Tevoup Hydra - 3D Printer + Laser - Unbox & Setup

hey guys in this video we're going to be checking out a two-in-one 3d printer by a company called tiva and what makes the hydro model unique is the interchangeable tool heads from 3d printing to a laser so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up burn some things and do some prints so hopefully you guys enjoyed the video let's get started [Music] [Music] all right so yeah this is the box that the hydra comes in we can see here a picture of what the printer looks like and here are one of the sides we've got some more information the build volume which is 310 by 310 by 400 very nice layer resolution supported filaments up to 280c get a 0.4 nozzle product dimensions in millimeters and inches on the shipping label it says 14 kilograms which is about 30 pounds so let's go ahead and open it up so as we open it we can see we got black soft phone and this is what we see right on top we got the manual and it's a book which is really nice seems to be laid out pretty well everything that's included all the technical parameters and the assembly process which should be very simple we're just going to connect the gantry to the base so yeah it looks like a really good manual very nicely laid out and shouldn't be too hard to get going so first thing that really stands out are these heads so we got the laser and it looks like there's a piece to it that we need to install well actually it looks magnetic let's see okay yeah it is magnetic oh very cool so yeah this is the laser looks like we got a little protector there over the lens i'm not too sure what the power rating of this thing is but i think it's in the manual we just need to look it up but yeah very nicely made this is all metal and you guys can see the laser modules encased inside very cool little logo here up front and then we got this cap that just clips over and magnetizes and on the back we have a connection which is made out of aluminum very nice high quality parts here and here we can see the connectors and they do give you a little warning they're saying make sure the power's off before you change the module so yeah very cool so our print head will have the similar kind of back with the quick disconnect we do have a dual gear drive extruder very nice this is our heat brake it's the round style and then the heat block below that with a silicone sock and man that's a tiny little hole for the nozzle so over here we have the heat brake cooling fan that blows onto here and then going here we can see the logo very cool and again this is an aluminum little cover here intruder motor and below that the parts cooling fan which is the large one and we have a 3d printed deck that blows over the nozzle and it's a little bit higher and blows more towards here so i guess we'll see how well the cooling is but overall very nice piece nicely built and feels really high quality all right so now that we got that out of the way let's go ahead and see what else we got here we have a couple parts that look like to be part of frame of a spool holder safety glasses and this is for the laser keep your eyes safe we got a pouch here of all kinds of stuff and we'll go through this here in a second guys a little coil of filament not too crazy about this it is in white pla and then something to get you started a usb cable to connect from the printer to the computer a spatula that's not sharpened our power cable us type and does not look that long but yeah that's all the pieces here on top all right so here we have a little wood plank i'm guessing this is probably to do some laser burning so they do include a little thin piece of wood that you can practice on and for the last part looks like we have an extra ribbon cable that's probably a spare all right so we got the gantry on top of the base and you guys can see everything is packed very well even though the box is pretty small for this size printer all right so here we have the upper portion of the printer which is the gantry and you guys can see connector plate where the tools will be interchanged so it looks like our belt is loose so we're going to need to do some adjustments here no big deal and if we flip it around we got dual z axes really nice but what's even nicer is that they are tethered here on the top with this belt but yeah we'll take a closer look at everything a little bit later in the video all right so here we have a appears to be a steel sheet that's quite thin and it is the size of the build plate so i'm wondering if this is for using to cover the build plate to protect it from when you're using the laser and that'll probably be my guess it would make sense and this is a coating here that does peel and you got like a nice finish there so all right so we're finally at the bottom and we got the base here it is pretty large and quite heavy and yeah the first thing that really stands out is the design very interesting looking and quite modern and what's really impressive is this shell here is one piece metal so again we're going to take a closer look at everything a little bit later let's go ahead and get this out of the way and that's everything for the box all right so i got the base flipped around and before we start assembling i want to go ahead and take this cover off looks like it does come off here with about eight little bolts so let's go ahead and grab this little bag and see what's inside so we do have some tools allen wrenches zip ties clean out needle and an open-ended wrench some clips looks like to hold the sheet and glue stick four pretty large bolts and these are for connecting the gantry to the base uh looks like a bunch of spare parts like bearings and bolts t-nuts just things like that also spare parts three roller wheels and a nozzle 0.4 size and in this baggie we have a filament detector and a usb thumb drive that has the tivo up logo on it and for the last part we got a large allen wrench and yeah pretty cool that they include a little bag pull all the stuff in so let's grab the wrench that we need and take out these eight bolts well guys there's actually 10 bolts here and now this should just come right off let's see okay and we do have a pretty large fan connected to it just gonna set it here just like that and yeah wow this is a very nice clean design very impressed with how everything is routed and neatly organized so let's start here with the main board you guys can see we have a makerbase mks robin nano version 3.0 we do have removable stepper drivers go ahead and pull one off you can't really make out the model number but i did see it says germany on them so yeah look like really nice high quality parts and they are heatsinked very cool got a pretty interesting chip there maybe wi-fi our usb cables running from the board to the port and there's like this film foil that runs from there to here which is quite interesting so you guys can see the wires are all organized very nicely so that's our touch screen and going this way i like the attention to detail with all this covers here around the wires looks like another junction there and then these wires lead to the power supply which is not very large and the reason for that is because we have an ac heated bed so that is a solid state relay that takes the mains power and sends it to the bed which is really awesome because this build plate of this size should heat up relatively quick but the power supply is a 240 watt 24 volt and yeah again wires are all very nicely organized so this is our mains input here we do have an on and off switch and it is used our y-axis motor and also guys if you can see here we have bracing on the inside that's kind of like a box that gives this thing even more rigidity even though the whole base is completely metal so yeah lots of high quality and great design for strength and just very well put together so let's go ahead and put this lid back on and you guys can see we've got a couple cutouts here and this is where our bolts will go through to connect the gantry and we also do have five little rubber feet that the printer sits on all right so i'm gonna put this thing back and we'll flip it around and start the assembly so for the next part what i like to do is go ahead and look at the bed the rollers underneath and you know check if it's loose or not because it is a little bit easier to do it now than later when you have the gantry on and you know it's kind of harder to move it around but you guys can see we got three rollers here on one side and three on the other and what's interesting about this printer flip it to the other side is that they are all adjustable so they all have eccentric nuts now what i like to do is stick my fingers under there so just kind of hold the bed and try to spin the rollers kind of deep in there you might not be able to reach it that easy but so on mine here these two are good and the one here up front completely loose so the whole point is is you want to squeeze around the channel just slightly on all the rollers so as loose as possible without being wobbly and our bed is practically not wobbly but we do need to tighten up the front wheel and we're going to use the included open-ended wrench it's a little hard to see and even get to but yeah we're just going to spin the eccentric nut just a little bit try to tighten it up to get closer to the rail and same thing on the other side all right so i think i'm getting somewhere here front wheels are touching and my other wheels all seem to be okay so yeah that feels pretty good right there and so you can run it back and forth to see make sure you're pretty good and smooth so if you feel something really you know sticking or grabbing then you know keep on adjusting and checking everything all right so let's go ahead and look at the manual here so the first thing we're going to do is install the gantry which should be pretty simple four long bolts that go underneath through the base and you guys can see here there's an opening here and on the other side now there is a connection here to the ribbon cable that we'll have to connect so yeah we'll have to be careful with that so let's go ahead and put the upper portion of the printer onto the base and it should just line up and fall in and there it goes so once it falls in it kind of holds itself somewhat we'll need these long bolts and they do come with lock washers so put them in there let's grab the wrench we need for these bolts and what you can do is just lift it with your hand or maybe you know put something underneath the printer so that would be enough to start them but it would be a little hard to get the wrench under there so we need to go higher or maybe this way would be easier yeah or you can just go off the side of the table they'll probably be even easier so however you got to do this and as we talked about guys earlier there is a ribbon cable here that goes down so be careful with that that will plug in into that slot there so we're not going to tighten this yet because we do need to start the other side also just run them down and the same thing here so if your x axis is all the way down like minus you can go ahead and tighten these so snug them up pretty good as these are the only bolts that hold the whole upper portion and the reason i was saying the x-axis needs to be all the way down is because we want the separation between the two rails to be exactly where it needs to be on the bottom here so yeah if you're not all the way down just run it down by moving the belt on the top all right so now we're going to tighten the other side and that should be good so for next part of the manual they actually want us to install the hot end assembly then connect all the cables adjust the rollers on the bed which we did already and then the other rollers which we'll go through adjust the tensions on the belt and then install the spool holder and this bag of hardware here that has quite a few things what appears to be part of the spool holder that we have to put together and for the last part we're going to plug in the cable here which will probably do that when we're connecting everything else so so yeah i'm just going to go through the printer we're going to go through everything check everything and connect everything as it needs to be and so since we are looking here at the back let's go ahead and connect these cables so over here we got the z motor connections coming out of the base we can move the plate up so it's easier to get to yeah so we're just going to plug that in pretty simple this cable here that's kind of sticking out from the back actually goes to this plug on top of the base now we do have this ribbon cable that we need to connect also so you want to be really careful with that and you guys can probably see the connectors on the other end so be really careful not to damage those because if you do you will not get a good connection and it's very easy to mess this thing up be very very careful with this so yeah i'm just going to line it up here i think that went down and that should be good and we'll try to tuck this wire here where it looks a little better so it should be good there so it does run underneath here and then go up and the other end is actually also unplugged yeah it plugs in right up here there is some tape we need to peel off here to release it go ahead and expose these connectors and so on this connector we do have a little locker see if we can zoom into it a little bit so you guys can see there's like this little black piece that you gotta lift up and then when you push it down it locks it in i'm gonna hold it up and then insert my cable and just kind of drop in there and then to lock it in we're just gonna push down on these tabs here on each side make sure you push on both sides because when you push on one the other one comes up and that's it that should lock it in and that should be good right there again be really careful with this as you don't wanna you know mess it up and have to use your extra cable all right so we plugged this in the motor in here in the back the ribbon cables plugged in let's go ahead and go to the other motor and we'll plug that in and by the way for some reason all my motors are loose same thing for this side i'm not sure if that's on purpose but i'm thinking it's not supposed to be like that so and the bolts that do hold it down are phillips so you will need a phillips screwdriver and there we go now they're not bouncing around maybe they just came loose from shipping same thing on this side all right now our motors are nice and solid so we are pretty much done plugging everything in here on the bottom there is one more plug on the top and you guys can see it right here and this is going to be for the filament detector this guy here that will melt on the spool holder once we build it so let's go ahead and do that so the spill holder is not hard to put together it's actually quite simple we just got a washer or bearing and then a nut and also install our filament detector so let's grab our hardware there's quite a bit so put it somewhere we're not going to lose everything so let's just start with this one here you guys can see there's a couple threats coming out on each side and this is where first we're going to put a brass washer and then a bearing and then we're going to lock it all in with this self locking nut and the opening and wrench the smaller size you can tighten it up with but if you do have some tools like a socket probably a lot easier to do this so don't tighten this hard just a little bit snug and that should be good make sure your rollers nice and rolly same thing for the other side all right so that looks good on both sides so let's go ahead and grab our detector and this is what it looks like so it does have to flow the right way and i'm thinking it probably goes like this as this pool will sit here and then feed down so i'm just going to go with that and we can change it later if we need to and you do want to leave this loose so there's a little tiny nut that goes on that thread and there's actually two of them where you kind of lock them together so the detector is loose enough to move around but not fall out so now you will have to use your own tools to try to tighten these up because they're pretty tiny that looks pretty good right there so one half here is built and for this side it's pretty much just putting the wheels on so i'm going to go ahead and do that and then we'll mount it on the top and so looking at the back side of the printer all the way here on top the spool holder should mount like this so we're going to mount it to the back side if you do want to center it up there's actually this trim piece that's in the way and i'm not sure why it's so long but we can trim it to what we needed and put it back in and so these pieces here are going to go to the inside like this and we do have a bolt and a t-nut that we're going to install here on the bracket two of them actually just like that and so wherever the center is gonna be we're gonna insert the t-nuts into the grooves of the channel and then we're just gonna turn the bolt and lock it in and so the t-nut as you tightening it should turn and then lock into the channel so if it doesn't just unscrew it and then screw it back in and it should do it this does sit right on top of the frame so it should light up pretty good we'll do the same thing to this other bracket all right well we got them installed but we need to make sure that our spacing is correct so we're going to grab a full-size spool and as you guys can see i'm not even close so we got to bring it together and plus i'm not centered right now so this one here probably need to come over quite a bit and i'll go ahead and adjust it here on the fly so the bad thing about this is that you know if the spools are different sizes or different widths you'd have to you know adjust this and also another not so great thing maybe is that if you have like broken spool or a spool that can't roll and would rather do this you know this won't work either but for you know most cases this would work so yeah our spool is on and it's rolling around just fine and these are thin enough where you can bend them around if you need to just a little bit you know if it's not lighting up perfectly so now we just need to figure out how long this little trim piece needs to be probably about to here and i'm just going to snip it off here make it a little shorter that way we can still hold our wire in there nicely but it can come out and go on the other side here and i'm not going to write it underneath because if our x-axis comes up it's going to be able to snag on it maybe so i'm going to run it towards the top so the whole thing here is is that you want to keep it away from the belt and i'm going to use this other piece that was the leftover so hold it on top and then we can flip around to the front and maybe you guys can see this wire will plug straight into the filament detector yeah that looks pretty good so our filament is literally going to go from the top and then down through the filament detector just like that and then into the hot end extruder all right so now that we did all that let's go ahead and do something a little more fun and install one of these tool heads onto the dolly here so there's a bolt here that keeps the head from coming off and also there is a sticker here that we need to peel but yeah all these connections are just going to connect to each other and we should be able to just slide it in and sure enough there it goes okay so the bolt actually goes through the back and so that kind of clamps it down and now it's not going anywhere very cool so we do still need to adjust the belt and actually check all of our rollers here on the hot end and the sides and so looking at the back let's go ahead and check our rollers so my printer here is adjusted perfectly but yeah you guys can see i'm just spinning the rollers in one spot and they spin pretty easy and it should feel smooth i got some funny things going on because the belt still needs to be tightened so we'll do that here in a second but if you do need to adjust the eccentric nut let's go ahead and raise this up a bit and i'm just moving the belt on the top to go up and down but yeah you'll just adjust it from here tighter or looser and get it just right where the wheel can just spin in one spot like a little burnout so yeah that looks good here now on these they're not super critical unless they're just really binding on mine they're actually perfect and they're all spinning and touching which is quite interesting and not always the case but yeah if you do need to adjust them the eccentric nuts are on the inside we do have dual z axes so everything is really stable and so if these are not perfect it's not that big of a deal because they move so little it's not going to wear things out and sometimes you just can't get these right no matter what you do so if you got them close and nothing's really binding or really off then you should be fine so let's go back to the front on this side here we can see we got the belt tensioner or idler pulley and our belt is completely loose so we need to tighten that up and in order to do that you guys probably won't be able to see but there are two bolts here that hold this bracket with the pulley on it so we just need to loosen them and then this bracket here will be free you can see it just rides on that channel and so what we're going to do is we're just going to pull on it just a little bit to get some tension and then we'll tighten one bolt to see what it looks like so it does look really good right there and the belt is reasonably tight so you don't want to over tighten the belts just slightly slightly some tension but not crazy tight so since everything's good we'll go lock in the other one and that's it good with the adjustment here the only other thing you might want to look at is the belt here which is on the y axis and there's a pulley right here and then on the other end we have the motor you guys won't be able to see this but the way you adjust the belt is the motor itself and you can do that from underneath so if you do need to adjust it there's a couple bolts you loosen and then you move the motor back and forth to put the tension on the belt on my printer it's just the right tightness so i'm going to leave it just the way it is and yeah the bed feels pretty good overall and quite smooth so i believe that is everything with the assembly so yeah not too hard guys there is a little bit of involvement here a little bit of assembly for the spool holder the ribbon cable is a little fragile so be very careful with that and overall just go around the printer check all the bolts and all the rollers and whatnot else just to make sure everything is buttoned up nice and tight so i am pretty excited to power this thing on but before we do that let's take a closer look at all the details all right so this is what the printer looks like just sitting on the desk it is quite large and very tall with the spool holder and a spool on top of it so yeah just keep that in mind that you will need the space for it all right so starting here on top you guys can see how this pull holder holds the spool not my favorite kind of spool holder i guess but it does work and i do like that it rolls on bearings which makes it very smooth and here we can see our filament detector that kind of swivels back and forth it seems to line up just right with the filament flipping the printer to the back side we can see here what it looks on the back folder mounted on these four bolts you guys can see the covers and then another little over here to hold the wire goes to the detector yeah it turned out very nice and clean so this is our synchronization belt between the two leads everything is metal very nice with bearings for the leads going down from there i like the construction of everything it's all metal and we have a brass bushing but this piece here the spacer is actually 3d printed which is fine because it doesn't really do much but we do have little bolts there that go into the print so going down from there we can see we got the coupler here with the motor and then the connection does use a plastic bracket which we did have to tighten those little bolts on top stop the motor from moving around we can see our plugs that we plugged in one down here then the motor and then the ribbon cable on the front side now what's awesome is we get really large rails for the y and the x very nice and impressive to see that you guys can see that's the y motor and it does move back and forth to tighten the belt and you loosen two bolts underneath to do that going back here to the top on our hot end this bolt here locks in the tool head and it's a little bit hard to get to as it's kind of like doesn't have much grip i wish it was a little longer maybe so you could reach it better but not too bad so our rollers here nicely adjusted going down you can see this really cool design on the base we've got these cutouts very interesting and very unique looking so going all the way down you guys can see we got a pretty thin profile very impressive for how large this printer is and again i love this looks like cast maybe because i don't know how they do all these corners all in one piece because the whole thing is pretty nice looking so it's probably stamped but in any case it's very nicely designed with very clean construction because it's all one piece but yeah here we have the input port for the power cable it is fused with an on and off switch and from the back we got a cable that comes out and goes to the bed now i can't really tell if it's trained relief or not but there's some kind of glue around it or rubber but it seems like somewhat it is and you guys can see that our bed is insulated which is great so let's go back to the front in this corner here we can see there's a nice little accent and the theme of the printer is like an orange so yeah it looks really nice so we got a junction box behind there it's our x-axis motor and yeah everything nicely organized and our ribbon cable does come from here all around to the hot end and the other side plugs out of the junction box loops around and goes down and this is where we plugged it in so yeah on top here we can see the dual gear drive extruder so we already kind of looked at this earlier but yeah very nicely designed i love this little cover here with the tivo up logo our heat break fan here with the haran style heat brake keyblock yeah everything seems to be nicely built and put together we also have a very large parts cooling fan that blows under the nozzle and also guys we do have a clear looks like bl touch style leveling sensor there and you can see the probe coming out we got a very large volume of 305 by 305 and 400 millimeters tall there's a sticker here on top that kind of tells us about how to install the ribbon cable like we did earlier so yeah make sure you pay attention to that but we do have a protector here over the bed let's go ahead and peel that so the bed itself is a perforated kind of finish when the bed is hot the models stick and when it cools off they should just pop right out so we'll see how well that works and going down we saw that it is insulated and what's great it's all the way to the edges which is going to do really nice and preheating our build platform quickly and this is an ac bed guys and that's that little orange rubber that you see there that's the heating element so the frame does appear to be pretty good quality and we get these nice little orange knobs to adjust the bed there's some numbers on them and nice quality yellow springs and on the front we got the a logo here and the screen which has a protector let's go ahead and peel that that came off pretty easy the screen is not too large 2.8 inch but you know it should be good enough to navigate the printer on the right side we've got micro sd card input port usb port for the thumb drive and another port to connect to your computer from the printer with the cable that came with it and on this side here it's pretty clean nothing going on too much here and also our laser head attachment will also tray out once we get it all going and printing so yeah overall a very interesting and unique looking printer i do love the design of it it's quite unique looking and very futuristic so for the next part let's go ahead and power it on home the printer preheat it and level the bed all right so i got the printer plugged in let's go ahead and power on and i got you guys looking from the top down hopefully you'll be able to see the screen there all right so i beeped and the screen is lighting up got the logo there and there it goes so i got pretty bright lights in here right now and the screen is a little bit brighter than it actually looks but to be honest it is more on the dimmer side and if you guys can see the language is actually set to chinese maybe let's see if we can't figure out how to change that to english so let's click on this settings button okay so i'm thinking this is it here so yeah these are all the available languages we just need to click english and then back and now we can read everything so yeah and the main menu here we've got tools settings and printing and then our nozzle and bed temperature on the bottom if we click on tools we're going to get preheat extrusion move home leveling filament and more let's click on more it says g-code that's interesting i guess you can have a specific g-code for whatever reason so yeah let's go ahead and hit preheat and they do have abs pla here so let's click on pla so let's see how do you get this thing going i see it says oh okay so it appears if you click on the abs button here that does not look like a button it actually starts preheating or pla so it goes to 200 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed so and this is where we're gonna toggle between the two very nice that they have preheat buttons there and i don't know if you guys can see but the touch screen is attracting fingerprints really easy but yeah this is your typical nozzle and bed temperature controls extrusion is going to run the extruder motor to boiling filament in or out move but this is going to move individual axes a certain amount home which i'm going to go ahead and click you can either home all or individual axes but they also have a motor off just for x and y and not the z so i'm going back we've got a leveling button which we'll come back to filament where we can load and unload i guess that's the same thing as extrusion but you just got a little more options here that's pretty much for the tools menu let's go to settings so we got eprom set fan controls about the printer ui switching and this is quite important as this is going to go from 3d printing to a laser engraving and we'll get into that once we change our tool head and try the laser configuration so we've got machine settings motor settings so leveling settings and advanced settings and i'm not going to go through all this but yeah this is what's available we got the language as we saw earlier wi-fi capabilities so it looks like they have a cloud option and yeah you can connect to wi-fi and it's actually pulling out my wi-fi here so yeah you do have these options but yeah that's pretty much it for this and then you got the printing button that will read the sd card or the usb drive to print the prints and that's pretty much it for the menu guys so you guys probably won't see the screen too well but i'm gonna go ahead and click on tools then home and home all so we're gonna check make sure all of our axes work all right so we got the x the y and the z and i did hear the little probe there come out and looks like that's working too and it does appear that we have some kind of optical sensing for the x and y end stop switches and our z is the probe itself so yeah it looks like everything is working our bed is hot at 60 and the hot end is preheated at 200 so the next thing we need to do is adjust the bed and then after that we'll let the automatic bed leveling do the probing and the offset so we'll go back to tools and we'll click on a leveling and hopefully you guys can see this i'm just going to explain it here so we got point one two three four five and that's the different four corners in the center that we could manually go to and then we also have the auto leveling button over here that once we're done with manually adjusting it we'll click on that for the out of bed loading so it's quite important they do the manual bed leveling first and then the outer bellow so let's click on point one okay there it goes and i'm just going to use this little posty note to build my gap and it looks like it's homing again and you can use any kind of sheet of paper this is pretty thin but any normal you know printing paper would be best all right so right off the bat we're gonna have to cut it loose quite a bit here because we have a large gap so yeah we're just doing normal manual bed leveling and we got the assistant here to go through the corners okay now we're way too tight here this one didn't need too much but yeah guys we're just gonna go around and round around until we get it pretty close so about two or three times you don't have to get it perfect but you know pretty close and as you adjust one corner the other one will change quite a bit so definitely go at least a few times around so yeah i'm getting pretty close where you know it's pretty micro adjusting at this point so as long as you're relatively close the outer bed leveling will compensate for the rest so now we do have 0.5 which goes to the middle here and this step is not really necessary because out of bed leveling should compensate for it and we can just adjust the z-axis offset when it's done so let's go ahead and click on auto leveling and that's going to use the probe to probe through the whole bit so it looks like it's taking three by three measurements yep so that's nine total i would have liked to see four by four but i guess this should be fine all right and that's our last point and so now a new menu pops up for our z-axis offset let's go ahead and use this paper here after it's ready to go down so we're doing a measurement at this point and now i think it should be going down and there we go and so we got a pretty good gap that we need to go down with so let's go ahead and click the minus z offset and you can change the parameter here we're on point zero one at a time which is pretty fine micro adjustment i'm gonna change that to 0.05 okay there we go so we got tighter i'm going to change that back to 0.01 and go up just a little bit still too tight too tight and since i'm using a really thin sheet i want to make sure you know mine's not too tight here so and i think that's pretty good here so and we are preheated still 200 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed now all we got to do is not to forget to click on save so let's do that and that should save everything that it just did and we should be good with the out of bed level all right so let's go ahead and bring up the z-axis a little bit so we can bring our filament in and we'll go ahead and push that through so all you got to do is pull on this knob here and then we can feed the filament through all the way down now on a setup like this it's easy just to push it through yourself but i want to go ahead and show you if you unscrew this little knob here this is how you adjust the tension you guys can see the dual gear drive extruder and our filament there it's a little bit hard to get it just right but once you do it does go all the way through and you guys can see we are purging out the other end so yeah since you know this is not much pushing this is the fastest and easiest way but you can use the touchscreen to you know push it through also with the motor and on this knob when you put it back there's a spring here you don't want to tighten it much just a little bit since there's two gears that are around the filament they're both going to be pushing you don't need much pressure to get a nice consistent feed so so yeah we're pretty much ready to print so let's grab our thumb drive and see if there's anything on it so we're going to plug it in right here on top and it does glow a little red light so let's go to our menu click on printing click on usb drive so we got a g-code for printing and then we got a couple laser files and then a few folders here which we'll check out once we go to the computer but let's go ahead and do this g-code test file that's included with the printer i'll remove these little boogers here we'll click on that and then confirm and it starts so i'm going to click on options and see if we can adjust baby steps yes we can so i'm gonna go ahead and get that ready so when it starts i can go up and down you know depending if it needs to or not hopefully our offset is good okay so it's going to do bed leveling i guess from the beginning of each print or at least that's what it's doing but since there's only nine probes that shouldn't take you know much time all right so it looks like it's going to printing and i think our offset is good yeah it is it's actually perfect so yeah it looks like our leveling was just right let's see it might be a little too close i'm gonna go up just a little bit it does feel like it's maybe a little lower than i would want so yeah since i was using a thinner sheet i probably should have been a little bit more off but we do have the baby steps here and we can adjust that on the fly but yeah that was pretty simple all right so let's take a closer look at the screen here as we're printing so we got like a little preview that's like a standard box depending on the software that could be showing the preview of the model so we've got the percentage bar which is at four percent time since we started the z-axis location at the moment just 0.66 the nozzle temperature and the target also the bed and the target and also we do have a little fan here it's just zero right now for the parts cooling normally prints are sliced where the fan turns on after a few layers then down here we got pause stop and options so here we can adjust the temperature and you can go up and down and you can actually change it to the heat plate right from here you got filament so if you want to change your filament while you're printing you can do that the fan controls you can manually adjust it here so here we have some kind of power options okay so it's got manual and auto so let's turn that on and see what happens then we've got speed so you can adjust how quick extrusion is or the movements you can toggle that here and then we got baby steps which we used and i did go up two times on the point zero five which makes it point one but yeah that's pretty much all the controls and yeah very nicely laid out and i like the overall clean ui the only thing is that the screen seems to be very fingerprinty so whenever i push it i leave fingerprints and smudges all over it so the printer is pretty quiet overall there's not much sound from motors but there is a little bit of fan sound and i'm gonna bring my microphone in so you guys can hear so most of the sound is coming from fans and yeah very happy with how the motors sound but overall this is definitely on the quieter side so we're about nine percent in on this print and it's been about 10 minutes so we're gonna let this thing print out and see what turns out all right so the cube's already done and it only took 32 minutes and 29 seconds so let's confirm that and it goes back to the main menu all right well the bed is actually still hot but i bet you whenever it cools off this should just pop right off well let's see how easy it is to peel it while it's hot okay so it is peeling but it is stuck on there really well but it does pop off pretty easily also so i'm pretty sure that whenever it cools off it's going to just come right off so there is a raft that looks like comes off pretty easy very nice so this was printed pretty quickly it's kind of hard to see on this red filament but it turned out pretty good so we got the x-axis and i think that might be our z seam right there we do have a little bit of vibrations and this is our y-axis a little more vibrations yeah not perfect but not bad either it was printing really quick this is what the bottom looks like and on the top we got a little tivo up a logo there so yeah not bad overall pretty happy with this start i think if we slow down a bit it definitely look a little better on the vibrations and maybe we do need to adjust our belts a little well honestly mine feel pretty good i am happy with the tension on that and the y is a little bit tight maybe could be loosened a bit but you know this is a pretty large glass bed yeah i think we just need to slow down a bit to get better results i think for the next part let's jump to the computer check out what's on this thumb drive and slice our own print all right guys so we're at the computer and i got the thumb drive plugged in let's go ahead and open it up and this is what we see so we got a few folders here g codes and a pdf so on this first one here looks like we got another g code of this thing right here it's like a model of some sort not sure exactly what this is for but maybe this is some kind of add-on or something in any case here we have some other folder which includes a machine settings document and a cura profile so here they kind of go over how to use the slicer which is cura it looks like here they show you how to do everything from scratch which is good and then you can import the cura file or profile that they give you and try that out and that'll set you up now for me i think we're just going to build our own as i try to use my standard settings for all the printers so here we have the software looks like a laser grbl program for windows a light burn project also a light burn program and the cura slicer installation program also so i don't use windows so most of this stuff here is useless but if you do use windows these could be pretty helpful now if you're on mac like me you can just go to ultimaker.com or just search cura and you can download it straight from there which they have a compatible mac version so here we have three test codes that were included we printed out the little cube gcode and we also have a couple laser tests here and most likely this is all i'm going to do with the laser for this video as i would need to find something that either works with mac or find a windows computer to even run the laser program for the last thing we have a pdf of the manual which is basically the same thing you get as a hard copy but in digital form so it could be pretty good to go over and kind of learn about the machine and these are actually all the parameters and we can see here in the laser parameters that we have a 5500 milliwatt which is about 5.5 watt of power and the compatible software is light burn or laser grbl and also in the manual they do kind of go over how to use those programs to to engrave and use the laser so so yeah that's pretty much everything here let's go ahead and open cura and we'll just build a new profile i'm gonna click on add printer we're gonna click on non-network printers so instead of doing custom from scratch i'm just going to pick something from creality that's similar to this printer or actually i'll just use android 3 pro profile as i'm pretty familiar with it and we can rename it to hydro add here we're going to put in our machine settings 305 at 305 400 tall so everything looks good the only thing i think we need to add is next to the g28 we'll add g29 and that's for the out of bed leveling center and that should be all we need to do here so let's click on next and you guys can see our build volume now you don't have to do it like this you can you know go by the manual and install the hero profile which is pretty simple if you click on the printer and then manage printers over here you can see profiles if you click on that you can import a profile and you guys can see the hydra profile comes up and you just open it and it just appears in your profile so when i import it doesn't work because it only works with the custom profile so if you have the custom one open it it will import and then you can use it so in any case let's throw something in there let's do a benchy here so if you click on the model you can move it by just dragging it around or you can drag it around by these arrows so let's go ahead and just push it back or here on the side you guys can see we have some controls so we're on the move and you can type it in here in millimeters and it'll move that certain amount on the axis we also have scale again we can drag it around or we can put in the parameters here in percentage or actual millimeters and rotate where we can move this direction we want that's pretty much your basic controls now what we really need to do is set up our profile here this could be preference you know depending on how you like to print and things like that but i'm just going to go over really quick of how i do it and how i test most printers because you know the functionality is pretty much the same on all of them we just have variables like direct drive and whatnot else so for layer height point two is good on the shell i like to change the wall line count to three as it does make better walls and also the top layers to five and that minimizes gaps fill gaps i'm going to turn to nowhere as i like to see where they are for the infill 20 is pretty good for most things you can go up or down depending on what you're printing temperature 260 on the bed we'll leave that and i'm going to leave the print speed at 50 except for change the initial layer to 15 but the skirt and brim will do 25. now here's something that we do need to change we have retractions under travel and since this is a direct drive extruder let's just go ahead and do one millimeter retraction instead of the 6.5 that was in there and the speed we need to bump up to probably like 45 to 50 so let's just do 50 for this one as the extruder is geared on this one combing mode not in skin is good so everything else looks pretty good cooling if you want to use supports this is where you're going to check this and then set your parameters build adhesion a skirt and that's basically three lines around the print and then it starts printing it so you can change that to brim which will basically print straight to the model and then out kind of make a big footprint just one layer around the print to help it hold to the bed so if you have problems sticking this could help and then we got raft prints basically a whole raft underneath the model and then prints the model on top of that i normally don't like using this it wastes a lot of time and also material so skirt is what i prefer printing straight to the bed so everything else looks good we also have spiralized mode here which we will try out and that's just going to be a couple layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way around to the top and we'll see how that does but yeah that's pretty much it guys so if we click the slice button here on the bottom it's going to slice it it says one hour and 54 minutes to print this print so here we have a preview button if we click that it'll show us the preview let me change this here you know of every layer or whatever layer you want to see and if you push play it'll actually kind of virtually play that out each of the layers so and you can speed that up if you want this could be pretty good if you're you know trying to model up something and want to see how it'll print in that area but yeah all we got to do now is click to save to removable drive since we have our thumb drive plugged in it will go straight to that and we can eject this straight from here but we're not going to do that yet and up here i'm going to click back to prepare to go back to normal view double click clear the build plate or right click and drop in a calibration cube also push that back a bit and we'll go ahead and slice this cube exactly the same way and we'll save it to the removable and we can inject our thumb drive straight from here by clicking eject and yeah that's pretty much it so hopefully this little quick overview was helpful and if you want to learn more about the cure slicer there's a lot of great videos out there so yeah check those out all right so we got the benchy and the cue printed out and the printer's having no issues and everything is working as should the prints are sticking and popping off quite easy after it cools off so let's look at the cube first so here we can see the x there is a little bit of vibrations but overall the layers are sitting really nice and a tiny bit of ghosting you guys can see there but not a crazy amount so not too bad on the x so here we have the y also very nice a little bit of ringing and a small amount of ghosting also on the y but very minor again so pretty good there we got the x wall and the y wall the bottom looks great and the top so yeah it did extremely well with the cube and i'm quite happy with the results so the benchy's still stuck to the plate let's see how easy it breaks off and look at that it was still stuck but as you guys saw there it comes off really easily and that's what's great about these perforated style beds is when they're hot the print does stick to them and when they cool off they just pop right off so the benchy turned out actually much better than i would anticipated but yeah we can see the bottom very nice the side walls very good and depending on the lighting sometimes you can see those lines and not but overall if you look at the reflection you can see it's really even overall layers are sitting beautifully there is something a little bit right here kind of going down it's got an artifact but nothing bad looks great honestly not much ghosting at all around here again that artifact right there this is our z seam yeah very nicely laid down guys really impressive so we had a little bit of stringing not bad at all and this was that one millimeter retraction so it looks like that's about the sweet spot for this guy and this filament is naturally a little bit stringy so it should be pretty well with better filaments yeah we can see the box it's got that slit in there and that's because we're not filling the gaps on the back we can see the wall there it has a little bit of vibration that's on the y this is a pretty large glass bed so it will have a little bit of that cooling seems very reasonable also and yeah the top also looks great and overall just a pretty solid nice print that came out so yeah i'm really happy of how this thing is printing from the start here and pretty confident that it's going to do great on anything we print on here but before we do print anything more what i want to do is try out the laser because we do have a couple test files for the laser and i'm thinking we should go ahead and see how that works if you guys remember you do have to shut off the printer before you change your tool head so let's go ahead and do that and we'll pull out this filament remove these prints here but yeah it's as simple as twisting the little locking knob in the back just enough to release the tool head and then we can just go straight up and look at that simple as that we got the printing hot end extruder assembly off just by sliding it and that's super cool because changing it to laser as quick and we're just going to slide in the same way we slid out and then lock in in the back snug it and there we go now we got blazer so we do have this little cap here and i think peel off this protector this is just for the light not to you know spread too much as it's lasering so i believe it goes like this not too sure exactly let's just leave it like that and we'll power the printer back on so if you guys remember we do need to change the operating system to a laser because we're on 3d printing right now and that's going to be in the settings ui switching and we'll click on engraving and so instead of print it says engraving now on choosing the files so let's go ahead and grab this piece of steel sheet that was included we're going to put it over our build plate to protect it and we're going to grab these clamps that were included and the glue stick is for 3d printing if your models are not sticking but you know we're not having trouble at all with that but yeah these clamps just clamp around the sheet probably need to go back in front i'm not sure if we need all four but i'm just gonna go ahead and install them just in case so nothing moves around now don't forget guys we do have these glasses that are kind of red tinted you do want to wear these because if you're gonna look at the laser beam you want to have some protection for your eyes so out of curiosity let's click on engraving thumb drive and we'll click on one of the laser files that were included and see what happens so the file is called laser test deer and that's given us a few options here to choose from let's just click on border and see what happens and i'm just going to be shooting at this steel reflective plate so it shouldn't do much but i guess we'll find out here in a second yeah let's click on border see what it does all right so that looks like it doesn't do anything so let's click on graphic okay there we go yeah i guess depending on the kind of file that was so now it's burning into the sheet but it's actually not doing anything it's just reflecting z-axis didn't go up and down so i'm thinking that we're doing this all wrong and maybe we'll have to set the distance first before we do anything else i'm gonna go ahead and cancel this because we're not doing much all right so yeah this is what happens when you don't read the manual but yeah it says that we need to bring the whole laser down about two to three millimeters from this acrylic piece to the build plate and that should be pretty focused in so let's click on tools and actually guys we get a whole new menu here that makes sense because we changed the ui so we got a home positioning move power okay so you can control the power level of the laser you can turn the laser on slightly on and off there to see where your position is i guess and we have a positioning button okay so the positioning button sets where the laser head is as the starting point and if we click on home i guess we can home it from here so as you guys can tell i'm not very familiar with lasers as i've only used a laser once before a while back so i do apologize as this is a little neat to me also okay so i think what we need to do at least the fastest thing to do under the home we'll turn off the motors so we can move them around okay great and we'll kind of go to the center of the bed as our starting point and i'm just going to manually let down the x-axis for sure this is a z and we're looking for about two to three millimeters there you know slightly above the build plate or whatever we're burning into so if we turn on the light we can see where it's going to start exactly on that little point hopefully you guys can see most of this stuff so i'm going to go ahead and run a test here again to see what happens so let's click on engraving on graphics and there we go so it kind of moved a little bit to the side and started engraving so it does appear that we are definitely much more reaction going on now since we're much more focused i guess of where we need to be also the starting position appears to be like a corner so maybe we should position the laser more in this area here as it does seem to be like the front right so it depends i guess how it's sliced in the program you know if it's off the center or off an edge but this one appears to be off the edge because it just kind of went to the side and started printing in this area so or should i say engraving all right so i'm feeling pretty confident in this little test run here that we can go ahead and burn something into this piece of wood that they gave us to try on so i'm gonna stop it and looks like we do need to go up a little bit i'm gonna use these clamps here on the edge to clamp the wood down and we'll actually just set the position hopefully this is gonna be good right on the edge so if we do mess up we still have the other side of the board to try on so i'm just going to go ahead and yolo this thing and see what happens so let's go for it graphics and there we go so we are actually burning into the wood and creating a little bit of smoke so yeah if you got a smoke alarm you might want to you know watch out for that probably will go off or actually guys it almost looks like it's cutting because it's going over the same shape over again say i do believe we are actually cutting all right so it actually started something new farther down so yeah guys i'm pretty sure we are cutting and not engraving but yeah it looks pretty cool hopefully we started it correctly because if we didn't we probably messed up our whole board there but yeah i'm just going to let this thing engrave out we are at 12 so it looks like more to go i have a feeling maybe we will be off on some of it but in any case we'll be able to see what comes out all right so it's done cutting and now it's doing some kind of engraving kind of like i guess a picture or some kind of light engraving on top of the pieces it just cut out it's quite a bit of smoke right now so it's really heavily engraving and we are at 94 which is really close to finish so i guess it's putting the final touches on the project all right and it went back to the start position where we started and now that it's done we can see what it was doing so it's uh looks like some kind of animal with legs and pieces that connect together by the way it did take 30 minutes and 25 seconds i guess oh wow look at that we actually burned into the oh wait no we did not that's just residue from the wood okay so we did cut all the way through and the pieces are all just falling out look at that wow that went as planned and it cut right through this thickness here this is a deer looks like that comes together somehow we do have some antlers here and pieces let's see if we can't figure this out so i believe that goes there and our antler should go here somewhere i think i guess something like that maybe and then we got the legs so yeah it looks like we got it together pretty quick it looks pretty awesome actually and this platform here is where it'll stand into so it kind of inserts in there doesn't really hold it so you probably need to glue it so it was a double function of cutting and also engraving very cool see if we can get it to stand on its own here but yeah you guys can see you know you can make pretty good projects with a laser now it does look like we kind of uh messed up this board here so there's only a little bit of area left i might engrave something in here or maybe try to cut something out in any case you guys get to see the laser does work and you know if you are interested in lasers this might be a good way to get into it and kind of mess around with it as you have a whole 3d printer with a laser functionality so for next part i'm going to print out more models maybe use the laser not too sure and also i'll give you my final thoughts on this printer all right so yeah these are all the prints that i printed and actually did a little more lasering and overall i'll have to say guys this is a pretty unique printer now not everything was perfect and we'll talk about that in a second so we've seen the benches we've seen the little red cube that came with the printer so let's check out this little frog here so overall the prints did turn out good and i did print them at 0.2 layer height 200 on the nozzle 60 on the bed the bed stuck well every time and popped right off so really happy about that and if we look underneath here we got some weird artifacts and sagging i'm not sure what that's about but overall the layers do sit pretty good on this little frog and this is a pretty detailed print there's a lot of you know moving around retractions here on the bottom especially and it did a really good job and seems to be pretty good here on the cooling too no stringing on the top at one millimeter now we do have some vibrations throughout the print and you guys probably can see that and that pretty much carries on through all the prints so if i would have to say anything is that there is some vibrations now we do have a really large bed and it is a direct drive extruder yeah there's a lot of weight moving around on the x and y now this other bench here that's in yellow this is actually printed in tpu i use the same profile as this first benchy i just slowed it down to 70 and this is what we got now we do have a little bit more stringing but as far as the layers you guys can see they're sitting really good and you can see by the reflection there and this is tpu if i smash it here you guys can see so yeah not too bad and dialing in the settings could get that more perfected now another print i printed which was a benchmark and this is a very hard print to print at least at its original scale and this is an engine by a creator called sunshine he made this thing as a benchmark i normally don't print these out because i have little success especially with printers out of the box and it was kind of the same here so everything fused together and i was not able to break this engine loose so it is functional it's supposed to spin it kind of fused in multiple places i think if i tried i might be able to get it loose but most likely i'd break it also but i wanted you guys to see what it looks like in its original form here now if you scale it up i think it would do much better and maybe in the future i will try to scale it up and see what happens so so here we have a print called gear and this is a functional print also so you got all these little gears that print separately this should spin and it doesn't spin right off the bat i do have my allen wrench here and let's see how that goes in oh wow that's perfect so let's see how easy it breaks loose oh wow that was really easy perfect literally look at that very impressive all right well it did really good with this and i wasn't expecting that but yeah this just shows the accuracy of the printer and how well the layers you know go down symmetrically because if anything is off you know you could have kind of a wobbly operation or just fuses together but we here we have really smooth operation guys and this is our bottom and you guys can see the bed leaves a really nice finish and sticks really good and then pops right off when it's finished so yeah as far as accuracy looks like this printer does a great job and you can print functional prints now before we go to our last print which is the spaceship in spiralized mode let's go ahead and look at this other file that was included with the printer that uses the laser and so here on the top you guys can see this is like a sheet of paper basically or just regular printing paper that you normally print on and it was definitely too thin i didn't think about turning down the power but even on this thin page the laser actually did a pretty good job on a sheet of paper now below the paper i actually used the rest of the wood that i could get you guys can see kind of had to use what i had but this is the other file that was included with the printer and this is what it made so it's like a little benchmark of circles squares and millimeters also some burn marks here and then a whole picture of this tiger looks pretty cool let's see if i can get closer you guys can see the resolution is quite nice on this thing so i was really impressed with how well it was able to burn that and also we got a little bear there so yeah it would cut and burn on this piece also yeah the laser guys is quite impressive on this burner and like i mentioned earlier i'm not really familiar with lasers and it definitely would be fun to do some projects now you would have to get some kind of wood if you do want to do like cutting and stuff i think this wood here and this is the deer that we built earlier i actually super glued them to this thing so it doesn't fall apart and i'm not sure if the antlers go that way or which way but i think i had them wrong maybe last time yeah this wood is really like thin i wouldn't say thin i mean like really low density i guess is the word i'm looking for so it's not too hard to laser through now i think you can find these things either online somewhere or maybe like hobby shops which there's a lot of really great projects out there for the laser so really cool and really fun with that so yeah i really like how the laser is included with this package which gives you a lot more versatility all right so the last print we got here is the spaceship and yeah it didn't turn out great for a few reasons now it is still stuck to the bed and let's see if we'll be able to take this out now because this is in spiralized mode it is separating in some spots so it might just all break but let's see how easy it comes off oh wow that was super easy i literally just pushed on it and it all came off so wow that's great to see but yeah this is the spaceship guys so it is the full height of what this printer can print 400 millimeters it is quite tall and we did have pretty big spread on the bed the outer bed leveling did great compensating everything was even and again the bottoms look perfect so yeah really happy with the bed but if we go here and look at the sides you guys can see we got a lot of vibrations and it's throughout the whole print but the layers are sitting really nice and even for the most part there is a little bit of layering here i can feel it and actually guys our top just broke off yeah we'll get to that in a second but yeah you can see all the vibration and artifacts and actually lots of vibration around this g here and maybe even ghosting looks like and in this window we got vibrations a little bit lots of vibration on this logo so yeah just kind of vibration is the main issue here now another issue that popped up and you guys can see this whole thing's broke the higher it goes on the z axes the more chance there is for this to be uneven just a little bit and whenever we're in spiralize mode even a little we'll break it loose like this yeah and you can kind of see where it kind of just starts printing in the air after that now this is nothing too serious to worry about unless you know you're going to print spiralize mode this tall because this is more towards the top now if you're going to print a normal print that little bit won't matter because the print is solid but in spiralized mode it has to be absolutely perfect in order for it to work there's very little deviation it can do so yeah and it's going to affect more on the wider parts than the smaller narrowers and again just ringing but as far as layers they're sitting really good and if we go up this point here layers are sitting very accurate is the plus but the minuses for some reason we were not able to cool all the way to the ball so there was like a little melt here i'm not sure why it seems like we have a pretty good parts cooling fan but i think it's pointed a little too high and maybe needs to be redirected a bit but yeah overall i would say it did great and also another thing to mention about the spiralized is it was able to do it and most of these printers lately here are not able to do the prioritize mostly because of the power resume function and the way it's integrated so yeah i guess it's a plus and a minus for this printer in spiralized mode but yeah overall guys i'm really happy with this thing i think it does the job it feels pretty premium overall as far as build quality and the way it's put together everything is metal definitely the highlight of this printer is the interchangeable heads between laser and 3d printing the printing head has all high quality parts with dual gear extruder that's direct driven i love the cable management of how all the cables are routed around very clean we have dual z axis lead screws that are tethered on the top we obviously get the laser head also and this part here is pretty cool that you can just slide them out and they have connectors on the back now there is maybe some danger to that as they do caution you a lot about turning the printer off before changing the heads which makes sense because whenever you move this thing up your pins change connections as you go up with it so if you have your printer on and the wrong pins touch the wrong areas that could be a problem definitely be careful with that and could be you know something a little cumbersome if you don't pay attention we got the filament detection here on top but the spool holder appears i would have to say that i don't really like it because as i was printing some of my spools are a little wider and narrower than others and some have larger and smaller lips and these bearings are so small you have to get it just right in order for it to roll right so it's a little tedious and then i don't really like it it's a great idea but i think they should have made a wider track of rolling or even have like just a rod that rolls or double up the bearings i guess that's a little bit of a con there now what's not a con is this build plate it's large at 305 by 305 by 400 tall is how much we can print because it's ac heated it heats up super fast i mean you can go from cold to ready to go in a minute which is quite incredible and also the coating like we talked about earlier is great it works perfect and it is also insulated so the insulation doesn't look so great because it's kind of all bent on the edges there but yeah it seems to do the job for sure and with the out of bed leveling it makes it really easy to start your prints evenly every time now the only thing that i noticed that maybe is not so great is that there's no way to remove the bed itself or at least what i can tell i think it's just connected together all sandwiched and so if you do need to replace this eventually it might be you know something that is a little harder to do unless you replace just the whole thing so so i love the large channels also they use on the x and y i wish i had some kind of adjustments for the belts where you can you know have a knob for that i do like the sd card and the thumb drive option i actually really do like the display and the ui how it's all set up and it's easy to use and read yeah the whole design of the printer you guys can see quite modern and futuristic and somewhat alien-ish i guess but yeah pretty cool printer overall i think for the right person that's looking for this kind of combo and this build size with the ability to you know use the laser this is a pretty good option here so if you guys are interested in this printer i'm going to have some links in description check it out and if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button if you want to see more videos like this and other things i do on this channel stay tuned for more and also check out my 3d printing playlist i'm sure you'll find something interesting there and if you guys stuck around to the end i really do appreciate you watching so as always thanks for watching and i'll catch you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 5,293

Keywords: 3d printing, 3d printer, 3d print, 3d printer review, best 3d printer, 3d printing time lapse, tevoup hydra, laser engraving, laser engraver, cheap 3d printer, 3d printers for beginners, 3d printed, tevo printer, hydra 3d printer, tevoup hydra 3d printer, 2 in 1 3d printer laser, 3d printer laser, 3d printer laser engraver, 3d printer laser cutter, 3d printer laser engraver attachment, 3d printer laser cnc, 3d printer laser engraver combo, 3d printer laser bed leveling

Id: PBiFNBWcSZs

Length: 65min 33sec (3933 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 15 2022