're gonna want to look through this ebf here and I think this is why I like the m50 over some of the earlier em mirrorless Canon cameras is that they didn't have a viewfinder it was just this back monitor and sometimes it's just a little hard to see when it's really bright so this is very very nice so in summary on manual mode is that we dial in the shutter speed the aperture ISO the camera makes no changes or adjustments to those settings again I'm shooting a via bout 70% of time manual mode probably about 25-30 percent of the time and that's it and the only other mode I touch is the video mode so in conclusion on the modes in the exposure controls we talked about each of the four most important modes I made my recommendations in terms of which ones AV and manual are the ones you should be focusing on we talked about changing the exposure settings in each we talked about exposure compensation and the bar indicator we talked about the philosophy of use and how the cameras measuring light in making these adjustments accordingly and I hope you guys enjoyed that it's a fundamental part of photography your homework for this lesson is to go into aperture priority mode take a picture of something change the exposure compensation and take another picture to make it brighter and then make it darker so even over and under three pictures and compare them if you master that one skill set today you are making tremendous progress let's talk about our cameras focusing systems can be very complex and confusing I like it to break it down in terms of the how the wind and the where how when and where if we can just think of it in this way this is going to be a lot easier so how does the camera focus 1/2 shutter button depression out of the box is what's going to engage the cameras focusing systems now there's a problem here is that as I push this halfway down I'm getting this MF in the top left hand corner if you see this that means manual focus because I've engaged this by pushing or bumping the af/mf button so we're going to make sure that that is turned on and as soon as we get there we autofocus and we see this box this box is basically telling us where the camera is focusing we'll talk about that in a second we have a touch monitor so makes it easy to move around but how does the camera focus with a halfway shutter button depression this is indicated with the green box and a beep pushing down all the way takes the picture it's a great exercise to try is just hear that beep hear the lock take a picture so the next part of this is when is the camera focusing this has to do whether it's a one time focus lock or whether or not this is a continuous focus so there's two modes that we have right here one shot or servo it's just like it sounds like one shot means you get focus lock once and you're good to go servo is a predictive focus the camera is going to try to predict where a moving subject will be by the time you push that shutter button down all the way this is ideal for sports shooting so in terms of the wind it's once we're over and over and over again now something about one shot I need to point out is that if you push and hold the shutter button halfway down that is going to lock the focus which means that if I let's say I have a person here and I want to and I want to get them to the side of the camera I can hold down and move the camera this is called recomposing I am recomposing the subject matter and then I push it down all the way to take the picture it's a very handy skill set to have most photographers for DSLR shooters they know how to how to do this so as an exercise I would recommend get on one shot mode push your shutter button halfway down keep it held down and recompose your subject matter to make it more aesthetically pleasing great tip it's called recomposing so I want to point out when we are in servo mode look what happens the box is now blue when the camera is telling us is that the focus is repeatedly engaging over and over and over again wherever remove the camera wherever that box is that is where the camera is readjusting the focus we cannot easily recompose in servo mode because the camera thinks we're looking at moving subjects and so recomposition only works on that one-shot mode so we can only lock focus on one shot with a halfway shutter button depression so when does the camera focus for on one shot it's just once if we're on servo it's over and over and over again next let's talk about the where this has to do with the cameras focusing clusters I say clusters because they refer to different boxes and the way we access those there's a couple ways I'm going to show you them to you in this Mintz go back to one shot but the focusing class right here we have autofocus face detection and tracking we have a zone cluster which is looking at a specific area and we have one point autofocus so when we're on one point autofocus this is basically a square we can touch on our monitor and move the square very very quickly anywhere we want we can also push the focus in cluster buttons basically what it is and this is going to allow us to push the menu button to change the size of the square if you want to be more precise if we push the info button it will recenter it or we can just touch on the screen so those are some additional single square controls for that particular cluster one more thing I need to show you is our main dial now controls a magnifier very useful if you want to jump in to focus I do this more with manual focusing we'll be talking about that in a second second with peaking but this is good stuff you can punch in it's just a magnification of the screen the image isn't gonna be that punched in so you're just magnifying it let's take a look at some of the zones come back out so the zone is looking at a larger area this is usually something I use for birds in flight and sports shooting because birds are moving so fast that I can only kind of get them into a general area and so it's looking within this restricted area for something contrasting it's noticing the target I put up and so those little green boxes are indicating the new focusing area when we push the focus in cluster button in this mode you're going to notice that all we can do is jump back to the center or we can zoom in if we use our control down so let's come back out and take a look at face detection and tracking so I'm gonna show you face detection in just a second but first I want to show you the tracking it's not perfect sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't it's trying to look for an area of contrast and because I'm on the single-shot mode it's not engaging the focusing systems it's just following the move of this high-contrast target that I've put up there and then so once it's moving around already to take the picture halfway shutter button depression and there we go right so on servo mode it's a little bit different the idea is that it should be tracking that subject over and over and over again let's see what happens with it there it goes cut it off and now it's confused so in a perfect world it's going to work great every time you know counting cameras this has improved over time but the truth of the matter is for for video shooting it's easily tricked when you're using a person's face however it is a completely different ballgame it's far better far more accurate than this tracking box but it's something you should definitely try and play around with let me put up a face target so we can see how that works so we have this amazing model who showed up and I am on the same mode the thing about this mode is it'll recognize a human face and it does very well tracking it's a very good mode so now if I push the shutter button halfway down you get the blue box and it's tracking it what if we wanted to just focus on this instead of the face would tap on it and again to engage the server we'd have to push shutter button half way down now this is different in the video mode I'll be demonstrating this in just a second but face and tracking mode allows us to designate whether we want a human face or not it is really good for portraits shooting so when we're in this focusing cluster something else I need to point out is that we have the option to select different faces so I'm gonna use my iPhone I literally just shaved my head recently I do this every once well here's another picture of me right so if I wanted to select this face we're telling the camera which face to select and then it would try to follow that specific face this is a very cool feature and you can see that the focusing is changing as I'm moving this around so even though it doesn't appear like it's doing something see how it jumped it's still focusing you're going to notice the light is changing too what's happening is the camera is metering specifically from the target area and it's making adjustments to the shutter speed based on what it sees here and so as I move it away it's very precise it's pretty good in terms of the size of it at some point it'll it'll lose it completely there it goes but I have shot with many Canon cameras over the years it's gotten much better this is like a pre focus and then when you're ready to shoot there it is if we go into the one shot let's see if it does a better job tracking there I am yeah it's good it's getting a pre focus that's what it's doing and then when you're ready to shoot there it is so that's some behind the scenes of how that works so let's talk about eye detection eye detection is going to allow the camera to dial in on a specific I of a person to enable it you're going to have to come into the read tab page six eye detection autofocus we're going to want this on enable coming back out shutter button so the way this works is the camera needs a certain amount of real estate to see the person's you can see that as I'm zooming in there's a box jumping on to my left IR we see it as a right I push shutter button halfway down and the camera is locked on to the eye so that is eye detection a very powerful tool we see it in other camera systems especially if you are shooting at very wide apertures okay so like 2.8 2.0 if you're shooting with a very very wide aperture lens we want the eyes of our subject to being focus and this is a very powerful tool for portraits something you're going to notice is that as we come over to the video mode we lose the eye detection and so this is only a still shooting mode only so I've changed the targets up a little bit because I want to demonstrate the manual focusing tools there's a couple different ways we can do this so a very powerful technique that we can talk about for video is pulling focus using the touch monitor in fact let's let's do that real quick I'm gonna jump over to you're going to notice that we got this crop that were punched in it's because we're shooting at 4k we'll get a little bit of a crop so I'm going to demonstrate this on Full HD and they fit you're going to notice this servo auto focus green dot basically what that means is the camera is going to be adjusting the focus based on what's selected in a very common technique in Hollywood is something called pulling focus or to rack your focus basically tells the camera to look at a specific point when you want to shift the interest of the viewer to something going on obviously we turn the sound off but in the past this could only be done using a certain type of gear wheel that you would put on the lens and you'd have a camera operator do it in this touchscreen interaction Canon with the Canon 70d really is the one who pulled it off successfully it eliminates the need for all these extra accessories you can literally pull focus by touching on the monitor it's very smooth it's very impressive even on the m50 this is something special how well this does this if you do not want the camera to change the focus and you want to keep it locked you could do that it's going to allow you to designate the area but it is not focusing that's what the gray box means and we can turn it back on so I wanted to demonstrate that difference for video coming back out if we go into the Q menu you can see that we still have all of our same clusters I like the square a little bit more it's a little bit more precise if we push the cluster bar you can see that this is changing the info it's not really you can only Center it doesn't give us a smaller box these are some subtle differences between shooting video the truth of the matter is often in the video you are not going to want to use any focus you're gonna be on manual focus in a technique that I've been doing is what I'll do is I'll touch to focus I know it's focused there and then I turn it off this is essentially manual focus we know we're dialed in we can even push the switch over so we know this is not going to change in the early days of this was something the only way you could do it because the camera would be jumping around everywhere and changing focus so often when I'm vlogging I'll be on manual focus but the truth of the matter is the m50 is so good with its face tracking you could leave it on your face tracking your face detection come back in go face and that's a pretty good setup for vlogging it would be framed obviously a little different you know depending on how you're framing it very powerful very good it's as good as anything I've seen in higher cameras it's really pretty impressive it's right in that league coming back out to still shooting I want to show you a couple more techniques I'm trying to give you guys as much as I can in terms of the operation of the camera is there's a technique that I refer to as manual zoom focus so we pick an area we come into manual focus when we get our zoom so that zoom box punched in and we're on the wrong side of what we want to see so this is going to allow us to use the front zoom ring and dial this in precisely so we're looking for the sharp edge of the tape there a couple other things is again we can rotate in and out zoom in look how close we can punch in 10 times we can recenter by pressing the info button jump out but I want to show you another tool that's really powerful here it is this guy right here manual focus peaking settings I like red I'm gonna show you what it is but we need to turn it on first very subtle it's there it's this red outline so what peaking does is that when we are in the manual mode it's going to give us a red outline of the areas of highest contracts so if we zoom in we can see that contrast again now I'll show you how to get around what this problem is having it disappears okay so keep that in mind is that you can I hope you guys can see it it's right there we can change the color of it if we wanted to let's go with blue very faint very hard to see it's there though and then when we toggle back out to our regular autofocus mode it disappears look at my face you can see it now probably shows up a little better over there most cameras when you zoom in it maintains the peaking control and as far as what I'm seeing right now we're kind of locked to it without the zoom which is fine you can still see it just know that the contrast isn't always the most precise focus but this is very helpful especially when you're shooting like on a field and you want to know exactly where that the depth of field is put it on blue you'll see it right away so that is peaking so for the focusing we have talked about the different techniques to how the wind the where we've talked about the clusters we've talked about moving the clusters we've talked about face detection tracking servo for video pulling focus we've talked about peaking focus manual focus zoom those are tons of great techniques that you will use time and again let's get into talking about white balance and I am shooting pure white blinds in my living room and I love using these blinds because it allows me to demonstrate what this means white balance essentially allows the camera to know the type of light we're shooting it our eyes are very good at adjusting to sunlight or fluorescent light or LED lights cameras cannot do this as easily as human beings because human beings have very complex and sophisticated eyeballs for the most part you're going to be using something called auto white balance we're giving the camera permission to figure out what the best bounce settings are for the light we're shooting in but you will notice on the bottom here we have all these other icons one's a Sun icon let's go ahead and touch and see what happens what's a shade what's a cloud then we have a tungsten bulb and it you can see it turned really really blue if fluorescent light flash custom white balance Kelvin even great tool if you are a pure beginner or even intermediate shooter I'd say stick with auto white balance when you are shooting on auto white balance and you get into a situation where the camera the the feeling and the mood is either like blue or it's a little bit too yellow what's happening is the camera is shooting in light that it's not properly dialed in for so if you're shooting outdoors the idea is that you would have the Sun icon if you're shooting in the shade the idea is you have a shade icon if you are shooting under cloud cover and so on and so forth so the short answer is you want to be shooting in the light temperature that corresponds with these icons so if you're shooting with a flash you'd use the flash icon that's the short answer there is a longer answer on the crash course where I go into the philosophy of use and how white balance has different temperatures it's a little confusing and it takes a little bit of amount of time if you watch that you're going to know exactly how it works let's talk about real quick how to adjust custom white balance custom white balance essentially means is that we take a picture of something and we're telling the camera this is white so how do we designate this well we took the picture we're gonna come into the menu we're going to find white balance we're going to go to custom white balance and we're going to hit set so what we're doing is we're telling the camera to use that picture of the white blinds as its ref it's hit okay and then when we come back out make sure that we're set on custom white balance and look how clean and nice that is so that is very useful if you are shooting in mixed lighting conditions like in a wedding and the color you just can't get it right so the idea is you take a picture of something why it could be a bride's dress it could be a tablecloth it could be a wall and you tell the camera this is white and the camera should respect that now the moment you move into a different lighting condition this is going to change the color it's off often referred to as the temperature but video ographers people who are recording very useful to custom white balance and mixed lighting conditions and there's one more that's also super useful is the Kelvin white balance right here Kelvin white balance if we want to set the color temperature we're going to push the cluster button and this is kind of getting into the philosophy of use a little bit the short on it is color temperature is rated on a kelvin scale - usually like 26 2700 all the way up in some cases to 10,000 just depends on the camera there it is you're going to notice it's very blue what's happening is when you set the Kelvin temperature to 2500 we're telling the camera to add blue because 2500 is typically very yellow light it's counterintuitive this is why this appears so blue if we tell the camera to use a higher Kelvin temperature come into here you're going to notice it's going to start getting more and more yellow so the camera is doing the opposite it's adding more yellow light to counteract the blue temperature that's what you're seeing most light sources have a Kelvin reading 5600 is typically daylight and you can see it's a little yellow ish so I'm going to come down a little bit more I'm using LEDs that I think are set to 4600 something like that and you can see it's very white so that's what's going on with color temperature is we have these presets for specific situations we can custom white balance and we can also Calvin white balance but I'll have a special section for this on the crash course something else you're going to see is that we can tweak and shift the white balance color this is something I would just recommend stay away from yeah I don't think it's necessary at this point focus on custom white balance cattlemen white balance in the icons so that is white balance let's talk about the cameras metering system if you remember the example when we're talking about exposure is that the camera is constantly measuring light coming through the lens you can see the shutter speed changing so I've set up a headlamp right here if we come into our menu we have these metering modes and there's four of them the easiest way for me to explain this is with the spot metering mode so when we select this and come out what you're going to notice is that we have this little circle just above the focusing square right here kind of hard to see so what we're telling the camera the spot metering mode is to only measure light coming from this little circle so if I tap the shutter button watch what happens to the shutter speed in aperture priority mode the cameras looking in this circle for brightness information off to the side of the lamp we're at one 125th of a second and as I move over the bright light shutter speed changes so the heart of the matter with the metering modes is that we're telling the camera to look in different places to measure light when we come back out I typically get beginners on the evaluative metering mode it looks at the entire frame but there's also some measurement I believe of color information on the focusing square because you can see it also changes depending on where we are focusing and this is a good general purpose one to start when we look at something like the partial metering mode come back out you can see that that center circle from the spot metering mode has grown so we're just using a larger area this would be ideal if you're for example shooting portraits with backlight coming into the corners and we're telling the camera hey just look mainly in this center area evaluated with the square is also good it really depends on what you're doing if that's not working you can always go to manual mode and just dial it in so the exposure doesn't change at all it's something that I do a lot and then finally the last one I'm always bumping the wrong menus because I got a touch with the side of my finger and the last one is the center weighted average which essentially is going to expand the circle it's going to evaluate everything but it's looking at a bigger area so those are the metering modes and the ones again I recommend to start off with are the evaluative and the spot metering until you get a hang of it and by then you'll probably start switching over to manual when you get in those situations to really control exposure another technique I need to demonstrate in relation to metering modes is the ability to lock your exposure once you're happy with the preview so let's say you're shooting a portrait and you're focused on a person and you're happy with it and you do not want the exposure settings to change you're at one 660 Athan f5 that's where this button comes in this top little star button which is referred to as the exposure lock if you're using a flash it is going to be the flash exposure lock button all you need to do is press this so I'm going to tap the shutter button so you can see one sixtieth 162 the second when you push that you see you get a little star in the bottom left-hand corner and when I change and move it around you can see that the metering of the camera is now locked so that is the exposure lock button it is going to lock your exposure in the program aperture priority or shutter priority mode manual mode is exposure lock so this doesn't apply to manual mode let's talk about the cameras built-in flash it's not very large and it's very close to the lens which is why I'm not a huge fan of it however if you are in a jam when you're shooting let's say a friend with heavy back light and you want just a little bit of fill this can really come in handy to activate your flash all you need to do is grab it on the sides and lift it up come over to your directional pad push to the right and you just get two options flash off or flash on and at this point the flash is on this is gonna be way too bright it's gonna over expose the image for sure it's how bright it is actually not too bad and we will talk about using a speed light and on board speed light on the full crash course where we get in and talk about all the different concepts you know it's like a half hour forty minute crash course to show you how to use a real full-size flash and the concepts and the philosophy of use things of that nature but in this video all you really need to know is that when you're using the flash you can also control the power see how bright it's it's overexposed it's too bright so what we're going to do is come into the black information screen we talked about earlier press the Q button we're gonna come over here to flash exposure compensation you can see I have it turned up we're going to turn that down to zero and this is set up the same way as regular exposure compensation where these numbers represent stops so a zero or an even exposure means the camera is going to try to get it even the flash exposure even and if you wanted to make it brighter you would turn it up so let's just go ahead and do that let's come back out to our info screen still a little bit too bright so let me demonstrate this in manual so the camera's not changing anything and what I'm going to do is artificially make this darker by using a shutter speed of 1/2 hundredth of a second now you'll notice that when I get there it doesn't want to let me go faster than one two hundredth of a second the reason is is that is the camera's max sync speed so when you're using flash the fastest shutter speed you can use is one two hundred five second and this is because we have a first shutter that opens in a second shutter that closes and when you get to one 200th of a second what happens is we get this traveling slit is that to use faster shutter speeds they start moving like that and so if you were able to shoot with a faster shutter speed you'd start to see the image being clipped out so what I'm going to do is are officialy turn this down a little bit and you'll notice the exposure didn't change the camera is is giving me a preview because I have my flash up turn my flash down now it's saying up it's too dark just measuring the ambient light as soon as you pull that flash up this changes everything for the exposure preview what's happening is the camera temporarily halts live you in order for you to see what you're shooting potentially in a dark situation so the camera can focus things of that nature so let's take a picture and see what happens should be darker yeah that's that's about what you would expect to get and you can see it's actually a very different look the ambient light is darker but I'm still exposed properly let's say I was too bright in this kind of a situation we need to come back into our cue screen to access flash exposure compensation we'll turn it down just one stop we'll compare those this is actually a really good exercise if you guys want to get the hang of it and you can see there is a very subtle difference between these two let's say the second one was too dark all right the problem let's come back out to our cue screen come back out to flash exposure this is turn it up all the way take a picture here should be way brighter yep there it is so on playback I'm gonna toggle the info button and you can see that I am way overexposed but that is the concept in the heart of the matter with flash exposure compensation is that you can control the power of it and determine the brightness of your subject one important note is that your flash ability is dependent on distance so as your subject gets further and further away this is going to be less and less effective it's also doesn't have a lot of power so if you need something with more firepower you're gonna want to get an external flash so in terms of external speed lights good knockoff version made by go Doc's Canon has the flagship ones you can spend for the X 600 r/t version - you can spend up to four fifty five hundred dollars and everything in between I usually teach with the full-size knockoff versions because they have pretty much as much power and as many features as the full-size cannon one either that or it'll be the full-size cannon flash so that is a quick crash course on using your internal built-in flash so now that we've covered most of the basic shooting features of the camera real quick I wanted to talk about video because the menu items are going to change a little bit once we flip over and see that now we're way overexposed or ISOs too bright let's turn this down to 100 200 it's a few different things in here that we need to point out is when you are shooting depending on the frames per second you'd have to pay attention to your shutter speed so we can find out the resolution in frames per second by coming to this third item on the left in the Q screen so when we go to this this screen if I press the Q button we get all of our different resolutions here on the bottom and they have different numbers and letters and so what what are those mean real quick let's talk about it 4k we get the pixel resolution right there is 3840 pixels wide by 2160 pixels tall then we get the number of frames per second which is 24 and that is what the industry standard is for motion pictures films so if you wanted to shoot something cinema like you would shoot at 24 frames per second it also tells you the amount of time remaining if we go to Full HD you can see that the resolution changes and now we have a lot more time to shoot and we're shooting at 60 frames per second we can also shoot at 30 frames per second which is the video standard in the difference between 60 and 30s all obviously twice as many frames but the reason why this is important is if you shoot at 60 frames per second and you playback at 30 frames per second things are gonna be slowed down twice as much this is how slow motion happens is when you capture in higher frame rates some cameras will let you shoot as high as 180 or 240 frames per second and then you slow that down in the editing and it looks really cool we can also shoot twenty-four frames per second with standard definition and then we also have the 60 frames per second at 720 which is a lower resolution so I don't really use this a lot another important thing to note is that when we go to 4k you're going to see it magnify a little bit and this is referred to as a crop factor so when we're shooting Full HD we're using the entire sensor when we're using 4k we're punching in just a little bit and this has to do with how the camera is sampling information it can't sample the full size frame fast enough for the processor to deal with it's a lot of intensive calculating and so in order to make it easier the camera is looking at the more central part of the frame that's that's what's happening when we're in 4k I typically like to shoot in 4k we're shooting this in 4k right now because it gives me some options in post-production I can punch in I can zoom out and if you're just getting started I think my advice would be to stick with Full HD for now at 30 frames or 24 frames per second if you're shooting for YouTube go for 30 frames per second until you get the hang of it another consideration is how fast your computer is because these are very processor heavy intensive files so you may want to shoot a short clip in 4k 24 frames per second and just see how your computer handles it but if I if I'm doing something important and I need to move in around I'm always shooting in 4k some of these other things like the focusing clusters you see we lose the zone we just have a spot and then face or the tracking when we come up to the movie mode and you're also gonna see this the first time you go into the movie mode it's going to ask you do you want manual movie or regular movie and the thing is I do not want you guys using this one I want using the manual movie mode mode because this is going to allow us to determine the shutter speed and the aperture with this one the camera is going to be making changes to the to those exposure settings so if you're doing a run-and-gun type video work probably better but most of the time 80% 85% of time I'm on manual exposure settings because I get to dial in exactly what I want so that's the difference between those two guys we have our manual controls something else to note is that your shutter speed should be about twice the frame rate so if I'm shooting at 30 frames per second I want to be at one sixtieth of a second that's going to give me a film like look it's a lot to go into but the short is double your frames per second if you're going for a film like look it's a little bit too dark so I can come in here and adjust that a little bit this is why I like manual looks like I'm still in the 4k mode come to a resolution we'll go for 30 frames come back out something else we're going to talk about is the audio levels in just a second let's see what else we got in here these movie effects they can be fun they're kind of gimmicky we have our auto light optimizer for video we have our picture styles picture styles essentially and this is the same for video as well as stills it allows us to adjust contrast saturation sharpness things of that nature and we can even come in and tweak each of those settings here this is something I kind of turned beginners away from it's more of an almost beginning of an advanced kind of thing so just enjoy your camera for now shoot for now on the auto picture style but the idea is is that certain colors will be shifted in favor of your subject matter so if you are shooting portraits the flesh tones are supposed to be more accurate if you're shooting landscapes your blues and greens are going to pop more things of that nature and you know or more sharpness for fine detail maybe a little bit new more neutral and videographers are very heavy into tweaking these they'll turn down their contrast will turn down their sharpness and that's something that would come into play for for video is you want to try to get it as close as you can in camera because we don't have raw video on you know rm50 you can shoot raw stills but you cannot shoot raw video and the video is a form jpgs so it makes more it's a lot more important to eat your white balance and your picture styles dialed in correctly and again we all obviously want our white balance dialed in as best we can I mean it looks good for me right now I'm pretty happy with this shooting video something you have to know is there there are built-in microphones in the front you can see the little ports for them they're not the best so if you're looking to do high quality vlogging work you're going to want to get an external microphone that you would put on the top there are rode shotgun microphones you can get for about a hundred and fifty bucks you can get used ones all day long for less than a hundred dollars it's gonna make a huge difference I like to use lavell your mics I'm using one right now he's the Sennheiser II won hundreds and I've been using them for years because I can get the microphone close to me otherwise any time you touch the camera or move the camera around those sounds are gonna be picked up by the internal microphone so external microphone plugged into the side port we do not have headphones on the m50 so you'll have to do some testing to make sure it works but one thing you can do is let's see if we get those audio levels poppin up there's that there they are so you can see our audio levels in here and this black info screen has changed a little bit so to access some of these we're gonna press Q and right now I have it on a and as I'm talking you can see these little red dots here those are bad that means your audio is too loud and it's clipping out another thing that's bad is the a for automatic we're gonna want that on manual so we come into the sound recording I'm going to select this and go to manual and the difference between these two is manual allows us to adjust the gain level for the microphone and we're gonna turn this down watch what happens to the bars on the bottom as I'm talking see how it's getting lower and lower still clipping out what's bad I would probably shoot around something like this where a normal voice could bounce up into the yellow range but very loud noises would obviously clip out this is going to capture all of my audio profile in the quality of the sounds going to be better so any kind of serious video work that has good audio definitely put it on manual and adjust your gain accordingly let's take a look at some of these other menu items real quick I changed my and put that back on auto the attenuator wind filter and attenuator so it doesn't really help a whole lot I think the idea is that this is to help block wind out I usually turn it off here's the attenuator right here this is help to help dampen the sound if you turn it on you notice how the levels go down significantly if you turn it off altogether it comes up I think it's it's fine just to turn this off unless you're in a situation where you really need to dampen your sound and you turn it down more then you turn it on not a huge fan of the audio in 10 you ater or the auto my game because what happens is you start getting these fluctuations and sound and you can't really control it and so when it's quiet the camera thinks oh my microphone isn't sensitive enough and it turns up the gain and so when the person starts talking it's too loud and then the camera goes oh it's too loud and it turns and so there's this constant fluctuation it's quite maddening so this is why we like to keep it on manual so now we're going to start getting into the deep menu and then we're going to be talking about Wi-Fi setup before we wrap this up the deep menu can be accessed with the bottom-right-hand button right here menu and I don't have enough time to go through everything but I am going to show you the most important things that you need to know it's kind of like a quick crash course on the deep menu again on the full crash course I go through pretty much everything and the truth of the matter is you're only going to use about 20% of the things that you use in here the other 80% very rarely on the top we have a red tab and remember if you don't see this screen come here and go to the menu display and pick standard I'm not a fan of the guided stuff so read tab is for shooting blue is for playback yellow are the camera settings and in this green in the back is the my menu so what you're going to notice is that every tab has different pages and that's what these numbers are so we have pages 1 through 8 for shooting and we have multiple for play and so on and so forth in the first read tab the most important things in here are your image quality you can change that as we demonstrated from our cue menu it's going to allow us to choose between raw and JPEG you can see the resolution change as we pick smaller file sizes if you're a pure beginner stay on smooth JPEG if you're shooting something with mixed lighting conditions in your comfortable learning processing shoot in RAW you're also going to see it's going to allow us to use both at the same time pretty important setting I would say aspect ratio keep it on 3 by 2 for now we have our review time lens aberration correction allows the camera to fix certain mistakes and you can see that we have all these different options in here you notice it sees the lens we're using we can fix distortion come in here and enable that as well and essentially what this is doing is it's applying a digital filter or correction to the images that we take according to the lens we're using I think it's a good idea cuz it's gonna make your images look better we have our flash control come in here look at all the different settings we have even for the little flash that we have and this is a lot of information we have our external flash we'll cover that on the full crash course drive mode what the camera does after you push your shutter button down all the way we already saw this on the Quick Menu and let's go to single this is a different place you can choose it if you don't like navigating with a touch which I do I think it's amazing you just got to get it right you can also use your directional pad you want to be a little bit more precise exposure compensation I've seen this before we can touch on the monitor we can push left and right what is a EB auto exposure bracketing allows us to tell the camera to take multiple images and change the exposure between each of those so if I rotate my primary dial you're going to see these tick marks break off and what that this tells us is the camera is now going to take three images one with a negative to value in terms of exposure and even value and then plus two stops of exposure we can also push to the left and right and shift that bracket around this is pretty good for shooting HDR images that you're going to stack in Photoshop probably a little bit more of an advanced technique but if you use this with a timer the camera will take all three and you won't have to touch it and it'll be a nice shake it's something you should know about at some point if you do any kind of serious landscape shooting and you're trying to capture very bright highlights with very dark shadows ISO speed settings we can choose our current I so we can also choose the maximum for our auto ISO why would you want to use auto ISO well if you have really aggressive changing lighting conditions and you don't want to change your ISO all the time you can just come into I press the m FN button and press info and now we're on auto not a huge fan of it but it's there if you're just getting started we have our ISO speed settings for video pretty much the same stuff auto lighting optimizer highlight tone priority we talked about metering modes the metering timer is how long your shutter speed aperture will be displayed in certain views exposure simulation definitely leave this on this gives us a preview of what we're shooting in if you turn this off or if you're in the flash mode the camera is going to change the brightness of the monitor it's not going to give you a preview white balance and custom white balance we've covered like shift and bracketing we briefly skimmed over I'd say stay away from it for your beginner color space you're going to one on srgb for now if you shoot you know something for a magazine and you need Adobe RGB color gamut you would change this picture styles we've talked about long exposure noise reduction if you're shooting images over one second probably good idea to turn it on high ISO speed noise reduction I think this is a standard is a pretty good place to start as you increase your ISO you're going to get more and more grain this is going to help reduce some of that dust delete data is something I pretty much stay away from I'm a big believer of cleaning sensors and knowing how to do that and I will demonstrate that on the crash course touch shutter we saw it allows us to take an image as we touch on the monitor as it focus touch and drag auto focus settings essentially means that when we are looking through the viewfinder and we're in the viewfinder is a mirror of what we see on the back monitor if you were to put your eye in here you would see this screen touch and drag auto focus means that as we are looking through the viewfinder we can use the back monitor to change the position of our focusing square as we look through the viewfinder most cameras have a joystick over here you know DSLR isn't and that's what we're manipulating to change the position of the focusing square mirrorless cameras especially canons let us touch the monitor while we're looking through the viewfinder it's very fast my problem is I'm a left eye shooter and so my my nose is right here and so if I touch with my nose here I'm constantly hitting it and so the way to do this is to pull your eye off of it just a little bit so touch and drag settings if you turn that on that will work you can also use the entire screen or you can just drag it relatively you can also determine what part of the monitor you want to be active whether it's just this right side or this left side the top right the top or the bottom right if you know for left eye shooters bottom right it's probably going to be the way to go but pretty awesome that you can control what part is active or not very nice page six autofocus stuff we've covered in the auto focusing lesson eye detection it's turned off right now because it doesn't like the thing I'm using so we come back to face detection should turn on there it goes continuous auto focus auto focus mode we've talked about all these things as they're just different places we can choose it page seven the most important thing is peaking for manual focus image stabilization settings turn it on let's see here what else we got we have our movie quality sound record talked about movie servo that's that little green dot icon over here that we have on the screen and in movie mode the button folks function is asking what you want the button to do in video mode so if we if we don't want it to meet her you can have it as a one-shot autofocus or we can just have it metering because when we're in a movie mode we have the video record button it's asking what do you want this your shutter button to do so if I'm not mistaken auto slow shutter if you're in the manual mode this isn't going to matter but I think what this applies to is that when you shoot video see here from the stills mode it's going to allow us to adjust or let a lot of camera to adjust some of the settings in darker situations basically you're asking for the camp the camera for some help so you can shoot video from your stills mode and that's gonna happen sometimes they'll be shooting stills and you want a quick video and you don't want to flip it over to video mode but Auto slow shutter is automatically going to make some adjustments when it's low light and by the way we're going to turn that off so that's those are the most important things in the red tab the most critical things then we come into the playback a lot of this stuff is things you're never going to use like photo book set up the creative filters I'm not a fan of I never use print i erase images usually right after I take them if they're really really bad and I know it I'll delete them otherwise I wait until I get it on a computer you can rotate your image in camera you can protect them with a key icon there's some RAW processing we're gonna skip through most of the stuff so if you wanted to do some RAW processing and up from the back of your camera you could redeye reduction is good for flash if you take a picture and the person's eyes are all red you turn that on its gonna going to fire a pre flash you can crop and resize your images in camera something I don't really do in camera at least rating allows you to put a star rating on an image and when you import this to Photoshop or Lightroom those star ratings will be respected so it's something that can speed up your workflow so if you really love this picture you would come in and you can give it five stars or one or whatever set that you can pick a range of images here's our first one and then you can give all these star ratings if you want to select multiple ones you can select all the images in the folder or a card so and then you'd go through and apply star rating to all of them so that's your thing I mean that's the way to do it let's see what happens when you come back in and so they all have you can see thirty-six of them have it have the star rating of one so you applied it to all of them just come back through here playback information display is something yeah you're gonna want this we talked about this briefly where we can control what information is being shown with different settings and you can see a little preview for each of those items there's a lot of stuff in here autofocus point display on playback I leave this turned off if it was turned on you would see a little red square where you were focusing view from last scene if I'm not mistaken that allows us to see the information screen that we last used so if we were shooting and we pressed info it should pull up the last information screen we had selected so already coming into the camera settings so select folder means that we can have multiple folders on our card and we can choose which one we were adding images to if you want to create a new folder you just touch create folder hit OK and it's going to give you a new folder the only time I've ever used this is really when I'm doing multiple shoots throughout a day like one in the morning one in the afternoon one of the evening I don't really do a lot of those anymore but if I wanted to keep those images separate this would allow me to do so I leave my file numbering on continuous that means the file number is going to community can you go higher and higher with every shot auto-rotate this is the option I use it's going to rotate the images for us format card very important is that when you put a new card into your camera you're going to want to format it if you do this all images are going to be erased but at the very very beginning of using a card in a camera definitely format them cancel those we're talking about Wi-Fi in just a second GPS there are some ways to pull global positioning satellite data from images into the camera it's asking to do this from your mobile device if you turn this on I say generally do not do this because of the drain on the battery and the batteries are pretty small already so let's see what else we got in here critical stuff power saving brightness timezone language hopefully you're an English speaker if you're watching this but so many different languages most of the stuffs pretty straightforward since there's anything different we'll cover sensor cleaning resolution output HDR so if you want to record HDR video you're going to need an HDMI recorder for this resolution HDR output ok sensor beep if you're not a fan of the beeping we could turn that off here and we're beeping shooting information display we talked about this a little bit we can control different types of information that are appearing when we are shooting so if you wanted to adjust those if you find your info toggle settings same thing how information is appearing in the viewfinder great display blight and brightness reset ok those are all pretty straightforward custom function settings on page 5 we have not a lot of them but ISO expansion if you want to get more iso you would turn this on you know it's going to be pretty noisy when you do that just so you know safety shift never use it disable release shutter without lens sometimes people want to take a picture without the lens on if you're using adapted lenses that do not communicate this is where you would turn it on retract the lens on power off certain lenses will do that the default is enable so page 5 there's a lot of good stuff in here and the truth of the we can customize certain buttons the one button that I think we should never customize is the MF n because that gives you direct ISO control but the way this works is it's telling you different buttons and it's going to allow us to change what they do so if we did want to change that the MF n would come in here and see we get this overview we can see the white dot selected and so if we wanted to do something other than ISO look at all the options we have so many different options we can have it be a movie mode of flash firing but we're not given a lot of buttons to change and ISO is pretty important but look at all the different options we can have right so if you don't like it as your ISO button you can change it the button that I think the two buttons that I think that you might want to customize are the exposure lock where we can turn this into a back button focusing for sports the way this works is you come in here and you turn it to autofocus it's not metering hit OK and then would come to our shutter button and turn this to metering only if you do that you're going to be set up to use your exposure lock button for focusing this is referred to as back button focusing it's far more popular for sports so you can engage focusing from here and shoot with your shutter button and it separates the focus from taking the picture there's a lot of people who love to shoot that way I'm gonna leave it on the basic set up for now but you can see that you can customize most the buttons differently I like the rests the way they're set up so one button that we're not using when we're shooting is the garbage can icon and you'll notice that the blue playback and the garbage can are also blue this means that the garbage can setting is for playback so when we're shooting what this means is the garbage can icon doesn't do anything right now so we can come in here if there was a setting that you wanted to have quick access to I would recommend the drive mode which is what the camera does after you push the shutter button down all the way right and so if we come out now we're shooting here here are the drive modes just by pushing down and that's the idea that customizations will go into a little bit more detail on the course on that we can clear the settings we have our copyright information which allows us to embed our name or the year the copyright information we can put in our URL which is very cool certification logo displays is showing these symbols we have our firmware version so if we needed to update the firmware we would do that here it also gives us the software information for the lens and so certain times canons going to come out and say hey we have a better software for the lens and there's a way to update it coming in to the many displays we talked about this the my menu tab pretty important it allows us to add our favorite items the one that I like to add typically is the format one so that first it wants you to add your own tab there it is and we're going to configure this and we're going to select items to register so the one that I use almost all the time is format and then sometimes I'll put quality there because those are really the two that I I go to a lot there it is format card we're gonna say okay another one that I really like let's come back out come back in image quality okay and so what this allows us to do is to add items to this green customisable tab so we don't have to go digging through the whole menu every time we want to find them they're right there it's very nice we can sort them if I wanted format card below image quality I could do that come back out we can delete them individual ones we delete all of them to leave the tab we can rename the tab so that's the heart of the matter with my menu so that is your quick overview of the deep menu system and I hope you enjoyed it let's talk about Wi-Fi and connecting to our smart phone you're going to notice I moved some space over here we have a button on the side of our camera that looks like a little radio signal and that is your direct Wi-Fi or wireless communication button if you push that it takes us straight into the yellow now I want to demonstrate how you can find this in the menu it's on the first page on the bottom wireless menu Wi-Fi settings we can come in here and enable so that button is a shortcut to get you to the menu section and it's I like it I think it's awesome so so if we want to access it quickly there it is we're gonna come in here and we're going to hit enable the cameras going to say it wants us to create a nickname for this so I'll just put mm next to it in the case there's other cameras around so the settings screen will close after saving okay we want to connect to a smart phone we're going to register to a device for connection I'm going to be using an iPhone 10 and I'm it guesses QR code I'm going to show you how to do it through the Wi-Fi so essentially at this point what I've done is I've turned the camera into its own Wi-Fi hub and I'm gonna get my smart phone side-by-side so you can see this so in order to control our camera with our smart phone you're going to need to download the canon camera connect app none of this is gonna work without this app you should have it on Android as well I'm going to demonstrate on an iPhone so download that app before you do this walkthrough so once we've turned the Wi-Fi network on on the camera we're going to come into our settings for Wi-Fi and we should see the camera on here somewhere here it is m50 canon I'm gonna hit that one and it's going to ask for a password which is given right here on the bottom this is for my specific camera I'm not worried about you guys stealing it just you know unless you're you're like my friend you live next door probably not gonna worry about it and I'm gonna join the network and then so once I'm connected I'm going to open the Canon Connect app where's that thing there it is turn on bluetooth till I'll connect to connect to accessories we're hit ok so it's looking for the camera here it is Canon m50 once you hit that you're going to have to get ok on the camera and let them talk to each other they're going to become friends saying disconnect when you're ready so we're almost there so so we're in business now so when we're talking about canons camera Connect app once we're in there are two features in here that I like more than the others remote live view shooting and images on camera images on camera are going to allow you to view the images that you took that are on the camera on your smartphone now you can change the view into grid view I kind of like having the information here and seeing the date time exposure settings you can filter them in different ways date range file types very nice if you're trying to navigate if you want to change the order you can do that as well really pretty awesome so one thing I want to point out is that when you come up here to save image size we're telling the camera to save the images to the phone do you want it to be a reduced size do you want to be the original size or do you want to select when you're saving gives you these options and so a lot of camera users want the images right away to their smart phone to upload on to Instagram or Facebook you don't need the full size resolution for that so you might want to just choose something like reduced this only applies to JPEG so that's very nice the second thing in here in this setting is to delete location information and I think by default that's a good idea because if you import images with data information and you send that image to somebody there is a way to pull the GPS position out of the images so I think leaving it on delete is a good idea so we have some of those settings in there and basically this is how we can view engine to come in and view the image you can give it us you can check it look at your information here on the bottom you can give it a star rating that would be respected in Photoshop or Lightroom you could download the image now it's downloading to my smartphone so if you just wanted to download individual images that's how you would do it you could send it to your printer if you wanted to you could delete it obviously pretty straightforward in terms of navigating images so the cool part of this is the remote live view shooting so you're going to notice that we go into this live view we are going to be able to control certain aspects of the camera from a smartphone it's very nice you're going to notice that we have a stills and a video icon at the top so whichever one is selected is the mode wherein you can see it's changing over here and for vloggers this is kind of nice because it gives you a remote that you can start and stop video recording we get our audio levels we get the time recording here we have camera settings that we can come in touch autofocus we can do live view magnification with a double tap we can get a mirror live view display there's a lot of very nice cool things we can rotate it it's one of the better apps that I've seen in terms of video recording you want to focus and I tested that I was testing this the other day was a little finicky let's see if it'll it'll it keeps me locked out yeah so some of the other settings here are on the bottom we have our white balance we have the focusing mode that we want to use it's looking for a face detection so we can go come over here and you're going to notice that when I double tap it it jumps in single tap should change the focusing position we can change our resolution we have microphone settings seriously it's awesome this is a great little app for video feature if you want to turn the servo focus on or off so there's a lot of really really great options in terms of the settings for video coming into the stills option same thing single tap should move the focusing square you can see it's engaging focus we got a green focus lock there if not you can press the autofocus side button here slide over to take the picture so push to autofocus slide to take the picture if we come into our settings we have our shutter speed we can change remotely it's very nice ISO we have our Y balance control and our focusing cluster and then our drive types if you wanted to do a timer ten-second timer really great it's awesome it's wonderful see we can view the images that we just took it would be fun to come in here and play around a minute we can show the auto focus button I would definitely recommend leaving that on you can perform bulb shooting with a long tap depends on the camera it's not going to let us do it so we don't have to worry about that and then when we come back out to this main menu we have some other types of information that we can change if we wanted to and see where it is here we can change the name of the camera we can reset certain display see here it has this little guide if you need help connecting auto transfer so if you want the camera to start downloading images as soon as you take them you would turn this on we have the reduce image size in the delete information we saw that in the other menu but if you're out shooting and you want these images ready to go for social media you can just turn on auto transfer it's gonna download to your smartphone the location information is I have mixed feelings about it simply because this is going to embed GPS data from your smartphone into the images there are certain people who want this if you do a lot of hiking I do disaster aid work so it's kind of cool to tag things I don't recommend it with this camera for battery reasons is that when you connect your smartphone to your camera and there's this extra feature running in the background sometimes your battery life will reduce dramatically there are some cameras they have built-in GPS that just drains the battery like crazy so the truth of the matter is I don't use the location information that much so in especially for security reasons especially if you're you know don't want you to give your information out by pictures probably good idea to leave it off so that is a quick overview of connecting your smartphone by Wi-Fi to your camera shooting in live remote for both Stills and video and we can also view images and have them automatically download so when we're talking about lenses available for rm50 it's important to remember that this is referred to as an EF M mount there are EF s mounts which is designed for aps-c cameras there's also regular EF mounts the EF s mounts and the F mounts will work on our EF m mount if we have an appropriate adapter this is a canon EF - EF m mount they go for about a hundred and eighty dollars they are expensive but if you have canon lenses already it's a no-brainer there's a knockoff version made by fotodiox runs about $40 it doesn't work as well from the reviews that i'm reading and i have a large amount of canon lenses so for me this makes sense and there is one canon lens that i would definitely recommend taking a look at if you go the adapted route and that is the 50 millimeter 1.8 it's a great lens because it's a wide aperture it's great for portraits low-light shooting really a wonderful lens and there's a company called younggu know that makes a knockoff version for less than 50 dollars when we're talking about native lenses specifically for the m50 there's a handful of them you should take a look at any kind of vlogging any kind of walk around hand-holding you're going to want the 11 to 22 so wide-angle lens very versatile for video recording I have the 15 to 45 this came as part of the kit bundle that I bought but I've seen these for about 300 or 250 if you were to buy them separately if you're going to be doing any kind of telephoto work I would recommend starting with the 18 to 150 telephoto that's a $500 lens but the thing that's great about the EFM lenses is that they're so small and so you know if you if you're coming from a background of full-frame lenses like me that they get very heavy so just with a couple lenses they weigh almost nothing if you're on a long trip traveling makes a lot of sense there is also a 28 millimeter macro that has LED lights built into the lens that's really interesting lens that one runs about 250 to 300 dollars depending on where you get it after you have the right lenses you're definitely going to want to look at some kind of support talking about tripods I am NOT a fan of the flimsy little tripods you get out Walmart and the reason is with any amount of use they are going to break eventually obviously they're better than nothing but I would recommend taking a look at the bogan Manfrotto be free or the me photo tripod with a locking ball head and by the way I have links on my blog on my gear page that will show you where all this stuff is and you can find everything that I'm talking about with direct links those are our feeling links it supports what I'm doing but the tripod is important because if you're doing anything a long exposure for landscape where you're doing timer shots painting with light there's a lot of times video work you're going to need a really good tripod if you go onto ebay you can find some of these used for well less than a hundred dollars I also think a smaller tripod makes sense for the case of the m50 it's pretty light and Joby Gorillapod makes these handheld flexible tripods that make a lot of sense you know you can set it up on your desk speaking of video if you are serious about doing vlogging work or high-end video recording you're definitely going to need an external microphone rode makes a number of onboard microphones that fit into your hot shoe on top of the camera and when we're talking about flash systems there are so many Canon flash units but the one that I recommend is a godox TT 685 C stands for Canon those run just over a hundred dollars for any kind of flash work I think that's your best value for portraits there's a lot of power it's really go knockoff version of the flagship DX RT 600 version - which is without discounts almost $600 so talking about tremendous savings that's the flash unit that I cover on the crash course again the most valuable tool that you have for your photography is your brain and how you think about the problem solving you'll go into and so I think out of all those accessories the most important one is my crash course on the Canon m50 that link is in the description below in any event I hope you guys enjoy this tutorial and I hope I've earned your subscription again I publish videos so times a week thank you for watching I'll see you on the crash course [Music]

Channel: Michael The Maven

Views: 1,917,464

Keywords: Canon M50, Canon M50 Tutorial, Tutorial, Training Video, How To Use M50, guide, Overview, help, Canon M50 Manual

Id: u8oOh-Do7RY

Length: 125min 40sec (7540 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 21 2019