Old to new inline 6 engine swap! 1948 Chevy gets a rebuilt motor!

hey guys welcome back if you're new here my name is Travis and we have been doing a series on this 1948 Chevy pickup truck and the matter that is most pressing right now is we need an engine for this truck if you haven't watched the previous videos go check them out after this to really get up to speed as to where we're at but to make a long story short the original 216 engine that was in it was completely trash had a rod knocking so we took it out and the executive decision was made to swap it with a 235 well we think we found a 235 here locally in 2 on so let's go over to his property check it out see if he has one and if we think we can use it we'll buy it freshen it up put it in here and she'll have a nice fresh good reliable engine so we went down to this gentleman's yard and looked around for a little bit and at first we found some like GMC and Ford inline sixes that weren't um obviously 235s and we did find the engine that he thought was a 235 that he said he had well this is not a 235 this is a later model uh Chevy inline 6 but we did find a 235 way here in the corner like by the wall and he wanted 225 bucks for it there's the engine there's the four-speed transmission and this one is a 59 model so it's a 59 later model 235 but we don't know the history of it the condition of it or anything like that so that's what we have to figure out ready all right go ahead and let it down down let it down so I am the proud new owner of a 235 cubic in non babbit motor that was the whole reason for this swap guys if you remember in the first episode obviously the 216 had a rod knock and even though it runs like a sewing machine uh just you know got a rod knock and can't do it can't do it so so I figured I'd upgrade and although all the engine oil and caked on dirt doesn't look like much of an upgrade this is a massive upgrade the 235 had insert bearings not babit bearings it had a full pressure oiling system a lot of you that mess with these trucks probably already know the deal as to why I did this but long story short it's a big upgrade from the 216 and the reason that I picked a 235 instead of doing a V8 swap because you know you might think well if the 216s trashed I mean it would be a way better upgrade to put V8 in it or something like that well that adds a whole other host of problems is you're going to have to find a different radiator you're going to have to get a uh uh crossmember support for the engine mounts for a V8 you're going to have to change the transmission you're going to have to put mounts in for that you're going to have to do a drive line and then you got to get rid of the torque tube cuz it's still a torque I mean you got everything down the line is going to be jacked with this right here is the least invasive best upgrade that I can do and I got this whole managerie for 2 and A4 quart and the reason I got it for two and a/ qu cuz it's locked up just like this one was so I'm just a big fan of Locked Up Motors here the 235s will bolt in almost directly um because the 235s and the 216s were made at around the same time so they they kind of had a lot of interchangeability so the engine mount up front is the same it will bolt up to the fly wheel and the transmission that's in this truck the only difference that I've read about online is the um not the flywheel the fan this fan pulley is a little different and it comes out a little further forward than this one oh Dad might be doing some measuring um see how this one's a lot more snubby so everything else bolts up but the water pump is just too long and it'll hit the radiator so uh we'll have to figure something out with that not too sure yet but this is not the first time that this has been attempted so we'll we'll figure it out and how we figured out what year it was was you can look right here let me show you guys I was trying to figure out what year this what kind of motor this was in the yard before I bought it um and I was having a hard time because there's numbers right here right f09 whatever and then there's some numbers right here and then what I read was the numbers right here so if you get this out of the way there's numbers behind the starter they they had numbers a through L for the 12 months of the year this is I meaning it was made in June 16th of 959 which is good just exactly what I wanted exactly what I needed some of the early 235s were still babit Motors low pressure just like the 216s so it's just all these technicalities that you want to check out before you whatever so got the correct motor is the point we're going to find out just how locked up it is cuz I couldn't turn it with the fan I think I've seen it move it did you yeah there we go we just didn't have enough force to move it by the fan yeah there we go little tight little tight oh these are loose they're loose it's not really a good sign I guess my wife got me a uh one of those Bor Scopes you can look down in stuff with for Christmas so we'll give it a little try never have used one so cylinder number one doesn't look too bad has some Rust around the sidewalls possibly sat open uh cylinder number two looked pretty bad it had some very significant rust on the sidewalls and look at this goop over here on the side I'm not even really sure how that happens but this was a cylinder where the valve was probably open while it sat cylinder number three does not look too bad actually the sidewalls don't look bad the Piston has some carbon buildup but you know to be expected cylinder number four is about the same uh this one the Piston's all the way down you can get a good look at the sidewalls pretty clean little bit of surface rust but nothing too significant this that would run looking at cylinder number five there's definitely some significant surface rust on these cylinder walls uh some carbon buildup on the Piston but kind of like the others also and last cylinder number six can't really get a good look at because it's like almost at top dead center so we'll just have to move on drop things off at the machine shop and probably probably expect to pick it up within a couple of days you know heads done crank turned uh or dropping the block off and having a hot tank board all that within a couple 3 days I'm picking it up and going back together with it ain't that way now I mean you drop it off and two 3 weeks later you pick it up now we're in neutral what are you doing well I'm pretty sure got this bolt what bolt oh you know what I took out the wrong ones what am I even doing boy look how clean that motor is it's very clean up top nice there you go will it come out now no still still hard there was two bolts underneath the flywheel cover that come in from the other side I didn't see so we got those and uh do the top two and this should come off there's a transmission B nobody wants it nobody wants it here is our pilot bushing oh throw out bear I'm sorry now pilot bushing is in there throw out bearing I mean what if you get this thing all done and you want to do it do a road trip in it that'd be fun you know what I mean you want that old motor in there you [Music] know get that 2x4 over there [Music] this has been off before because some of these have these washers on them these lock locking kind of washers but some of them don't so somebody's had this apart see don't hit your concrete yeah there we go well that's weird let that uh let that thing down put another one so after thinking about it and mulling it over in my head you know there's two ways to go about it just throw this in there and see if it works and if it runs then great and deal with it once it's in there or pressure wash it take it apart do a light rebuild on it right Rings rod bearings main bearings gasket set maybe do the heads and um actually freshen it up for real and make it a decent motor and instead of just throwing it in there and hoping for the best cuz we did get it to unlock you know turns really good now I think what I'm going to do is for the first time in this Channel's history is rebuild the motor it will blow it all apart we'll take it apart and we'll we'll rebuild it we'll do like a poor man's rebuild we'll get a master seal kit we'll hone it and Dad actually has a valve grinding machine that he bought way back in the day so we actually have the capacity ourselves to cut the seats cut the valves and we'll have a we'll have a nice motor it will extend the life of this truck tremendously um on top of the engine itself being a decent upgrade rebuilding it is just kind of the cherry on top so let's go ahead and get this thing cleaned off got my pressure washer right there and then we'll go ahead and start taking it apart get [Music] now I've said this before on here but I like to use Easy off oven cleaner degreaser for engine blocks and stuff like that got the heavy stuff off with the pressure washer and now uh I just go over it wherever the greasy spots are hit it with some easy off let it set for a bit loosen that grease up see like right here and and you know what I might as well see that would have been a problem we' have got it in the truck and all this been happy as a pig and You' leaked all your water out doing freeze plugs in the motor can be done but it's just a pain so I'll probably pop a few of these freeze plug out pressure wash the block out while we're doing this before we take it all apart and then you once you take it apart you don't want to get water everywhere so while things are halfway sealed up we'll do it now I got one more can sitting on my shelf in the inventory there's not actually a lot of caked on grease on this oil pan Which I'm surprised about usually that that gets the brunt of it before I clean this I just wanted to show you what was in here see that if you would have just said ah no big deal just put it in there and run it look what you'd have been shoving through that water jacket also check out the back I busted the back freeze plug out you would have filled this up with water and that's what you would have been shoving through the motor [Music] let's dig into this we're going to take the intake and exhaust off as a unit together pop this bad boy off pop the valve cover off and then start in here but we'll take this off first if I can I always try to put everything back where it was instead of taking this and setting it down I personally just like to put it here so you have it and you haven't lost it when you go to look for it it's it's right where it really should be impact won't fit here I D these with WD40 so we'll give this a shot see if we can get a 96 okay it's on two dowel pins on either side to guide it which is kind of cool just like that oh we're still caught on something I see um let's try and save that clip there's the intake and exhaust manifold lay that down right there put all these bolts back just make a habit of doing that you know where they are and you're not looking for them in a bag or in the bed of a truck let's see these come off yeah this I put this cover back on just so I could pressure wash it but just put two screws back in it plus it doesn't matter too much if we get a little water in there because we're not letting the motor sit so it's not really going to hurt it all too much we're taking it apart oh see I still got water in there oh well nice we should probably go middle out just like how you put them on middle out and the these are one directional so you can't obviously flip them the other way so I'm you know I would mark them like f r front rear but there's only one way to put these [Music] on that'll come off like that set these right here in the valve cover got our valves our push rods okay [Music] all right is there anything stopping us from doing this nothing's hooked from bottom to top all around nothing nothing nothing should be good [Music] to h okay where do we where am I going to put this once I get it off let's think about this I should put it on the new workbench right because if we do the valves we take the valves apart and the head apart we're going to need that we should not put this in the bed and also I want to mention um a lot of you who watch my videos know I work on the ground usually uh I'll put stuff on the ground and whatever and uh I've been needing a workbench and a subscriber reached out to me named Bruce and uh gave me this workbench he said look I just want you to have it I don't have a use for it and uh just take it so I very much appreciate this workbench I've been looking for a steel one wood just does not cut it for what I do around here so brand new to me 6 foot workbench perfect for what I do around here so thank you Bruce for this workbench and thank him down in the comments for helping out the cause here let's turn on a light and since this thing is conveniently on Wheels instead of me having to Lug it around over there let's just roll it there and take it off right next to [Music] it taking a look at these Pistons yeah we had crud covering the water jacket yeah yeah it was crummy but it got to turning over but see that I mean it would have blew it out but you know it's good we're doing this it's pretty dirty I mean look at that wow yeah she's dirty I mean she could use a good cleaning valve job head gasket yeah doubt we're going to be needing that but just in case you know save everything right we will be using this 100% I'm sure it's 12 volt since this is a 59 motor a all right look at that look at that oh oh my gosh look what we would have been passing through that I mean even just this can plug up a few cores in a radiator look at this oh jeez yeah we'll have to pressure wash this out again good thing we're doing this right if we're going to do it right oh oh whoa cap looks beautiful on the inside n and2 N9 and2 a little peashooter hey yeah [Music] [Music] well thanks oh well maybe somebody's been in here before which is also not a good sign I don't know hopefully this thing isn't bored 60 over [Music] TAA uhoh [Music] okay so we're going to push these Pistons out right now and I just want to be and I want to be careful this is important to get correct back the way it was put where they were put and I noticed on here uh maybe you can't see it on the camera but sometimes they're labeled sometimes they're not but the cap is labeled one and the rod is labeled one 2 3 4 5 six all the way down and they are not labeled on the other side so you can't reverse them one and one every number on the side of the distributor so we can take these out put them back together in the same spot in the same direction and four number two six [Music] that was a tough one o oh cool it's gears nice I don't know why I was thinking I was going to see a chain I don't know I've never rebuilt one of these all right lay off well oh I found it w yeah those valve seals are totally gone they just crumbled in my hand there it is all right so we got a few different tools going on this morning we have a hone connected to the drill and we also have a ridge dreaming tool so what we're doing with the hone is cleaning these cylinders out see how there's rust and stuff right there see how these are really dirty right cylinder number two is the worst once we clean out all the cylinders and what the ridge reaming tool does is get rid of the carbon Ridge at the top you see this area right here that's looks like just plain metal carbon builds up there because the head of the Piston comes to the top of the cylinder head but the piston ring is a little bit beneath that so as it's going up and down it only reaches to here top dead center before it goes back down so this area is unused barely oh now that was like too much but whatever you never stick in one spot you go up and down at a constant speed and uh just as a side note when I'm explaining things and what I'm doing I'm not trying to assume that the viewer or you are dumb I just don't know the level of expertise people have when they're watching my videos some people know exactly what tool I'm using before I even mention it and some people have no idea what I'm doing so I just I just try to explain it briefly so that everybody gets the gist of what's going on I just wanted to this one was really bad so before I even tried to ring it I wanted to see what it looked like so I'm going to show you something open the book first first couple of pages is going to be your engine specs so what dad's showing me here is how to measure the rod journal on the crank to see if it's standard factory size because if this motor's been rebuilt a bunch of times and the crank has been cut and ground at a machine shop uh the diameter changes and they cut it in what dad was doing with the book is showing me the factory measurements of the journals and we were miking the factory journals on this crank to see if they match up or to see if this has been cut uh regardless of what the bearings say or don't say on them we would know for a fact because if they're cut so many times you can't cut them anymore close close it in so we got 1 in we have 2 in we have 0.123 so we're at 2.3 and then this is your finest measurement above that even 2.31 2.32 2.33 2.34 we are at 2.31 if you can catch your finger on The Ridges of these journals that means that it needs to be cut this needs to be smooth and completely without ridges and I can catch see how my finger is catching on some of these some of these are really bad one of them was yeah this one cylinder number six you can see it right there with your naked eye but you can feel it with your finger and some of these are they're pretty worn out and they got some bad ridges in them so I am going to have the crank cut because you you can't put it together like that see if that cam shaft will [Music] remove just not getting it Square there we go had to take the distributor out so bring it over here let's check something real quick [Music] and uh this is a old tool uh from a lost art my dad's had this for many many years this is a ridge reaming tool so this is your cutting blade it's your Cutting Edge and you can back it out as you turn this this comes up right comes up the threads and backs up and as it's coming up it's cutting that Ridge off see it how it's all shiny now can't feel anything with my fingernail that's a clean ddge take the blade back in now it'll spin freely go on to the next one [Applause] [Music] [Applause] n [Music] all right so what is the official consensus on this engine now that we have it all tore down and I've honed all the cylinders and most most of them came out pretty good I would classify them as usable I would not classify these as perfect the only way to get this perfect would be to send it off to the machine chop have the cylinders barded have the deck Tred up but uh look again what did I say in the beginning this is a poor man's rebuild I mean we don't have the money for all that stuff I mean when you every step you take into the machine shop is just an open checkbook all right I mean it's just things can get out of hand really fast I mean the money you can spend on an engine just goes to infin really you got to like put your foot down at some point the condition of this engine it has a lot of miles on it and it's wore out it's rebuildable but it's a lot more wore out than I was kind of hoping I was hoping I could get away with using a lot of things and not having to go to a machine shop at all I dropped the crank off to have the rod journals and the mains turned that's 225 bucks every single rod bearing is down to the Copper plating which means that they are definitely wore out the main bearings are definitely wore out uh all of the lifters are wore they have cones in them dips in them concave Parabola whatever you want to call it they should be completely true and flat we either need new lifters or have those ones resurfaced the cam shaft completely wore the hard facing is gone you can see it's dark you can see the top of the lobe is shiny which is what it should be but the rest of the lobe is pretty much wore off you can feel it with your your finger it's rough it's pretty much every single lobe the cam shaft is wore out and as far as the head goes that is another story there's good and bad news with that we'll start with the bad news first it is a lot rustier than I'd hoped I don't even know if you could cut these valves you'd probably have to put new valve seats in them if you could even do that um there's so much rust especially on a few of these you can see this is pretty bad this is really bad I mean look at that you can't even see the valve seat you know it's just really rusted out and all of this came out of the head so this used to be the head so this head is in really rough shape that is the bad news also if you take a look at the valves um a few of these valves I me these valves are not in good shape but like this one I mean this one's rusted to to the point of pitting right here and thinning look at look how thin that is look at this part and look at this part I mean this valve is very bad you can't reuse that valve so then you're stuck buying all new valves all new valve seats you're going to the Machine Shop you're having it decked and magnafluxed and cut and valves and seats and all that stuff that is an open checkbook I can't do that the good news is dad comes to the rescue every single time this is a supposedly rebuilt 235 head that he got with a 53 Chevy truck he bought like 12 years ago they threw this head in and said it was our dad's truck and he had this head redone supposedly and he never used it and my dad got it with the truck when he sold the truck he didn't he kept the head but he's never built a 235 he's just had it sitting in his garage for like 12 years so he said here use it if you can use it and I'm like uh yeah I can use that so this is a supposedly rebuil bu head but at least it's a 235 even if it's not rebuilt it is a 235 head in much better shape let's take a look at the valve side hold on so all the valves and everything look pretty spectacular uh it almost looks like they put new seats in it right here see that I mean this might have been redone uh very possible we don't have receipts but looking at the condition of it it looks clean enough to eat off of uh this is the the answer this is essentially the answer uh thank dad for this cuz this saved me a lot of time and money having this total freak accident thing to have this I don't know what it's going to cost for lifters in a cam not sure what I'm going to do there quite yet by the time this is over we're probably going to have like a th000 bucks in this thing or a little more all right all right guys so while we're waiting for parts to come back for the engine the cam and the crank we're going to get the cherry picker out we're going to take this motor out because eventually we're going to need it out anyway so while we have some downtime might as well get after [Music] [Music] it [Music] take this upper hose [Music] off so these are actually carriage bolts that hold the bottom of the radiator core support down and you know the carriage bolts have squares on the inside that stop them from turning because they don't have a hex head on top they're round well this Square rounded off and now it's just turning and I I really can't get it out cuz it just keeps turning and I don't have a welder to tack weld it to itself so that I can um stop it from turning so I got a vice grip on it we'll see if that does anything [Music] no and I'm out of oxy acetylene I'm I'm out of acetylene actually to cut it ah sucker got it oh the lower hose is on forgot about [Music] that well there's that that was stupid right on my electric drill and on a cord guys like my new creeper my new creeper dad's actually had this as wall art for years and he said well if you want to use it just go ahead and use it so here we go we're using this old wooden Western Auto creeper lued up the wheels and I don't know I mean it's helpful for me you know since I don't have a lift to stand under I mean heck this is the next best thing since I got poured I might as well use it to roll around on two bolts that are holding the motor in the front motor mount and there's four bolts holding it in the rear on the transmission typically my train of thought is I take all the bolts around the bell housing to take a motor out by itself but you take the four bolts off that Bolt the bell housing to the transmission and you pull the the clutch the flywheel and the bell housing all out as a unit which um is is a lot is a lot easier actually and let's go two for two Bingo [Music] baby there we go just had to get a straight shot on it there we go there we go there it is okay clutch shifter unhooked there we go all right is there anything else I'm missing [Music] so I got all the bolts out amazingly the temperature Senter came unhooked so I think I have everything unbolted so nothing left to do but just try it huh there we [Music] go there it is well it's on the ground that was tougher than I thought it was those two bolts on the side of the Mount that got me because one uh they were on a hard to reach place two they were nut and bolted so you had to get to them from the top also which was sucks cuz it's down underneath and three they had cotter pins through them cotter pins so fighting those for like an hour so it's done now it's done and [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] over [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] oh [Applause] [Music] all righty so we got the 216 off the floor and over here in the corner because once we build the 235 and put it in here um I think we're definitely going to put this on the engine stand and I want to see what happened right I want to see if it was really a rod Knockin which we're pretty sure it is but like you know which Rod where's it at what's the problem what's going on in there what's the condition of that motor so once we get all done here I think we'll put this there and do that um I got the clutch and the flywheel and all that sitting over there cuz I don't know how available those parts are so I'm saving those and what I'm doing right now got my old craftsman bench grinder turned on and we're cleaning up all these bolts that we took out of the like this one right here these are the bolts that bolted the transmission to the well housing all these little bolts right here are the bolts that held the radiator core support in you know and I definitely clean and reuse these old bolts wire wheel to crot off of them and put them back on because as long as the threads are good I mean they're still usable you know they're just as structurally sound as they were the day they were made and even if the threads are messed up you can still retap them but I don't know some people might think oh it's just a given get new hardware all new bolts it'll be better I don't know I mean I don't think so I've reused old bolts all my life I've never had one come off or anything and and and they're expensive they're expensive this bolt right here this big old fat bolt that boled the to the bell housing I mean this is probably a $250 $3 bolt you know and then the lock washers to go along with it so 2 46 8 bucks right there with tax 10 bucks lock washers are another for this bolt 6070 cents a piece I mean you could spend just on these bolts I'm cleaning up alone 20 25 bucks at Ace Hardware I mean it's ridiculous you know and you got to get in your truck and waste gas and wear and tear on your vehicle so it's just like nah I clean them take a little bit of time wire whee them think about life and put them back on when you're ready and plus some of these bolts are specialty or specific some of them have shoulders on them some of them are shaped a certain way different thread pitches different sizes is and you have to recreate all that when you go to the store to buy them whereas these are all pre-made the way they're supposed to be the way that they were and they're all the perfect lengths like just easier just easier to do this more cost effective and efficient and I just got the crank back from Gary's machine shop uh you can see they did the mains and the rod journals he did them 1010 they were able to be cut 10 10 he didn't have to go over so I was very happy about that looks really good I'm really happy with the crank now all we have to do is wait for the cam shaft to come back from Oregon cam grinding in Vancouver Washington uh it's way up there being ground right now and uh kind of in the middle of all this I'm just trying to do what I can do before I can assemble things I'm taking the piston rings out and you can kind of get the history of stuff when you're taking it apart and I found something interesting so right here you can see these are froze these rings are froze to the Piston you can only see the Piston head so this would have been a dead hole if we would have tried to just stick it in and run it so this is what they mean when someone says I'm trying to start this motor but the Rings are froze the Rings are froze it won't run it's got no compression because those Rings expand against the side of the cylinder wall and it doesn't let compression through but since those are froze in as the Piston's coming up that compression is just going on every single side it's going into the engine into the crank case it's it's not keeping it in the cylinder head this is the next piston piston number three and you can see here obviously that the Rings are stuck out and they're kind of like Big Springs right see that when you put that piston in and boom you let that out against the cylinder wall it Seals All That compression in so this one would have been a complete dead hole you see how these Pistons look the skirts right here with the uh pin going through it and everything and this one looks the same here and then this one is not like the others uh whenever they redid this motor they put a new piston in cylinder number or what would that have been four back in the day not sure why they would have put another piston in there but yeah they put another piston in there it's not like the rest you can see on this one says GM so this is a factory piston and this one you know it has no markings anywhere it's just a rogue aftermarket piston 6 of 71 if you can see that right there 6 of 71 so this was rebuilt in June of 1971 and on the other side you can see it says see it says cite right there on the inside of the bearing and when I ordered new bearings I was able to order cite here on the bearing you can see it says 01 of 21 I just thought it was kind of interesting that they used cite bearings to rebuild this engine and 43 years later it's getting rebuilt again with the same brand bearings so I got the head on the choing Block here and I know I said this head was rebuilt and I took a few of the valves out and it definitely looks like it was you can see that bluing compound there in the valve seat uh they're using that to see where the valve was seating and you can see this looks cut so they probably put new valve seats in it cut the seats cut the valves I'm guessing they put new valve guides in it because there's like no play in this they probably decked this head and checked it for cracks and everything I mean this is a really it's a rebuilt head I mean again thank dad in the comments that he had this that he's letting me use it because this is saving me from dealing with that one thing about it is is the machine work doesn't have you know an expiration on the shelf life what's done is done that allow forever but but the valve seals although they're brand new are like 30 40 years old we'll just put new valve seals on it valve seal and keepers are on we'll just pick the old one right up out of there [Music] [Music] we'll clean the intake and exhaust manifold surface up and the mating surface between the head and the block I think you guys will appreciate this so that hose reel is from Harbor Freight that's one I bought when I was building this carport and I found this on Facebook and this is like an old hose reel from like the 40s or the 50s it's a Wayne hose reel and I couldn't find any information about this but I took it all apart I cleaned it I uh you know thread taped everything I lubricated the insides and uh yeah now it's like a cool old working hose r it locks and everything [Music] okay it's been a few weeks later yet again and we have our cam back I've been keeping it in here trying to keep it away from weather and anything else so that's the crank so the cam shaft is in here got it back from Oregon cams it's ground up uh mild performance grind I guess and then here's my lifters right they're all resurfaced nice and flat and true and ready to go and now that we have all that we can get cooking trying to reassemble this thing uh so what we're doing right now is I am cleaning the grooves of the Piston let me run it across so you can see see it hear it just grinding so you just move it in circles you know I actually tried cleaning these grooves with one of the old rings and I was having a really hard time cutting through that carbon you want to get it to where you can see the steel of the Piston see I'm still seeing crap come off of it that's looking pretty good so we got dat over here and what we're doing now is we're about to pound out the old cam bearings and install the new ones this is Dad's tool this is a cam bearing installer tool and it's also what we're going to use to beat it out this is your oil hole that oils the crank and it oils the cam and this hole if you look through there you can see daylight there's actually a hole in that Cam Bearing right here and you have to align that hole perfectly because if you do it like this the oil can't get through the hole you're not going to get oil to your cam so it has to be pretty much perfectly aligned with that hole when you go to install them or else you're going to tear your motor up how long have you had this cam tool probably bought it when I was about 21 is that 35 years 4 years 35 years what what brand brand is this I think it's snapon really I think you bought this brand new from Snap-on you know evidently I evidently I did that must have been a fortune yeah see wow yeah this is a Snap-On that's awesome this is a piece of History right here we got to keep that forever yeah I mean I sure I about the snap [Music] it's coming yeah it's coming boy you were within millimeters all right so I'm loosen me and make sure you put the that Cam Bearing up on top the way it was so we I mean I know we know but it always pays to know for sure so it goes like this and then it goes looks to be lined up boy there sure ain't a lot of room the enough sure you lined it yeah good keep going yeah you're even so I know it's going to have to go farther MH but you just want to look and see how close you are I know we still got quite a way to go don't oh dude it's it's perfect is it it's absolutely perfect see how it's shining through that's perfect absolutely we can go to the next one [Music] that's it is it good yeah you always and make sure your cone hasn't worked its way out cuz you'll be hammering it crooked see if that's tight keep going keep going more more more one more yeah right yeah yeah yep is it good looks good to me you're out look it's factory nobody's ever changed it wonder if they all say that never PID no attention yeah g nobody put cam bearings in yeah it's going in pretty good yeah factory GM camber okay so I took the liberty of putting the main bearings in and I put the Rope seal in the rear main seal uh it looks like this it's literally a rope I mean it seems like very Antiquated technology but I thought it would come with a rubber seal but it came with a rope seal so that's just what we got to put back in it um so I'm going to put some assembly Lube make sure these are clean I'm going to put some assembly Lube on the main bearings and then I guess we'll go ahead and get the crank and set it in there I mean it's time but we're going to be careful not to rotate the crank uh once we set it in because we got a plastic gaug it the caps and see if we're within spec on that so so down easy yeah I'm just trying to all right make sure so the plastic GAE starts out as this little green hair that you cut off and put in there see that how it smashed it so this is 1,000 2,000 3,000 so it's a little smaller than the 1,000 so we're going to go right here and it's almost exactly in this white one which is 015 so we're totally within our realm of acceptable that's actually really good put the Rope seal in the main cap put assembly Lube on all of the Caps put them in torqu them down I didn't think you guys need to see me torque things twice kind of boring if you've ever rebuilt engines you know this but you always turn everything as you go so we put the crank in we turn it hopefully it turns by hand it should I mean there's no pistons in it or anything it should turn by hand they're harder to turn good Lord it should turn by hand start to turn might start to turn a little better and easier all right well it's not it's not bound up it's just turning a little tight if it was bound up it wouldn't turn at all well we already seen it on the plastic gauge it's not bound up yeah so here is the oil pump and I had to take the cap off to get the uh crank in and out but what we're going to do while we're in here is take the old gasket out wipe these surface surfaces off what you do to help it out what I'm going to do to help it out is take some petroleum jelly Vaseline smear it in there as much as you can because what it does is is essentially it creates a seal in there for a short time and you can just shove it full and it will help create a vacuum initially to pull the oil up into the oil pump and through the motor now it's not really and maybe it's not a necessary step I mean nine times out of 10 you know it'll pick it up but since it's so dry it might not create enough vacuum to pull it up but this Vaseline will for sure make a seal we can go ahead and tighten the main feed line that carries the oil throughout because you can put all the Pistons in with this all connected but I just had to unhook it just for the crank so should be good uh let's see so the oil Gap ring goes on first and then you have a ring that goes on the top and bottom of that Gap ring so you to see what where's my book and you put the other one on then this ring has a DOT on the top that tells you that it faces the top of the engine you have to watch out for that when you're doing these rings in the right spots yeah this is the best ring compressor I've ever owned in my life where'd you get it bought all snap on man you want to talk about punching Pistons boy pow pow pow you know back before this I had one of them old crank ones them old crashman crank ones I've never seen one oh God and then when I seen this I couldn't believe man you could bop them Pistons right in man it used to so time consuming putting pistons in with them old ones that they had for years was it time consuming and then when I when I bought this I couldn't believe that they made something so un you guys are getting a lot of history in one video not only are we rebuilding an old motor but we got uh dad's cam uh Cam Bearing installer tool that he bought from Snap-on in the 80s got this piston ring tool that Dad bought in the 80s I mean this is some historical stuff you're witnessing what we'll do now we're going to eat some lunch and in a minute we're going to turn the motor over and plastic gaug the rod caps to make sure that they're all within spec probably won't show the whole process if something goes ay I'll I'll show you but it's pretty boring process so um yeah we'll keep it moving we plastic AED the rod caps underneath everything everything looked good turned it over uh we thread tapped all the holes brake cleaned them out blew them out clean the top surface as best we can got the head gasket set on there uh we're ready to set the head on and once we set the head on bolt it down torque it up and uh then we probably will set the cam shaft in but let's put this on first all right so you swing your side around actually we should have dropped a headbolt in there let to drag the head all right that's good I mean we'll just lift it up and move it around [Music] you think that press is strong enough to press that on there boy it ought to be 60,000 lb ought to go somewhere you didn't get that will be strong enough press that on there dad's giving me crap cuz I just bought this press off of Facebook Marketplace and I'm all proud of it cuz it's americanmade boy be careful cuz you make sure you don't go too far oh wait wait don't go any farther oh you can go a little bit more oh stop so we got the cam gear on and the little locator plate is still free turning and the gear is flush so we're good there I'm going to put assembly Lube all over the loes and the main um I guess the main bearing parts of the cam and then we'll slide it in real easy and time it up there's a DOT pointing at this point of the gear and there's a DOT pointing to this cave part of the gear and they match up so our timing is aligned all is well what we got to do now is set these lifters in had them soaking in oil overnight just chilling in there just drop them in and then I cleaned off the push rods so along with the cam shaft I showed you guys earlier in the video how these were concave a little bit I showed you the light coming through them and I sent these lifters off with the cam to be redone so I can see where they've cut them and they just made them perfectly true again perfectly flat that's all you want and since everything's the same since the cam is ground and the lifters are ground it doesn't it doesn't matter what sequence you put them in you know a lot of people when you're putting a motor together you always people always say you got to put everything together exactly where it came off each lifter to the same hole it came out of but that would be true if you hadn't if you didn't do any of this because the surfaces mate together once they run together but these are all brand new surfaces so it doesn't matter all right so we re tapped the holes and everything got everything cleaned up now we'll just set them back in there it's kind of weird that all it I guess all it does is just sets down in there yeah it's crooked so these are torqu to 30 sure doesn't seem like a lot you keep go if you keep going you'll find out just how tight they'll go yeah how and then when you strip that thread out of there you'll have a bad look on oh if I put it on right we might get somewhere look at that looking better already going look every even better after we painted yeah I don't know yeah going run up therey and get some great paint so here's the thing about it all right this is D what this is me and Dad's quam paint paint so two or to be or not to be to paint or not to paint because here's you get one vote I get one vote it's it's like that scene in Oh Brother Where Art Thou I'm voting for yours truly well I'm voting for yours truly too you got to paint it see Dad thinks I should paint it because I did all this work to the motor you you rebuilt it you you put your heart and soul into it and you want it to look good right so the the obvious the obvious step is to paint it because you know it doesn't matter if the truck's not restored at least you painted the engine I get it right we've painted Motors we've done all that yeah yeah and I think painting them looks good but to me in this case in this in this scenario because we're leaving the truck the way it is on purpose the the way it looks it'd be like you know it'd be like a gold tooth and a crackhead or something it'd be like uh you know the engine's going to look perfect and the rest of the truck's going to look old like you just dug it up out of a ditch and then the engine's going to be a shiny piece of like a gold tooth and my my stick is it's not going to look right it painted because the rest of the truck is going to look the way it looks not painted so I mean would even really actually be any kind of a rebuilt motor if it ain't painted so all the work we did is negated if it's not painted if it's not painted you didn't do nothing I you're going to thank me later the comments the the comments I did see on previous videos is that you should I should paint it gray instead of Chevy orange oh no I wouldn't painted Chevy orange because obviously by 59 they this would have been Chevy orange but the factory 216 would have been it was like a gray color so paint this the gray color as if it was the factory 216 which I I do agree with I do pain it [Music] great so we're going to put the timing gear cover on now pounded the old seal out pounded the new Rubber seal in the reason well we're actually going to put the oil pan on first but I remembered luckily that there's a piece of cloth in there um you you have to put the timing gear cover on first because these are sneaky there's two bolts that come in from the back that are covered by the oil pan that hold the timing gear cover on so yeah that is a very dangerous thing to get wrong cuz you'd have to take the oil pan all the way back off yeah that's not a good idea that you know they should have just had this plate threaded and put the bolts through this way cuz that is a bad idea wow yeah and they they could have easily threaded this yeah you know just threaded it to where you could catch it on the way in so we're about to put the oil pan on I got all the bolts cleaned off over there on the wire wheel this is a four-piece seal so there's two rubber seals on either end and then there's two court gaskets and then what you do is you put a dab of silicone on each corner where they meet help it seal [Music] [Applause] [Music] better [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] okay so the motor is pretty much assembled and we are going to paint it we're going to paint it uh the 216 color so you can see the color of the head was like Chevy orange cuz this is a 59 or whatever but and we got some of this from O'Reilly's it's pretty similar gray bluish color and we're going to go ahead and paint it I got everything hung up here that's going to be painted black like the fan the harmonic balancer the fan pulley the generator body the starter body the distributor body uh those all get painted black I like it so the first coat isn't going to cover up everything it'll be a little light you'll still see some previous color shining through it when you go on the second and possible third coat that's that's when you lay it on thick cuz you already have a layer to to Really hook to if you try and really blast it the first go around um you'll get a lot of runs in it plus it's kind of cold so like what Dad was saying put that coat on it's like a sticky coat yeah it's like a sticky coat [Applause] oh yeah I like that know I hate way they put on all right so we got the carburetor situation figured out I put the bottom on top of the one I rebuilt and it bolted up to the plate on the intake bolted up to the carburetor just fine everything is good there that means I can use the original fuel line and the uh vacuum advance line from the two 16 comes across it looks Factory it looks good it looks perfect going into the fuel pump going into the vacuum advance and also I had to do well I guess I don't know if you'd consider it modification I had to do some switching around uh this vacuum advance the new one I ordered for the 216 the 235 vacuum advance is different and the 235 Mount is different too so now we have a correct vacuum advance that goes up to the original line so this is the factory correct water pump for the 235 the shaft is so long that when you put the fan up to it it will hit the radiator what you have to do is you either have to get a kit that turns the 235 water pump into a 216 water pump like this but you have to drill two holes in the block and you have to put a mounting plate in and the 216 water pump doesn't flow as much water as the correct 235 water pump anyway so I didn't want to drill two holes in this block and mount an original 216 water pump to it cuz I just didn't want to do that so the way you have to do it is you have to take the correct 235 water pump and press it into the housing to shorten it up so that it doesn't hit the radiator but the second problem you have is now your pulley won't line up if you put the correct water pump pulley on it see how deep it is see how all the pulley line up now if you press this in say 2 in the fan will miss but now your pulley is 2 in deeper into the motor and it's going to hit everything and it's not going to work what I had to do was I did some research online and they said that a Ford like a 60s Ford water pump pulley will match up and it's shallower so my friend Ron shout out to Ron thank you Ron appreciate it he had a 60s Ford uh fan pulley and we had to drill four holes to fit the bolt pattern on um the Chevy is it moving no oh went there it went oh that SC scared me you know I didn't know if it was going to go look at that there we go look at that and to my understanding it has to go almost I mean it goes down there far I I'd be real careful cuz you ain't going to go backwards well you might we still got a ways to go I mean this thing is almost going to be touching that look at that sweet so now the pulley pretty much aligns with the harmonic balancer it's extremely close see how that water pump is hitting right there look at that and the holes that's crazy this is going to have to be ground off for it to fit [Music] [Applause] [Music] that's you rotate it all of your holes they match up we'll be able to put it in now oh no uh-oh crap all right that's a tomorrow thing it's getting late tonight ah crap oh no so I think we are officially ready to take it off the engine stand he [Music] a [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] got it [Music] d okay so it's a week later from my first clutch install attempt and what happened was the clutch wasn't right I only figured that out when I tried to put the pressure plate in none of the bolt holes were lining up I was like what the heck well then I started to actually compare the clutches which I should have done beforehand I don't know what was going on but the clutch was too big and the pressure plate uh bolt holes wouldn't line up with the original flywheel so I had to send it back order another one off a rock auto it's been like a week it got delayed y yada I verifiably confirmed that all the holes line up now right so those are correct uh the flywheel is a weird size uh that's what I didn't know so they sell 10 a lot of them are 10 and 1 12 10 10 1/2 or 11 in this is a 9 and an8 so it's a 9 and an e it's a weird Oddball size clutch I did not know that at the time so now it should fit up in there got the pilot bushing all in that was the hard part really was was the pilot bushing so that that works already done um dad's cleaning out the engine bay a little bit there was dirt like level you couldn't even see that brake line right there and there was dirt all up in the all up in the frame all up on this transmission there's just filth and dirt everywhere yeah yeah all right all right we should be able to pull our little eyelet tool out and have a straight shot all right let's get get all these things out from underneath it sorry all right now come on in all right uh I'd like for the front of the motor to go up but I don't okay it's feels like it's kind of free floating like it's not caught on anything do you want me to push it back try it again jack it up just a hair all right all right see if you can come in all right hold on coming down all right finally after probably a month and a half of working on this engine it is sat in there it's in the motor mount holes it's lining up with the Mount holes got the transmission sucked up against the engine so now it's just a bunch of leg work and grunt work that I probably won't film a whole bunch of because now it's just you know hooking up the oil filter canister to the return line and the pressure feed line hooking up the temperature sender the oil pressure sender for the gauge hooking up all the shifter linkage all the whatnot stuff clocking the distributor correctly putting the wires on all that stuff so probably get with you a little closer to when we're actually going to start it and also now that the engine stand is free we'll pick this bad boy up set it on there turn it over take the pan off and see which Rod was knocking and see what was going on because you know it's such a shame this thing ran like a fraking sewing machine but you know other than that Rod knocking and it was leaking oil everywhere so we're cooking here we got a lot of stuff hooked up we got the fuel line hooked up we got the vacuum advance hooked up all the way down to the fuel pump got the distributor in got the cap on got the points and condenser in that I bought for the 216 uh I did have the 2116 starter on there that I painted so that's the 216 starter the 6volt starter but uh a starter that's 6 volts will run fine on 12 volts but it started giving us problems so I had to switch to the starter I got when I bought this 235 so it's not painted or anything but I'll fix that later um got the coil on it and I have the spark plugs in it cuz I was turning it around trying to find top dead center so I could clock the distributor correctly so I'm pretty sure I got the timing all right now uh we got the generator on we got let's see all the shifting linkage is hooked up all this right here I took this little gear boox apart lubed it up and put it back together took all the old grease out of it so the shifter linkage is all good to go got the fuel temp sender with the adapter put in there because the uh original 216 temp sender was smaller so we had to get an adapter and put in in there got the oil sender hooked up for our oil pressure gauge so what I'm going to do right now is clean up the spark plugs we were using on the 216 cuz they were just fine uh I just bought this I just put this in this is like a this is a spark plug cleaner it's got a little sandbag here it's a vixen spark plug cleaner model number 12 uh Santa Fe Springs California so this is cool I have not used this on the channel yet so I'm kind of kind of excited here oh did I turn the compressor off so this is what we started with and this is what we're ending up with so yeah it works good that's pretty cool so all the spark plugs are cleaned up now looking pretty good before I put them in I would like to turn this motor over and see if we can read oil pressure before we start it um let's just see if we can get there oh yeah oh yeah we got it yes sir that's what I'm talking about we got it well I've crossed my te's and dotted my eyes as best I can I got fuel siphoned to the glass bowl fuel pump that I rebuilt and it the Bowl's filled up and everything it's not leaking um I did hook the exhaust up all the linkages everything's hooked up coils hooked up it's plugged in uh if we give it a little bit of juice you know it should fire off if we did everything right it should go fairly easy but you know how that works so um all right I'm going to do a little Spritz all right go ahead and uh Try It wait yeah yeah it's uh sounds like it you might need to move that distributor a little bit it sound like it was kind of kicking back a little bit Advance it or go back uh probably a little bit sounded like it was kind of banging against it all right hold on let me uh let me get a half inch range it's not even [Music] trying right there okay uh oh wait a minute here this rotor you need the new rotor oh what's wrong with the rotor it was all bent sideway it was bent yeah see the that's missing see this [Music] was told the accelerator I tried to move [Music] it it was all the way down I don't know what happened I told you I'll keep my hand over it but try it again [Music] I don't know why I have no idea why it's doing that because the throttle was completely [Music] closed ready [Music] yeah [Music] now we can't run it long we got no water hooked up we got absolutely nothing in there but there you go running [Music] good like a SE machine sounds good sounds good yeah we had to idle it down quite a bit last bowl working sounds good sounds real good [Music] all right sounds good yeah sounds good we did a good job I'm happy with it yeah we did a real good job I am happy with that well now you just have to put a radiator and fan in it so you can run it a little longer yeah ready y there we go is five baby there may be a hair bit of of upper driv train noise a little but that can all be adjusted now oil pressure [Music] cool all right good runs good I'm happy I'm very happy with that [Music] [Music] that block is it's just full of stuff I'm sure the inside of this looks exactly what that 235 looked like you could probably just reach in there and pull out handfuls of rust very interesting this is kind of cool I've never taken apart one of these so I guess here's your baffle where stuff would come up and uh there's a hole in it and the yeah there's some Sledge in there check out these piston rods they got the Dipper style where they grab the oil check it out that's kind of neat so I guess that's what they mean when they say these are Dipper style Motors cuz as the Pistons are turning this little shark tail looks like a shark fin coming out of the water it's got a hole right here and whenever it comes down it Scoops oil up and it and it Scoops it and it pushes it through where it needs to go so it's kind of interesting guess we'll just start shaking rods huh and they shake a little from side to side but I was expecting something a little more prevalent they're not real tight I mean you can see that shaking see that those little itty bitty brass things those are shims if the babit wears thin you can take the shims out and uh basically it acts like you know you can bring the cap closer to the crank and it it gives you more life from the motor yeah there's still shims in it this does not look super wore out I don't see any copper I don't know it doesn't look awful bad huh this one doesn't look thrashed either you can see the uh copper right here and you can see there's still quite a bit of depth to it and here's a shim yeah there's your shim we got a 235 from a junkyard totally unknown condition rebuilt it completely brand new dad happened to have a head for it from an old truck deal thank dad in the comments that he had this completely rebuilt head because that would have added another I don't even know $1,000 just to show you guys how expensive things are I mean you already know but I said what did I say I wanted to do a poor man's rebuild we use everything we can be as cheap as possible no performance stuff no forged pistons and crazy rods and performance cam and performance this performance that upgraded valve springs none of that I still spent 1,200 bucks on this motor you know so it's just it's just what it is it's just things are expensive out there I only sent two things off to the machine shop not even the whole motor I didn't even have the any surfaces decked or twed up or anything after thinking about it some more uh and wiggling these around you know these shouldn't have any play in them at all and they all have play in them but number four is by far I think the worst so I think number four was the one that was giv us our knock um but the crank and everything doesn't look tore up and uh you saw those shims in there you can take shims out and bring it closer and maybe you could have saved the knock but really the engine really they had this kind of motor in the model T's from the teens and the 20s and cars didn't change much in the 20s and the 30s and the 30s you had the Great Depression everybody was under pressure they weren't coming out with a bunch of new technology in the 30s cars didn't even change their designs from year to year I mean Henry Ford made the Model T for 25 solid years so it's not like today where they have to come out with a new model every single year they didn't come out with a new model of everything every year and then we we went from the Great Depression to World War II where they stopped car production entirely and then you had the late 40s which they had just started reproducing what they had pre-or War II which was the stuff they had in the 30s which was the stuff they had in the 20s even by 1948 1950 what you're looking at here is technology from the 1920s and 30s and only in the ' 50s did they start the Renaissance of technology and upgrading engines and that's when you started seeing a lot of upgrades real upgrades and engine technology Car Technology durability longevity and all that good business so this is when I say Antiquated I mean almost from the dawn of cars Antiquated again Dad and me appreciate you guys every view every minute you watch We're very grateful uh all your guys' views is what helps us to make the money from YouTube to keep doing this stuff so we're very grateful for that and um we will see you guys in the next one

Channel: Theetravisb

Views: 267,678

Keywords: Will it run, Will it run and drive, Fly n drive, Fly and drive, First start, Theetravisb will it run, 1950 Chevy, Abandoned car, Restoration, Motortrend, Roadworthy rescues, Roadkill, First drive, Chevy truck, 1950 Chevy truck, First start in years, Abandoned truck, Will it go round in circles, Abandoned first start, First start in decades

Id: faDdcCT9NtM

Length: 124min 15sec (7455 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 28 2024