Pansonic Lumix GH5 Guide + Personal Configuration

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hi guys i'm ali i'm a freelance filmmaker director and content creator over the last 18 months or so I've worked with Panasonic in the UK with their panasonic lumix ts5 so I'm really really excited to bring you my complete guide for the camera I hope this helps you master the gh 5 and perhaps future Linux cameras I'll go through everything about this camera including features specs and my personal workflow I'll cover things from a beginner level all the way to advanced so there's value for everyone watching this chances are that you bought this camera to use mainly for video applications so that's what I'll be focusing on and I'll start with the camera overview going through the buttons the dials before going into exposure drive modes ISO white balance quick menu and photo Styles of course I'll also cover frame rates video resolution and the B log upgrade I will then go through audio recording and how I use manual focus before finally sharing my personal configuration and how I like to use the camera I think you've really enjoyed this so yeah let's just jump in this camera is packed with features and I think that's what makes it at least in my opinion great value for money even now in 2018 let's jump into the body and go through the buttons and the dials you've got the first dial on the left hand side which has your single shutter to multiple shutter mode and other modes like the self timer and the time-lapse mode the other side we have the PASM dial for program aperture shutter and manual exposure this dials also how you get into the creative mode so you have the creative movie mode here and your other customized modes C 1 C 2 and C 3 and between the two dials we have our hot shoe mount this is where you connect your flash and microphone and other audio accessories on the right hand side we have our shutter release button behind that directly first dial that we have with this one is by default set to change the aperture the red button here allows you to record video and any regardless of the mode you're in so even if you're in the stills mode you can head that button and it starts recording video which is great if you want to quickly shoot video without having to change anything happen to me a few times where I'm taking stills and realize actually I need to take video so I'll just hit that and it starts recording on the left hand side we have the playback button this obviously plays back your footage and video on top of that we have the function 5 button or the lbf which basically allows you to toggle for view and through the viewfinder or the LCD depending on what you prefer at the time over here we have a switch that allows you to change from autofocus signal to autofocus continuous and manual focus as well as having a button inside that which allows you to manually trigger focus if you're in a manual focus mode or do an exposure lock the dial at the back is our shutter speed dial then if we move down here we have our function 2 button which we use to access the quick menu I find this very useful and then below that we have the function 3 on function for which both can be used to anything that you want you can basically customize these to access a certain option and the menu and I find these great and then on the right hand side you have the display button which allows you to toggle on and off the shoot and information so this is useful if you've adjusted all your settings and you want to kind of just remove them from the frame so you can just focus on framing I have you know this is great to have off and then if you press it a third time actually the display button it goes into the lvf the joystick basically allows you to change your focus point or move it around and then you can even set this to a certain function if you want so you can customize it to do something else underneath that is another dial which can be spun or clicked and there's a menu button in the middle this is our LCD which is a complete flip out screen you can move it in almost any direction you want this is something that I love about the gh 5 and once you shoot with a camera that can do this it's really hard to go back to a camera that can't because you find this so useful and sermon shooting situations so for example if I'm shooting bottom up and I don't want to attract attention to myself I can do this if I'm doing a selfie I can do that you know if I'm shooting from the top I can do this so so many different positions that you can put this in on the other side we have the dual SD card slots this allows you to record video to one card and stills to the other card or have them both record at the same time so you can have a copy or you can use continuous recording where if one SD card fills up then the recording continues on the second SD card I love this feature and again it's really useful if you're shooting for a long period of time on the bottom you have your battery door next to it you have a hidden sort of door for your VG g FG 8 v adapter so this comes off and then you have that here on the left side you have your ports so you have your microphone input here then your headphone jack HDMI full HDMI output and the USB C port and then before I forget you have your white balance ISO and exposure compensation all here next to your recording button and shutter button so so that's the g85 camera body one of the reasons I love shooting mirrorless is the fact that you have a live view it shows you exactly what the cameras going to capture this is something that you don't have in your typical DSLR and the live viewfinder is simply here and we can as soon as you get your GH 5 you have the eye sensor switched on and basically what that does if they say you're viewing on your LCD and you bring it up to your eye level ill the view will automatically go from your LCD to your viewfinder I personally have the high sesor which is over here by the way I have it switched off because I find it quite annoying and and to do so you go into your menu settings and then go into page 2 or 4 and then you can see that you can change the sensitivity of the eye sensor you can go from high to low and you can also change the monitor switch from your lvf I have it on the monitor and then if I am in a situation where maybe I'm outside and it's really sunny and I can't see the LCD and I want to look through the viewfinder I just hit my live view finder button and that switches to the live view finder and then I can see through here okay guys let's go through the mode dial the mode dial essentially allows you to switch between stills photography video and fully automatic modes and if we go through them one by one we have the program mode aperture priority as for shutter then manual fully manual mode creative movie and then you have your three custom modes custom 1 2 & 3 then we have our art mode and then intelligent auto mode if you're very new to this by the way image exposures is made up of three components you have your aperture shutter speed and ISO so you need to control these in order to get the right exposure for every you know image or scene that you're capturing so program mode is fully automatic so the camera decides both aperture for you and the speed the shutter speed so this is a mode that you would get into if you probably have no idea what to do I never really use program mode and I just don't trust cameras but it's just something to be aware of aperture priority is one has the name suggests you set the aperture and the camera adjusts the shutter speed based on the scene and the environment you can obviously set your ISO to the levels that you want in these modes or you can have it on auto ISO I personally never really use auto ISO I just adjust it manually I find that a lot better than having to put it on auto ISO but we'll go through ISO and detail in a different section so then you have your shutter priority mode again where you set the shutter speed and then the camera decides the aperture for you and then fully in manual mode you choose both shutter and the aperture fully you know in control of that then you have your creative movie mode and this is where you access sort of all the features for the for the video this is the future there you want to be on money or shooting video then the customs like I said you can set these to anything you want then we have the art mode art mode is essentially sort of baked in looks or filters it's probably not a good idea to shoot JPEGs when you're shooting in photo and sort of heart mode because the looks will be baked in and you'll never be able to change them so if you are using the art mode I probably suggest shooting in RAW as well as JPEG so in case you you know he don't like that look later you have the option of changing that intelligent Auto is very interesting this basically let's say you are on holiday and you give the camera to someone who has no idea what to do with it you know you want them to take your picture your portrait the camera will actually recognize that you're taking a portrait so there is some sort of algorithm that's happening and the software that decides that you know actually this is a portrait and then if you point it out the flower or recognize that it's a flower you point as at the sunset who realizes the sunset and so on again like I say this is a good thing good mode to shoot on if your hand in the camera someone that has no idea what to do with the camera I shoot in aperture priority a lot when I'm shooting time lapses and hyper lapses especially if I know that the lighting is going to change dramatically so if I'm shooting a time lapse or hyperlapse at sunset or sunrise I will probably shoot on aperture priority because I know that the line is going to change dramatically so quickly and I want to be able to keep up with it but if I know that the lighting is consistent and it's not gonna change much then I just stick to manual and I choose everything myself so the camera doesn't change anything okay guys let's talk about white balance to access your white balance you simply press the button for white balance WB at the top and then you access all the options for your white balance now in my opinion I think it's really important to get your white balance right in camera so you don't have to do any adjustments and post and there are a couple of ways you can do that auto white balance is usually actually very good and I tend to shoot a lot of my films or videos on auto white balance but sometimes it's not really the best thing because if you go from one environment that's lit in a certain light into a different room or a different area then the white balance might actually change and you can see that you know changing and also if you're shooting travel videos if you point in the sky and then you point at something you know green or have the landscape and might actually change and you might you might see that in the shot so that's not always good now to get my white balance right I use something neutral to do that so either a gray card or a white card but usually a gray card is is ideal for yd and it doesn't absorb any sort of color cast do this I'm going to show you using this as of basic gray card which is basically on the back of the magazine but I usually take a small one with me on set and what you do is you basically go into your Kelvin mode so I'm gonna go into the mode one here the custom mode one here and then if you go to select white balance and what it is basically you point the camera at the gray card and then you press set now you could hear the camera actually taking a shot and it sounds like it's taking a picture but it's not actually taking a picture what it's done is basically corrected the white balance and now that white balance is set and you know that you've done it right and it's not going to change throughout the shoot so that's great well you can do also as you can add certain tones to your white balance by going into adjust of any really mode and then you can maybe add a teal sort of color to the shadows or any color that you want I genuinely don't really touch these because if I feel like I want to add any different tones then I just do it I just do it in post so I tend to carry one of these in my backpack wherever I go I just pull it out and just use the great card south my white balance and I'm good to go if I don't have enough time to do that then I'm usually happy with auto white balance and usually it does a very decent job okay guys so let's talk about is own X now the ISO range on the g h5 ranges from a low 100 all the way to a maximum of two five 600 now if you're in video mode it actually drops down to 12,800 ISO so generally speaking and I don't really shoot anything above 1600 I sometimes do push it to like maybe 2,500 3200 but that's it I don't really go above that because then you start introducing noise and and I know if I shoot anything above 1600 I'm gonna have to apply some sort of noise reduction if we go into higher so you can see all these different ranges I've done them in increments of a third and to do that you simply go into the menu exposure settings I believe and then you go to extend it and then you go to ISO increments and you choose thirds of a stop obviously you also have your auto ISO and I genuinely don't really use auto ISO but you can use it if you know you're gonna need that and personally I'd prefer to change it myself it can be useful if you're doing a shoot where you go from like in an outdoors from an outdoors location to an indoor location now we can set up a limit of the gh fives ISO sensitivity and to do that we go into the creative video menu and we go to page to four and then we go to ISO sensitivity video and then we can set the minimum sort of auto ISO limit setting to 200 and then the upper limit to 1600 and this is why I have it set on so this mode the camera wouldnt go above 1600 and that's basically how to set so now moving on to exposure compensation this is useful when you're in stills mode this basically means that the camera can adjust the exposure and make it darker or brighter you can see you can make it darker by five stops or brighter by five stops and again this is useful when you are doing stills photography we can start talking about the photo styles of the camera the photo stars is basically a really important when you're shooting video even though I applies to both video and stills but with stills you have the option of obviously shooting raw and you get a lot more information with the raw but with video we can't really do that not on this camera anyway of this price range standard is just standard that's just your standard color and you don't really if you don't really want to do any sort of adjustments and post then we have vivid which I never really used but this might be great if you really want some sort of vivid colors in your image and landscape Navy and then natural natural is probably the most neutral profile and I have mine slightly adjusted and by the way you can customize these in any way you want so for me I have my neutral profile which I do a lot of my client work with so I have my contrast set to minus one my sharpness set to minus two noise reduction to minus one and then my saturation to minus one and then I leave the here left as it is I've just found that profile to work best for me so you don't have to follow these but I'm just sort of letting you know and we have monochrome or monochrome which is sort of more contrasty and scenery portrayed and then we have our customers and we can do adjust these in any way we want and then we have seen like D I love shooting infinity because it gives me a bit more room and post to adjust colors and apply lots and I shoot a lot of my videos on cine like D it's flat but it's not the flattest on the profile then we have seen you like thee which is basically a bit more contrasty than sinning like d and it has so basically requires less gradient and post and I rarely really shooting assume you like V but it's there if you and then we have like 709 now like 709 gives you a nice roll off of the highlights and it doesn't require much grading but again it's not something that I really use but it's there if you need it and then we have V log L and this is the paid upgrade that that you have to buy from Panasonic so you can add it to the gh v and this is basically the profile that gives you the highest dynamic range so it gives you an additional two stops of dynamic range and so this will require a fair bit of grading because you need to bring back the highlights and the shadows and add contrast and saturation etc so we'll talk about this in a different module but it's really important and video to know exactly your saw workflow for me I usually for client work anyway I don't really have much time to do any gradient if any right so I shoot a lot on my natural profile and I shoot a lot on my cine light D because then I have my own luck that I just apply on the footage and it's ready to go so it's fairly quick but if I had more time and I had a specific look that I was after and I wanted as much information to capture on the sensor so I can grade and post I'll probably shoot the log ok guys next let's talk about the quick menu the quick menu as the name suggests is it's a quick way to get into certain functions that you've won depending on the mode that you are in so if we go into the quick menu and we press the button for a quick menu or the function - you can see that I've set up my photo stars at the top which is by default how it is anyway and then have the bottom I have my VFR my focus be kid and my recording sort of quality and then my stabilization this is basically the page that I use the most this can be really useful to sort of change your photo styles quickly or you know change your recording format okay guys next we're going to talk about the video features of this camera and this camera is packed with video features so let's start with recording formats this camera has four recorded formats you have AVC HD which best for playing back footage on a TV so if you plug a you know if you plug a HDMI cable into the camera and then the other end into the TV then this format would probably be the best for that but if you're going to do any editing I'd probably stay away from this format then we have our mp4 and MOV recording formats basically the difference between mp4 and MOV is essentially how they're how the content is presented to the to your computer so I personally do everything in a movi and I find this this is generally good for almost anything really so let's start with the lowest sort of resolution that this camera can do which is basically 1920 pixels wide by 1080 pixels long next you see the frame right next to that which at the moment is set to 24 P and that's basically in the number of frames per second that the camera is shooting so 24 frames per second is said to be basically the cinema standard and that's why 10 T shooting we can either shoot an NTSC or PAL depending on sort of what area you're in the world but NTSC standard is 29.97 also referred to as 30 P which is basically the same thing but this is the television frame rate so in the cinema the standard is 24 frames per second so when you go from 24 P 2 or 25 P to 29 or 30 P things look a little bit smoother probably some people sort of don't really like that and some people do I personally prefer shooting in 24p or 25 P and that's just my preference okay so I currently have this camera set up to assistant frequency of ntsc and if you're shooting ntsc and you won that film look then you want to shoot at 24 P for broadcast you can't really shoot at 24 P so you need something closer to the variant of 29.97 and if we divide 29.97 by 1.25 this gives us a 23 point nine seven six and we round up to twenty three point nine hey anyway that's not the point okay so one of the great things about the GH five is that it can record for two to ten bit internally and you can choose between four twenty and forty to forty two is obviously much better and the difference between sort of 8 bit and ten bit as a lot even though it doesn't sound like much I've done this before I've come here so I think that's sixty four times the colors we had before okay so 42 gives us better color and ten bit gives us lots of these colors now 42 10 bit files are bigger and require probably more power and more time to edit so if you don't need them obviously 8 bit is just fine but that's just something to keep in mind obviously as a you know filmmaker or videographer this is a business at the end of the day so we need to work out how much time we have if we have the budget to spend more time post-production or not so sometimes for a lot of my you know smaller budget shoots I just stick to a bit and most of the time tennety actually so I can get home and you know deliver that as soon as I can 100 megabits per second is basically as the name suggests is you know the number of megabits per second that the camera can record on the gh 5 and the dh5 can actually go up to if we go all the way to the top here it can go up to 400 megabits per second basically the higher the megabits per second the less compression we have and the better the quality of the footage will be we scroll up here and we go to where it says vr 4 available here you can see that we have our variable framerate and this is where we can do slow motion so if I select that option and then go into the video menu and go to variable framerate and go to on and then I can set that to up to 180 frames per second and this is great it means you can really slow down your footage or if you want you can go the other way and basically record really really fast footage now the GH 5 can record internally 4k up to 60 frames per second in 8-bit and what that means is basically you can record twice as much so of the footage and you can slow it down to 50% and post and then you get smooth look in slow motion and you also lose a bit of sharpness when you are shooting and really high frame rate so if you're going above 60 frames per second then you start losing a bit of that now in terms of 4k 60p you can't record internally in 10 bit but you can record 60 P tambour externally via the HDMI output to an external recorder like the a Thomas inferno but again you're gonna be spending like a thousand pounds on that so also you ask just something to consider then we have the cinema 4k options at the top and these are basically our true cinema for case or of resolutions and that's 4096 wide by tu-160 long so it's the same height but it's a little bit wider almost two to one and this is basically the more cinematic and and true 4k look for a lot of my shoots I actually have I actually shoot in in PAL so I shoot in 4k 50 P and for a lot of my stuff and what that means basically means I can slow down my footage any part of the footage that I've captured to 50% and still keep that keep the sound and keep really nice quality if I know that I'm going to be doing a lot of color correction or color grading and post then obviously I choose 10 bit and I either shoot in cinah D or V log again depending on how much time I have a lot of the clients that I'm working with and I have been working with over the last 3 years I've only had one client who sort of consistently asked me for 4k footage at the majority so all the rest of my clients they just happy with 1080 they're just happy with full-hd they probably don't even know the difference between 4k and 1080p obviously 4k files are gonna be bigger and that's going to take you longer to edit and it's gonna require more storage and and more storage obviously means you're gonna have to you're going to end up buying more hard drives and things like that and it can get you know sort of expensive filming everything in 4k but it can be worth it because obviously 4k gives you the more of an image to mourn the frame to crop in and zoom sort of reframe and perhaps you know do a different angle or you know do a do a zoom in zoom out and it's just gonna look a lot smoother and it's just going to make it look like you have different cameras you have a lot of cameras which means you have high production value so yeah these are the advantages 4k and like I said the camera is packed with these sort of recording qualities and video features that it just makes it you know a real pleasure shooting with okay guys so the next thing I wanted to talk about was the digital teleconverter that we have on the g h5 this is not a digital zoom this is an actual digital conversion we actually get a bit of an extra reach pretty much like a free lens on the g85 and the way this works is that the g h5 has a sensor that has nearly 5,000 pixels so instead of using the four thousand plus pixels wide it uses just the 3840 pixels wide if we are shooting Ultra HD so now we're still using a one pixel capture and delivery in one pixel output you don't lose any quality and and this is a feature that I love and it actually helped me in a lot of that situations where I needed an extra reach and to get into this mode we go into the motion picture menu and then we go to page three or four and then you can see that the tele conversion option here and then if we press that you have the on and off so at the moment this is the frame that I have and if I want to basically get that extra reach what I do is I go into the menu and go into my teleconverter mode and switch that to on and then what happens is that when you switch to HD you get even more of a more of a crop and you're still not losing quality so this is great and then to do this I'm basically just going to change the recording quality to Full HD and you can see that I've actually cropped in a lot more and this is great very very useful feature okay guys next I wanted to talk about v-log I get a lot of questions about V logs so finally I get to explain it in a video and I'm gonna try to do this in the simplest way possible the log is basically our flattest profile on the gh 5 it gives us an extra in general extra two stops of dynamic range and what that means is basically we are capturing more information and data and the shadows and the highlights one shooting in a normal profile like cinah d or natural profile what the camera is doing is basically applying a gamma curve and what that does is basically making the shadows darker and the highlights brighter and this is great because the image looks great straight out of camera and you don't need to do much grading you know it looks great straight camera and you don't really need to do much but what we are doing is basically losing all the you know details or the data and the shadows and the highlights when it's being crushed using that gamma curve so this is when V log comes in V log basically it keeps that data and it gives it to you so you can do the edit the weight expose for B log is slightly different than when we are exposing for and other profiles sunidhi natural profile and etc we have to basically expose for the highlights because generally speaking if we expose for the highlights and when we go to the Edit room we can basically crush the shadows instead of bringing them up and introducing noise so we crushed the the shadows and that gives us a cleaner image so that's why we expose for the highlights and when I basically expose for my natural profile and sanity and by the way guys this is just my way of doing it so I'm sure other people will have different ways but this is just how I do it and how I found it to be sort of the easiest and the sort of quickest and most intuitive way to expose when I'm shooting in my natural profiles and sanity I like to use the histogram and it's quite simple if I go into my creative movie mode I've got the histogram already on display and you can find that in the menu you can switch that on and I actually have it on all the time so basically one the histogram is in yellow it means that you don't have the right exposure it needs to go to white and that means you are in the right exposure obviously when you are shooting against the Sun or when you are sort of shooting but backlit you need to be conscious that the camera might not get this right all the time so you might need to use your eye for situations like that so this is fine to shoot when you're like in a normal standard profile now if we go into our V log L this is where I like to use my wave form so with the wave form basically instead of on the histogram you see the image from left to right on the wave form you see it bottom to top so the bottom is are basically darker areas and the top is our whites and or highlights where the line bends on the on the wave form basically means that the lighting is in even across the frame so if it's going up it means we are basically have more light more light on that side and if it goes down it means we have less light on the other side the easiest way again I found to be quick to remember and it doesn't it's not very confusing until you get to use to the wave form is to use the exposure compensation sort of meter at the bottom here and what that does basically tells you where the right exposure is or at least where the camera thinks the right exposure is once I've found that I like to overexpose by two stops so now it's at zero I'm gonna go one two and now overexpose by two stops so I've lifted basically the shadows and so I can have more information there okay guys next we're going to talk about the audio recording on the dh5 now the GH five has two built-in microphones tiny ones at the front in between the two dials and the sound that you get from these isn't the best quality so I don't really recommend you rely on these for your professional shoots I personally have a shotgun microphone and lav mic and other audio accessories that I tend to use for my professional shoes if we go into the all your options on the g h5 if you go to motion-picture menu and then go to page three or four you'll see that you'll have four options here we have the mic level display and this basically allows us to see the levels of the audio going in the camera and it basically ensures or shows you if you are peaking and when it goes right and then underneath that we have the mic level adjust and basically this allows us to control the preamps that are in the GA tribe and you can see that we have a range from minus 12 all the way to plus 6 but at the moment you can see that I you know however loud I get I'm not actually peaking and that's because I have the mic level limiter on and this feature is great because it basically means that the gh father is always listening to the sound around you and it's ensuring that whenever it's too high actually scales are back down so you don't peak but if we switch that off and go back into the mic level adjust and if we start from 0 DB we can actually see it that I'm peaking now so if I bring this down to the say minus 6 you can see I'm no longer peaking and it's actually usable sound so I set this to minus 6 go back to my mic level limiter and then switch that back on to ensure that I never peak now we also have the wind noise counsellor underneath that and basically this reduces the sound of the wind coming in and you have a high level standard level and off I sometimes have it on high if I know that it's going to be really windy out there and I don't have a dead cat and that's the basically a hardware piece that you put on your external microphone I actually prefer the dad cat I prefer Hardware piece than relying on the sort of built-in software wind cancellation and it's gonna give you cleaner sound overall I always carry with me my headphones to ensure that I'm listening to the audio coming in and making sure that it's sounding okay and I'm not so peaking I also prefer using the preamps on the external mics than the preamps are built in the camera I feel that this will give you the cleaner quality when doing that and if I know that I'm shooting in a very loud sort of windy environment I always have a dead cat on and let's say if I'm shooting a live show or a festival then I have the preamps that are built in the microphone so I just I can adjust this to minus 10 or plus 20 and monitor it with the headphones that's essentially how you record audio on the g85 right guys we are approaching the end of this guide a few more things I wanted to talk about first thing is autofocus I don't really use autofocus on the g85 so I'm not really gonna go through that it's just something that I don't really rely on I do know that the autofocus has improved with the new firmware but I just never use it I do use manual focus however quite a bit and I rely on focus peaking to ensure that I get this right all the time and to get into your focus peaking options you go into the custom menu and go to monitor display which is page 4 of 6 and go to pekin you'll see that we have on off and set I usually always have it on and I set this to high and the display color of blue sometimes IDs low and user color of red so again it depends on your preference I like to use blue a lot and blue usually stands out quite quite a bit and red also the next thing I wanted to talk about was stabilization the gh 5 comes with built-in body stabilization so the sensor is actually stabilized and if you combine it with a stabilized lens like the 12 to 35 f28 mark 2 then you get dual stabilization so you're having stabilization on the gh five body and the lens and this is amazing it's actually saved me so many times on my shoots only last week I did a sheet for a singer and she was having her first sort of headline show and the space was so tight and I couldn't really get a tripod in there so I had to go handheld and just by holding up the camera above the crowd I managed to get really really stabilized footage to get into the stabilizer option on the gh 5 we go into the motion picture menu and then go to page 3 or 4 you'll see the stabilizer option at the top and you'll see that you'll have a few options if I go into operation mode you have left to right when you're in stills mode and this is basically if you're if you know you you move left to right quite a bit I like to have this one on and not the up-and-down motion because I do know that I do notice that I do go left and right quite a bit I always have my a stabilization off because it does add a bit of a strange walking effect is lock video this is incredible this is the mode that replicates the tripod sort of shooting I think it's great and it does an amazing job of keeping your footage stabilized you do want to be careful though when you want is lock mode not to pound too quickly or do too much panning because it can again warp the footage and make it look a bit strange they've moving left and right is absolutely fine but if you're doing it sort of quickly it will start to look strange so just keep that in mind if you if you know you're going to do a lot of panning just have this off and it look a lot more natural than having the is lock on the is lock is just gonna warp everything and it's just gonna look really unnatural okay guys so the next thing I wanted to talk about my personal configuration and I get a lot of questions about this so I'm giving you everything in this video I essentially always have my video guideline on and this basically enables me to see the video guideline where I can put the cinema bars the black bars at the top and bottom of the frame and I like to set this to two point three nine two one ratio and I also like to have my guideline on the second option which is Beit which basically is very similar to the rule of the first kind of composition but has a center marker and it has lots of intersections that I get to use when I'm doing my time lapses and high collapses I always like to have my histogram on like I said before this helps me to ensure that I basically get my exposure right every time and I always like to have my mic level display on to ensure that I'm not peeking and I can monitor what's coming out of the camera and then finally I have my custom one two and three set to different settings I have my custom one set to senior like d4k 50p 8-bit I have my custom to set to natural profile 4k v to be a bit and finally my custom three settings are set to V log L and 4k 150 megabits per second 42 10 bit with the waveform on and if I need to switch off the waveform I can just open my function buttons and get rid of that I also have my Luntz and I can switch from my light display to no luck okay guys this brings me to the end of the guide I hope it brings you valley is taken me a few days to put together as you can see I look different at the end of the video because I'm shooting this on a different day if you do have any questions put them in the comments down below and I'll try to get back to you as soon as possible I'll see you in the next one
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Id: hZ50Esp0BOY
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Length: 41min 11sec (2471 seconds)
Published: Sun Dec 09 2018
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