Orca Slicer vs Bambu Studio: Which is Best for Your 3D Printing? | New Calibration Explained

all right everybody welcome back to the channel and welcome to today's video in today's video we're gonna go over slicers again I recently updated Orca slicer and I decided to go ahead and update a bamboo Studio at the same time and I noticed that bamboo studio now has a calibration Tab and it doesn't look exactly like it does for Orca slicer so I thought it would be a good uh video to go over the similarities in normal print operations as well as the differences in calibrations so that we can fine tune our filament and get that perfect print and as you know that one word reason for using Orca slicer was calibration so now that bamboo Studio offers it it seems like we do need to look at both of them to help us make a decision so in today's video we'll go over both bamboo Studio as well as Orca slicer and at the end of the video hopefully I'll be able to decide and you'll be able to decide which of these slicing software will be right for you and your printing journey in the future so if all that sounds good then sit back and relax and I'll get everything ready [Music] all right so let's take a look at the slicer side by side here for a moment and on the left here we have Orca slicer and on the right here we have bamboo Studio and you'll see that mostly everything is the same we have a user manual here whereas here we don't you'll see most of the buttons and everything are very similar calibrations in a different place we'll see that that's actually a new button in bamboo Studio but everything is fairly straightforward and as for me I really don't mess with a lot of the settings here under quality strength speed or any of that now I know some of you do and that if that's what your 3D printing Journey entails then definitely mess with this stuff that's not what my 3D printing Journey entails so I don't really mess with all of this stuff I will say for the most part it seems like Orca slicer has more the things that you can mess with right there's a couple of different options and some of these that you don't have in bamboo Studio right um so very slight differences but that could be the Difference Maker for you um it's not for me that's not really where I mess with stuff where I really mess with stuff is in the filament settings from doing the calibration and if we remember the reason why we want to do calibration is I do a lot of multi-color prints and as you'll see here I have eson and bamboo in the same AMS and if I did a multi-color print with those two and just relied on Flow calibration it's only doing flow calibration on one of those filaments so if those two brands of filaments are fairly different than you could run into some problems with printing so the whole reason that I use Orca slicer is I can calibrate all of the different filaments and that way when I do multi-colored prints as you can see here I can just call out the brand or the filament that I'm using and I can print with that and get better prints now if I really went in here and did all of this stuff then I could really fine tune that in there but you guys have seen several videos of me doing the Orca slicer calibration and that's not really going to be the point of today's video because we've seen that before and I kind of alluded to what the point of today's video would be is um bamboo studio now has calibration in there um so the whole reason that I went over to Orca slicers one word right calibration now that they have calibration I think it's fair for us to look at them again so let's take a look at bamboo Studios calibration all right so the first thing that I want to do is I want to resync my filaments here and I will tell you what I have in here we actually have four brands of filaments in the first AMS here we have esun pla plus bamboo pla basic Sun blue PLA and polyterra Pla so we have all four of those and the reason that's as important is let's go into calibration and read a little bit about this just remember in the first AMS that we have four different brands of filament in there so flow Dynamics calibration when do you need to do flow Dynamics calibration we have now added the auto calibration for different filaments which is fully automated and the result will be saved into the printer for future use you only need to do the calibration in the following limited cases new filament brand or model changing of the nozzle or the nozzles worn out if you've watched my channel before and especially like the ludicrous mode video and I've made comments to this and several other of the filament calibration videos but max volumetric speed is really how you can fine tune how fast your filament uh prints because that is really the thing that kind of guides all of the other settings in there and why I don't really mess with any of the other settings is because Max volumetric Speed kind of changes all of them in a proportional way or print temperature is changed so if you change either one of those volumetric speed or print temperature then it's good to run this flow Dynamics calibration again okay we won't read the rest of this and this shows the sample before and after so let's go ahead and there is a Wiki here you can click on that Wiki and it gives you the instructions on how to do all of this and there is a auto and a manual and we'll go over let's do the auto calibration first and then we'll do a manual calibration and I'll tell you where that's going to be useful and where this is going to be useful so let's go ahead and do the auto calibration and um first step is to set up what nozzle that we have so you can even tune the different nozzles that you have which is pretty cool with that which plate that you're using and notice that it does not have the Pei plate in here because the auto is using the lidar so it just has the engineering plate high plate and cool plate and then it has the different filaments here okay and we're going to go ahead and check all four because we can do the flow calibration or the flow Dynamics calibration on all four of them which is really really cool so let's go ahead and hit calibrate here and as you can see it's going to take us about 15 minutes so I'll see you in 15 minutes all right now that it's done and before we take a look at it let's go ahead and hit the next button here and we'll see that it put values in each of these in here and if you remember we had esun bamboo Sun loo and polyterra in here so now what we'll want to do is make sure that we uh name these and then they'll be available for us in the printer and I'll show you that here in a minute so in the first slot here we had e Sun pla plus and that was with the cool plate bamboo basic cool plate this was Sun loo pla cool plate polyterra pla cool wait um and then some of these I have named it white and different things like that um I've tried this a couple of different times but I think you can just do it by the manufacturer if you want to do it by the color you can as well but now it's going to save these values into the printer so let's take a look at what it printed how that came out and then what it looks like in the printer all right so as you can see here here are the four calibrations and it just looks like the normal flow calibration that it does at the bottom down here anyway or you know the new style one that it does there but what's really cool is it did four of them at a time and then it scanned and it did all of that and saved all of the results and then all of the results are saved into the printer which we'll take a look at here in a minute but I thought it was really cool that we could do four of them at the same time so this is the e-sun this is bamboo this is Sun loo this is polyterra all right so where you're going to find those filament settings that we just put in here is whenever you click on the edit button there and you'll notice the dynamic pressure control is the esun pla plus white that we set it to before okay and if we confirm that I think go over to this pink one which was the sun loo pla pink so now whenever you load a filomat you can go in here select generic pla select the color then you can select the dynamic pressure control for that as well so remember to do that whenever you're loading filament after you've calibrated it like this all right so here we are back into the calibration and bamboo studio and we did the auto calibration now let's talk about manual calibration so Auto calibration you know the flow calibration that it does does work pretty good the issue with it is whenever you're doing a multi-color multi-brand print there could be some issues with that so doing the auto calibration is really really good um I think that'll work for the cool plate and for you know I'll do it for abs and ASA and the carbon fiber filaments and all of that on the different plates and everything but what do you do about the Pei plate and that's where the manual calibration comes into play so in here we can go to the manual flow Dynamics calibration set the 0.4 millimeter nozzle and as we can see now the textured Pei plate appears where it wasn't in the other one so if you remember when we go to auto calibration since it's using the lidar it does not list the Pei plate here so if you want to use the Pei plate then you need to go through the manual calibration so let's see what that looks like we'll select the plate and in our first slot we have the um esun which we've done a whole lot what we haven't done is the sun loose let's um calibrate the sun loo and it looks like we can only do one at a time because it is going to do the line I think if you guys remember or if you've seen my other video on manual calibration it's going to do the lines across and we're probably going to have to select which one is um the best from there so let's go ahead and hit calibrate and yep sure enough so it's going to put all those lines across there and that is how we had success with printing on um the Pei plate before and this helped set the pressure Advance if you remember from the Orca slicer this is the pressure Advanced manual test or one of the tests that you can do for the pressure Advance um so it looks like it's going to do the same thing here so we'll go ahead and let it do its thing and I'll see you in seven minutes all right so I did try running this a couple of times and we as we've seen many many times with the PE I played the really really tiny things don't like to stick on here you can see that it balled up towards the end right there but I can still see all of the lines here and which line is the best and that's what we're doing in this test is determining which line is the best um so I'll take a closer look at these and I'll determine which one of these is going to be one of these right here is the line that looks the best and then I'll figure out how many lines up that is and put the value the K value in the correct spot for this filament but do be aware I tried this two different times with this filament once with the bamboo filament and I changed the nozzle and I got the exact same result every single time so if you do this test on the Pei plate do expect that the numbers and stuff right here might fall off like they did for me all right so let's go in here and set our K value for that and it looked like to me around that sixth line or 0.030 or 0.025 either one of these I think would work we'll go with 0.03 and we'll call this sun loo pla p e i clicked all right and then we'll go ahead and hit finish everything's been saved to the printer and if you ever need to manage the result you can look at all of the different ones that you have done on here so as you can see I've done quite a few of these a couple of them twice I'm just checking everything out but um you can always go in and delete the ones that you don't need or that you don't want or that are multiples or whatever okay so now let's get into the next test on there which is going to be the flow rate and we'll start out with the automatic calibration again and then we'll go into the manual calibration and we'll use the auto calibration for the cool plate so let's go through what this is doing when to use flow calibration our flow rate calibration after using flow Dynamics calibration there might still be some Extrusion issues such as over Extrusion which is excess material on your print object forming blobs or zits or layers or thicker than expected and not uniform under Extrusion poor surface quality or weak structural integrity okay and there's more about that in there and more about it in the wiki but let's go ahead and do the auto calibration and it looks like we can only do one filament at a time with this so 0.04 nozzle cool plate and we'll start with the E Sun all right and let's hit calibrate all right so this one looks like it's going to take us about 20 minutes so I'll see you in about 20 minutes all right so it did not take 20 minutes it barely took any time at all so let's go ahead and hit the next button and we'll go ahead and let it put its flow rate in there and this was e-sun pla Plus White a flow rate calibration result has been saved to preset okay so let's see if it shows up here and we do see that the flow ratio shows up in the filament uh place right here and this will show up as one of your presets once you do the flow rate all right so now that we're done with the cool plate calibration what's cool about the flow rate calibration is you can actually do the textured Pei plate so let's go ahead and try the esun filament on the Pei plate and see if it can do the auto flow rate calibration the manual calibration is the little tab things that we've seen before let's take a look at the wiki all right so in manual mode this is the five step little tab test and then the finer tune one is where it goes in between the one at a time right here that's the second pass or the first pass second pass in flow rate in Orca slicer so this is identical to that so we won't go through this because we've gone through that a couple of times in Orca slicer as you remember you do this first test this is in steps of five with the Extrusion right being over and under extruded from zero from where it's set right now and you choose whichever one looks the best right and if two of them look the best choose the higher number because the second test is steps of one and that's how you fine tune it from there so we've done that before in Orca slicer that's the same thing in here but what's cool about this one is on the flow Dynamics we had to do manuals in order to do the textured plate but with flow rate it looks like we were able to do the textured PE I play in the auto so let's go ahead and give that a try so we'll go to auto textured plate right there and we'll hit calibrate and we'll let it do its thing all right so now that it's done with the Pei plate you saw what the little test looks like it takes no time at all to do this so it's really really easy to do so we'll hit next and we'll see that the flow rate is slightly different it was 949 I believe on the cool plate but on the texture plate it's nine five two so we'll go ahead and name this as well which is e Sun pla Plus in white Pei wait and that's been saved to a preset and we'll see that when I choose the Pei plate it changes it to 952. and when I change it back to the cool plate one it goes back to 949 and I guess I should maybe rename this one and to rename it you just hit the save button there and then we just want to specify the plate that you're using so be sure that you specify the plate whenever you're saving these um so that it's easier to reference you can see like like I did there so now I have my eson cool plate Pei plate right and that wraps it up for the calibration so now I'll go ahead and go back to the studio and wrap everything up all right so we got both of the cubes printed out this is the one after we calibrated everything and this is the one that I printed beforehand Focus there we go and as you can see like I said no major errors in it and as you could see here no major errors in this one as well but the whole point of us calibrating is for those multi-color multi-brand prints right because the flow calibration that it does in the beginning only calibrates one of the filaments if you have multiple brands of filaments to get really cool prints with the different colors then you could run into some issues with that so in the thumbnail you see that I'm I said it's a clear choice between Orca slicer and bamboo and who wins and it is but it depends on where you want to take your 3D printing Journey um so each of them is a Clear Choice depending on what it is that you want to do with your 3D print okay so for Orca slicer if you need every dial and button and thing that you can tweak and every single thing that you can do Orca slicer is a clear choice for you okay if you want to still do calibration so that you can avoid the situation that I mentioned previously but you don't want to Tinker a whole lot and you want to make it easy then bamboo Studios calibration really does that so it doesn't do all of the temperature and all of the uh all you know there's a ton of different tests that are in the Orca slicer so bamboo Studio doesn't have all of those but what it does have are the ones that are important and probably have the most effect on your prints now for temperature and Max volumetric Speed you can still um calibrate those in Orca slicer and put those in to Bamboo Studio the only thing that you can't transfer over is the pressure advance so if you do need to calibrate temperature and you do need do want to calibrate the max volumetric speed then you can do that and still put it in studio if you do want to use that I think the big benefit is you can do the dynamic flow calibration and do four filaments at a time as long as you're using the cool plate but this is good for all of the different carbon fiber filaments you can do four of those at a time on the high temp plate or I can do the two abs and one ASA filaments that I have and at one shot and save those into the printer so that every time that I load it in there I have those options ready to go for me so I think that's really really neat and then once you do the flow rate calibration then that's saved into your filament settings and you can use that now I do think that is kind of weird to have one of the calibrations go into the printer and one of the calibrations stick with the filaments in the slicer I would expect both of those to stick into the filament tuning in the slicer much like Orca slicer is um but I do see some reasons why bamboo might do that so let's wrap it up here so if you want to Tinker with everything if you're making a whole bunch of products and you're going to run 10 rolls of filament through there it might be good to calibrate that filament through Orca slicer and go through every single setting if you kind of want to make it easy and you're a hobbyist like me then it seems like the calibrations in bamboo Studio are going to be enough to make sure that you have those high quality prints during multi-color prints so for me and my print Journey I'm going to move forward with bamboo studio and repeat and replace Orca slicer which may surprise some of you guys but I want to stay on top of the software that is best for me in my print journey and for right now bamboo Studio seems to be the one that that does that so I'm going to end the video here and I'm going to continue to calibrate the 100 rolls of filament that I have and spend the rest of my Saturday afternoon calibrating filament and getting all of those settings put into my printer as well into the the presets for all of those filaments so I hope this video was helpful for you guys and I hope that you can make a clear decision on which slicer software is right for you so have a great rest of your weekend have a great week and I'll see you next week thank you for everybody for hitting that like button thank you to my subscribers and thank you to all of my patreon supporters bye everybody [Music] thank you

Channel: LenDizzle

Views: 13,879

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Id: 3tzwDoSQiOM

Length: 26min 42sec (1602 seconds)

Published: Sun Aug 20 2023