In-Depth Build Of An Old School Chevy 4.3L V6 Build - Engine Power S9, E1&2

[Music] you're watching power nation the 4.3 liter v6 chevy shares a lot of its design with its big brother the 350 small block v8 today on engine power we build our v6 showing you in-depth information along the way hey everyone welcome to engine power a while back we showed you some tips and tricks that you could do yourself at home to not only make your engine go together easier but run a little spicier and the engine that we used was something we had in stock a chevrolet 4.3 liter v6 now that engine has some commonality with its v8 counterpart and if you have not seen what we have done to it so far check this out we measured the deck clearance at tdc which was 39 and a half thousands in the hole not great for building compression with the engine down to a bare block we chased all the threads to remove any debris we reinstalled the main caps torqued them to spec and checked the main housing bore size ours were well with inspect so we moved on to the cylinder bores which came in 20 thousands over we deburred the engine to remove sharp edges and chamfered the bolt holes to protect the top of the threads next we tap the front oil galleries to accept a threaded plug this is more secure than a press fit one we took some material off the rear main cap and the block to remove any sharp edges that could produce turbulence and decrease oil flow using a light touch and going slow is crucial you do not want to remove excess material the more air the cylinder heads flow the more power we can make we tested our stock chevy heads on the flow bench and got to work we cleaned up the ports smoothing out any sharp transitions and rough spots we used a cartridge roll for final finishing then it was back to the flow bench on both the intake and exhaust we got an average gain of 13.3 cfm finally we used the sun and sv15 to hone the cylinders to a precisely straight and round 403 bore now when we chose this engine it was simply to show some universal tech that can be applied to any internal combustion engine but because we got so much great feedback we're gonna go ahead and build it just for fun now there's no project attached to this so we're just gonna do a mild build something that you guys could replicate at home now there's not a lot of parts available per se but there's some great off-the-shelf items that we can still use like camshafts timing components valve springs a full line of arp products induction and ignition systems for the slightly harder to find parts we'll turn to ones that are compatible from its big v8 brother the 350 things like a harmonic balancer a forged piston and some nice roller rockers just because the assembly process is going to start though doesn't mean the tech is going to stop along the way we're going to show you all the important steps that go into building an engine we'll start by measuring main bearing vertical oil clearance after thoroughly cleaning the block we slip the bearings into place [Music] we'll prep the arp main bolt kit just like we would during final assembly ultra torque assembly lube goes under the bolt head and onto the threads [Music] just as important as having the back of the bearings and the saddles clean is the mating surfaces on the cap and the block we want to make sure that there's no oil or debris especially here in the corner that's a place that gets missed a lot and anything left over can separate the cap from the block basically giving you an inaccurate oil clearance so just make sure that everything is clean and dry and then when you bolt your caps on you'll get an accurate measurement we're going to go ahead and torque our main cap fasteners down in three equal steps following arp's instructions it's important to do this to make sure that the cap and the fasteners are loaded evenly you don't want it cocked to one side or the other so we'll torque our bolts in equal increments starting with 30 50 and then finishing with 70 pound feet after setting the micrometer to the main journal size we'll use it to zero out our dial bore gauge this ensures you get the actual clearance measurement on each journal [Music] now that frankie has all of the main bearing clearances checked and set it's time to put in a set of cam bearings now the first question you might have is why aren't cam bearings already in it this is a finished block that was ready to go together well there's a couple of different reasons one we took the cam bearings out because when we were grinding on the block and doing our oiling mods we didn't want any material to get behind a cam bearing that was installed two if anything has to be adjusted on the main bores and that can happen sometimes when your clearances don't work out right on setting your main bearing clearance so if that has to be adjusted that means the caps have to be cut and the block has to be a line hone and that again will put material down the oil hole and behind the cam bearing so we just removed them did all of our stuff and now that we know everything is correct it's time to put in a new set of bearings the bearings themselves have the same id but a different od by the way the block is machined so on the box there's a little road map that tells what position the bearing goes on on the bearing itself there is a number stamped in it and that corresponds with the number on the box so we always know where the bearing goes coming up the 4.3 gets lightweight forged pistons and weight balanced rods plus nhra top fuel world champion antron brown tells us what it's like to race over 10 000 horsepower down the strip with our engine block all prepped and ready to go it's time to talk about the rest of the components we will be using now like i said before this is not an over-the-top build this is going to make nice power with off-the-shelf parts and we will be reusing some parts as well namely the rods and crankshaft we could get custom componentry for this but it would add to the cost and the time of the build and for our power level it is not necessary the stock stuff will work just fine and that starts with a connecting rod this rod looks familiar because it looks just like its v8 counterpart it has the same center to center length at 5-700 where it does differ where we couldn't use a stock 350 v8 rod is the dimensions of the rod itself on the width and its housing bore the crankshaft has a larger journal diameter so that takes a special bore size on the connecting rod and that's okay because we went ahead and resized our stock connecting rods and added arp rod bolts for extra insurance even though we're going to be using the stock connecting rod we're still going to be able to upgrade the piston because it's one of the components that are interchangeable from a 350 these are weiss go forge pistons that we got from summit racing equipment now besides being forged which means they're going to take a good amount of abuse there's also several other benefits to them namely they are almost a hundred grams lighter than the stock piston that's going to lower our reciprocating weight which is always good the rings are 1 16 1 16 3 16 which are an upgrade over the 560 force that are on the stock pistons most importantly though the piston has a flat top design with 7 cc valve reliefs this is going to up our compression ratio but also keep it manageable in case we decide to put a power adder on it later on what was that nothing now this is all able to work because our compression height is the same at one five sixty and the pin diameter is the same at nine twenty seven these benefits are great but it does add a little bit of work which means we had to get the crankshaft rebalanced and for high precision work like that there was only one place we will take our stuff and that is shacklet automotive machine here in nashville we took and made a bob weight card weighing all of our components and took the entire assembly up and john spun it up on his new fentech balancer the crankshaft required a bunch of weight taken out of the counterweights because of how light the new piston was so they took over 80 grams out of the front and back of the crankshaft this particular crank is internally balanced on the front meaning nothing that attaches to it on the front side affects its total balance but the back is externally balanced meaning whatever is attached to it whether it be a flywheel or a flex plate needs to be on for it to be balanced correctly now that the crankshaft is done we will actually weight match our rods when we made the bobweight card we weighed the small and big end of the rod found the lightest one and then made the bobweight card now that that is done we have to weight match the rest of the rods to that light one to remove weight from both the big and small ends of the rods we'll use our belt grinder taking material off slowly and re-weighing constantly as we go remember it's easy to take material off but much harder to add it back the dial board gauge is once again zeroed out to each journal size and the rods are thoroughly cleaned the rod bolts are torqued and checked for stretch with the arp digital rod bolt stretch gauge we check every bolt and write down the torque and stretch values on each of them [Music] then we'll check the oil clearance [Music] with the goodson ring filer we'll get the ysco rings to 24 thousandths on the top and 26 thousands for the second ring according to weiss goes for our application hanging the pistons on our press-fit rods takes specialty equipment such as our goodson propane rod heater this can be done by most engine shops for a small fee today's success the main bearings get another cleaning and are coated in assembly lube [Music] using arp main bolts the caps are snug down in preparation for torquing an important step to installing a crankshaft is setting the thrust bearings now when the thrust bearing is integral to one of the main bearings you have to put it into alignment so the way we'll do that is actually tap the crank backwards and then tap it forwards and then we'll preload the crankshaft in the forward direction to align the rear thrust bearings now we go forwards because in a car a torque converter or a clutch setup is going to preload the crank forward so those are the most important to have flat and in alignment the main bolts are torqued to spec in three stages to a final value of 70 pound feet very nice up next antron brown gives us the inside scoop on his top fuel dragster and shares his wisdom with the next generation of automotive technicians around the people and the things that i truly want to do three-time nhra top fuel world champion antron brown is a busy man in addition to powering his more than 10 000 horsepower dragster down the strip he serves as an inspiration to anyone who loves drag racing high performance vehicles and simply working on their projects at home antron visited nashville to speak with the students at lincoln tech about their opportunities in the motorsports field while he was in town he stopped by our shop and gave us a behind the scenes look at his top fuel dragster i always like to show this part of it right here especially what people never get to see if i open these butterflies up this much like that that's the burnout that's unbelievable it opens up 3 16 of an inch does a out all these bays that you see here they're all evenly distributed and what you don't people never realize is is that we have cross members in the middle of them that actually stop the car from snaking like this because back when i first started racing they used to have a diagonal that went shoop shoot shoot like that in the chassis well the cars when he hit bumps they used to snake like this the front end then some people didn't have them in at all and say they want it looser so it can have more attraction so they think the car was flexing we'll never let the car flex more it just made the car do this more and we found out that that was bad and then over the years our teams would have one of the first ones to ever have it that we actually put an x member in each bay and actually made the car stay stabilized whereas more straight and i said it gave you that nice stiff sports car ride right it's more steerable exactly right not the not the loose floaty ride i don't imagine what that would be i feel like over 300 miles an hour it's probably frightening it's not a ride you want to do trust me you get past half track you hit those transitions from the concrete to asphalt on the tracks you used to go like this and the cards just do this the whole way man let me tell you something like this what should i do now i'm like just hold on this is the way it's supposed to be you just snake it along and now it's more like straight and rigid up tracking straight and right nice nice you've been associated with matco since 2008 and probably three or four years before that with the bikes tell me the importance of matco as a partner to you you know when you get part of a company that makes you feel at home and your family and thinking about is you're not selling a gimmick product you get what i mean you're out there making people's lives better by giving the right tools for the right job and we all know in the mechanic world because we work on this race car we tear these engines down and put them back together and have this car ready to run in 25 minutes a complete engine overhaul and when we can show the mechanic at home that we can do that they're like we want those tools for the job you are very proactive on working with people and likes riding on their trucks and who wouldn't want to have antron brown i want a b on my truck if i if i'm driving around yeah if i had a truck i'd be like sometimes oh yeah come on here's my here's my buddy antron the involvement with that on that level that's that's really neat because that shows your commitment to it and you believe it because you actually you have these tools at home too so what's your favorite thing to do at home what's your favorite tools to use at the house you know my favorite tools i have fallen in love you know i used to be a air guy air impact gun guy air ratchet guy but i have fell in love with the electric infinii line oh yeah okay those guns are amazing well i'm amazing like my favorite one i use i use a small one i use a little the little quarter inch impact because you gotta remember i work on my kids junior directors all the time yeah people will be like hey b mill you know i gotta make a chuckle man we got five minutes of your lane say no problem take the clutch off make a change put it back on and they're just so accessible and those little guns got so much power even all the way up to the big impact i changed my trailer tires when i had to flat on my trailer took out my big 20-volt impact gun knocked it right off and put it back on when it got my torque wrench and that only had to do like a quarter turn torque to target back one like a click so it tells you how powerful the electric tools are trust me i use them all and you can see the wear and tear on them and they haven't failed yet and the coolest part is the batteries charge up so quick and efficiently macko also has another side where they back up their distributors and i think you have seen that you know firsthand as you you know you have a lot of good relationships with them and you get to travel with them a lot well for sure well one thing about it is is that macko always backs them up by having what they need you get what i mean so it's always people don't realize it's not just a distributor showing up at the shop okay that distributor has a district sales manager a regional sales manager but besides that he has other families of macro distributors that's around that area but they're not in competition with each other but they lean on one another it just sets everybody else up so they can lean on one another so they can be the best they can be is when they say macko's got your back they got your back matco understands that the students of today will become the automotive technicians of tomorrow there's a fully stocked matco store on the lincoln tech campus offering deep discounts on the tools and equipment students need to succeed as an automotive tech visits from industry leaders such as antron brown inspire the next generation of motorsports professionals appreciate you man all right it's just putting myself around the people and the things that i truly want to do and when you do that the opportunity will come but when it comes you got to be ready up next the v6 gets a bigger camshaft for some extra ponies on the dyno [Music] the next step in our 4.3 liter v6 chevy build is installing the balance shaft this helps counteract secondary imbalance in the rotating assembly [Music] the front bearing is press fit so it needs to be tapped into place its retaining plate is held down by arp bolts which are torqued to 25 pound feet the drive gear is torqued to 45 pound-feet [Music] before installing the camshaft and gears we'll screw pipe plugs into our threaded oil galleries [Music] keeping with our mild street build we did not go overboard on the camshaft like we normally would at 50 000 lift this comp off the shelf grind hydraulic roller has 215 degrees of duration on the intake and 220 degrees of duration on the exhaust it has a 114 degree lobe separation angle and with our 1.6 ratio roller rockers it will have 534 thousands left on the intake and 547 thousands lift on the exhaust [Music] like the balance shaft the cam shaft also receives a balance shaft gear those gears are lined up using the timing marks [Music] finally the new timing set goes on in preparation for cam degreeing we have to install the number one rod and piston assembly it's easier to degree a cam with just the number one piston installed because it takes less effort to rotate the crankshaft than if all six piston assemblies are in this also allows you to be more accurate during the degreeing process [Music] the cams intake center line comes in at 106 degrees which is 8 degrees advanced we'll leave it there for our street engine [Music] now the rest of the piston assemblies are lubed and installed we'll use total seal assembly lube on the rings making sure to work it into the lands by rotating the rings [Music] if you want to make the job easier you can get one of these piston installation hammers from summit racing equipment it's a non-marring dead blow with an extended end that reaches down into the bores [Music] it's critical when installing the piston assemblies to pay attention and not force the pistons into the bores the rings will have some resistance as you tap them in but should never stop dead if that happens it typically means the ring has popped outside of the ring compressing tool and won't go into the bore it's also nice to have an extra set of hands to guide the rod onto the crank journal with the rod bolts loose we'll zero out the rod bolt stretch gauge and after torquing we'll verify rod bolt stretch is correct [Music] what are you thinking not bad right around 18. it's pretty good for a stock ring pack yeah we have made outstanding progress on our 4.3 liter v6 building with a short block together it's looking pretty good but we have smooth ran out of time but there's still plenty to do yeah this is a great stopping point but next time we'll be putting on our ported cylinder heads the rest of our valve train our induction which is pretty cool and all our ancillary parts like the timing cover and oil pan but if you liked any of the tech you saw today or you want to learn some more you can go to powernationtv.com after making some careful calculations and bolting down some hand ported cylinder heads our 4.3 liter v6 hits the dyno yes oh yeah hey everyone welcome to engine power today we are going to be continuing on a very fun project that we are doing quite frankly because we have gotten a lot of requests from you viewers to work on one so we've dragged one out of the warehouse and started a build this particular engine is relatively easy to work on because it shares some common architecture and parts with something us gear heads should be very familiar with the gen 1 small block chevy v8 this is its little brother a 4.3 liter v6 this has powered a bunch of vehicles over the years but it is still very common in the hot rod community to work on ours has had a ton of work done already but it still requires more work to get it running if you are not familiar with this project and want to see how the engine has gotten to this stage have a look at this we reused the stock crankshaft and rods but upgraded the pistons to a lightweight forge set from weisko they also have a flat top design with seven cc valve reliefs to help improve compression to accommodate the new pistons the crankshaft was balanced and the rods were weight matched we wanted to upgrade the cam shaft but we weren't going to get crazy on the specs so we specced out a comp hydraulic roller we bolted up the timing set and then installed the number one piston to degree the cam the cams intake center line came in at 106 degrees which is eight degrees advanced finally the rest of the rotating assembly was installed now that you're all caught up we can go ahead and finish up our three-quarter 350. this means getting the oiling system installed adding the timing cover and oil pan and most importantly our hand ported cylinder heads and induction package some of these parts are a little bit harder to get depending on your year and if you didn't start with them in the first place since we started with a remanufactured long block we had some great help sourcing parts and i think we have everything we need to get it running normally during the assembly process we kind of push through and try and get the engine on the dyno and see what it'll do that's because it's everybody's favorite part but on this one we're going to take it a little bit slower take our time and show you some important tech along the way we'll go ahead and add a little bit of assembly lube to our front cover seal since it's rubber if you have a teflon seal you don't want to add any oil or lubrication to it because teflon has its own lubricity and adding any more could potentially make it leak so we'll put a little bit right on the seal face and then we can get it installed in preparation for initial startup it's always a good idea to lubricate the timing assembly with engine oil the rear main seal is teflon so it does not get lubricated a thin layer of silicone is laid on both sides of the gasket [Music] the next thing we're going to install is the oil pump and oil pan you can put the pump on with either a bolt or a stud we're choosing to use an arp stud the important thing with that is it has to be the correct length the through hole that goes into the cap goes all the way down to the main bearing if you put something in that's too long you can actually apply pressure to the bearing itself when it's tightened and that is definitely a bad thing so we've already measured that up and we have the right stud so we're gonna put a little thread locker on it install it in the block another really important factor to putting on the oil pan and the pickup is measuring the clearance between the pickup and the bottom of the pan itself now there's a couple different ways to do this but the best way is to physically measure it so we've already taken a straight edge and put it across our pan and measured to the bottom and it's about seven and an eighth a huge factor in that is the thickness of the gasket so we'll add another eighth inch for that and that brings it to about seven and a quarter so on our pickup we're looking for about seven inches or just under and that will give us the proper clearance the way we'll do that is install the pump set the straightedge across it measure both sides to the oil pan rails and average them then once we have everything set an important step on these pumps because the pickup is only pressed in and not held in with a bolt is to actually tack weld it into place they are a press fit but under normal operation like vibration and high engine loads they can kind of vibrate loose and start moving around and we definitely don't want that so we'll just tack it into place for extra insurance first we'll mock the pump up on the engine lay a straight edge onto the pickup and take careful measurements down to the oil pan rail on either side with everything looking good it's time to tack the pickup into place this is just a small tack and not a full weld a minimal amount of heat is used to tack it too much heat can weaken the relief spring and potentially cause warpage the pump is left fully assembled so it has more area to dissipate heat [Music] the pump is pre-looped with some oil to protect the gears and the heavy duty oil pump drive shaft slides into position [Music] the nut is torqued to 55 pound-feet [Music] we'll apply some rtv to the parting lines and mating surfaces and the one-piece oil pan gasket drops on a little more rtv on the corners and the oil pan is bolted down with some arp bolts and a black oxide finish up next the more you know about any engine the better you can make it run we'll show you how to calculate compression ratio the 4.3 liter v6 chevy build continues with the harmonic balancer please use an installation tool not a hammer and a piece of wood it's worth doing it the right way so you don't accidentally damage the balancer [Music] the degree wheel a piston stop and a magnetic base pointer are all used to check true tdc the engine is turned each way and the piston is run up to the stop the degree wheel reading should be the same when the piston touches the stop in our case it is 18 degrees before and after top dead center knowing this when we set the degree wheel to zero we know we're at true tdc we'll scribe a new mark on the timing cover to indicate where true tdc actually is in the spirit of slowing down and showing you more tech we're going to do something for you that we haven't done in a while we are going to measure some volumes on the engine to calculate an accurate static compression ratio and that involves the top of the piston and the cylinder heads combustion chamber normally you can get data on the top of your piston from the piston manufacturer whether it's a dish or a dome to what cc it is and you can also research and find out what your combustion chamber volume is on your cylinder head somewhere on the internet but because those are both unknowns to us we are going to calculate those volumes ourselves the way we're going to do the top of the piston is pretty simple and just takes a little bit of math what we're going to do is roll the piston down into the bore apply some assembly grease around the edges and then roll it back up to a measured value then we can set our plexiglas plate on and physically pour it for a volume [Music] a minimal amount of grease is used to stop the fluid from leaking into the crankcase which would cause an inaccurate measurement now we'll run our piston up to a precise 50 thousandths below the deck surface [Music] excess grease in the cylinder is removed because it will take up some volume [Music] a critical operation is to make sure the barrette has a precise amount of isopropyl alcohol we'll purge the air from the fill side of the barrette to get a more accurate reading then it is refilled to zero [Music] sometimes it's easier to have an extra pair of hands to hold the barrette in place we carefully fill the cylinder to the top paying attention not to spill anything outside the plate [Music] now we'll get the reading from the beret so since we put our piston 50 000 in the hole we've already gone ahead and calculated how much volume that space should take up so we've gone ahead and calculated the volume of the cylinder and then multiplied it by 16.39 to convert it in to cubic centimeters and we had a measured volume measured total volume of 19.4 so we can go ahead and subtract our 10.45 from that and we'll get 8.95 cc's which is our actual piston top volume and remember this is a measured volume so it takes into account around the top ring land as well we're going to measure the combustion chamber volume the same way we did the piston although now there's no math involved all we have to have are the valves in obviously the spark plug get it up on a stand put the plate on and give it a pour we've already reset our graduated cylinder back to 100 cc so it's strictly a physical measurement after applying a thin layer of grease to the valve seat we'll install the valves some checking springs and the spark plug we'll tilt the head up slightly to keep air bubbles from forming in the chamber during the fill using the same process as before will determine the volume of the chamber it measures 61.4 cc [Music] now that we have our values we can go ahead and calculate our compression ratio to do this we need to know five different volumes all in cubic centimeters the first is the swept volume or displacement of one cylinder which is 727.54 cc's volume 2 is the top of the piston which we measured at 8.95 ccs volume 3 is the deck clearance or volume of space between the deck surface and the top of the piston which we calculated to be 4.59 cc's volume 4 is our head gasket which is 8.49 cc and finally volume 5 is our combustion chamber which pat measured at 61.4 cc for our calculation we'll add up all 5 values to get a total volume of 810.97 cc's and then divide it by the total volume minus the swept volume this gives us an accurate compression ratio of 9.72 to 1. measuring and calculating the compression ratio is just like degreeing the cam for us even though we don't show it to you every time we do it every time with our old setup in this engine with the dish piston and how far the piston was down in the hole we had a calculated compression ratio of eight point six five to one with our new piston at nine point seven two to one that will definitely help us in the horsepower department up next the v6 gets heavy duty springs roller rockers and a carbureted intake then it's off to the dyno cell our 4.3 liter is going together rather well but we still have a few things to do next we're going to stick the valve train and induction on it to get it ready for the dyno and that will start by getting our lifter assemblies in from the factory this is a hydraulic roller setup so it came with all new parts and we are going to reuse them for our application because they're going to work great it starts with a hydraulic roller lifter and a tray now this looks familiar this is the same type of setup that is used to retain the lifters in an ls there is no tie bar on the lifters it has been aligned and retained by a tray after that we're going to get our cylinder heads installed now if you remember previously we have done some work to these heads and shown how you can do some porting at home and improve flow but not get yourself into any trouble by removing too much material and causing a bad situation to support our new cam we've also added a new valve spring assembly it is from comp and it is a spring retainer and keeper assembly we had to set up individual spring heights to get our installed height correct for the seat and open pressures we wanted and we've done that with a height mic our new installed height on our spring is one inch 740 thousands and that will give us 126 pounds of seat pressure and 360 pounds of open pressure that is great for what we're going to be doing and we'll even support more if we give it some more juice the valve stems are coated with engine assembly grease and slid into the guides [Music] the new valve stem seals are installed followed by the valve spring shims the springs and retainers new valve locks will keep them in place the lifters are oiled slid into place and the trays are torqued to 25 pound feet we are using arp head studs and since the fasteners go into the water jacket thread sealant is required on all of them comedic mls head gaskets with a 4060 bore and 40 000 compressed thickness will seal up the heads the head studs are run down by hand then lubed and torqued to 80 pound feet [Music] now that our cylinder heads are clamped down on our engine we can move on and install the rest of our valve train that's going to mean new rocker studs new rockers and push rods the stock rockers are a stamped steel design and the stock rocker studs are non-adjustable and that works in the stock application but it's just not going to cut it for what we're doing so we're going to upgrade them we're going with a set of arp 8740 rocker studs that are fully adjustable and that will allow us to run some full roller rockers that we got from summit racing they're scorpion 1.6 ratio roller rockers and they have a self-aligning tip that will allow us to not run guide plates because they're a little bit tricky to make fit on these cylinder heads we went with a 1.6 ratio so we could get a little more lift at the valve we also went ahead and measured for a new push rod length since we've been changing these components and we have some 7-inch 5 16 80 wall push rods from comp we're going to start by applying some sealer to the threads of the rocker studs since all the rocker stud holes are through holes so they go into either the coolant passages or the intake ports then we'll get them torqued down and get all of our other components put on following arp's instructions they are torqued to 50 pound-feet [Music] extreme pressure lube is applied to the push rod ends and they are dropped in the same lube is applied to the valve tips the other end of the push rods and the rocker stud threads [Music] the hydraulic rollers are set to zero lash plus one half turn of preload in the firing order of the engine one six five four three two we're not known for painting engines in conventional colors so this time we're using chrysler green [Music] the valve covers receive a coat of wrinkle black and some stripes also in chrysler green as always we glue the gaskets down with weatherstrip adhesive the mating surfaces of the block and the heads receive silicone as well as the china walls before all of the fasteners are tightened we make sure the intake ports are lined up properly on the edelbrock performer intake manifold finally our fancied up valve covers are tightened down with arp fasteners up next you don't need eight cylinders to have a lot of fun all right what uh what carburetor is on that right now uh i put that qft 450 on it uh if you do the math around 5500 this thing needs like 423 cfm so i want the 450. okay i'll buy that as far as pulls i am going to do something that i normally don't do we're gonna start this at like 1500. that's pretty low and uh let's run it up to uh 4 500. right to it look at that yeah that's not bad wide open it's like 1500 going up the hill oh shoes look good oil pressure is great look at that wow 289.3 pound-feet of torque yeah 244.9 for horsepower say after 2400 over 280 the entire time well the only thing we have to do now uh we're going to change anything let's just pull it high yeah see where it peaks [Music] [Applause] yeah it was holding pretty good though oh yes oh yeah look at that 53 peaks at 50 100 4100 that's pretty close what we were guessing yeah within one pounding uh 288.1 heck yeah wow the first change we're gonna make is the spacer we're replacing the one inch piece with a two inch design this may not make a big difference on this lower horsepower v6 but there's only one way to find out [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] 254 288 uh so it looks pretty close it's almost number for number they're literally identical up top past 4 400 yeah what do we have for carburetors um we have a bunch of different options but there is we have this really nice 750 that's kind of like old reliable i think that'd be a good ticket we have that old school uh annular booster one so uh let's give that one a try stick it on there see what it does [Music] oh thanks oh yeah okay wow 259 i'll call that 260. yeah and 289.99 for for torque so that's 290. that's a nice little jump it just kind of smoothed out and picked up above 4500 ish so yeah that's pretty nice since the 750 made a good improvement we decided to go big with our 950 cfm qft black diamond [Applause] dang oh yeah 296 pound feet of torque and 262 horsepower yep what did that make over the 450. there's a little bit where they kind of match but then they separate back out so that's unloading or it makes more power at 2100 yep there you go that's pretty cool what it is at 266 inches we almost made one horse per cube but we made really decent torque for something that originated at 150 160 horse yeah we we are we are spectacular just because of it's a it's a six cylinder and it's maybe a warmed over street engine it doesn't mean that you don't spend the same amount of time on it i don't care if it's a forklift engine or an hra pro stocker you put the same amount of work into making everything that you can put your hands on making it as good as you can with the resources you have and the parts that you have exactly all right well great success another good day to find out more about anything that you've seen today visit powernationtv.com

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Keywords: Car, PowerNation, howto, how-to, diy, automotive, cars, trucks, automobile, do it yourself, automobiles, auto, powerblock, 4.3L Chevy V6, engine power, horsepower, engine build, chevy engine, engine dyno, v6, chevy v6, bottom end build

Id: Kj_8_srFBJw

Length: 42min 56sec (2576 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 29 2022