Bambu Studio and X1C Updates...is Orca Slicer Dead?

I was in the middle of filming a video about the new bamboo Studio update and the new firmware that was released for the X1 I was going to click bait you guys with Orca slicers dead and bamboo Studios the new thing and then I went to go print with Orca slicer and lo and behold there's an update and they added Ellis's PA tool that I have a whole video on how to get working on these printers and it's not that simple now it's just an orca slicer so both of these slicers added some cool new features and both are headed in great directions so which one do you use I'm Jake with butter pockets and let's figure it out so I want to cover the changes to Bamboo Studio first before we get into Orca slicer so they added a new version of the automatic calibration that's shaped a little bit different it's more compact it takes up less of the space on the actual plate and with it they called it flow Dynamic calibration which is a fancy way to say it's checking your pressure advance and setting a value for it except now it stores it in the printer lets you change it and lets you apply that profile to different filaments that you have in your AMS which is awesome that is exactly what I asked for there's a few Oddities with it but I'm so glad they added this the next thing they added was flow rate calibration that is automatic or manual and is stored in a filament profile in the slicer which is awesome because this is exactly what I asked for like this is a huge update and I'm so happy to see it and they also added skipping areas of the build plate in the middle of a print so if something fails Falls over whatever you you can skip that area so that way you don't keep wasting filament or potentially ruining the whole plate there's so much more they added in this update and you can check it out in the link in the description but I want to cover these things because I think they're some of the biggest features and they're the features I was most excited about so first I want to cover this low Dynamic calibration so when you're in the slicer if you go to this calibration tab you'll see these two flow Dynamics and flow rate I'm going to click on this flow Dynamics and they'll give you this nice picture it's the same kind of thing I got you guys with in the thumbnail they show you the shitty print and they show you this after and this is Magic and it's going to make it look like this and in my testing it it gets pretty close so they give you this this speech here that says when to do this if you introduce a new filament of different brands models if your nozzle is worn out if the max volumetric speed or print temperature has changed in the filament setting from what I can tell you can run this either manually or Auto from your slicer and what it will do is it will generate a number that you can access here in the device tab if you look under each of my filaments there's a k which is for pressure advance and you're able to edit this and that is what running this calibration does so now here's the thing if you go into prepare and you add a model I'm just going to add this if you slice it and you go to go print it you can also hit flow Dynamics calibration using micro lidar you would think that doing this is the same as running it in here and it is not when you do this it will run it and it will use it and the print will come out good but it does not save it into this right here because the last thing I ran was with this filament right here I ran a test I turned on that flow Dynamics calibration when I sliced it and it did not save the number but I have the print but it actually looks really good and I'm impressed it turned out a lot better than I was expecting it turned out a lot better than I remember the auto calibration working before this update so I'm impressed but I do find it a little strange that when you run it at the beginning of the print they still kind of intend for you to run it at the beginning of every print unless you run from the slicer and you get it saved into your printer so when we go into this flow Dynamics calibration you can calibrate up to four filaments at a time since these are all four pla let's just run it and see what happens okay so now that the print is done you see that we have this we can hit next and we get access to this screen this is sick it is so cool that it did this that you can choose all four of the filaments that you did you can give it a name so I know in my A1 slot it's like a gray filament so I can type that it was Atomic Gray pla and I can give it a more descriptive name if I want but it gives me K value for pressure advance here's the kicker I know this is the wrong value and I know this because if I run Ellis's test 0.02 is about right so now that that's done and it's saved in your device tab you can see if I go to this AMS those numbers are all saved right here and I can edit these if I want to the other thing you can do is if you go to calibration you can click this manual calibration button which if you do this and you go to the wiki I'm not going to run this one if you do the manual calibration it will run pretty much the line test that you're used to you pick the line that is the straightest all the way across and you can even see like from here this one really doesn't change width across the length of the line this is the one you would choose so I'm not going to run this one but I wanted to explain it when you're on this menu if you click manage result you can see all of the ones that you've run before you can edit you can delete them so I ran a print with this bad pressure Advanced K value and this is what it looks like I'll do a close-up so the one on the left was printed with the calibration run at the time of the print when you click print now and the one on the right was printed with the setting with from that auto calibration run through the slicer if I flip these over it's so evident in this light how unsharp the corners are on the right print versus the one on the left and it's funny because they came off of both doing Auto calibration but one of them looks like crap and the other one doesn't so for whatever reason if you run it in the slicer doesn't really work that well I mean look right here at the line in the middle of the bamboo on the top right you can see pressure advances messed up just this whole print doesn't look that good so I would recommend running it at the beginning of your print that works well but running it through the slicer just doesn't so they fixed it as you can see there was a hot fix for the printer again something else released in the middle of me trying to film this video and the K value is now closer I saw some people on Reddit say that theirs are aligning like quite well with their manual tests mine's still not I still think this filament is closer to 0.02 but it's better and that means that bamboo Labs is committed to fixing this and making it better because this came out within the a day of the update coming out and allowing this whole thing so I expect this to get even better and it's probably going to be even better by the time I post this video I at first had thought you read about this in the wiki it says that it is different than linear advance in Marlin and pressure advance and Clipper so I thought maybe that the K value that it came up with was slightly different because they're applying a different algorithm to keeping the pressure constant in the hot end I don't think that's the case I think it is just pressure advance and for whatever reason this is doing it wrong but they've already updated it once and by the time I release this video it might even be updated again so keep your eye on it but I want this to work the next thing I want to talk about is flow rate calibration and this did work I'm super excited about this one and honestly I'm probably going to stop using the one in Orca slicer and just use this from now on so you can run this Auto calibration and if you do you select the filament just like you did with flow Dynamics you can't run more than one you can just run one so when you run it you would hit calibrate and it would print this test structure so looking at this test structure you can see that it prints this pattern four times I believe what it's doing is it's printing different widths with these four patterns using the lidar using the camera and checking it and then it determines which one is closest to what it was trying to produce which it would then use to calculate Extrusion multiplier and in my testing most of my filaments are about 0.98 around 0.98 and this test came up with 0.98 so I believe it it knows what it's doing here and I really like this test a lot after it runs this it'll save a filament profile like this one right here where it says generic pla flow rate calibrated B4 I believe you can set the name and if not it Just names it based off of the profile that you ran it from and the slot it was in your AMS I have two ams's it was in my MSB it was in slot 4. so that feature is really really cool and I'm so glad they added that the last new feature that I want to cover in bamboo studio and really on your printer itself so if you're printing multiple things and one of them fails and the others don't or multiple of them fail and the others don't mid print you can exclude one of them to not print so it doesn't sit there and extrude over thin air or something or end up making all of the print fail and you can end up just printing the ones that didn't fail and continuing on the print this is really cool I believe octoprint has something similar to this and let's test this I'm going to intentionally just Skip One just to see how it works and I'll show you guys that so as you can see I've got four test models here Printing and the one in the back right is actually a cylinder so now that it's printed a couple layers what I'm going to do is I'm going to go on the printer and I'm going to cancel that back right print in the bottom left there's this button if you push this you'll see it can detect where there's objects on your print plate so if you highlight over this one and you can choose to skip it so we'll skip this and it cannot be undone continue yes and now it will skip the back right print so let's go back and we'll keep watching and should do it next it skipped it right there so that's really awesome if something were to fail you're able to skip it and save the rest of your build plate save your filament stop anything from happening this is an awesome feature so last I also want to cover that Orca slicer actually just added in Ellis's pressure Advanced tool which I showed you in a previous video how to get working with some custom G-Code now it's just an orca slicer which is awesome so if you go up into calibration you can do pressure advance and you can change it to pa pattern and this is his tool so the same way I explained before you should probably run a wide sweep and then you can run a fine sweep so you can change this from 0 to 0.08 to once you narrow it down maybe 0.04 and .001 steps and when you hit OK you're going to see just a little square and then when you slice it it'll actually show you the whole pattern they explain this in the wiki and there is a little bit of a work to it running in Orca slicer so if we pull up the wiki they show you here and they tell you about the little uh prism little patch and then they tell you about what settings apply and how this changes it in this in the slicer so it says the ls specified line width as a percent of filament diameter Orca pattern does the same in terms of line width the pattern only makes use of the default and first layer widths so that's one thing to take into consideration in terms of speed it only uses first layer speed and other layer speed outer wall this is the same thing that I told you when we did it using Ellis's website is to use your outer wall speed because that's what's gonna that is what affects how the outside of your print looks and so by using that speed you're tuning it for an aesthetic you're tuning it to make your print look good and that's kind of the point so it's really awesome that Orca slicer added this in and I still think that this is probably the best way to tune pressure Advance it's nice that bamboo Studio does it automatically but this allows you to tune in for how you want your prints to look because pressure Advance at the end of the day really is an aesthetic thing you want your seam to go away you want your Corners to be sharp and you want your print to look as good as possible so if you run this you're able to go in in the in this button here edit your preset enable pressure advance and use whatever value you get from Ellis's tool or from Orca slicer now which is why when I was talking about how I know the K value is incorrect for the bamboo Studio automatic calibration because when I run this I get 0.02 this is not the only thing they added in this Orca slicer update and one thing to remember is those automatic calibrations I discussed earlier from bamboo Studio only work if you have the lidar which only works on the X1 so if you have a p1s or a p1p or you have a printer that's not a bamboo lab printer Orca slicer is definitely still the way to go and if you look at what they're doing this has become a really good slicer and honestly I would start to use this over super slicer which is what I use for my Clipper printers there's quite a few other changes that they made and I'll leave a link to this in the description so definitely go check it out and if you don't use Orca slicer yet I definitely recommend giving it a try even if you don't own a bamboo lab printer it works great for other printers as well so there you have it updates are coming out hot and I'm trying to keep up to date with this stuff for you guys so that way you always know what's going on and you always know what the best thing is to use but as far as my conclusions go I really do think bamboo studio is making a step in the right direction I do think though it is mostly geared towards bamboo Labs printers I probably wouldn't use it if I was didn't have a bamboo Labs printer and a lot of the updates that I talked about today are very exclusive to the X1 because they're all automated and they use the features on the X1 like lidar that you don't have on those other printers so if you have a p1p or p1s or a printer that's not from bamboo lab I don't know how much those updates are going to mean to you which is why it is really cool that Orca slicer is kind of doing it for everyone else so if you have a P1 Another Printer that's not a bamboo lab printer I definitely still recommend using Orca slicer and depending on how involved you want to be with the tuning of your printer even if you have an X1 like me I'm probably going to stick with Orca slicer it's nice that they're improving the automation of the printer and I'm glad to see them doing it but as of right now I still don't really trust it and something I've repeated on Reddit and in the comments is if when I was buying my X1 if the p1s had existed I would have probably chosen that printer I don't think that the cost of the X1 over the p1s justifies the lidar and the automated capabilities of that of the X1 I think the p1s is the best of both worlds you get the enclosure you get the fast speeds you don't have to print the enclosure yourself like you do with the p1p and you get a great printer that can use the AMS system and that you can tune yourself and I really do think it's the best bang for the buck so is orca slicer dead and is bamboo studio in I don't think so but like I've said multiple times I'm glad to see bamboo Labs stepping up their game making these updates making hot fixes within a day it's really good to see let me know what you guys think about these updates in the comments and if you've used any of these features yourself how do they go for you if you learned something leave a like and remember subscribing keeps your prints buttery smooth see in the next one

Channel: Butter Pockets Prints

Views: 37,605

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Id: pQ13gQpmqcY

Length: 16min 56sec (1016 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 07 2023