Mingda Magician Max - 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

hey guys in this video we're going to be checking out the aminda magician max and i am excited to see what this thing's all about so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints so hopefully you guys enjoyed the video let's get started [Music] all right so hopefully you guys enjoyed that little intro and this is minda's recent printer which is called the magician max it is pretty large and it comes in a pretty low profile box and on the front here we can see the picture of what it looks like on one of the sides we can see the dimension of the box in millimeters and the shipping label says 30 pounds so it is quite heavy so let's go ahead and open it up and this is what we see on top so they are using the hard styrofoam and i think it'll probably be best just to go ahead and dump it out so this is at the bottom let's go ahead and take a peek in there all right so yeah we can see the bottom of the printer and this probably could work out pretty good if we can just flip it around but while we're under here we got six foam feet this cover here is plastic and we got some venting in a few places there so so on the top we do have a cover so i'm not too crazy about this heart foam that they're using because it's getting everywhere there's literally white fluff all over the place but i'm guessing this is somewhat of a cost saving so we got our power cord us type this pull holder is just one piece and it looks like it just clips on and it is all plastic you get a bag of tools and filament bolts sd card covered to something that's interesting and then we got the gantry that's nestled in there which is the upper portion of the printer so let's go ahead and try to pull that out and we can see here we got dual z-axis leads that go up with motors and it is tethered with the belt on the top very cool i like to see that and also another thing that jumps out is this large x-axis frame that's quite beefy and on the front here you guys can see we have our direct drive hot in assembly but yeah we'll go through all the details here in a bit but yeah you guys can see all that foam everywhere so it'll be a pretty good amount of time just cleaning all that up all right so yeah this is our middle foam piece and everything is formed really nice here if only if it wasn't so messy this would be a pretty good packaging here and below that you guys can see we have the base and wow this is a pretty large build plate here so we are at 320 by 320 so yeah quite impressive on the size and we do have a pretty low profile design so looks like this cap here goes right here and it's like a little storage cubby that you can put tools in and whatnot else so right off the bat you guys can see this is everything that it comes with which is not very many pieces and what's interesting is i don't even see a manual anywhere in paper which i don't know if i'm happy about but i guess they're trying to save on materials as most people and myself included would appreciate one now let's go ahead and open up this baggie so we got test filament and a coil don't really like these as they get tangled and kind of hard to use so we get a set of allen edges i like how they're got a holder so they're nicely organized pretty nice open-ended wrench a ten and eight millimeter couple extra parts a nozzle and a ptf aligner for the hot end we get some bolts for installation and a full-size sd card that's completely unmarked i do like that it's full size so since i've put a bunch of these together this is actually not very hard and i'm not even going to look at the manual we're just going to assemble it here but before i do anything i'm going to go ahead and clean up all this foam so we don't have to look at it as we build the printer all right so most of the fluff is vacuumed away and as i was vacuuming underneath i realized maybe we should take this cover off and take a peek of what's underneath now there is a void if broken seal right here on one of the holes so i definitely don't recommend you do it but i'm gonna do it for you guys so we can see what's underneath now there is quite a bit of bolts and they do require a phillips screwdriver all right so yeah i got pretty much all of the bolts or screws loosened and i think what it appears like that these feet right here under the phone might have another screw or bolt going through there because it's not wanting to come out so they made it pretty hard to take it off and sure enough we do have another screw in there so we're finally getting this thing off and there we go overall everything looks pretty good so we got the mains coming right here going to the power supply it is a 360 watts 24 volt so the output that comes from the supply wires are kind of thin actually thinner than the mains which is kind of weird because you'd want these to be thicker from the 24 volt so but they do appear to be adequate our main board over here is not really branded that i can tell and the stepper drivers are all integrated with no heat sinks and i can see the main processor here which is an arm so yeah overall looks pretty good and we've got a ribbon cable coming here to the touch screen and this is our little storage that we saw that had the cover to it so the whole base is plastic and we have some metal reinforcement inside and then this larger wire here is the heated bed but yeah everything looks pretty good nothing unusual under here so i'm gonna go ahead and put the cover back on we'll flip it around and start the assembly all right so before we assemble it there's actually one more thing we need to do and you can do this before or after it doesn't matter it is a little easier to do it before but we need to check our rollers here on the bed so the bed rides on two separate rails here and we got two rollers on each side a total of four and so the ones over here are stationary and the ones on where the screen is are adjustable so if you can maybe see that kind of right in there you see the rollers and the adjustable eccentric nuts so what you want to do is you first want to see if your bed wobbles so mine is actually not wobbling at all which is a good sign pre-adjusted pretty well and you want to put your hand in there and see if you can spin the rollers so if it's spinning and it's quite easy to turn which mine are that means the adjustment is just right and we have no play on the bed at all so it looks like they got mine adjusted perfectly but if you do need to adjust yours you want to get your rollers where they're just barely tight enough around the rail where it doesn't wobble but loose enough we can easily just turn the roller on kind of like a little burnout so and the 10 millimeter wrench that they provide is how you would adjust that eccentric nut to get it closer and farther away from the channel but yeah once you know that's good we can go ahead and start the assembly here which is quite simple and especially on this printer because they have these little brackets here that the gantry just slides into so let's go ahead and lower that down and it literally should just snugly slide right in and so the way this thing mounts is that you have a couple little bolts here and then one large bolt underneath so there is a hole through that plastic where it goes all the way through to the channel so let's grab our hardware and you guys can see we have the two larger bolts so one on each side underneath and then the four medium bolts two on each side of the printer yeah pretty straightforward here guys so on mine they're a little bit hard to get in so i think we need to go ahead and do the bottom one first that way it kind of compresses it down and then these hopefully will line up because there is thread in the channel so let's go ahead and raise it and i got my bolt ready and we'll just go down through the hole there and then into the channel you can feel that it grabbed now we just need to tighten it up and sure enough i can see that it is pulling it in you can go ahead and start these make sure they line up or are lining up hopefully you guys can see that but yeah it looks like they're going in perfectly now and i'm not going to tighten anything yet and the reason for that is we need to do the other side or start the other side and also we need to bring the x-axis down you can do that either by just turning one of the couplers or just grabbing the belt on the top and turning that and you can go a little faster but yeah we want to go all the way down as much as it goes and the reason for that is because we want to space out these two channels where they want to be between the two mounts here so let's go ahead and go to the other side and by the way these foam feet make it a lot easier to move the printer around it still sticks pretty good to the table but when you do want to push it it goes a lot easier but yeah we'll do the same thing here guys start with the bottom okay so it starts to tighten up we'll go ahead and do the small ones and we can go ahead and snug these up but be very careful because they're pretty small bolts and plus we do have a plastic reinforcement here so you don't want to over tighten just when it starts to feel kind of you know snuggy then just let it go and for the bottom we don't have much leverage but you know get it as tight as you can and that should be good and now we just need to go back to the other side and snug all these up all right and believe it or not guys that's pretty much the extent of the assembly on this printer now we do still have the spool holder to put on so looking towards the front we actually have two places we can mount the spool holder and it just slides in and then clicks on so you can either put it on the left side here or the right side it literally just slides right on and clips on and maybe you guys can see a little better here from the back but yeah we have a little clip here that we raise and then it can slide out so yeah as simple as that then when you install it it just clips right in and then our spool will go on here and then the filament will go straight down to the extruder and then out the hot end so for next part let's go ahead and plug everything in so this wire that comes out the side it's actually a pretty nice braided cord it simply just plugs in right here on the side and there's actually a little clip here that it slots into something like that and this controls all of this area here which by the way very nicely organized with wires going to the back we need to plug in our z-axis motors and there's two of them so there's still some foam stuck in there i'm gonna grab the vacuum so yeah we're just gonna simply plug that in and the wires just come right out of the base we have our heated bed here has a pretty nice wire that's thick and nicely made and actually guys i just noticed that there's two bolts that go here to hold it and that was the last two little bolts left the plug plugs in and a couple bolts go on each side uh seems a little bit of an overkill but i do like this kind of overkill because this is actually a function part that moves a lot and the way they got this whole thing strained relieved is quite nice so yeah very nice and robust here on the heated bed cable and if we go to the other side you guys can see we have one more plug right here for the z-axis motor and that's pretty much everything we need to plug in but we're not done quite yet as we do we need to still look at our hot end here okay so again mine is adjusted perfectly so as we talked about earlier the wheels can't be too tight but also loose enough where the whole thing is not wobbling so if you don't have any wobble and you can easily spin your wheels or quite easily on mine you can definitely do that it's actually perfect here so but if you do need to adjust yours the centric nut is under here and you're going to simply you know tighten it or loosen it get closer and farther away from the channel so yeah the whole idea here is to be loose enough where it doesn't wobble and that should give you the best print quality and the best movement here on the channel so yeah we're looking good there and we do have rollers here on the sides so the adjustable ones are on the inside and then stationaries on the outside so these unless they're really off you don't want to mess with it all so mine feel just fine so i'm going to leave them but if you do have to adjust them you can a little bit but we do have dual z axes leads so we have a very very stable movement between both sides up and down and plus we're tethered with the belt on top so yeah that's pretty much it on the assembling it and checking everything well actually not quite yet because we haven't even looked at the belts here so we do have tensioners for the belts and my belt seems to be way too tight on the x-axis here so i'm going to try to loosen it a bit and you have a little knob here okay now i'm way too loose so i'm going to tighten it back up so you want it to be looser than tighter but not too loose where it has slop so i think i like that right there and you do want to check these as you start printing because they could loosen up and the y-axis is definitely too tight we got a knob here for an adjustment because this plate is so big and it's all glass you don't want to make this one too loose but you can play around with you know loosening and tightening and see how that affects your print but yeah that's pretty much it guys and for the next part let's go ahead and take a closer look at it alright guys so this is what the printer looks like sitting here on the table it is quite large and takes up quite a bit of space and actually very tall especially with the spool holder going up so looking here from the back you can see on top this is our spool holder it easily clips out and you can install it on either side just like that so you can pull it out and put it either side you want so this top section here is all molded plastic and we do have a handle here that we pick it up with and our lead screws actually have bearings in there that they roll on on the top which is nice and we have gears here with a belt that connects the two of them together and i really like this design as it keeps the z-axis very consistent on the way up and not only that you don't have any issue of this being at a level because one is off more than the other so it just makes things a lot more simpler and better so going down from there we can see we have very large x-axis channel and yeah i really like that it's quite beefy now one thing i don't really like about the sprinter and the theme is everywhere is that we have a lot of plastic so there's kind of like a plastic mix with metal so they do have a metal plate here on the back which is good and then the rest of it here is plastic which is pretty normal but what's not so normal is over here we have metal on this side but plastic on the other yeah some cost savings there i guess and it is the same on this side also the theme continues as we go down so these are z couplers and the mounting here is plastic but it does mount to the metal channel which the channel itself mounts to the plastic base which is completely all plastic except for that frame that you guys saw that's kind of reinforced into here but the side is plastic and i do have to say it's decently sturdy but not as sturdy as you would think because you can quite easily move it around it does somewhat shake a little bit but i'm not sure you know how good or bad that would be translate it into the print i guess we'll see once we print something really tall but for this size printer i wish they would put some braces so we could see the back of our hot end pretty nice and clean here now what's cool is let's see we got more foam under here but this is our heat block and we have a silicone sock on it and what's awesome about this printer it actually has dual parts cooling fans one over here that's more kind of piped in directly where it needs to go and then another one on this side that just kind of generally goes down yeah lots of parts cooling so hopefully that'll help us out with the print quality and i don't see any kind of bl touch or anything so for out of bed leveling i'm thinking it has a strain sensor in the nozzle so you guys can see our huge bed 320 by 320 very large bed and rides on these two channels i love the strain relief you guys saw we put these two little bolts in there and it does also clip and we've got a nice flexible pretty thick wire that goes into the base very clean design our y-axis motor and it is all sealed so you can't see it but it does look like you can take this cover off here if you wanted to look at your gear make sure it's straight or whatnot else if you're having issues but yeah we can see our belt here and going this way we have the y axis and stop switch the little roller so that's nice the manufacturing label which has the model magician max or print volume of 320 by 320 by 400 tall 350 watt power supply and how to contact the company below that we have the power input socket it is fused with our on and off switch so the very back here is nice and clean nothing going on here so flipping around to the front you guys can see we got the mingle loader here right on the top by the handle smooth channels very nice finish then going down to our direct drive hot end extruder so this is where we're going to feed the filament in this is the release arm for it and you got a little adjuster here make it tighter or looser this whole thing is pretty large kind of like a cover i guess we can see here our ribbon cable that goes around this junction box and then add it there into the printer so on the front cover i went ahead and took out the three little bolts so we can pull it off here that'd be quite interesting to see so we do have the parts cooling fan here one of them you guys can see on the top we do have a filament detector it's one of those mini ones and then we got the extruder here with the motor a junction box with a chip in it that's quite interesting and going down from there we got the heat break as you can see it's that round kind and the heat block with the silicone sulk on it and the heat break fan is actually on the back side which is quite interesting so our x-axis and stop switch is here also with the roller very nice we also can't see our gear over here that the belt goes around but on the other side we have an adjustment here and going down from there you guys can see this little pointing thing and that's actually for the sensor over here so it does have a optical style and stop switch for the z and the bed itself here is again very large we do have a clip here on the front that if we pull off the bed should be able to come out you see it better yeah we got little cutouts where you can pick it up from after you take the clip out but yeah we have a pretty large aluminum heated bed and the glass build plate with the perforated ultra base style coating where when it heats up it really grabs and then when it cools off the prints will just pop off so we need to go ahead and take this protector off because it was underneath the clip and the brackets and the backs so this is semi-translucent you can see through it so you can use this side or you can flip it around and just use the glass on the other side if you want that option let's go ahead and put it back in slides into the back line it up and then our clip here will hold it just like that so speaking about the bed we got the aluminum heated part and underneath you guys probably won't see but it's not insulated and another thing that's quite interesting is the whole frame of the bed is plastic so it does seem to be pretty reinforced and thick yeah i don't think that's going to be an issue at all so on the very front here we have the belt tensioner or the y axis and also not to forget this little cubby here for storage and i went ahead and put our tools in there also guys in this drawer here there is our voltage selection you can access behind this little foam piece and ours is set on 115 and see that there's writing here that says 220 or 110 so yeah if you want to change your voltage or need to change it or even just check it it's right behind this little piece here and actually guys on the other end we have slots here to put sd cards in let's go ahead and try that out yeah i guess it just okay yeah so it just falls right in so you can have a couple sd cards as storage here so going to the front nicely fonted magician max logo over here we can see we got a usb port you can bring in your files with like a thumb drive or you can use the sd card slot which is full size i really like that and you also have a usb type c connection here and earlier you guys saw we had six foam feet underneath the printer and going to the left side we got the touch screen display which is three and a half inches so let's go ahead and peel the protector and that's the way they should all peel very nice but yeah it looks like a pretty good screen and it's tilted about 45 degrees not too much going on on this side and here also so yeah overall pretty interesting looking printer and the overall major thing about this burner it seems like the build volume is you know quite large so so for the next part let's go ahead and power it on preheat it and check make sure everything is working all right so i got the printer plugged in here on the side let's go ahead and hit the power switch and the screen flashed it's booting up and there we go so yeah quick boot up that's nice to see so we're going to take a closer look at the menu here in a second let's go ahead and click on menu we got a home button here so i'm going to click that i guess home everything we're just going to check make sure all of our axes are working all right so it looks like it hold let's go back back again and we'll click on preheat here on the main menu so here we have pla abs and also tpu so i'm going to click on pla let's go back and sure enough it's preheating and i can tell right away guys that the bed is not going to heat up that quick because it's taking it forever it's at 34 right now and it's trying to get to 75 so and it's very slow and there's practically no heat yet and it's been about 30 seconds but in any case while it's preheating let's go ahead and look a little closer at the screen so i had to turn the camera down a lot because the screen is actually very bright which is really nice so just looking at it with my eyes it's very crisp and seems to be more of a higher resolution and also quite bright so yeah really liking the way it's looking also i do appreciate this gray and blue font so this is our main menu on the top there we can see the printer is ready and it's cool that they have all these hot buttons all around so we got the menu preheat nozzle bed leveling and print and these okay yeah those so those are buttons so you can individually set the nozzle on the bed but on preheat you can choose what you want to preheat so a pla abs or tpu okay here you can choose if you want both are just the nozzle or the bed yeah very cool and also there's a settings where you can adjust the parameters of each one so if we want to change the pla we can do that here so this is where you switch it between instead of the 75 seems a little high well actually maybe let's do 65. and we'll click on save and so now it's going to be 65 instead of 75 and you can adjust each one to whatever you want pretty cool i love the versatility so over here we have the leveling button which we'll do in a second and then our print button on the bottom right and if we click on that it's going to ask which slot you want to use the sd card or the usb so i'll probably be using the included sd card but yeah you have a couple choices here and down here we just have a big info that's the last thing that happened which is the settings were stored where we saved but let's click here on menu and we have a lot more things here so we got move you move your axes individually here and the amount let's go back home which when you click it you can home individual axes or the whole thing extruder so you can load unload change the speed of it also pre-heat the nozzle from here and the amount you want extruded percentages is going to adjust the speed of the printer you can increase it and decrease it more settings here the language looks like chinese okay so it's kind of just going through the language how do we get back to the us so here you can turn off the little beep sound so if you don't want it just click it and it'll turn it off but i'll keep it on filament detector turn it on and off here so we're going to leave that on and information about the printer so the board name and the firmware let's go back you can control your fan here and the z-axis offset which we will set after we run the automatic bed level but yeah that's pretty much all the menus and i really like how everything is laid out and how much options you have alright so let's go ahead and level our bed next and one thing i forgot to mention i think is that underneath here we don't have no knobs to adjust it manually so it's preset where it's at and the automatic bed level will just compensate for whatever is you know not correctly leveled let's hit the level button and we can see the printer is setting up for that so i think it is going to use the nozzle let's see what it does okay yeah so sure enough there the nozzle does hit the bed and it has a pressure sensor inside that senses the pressure and then that's what activates it and there's a little light that blinks inside there you guys can't see it from this angle but yeah it is looks like four points for each corner so that'll be a total of 16. all right and looks like it's done so it saved itself in the menu we're pretty much done with that so if you are a little intimidated with leveling and keeping level this printer makes it very simple and easy it literally is pure automatic there's no leveling needed on your part whatsoever let's go ahead and load our filament so i'm just gonna use the silver that i got and we're way up here guys but yeah our spool will go on the spool holder and you do need to feed from the top down because of the direct drive extruder but if we go down so yeah appears our preheat turned off after the automatic bed level and so i had to fire that back up see our filament will literally go down to the extruder here on top and then we're gonna pull on this knob like pull towards you so you're gonna push with your thumb on the bolt and pull with your finger on the tab just like that and that should make the filament go through and if you do need to make it easier just unscrew the bolt now you can completely remove it and that'll expose the dual gear extruder there and so you can see it kind of feeding into the heat break through the extruder and then out the hot end which once it pre-heats we should be able to just push it out oh yeah it's already hot so and not going through that easy for some odd reason maybe they tested this with a higher temperature so let's go ahead bump up the nozzle to 230 to see that will help us sure enough that made it go through so it must have been something different in there than pla but it's pumping out pretty easily now and it's way too hot for sure so let's go ahead and turn that down back to 200. so we just made a huge pile over there in the corner and maybe this filament is actually not good because i can hear all kinds of popping in any case we'll start with this so let's just go with it so i'm going to put this little spring back on so preferably you don't want to you know unscrew this every time you just you know pull on it and push it through very easy to do so so let's get these blobs out of the way here so i just remembered guys that we totally forgot to set the offset on the nozzle so let's go ahead and do that so if we click on menu then z axis offset it looks like it's not automatically going anywhere so we should probably go back and home it home the printer here or better yet it just holds in the corner maybe we should center it here kind of paranoid a little bit all right so it doesn't seem to be responding at all so i'm thinking that i'm just going to zero it back out maybe we should go ahead and start a print and see what happens if it's going to be too high we will just lower it down from there and it'll probably have that option in the menu as we're printing so let's grab the sd card that was included go ahead and plug it in here in the slot and it does go upside down and we'll check out what we have on it click sd and sure enough we do have a couple g codes got some kind of pumpkin monster and a vase so let's go ahead and start with the pumpkin monster and there we go it started so we do have baby step adjustments we can do and we'll see how that goes at least we can see how low we need to go but okay so yeah that's what i was afraid of it did drop quite a bit down okay so it is printing but we're having some kind of weird sounds from the motor like it's skipping okay and it's not the pressure it's just okay now just completely stopped working all right so that was a little weird it was making some noises i didn't realize you guys were out of focus but yeah i was making some kind of noises but then it started printing it doesn't seem to be extruding consistently or at least what i can tell at the moment so i'm not sure but it is pulling it in and everything's fine so the offset was pretty much perfect or at least what i could tell i actually bumped it up here on the baby steps point two but it didn't even need that i don't think so so i guess it automatically knows when it does the level how much to be off the bottom so so yeah there's definitely something wrong and it's not correctly printing so i'm gonna go ahead and stop it i'm going to go ahead and reset the machine because maybe something just went you know hair wire in the software but that's very possible also i'm going to wipe off these fingerprints pretty heavy and we'll power it back on go ahead and pull all this off here that started printing test out the extruder and see if it actually works like it's supposed to so let's go 10 millimeters normal speed the nozzle temperature too low disappeared so we should be able to push them through it's a 185 and it seems to be okay yeah there's definitely something going on here making pretty loud noises and not flowing as it should so trying to figure out what's wrong i went to the wiring first and we have quite a bit of it we got a plug here and then the ribbon cable going here and there's a plug on this side and a plug on this side whenever i was checking this one here i ended up pushing on it and it went in so it somehow kind of unplugged or came out a little bit and that was our issue because i went ahead and tried to extrude and sure enough it's not making any noise at all and it's pulling in the filament and you guys can probably see it coming out there so yeah i guess these things happen it just kind of unplugged a bit which is great because now we can go ahead and try to print all right so let's try this again click on print sd card choose the pumpkin monster again and we'll see if we have better luck this time so it is purging on the side and looks like we do have a purge and there it goes oh yeah it's definitely flowing nice and good now i'm gonna zoom you guys in here looks like a very nice consistent extrusion and the offset is literally perfect so i guess whatever it does automatically it seems to do it just right but you can't adjust it right here where it says baby step so you can go up and down but we're at zero and it's literally perfect so and i'm gonna grab my mic and show you guys how quiet this thing is definitely on the quiet side compared to most burners you can slightly hear the fan noise is what's actually pretty surprising it's very quiet so i definitely like that now i don't think the parts cooling fans are on yet so as far as the heat break and the power supply underneath we're not too loud at all so let's go ahead and check out the screen while we're printing so on the top here we got the file name then we got a big pause and stop buttons around all this here which with those little small fonts there you got x y positions and also z position down here which we're point eight from the bottom we've got a big progress bar we're at zero percent at the moment hiding temperature 200 bed temperature 60 times since we started and then down here we got some function we can change the nozzle and the bed temperature on the fly the speed or the flow baby steps up and down more fan speed and extrusion okay so i guess this is if you're changing your filament i didn't really want to do this okay so we canceled the whole thing but yeah that's everything that's on the menu while you're printing and i like the overall layout so we're printing away and i'm not sure exactly what it is or how long it's gonna take it's still at zero percent but i guess we'll let it print whatever it is apparently a monster that's a pumpkin maybe but i guess we'll see what comes out but overall we are extruding and everything looks good so looking at the back side here at the printer you guys can see how much the couplers move here or the z-axis motors when it's printing and they're both synchronized you can see them both moving back and forth so i think they're moving a little too much in my opinion meaning there's a lot of offset happening it's probably a good idea to look at this channel and maybe measure it i'm gonna have to level it out to the bed a little better because it's not adjustable um all right so we printed out the two models that were included in the sd card a pumpkin and a vase so let's go ahead and look at the pumpkin now this guy i was a little hasty and broke the piece in two but yeah you guys can see it was a messy start there and one of the reasons for that is this filament is actually pretty bad it's like a really old crappy filament and i probably should just throw it away i just don't like throwing away things and i've been trying to dry it and dried but yeah it just prints kind of gummy and there was a lot of stringing funny enough between the feet here so yeah this prints not a very good one to judge for sure but you know it did turn out and it looks decent i guess but then again i don't think it's fair to judge this printer with this filament so yeah at least we got to see what the pumpkin looks like it's actually kind of cute now the other print here is the vase and this turned out much better than the pumpkin and because we didn't slice these files i don't even know what the parameters of them are but the pumpkin print was definitely in a hurry as there is a little bit of ringing so this vase took two hours and 55 minutes yeah almost three hours not too bad let's confirm that and it goes back to the list on the sd card so the bet is not cooled off completely it's at 36 but pretty much cool let's see if this print will come off hopefully i won't break it like the pumpkin yeah it's not coming off very easy i think we are a little bit close to the bed and i should definitely set the offset up a little bit let's see if i can carefully pry it here oh yeah it's pretty stuck can't even really there we go so i think once it cools off it would be definitely much easier to get it off i'm trying to be extra careful with it because it is hollow so yeah right off the bat bed surface sticks really good so i decided to grab a plastic spatula to kind of help us pry this up and not damage the bed itself okay yeah this is seems like working much better [Music] but yeah it's stuck super good it's crazy i think if it would have cooled off completely it might have popped off yeah plus i think i was a little low yeah you guys can see the bottom here super shiny and super nice looking but it is a raft of some sort i think or is it well maybe not because i can't even pull it off how weird is that okay well in any case we'll just leave it on there i think it is supposed to be a raft but it was definitely not sliced correctly it doesn't come off at all it's completely fused to it but yeah as far as the layering goes you guys can see it looks really good all the way up now there is any consistency i don't know if you guys can see it's kind of like lines and i'm not sure what's going on there but you can actually kind of feel them it's not terrible but they are there and our z seam is right here through the middle all the way up and that doesn't even look that bad so yeah overall i would say it's okay now there is a little line here all the way around and that was actually me messing with the gopro so i kind of pushed on the build plate on this end and yeah it caused that line there other than that guys this is what it looks like so yeah it is hollow yeah the layer bonding is great it's really strong i'm pushing it hard it's quite robust so yeah overall not too bad and definitely a pretty reasonable start but i think the best way to judge the prints on this printer would be to slice our own so we're gonna jump to the computer here in a second after we do a quick adjustment here on the x-axis we're gonna move these out of the way and we're gonna lower this down i'm just using the belt on the top i'm gonna go down pretty close to the bed there so the thing is guys is because we can't adjust the bed at all it's preset the way it is and even looking at it i can tell that it's not even so if i measured on this corner we got 24 millimeters from the top of the base to the bottom of this frame piece and the other side is 22 millimeters so we're about two millimeters higher on this side than the other now if we take the frame and measure that to the bed so we got 32 on that side and 34 on the other side which makes perfect sense so we got a bigger gap here than there and you guys can see why that is and when this travels this has to go up the side and then when it goes that way it has to go down so that's why the couplers or the z-axis was moving so much as it was printed and it was printing a pretty small area and they were moving quite a bit so if we measure it from the base up so we got 83 on this side and 84 and a half or so on the other side so we can go up a little bit on here and that will help us kind of level up with the bed a bit since this side's higher and the way we're going to do that i'm going to go ahead and turn the printer off unplug it and we'll flip it around so you guys can see here better and so because we are tethered even if we cut the coupler loose we still won't be able to go up and down separately because we got a belt that goes on the top that syncs them together and turns both sides so what we need to do we loosen one of these gears up here so it's not tethered anymore and now we can spin the lead screw with the coupler while holding the belt and you guys can see it's spinning well maybe you can't see really but it is spinning without the other side spinning also and so now holding the belt up i can go up a little bit with the with this side and i'm gonna go ahead and measure so we're like 85 on this side and 86 at this point on the other side so we do need to go up a little bit so basically what i'm going to try to do is go a little bit higher on this side by one millimeter that should really help it from trying to compensate all right so we got 85 over here and 84 on this side so if we go back to the top we need to spin it very carefully together so i just blend it over so i can see the set screws and tighten these back up so not too tight snug them up a little bit then we'll go back and double check it all right so yeah it's still one millimeter so this side still stayed higher and that's exactly what we wanted so now we're gonna flip back around turn the machine back on and we'll run the bed leveling again so it has to preheat then it'll take the measurements like we did earlier and hopefully our offsets won't be so severe so you guys don't have to do this this is more probably you know advanced kind of adjustment but you know if you want to get it more perfect it was just kind of bothering me that it was moving that little and having to offset so much so i'm hoping this will cut down on the offset when we're printing something you know much larger it won't have to compensate so much all right and looks like it is done we are good to go for our next print so for the next part let's go to the computer and see what's on the sd card all right guys so here we are at the computer and i got the sd card plugged in so let's go ahead and open it up and this is what we see so we got a cura file with some profiles that we can use abs pla and tpu and also if you want to install cura they have an exe file here for windows now kira is available for mac you just download that straight from ultimaker website so if you need to download cura just search for it online so we got a bunch of pdfs it looks like in different languages and this is basically the manual that we didn't get in paper here on the pdf so there might be some things that we might learn especially here on step two you guys can see they already tell us about that little switch behind the foam pad in the storage which i just accidentally found so yeah it's quite important to look at your manual before you do anything so yeah i'm a pretty bad example of that but in any case we did assemble it and got it to run but yeah there's a lot of good information here of how to get started and how to use the printer and also how to slice your own models so here we have the two g codes that we printed out the pumpkin monster and the vase and also we have a pdf of troubleshooting guides so yeah if you got any kind of issues you can go through here and see if it can be helpful now we did have a little bit of trouble and that was just an unplugged cable over here and actually that shows here where all the plugs are so there are literally one two three plugs for this ribbon cable just on the x-axis and ours over here was not plugged in well so so yeah let's go ahead and open up cura so the first thing we need to do is set up the printer so let's add printer and click on non-network printers so we don't really have anything to go off here too much so i like to go off of creality as a base and we'll choose the cr6se because that has the touch leveling and we can rename it to the printer we have so we'll just call it magicianmax so click add set in the parameters we got 320 by 320 by 400. so everything else should be just fine we'll click next and here's our build volume so let's go ahead and throw in a benchy in here and you guys can see how large the build volume is compared to the model there let's zoom in here so we can see a little better what we're looking at so if you click on the model this menu on the left side comes up which you can move the model around or if you just click on it you can move it around the plate also anywhere you want like freestyle or you can put in the millimeters here of how much on each axis we got move scale and rotate are your main options what we're going to be going through today is the parameters here if we click over here you guys can see another whole thing comes out and this is where you're going to set your parameters for all of the different functions so we'll keep the layer height at 0.2 and everything here is good on the shell i like to change the wall count to three the walls look much better and the top layers to five as it helps minimize gaps on the fill gaps everywhere i like to change that to nowhere and by the way if you don't see all these settings if you click on these little dots you just click on advanced and you'll have the same ones as i'm looking at here so going to infill 20 is good actually let's change this to 15 to save some time printing temperature is 200 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed we'll keep the print speed at 50 and the initial layer will turn that down to 15 retractions are on so since we have direct drive extruder let's turn this down from 6.5 to 3 and we can go up and down from here so depending on how much stringing you know might need to go up or actually maybe down so yeah gotta experiment with this some printers do well at around three some do well at like one millimeter or two max but some need you know four or five even on a direct drive so i don't know depends on you know how this one does but usually i'll start around three and see how it does so on the speed turn that to 45 the rest we're going to leave the way it is cooling is also fine so on the build adhesion i do like to use skirt with three lines around the print and then it prints it but if you're having a problem sticking you can use brim and that will just print around the model touching it and giving it more surface area just one layer and raft is what we saw guys in the test models that we got which i normally do not like printing and raft they just it's a waste of time and material and also doesn't look good either so yeah normally skirt straight to the bed should be great and then down here we have spiralize mode and if you click that it's going to print a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all around and you can print things like vases or more simple models that are able to print just one layer all the way around and we're going to print like a spaceship or something and yeah that's pretty much it guys and actually there is one more setting that i like to change that is not here that's only available in expert mode and it's under travel and right here it says retract before outer wall so you want to turn that off because it's going to retract every time it prints an outer wall so that's a lot of extra retraction that you know we don't want so it's going to speed up the print and also make the walls better in my opinion so yeah once you're done setting in all these parameters and you can play around with this you know to see what kind of prints you get you're going to click the slice button here and it's going to slice it for our benchy here it looks like it's going to take one hour and 52 minutes so we can go ahead and save it straight to our sd card as it is plugged in so the cure picks it up but that's saved let's not eject it yet we're going to right click or double click clear build plate and we'll also drag in a calibration cube and slice it exactly the same way and that's only going to take 35 minutes and we'll also save it to the sd card and now we can eject it straight from here so yeah hopefully this was helpful guys a little quick overview here of how to get started with cura all right so our benchy and calibration cube are done yeah they turned out pretty good now the bed is still sticking really good and i had a little bit of a hard time taking the cube off so i did raise it .05 on the baby steps to see if this benchy might come off easier but we'll try that in a second let's go ahead and look at the cube here so yeah if you guys can see we definitely had some ringing x pattern shadows or ghosting i guess is what i'm trying to say and also ringing there's those lines so yeah i'm not sure why the x is ghosting so much maybe i need to loosen this belt more or actually it feels pretty good it's not that tight but i'm almost thinking that maybe i should tighten it a little more because this is so heavy when it moves maybe there's you know not enough tension so so yeah that's what the x looks like but the layers didn't go down really nice now on the y it's even more severe so we got quite a bit of ringing and pretty extreme ghosting you guys can see that y going all the way to the edge there so yeah that's kind of severe and i mean it does have a pretty large glass surface there that's quite heavy and this belt is pretty tight also maybe i'll try to tighten them up a little more maybe that'll help because everything's so large and the belts are quite long and they're the thin belt especially on the y-axis here they probably should have used a thicker belt in any case this is our x-wall so when it's just a wall it does look a little better as you guys can see and our y wall also looks pretty good the bottom and the top so yeah overall not too bad except for you know the little bit of ringing and quite a bit of ghosting on the y so let's try to remove this benchy it's still stuck on there the bed is completely cold and yeah i was afraid that it wasn't gonna come off it's not coming off easy so this coating here is sticking a little too well and normally that's not the case but i guess it's brand new and it's really sticky so let's go ahead and see if we can give a little more pressure here all right so it did come off it just pops off and this curt here comes off pretty easy it just has that initial really good stickiness that if you have a large surface area would be a little bit challenging to get off and looking at the bench up close i think we do have a small elephant foot so we might be too close to the bed so i need to raise it quite a bit more and that might help us quite a bit because if we look at the bottom you guys can see it's pretty nice and flat and these kind of beds do produce a really nice looking bottom all right so let's start with the side it looks decent we do have ghosting and quite a bit of ghosting on this one here yeah this is actually the x so yeah even the x is ghosting quite a bit which is quite interesting the obvious here is a lot of stringing and at three millimeters either that's not enough or maybe we're too high so so yeah we got a few things to work out here on this benchy not terrible but not great also but in any case i think we need to print out more models also i'm gonna try some tpu as this is a direct drive and i definitely want to try out the spiralized mode and print something large to the top wow oh all right so these are all the prints that we printed and i do have to say overall it was a pretty good experience using the magician max some things i really liked about this machine and then others not so much which we'll talk about so we've seen the two prints that came with the printer we also saw the calibration cube and the benchy so i do have two more pinches so let's go ahead and start with that so i wanted to print another one because i felt like the first one didn't turn out as well and i wanted to turn up the retractions to four millimeters and you guys can see got a little better with the stringing but still stringy so it does look a bit better on the walls there there is still some ringing and ghosting but overall pretty solid print i would say just the stringiness really makes it look not as good as it could but overall the printer is pretty accurate and prints very well and so this one turned out a little better now this benchy here is actually printed in tpu and you guys can see it actually looks pretty good now we do have stringing again and this is actually a five millimeter retraction so yeah i definitely have stringing issues with this printer and i don't know if i should be going higher than five on a direct drive probably not but yeah i did experience stringing pretty much on all the prints but for tpu here you guys can see it did very well and if we look at the walls here very nice and yeah very accurate with layer bonding and looks great again except for the string we do have ringing and ghosting still present really hard to see on this yellow but yeah i could never get rid of that even though i tried to adjust the belts but yeah very capable with tpu and you guys can see here that this is tpu so yeah pretty cool here we have a little frog and at this print is pretty detailed and fine you guys can see here on these little paws but on this print i actually decided to try retraction at two millimeters and it seems to be not too bad there was still string in between the eyes that i kind of broke but yeah i'm not sure if two millimeters better or not but this is what came out so the layers are sitting really nice and you guys can see by the reflections and overall it turned out great we've got nothing weird so good cooling this is a color changing filament so you could vary a little bit in color but yeah we got the z seam on the back and overall the layers are sitting nicely so that's the little frog so the next print we got here is a gear and this is actually a functional print all these pieces are actually printed separately and this should spin like a bearing and you guys can probably see it does there was stringing all in between these gears and so i did use a wrench and i put it in there and i just kind of spun it and it ate up all the stringing and it still functions and it's actually really accurate because there's nothing weird it's pretty smooth overall as far as you know nothing's oval or not round and this will show you right away that you know if something's not round it would be kind of like really easy and then kind of hard to turn so yeah very consistent and so it did very well with accuracy but then again we did have stringing so yeah if you do need to print functionally mechanical parts this printer can do it very well so here we have the astronaut and his buddy here which is the squirtle and this part turned out okay but you can really see the ringing in this one and you guys can see those lines throughout the print there they're pretty pronounced and this is also color changing filament so it was darker and then it got lighter but yeah you guys can see the ringing and ghosting is pretty severe so yeah that bed is quite heavy and for whatever reason we're having quite a bit of a ringing and the bottoms are all great on all the prints and that's because of the textured style of this build plate so here we have the astronaut and two spaceships so let's go ahead and look at this little one and this one here was actually printed in tpu spiralized mode so spiralized mode is about four layers on the bottom and then the rest of the way is just one layer on the perimeter all the way up this print here shows that there's definitely an issue in spiralized mode and this is actually pretty normal with the latest printers just the way they run on the software because of power loss recovery they ran out of bandwidth as the z-axis keeps going up it has to remember each time it moves up the location of it and that fills up the buffer really quick and basically puts a load and the extruder doesn't extrude consistently so and you guys can see we got gaps and all kinds of stuff but what's cool is because this is tpu it's very flexible so we can really bend this thing and it's going to come back so yeah spiralize mode doesn't work well on this printer unless you can disable the power loss resume function which should print normally in spiralized mode but most people are not going to print this mode this is kind of an experimental mode but i use it a lot because it doesn't take much time to print something large and tall especially like this spaceship here and before we look at that let's go ahead and look at the astronaut he's actually still stuck to the build plate let's see how easy it comes off and sure enough it did not yeah i actually broke him in half or where his feet are and that's actually one of the negative things about this specific plate here even though it's great that it sticks whole well it's very hard to get it off so i end up having to pry the bottles off with something which is not too hard as you guys saw there i just used a piece of paper so i don't scratch the bed and pry in a little groove there not easily it actually but still pieces stuck to it but yeah that's been my experience with this bed has been sticking way too good and i definitely have a good gap all right so let's look at this thing it didn't turn out as good as i hoped for because there's some kind of weird like residue all over it like it was printing but it was making these little blobs everywhere they do just pop right off but for some reason they're all over the print literally just like all over which i thought was a little weird and also we had terrible cooling which is also a little weird i'm not sure what happened there but this print in particular just didn't do so well you guys can see the layers do sit pretty nice like here on the helmet they're very consistent overall so yeah i'm not sure exactly what happened here but this is the print we got with the astronaut so yeah so the spaceship is for the astronaut but this is not really a spaceship it's kind of like a plane ship i guess or it's like a plane slash spaceship it is a pretty cool print and it's also printed in spiralized mode which is just a few layers on the bottom then all the way up and by the way all the prints were printed in 0.2 layer height around 200 on the nozzle 60 on the bed except for tpu that was printed a little hotter and also slower at around 35 to 40 millimeters a second which the rest of the models were at 50. but yeah this is the full height of what this printer can print this is 400 millimeters from the bed to the top of here and if we look at it here on the bottom especially you guys can see it looks really good so the layers are bonding very even and very consistent so yeah this plane chip actually turned out really nice in the beginning now the bottom doesn't look great everywhere but it did stick and then popped off not too hard believe it or not so i didn't break the model which is nice now as we do continue to go up we kind of see some weird stuff going on here this is where the buffer started to fill up and the printer was freezing the extruder momentarily and causing this kind of print we were still able to keep going and it kind of cleared up here so i noticed if there's more surface area to print it doesn't freeze up as fast as when it gets smaller this is why our smaller spaceship was so bad because it's so tiny and it has to constantly go up really fast when it goes up slower it actually does better and i'm thinking maybe if you turn down the speed it might actually do better but you guys can see here we got ringing or ghosting yeah overall the layers are actually very even and you can see by the reflection they were pretty good until they got about right here so about 350 millimeters up we started to get a little bit of movement in the gantry here and it wasn't as consistent and also we started under extruding quite bad also pretty severely here you guys can see it doesn't look great and the very tippy top or the point also kind of melted away so but yeah other than that i mean it does look pretty nice even in this condition here and overall i feel like it didn't pretty darn good except for the pausing on the extruder and so for the last print that's probably very obvious is this giant octopus that's sitting on top of the x-axis so this thing was huge it literally printed the whole bed well almost the whole bed it was actually 3 15 on x and y so yeah we literally utilize the whole platform and i have to say the outer bed leveling did very well because there was no inconsistencies from one end to the other side of the bed as the nozzle traveled i was pretty impressed with that and you're probably wondering how i got that thing off the bed as it was pretty large and it didn't want to come off not as bad as this astronaut that we just saw but it still struggled i was able to break a few tentacles loose but overall it's still stuck so what i did is and this is a pretty cool trick if you do have trouble if you put it in the freezer for about 10-15 minutes everything will freeze really good and the model should just pop off and that's exactly how i got this octopus off i just put it in the freezer for about 15 minutes and literally just pop it off but yeah let's go ahead and look at this thing so it's very large and you guys can see all the legs printed very well now there is some stringing here and there but yeah we had no failure whatsoever everything printed from all the separate pieces and then they all connect kind of in these links yeah it did take about 33 hours to print this as there is a lot of retraction and moving around from side to side so and you guys maybe can see how large the distance is between the legs yeah overall the finish is very nice we do have a little blobbing but it just pops right off so yeah this can be cleaned up really nice and would look really good but if we look up close here on the head the layers went down really good there's a little bit of lines but overall very smooth and looks great and around the eyes there we do have a little bit of ringing but ever so slightly again not bad at all and even on the top here it looks great so yeah very happy with how this thing turned out a little showpiece for anybody want to see what 3d printers can do let's see if we can sit him back up here but overall i think you know the printer does what it's made to do which is print pretty large models and we did print the octopus here in the spaceship so except for sticking too well to the bed and having some ringing also especially in the y-axis the prints did turn out pretty well the stringing was somewhat of a problem and i couldn't really get rid of it and also because this is so tall i don't like how there's no bracing going to the top so it is pretty wobbly but there are quite a few things to like about this printer which the obvious is the build volume of 320 by 320 by 400 which is great for those larger projects one thing that really stands out is that there's no leveling for the bed and that's a really big plus if you don't want to mess with that and let the printer take care of it so if you are intimidated by bed leveling this thing will take that away completely and all you have to do is just adjust the baby step up and down and you're good to go i like how this printer has dual z axes with the belt that's tethered the direct drive hot end here is built very well overall we do have dual gear extruders and filament detection right in there i like this large x-axis channel adjustable belt on x and y the printer is overall very quiet and that's with the silent steppers but also the fans on this printer are definitely much quieter than most i do like the full-size sd card and also i really like the screen it's easy to use and definitely a highlight of this printer so yeah overall i think this is a pretty good printer if you are looking for everything that it has to offer and if i had to summarize it overall for the weak points i would say it's kind of plasticky and all of its construction but the best part about it is that it's just easy to use so if you are someone that's just getting started this might be a pretty good choice for you and i hope this video had enough information for you to make that decision so if you guys are interested in this thing i'm gonna have some links in the description check it out and if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button if you want to see more videos like this stay tuned i got a lot more 3d printing stuff coming up and also check out my 3d printing playlist i'm sure you'll find something interesting there and if you made it this far thumbs up to you and as always thanks for watching and i'll catch you in the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 6,045

Keywords: 3d printing, 3d printer, best 3d printer, 3d printers for beginners, mingda 3d printer, fdm 3d printer, mingda 3d, mingda magician, 3d printer time lapse, 3d printer review, 3d print, mingda magician 3d printer, 3d printing for beginners, large 3d printer, 3d printer filament, 3d printing time lapse, mingda magician max review, Mingda magician, mingda magician max, magician max 3d printer, budget 3d printer

Id: 9a6CebNZAug

Length: 60min 19sec (3619 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 01 2022