Canon R5 Tutorial & R6 Tutorial Training Overview - Free Users Guide

hi my name is michael andrew and i'm about to give you your free tutorial on the awesome canon r5 if you are an experienced photographer or you are looking for a specific topic we've put together a table of contents you can hit command f or control f depending on the browser that you're using type in your topic hit return and it should highlight your topic in the table of contents the time code and that will take you to the specific part of this tutorial if you're looking for a great place to share your images and ask me questions check out my canon r5 users group on facebook it's probably the best way to connect with me in regards to the r5 i am very careful to not let trolls or negative energy in there this is a positive synergistic place for us to create and share ideas i'll put that link in the description now i know i'm going to get this question why would you make a free tutorial or any tutorials for a camera of this caliber the truth of the matter is number one there are beginners who will purchase the r5 who literally know nothing about the camera it's kind of one of these myths that beginners shouldn't or wouldn't buy an expensive camera my experience is that has nothing to do with it photographers will buy what they can afford and so if somebody can afford a really nice high-end camera they're gonna buy it so that's one part of it but even advanced and experienced shooters they want to know what the new features are now if you are a beginning or an intermediate photographer i have to give you a word of warning this video covers the operation of the camera only there are a lot of other things that you would need to know to maximize your creative potential including things like the photography basics talking about shutter speed aperture depth of field there's composition the artistic side to it there's the lighting side to it there's the troubleshooting part of it and then we start looking at all the different types of shooting we got portraits landscapes sports shooting and then all the different kinds of videography and there is a synergistic way to put these all together now the reason why i tell you that is i am putting together an awesome canon r5 crash course so if you find this video helpful and you want to cut to the chase and learn those techniques as quickly as possible check for the link in the description it will take you to my blog if it's published the link will be there but if it's not published leave your name and your email address and we will notify you as soon as the crash course is finished i also listen to feedback from you guys and add lessons so 100 money back guarantee this is the fastest way to learn your camera in any event we have a tremendous amount of information to cover so let's get started before i put a lens on i want to show and point out a few features on the front of the camera that you'll probably be wondering about this little button here is the depth of field preview button and what it does is it stops the aperture blades down to the aperture that you're about to shoot in and it allows you to preview the depth of field in real time we have our infrared remote sensor just inside of the shutter button right here we have the low light auto focus assist lamp when you first get your camera by default it'll probably be turned on and there's a way to turn this off next to that we have the microphone we have the lens release we're about to talk about and we also have a remote terminal underneath this rubber gasket allow us to connect a little remote control cable to the camera to activate certain features like taking a picture now the cover for the lens mount you'll notice that it has this little tick mark here and when you rotate it and it comes to the top you'll notice that there is a corresponding red dot that red dot is going to match your rf lenses and is the alignment point so when you put a lens on you're going to line it and rotate it as you know the canon r cameras have a feature that shut the shutter blades when the camera is turned off to prevent dust from getting onto the sensor i'm a big fan of the 24 to 105 f4 it's a very sharp lens i've had a couple of them in my career they're always very sharp i know you can't see it very well there's the red dot i'm going to line this up and rotate it until it clicks so a couple things i want to point out real quick obviously when you take a lens off of the camera body you're going to push the lens release and rotate the lens always make sure you hear that little click when you put it on and another thing is that we live in a microbe world where there's little dust particles and things floating around in the air at all times and what will happen eventually at some point you will get a dust particle on your sensor now there are some automatic sensor cleaning features on most cameras it's little filter that vibrates when you turn the camera on or off in some cases you will have to physically clean that off of the sensor and i will demonstrate how to do this on the crash course it's pretty straight i know it's nerve-wracking but if you have the right tools it's really not that bad one word of advice is that you kind of want to avoid changing your lenses in very windy environments and another thing that i do and recommend to my students is that when you change the lenses face the camera body down and that will actually prevent a lot of dust from getting in there and it will lengthen the time between cleanings another thing i want to point out is that every lens cap almost every lens cap underneath you'll have a little filter size in this case the filter size is 77 millimeters and that refers to the front filter mount and you'll need to know that when you start threading filters on this is how you find it talking about the left side of the camera features you'll notice on the lens barrel we have an auto focus manual focus switch sometimes you're going to want to manual focus and you just literally flip it on the lens flip it back forward really straightforward and we also have the optical image stabilization that refers to the stabilizer in the lens and we have ibis in the camera body however when you put them together the camera sees them as the same thing so if you turn off the stabilizer you're turning off both of them while we're here let's talk about these gaskets on the side we have several gaskets if you remove the top one we have a microphone input right here if you're doing any kind of video recording you're going to want an external microphone because your audio quality is going to be a lot better and then we have a headphone jack to monitor that audio below these we have a pc sync terminal this port will allow you to plug directly in to a studio strobe in order to trigger that strobe underneath this gasket we have our digital terminal so your usb port you can see right there and we also have our hdmi out which is sending audio and video signal out of the camera there's a little screw thread right here for the cable holder now you can charge batteries in the camera you can even charge two batteries at a time in the grip canon wants you to have the camera off when you start charging when you turn the camera on that interrupts the charging flow and there is even a power adapter that you can plug into the battery port and have uh you know unlimited power plugged into the wall let's talk about memory cards real quick there is a short answer and there's a much longer answer in the beginning i highly recommend sandisk's extreme pro memory cards i have more of these than any other memory card they are very reliable i the last time i had a problem with any sandisk was 2009 2010 haven't had a problem with them since this is the uhs2 memory card you can tell because we have two sets of pins on the back now the r5 is very high performance it is capable of writing an incredible amount of data to the memory card and when you get these high performance cards for the most part you're not going to have any problems with shooting stills in most of the video settings using a memory card like this it's very affordable i have 128 gigabytes you'll also notice that there is a little icon in here that looks like a u with the number three in it that is the minimum sustained writing standard for 4k video 30 frames per second so you want to have that what i'm saying is you can't really put a slow memory card into the r5 and expect to not have any interruptions or problems see there's an orientation notch on the side here we're gonna put that into the camera until it clicks and then we know it's in there the rule of thumb for my students that i tell them is to get the biggest fastest memory cards that you can afford it's a really good idea to have a backup if you're doing any kind of professional work and you can see this empty slot for a cf express type b now there is a little bit longer of an answer that i have to give you is that when you are purchasing memory cards it will give you different data rates and it will give it to you in megabytes with a big b very important because when we're talking about the video recording data rate that is typically given in mega bits which is a little b if you want to take advantage of the 8k raw video we're talking about 2600mhz per second we have to use a cf express b card that can match that speed and the way we convert that as we divide it by eight so we have eight bits for every megabyte 2600 divided by eight is 325 megabytes per second and that is faster than what our little sd card can handle those files are also going to be huge so if you plan on doing you know a lot of video recording you're going to need a couple of those cards i'm waiting for mine to arrive in the mail at the time of this recording there are some heating problems with the r5 i don't know how canon's going to address it i don't see the r5 as a primary video camera because of these heating issues but there are going to be many times i will want to record an 8k video raw even just to check it out so i have to have a memory card that can keep up with those data rates let's talk about the battery real quick it's a new type of battery so this is canon's new battery it's the lp e6 nh you'll notice has a little sticker here on the side backwards compatible you can use the older canon batteries they're the same shape lp 6n and another thing i want to point out you'll notice you have these pins these are going to go towards the top to the inside of the camera body you will also notice that we have this little port here it almost looks like an hdmi port it is not an hdmi port if i'm not mistaken this is the communications port for the battery grip we can purchase an additional battery grip that will allow us to use two more batteries and it's going to slide in here you will also notice that this little cover on the bottom there's a switch here and we can take this cover off by moving this switch over to the left and when we take that off it's going to create some room for the battery grip to move in to this and then we connect it very cool feature and then putting it back on is in the opposite direction slide that over it's in there let's talk about some of the top of the camera buttons and features and controls obviously we have the shutter button so the shutter button has a few positions a lot of people think you just grab it and push it down and that's all there is to it but most modern cameras there is a halfway position this is spongy very soft resistance and when the camera is on and you have auto focus activated you'll hear a beep by default you can hear the autofocus kicking in if we were to turn this to manual focus there's no beep very worth your time to train your finger to feel where that spongy resistance point is and when you want to take a picture you push it down all the way if we were on a burst mode taking multiple frames per second let's say we're taking 12 mechanical frames per second we would push and hold the shutter button down and the camera would continuously take those images you'll notice on the inside of the lens here we have a lens barrel lock this is a big heavy lens and sometimes when you're carrying it the lens might creep and so this allows you to lock the lens from moving obviously we have the power switch this little symbol here indicates the depth of where the sensor is in the camera body so this lines up exactly where the sensor is and i've used it many times in my little scientific tests to measure the distance and things of that nature obviously we have the flash hot shoe terminal this little guy right here i like to call it the primary selector canon calls it the main dial the reason i prefer to call this the primary selector is because of our index finger numero uno and when we put our index finger on the primary selector usually it is going to change the primary camera setting depending on what mode we are using and i'll point those out when we go through that lesson you're going to be changing a lot of settings and controls with this top main control dial to the left of the main control dial we have the multi function button the mfn button and this will allow us to pull up a small menu of features while we are shooting we can change i will demonstrate that when we get to the back of the camera we have our start and stop video record button we have our lcd illuminator so if we turn this on in a dark situation it is going to allow us to see the information on our lcd display here we have the lock feature and we can program certain features to lock on the camera if we have our camera set up just the way we want we don't want to bump the settings we can activate the lock i would be mindful of this button from accidentally pressing it because if we accidentally press it we don't really know then we've locked certain controls in the center of the secondary controller we have the mode button so when we press this we are going to see a sub menu of our modes that we can scroll through using the rear control wheel we can also activate the touch screen we had a little option there so that's how we control our modes so real quick let's talk about some of this information we have the current mode we're shooting in our battery charge shutter speed aperture and iso those three sets of information you are going to see pretty much in every viewfinder of every camera they're just put in different places but those three pieces of information are going to be critical for your shooting this little bar right here with all these tick marks that is the exposure compensation bar we'll be spending some time talking about what that is and how it operates but if you continue to press the little light bulb button we can see some of the other features that we have selected we have our memory card in slot 2 we have the current mode for the video shooting the frame rate and the resolution so this is full hd at 29.97 frames per second now we'll be talking about each of these features individually but what they are is in the top left hand corner we have our focus square type so it's the cluster of focusing squares that we're using to the right of that we have our drive mode which is what happens after we push the shutter button down all the way we have our white balance setting we have our focusing mode which is different than the squares we're using we're talking about focusing in depth we have our metering mode i'll be demonstrating what metering mode is and then we have our picture styles picture styles essentially are recipes for making jpeg images it's telling the camera what to keep and what to throw away if we had a second memory card in there we would also be able to see that and we'd this little arrow indicator is going to point to which one you are currently writing to let's talk about some of the features in the mfn button in regards to the lcd monitor it's a really great way they set this up it's very intuitive is that the rear control wheel will allow you to select different options in the primary selector will allow us to move through the settings of those features so when i press this you can see that we get these little boxes on the bottom that tell us the different features that we have and if i want to change any of those features within it i would rotate the top if i wanted to change any of those features i would rotate my primary selector while we are here i would strongly recommend changing from auto iso i'm not a fan of that by default i only use it in certain situations i'm going to put it to iso 400 right now if i wanted to change another feature like the drive mode i could do it here and we have little icons i'll be explaining what these each mean just just a minute here there's our focusing mode here's our white balance types and the exposure compensation so in the beginning it's going to feel a little weird but you have the option to look at your camera on the top view on the back monitor through the electronic viewfinder and you're going to be seeing all these symbols and features as we manipulate the mfn button i also want to point out that we can toggle through the different features by just repeating pushing the mfn button so we can toggle through each of those features it comes down to preference that's something that i love about the r5 is we have lots of different options to view and to change the settings of our camera let's talk about some of the buttons and controls on the back of the camera if you look in the manual it can be pretty confusing in terms of which button canon is talking about when they say quick control dial 2 they're talking about this thing when they're talking about quick control dial 1 they're talking about this guy the important thing is to know the differences between these if you are looking in the manual because otherwise you will get confused so this is quick two this is quick one next to the viewfinder you'll see this little black box here that is a switch that when we raise the camera to our eye it'll detect it and it will turn off if we have the setting set up right it'll turn off the monitor and turn on the evf that's the way i prefer to have it to the right immediate right of the viewfinder we have this little knob here this is called our diopter adjustment if you wear corrective eyewear and you want to adjust the focus of the evf this is where we do it on the back of the camera in the far top left we have the rate button which will allow us to designate a one through five star rating to our images and you will also know that we have a little record button there it's a little microphone and this is going to allow us to attach audio files to our images to the right of that we have the deep menu button we'll be spending quite a bit of time going through the deep menu check the table of contents if you want to jump through that to the far right of the viewfinder we have the joystick i just call it the joystick there's different names for it this is very useful for changing the position of our focusing squares i am a left eye dominant shooter and in some of the past canon r series cameras they wanted us to focus using the touch monitor my nose would be hitting this and so if you're a left eyed shooter this is absolutely going to be your friend i think most people prefer joystick anyway so we can select where the position of our auto focus points are pushing it into the camera body typically resets it and i'll be showing you how to set this up so you don't have to push any other buttons you can just push it and go to the focusing points to the right of the joystick we have the auto focus on button if you're doing sport shooting as many of you are you can engage our focusing using this rear button instead of using the halfway shutter button depression of the shutter button to the right of that this little star icon designates exposure lock so for example for shooting in the program mode shutter priority or aperture priority mode this is going to lock the exposure settings so they don't change it is also the flash exposure lock button if we are shooting with a speed light to the right of that we have a little box that has these little tick marks in it i like to refer to this as the cluster button because when we push it we can change our auto focusing clusters and the type of focusing squares we're using in the viewfinder or the back monitor magnify button obviously is going to allow us to zoom in we can zoom in while we are shooting if you want to get attack sharp focus we can also zoom in onto our images after we take the shot we have our information display button we have our q button then we have the play button obviously to play back images and we have the garbage can icon which obviously deletes images this little light will turn on when the camera is recording to the memory card just want to make sure we've covered everything obviously we have a great articulating touch screen monitor we'll be talking about this now in my opinion canon is numero uno when it comes to touch monitors really easy to use great features they are the leader i believe some of the other camera companies are catching up but the touch monitor is awesome so let's turn this bad boy on obviously i'm going to set this up we can use the touch controls so if you want to go up or down you can do it this way so once the camera is all set up we'll hit ok and okay again i want to answer a question many of you are going to have is that when we take the monitor and we flip it out all the way and we're shooting and we look into the viewfinder by default this switch is not going to activate so there is a setting that i would recommend changing or at least knowing about is when you come into the menu under this yellow wrench tab page 3 screen viewfinder display by default it is set to auto one when we come in and we look at this we're given two auto options a viewfinder option and a screen option the auto one setting basically means is that when you swing the monitor out and you look into the viewfinder this is not going to turn on so i kind of prefer the auto switching which means if i am shooting with it out here i can still look through the evf and it'll turn on there are times you are going to want to have the back monitor on only and we would come down to the screen option and there may be some times you only want the viewfinder on so this setting controls how the monitors in the auto switch works again i'm kind of a fan of this second one we double tap and then we tap the shutter button to get it out if you do not have your camera in hand i would definitely recommend getting it especially when you get into the exposure in the focusing lessons and another thing you should be very familiar with is what happens when you push the info button so just sit there and press through the information button and you're going to notice that you will scroll through several different kinds of screens with different sets of information i'll walk you through what this information is but just know this is how it operates i'm going to be pressing that quite a bit i'm going to jump into manual mode real quick so you can see all the settings in this first page here let's talk about some of the basic information now we get a mirror preview of what the electronic viewfinder would see so if you were to look into the electronic viewfinder you would see something similar i'm going to teach from the back monitor it's easier on the bottom and this is the case with most modern cameras you're going to see your three most important inputs which are your shutter speed usually given in fractions so in this case 1 100 of a second your aperture in this case 5.6 and we also have our iso something that's really cool is that we get these orange icons next to those settings which tells us how we can change them so in the case of this half banana shape object that is the primary selector on top when we're talking about this full circle it is the rear control wheel sometimes i call this the secondary selector because it changes the secondary setting and we also have what canon refers to as the quick two dial i will sometimes call this the thumb wheel so we have our primary selector our secondary selector or rear control wheel or our thumb wheel right here quick two the good thing about this video is you can literally see what i'm doing and we have these icons to remind us this bar here is referred to as the exposure compensation bracket we'll be talking about that in depth we have our touch shutter activation screen so anything you see in a box on the monitor means you can touch it we can touch and drag to change the setting if we want to change it directly on the back monitor as i'm getting older my vision is starting to slip a little bit it's easier for me to see some of those settings on the top in the top left hand corner we have the current mode that we are shooting in this case manual mode in the brackets we have the number of shots remaining on this particular memory card it's how much free memory we have this will change according to the settings we're using for our images or the resolution to the right of that we have the number of shots remaining in this burst 29.59 this is referring to the length of video i can record in a single take before the camera will automatically shut off we have our battery indicator image stabilization indicator it's turned off right now if i were to come to the front of the lens turn that on you can see that we get this indicator designating it is on and then we have a cue button we'll be talking about that in just a second if i was to press the info button again we get a ton of new information on the sides sometimes you want this information on your screen sometimes you don't we're going to come back to this in just a second pressing the info button again we get a histogram and our digital level you'll notice the camera is level when we see these two green indicators if i was to tilt the camera up just a little bit let's see if we can get this see these red tick marks so that's indicating the levelness to the horizon so they're side to side on the far sides and there's to the horizon and when we get green right about there if we were to press the info button again remove all that information we have a tracking option that we can turn on or off we're talking about that in the focusing lesson let's cover the quick menu screen first because i think these icons are easier to see when i show you them in different places again in the top left hand corner we have which mode we're shooting in and you'll notice we have those three controls again we have our shutter speed our aperture and our iso with orange indicators designating how we can change them if you press this q button in the bottom left hand corner or this cue button over here this is going to open the menu that will allow us to use the touchscreen to change these features so unless you see a box and you touch on the screen it's not going to work it wants us to activate the touch screen now we get these gray boxes the orange box is telling us which one we have currently selected so there's a number of different ways we can control the settings we can rotate any of the control wheels to change it three different options we can also touch into the menu and we can touch and drag we can tap so there's tons of different ways to change it this is preference in terms of what you prefer and like we can do the same for our aperture and our iso here's the exposure compensation indicator talk about exposure compensation a little later here we have our flash exposure compensation so if we want to change our flash power to be brighter or darker we can do it from the cue menu and then we get into some of the secondary settings things like picture styles talking a little bit about that when we get into the menus here's our white balance you'll notice we have all these different icons here's our white balance shift in brackets something i do not recommend if you're a beginning or intermediate photographer don't even worry about this for right now here we have our auto light optimizer it's automatically turned off in manual and bulb this is a slight contrast adjustment wants me to come back in we have our wi-fi modes if we want to connect to our smartphone or computer i'll be demonstrating that a little bit later here we have our auto focusing clusters we'll be spending quite a bit of time in this in the focusing lesson i'll explain each of these and when you should use them then we have our focusing modes we have either one shot or servo i'll be explaining that as well we have our metering modes we have our drive which is what the camera does after we push the shutter button down all the way i'll explain them real quick single square means it's going to take one shot and the camera is going to stop you'll notice that we have three different sets of images stacked on top of each other and these are different frame rates so high speed continuous plus high speed continuous low speed continuous burst if you're going for fast action you're going to want one of the high speed continuous bursts we'll be covering the sports shooting recommendations on the crash course i'll go down to the park i'll demonstrate how i set the camera up for sports shooting and then we have our two timers we have our 10 second or we can use remote to trigger it we have our two second with remote so those are the drive modes we have our memory card indicator this is which one we're recording to we also have the quality which deals with the type of file we're dealing with whether it's a raw file or a jpeg image we have some other indicators on the bottom again here we have the number of shots remaining battery life indicator wi-fi indicator image stabilizer so that is the cue mode and there is something in here i want to point out that's really cool is the custom button setup so if i press q and i come in to this guy right here this is going to allow us to customize either our buttons or our dials i am going to teach the dials the way canon has it set up on the camera and in the beginning i recommend learning it the default way and i think the reminders are good too when i am actually shooting i prefer the dials to be a little bit different i prefer this to be the secondary setting so if i'm in exposure compensation it's just preference i don't want it to be i would prefer this to be iso but that's just the way that i shoot so what i demonstrate and what your preference is going to be it is going to change the longer you are shooting you're going to have your own likes and dislikes about certain controls and this is where we can set this up when we come into the customized buttons you will notice that we get this map feature on the left that has a white highlight designating which button we're about to change in the beginning i would recommend leaving these as the defaults and you'll notice we have two columns one for still images and one for video images and you'll notice that they're side by side the same buttons so what canon is allowing us to do is to customize them differently according to whether we're shooting stills or video and when you come into each of these features there are tons of options so pages of different features eventually you're going to want to customize these it's just a fact of life but the one that i do recommend turning on right now is the multi-controller the joystick i would turn this to direct af point selection and we'll be talking about this in the focusing lesson this allows us to to when we're focusing is point that joystick in any direction that i want go back to the center let's talk about how some of this information has changed in the video mode most of this is similar shutter speed aperture iso probably the easier place to see this is in the black screen there's a couple things in here that are different our audio levels this one is important and the reason is it allows us to set the gain control of our microphone by default when you get the camera it's going to be set on auto i would definitely recommend turning this to manual because if you don't the gain is going to fluctuate depending on how much sound is coming into the camera so with manual you can come in and turn the gain down and what we're looking at is the audio levels here is you want to stay away from this red when you see the red on the audio levels it means the camera has clipped out yellow is okay but the red is bad so you're going to want to keep an eye on that and also keep an eye to make sure that this says manual now there are some other controls in here as well we have an attenuator which dampens the sound i i'm not really a fan of it i just use you know the basic audio levels but you can also turn this on just to prevent sound from clipping out there is a wind filter that is supposed to reduce wind noise i've never had a lot of success with it and another really important one right here is the resolution for the video that we're shooting on we'll be talking about this in the menu section a little bit but i'll be giving some demonstrations on the crash course about you know why i choose one over the other tons of different compression settings you can see the columns are really nice because it tells you the resolution in the top row tells you the frame rate the second row and it also tells you the compression type in the bottom row so we have the ability to go raw all eye ipb or compressed ipb it's a lot to go into just keep in mind that on the top we can see the resolution dimensions we can choose the frame rate below it's very logical it's a very logical layout slightly different ak standard we can go 4 k at 60 frames per second wish we had raw options for 4k but we have all i ipb i know it's a lot to go into it also gives you the total record time based on how much what your memory card is capable of and how much space you have very nice and when we come over we have also the ability to turn on movie digital image stabilization i don't really use it in camera but it it's starting to make more sense especially when we're shooting with these huge resolutions digital image stabilization is giving the camera permission to to essentially crop in and stabilize the image you lose some resolution but if you're shooting 8k it may not make that much of a difference so i'm looking forward to experimenting with this quite a bit and uh there's even an enhanced version of it you know my question is how much degradation is there what does the quality look like so we definitely get some different information in the video screens if we come to the cue overlay you can see a lot of those same settings off to the sides now one thing that's different is we have our headphone jack we can control the volume of the headphone jack we can turn on hdr movie recording very nice really good but in any event just keep in mind that when you are on your video screen you do have these video related features now that we know what those icons are let's come to another screen and this is the live view version of the quick menu so we see a lot of these similar icons on the sides now you'll notice that they're not highlighted with the box which means if we try to touch them we're just going to be focusing the focusing square to gain access to these features we're going to press this little q we can also obviously access it with the cue button here and the way this works is that we have the features on the left and right columns and once something is highlighted we have the options on the bottom so let's go through these real quick we have our auto focus clusters we have our auto focus mode we have our image quality dealing with jpegs or raw images we have our drive modes that we've already discussed we're going to keep it on single our metering modes we will talk about just a minute we have our anti-flicker shooting and what this does is it tells the camera to detect if we are shooting in flickering lights it's not something that we can see with the naked eye most of the time i have a video on this if you want to know why it happens and this allows the camera to time the flickering to get consistently exposed and color balanced images it's something that you kind of have to be looking for it you may not notice it when it's happening but when you go back and you look at your images you'll notice certain things like the color of the light you're shooting in is changing most of the time i leave this turned off because it can interrupt for example the maximum frames per second things of that and it's a long a lot of stuff to go into but if you notice flickering lights you can turn this on and it will assist you we have our auto white balance we have our picture styles and then we have our auto light optimizer this guy on the bottom is the cropping or the aspect ratio if we wanted to crop out the sensor so 45 megapixels if we didn't want to use that we could go for a square for instagram and and when you take the picture it actually takes a picture of a square jpeg it's ready to go i personally don't recommend going with certain aspect ratios because you can always crop it in post you'll have the full image but there are people like my dad for example he loves to shoot in 16x9 for stills there's some people who are like micro four third aspect ratio there's people who want a 1.6 crop aps-c size so it just depends on what you're doing but for the most part full is going to be fine so when we are done with this we can tap the shutter button it'll take us back out you'll notice that when i move the focusing square we get this guy jumping up this is return to center pushing into the joystick will also do that that's typically how i do it but if if you're just wondering what that is it's to reset to center amazing coverage on the r5 in terms of how far we can focus top to bottom it's incredible it's fantastic push that in again when we're talking about the touch screen we can press playback in pinch and zoom just like a smartphone zoom in or out when we pinch in together we start to import other images that we've already taken if you continue to do this the more images that you have and when we get to the point that we have you know hundreds of thousands you'll see this and we get the scroll bar on the right so we can we can touch and drag it's the touchscreen is awesome it's wonderful obviously really good for focusing we can touch and focus we'll be talking about that a little later something i want to demonstrate before we get into the modes and exposure lesson is the what the mfn button looks like in the evf or the back monitor so when i push the mfn button down once we get the sub menus it's giving us an indicator that's showing how we can change we can also use this top control wheel and again we can change the settings within each of those features using the primary selector so again here are our drive modes you'll be familiar with those icons here is our focusing mode we'll be talking about our white balance and exposure compensation we can also toggle pressing the mfn button and i really love that it tells us which button to use but you can really use both of these tap the shutter button jumping in to the mode lesson so when we push the mode button down we have all of the available modes on the back monitor you'll see the corresponding on the lcd and there's a long answer and a short answer to this the short answer is if you are first getting started i want you to focus on aperture priority every camera has a dummy mode and i say that lovingly is it really turns our camera a very expensive camera into a point and shoot we still get the benefits of the large sensor but the camera is going to be making those decisions i do not recommend dummy mode for anybody if you are really struggling and want the camera to help you out a bit i would recommend program mode because you can still change a lot of your settings in program mode but the one that i think every beginner should struggle with even if you struggle with it for a couple days or even a week is the aperture priority mode we'll be going into that in a second we also have a flexible priority mode which is uh it's only on canon r cameras and i will be demonstrating how this works a little bit later some of the other modes is we have the manual mode just like it sounds we control every setting we have the bulb mode which allows us to take very long exposures we know well over 30 seconds we also have the c1 the c2 and the c3 modes those stand for customization modes you'll notice that we get a little letter icon on each of those it's telling us what mode each of those custom settings are set at now if we want to jump into the dedicated video mode it wants us to press the info button so when we press the info button now we're looking at the different modes for video shooting we have a dummy video recording mode we have a program video recording mode when i'm shooting video it's almost exclusively manual there are rare occasions i will use aperture priority if i'm going from bright dark locations quickly you know indoors to outdoors i might use that but most of the time for video i'm on manual mode the crash course that i'm putting together for the r5 we're going to shoot a commercial i'm going to demonstrate all kinds of different video shooting vlogging tons of information in that course we also have our customizations for video shooting and we want to jump back into the dedicated still shooting we press the info button again now we're going to get in to our exposure control lesson this is probably the most important thing i can teach you on this video because you're going to be changing it often exposure is just a fancy word for brightness so what i'm saying is this lesson will show you how to make your images brighter or darker there is a short answer to this and there is a much longer answer and i'm going to give you both and the reason i go into some of the longer answers is because you know during instructionals if i just say hey push this button push that button and then then you got it it doesn't really teach you the concept of of how this works and so i go into the philosophy of use on many of these features that's what a lot of what the crash course is is the philosophies of uses in different shooting settings this is why we would change it to be this and in the past this works far better with my students because they understand why they're doing it instead of hey push xyz buttons right by the way get your camera if you haven't make sure you have it in your hands before we jump in there just make sure that on the red tab page seven we have exposure simulation turned on very important also make sure that you have your iso not set on auto otherwise we won't be able to see some of these examples so again i want you to start off on aperture priority mode make sure you have your camera in your hands to follow along and i want to explain what aperture priority mode does aperture priority means that we dial in the aperture setting in the camera selects the shutter speed that's how it works the the camera is going to do some other heavy lifting for us and when we rotate our primary control wheel you can see the aperture is changing the smaller the number the wider the lens opening the higher the number so if we go up to f22 the smaller the opening and i explain all this on the crash course there's a digital photography school it's about an hour long it will get you through the basics really fast so if we're opening and closing the diameter of the lens the question should be is why is this not getting brighter or darker when we do that now the secret to seeing this is you tap the shutter button and now we can see the shutter speed and as we change our aperture you'll notice the shutter speed is changing accordingly so if we go with a very very small opening the camera is using a longer and longer shutter speed so a wider shutter speed the camera is using a faster shutter speed so the concept of aperture priority is that we select the size of the opening of the aperture aperture priority and the camera adjusts the shutter speed in order to keep it to an even exposure so no matter what we change the aperture to the exposure is pretty much more or less going to be the same the question you probably have okay that's great how do we make the image brighter or darker great question the short answer is the exposure compensation bar right here if you want to make so if we take a picture that's great right but let's say we want to make it brighter okay this is the short answer come over here to the exposure compensation bar and press on a positive number in this case positive one i would go ahead and do this at home take a look at it and when we compare those two images you can see this one's darker and this one's brighter so that's how we change our image brightness we use the exposure compensation bar if we want to make it darker no problem we'll go to negative one take a picture and that quickly we can now control the brightness of our images in the p tv or av modes so there's the even exposure a little bit brighter a little bit darker we could go to extremes if we wanted to be really dark or we can go really really bright that's the short answer so now i'm going to give you the philosophy of use for aperture priority mode and exposure compensation so what i want you to do is to tap the shutter button and as you're doing this i want you to take your hand and cup it over the lens and what you will notice is that the camera is making adjustments based on the amount of light entering the camera not what the shutter speed is so i get this question all the time you know michael i'm you know i have my aperture at f4 why are all my pictures blurry and i ask them are you shooting indoors i'm like yeah okay we'll go outside and you know in this in daytime and take a picture of a tree and oh hey it's working great so you need to remember that the camera is making those adjustments based on how much light is entering the camera okay that's the first critical part and because it's doing this those shutter speeds are going to change according to the light which means we also have to be a little bit careful so there are a couple safe shutter speeds i want you to be aware of so that as you are shooting you can keep an eye on them to make sure you are within the safe boundaries the safe shutter speeds that i recommend for my students is that if you are shooting a portrait if you're taking a picture of a person the minimum the slowest shutter speed that you should have is 1 60 of a second if it's 1 16th of a second or faster typically we're not going to have to worry about you know moving the camera or the person might be moving a little bit usually that's going to be good enough we have image stabilization i like 1 100 of a second or faster but sometimes you you know if you want to if you want to push the limit 1 60 of a second for beginners is the max if you are shooting a sporting event i like to sneak a peek over here and make sure that this is at least one five hundredth of a second it really does depend on the sport there are some you know birds in flight you're gonna need you know one two thousandth of a second in some cases you know just depends on what you're doing very very fast subjects need a faster shutter speed but to begin one 500th of a second why would i tell you that the reason i tell you that is because as you use aperture priority you're using your exposure compensation and we're you know bumping the control over is that does affect the shutter speed and so we have to keep a mindful eye on that and a question i often get is you know do professionals use aperture priority my answer is absolutely all the time and it's completely okay when i was a wedding photographer i would shoot aperture priority because we'd be shooting in a dark chapel and here comes the bride and groom and i'm backing up and i'm shooting and i don't want to have to worry about changing the shutter speed i just want to you know compose and make sure i don't trip take the shot so when we go from that dark setting to the lobby the camera changes the shutter speed for me when we go from the lobby to the outdoors the camera changes the shutter speed for me i shoot sports on aperture priority mode why because sometimes clouds come in and i don't want to have to worry about changing my shutter speed i would say i probably shoot aperture priority probably 80 percent of the time 75 to 80 of the time and the other mode that i use is manual i use manual when i have enough time or when i am doing strobe shooting so manual gives you complete control but anything where i'm in a changing lighting condition aperture priority mode pretty much all the time i want to take you a little bit deeper into exposure compensation and demonstrate what is happening here with this little guy on the bottom in the lighting situation that i'm in right now the camera is at f4 1 160 of a second each of these numbers designates one full stop one stop is twice the amount of light than the previous setting so in the case of the diamond home plate to 1 when i go to 1 i am doubling the amount of light entering the camera and i can prove this to you mathematically is that when we are at the diamond home plate 1 160th of a second and when we go to that plus one the shutter speed is now 1 80th of a second so 1 plus one one hundred and sixtieth is two one hundred and sixtieths right so we have two of those guys together and when we add them together and simplify we get one eighty so we're taking twice the amount of shutter speed to make the image one stop brighter the first time i figured this out it was like my brain exploded and this was like maybe a year and a half into my shooting career hadn't figured it out i i learned through trial and error we didn't have youtube when i started now if we continue to go on this journey look 180th of a second if i'm going to add twice the amount of light by the shutter speed we can mathematically calculate this 1 80th plus 1 80th is 2 80ths simplify 140th so when we get to 2 that should be 140th there it is and when we get to 3 it should be 1 20th not exact it's in that ballpark pretty close in the opposite direction if we want half as much light then we would use a twice as fast shutter speed so 1 60th times 2 it would be 1 320th of a second there it is so if we want twice as fast shutter speed the next one should be 1 640. there it is and if we're going down one more stop it should be twice that which is about 1250. there it is and that is how exposure compensation is working let's talk about shutter priority mode it's a mode i never use never like maybe once in a blue moon i'll use it but i pretty much don't ever use it because i can do all these things in manual mode i can dial in my shutter speed my aperture but the idea on shutter speed is the opposite of what it was on aperture priority mode we select the shutter speed and the camera is making adjustments to the aperture so in some cases if you know you want a specific shutter speed and if the light situation changes the camera is going to make those adjustments to the opening of the lens in the case of exposure compensation it works in a similar way in that it changes the aperture to make the stop adjustment this is why i like to refer to this as the primary setting the primary numero uno digit is changing the primary setting according to the mode so if we're in tv it's going to change the shutter speed if we are in aperture priority mode it is going to change the aperture primary setting this is why i like to refer to these other guys as sometimes the secondary controllers the way this is set up is the secondary setting is our exposure compensation so primary secondary right come back into shutter priority now i'm going to throw you a curve ball in that let's say we're shooting sports and we need a fast shutter speed 1 500th of a second now the aperture is flashing camera is not happy this is how cameras complain as they start flashing apertures at you like this sometimes it'll be red depends on the camera and you're getting this exposure preview that hey this is pretty dark if we know that we need a fast shutter speed and we've opened the lens as wide as it will go what can we do to make the camera happy think about it for just a second now if you said change your iso you are absolutely correct we can come in and we can change our iso we're using this top thumb wheel until it becomes brighter and brighter then notice it stops we'll stop at 3200 iso camera is no longer complaining camera's happy so this is why we talk about how much light we're shooting in to be aware of it there are a lot of indoor sporting situations where it's darker you might need to bump your iso up so what is iso there's a lot of confusion about it but think of iso as an amplification to the light that hits the sensor we're not necessarily making the sensor more sensitive we're adding a boost and there is some trade-off in this i'm going to demonstrate it to you real quick i'm going to take a picture of these blinds at 51 200. take a look at this edge and when we play that back and zoom in on the edge you're going to notice that we get it's almost this grainy salt and pepper not really pleasing to the eye right so let's do that again with a much lower iso i'm going to go all the way down to 400. it's not happy because of the shutter speed but just for the demonstration of iso i'm going to change that real quick take a picture and we're going to compare iso 400 with iso 51200 when i zoom in on the edge you can see a nice clean edge on the blind there's that salt and pepper is gone so what's happening is that the trade-off for iso is that when we use very high isos we get more grain you're going to see this is a great it's not very pleasing you can get away with it in some situations where people don't notice and on canon cameras i i mean there was when the 60 first came out i was just amazed that i could shoot you know at and 12800 and not really notice the iso so the short answer is that lower isos are going to have less grain but you'll need more light higher isos like 51 200 they're going to allow you to take images in lower light situations but you're going to get more grain if you're interested in what's going on with iso noise there is a video that i made called shot noise and it will explain that the primary determinant is the light that you're shooting in so sometimes people will shoot at iso you know 800 or even 400 and they're like why why is my image so grainy well in situations where you have very low light the photons as they hit the sensor are kind of scattered that's the short answer and it creates that noise so a lot of this depends again on the light you're shooting in let's take a look at the program mode real quick program mode is not bad i mean i i know of at least one famous pro photographer who shoots in program mode it's just easier for him and that's fine hey he's amazing so program mode you'll notice that we don't have the options to change the shutter speed or the aperture so if i tap the shutter button what's happening on program mode is that we get different sets of information different combinations and the camera is basically saying hey if you use the shutter speed you can use this aperture and the reason we know that is because when we go in and we start really adjusting the exposure compensation is we start to see changes in both numbers so it's changing both of them program mode a lot of people don't know this on canon cameras is the handheld mode for flash which means that when you put a strobe or a speed light on the camera it is a great mode for shooting event photography so you know like a reception at a wedding or maybe a dark party where you want that strobe to fire it is going to make sure that the shutter speed is at least 1 60 of a second and your your pictures won't be all blurry that is program mode let's talk real quick about manual mode manual mode i think is the easiest one to learn simply because it requires us to put in the shutter speed the aperture and the iso we dial in everything the camera is not doing any lifting for us i use manual mode any chance i have enough time so if i'm not worried about moving around or it's not an event almost always on manual mode if i'm in the studio using strobes i am on manual mode if i am shooting video i use manual mode because it locks the camera settings and the exposure doesn't change we just change our aperture we change our iso and nothing will change when i take my hand and move it in front of the camera nothing changes right so look what happened to the exposure compensation bar we can't change it now can't even highlight it now it is moving when we rotate this set quick control dial on the back and what's happening is is the exposure compensation bar has become a light meter it's basically still measuring light and it's telling us how bright or how dark the camera will be if we take our hands and put it over the lens you can see that we can move that exposure compensation bar around that does not happen in those other three modes that's locked it's going to be changing one of the other settings and that's manual mode manual mode is amazing while we are here in manual mode i do want to talk about auto iso auto iso is something i do not recommend most of the time especially if you are still learning because it's going to make a lot of adjustments for you and you're not going to understand why the camera is doing it auto iso is just like it sounds camera's going to be changing the iso even in manual mode there is a time and place for however for example indoor sports shooting let's say you're at an mma event and you want to make sure your shutter speed is at 1 500th of a second and your aperture is at let's say f 4.5 the problem with that kind of event sometimes basketball it just depends on the sport is the lighting conditions can change by the lights themselves or how the athletes are moving and when you get these flickers or pulses of light if you're in manual mode that's going to change the exposure of every shot so what we do in those cases is we turn it to auto iso and as we push our shutter button halfway down the camera is metering it's measuring the light and it will determine the appropriate iso for that one instant so in those cases of indoor you know arena type events where you have lots of light maybe a disco maybe a certain type of concert lots of different kinds of lights coming on and off auto iso would be a great and powerful tool there we can also change in the menu the limits of how far the iso is going to go and things of that nature i'll demonstrate that when we get into the menu section let's talk about bulb mode real quick bulb means that the shutter speed depends on how long we push or hold the shutter button down so if i push the shutter button down and hold it down the exposure starts when i release it the exposure ends and obviously it's flooding the sensor with light and it's overexposed so when you see this this is referred to as overexposure when it's pure black it's under exposure right bulb mode is very powerful when you use it with certain remotes so you can lock the shutter button down if you're doing star trails at night and you need you know very long exposures bulb mode is the way to go uh just depends on what you're doing and then we have the c1 the c2 and the c3 let's talk about the c1 the c2 and the c3 those stand for custom and the way this works is that we come into a mode that let's say we're shooting portraits and we we have maybe very specific camera quality settings and focusing mode we have eye detection turned on we want a certain picture style we set the camera up the way we like it in that mode then we come into the menu yellow tab page five and we come to the custom shooting mode and we can come to register settings when i register at c1 the camera will remember those settings at position c1 let's go ahead and do it remembering them and if i want to jump to those settings at any time i would just come in and select my c1 aperture priority see the mode change there it's great if you if you do different styles of shooting let's say you're a portrait photographer but you also do sports and landscape well now you have a great starting point for each of those kinds of settings and you wouldn't have to go and fumble with all these other little settings depending on the condition we're using right so that's c1 c2 and c3 let's take a look at the flexible priority so the flexible priority means is that when we come in let's say we want we know we want a certain shutter speed let's say it's 1 500th of a second right shooting with sports so you'll notice that what will happen is the camera will now be responsible for the aperture and the iso so let's say we want the camera to handle the shutter speed so we'll just turn that to auto and we know we want an aperture of f8 we want a certain iso well now we've set this up to basically be aperture priority it's the same thing so flexible priority mode allows us to dictate to the camera which of the controls it is changing and which of the controls we are changing and i know a lot of people who love it so that is an overview of the stills mode and exposure control when we are shooting for still photography when we come into the video modes you'll notice that we have a lot of these different icons i don't use the dummy mode for video i don't use the program mode for video the only two modes i ever use are really manual mode in aperture priority mode when i am setting up my camera for video recording there's some basics that i should just tell you is that if you're going for a film-like look and many of you are and this is it just looks better in my opinion is you want to double your frame rate to determine your shutter speed so if i'm shooting at about 30 frames per second i double that 60 so i shoot at 160. if i'm shooting at 60 frames per second i want to double that and i would shoot at one 125th of a second right now a problem we will run into you can kind of see it a little bit interesting see it you notice what's happening is that as we get into faster and faster shutter speeds we start to have this great banding problem here's the problem it's these little bands moving you will see that when the camera is either in video mode or an electronic shutter mode is that led lights like this will create a banning problem i'll demonstrate that in stills a little bit later so the way you get around this for video lights is i recommend minimum 1 125th of a second you won't notice it maybe in some cases 60 you can see it flickering as a change but i actually made a video on why why this happens explains it goes into the physics of it set the shutter speed first then i sh i set the aperture that i want to use say we'll go f4 and at that point i would set the iso i don't shoot with auto iso on video but there are some times you want to do it and that is a basic setup for video we can start and stop video recording by pressing the red circle icon at the time of this recording there are some problems with the r5 overheating in even that if you're shooting stills and then you go into video that it starts to overheat as well i'm kind of reserving my judgment on this because i'm hearing that canon has some type of a fix or solution but at the time of this recording i believe the r5 is an incredible stills camera amazing it's not really a primary video shooter i wouldn't call this an a camera so if you're doing a lot of video shooting this is not the camera i would recommend i'm not ripping on the camera it's just that the overheating interrupts interrupts shooting so much however as i get into the crash course and i demonstrate the different techniques i am going to demonstrate all the techniques as if it were in a camera simply to arm you with the knowledge of how to do these different kinds of shooting styles in fact i have a commercial that i'm shooting soon i'm going to shoot a lot of it on the r5 just to get the 8k i'm just curious i just want to see how well it does i want to have some options let me demonstrate real quick what uh an electronic shutter banding issue looks like so if we come in to our menu tab page six right here electronic first curtain basically means the sensor is exposed when you take the image and a physical shutter ends the second part of the exposure and then it drops back down mechanical means that it's closed to start with and then it opens and closes and this is where the problems happen is the electronic continuous shooting we do have the ability to shoot at 20 frames per second in this shutter mode here's the problem here's one of the problems is that when we come in and we use a very fast shutter speed is that we start to get banding so when you see this happening know your camera is not broken it's merely that you're shooting with an electronic shutter in flickering lights like leds another drawback of electronic shutter is that if you are panning a fast moving subject with electronic shutter mode you're going to start to see the jello effect it is a warping or a distortion of the subject matter and it's just a problem with the electronic shutter just wanted you to be aware of that in case you saw it i'm going to come back in to our shutter mode for the sake of this video i'm going to be shooting on mechanical for the rest of the video let's change gears just a little bit let's talk about something a little bit you know easier and that is the topic of white balance in the very beginning awb stands for auto white balance for most pure beginners that's going to be plenty just keep it on auto white balance for now but what will happen is that as you are shooting eventually you are going to get to a situation where all of your pictures have a certain color cast to it maybe it'll be a little bit blue maybe it'll be a little bit yellow and you'll be like what is going on right so on the bottom of our auto white balance settings we have a ton of different icons in fact this isn't really an easy place to see it i just want to make this easy to see here let's do it from this screen so coming into our auto white balance see these guys a little bit better it's giving us a preview but the idea here is to match the icon with the light you are shooting in the sun icon and you'll notice the color is going to shift as i scroll through here the human eye is amazing it can adapt to the different temperatures or the different colors of light sources and we don't even notice it camera sensors are different camera sensors have a much harder time adjusting to the type of the light source that they're shooting in and and so what's happening here is that when we pick the sun icon we're telling the camera hey we're shooting in sunlight and then the camera will change its color settings accordingly so the short answer on this is to choose the icon of the light that you are shooting in more important for things like jpegs and video let's go through each of them real quick we have our daylight or sunlight icon shade cloud cover we have tungsten light that's a light bulb you have a fluorescent light it's almost like a purplish kind of cue we have our flash we have custom white balance and we have kelvin white balance when we're shooting jpegs and videos this is this is a little bit more critical because we don't have all of the color information like we do in raw files there are some important things i want to point out if you come into the info on this screen is that there are different kinds of auto white balance so we have an ambient light priority and then we have more of a white priority just preference in terms of what you want i would just not even worry about this if you're a pure beginner intermediate shooters you're going to start changing to your icons when you get into the advanced shooting you will custom white balance use your kelvin things of that nature so let's cover those real quick what will eventually happen is you'll be in a shooting condition where you have mixed light it may be a tungsten bulb and some fluorescent bulbs so the lighting's gonna be a little bit weird or maybe you're shooting in shade but there's also light bulbs inside the house so it just depends on what you're doing but the feature of custom white balance allows us to tell the camera what white is so here's how custom white balance works take a picture of something white pure white come into your menu so red tab page three custom white balance i'm going to select the image that i just took i'm basically telling the camera hey this is white i've done it with bride's addresses and walls and even a sheet of paper hit okay camera is telling us to change our white balance to the custom we can do it right here in the menu come over and now i have properly white balance the camera for mixed lighting conditions because we're telling the camera this is what's white there is another setting in here that i should briefly discuss and that is the kelvin setting kelvin gets into some of the deeper philosophies of use think of this as a rating for the type of light we are using this is going to be easier to see what's happening when i'm in live view i'm going to come into the kelvin setting the set button and now we have the ability to change our kelvin setting there's a couple kelvin settings you should know about 5600 is traditionally what daylight kelvin temperature is light bulbs talking about tungsten and incandescent 32 to 3300 and you will notice the color is changing as i'm scrolling back and forth but in the in the case of these daylight balance lights that i'm shooting in 5200 to 5600 i think the bulbs i'm shooting in right now are about 50 100 you can see it's pretty much white so what's happening is is that when we select a lower kelvin temperature and you can see this blue light coming in what's happening is the camera is adding blue to counteract the temperature of low kelvin lights i like to think of it in terms of things like candles so if you light a candle a candle is a very yellow light right so if you're shooting an all candle light it would be a very yellow environment and so setting the kelvin temperature lower is adding blue into that situation to balance it out if i was shooting at let's say twilight sun has just gone down and it's kind of a purplish bluish kind of sky that's a higher cut color temperature higher kelvin and in those cases what's happening is the camera is adding orange color to that situation to balance it out to make it more more white neutral so there is some confusion in the terminology is that when you take a picture and it has this golden hue to it photographers will say that's a very warm color temperature it's a very warm image they're talking about a characteristic of the color when you're talking about kelvin we're talking about a physically measurable numeric value when we're talking about temperatures in terms of being hotter or cooler whereas higher kelvin temperatures are literally hotter than cooler or lower kelvin temperatures so i just make that distinction it's probably uh maybe it's too much but basically when we're talking about you know images that are hot or cool they're talking about the appearance of it not so much the kelvin temperature i'm gonna come back in and change this to auto white balance so i want to come into the focusing lessons we're going to talk about focusing in regards to still photography first then we'll go into the video focusing i think focusing is really probably the second most important thing you should learn about your camera after exposure it can be very confusing we have 5940 different focusing points of which we can choose over a thousand of them we have different focusing clusters we have different focusing modes and there's different strategies depending on what you're shooting i will demonstrate this in the crash course the easiest way to learn this is to break these down into the how the when and the where how when and where is all you need to worry about and practice this as you're watching because it'll start to make sense if you go through it i think twice most people typically get it so the first question is how does the camera focus well as i demonstrated a halfway shutter button depression engages the camera's focusing systems if your lens switch is pointing to af if it's pointing to mf you will push this down and nothing will happen mf is manual focus there are actually many different ways we can focus with the camera halfway shutter button depression we also have the auto focus on button this is back button focusing talking a little bit more about that later the touch screen is amazing to focus by touching on the screen it's incredible and you'll notice that in each of these examples we're given a green box we're hearing a little beep there's even this feature here the touch shutter feature that if it says touch shutter enable and we touch on something on the screen the camera will both focus and take the picture now there's a danger to that in that if you're carrying the camera and you're bumping the screen it's taking pictures of everything so if you don't want that see i'm having a hard time hitting it we can turn the touch shutter to disable and by default it just goes back to touch focus so that is the short answer how does the camera focus the halfway shutter button depression or the af on button for starters or touching on the screen next we're going to talk about the camera's focusing modes this is the when the camera is focusing now there are different ways to get to the focusing modes we can come into our cue button you can see that we have it right here af operation there are two of them there's one shot and there's servo i like that they've simplified this one shot means that we push the shutter button halfway down we can get focusing lock and if we change the position of the camera for recomposing the camera's focus will not change it'll stay locked pushing the shutter button down all the way takes the picture of course the heart of the matter with one shot is that when you get to that halfway shutter button depression the camera stops focusing it locks and it stays locked until you take the picture so the other variant of this is servo and you will notice that when we use the servo focusing mode we get a blue box it's different you can see the blue box and you'll notice that we don't get the beep and when we use a halfway shutter button depression with servo the camera is focusing over and over and over again it's a continuous focus it is constantly focusing and that is the win it's either one time or it's continuous so you've probably figured out that if we are shooting still subjects that do not move one shot is ideal maybe a cooperating human if we're dealing with subject matters that move like a kid running around everywhere or athletes and we want the camera updating focus we want servo and that's the main difference between the two is if we're dealing with a still or a moving subject so we've talked about the how we've talked about the win now we're going to talk about the where this deals with the cameras focusing clusters they can be accessed by pressing the cluster button in the top right hand corner so when you see that box just think okay that's the focusing cluster when you select this on the bottom of the screen we get a ton of different options i am a big fan of a single square most of the time but it changes depending on what i'm doing and as you scroll through each of these you'll notice the name changes and also the size of the focusing squares change depending on what we have so let's talk about each of these individually the first and probably the easiest one to understand is a single focus point it's just a single box it's very small it's going to be very precise we get incredible coverage with a single box in stills mode it's really amazing very useful but let's say we're shooting macro and we want to get a little bit more precise well we would use spot af and you can see that it is much smaller well let's say we need something a little bit bigger than a single box we can go to the expanded area so the way cameras focusing systems work is that they're usually looking for an area of contrast if i have a pure white subject in some cases the camera might have a hard time focusing on it but in this case i have that right box on the on the cross there see if we can make it jump on onto the there it goes it's kind of jumping over to the side because it sees hey there's something over there right next we have expand af area around just adds more boxes and then we get to these cluster types that are zones so a large zone maybe if you're shooting something like a burden flight you want you know a larger area to look at you can see that the boxes are looking for that area of contrast right and then we can go with large zone vertical and we can change the position of that large zone side to side still finding that contrast and then we have the horizontal so the in those first sets of focusing clusters we are determining an area we're telling the camera hey look within this area for something to focus on that said there are some super powerful ones i'm going to access it up here in the top corner is this guy right here so face tracking with the ability to turn on eye detection that's what it is i'm going to put up another target so as you can see we have a handsome model who's going to help us with the face and eye detection so coming back to this cluster you can see a little smiley face and then a tracking square next to it this particular cluster what it means is it's going to be looking for a human face and canon has put a huge amount of work from everything that i'm seeing in other examples into detecting the faces of humans and animals i've seen pictures of insect faces being locked on it's really incredible because the in the tests that i've done so far it feels like this is more computer than it is camera it's the first camera that i have felt like oh my gosh this is there's a lot going on in the background here so face detection is wonderful for shooting portraits people and something we need to always remember when we're shooting portraits is that we want the eye to be in focus it's been a problem sometimes it's a hassle when you're shooting with a very wide apertures you get a very shallow depth of field and so sometimes it's hard to get that eye detection just right and so this is where the eye detection comes on when i press that info button now i am in eye detection mode so you can see that the camera is getting a really nice focusing lock and we have these arrows pointing side to side is that i can use the joystick it's you can't really touch the screen to do it but if you use the joystick you can even determine which i is going to focus on canon has some incredible rf wide aperture lenses you know 1.2 2.0 they're just incredible and when you get into those very shallow depths of field you want your eyes to be in focus on your portraits and in the past with dslr cameras what we would have to do is get a focusing square on the eye and sometimes it wasn't precise enough or if we were trying to recompose you know to to change the composition we would pull the camera out of focus that is not required with eye detection with eye detection you can see how far it gets to the side of the frame that is amazing and for wedding photographers people who are taking you know pictures of of people all day this greatly speeds up the workflow it reduces the number of steps it makes those wedding photographers faster and more efficient and fewer images are missing so if you are doing paid work with eye detection on a camera you know for portraits it's amazing it'll change your life if it is accurate so that's the face detection that's the eye detection if we had multiple faces in here we as i'll demonstrate in the crash course you'll be able to jump around to different faces and tell the camera which one to prioritize when the face gets very very small at some point it will drop out and revert back to face detection but there is another feature in this focusing cluster that is the tracking so you can see that we have this little off switch here and by touching on different parts of the blinds i'm telling the camera to track that subject so i'm telling it to ignore the human face and instead track the subject and when i'm ready to focus halfway shutter button depression pushing it all the way we'll take the picture the tracking on canon's dual pixel autofocus squares in the past has been pretty good it's pretty smooth it's pretty accurate it's even a little bit better now so if there's a reason you want to track a moving subject you can even try it with sports so if you wanted you know if you're doing sport shooting you want tracking i've had mixed results with this in the past uh you know in terms of the tracking i i prefer an actual square or i know where it's going to take the picture but it's just another option another tool in the tool bag and when i jump back to my face i'm back in eye detection if we are on square tracking and want to turn it off you just push right there so we've talked about the how we've talked about the when and now we have talked about the where the actual clusters i like the dedicated button for it so it just makes it easier to you know select the square you want the i think the easiest way to get the focusing modes is the mfn button it's right here just flip it over so i like having those those dedicated controls so we've spent some good time on the auto focus i want to show you some really cool tools for manual focusing and to get into manual focus i'm reaching over and i'm pushing the lens switch from af to mf the moment we do that we get this little distance indicator where it's telling us how far away the camera is focusing uh from the focal plane of the sensor right in the past of uh film days camera film days movie film days they would have to actually measure the distance from the camera to the subject in order to get things in focus we're kind of spoiled now we have all these great tools so the first thing you get is this distance indicator i think this works better when we can designate where the focusing square is we can zoom in i'm in auto focus mode but if i go if i flip back over to manual i'm still on that same spot i can zoom in even closer and this is something that i refer to as manual zoom focus it's super powerful for macro photography where you don't want the camera adjusting its focus you want to get it locked down i also do it for video if i want a very specific place to focus on i'll select an area i'll zoom in and i will get precise focus using the focusing ring on the lens you'll notice we're at 15 x magnification once i have it i zoom out and then i continue shooting that is referred to as manual zoom focusing there is another fantastic tool that i want to demonstrate refer to as peaking focus it's going to work great for manual focus we come into our purple tab page tube the purple tab is mostly auto focus settings we are going to select mf peaking and turn that to on high and red what peaking is is a red overlay you can kind of see this faint red outline and what's happening here is the monitor is putting this red pixelation over areas of contrast and what it's basically saying is that the highest points of contrast is where it is the sharpest because when i zoom out and i make it blurry we lose that red overlay peaking focus is usually pretty accurate but there are times in cases where you'll think you'll have it and you don't really have it and so when you try to zoom in we lose the peaking we can we can get close and dialed in precisely but peaking is in my opinion useful if you want a general idea where your depth of field is and you just want to see it and kind of get it in that ballpark and that is our peaking settings and turn this off we also have these other colors in here yellow and blue if you prefer those i'm going to turn the autofocus back on there's a couple customizations i just want to point out real quick as you become more advanced sports photographers a lot of them prefer back button focusing it basically means the camera is not going to focus until they push this button now it's already doing this it's already set up for this but in order to remove the auto focus from the shutter button we have to customize it so we back out we're going to come into our button customizations we're going to customize the button and so to get classic back button focus and we want to remove the autofocus you would come in here and select ok at that point pushing the halfway shutter button down will not engage focusing it will only meter for beginners and everybody else i would say stay here for now until you get the hang of it because we're on the topic of focusing there is something i want to talk about in the deep menu real quick is just mentioning here is the tuck touch and drag auto focus settings what this does is it turns your back monitor into a joystick i don't believe this is necessary but there may be some reasons ergonomic reasons that you may want to use your back screen i am a left-eyed dominant shooter which means i put my eye here and my nose is usually you know bumps the screen and so i don't like this because it moves the focusing squares around you know when i'm looking through the viewfinder by using my notes right ride-eyed shooters if their nose is over here they don't seem to have as much of a problem with it and there are a lot of people who love this but when this feature is turned on we have the ability to activate certain parts of the back monitor to become the new joystick depending on your preference you can put it top bottom left right wherever you want it you know just depending on your needs depending on what you're doing you can turn the back monitor into a giant joystick basically we're going to keep it on whole panel and there's different basically sensitivities in terms of how far you you run your finger how far do you want this focusing square to move it's preference so much of this is preference it just comes down to who you are and what kind of shooting you're doing coming back out real quick i want to talk about some of the focusing tools in video so we're going to jump into video now the focusing modes that you select for video are going to depend on what you are doing who you are publishing to and what you want them to see for a lot of narrative work it's all locked down so you're manually focusing the first ac is operating the focus control he's keeping making sure it's in focus where it should be but with the release of the canon 70d i believe was it just changed everything in that we're able to just touch on the screen and change our focus from one point to another so the servo af allows us to do this is that by touching on certain subjects we can rack the focus we can move and change the focus very smoothly without interruption and filmmakers do this to change the attention of the viewer you see this all the time in hollywood where you have somebody standing and there might be something on a table you touch on the table and the focus goes to the table and the viewer sees it's a very common popular technique in narrative film work if we're doing let's say vlogging for example we may want to go with eye detection if we're too far away we may want to come in and go with face detection so i'm pushing the info button instead of coming back to the screen if you want a different eye we can touch on it if we don't want help from the servo we would turn that off and now we're in manual mode so these are all important aspects of focusing to consider when we are focusing for movies let's talk about our metering modes real quick metering deals with how the camera is measuring light that's entering into the camera the easiest way for me to teach this is to come into our metering modes and to select the spot metering mode when we do this you can see that we get this circle in the middle of the camera and i'm going to take this light and turn it on and hold it in front of the camera so i got this headlamp right what will happen is that as i move the light into the circle you'll notice that the shutter speed changes to be very fast when i move it outside of the circle we get that normal even exposure and in fact as long as i hold that light outside of the circle none of the exposure change settings really change that much it's it's when i move it into the circle the camera gets darker so what's happening here what's happening is the camera is only measuring light from this circle in the spot metering mode it's ignoring everything else and that's what metering modes do is they tell the camera to measure a light from specific parts of the frame spot metering mode is great if you're shooting in like heavily backlit situations you have all this light coming into the corners maybe you're taking a picture of a person and you're just telling the camera hey just measure light right from this one spot and that's what the camera does the most useful of the two are spot metering mode and the evaluated metering mode which breaks the frame up into different zones think of it that way where it's giving more emphasis to different parts than others and we can even control this more by using a partial metering mode and a center weighted average where you're expanding how much of the data it's looking at if we were to use the light again you can kind of see that as we get to the further outside it kind of ignores the light again so if you're just getting started or you know intermediate shooter i would say for now stick with evaluative when you get into maybe shooting backlit portraits you know things of that nature you might want to start looking at the spot metering in some of these other settings we're moving into the deep menu system to get there we're going to press the menu button obviously and canon's menu systems for years generally the consensus is they are the best they're the most organized well thought out there is also a ton of information in here and for the sake of time and simplicity i'm going to take you through some of the settings and information that i think pretty much everybody has to know if it's a feature in shooting i will be covering that on the crash course so i'll take you through and i'll demonstrate how the feature works and how to get the most out of the camera for example the menu is broken up into color tabs at the top and we can navigate by touching on those tabs obviously you can see that the color differences are very distinct red is for shooting what you will also notice is that under each tab we have these numbers and those are individual pages so if you want to navigate through the pages you could use a joystick you can touch i try to use a corner of my finger you can see that because the tabs and the pages are very close sometimes you'll accidentally hit them we also get this prompt over here on the far right that tells us a little bit about something that the page that we're on so shooting page 8. there are many ways to navigate through the tabs and pages for example if you wanted to navigate through the page we could use the primary selector if we wanted to navigate through the tabs we could use the top rear selector to navigate through the items themselves we'd use the back scroll wheel so red is for shooting purple is for auto focusing blue is for playback the purple tab is for network wi-fi connectivity things of that nature the yellow wrench is the camera setup orange is our custom settings green is our my menu which allows us to determine which features we want to appear on here it's a little bit easier and faster to access if you only have a few items that you you want in one location tab one page one image quality this is how the files are going to be recorded to the memory card this is specific for images you will notice in the top right hand corner it gives you a symbol of the type of compression for jpegs and the size of the file so in this case 45 megapixels it's giving us the resolution in terms of pixels wide and pixels tall and then it's giving us the number of shots that we can take remaining on our memory card if we didn't want jpeg oh and you can notice that we get these symbols here for the different control wheels so if i wanted to go with raw i could select raw or wanted no jpeg i would turn it off and you will notice that the moment i select raw we lose a lot of the space and the reason is raw files are much larger there's all the color information you can process raw files far greater than jpegs jpegs throw away about anywhere from 70 to 85 percent of the information and you're limited in terms of how far you can edit them we also have the c-raw compact raw and you'll notice that we get an extra 1500 or so images it's a smaller size file that retains pretty much all of the color information think of c-raw as a more efficient type of raw file without losing a lot of the color information as we would with jpegs so if i don't want any raw select it to this little dash and then we come down to jpegs and you can all obviously touch on the monitor you'll notice we have these different icons a smooth edge l and a jagged l that deals with compression and compression basically has the processor or the computer of the camera makes the decision to throw away certain kinds of information it's basically when two pixels are close enough in color the camera just says ah they're the same color and when it does this for the entire image it reduces the amount of file size so you know same file size you'll notice up here in the top right see the resolution is the same but we can get far greater shots remaining on our memory card and when i was a wedding photographer full time this was you know obviously something i was looking at because i'd go out and shoot four or five thousand images and so i studied this i took pictures and i looked at them and i to the naked eye this is very difficult to see i couldn't see it even to the trained eye and i came to the conclusion that for workflow reasons jagged l was the way to go never had a customer complain about it nothing like that and i later learned that many other high-end wedding photographers also shot on jagged l when we get into the medium size you'll start to notice that we lose resolution 22 megapixels which is sufficient for an eight by ten there's a lot of things you can use 22 megapixel image for and some photographers they're they're happy with that but the advice that i give is shoot in on l if you're nervous about the compression to shoot on smooth l but shoot on l because you can always make the files smaller you can make the image in the resolution smaller no problem it's a little bit harder to take it small and make it large there is some great software available now that that is doing this better than ever but in my opinion always better to shoot larger than you think you're going to need because you can you can always go down easily 22 megapixels for medium 12 megapixels for small one and then we have small two which is 3.8 megapixels so this would be for something like you know posting something on ebay if that's all you do is you know put images on ebay then yeah sure it makes sense to shoot at s2 but most of us bought this camera for the full resolution so i would recommend starting on l dual pixel raw is a feature that we originally saw if my memory serves me correctly on the canon 5d mark iv and it has to do with the dual pixel technology in canon cameras that basically it allows you to take raw images that have two slightly different perspectives we're talking about super mute and the idea was that you could shift focus a little bit you know in post and the truth of the matter is it didn't work that great obviously this increases the file size and for the amount of file size you're getting in the raw it doesn't really justify doing this rate you're just not getting a lot of benefits so i just recommend you know not using it cropping an aspect ratio we talked about a little bit already where we can crop out the area that we're shooting with in some cases you know if you're shooting for instagram and you just want to see that square this is where you come in and do it pretty straightforward if we want to have it masked or outlined we can come in and determine that as well so it's page one exposure compensation auto exposure bracketing i'll be giving a demonstration of this on the crash course there's our exposure compensation bracket and if we remember we can shift the exposure in one direction or another but we have this new symbol down here where if we rotate the primary selector we get a new set of features appearing these little tick marks popping off on the sides so what auto exposure bracketing means is that the camera will change the exposure settings between three shots and in this case it'll take one image that's three stops underexposed one image that's at an even exposure and one image at an overexposure of three stops and the idea on this is that in some cases you maybe you're in a high dynamic range area you have lots of shadows lots of highlights and you want to capture all of the information you know in one you can't do it in one image the camera is limited in terms of how much dynamic range you can it can capture in one image so the way you get around that is you take different exposures and and this in the past is what we would do for high dynamic range images we'd take three pictures and we would put them together in photoshop and we could get these really crazy amazing pictures right the cool thing about this is that we can shift the direction of that bracket so we're getting at plus six or minus six and uh it's there are times and places that this is super powerful if you're an indoor architecture photographer let's say you're doing real estate images and you're taking pictures of the of the indoors you're going to find out your windows are going to be overexposed right so you'll take an extra picture for the outside and blend those together in posts oh and it wants us to put it back to that to end it our iso speed settings a lot of this information is pretty straightforward we can change our iso setting here we can increase the maximum range if you wanted to get the full range of the camera you put it at 102 400 the auto iso range we can also determine if you didn't want the camera turning it up too high we could turn it down a little bit and then the minimum shutter speed the camera is using with auto iso we can determine so auto is going to make the decision when we come down to manual we're going to tell the camera hey don't use a slower shutter speed than 1 125th of a second so if you remember that example of the mma you know match and you don't want the camera using slow shuttle shutter speeds for example in aperture priority or it's making its own decisions you would come in here and set this this does not apply to manual mode but if you're in the program or the aperture priority mode where the camera is choosing the shutter speed it does apply hit okay hdr pq pq stands for perceptual quantization this has to do with the input signal for displaying hdr images and this is the first time i've seen it on a canon camera beyond the scope of what a beginning or intermediate photographer would want to know about suffice it to say we can determine how the hdr images would be displayed whether we want to give priority to mid tones or highlights this is the exact kind of thing that i would like to go into on the crash course auto lighting optimizer is a setting that basically gives jpegs a contrast and a slight sharpness bump think of auto light optimizer as applying a little bit of contrast a little teeny bit of processing to your jpeg images it's disabled in manual and bulb modes and it's it's something that you know if you don't do a lot of processing you might want to have it done automatically in the camera this is where you set the level of that from low standard or high highlight tone priority gives the camera permission to make a very slight shift in highlights to capture the detail in those highlights i almost never use it let's say you have a lot of reflections in your shot with lots of detail being lost and you don't want to deal with in post this is where you would come in and turn it on to enable or enhanced it's not something i really use anti-flicker shooting we talked a little bit about this this is where we can disable it in the menu external speedlite control i have a full course on the canon speedlight 600 exrt in the st e3 transmitter and i go into pretty much everything you want to know about those systems this feature allows us to control many things about speed lights from the camera and as a general rule of thumb i control speed lights from the speed lights it's just a lot easier you can you can change some things in the menu but if you forget about it and you you it just gets it starts getting a little bit confusing so i always recommend changing it from the flash this allows us to control certain settings about the flash from the camera but because we don't have a built-in flash it's not it's not really something i really use that much i always do it through the speed light or the transmitter itself godox makes a pretty good speed light for about 110 dollars it's the tt 685c i have not tested that out on the r5 because i have speed lights right but in the past it works great with canon cameras white balance we talked about this is the menu location to choose our white balance settings we talked about custom white balance if we take a picture of something white we would come in and hit set and then change our white balance to custom white balance shift and bracket this is something that on canon cameras i've never used i have used it on other camera systems i don't know why but canon colors they just look great to me they always look accurate if my white balance set up correctly and i've never had to shift it what this does is it allows you to change how your white balance appears so if you think you got it set up and it's like a little bit reddish you would go in the opposite direction and this is something that again beginning and intermediate photographers or videographers don't even worry about it for now but if you want to fine-tune your white balance this is how you would do it the colors obviously are green red through amber magenta in blue and so we can shift between those those four colors you can also shift it up and it gives us some information about what we've changed but again this is something i've never used on any canon camera ever color space most of us are using srgb if you are shooting for a magazine and you need adobe rgb you would come in here and select adobe rgb picture style these are the recipes that the camera is using to create jpegs that's how i like to think of them and you will notice that we have these six variables on the top to see what those variables are we're going to come into the detail set and we can see that the first three deal with sharpness in terms of the strength of the sharpness the fineness of the sharpness and the threshold of the sharpness then we have contrast saturation and color tone in the beginning for beginning and intermediate photographers i would say don't even worry about these the idea behind them is that you can get slightly different color schemes depending on what you're shooting for example if you are shooting portraits you can get more accurate flesh tones when you use the portrait picture style if you're shooting landscapes you get more vivid blues and greens shooting landscape if you're shooting something that requires fine detail you can get better sharpness using fine detail and so on so you get the idea monochrome is black and white and then we also have these user-defined picture styles so we can come in here and tweak to our heart's content but if you're still learning the camera i would say don't worry about this until you've got a grasp of exposure and focusing and some of those other features and then you can come in here and tweak this very popular among videographers to come in to picture styles and to to create custom user-defined picture styles where they're turning down their sharpness they're turning down their contrast and they're turning down their color because they want to process and add those and tweak them in post it's sort of like a slight workaround for not having you know raw video which we have we have ak raw video but keep that in mind this is applying to jpegs video is a form of jpeg and it allows the operator to tweak the output of those jpeg images clarity has to do with the edge sharpness of our subject matter and if you wanted to increase the clarity you could bump it up or you could turn it down it's also something you can do in post if if you notice that your jpegs lack clarity you can experiment with it beginners i would say don't worry about this lens aberration correction there's actually a lot of good information in here and the way it works is that camera manufacturers in this case canon make their lenses identifiable when they connect to the camera so when we put our 24 to 105 on our r5 the r5 recognizes it specifically as that lens lenses have defects in them that we never see for example uh vignetting so darkening in the corners and sometimes you'll see it on wide angle lenses you'll see it just a little bit but what happens is camera manufacturers put software into their cameras to clean up the lens defects to make the lenses appear like they're working better than they really are and for most part we don't even notice it okay so there's lots of different kinds of correction going on peripheral illumination correction has vignetting cleans it up we have distortion correction so if we're shooting wide and get that pin cushion look where things are kind of stretched out we could turn this on it would correct it the digital lens optimizer cleans up a number of other defects including chromatic aberration which is a color fringing we see on edges there should also be things like diffraction where we lose sharpness as we increase our f-stop suffice it to say these are custom profiles that make the lenses work better now when we connect lenses from other manufacturers that are not recognized by the system for example third-party lenses then we lose those benefits and so sometimes i get the question is it better to use canon lenses on canon bodies most of the time if you know cost isn't a problem yeah it is because you get these lens profiles in the cameras cleaning it up and this becomes more important for videographers because videographers you know a lot of times they're shooting in jpeg and they want to try to get it right in camera and it's kind of hard to clean up vignetting you know on a jpeg video file probably too much information but suffice it to say this is there's a lot of good stuff in here canon's rf lenses are incredible they are i think they're the best i know a lot of people are going to not like me saying that but collectively it's probably the best lens lineup in the world just one man's opinion long exposure noise reduction deals with images over one second and and when we're dealing with one second exposures typically we're also shooting in low light situations which gives us this grainy variation because of shot noise there's a video i made on it suffice it to say this helps clean this up if you're if you're shooting long exposures turn it on to auto the camera will kick it on automatically after you get over that one second or you can just turn it on when you're using a long exposure noise reduction the processing takes a little bit longer keep that in mind high iso noise reduction is something i recommend leaving on standard so as you bump your iso up the camera can clean up a lot of that grain and noise in some cases it'll do it by trying to blend or smooth it and so sometimes you'll see this almost like a softness appearing but standard in the past has worked fantastic for me and it's typically where i leave it on canon cameras dust delete data on the crash course i will teach you how to clean your sensor there's a couple different tools that i use that make it pretty easy to see the dust if you don't have those tools it's it's pretty nerve-wracking because you don't really know what you're cleaning but i will demonstrate this on the crash course the dust delete data basically is a software cleanup where you have spec on you know a thousand images and this allows you to clean up that dust with software it actually happened to me once on a wedding i just missed a sensor spec and it was on every image and we had to go in and post and clean it up it was not fun but i didn't even do it from the camera i did it manually using photoshop and some automations my advice on this is that if you have a really important shoot check your sensor for sensor dust all you need to do is to take a picture of a cloud at f22 inspect the image and you if you have it you'll see these little specs and in some cases you might have to go in there and clean it but but clean it up before the important shoot multiple exposure mode is pretty cool it's a little gimmicky but there is an application that looks great and i will demonstrate this on the crash course as i will with hdr mode if you don't have time for auto exposure bracketing and you're shooting that sunset hdr mode is the way to go you have a bunch of different options in here including turning it on to different exposure levels we have different processing effects do you want it for one shot or every shot auto align yes save the source images yes it's a pretty cool feature focus bracketing is another lesson i'll demonstrate on the crash course it allows us to program the focus of the camera to change between each shot up to 100 shots the reason why this is important is if you're doing close-up or macro photography is you want to maximize your depth of field you also want to maximize your sharpness and if you start using f-stops that are very small you lose sharpness you get more depth of field but you lose sharpness and so the way macro photographers get around this is they take multiple images changing the focusing point and then stacking them together and this is the way to do it if you're doing macro focus stacking is the way to go it's a really cool fun feature the interval timer allows us to program the camera to take images at certain intervals so we would come in here we hit enable come into the detail set we would choose the interval between each shot and the total number of shots and then the camera would automatically take these pictures in the past you had to buy something called an intervalometer that would program the camera you plug it in to the port and you know that's how you do it now we have it built into most modern cameras i will demonstrate this on the crash course as well with a sunset we have the ability to use a bulb timer and we'd have to be in bulb mode to see it so we're going to go into bulb mode turn it on come into the info set and this is going to program the camera to take the bulb exposure so we don't have to keep our finger pressed on the shutter button the whole time and it hit okay three seconds right see my finger is not on it really nice if you do a lot of bulb exposures so this is a basically a built-in bulb remote so you don't have to hold the shutter button down or use an external remote very nice shutter mode we've talked about right now i am on mechanical that means i have a physical curtain for the first part of the exposure sensor is covered first curtain drops down we take the picture second curtain drops down to end it and then it resets electronic first curtain is when the sensor is exposed already we take the shot starts and when it ends a mechanical shutter comes up ends the exposure and resets and the electronic shutter is that we do not use either of those it's just an electronic shutter and we've talked about some of the artifacts with those already release shutter without card is just like it sounds do you want to be able to take pictures without a memory card in there ultimately it's going to tell you if you don't have a memory card in there so it's not a big deal but i do remember getting an email from a couple who who had a camera that they were convinced there was an internal memory and there wasn't took it on their vacation touch shutter i usually leave it turned off because i bump the monitor image review has to do with the automatic playback of the images so when you're shooting do you want the images to be displayed if so how long we can turn that off if we're doing sport shooting we don't want to mess with it we can also review through the viewfinder pretty cool high speed display you'll notice is turned off in this situation and so you might be wondering how do you turn it on it wants a couple things from us first it wants to be in servo change that it also wants us to be on high speed continuous in the case of a mechanical shutter so this is why it was grayed out now we have it what this feature does is that when we're using a high speed burst for sports for example it is going to allow us to track that moving subject with greater accuracy instead of dealing with you know playing images back or slowing down there are a couple times it won't work so if you're not in servo mode for example or if you are using a long shutter speed longer than 1 30th of a second or an f-stop greater than f11 this won't will not be working you won't have access to it if you do a lot of sport shooting you're probably going to be using it and another part of this is that when we use electronic shutter curtains this is automatically turned on so this is a great option if you're a sports shooter and you want to have that ability to track the images a little bit smoother between shots you would come in here and try that out the metering timer deals with how long the aperture or the shutter speed is being displayed so if we're getting our camera set up do you want those numbers to turn off at a certain time and if so we can determine that time exactly exposure simulation very important for beginners because it allows you to preview how bright or dark your images will be the one time i turn this off is when i am shooting strobes and the reason is strobes introduce different kinds of lights while as we're shooting it doesn't really give us an accurate preview anyway and sometimes studios are dark and so when you turn off exposure simulation the camera will basically get the monitor of your subject bright enough so you can focus it's not previewing the shot it just allows you to see where things are your focus points lined up and then when you fire the strobe and you're adding this light you would review the image and adjust accordingly but every other example that in terms of my shooting it's turned on enable i get a lot of emails from students asking why they're not getting a preview it's this feature right here on page seven shooting information display allows us to determine different kinds of information appearing as we are shooting in live view so if we come into our screen info settings you can see we get these different check marks right for those those screens we were scrolling through if we didn't want all those screens we could uncheck that screen and it would not appear as we toggle our info button something else we can do is we can come into each of these screens and determine which information is appearing you know general information is appearing on this particular screen as well so lots of customization we also have settings for our viewfinder vertical display or grid display histogram and a focusing distance remember when i hit that manual focus we got that little grid that popped up we can change those units to meters or feet very nice finally page eight we have our viewfinder display format if you wanted to determine how your electronic viewfinder was showing information we could change it our display performance do you want it to be super smooth it's going to take more battery life or do you want to do power saving those two options and that is the red tab that's shooting this bright purple tab deals with all things auto focus we can choose the focusing mode auto server or one shot the method if we're talking about the clusters the subject to detect this deals with the faced detection so if we're dealing with people animals or no priority very nice keep with people eye detection i think is something easier determined as we're shooting with that little eye icon that we demonstrated continuous autofocus is a feature that tells the camera to essentially pre-focus before you push the shutter button halfway down so the camera is constantly focusing i recommend leaving it turned off and we also already talked about the touch and drag settings using the back monitor to essentially be our new focus point director i don't use it because we have a joystick but we talked about that in the focusing lesson manual peaking settings we've talked about this gives us an overlay to see about where the camera is focusing the focus assist guide is a focusing tool for manual focusing if you're not in manual focus you won't see it we're going to turn this on and tap the shutter button now i'm going to flip to manual focus and this is the tool right here in the past we would normally see this on certain cinema cameras for canon and you notice that we have a box with a tick mark straight up and these tick marks on the side it's out of focus the idea on this is that as we rotate our focus ring we get these tick marks and they're starting to come together and when they point to that top tick mark they turn green it's a focusing tool that tells us when we are manually dialed in i don't use it a whole lot i'm using the joystick to move it around a little bit and it's it's looking for these areas of contrast again it's another tool in the toolbox i think um the manual zoom focusing is a little bit more accurate because i know what i'm getting but that's what it does auto focus assist beam firing deals with canon speed lights there is a little infrared focus assist beam that turns on and helps determine the distance and i would just recommend leaving this turned on because in the past i've had students turn it off and not really know and we had to go through the menus and find out what was happening and why their speed light was missing so much the short answer on this is just leave it turned on for now page three in the focusing tab allows us to determine different types of servo auto focus so when we go from one shot to servo we have the ability to change how our servo is behaving where we can determine the tracking sensitivity of a moving subject as well as if it's accelerating or decelerating this is going to depend largely on the type of sport or motion that you're shooting it tries to give you you know some of the information in the beginning stick with servo one but as you become a specialist or if you're already familiar with the types of sports and the motions that you're shooting you would come in here and tweak this to taste again this i would say this is for more advanced expert type shooters coming into page four on the purple tab there's a couple of things in here that you will want to know about uh lens electronic manual focus by default is turned off if you turn this to on essentially what it allows us to do is if we are in one shot and we get a focus and holding the shutter button down we decide to rotate the manual focus ring is that we can tweak it just a little bit probably not something the beginner would need to know about but it's there if you need it the other options down here that are i think are worthwhile are limiting which clusters are available if you didn't want all eight of those clusters available you know as you're selecting your cluster squares you can turn these off you'll notice that we can't turn off a single square another pretty useful tool is the orientation linked auto focus point this is something that i'd probably recommend turning on and what it does is it tells the camera to remember the focusing square based on its last orientation so let's say you're shooting some type of subject and you have it composed in a very specific way for horizontal orientation versus vertical and those focusing points are changing so as you're changing the camera back and forth this feature makes it so you don't have to re-change your focusing square every time you move the camera into that vertical or horizontal orientation focus selection control this deals with selecting the clusters and the way it's set up right now is that we push the cluster button and we can toggle with the mfn button if you wanted to you know use maybe that primary selector wheel you would choose this the rest of this stuff i would probably not really worry about right now we have the prioritization in one shot do you want it to get focus lock or do you want it to make sure it takes the picture we have switching for tracked subjects what happens when the lens doesn't find autofocus we can tell it to stop searching and then finally we are on page five of the purple tab initial auto focus point for face detection and tracking by default auto is fine but it also allows us to determine if we wanted to start with a particular cluster we have which direction the focus ring is changing focus this is very specific if you have a particular preference we can also determine the sensitivity of our manual focusing ring whether it's determined by the speed or the degree how far we're rotating it and then we also have our joystick sensitivity for auto focus point we want to make it more or less sensitive these are all preference settings for how we're operating the focusing of the camera that's our purple tab coming into the playback a lot of this stuff is pretty straightforward it has to deal with like it sounds how we play our images back we can protect our images by selecting individual images and when we push the set button we get a key icon this will prevent us from accidentally deleting it in camera however it does not protect when we format our memory cards it's something to keep in mind i almost never protect my images simply because i don't really delete in camera unless i know it's a terrible image we can select a range or all the images in a folder we can unprotect everything we can protect everything on the card or unprotect everything on the card i don't really erase a lot of images in camera because there have been many times where i've i've thought i've taken a bad shot and i look at it on my computer and it turns out to be fine in some cases like one of my favorite shots so i usually don't delete on camera a whole lot but we can select and erase images by a range all the images in a folder or all the images on the card the probably most useful time to do this is if you have a memory card and you're running out of space and you're still on a shoot and you're like oh man i wish i had another you know 100 shots that could take then you might want to do it that has happened to me so just something to know rotating the stills if we want to rotate it in camera we'd come in here and press the set button i'm obviously rotating this it's better just to have the camera do it automatically change movie rotate information allows us to determine how this will be displayed on smartphones so if we right now the top on a smartphone is here but now the top is over here you can see this little triangle determining so if you were shooting for let's say something you're going to post on instagram or you know some sort of vertical video file this allows us to determine which of those sides will be up before you import it to your smartphone i'll leave it there rating we can rate in the in the deep menu we have the rate button right here the way it works is we come in and we determine the star rating you can see as i move the scroll wheel over i've given this a five star rating so when i import rated images into lightroom or camera raw these ratings are remembered and so if you know you got an awesome shot you know you have hundreds of images you can just rate it and mark it so when you pull it in you can easily access it and find where the image is we can do the rating by range all the images in a folder are all the images in a card image copy allows to move images from one card to another my cf express card isn't here yet it should be here in a couple days i'll demonstrate how to do this on the crash course pretty straightforward i don't use the camera to print images and the reason is i spent a lot of money on this camera and i like taking my memory card out and downloading the images and looking at them or putting them into the printer themselves but there is a way that we can connect our camera to a computer and we can determine the print order so if we have no other way of connecting to a printer or you know a computer this is how you could print straight from the camera photo book setup i've never used it it allows us to select images and basically put together a little photo book in camera raw processing allows us to take our raw images and convert them into jpegs so we come in we would select image okay and then we can also go to the high efficiency format let's just say jpeg for example just to see these features and over on the right you can see we can adjust our brightness the white balance it's a mini raw converter built in camera iso image quality and we can actually save this to a jpeg save it as a new file and then we would have access to that converted raw file without needing to put it onto a computer i do almost all my processing on a computer and it's asking am i done processing yep i'm done and it kicks me out we can also apply it to a range of images if we wanted to dual pixel raw processing deals with changing the dual pixel raw feature again i don't really think it's something worth doing i don't think it's even worth the time or the effort but it's there if you need it we can resize our images if we wanted to depending on the resolution medium to small small two we can crop images so using the rear thumb wheel on the top we can determine the crop of it we wanted to tilt it in a direction one direction or another so you can see that kind of hard to see you can see the edges changing that i am cropping it in a direction we can change the aspect ratio of the crop we can save it or we can exit so we have the ability to crop images in camera so the high efficiency image format is something that if we take let's say hdrpq images that those are going to be high vital files i don't even know if i'm saying that right but if you want to convert those files into jpegs this is where we could do it slideshow allows us to basically turn the camera into a slideshow we take an hdmi cable we plug it into a monitor or tv we used to do this at weddings and we would come in here and we would hit start and we can determine how long each of the images are showing for example three seconds to loop it we don't have a lot of control over which you know images we're showing but suffice it to say this allows us to play images on a monitor it was a great fun thing to do right after a ceremony at a wedding reception set image search conditions is that when we're searching for images do we want to do it by the star rating do we want to do it by the time the folder the protected files what type of file we have whether it's a video or a still so lots of ways to search through approximate magnification this guy so when we use the magnifying glass for playing back an image how much do you want to zoom in the initial one there's 2x and if i want to zoom in i can rotate the rear thumb wheel pretty straightforward when we play back images if we rotate the primary selector you can see that we can jump through a certain number of images at a time and we can control that in this setting do you want to be one image 10 images do you want to be a specified number of images in this case 30 do you want to jump by date by folder movies only stills only protected or rated so we can control how we jump through our images i'll be honest with you like if i'm if i'm really searching for something what i'll do is i i'll play the image and i'll do i'll start doing this and you can just keep on pushing in until you you have it looks like hundreds of them and then i'll just use the you know the scroll scroll bar over here you can touch and drag through the settings and find the image that's usually what how i really do it but we have this option switch these two controls is basically saying uh when we're playing back images we can image jump or magnify if you want to flip those based on this top thumb button in the primary selector we can do so by hitting enable see how it switches them leave it on disable the rate button this determines how this guy works right here when we're playing back images so the idea on this is that if you tap the button if you push it once and release it will do the item on the left if you push and hold it will perform the function on the right by default it is the rate button and the microphone record button so let me demonstrate this real quick is is that when i'm playing an image back we could press the rate button just pushing it will change those stars right however if we push and hold it you can say testing one two testing one two and you can see that we get up to 30 seconds of record time on the image file so if it was a great shot i would say hey this is an amazing shot right and then we release it so this allows us to embed audio information into our files we've seen this on higher end canon cameras for a long time coming back in to the rate button we can determine how these operations work and if we want to play that back using the rate button we would choose push for playback hold to record and if i hit play so the idea on that is that we we have the ability to play it back if you want so this menu item allows you to determine how you are using this button i kind of like the the playback if i want to play a note but if you want both the rate in the microphone you're going to have to go with this i think there should be one that would also allow you to play back but i don't see it in here we also have the ability to use it to protect or erase images but i think the most two useful ones are those two memo audio quality if we don't really care about the quality we can record at a lower quality if we wanted to and that brings us to page five playback information display so when we're playing the images in playback what is some of the data you want to see so when we we hit play and i start toggling info you can see with the number of shots we've taken battery life you can see that we have the audio file embedded here we have our exif data in terms of our exposure settings if we continue to toggle you can see that we have the scroll wheel here we can go up or down see all kinds of information about the file just depending on what you want to see and if i continue to press info i'm brought back to this play again so this is asking which of those screens you want to see and you can turn them off if you really didn't want to see them or not highlight alert allows us to see it's like a flashing see i'm sure i have one in here somewhere overexposure is that it there it is so now it's flashing anything that is over exposed will flash this is a pure overexposed shot it was the bulb shot i did and so this is useful if you want to know what parts of your image are overexposed like if you you know overexpose your sky it would be blinking on the sky auto focus point display tells us where our focus square was when we took the picture that is very different than where the camera was focusing because if you remember we can recompose we can get a focusing lock and holding that shutter button halfway down if we change the position well now the focal plane isn't where the focus square was so this just tells us the square that was used playback grid if we want an overlay on the image that we're playing back tic-tac-toe grid 6x4 or tic-tac-toe with diagonals we can do that there it is the movie play count you can play it by the record time or the time code and then we have our hdmi hdr output so if we are exporting to a recorder like the ninja five i'll demonstrate the setup on the crash course but if you're out putting hdmi hdr you would want this turn on that's the blue tab i hope i have enough time to show you how to connect with your smartphone through wi-fi to remote control the camera you can also download images to your smartphone it's really great we also have a five gigahertz wi-fi connectivity from the camera which will allow us to automate images downloading directly to a cloud service or even our computer obviously beyond the scope of this video if i do a video on that automatic download i will put that link in the description or maybe somebody else will do a good one and i'll put that link in there just know that this is really revolutionizing our workflow where we can set our camera up to download images without taking the memory card out of the camera but hopefully we'll have some time at the end of this menu section to cover the wi-fi stuff i know i'm trying to hurry now because i know the lesson's getting long yellow tab allows us to control the camera settings record function card folder selection this deals with when we have multiple cards in the camera how do we want to manage our stills versus our video so we can see that the stills option is designated with the camera silhouette and the video recording option is designated with a like a film camera so the idea on this is it's asking do you want to keep your photos and your videos separate so when we turn this on what will happen is our video files would go to our cf express card and our still images would go to our sd card when we come to the record options for stills only we have some other features standard is it's just recording to a memory card and auto switch card means when you fill up it's going to automatically switch to the other card we can record jpeg in raw files into separate cards or we can record images to both cards at the same time time this is very popular for professional photographers who want backups the video record options are a little bit different in that we can also switch to memory cards once the first card fills up and we can also determine that our raw video files would go to our cf express card and our mp4 video files would go to our sd card the record and play option basically means is that right now when we are shooting and playing we're going from the number two card for video when we're shooting and playing also we're going from the number two card if i had my second the cf express card in there we would have different options finally we have the ability to choose the folder that we're shooting in or we can create a brand new folder and change the folder name we could come in here and type what we wanted for example really powerful if if you're doing multiple shoots in a day you want to keep things separate for now just going to leave it on this hit okay come back out file numbering deals with the numbering of the files themselves as we are recording the images to the memory cards continuous means is that it's going to keep on continuing even if you switch the memory card it's going to pick up where it left off auto reset sets it back to zero zero zero one we can also hit a manual reset that will set it to zero zero zero one whenever we do that there for now the file name deals with the four sets of letters in front of the files when we come into file name we have a default and we also have these two custers michael andrew the maven is what that stands for and uh we can also add the image size if we want so we have a default setting default name and we also have a user setting so if i wanted to change this to be michael andrew photography for example hit ok then all of those images would be michael andrew photographer if we wanted to go into this plus the image size we could do that as well it basically gives us some options to choose how our file names are set up we can format the memory card i would definitely recommend making sure you have at least two backups before you format your memory card there's a workflow and a process to it typically i come home start uploading files start charging my batteries from the shoot while those are uploading and then i create a duplicate online there's a number of different ways you can do this i usually have two hard drives that have it plus the cloud version of it that my assistant has so we try to keep copy in separate places but format your memory card will erase everything from scratch and you should be doing it regularly after you have at least two copies auto rotate i recommend leaving here this will rotate your portrait orientation images for cameras and computers we can add the rotate information for videos i think i demonstrated that in the blue section in order to add it when we take it out of the camera we'd have to enable this and then we have our date and time set up second page deals with the language canon has a ton of different languages in here this will you know if you have a native language that isn't english it'll allow you to read it in in your native language ntsc for those of us in the united states if you're on the pal system shooting at 25 frames per second you would choose pal the help text basically choose how large that text is we have our beep so if we don't want to hear the beep when we're touching the screen or at all we could just come in and turn it off headphone volume we saw this in the overlay of the video section but we can also change it here power saving is i've set this up so i can teach without the camera turning off but if you want to save you know your battery power you can have the camera display turn off after a minute or auto power off completely after 30 seconds just depends on your preference the eco mode is a battery saving feature that will essentially turn the camera into a more dim screen if this is turned on so when you're shooting it's brighter but when you stop shooting it becomes dim i have it turned off for now we talked about the screen in the viewfinder display options it's basically telling us how we want the evf the auto switch in the screens to work if i'm shooting on a gimbal i'll come down and just leave it on screen all the time there may be some cases where you only want the evf to work otherwise i have it set to auto two screen brightness is just like it sounds it allows us to brighten the image if you're outdoors shooting and you want to see it a little bit easier you can come in here and turn this up the viewfinder brightness is the same thing but it has to be done while you're looking through here you can't really see it on the back monitor hit okay we can even shift the color tone if you think it's should be a more blue or a more yellow type of look we can fine tune the basically the color balance of the evf if we wanted to user interface magnification kind of a cool accessibility feature it's when you double tap the menu screen if this is turned on you'll be able to see closer there it is so it allows us to see things a little bit easier page 4 hdmi resolution so when we're feeding a signal out to that ninja 5 recorder what is the resolution going out of that cable so we can have it set to auto or 1080. just depends the touch control we can make it standard sensitive or turn it off completely i think the touch control on the monitor is amazing so a standard for now the multi-function lock that's the lock button up here the one i i mentioned you want to be a little bit careful about bumping it if you bump it a lot you might want to come in here and just turn them all off just to sing otherwise that lock control when it is activated it is going to prevent us from bumping the camera and changing those settings so if i activate the lock button it's telling me which controls are locked and if i rotate those controls it's giving me the lock warning hey it's not changing so again just a preference thing if you want to have the ability to lock certain controls when we turn our camera off do you want the mechanical shutter closing the sensor i think it's cool idea to help keep sensor dust off the sensor so i have it default on closed sensor cleaning again i'll demonstrate how to physically clean your sensor if you are manually cleaning or physically cleaning the sensor you would come to clean manually and it would open the shutter and you would have access to the center sensor to clean it the auto clean features are a little bit different think of it as a vibrating filter over the sensor that kicks off the sensor dust we can clean it now we could select this to clean it now and the auto cleaning happens when we turn the camera off so if we wanted to turn the camera off we would get this cleaning notification we can also have the cleaning feature turn on when we turn the camera on or we can turn this feature off completely i'm going to leave it at power off only we can reset the camera to its factory default by selecting reset camera custom shooting we talked about to set up your c1 through c3 we would set the camera up the way we like come into this feature and register the settings for that position we can also clear the settings and we can also turn on a feature that will allow us to update those settings so as we're changing those controls it would remember the changes come back out battery information is that as the battery ages we would start to see some fatigue in it as indicated where these green boxes are and at some point if you shoot long enough the battery will eventually it won't really hold a charge it won't really last very long we can also get some other information a serial number pretty cool copyright information allows us to embed our name and our copyright details into the exif meta files of every image we take so if you wanted to include your copyright you could you would come in here type your company name perhaps hit okay go back out if you wanted to get the manual and the software url for the camera here's the qr code certification logo display typically we see in this case the fcc has certified certified and ruled that it's compliant there's no feature in there it's just saying you know this is the certification firmware eventually there is going to be a firmware update and this is the first version of the r5 and so the new version would be like 1.01 they'll address maybe the the heat issues or something something like that and so the way this works is that we download the firmware get it onto a memory card we put the memory card into the camera and the camera would recognize the new firmware and we would update it it's changing the software of how the camera operates we also have the ability to do it for the lenses and we see lens improvements occasionally depending on the bugs and issues but this allows canon to improve the software that is running the the physical camera in the lens and that is our yellow tab now we come to the orange tab which deals with the custom settings of the camera and the short answer on this is by default if you're a beginning or intermediate photographer don't worry about anything in here i'll go into depth of what these things mean on the crash course if you actually want you know the definitions and how to tweak them but the truth of the matter is i don't really change any of these personally none of them we we do have the ability to customize the buttons but i've showed you different ways to access those buttons and dials if we come in here and we change something and we're not happy with it we could clear the custom functions and it would reset it which brings us to the my menu tab this is a green tab that allows us to customize one tab of the menu and we do this by coming in and we saying okay we're going to add this let's come into configure we can rename the tab if we wanted to but the way this works is that we select things we want to register let's say image quality we'll just put that in there just as an example and maybe our iso speed settings there that is highlight tone priority there it is i'm just as an example saying these things we're going to come back out we can then sort the order of that i like image quality at the top but let's say i wanted my iso iso speed settings to be third i could move it there i can delete items i could delete all the items in the tab i can even delete the tab but in any event after i set this up i now have a page under the green tab that i have those three settings that i can jump to and the idea on this is that you don't have to go wading through you know a hundred different features to find the one that you want maybe you would put format your memory card and a couple others that you change regularly and then you would just access the green tab and that is really nice something else i also want to point out is that when you come to page two of your my menu tab you have the ability to display by default the my menu tab okay which means that as you're shooting if you hit menu it jumps just into the green so i just wanted to point that out or you can display only from the my menu tab so having shown you all of the menu features i do have to point out that in video mode the menu does change and in other modes the menu changes so let's say i come to dummy mode and i just select hey we're going to shoot in dummy mode and i come into the menu well now you'll notice that we're missing a number of pages and tabs i can't tell you how often i get emails hey how do you get the page in the tab i say yeah you're probably on you know the the automatic mode and that's one of the reasons why you're not seeing it so keep that in mind is that the menus change according to the mode we're in and a quick way to change to video mode is just hit the mode button and then info and then we're in it tap the shutter button really quick way if you're into efficiency now we're in the video mode and when i press the menu button we retain our my menu but you can see that the still features are grayed out we only have highlight tone priority missions coming back into the video stuff you will notice that our page one is now different instead of having our quality settings we have our resolution so we can come in and determine the resolution on the top row this is the pixel dimensions so we've got our eight two eight k standards there are 4k and then we have standard hd full hd we can also then come in and access the frame rates so we have the ability to go from 60 frames per second 24 and 23 frames per second we also have the ability to choose the compression on the bottom so in the sub menu when we come out we have the high frame rate so we can come in here and select the high frame rate and now you can see it's kind of locked us into that 4k 120. we can't really change much in terms of those settings just whether it's the dci or the uhd slightly different resolution widths i'll be giving some slow motion demonstrations about how to use this and how to make it work come in here when we turn this back to disable and we also have the 4k high quality mode this is going to be pretty important because the image quality in the tests that i've seen and done are better h 4k hq is better it also heats the camera up a little bit faster with this disabled it looks okay most of the time just depends on how detailed and how nitpicky you are the difference between the two is how the images put together so line skipping is that when different lines of the resolution are basically thrown out so when you throw out you know every third line is it softens the image so it doesn't look quite as sharp as the camera is reprocessing when we have a high quality mode what's happening is the image is compressed individually as a frame and that retains a lot of the resolution and detail movie cropping allows us to crop the center of the image out for example if we're using if we're adapting over an efs lens which was designed for a crop sensor and we wanted to use it to record video we would come in here and select enable when we do this we lose certain features in terms of the resolution the high frame rate things of that nature just be aware that you can crop the video but i'm going to set this disable for now sound recording this has to do with our gain for our microphone i have it on manual as i demonstrated early we're avoiding the red clipping out we can turn on the wind filter or the attenuator if we want so some of these things are the same we have our iso speed settings for video our hdr pq settings we have eight stop increments if you want to get really precise when we're changing our exposure settings i'm just starting to look through what else we have in here canon log settings if we're shooting in canon log this is going to give us the ability to post process our video with greater detail a view assist would turn on what it would look like if it was processed other the canon log it looks kind of faded a little gray it's losing some of the sharpness and saturation and the view assist allows us to see what it would look like if it was graded we have different color matrixes different characteristics in terms of the sharpness the saturation and hue i think most beginning photographers this is probably going to be too much this little grayed out feature on the bottom bt.709 is the color sampling that's used with canon log it's just letting us know come back and turn that off we have our clarity setting many of these settings apply to video the same way they would apply to stills so lens aberration correction iso noise reduction hdr movie recording if it's turned off the reason is it wants the camera to be in a full hd ipb compression mode so if we come in and there's really no way for you to know this unless you're like reading the manual in depth so i'm going to hit ok so i got that set up come back and here is our hdr recording mode the time lapse movie i'll be demonstrating this on the crash course we turn this on again very similar to the intervalometer settings that we saw the difference is this is going to combine it into a movie we can choose between 8k 4k or high def and uh again i'll be demonstrating it with a sunset it's pretty cool feature if you know you're going to be making a movie with it movie self timer see it's on time lapse and that's the cool thing is when things are grayed out if you hit the set button it'll tell you what the conflict is so it didn't like that i set up the time lapse come in here turn that off we should be good to go and there it is it's just a a little timer that allows us to record it gives us a little bit of a delay there's also a remote control that we can use to start and stop video recording so the image stabilizer mode is dealing with the digital image stabilization we've talked about that a little bit it's going to zoom in and crop your image out a little bit we're shooting if we're shooting at 8k we got a lot of room to play with and i know there are some instances where where people like to use this because they couldn't get the shot other way they're they're hand holding the camera and they're walking around they just want to you know stabilize it from the get-go it's one of those things that you know you'd have to probably test out to know what you're losing in order to gain that we can use this the shutter button function for movies with a halfway shutter metering and turning the eaf on or start and stop video recording i don't have a problem with that it's pretty cool again our metering timer similar it's when the exposure settings disappear from the screen zebra settings are very powerful so the way that zebras work is that when this is turned on i'm gonna choose zebra pattern two so when i get to a hundred percent what that basically means is that when the image goes over a hundred percent when it's more than white we're going to start seeing these these marching lines so i'm just going to do it with the iso bump bump the iso up so we get these diagonal lines all over the screen and this is an exposure setting so this is a way to see the exposure if it's no go kind of a cool feature we have our shooting information display similar to what we set up in the still shooting aspect just this just applies to video come back out and the same thing for our viewfinder coming into page eight we have our overheat control i think we're going to be hearing something from canon but this prevents the camera from basically overheating and so when it starts to get hot it's going to warn us and then it's eventually going to shut it down i think it's a good idea to leave it on for now if you're doing video recording still dealing with a lot of unknowns we don't know how canon's going to respond to it but for now i'd say we'll definitely leave that on hdmi display do you want it to display only on the hdmi recorder or do you want it to display on both the camera and the monitor and then we have our time code options for beginning videographers i would say don't worry about this for now i'll be going into some of these definitions on the crash course and telling you the differences between them in any event that is a quick overview of the deep menu system and i hope you enjoyed it let's talk about connecting our smartphone in the case of an iphone x or iphone 10 to the r5 this is going to work similarly depending on the phone that you have if you are on ios it's the canon camera connect app it looks like this also android versions are available you need to have that app installed on your smartphone for this to work we are going to come into the purple tab now there are some other things in here that are pretty cool like gps device settings there is no gps in the r5 but we could put a gps receiver on there we can also pair it with the smartphone if you want to embed gps information into your images so the connection we're going to come in select smartphone it tells us change your wi-fi to enable basically what this is saying is if you don't have the app installed here's a direct qr code so you can get it here's the truth about bluetooth i've never had a lot of success with it i almost always connect with wi-fi we're going to hit ok this is going to turn the wi-fi transmitter of the camera on and it gives us the name of the wi-fi signal with a password so with this in mind i need to come into the settings of my camera my wi-fi settings and select the camera to connect to so here's the wi-fi setting michael the mavens wi-fi network i am going to select the r5 network and it's asking for this password right here obviously these numbers your numbers are going to be different depending on the camera we're going to hit join says it's waiting to connect start the canon app software so i'm going to open the canon camera connect app here's the app i'm going to open it so my smartphone connected to the wi-fi recognizes it in the app now and it's saying hey connect this camera and now they're communicating a little bit says do you want to connect the smartphone so the idea of of this is so that people can't hijack your camera even if they knew the password there has to be you have to press ok on both of them so the connection is established we get this notification to disconnect i'm going to hit ok and then we get these items available the best feature in my opinion just one man's opinion is the remote live view shooting so we're going to activate that and this allows us to control the camera from the smartphone i am shooting in raw right now i know this because this was the setting that i had set up but you can see that we are able to toggle on and off these different settings we have another setting control wheel up here but the main thing about this is we can autofocus we can take pictures we can change our shutter speed remotely we can change our aperture remotely iso as well we can tap on the screen to change our focusing point and it's telling us the inner square box is telling us when it's focused very useful you'll notice on the bottom here if you're not seeing this you can toggle these up up and down is we're in a high burst mode let's go to a single image maybe we want to change the focusing square we're using the size of it and see we it's a little bit different than what it looked like on the camera there's face detection and tracking very nice there are drives high speed burst timer we can go to a manual focus using these little arrow keys i don't know why it's not letting us change raw let's see if we can do it from the camera without losing our settings sometimes it won't let it let us do that go to jpeg okay there it goes okay we can see the last image that we took it's telling us that it's a raw image close that out so all in all pretty cool you can see that when we went back to jpeg we get tons of images we get actually more images remaining on the smartphone than we do on the camera at 16 000 images remaining another cool thing about this is that we can't shoot in video we can start and stop video recording i'm overexposed obviously so we want to turn our iso down a little bit we can start recording we get our audio levels i've used this before where i need to be in the frame and i'm not behind the camera i'll actually turn on the smartphone app and i'll and i'll look at the phone to frame myself up very nice stop recording see what else can we do here so on the video settings we can change our white balance we have our different movie settings obviously we can't record an 8k directly to the phone this is for recording on the camera very nice we've got our attenuators things of that nature if we click on this camera setting icon we can lock the screen orientation we can rotate the view so if you're shooting in a vertical aspect if you wanted to do that we can mirror live view display we have magnification and touch auto focus we're going to rotate this continue to rotate it around very good so let's come out let's go back to stills and as you noticed when we're recording things you know at some point we may want to drop them into our smartphone so how do we transfer images so if we come into images on camera it's going to load the previews of the shots we've taken obviously we have some video here and we can do some things here on the bottom kind of hard to see we can have display different types of data in terms of this was a video file recorded for 14 seconds we can give it a rating let's find another image let's find something like this we can send it to different apps such as the printer for example we wanted to print directly from the camera got our date time delete very nice very cool you can scroll through so this is a way that we're able to transfer images from the camera to our phones so let's go let's go ahead and do that if we wanted to transfer we'll just import there it's importing the image great let's see if we would do it for that video file import yep so the smaller it was this is a full hd and it's a smaller video file so i'm not sure how big the files are that we can transmit obviously the bigger the file the longer it's going to take but overall you can see it's a pretty smooth experience we get the downloaded symbols up there jump sort and filter coming back out there are a couple other features out here just real briefly there's an auto transfer feature i personally don't want that but if you wanted the images to be auto transferring to your phone as you're shooting you would turn this on i have the reduced image size turned on automatically so these are going to be smaller files obviously if this was turned off then we would get the full resolution and we can delete the location information from the image there is no gps built-in gps to the camera we either have to get the module or have it run from the smartphone but this is pretty smart to delete the information from the image before you share it on social media because sometimes people can go in there and find out where you were when it transferred just something to keep in mind location information has to do with intentionally embedding gps coordinates into the files it is battery heavy both for your smartphone in your camera when you do this and uh so it's detecting current location and so when i take pictures now it will embed it in to the images themselves it's a very handy powerful tool if you need it and there are there have been some situations where i needed gps data you know being plugged into the images but for now and for most cases i leave it turned off and then we can come into the different camera settings we have access to reflect the date and time we can adjust the date and time pretty cool the area daylight savings things of that nature other things that we have up here we have just some minor information nothing too hardcore and then we can disconnect by pressing this little x in any event that is a quick overview of connecting our smartphone to our canon r5 for remote shooting in image transfer download to the smartphone when we're talking about lenses for the rf mount the mirrorless mount there are a few important things to keep in mind canon has a ton of great affordable lenses for the older ef mount so when you're purchasing a lens absolutely make sure that you're reading the description to make sure which canon lens it is i have a video that that goes through some of the more popular rf lenses we published it this year and i'll have to re-make another one because so many other lenses have come out since that time i am going to make the assumption that if you can afford this camera you can afford some of these nicer lenses but it is an absolute no-brainer to get the ef to rf adapter the reason why that's important is you can find them for less than a hundred dollars and it's going to allow you to adapt the older canon ef lenses onto the rf mount and for the most part the focusing is pretty good it's pretty great if you're doing sports types of photography i would probably recommend sticking with the rf lenses they just seem to be a little bit faster and a little bit more accurate something else to keep in mind is that we're dealing with a 45 megapixel sensor and canon published a list of lenses when they came out with their high megapixel 5ds and 5dsr in 2015 and they basically said make sure that you use lenses from this list and the reason is some of the older canon zooms will not have the resolution to get the sharpness to maximize the potential sharpness of the sensor so keep an eye on that list that said the rf lenses are super sharp i think you're going to probably be in good hands if you go with a native rf mount i like the 24 to 105 as a general shooter i've had a few of these now they have all been super sharp very impressive and they go up in cost and quality from there if you're a wedding photographer there are a number of great lenses you're going to want to consider including the 24 to 72.8 you're obviously going to want the 70 to 200 2.8 it's a much smaller more compact mid-range zoom there's a 100 to 500 if you need a little bit more reach canon has announced and released the 600 and the 800 f11 primes it's not a really a wide aperture but it is a light affordable way to get very close to the action if you're shooting outdoors if you're looking for a wide angle zoom look at canon's 15 to 35 2.8 now obviously these lenses are very expensive there are some more affordable general purpose shooting lenses there's the brand new 24 to 105 this aperture is not as wide but it's a good way to get started if you have nothing else if you are an event wedding or portrait photographer at some point you are going to want to invest into a speed light canon 600 exrt is the one i would recommend there's an older version there's a version one there's a version two i have a crash course on that with the ste3 transmitter that will take you through all the steps to learning it it's an expensive flash system it is the best most compatible with canons cameras there is a company called godox and if you're going to go the godox route it's the tt685c in the past i have had a tremendous amount of success using those speed lights 110 so you know if you want to save a few hundred dollars right there that's the way to go they also have their own transmitter it's called the x pro c i'll include some of the basics of using speed lights on the crash course for the r5 if you don't have a tripod you are definitely going to want to get one i would recommend investing into something a little bit more sturdy i like the carbon fiber ones by bogan manfrotto the ball head that i like it's his personal preference it's the bogen manfrotto 496 rc2 or the equivalent it allows me to lock the camera in different angles and positions i use it all the time for landscape photography if you want to maximize the capabilities of the r5 you should invest into a cf express card they are expensive i give the same advice about memory cards to all of my students is to buy the biggest fastest one that you can afford now the uhs2 cards are way affordable you can get a very large capacity memory card a very fast uhs to memory card which is going to be great for stills and up to 4k video but when we get into the the raw video files and the higher data rates that cf express card is the only way to go you will also probably want to invest into a cf express card reader obviously we can transfer without taking the memory card out of the camera but for larger files and for the speed of workflow get the card reader if you enjoyed this free tutorial on the canon r5 and you want to learn more check out my canon r5 crash course it comes with a 100 money back guarantee i will put that link in the description i thank you guys so much for watching it's been a pleasure to teach you about this great camera and i hope to see you in the facebook [Music] group [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Michael The Maven

Views: 464,513

Keywords: Canon Mirrorless Camera, Canon R5, R5, Canon R5 Heat Issue, Canon R5 Manual, Canon R5 Training, Canon R6, Canon R5 Tutorial

Id: uH_pPPKod4g

Length: 180min 48sec (10848 seconds)

Published: Wed Aug 05 2020