Tronxy Crux 1 - Mini 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

hey guys welcome back to another 3d printing video today we have a printer from tronxy or tron xy which is called the crux one and this is a smaller printer that could probably suit a lot of you out there so i am pretty excited to see what has to offer so in this video we're gonna unbox it set it up and do some prints hope you enjoyed the video let's get started [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so the crux one comes in this package it's not very large we got a picture here of what it looks like and on the side here we can see the measurements of the box in millimeters and on the little sticker here it says pei so this should be the version that has the build plate upgrade and by the way the shipping label says 6 kilograms which is about 12 pounds or so all right so i got the box cut open let's go ahead and open it up and it looks like they use the white soft phone for the packing and this is what we see on top so we got the manual so here shows us all the parts of the printer the parameters the parts list of all the included items and the installation instructions that go quite in good detail how to get this thing assembled and start printing also we get a little paper that says magnetic steel plate and on the back of that there's in some installation instructions of how to install it onto the printer and we also get this little piece of paper that's kind of like a measuring ruler and also some instructions here on the back of how to level the bed and you can use this to set the gap all right so yeah everything is laid out really nice so here we have the pei sheet and the reason you want to upgrade to this is that not only is it more convenient to use over the glass bed but it's a lot more reliable and durable and because you can remove it so easily it's magnetic it makes it really a much better and faster and easier experience as the glass bed takes a while to cool off i would definitely highly recommend going to the pei steel sheet so here we have the power cord it's about four feet long a bag of tools and whatnot else we'll go through this in a second a coil of pla filament in this blue color i'm usually not a big fan of these but for this printer it's fine so we also get a usb adapter with the micro sd card in there and our spool holder which is fully metal quite simple but seems to be great for doing its job just holding the spool and i like how it's all metal and that's everything for the top here let's go ahead and pull this off and underneath we can see the gantry which is the upper portion and the base so we're going to pull this all out together because it is tethered move this out of the way for a second and yeah that's everything for the box very well packed and lots of foam protecting the printer all right so you guys can see that we don't have much here i can almost pretty much yeah set this thing right on top yeah quite a simple construction and as you guys can see pretty much comes pre-built with everything we just need to mount the upper portion and then plug a few things in but before we do that i'm going to go ahead and flip this thing over and what i want to do is take off this cover on the bottom and see what we got underneath so let's go ahead and open up this bag so we got a usb cable to connect from the printer to the computer a hex style screwdriver some zip ties a couple open-ended wrenches some bolts we're installing a little metal handle that we'll install and this is to carry the printer around and a little set of allen wrenches which i'm going to go ahead and pull the one out i need and we'll take these bolts out from the bottom cover all right so let's go ahead and pull this off so it's just a metal plate that's got four rubber feet on each corner and yeah it looks quite interesting under here all right so let's take a closer look here yeah we can see the power supply it is a 240 watts 24 volt everything is nicely organized and crimped so this is the input power it goes the supply that added supply into the main board we got this really large cooling fan for the board and it is a trunksy made board we do have an arm processor and yeah everything looks very nicely organized and routed here and this is the y motor that moves the bed back and forth all right so i'm gonna put this cover back on and we'll start the assembly all right so on the first step we're installing the gantry to the base we're gonna need this packet of bolts and so what we're gonna do is make sure that our wiring here is not twisted up too bad or is where it wants to be okay there we go that's better so yeah just make sure your wires are not being all twisted and we're literally gonna set it down right here and there's one two three four five points that will have to secure the gantry down to the base and actually i think this ridge that they included is the same one as the allen ring that we need and sure enough it is all right well that makes life a lot easier definitely appreciate that and i really like how they thought about the installation process and included this useful driver so yeah there's three here and i'm just gonna start them for now because we need to move it around maybe here and there and you guys can see there's two on the back and then one it's kind of harder to see but it's underneath the bed right over here so now that we got all of them started we can go ahead and tighten them up so we're going to snug this up really good and we can actually use our little wrench for leverage if we want to get them you know nice and tight all right so yeah now our gantry is connected to the base so for the next part they want us to install the metal handle on top and that's this guy here and it goes right here now we do need to lower the x-axis or the z and if you guys can see we got a lead screw here so if we just grab it by the coupler we can turn it to go up and down make some room here so we can get to the handle those same bolts out of the pack and we'll need two of them start one and the other and there we go and now we have a handle that we can grab the printer by and move it around so yeah so far pretty simple so for the next part they want us to connect the z which is right here and the wires just stick it up and it does have a little z on it and that's our motor for the z axes so yeah just need to plug that in the next step we'll be installing the spool holder which is also quite simple it goes here on the side of the printer and it's pretty much assembled so we just got to line it up with these two threads so it does kind of lean back go ahead and snug it up yeah you can see it kind of goes towards the back and leans a bit but yeah that's the way it works and we'll go through here in a second guys and look at how everything feeds and operates so for the next part we gotta install the build plate but the one they're showing here is the glass and we have the pei sheet and that's pretty much it for the assembly so let's go ahead and install our build plate so separating them apart we can see that this is the magnetic part and it's like a big sticker that we gotta peel here and then we're gonna put it on the aluminum heated bed now there is a little protector here and you can choose to take this off or leave it doesn't really matter mine looks like it's pretty good and flat and everything's nice now if you have some kind of wrinkles or it's peeling you might as well take it off but you know if it's perfect you can leave it and i'm just going to go ahead and stick this to that now normally i'm not very good with this kind of stuff so if you're not either be very careful because you get only one try so i'm just going to peel it on one corner and then lay it down and i'm making sure that it's square everywhere but once i'm pretty confident i got it reasonably straight i'm just going to start peeling the whole thing underneath kind of laying it flat where it needs to go but be very careful here and just take your time so since this is so thick it's not that hard obviously but you know you just want to line it up as close as possible and kind of evenly let it set in from one end to the other all right well i think we did a pretty good job and now our pei sheet should just magnetize right on top of it it kind of jumps around here and there but it does line up and yeah very cool to have this pi option for this printer i definitely like that so i'm not sure if i skipped a step or what but we haven't did anything here so it looks like that if you do want to use the filament detector it's kind of built in here on the side you're gonna have to go through with your filament kind of feeding like this and then through the tube now this is a direct drive extruder the part that's unfortunate because it's direct drive you know you kind of benefit of not having any tubes but because this printer is so small you know it's not really a great option to mount on top you can probably mount a spool holder up here somewhere if you wanted to instead of this handle kind of like a diy upgrade and then you can feed straight down into that but if you want to use it the way they intended it or at least what it feels like what's intended here is that we need to remove this ptf tubing here piece that guides and then we're going to insert this one instead just like that and now our filament will feed through the detector and then into the hot end or the extruder so again looks like right off the bat or the factory setup here we are already given options to you know upgrade this thing which is kind of cool but we're going to start it off here with the most simplest way is just the way it is right now and i'm pretty excited to show you guys all the details because i see quite a few unique and interesting things about this little printer all right so yeah let's take a closer look at this thing and so far i'm pretty impressed with what i see especially for being a budget printer so we'll start here on top we got a little handle that we installed everything is metal here you can see our elite screw it does have a bearing on top so let's go to the back you guys can see going down to our brass bushing then eventually down to our z-axis motor with the coupler and it's black so here we have our x-axis connection that goes out like an arm and this is all metal our x-axis motor this is the filament detector so our filament will come out of the spool and then into the detector through this tube and then out into the hot end so looking at the back of the direct drive extruder we can see the motor and it's all very well integrated at least very cleanly and you guys probably notice here maybe we are rolling on metal rails instead of having those plastic rollers that are v-channeled this is more like a linear rail style roller type so yeah very nice and i definitely prefer this because it's very smooth if it's done right it's definitely better than those plastic rollers so not too much to see here underneath we do see the nozzle though with the silicone heat sock on the heater block so going down to the very bottom not much here just some venting and then we've got our main wire coming out to the bed and another one here going to the x-axis the spool holder melts here you guys can see where we mounted all our bolts to hold the upper portion under the bed we can see where our y-axis motor is and it kind of rolls on these idler pulleys and we have the belt that connects to the bed again the same kind of channel for the y-axis we got the y-axis and stop switch going back to the front here we can see a cover with our qr code and here's our x-axis and stop switch and we can see how that works right there underneath that we got the z-axis in stop switch which goes down and hits this adjustment here and you can turn this to go lower or higher to offset it so let's go ahead and preset it and go all the way down and when it hits that switch it's going to click there we go and we can see about how high we are off the bill plate so that looks like about right and our springs are somewhat tightened so i think we do have to go down on this a little bit but we'll do that when we level the bed so yeah you guys can see everything is built very well on this printer so let's go back to the top here look at the hot end assembly so we got the heat brake fan here looks like and it looks like it has a multi-purpose of cooling the extruder down and also the heat break itself which is right behind there you can't really see it but yeah a very interesting design and we can see our extruder arm here where we can release it so we can feed the filament through we got a very large blower fan and this is for the parts cooling and there is a 3d printed duct that comes out right there underneath the nozzle and going to this side of the nozzle and the heat block there so and we got our extruder motor so at the end of the x-axis we do have a tensioner for the belt and it's this little twisty thing which is really nice just be careful not to over tighten it mine's i think a little tight right now but yeah we can adjust that as we need it and you want to be you know semi-tight but not too tight we do have quite a lot of mass moving here with the motor so a little tighter is better all right now we go down to the build plate that we installed which is this pei sheet very nice and it comes right off it's just magnetic so we do have a volume of 180 by 180 and 180 tall which is a really good size for how small this printer is yeah i do feel like most people would be more than happy with something this small of a form factor and the amount it could print all right so let's go underneath here so the metal part this aluminum is the heated bed and then underneath maybe you guys can see here we have a insulation pad which is really cool even though this bed is small it's nice to see that they put that there because it should heat up really quick we do have adjustable knobs with springs on all four corners and we'll be using those in a second to level the bed and our bed frame there riding on the steel rollers you guys can see so yeah very nicely built again i love these rails we got a little end cap here and i'm expecting to see great print quality because of this so on the very top we've got a screen that's kind of just pointing up vertically so yeah it's not very good to look at it probably from an angle like this which is fine when you're looking down at it on the desk and there's a protector let's go ahead and peel that overall looks nice and clean so going down from there we got the micro sd card port a usb port and this is where you're gonna use that blue cable to connect to the computer and a regular usb port for like a thumb drive or even that adapter you could probably use here with the microsd card so yeah they give you quite a few options here to connect so on this side we got the crux one logo going to the left not too much here but to the right we got our on and off switch here right on the front and that's our power input port and it is fused and if we keep going this way there's actually quite an important thing that we got to look at here and this is our voltage selection so you guys can see it says 220 and 110 and there's a switch in there it's kind of like a black switch pointing down and you got to click that to your voltage yeah depending on where you live you're going to toggle it to the left for 220 and right for 110. so mine is toggled correctly to the 110 and we do have four rubber squishy feet on each corner so yeah guys overall looks like a pretty cool little printer and i'm excited to power it on preheat it and level the bed so let's go ahead and plug our power cord in and that is here on the side which is pretty convenient here up front all right so it looks like we got a boot up and you guys probably won't see this well because of the reflections but yeah it made a little sound there and booted up so we're going to look at the menu but i'm going to go ahead and click on tools preheat so hitting right in the middle preheats the bed to 60 and 200 on the nozzle and you can also individually do it let's go to manual and this is where we're going to home the printer all right so that was the y the x and the z coming down and look at that everything's working perfectly and it is preheating it's already pretty hot wow yeah with this thing being so little and insulated it's gonna heat up real quick so the bed is at 55 and yeah it's almost at 60. all right hopefully you guys can see that but yeah it looks like the screen actually out of turns off or dimps and you can see just touch it and powers back on and hopefully you can see that there's a little bit of reflection but so let's go back to the main menu so this is what you see when you first start we got system tools and print the system is going to be about the printer we've got status info a language let's choose the different languages and then reset to default so tools is going to be where everything like if we click on manual you can see here we can move individual axes and also home the printer and this is what i pushed here right in the middle and here on the bottom you can adjust how much it moves from point one to one and ten millimeters at a time let's go back we got preheat push either plus or minus but to preheat straight to 60 and 200 you just click right on it right on the numbers like that so you can see that if i click on it it goes back to zero so yeah that's really nice and then we have the level button and here it asks us to choose the kind of level which we only have manual available for this model it's going to give us five points that we can go to and it's actually out of homing right now so we're going to click these circles here to go to that part of the bed and we're about to go through this and level the bed but if we go back we've got the last thing which is print and that's gonna read our micro sd card or thumb drive to access the files so yeah pretty small screen but quite intuitive and works pretty well alright so let's go ahead and level the bed and so the first thing we want to do is we want to see how low our nozzle goes before it hits the build plate and as you can see baby there's still a gap there between the nozzle also we want to check our springs to see if they're you know compressed the way i like to do it is compress them pretty much all the way down until they're feeling some resistance and now we can see we got a pretty large gap under there so we can go ahead and compress this spring here to go lower on the z-axis switch so i'm going to go ahead and tighten that up so this might not tighten too much depending on how much compression it has left let's see about how far it goes down now okay so pretty good maybe i'll go a little more and i think that should be all right because we do need to release these you know a good amount so basically what we're trying to do is tighten everything up so you know the tighter these springs are on the bed the less chance they have of getting bumped off and plus we are adding a little bit of volume to our z height as we're you know compressing down more so on the screen we're going to tap on tools level like you guys saw manual and it's going to prompt up the five points and we'll just click on the first point and you do want to make sure that you are preheated on the bed and the nozzle so let's go ahead and use this little paper they included to do the gap and what we're doing is we're just going to adjust the bed until our nozzle kind of has a slight drag on the paper here well there we go so now we're gonna go to the next spot which is this corner here all right just a little drag and we're just gonna go around and around the four corners until we get them perfect so since this is a pretty small size bed it shouldn't be too hard and you definitely want to go you know a few times but here just on my second try i'm already pretty close so yeah you just want a slight drag between the nozzle and the bed so yeah we're really close now this is our third run and i'm pretty happy with that so let's go ahead and click the middle that feels pretty much perfect so if you do need to go down a little let's say it's too tight for some reason just turn each knob just a little bit the same on four corners and you know the whole thing will go down just slightly or if it's too loose you want to go up a little you can do that but yeah i mean that's pretty much the extent of leveling the build plate so if we go back it's going to add a home and we're done with the bed level alright so let's install some filament and i'm just going to use a roll that i have this is a full-size spool but it is coming to an end let's see how well this works so yeah just going to sit on the spool holder and then we're going to go through the filament detector here on the side and then through the ptfe tubing and then down into the extruder so what we want to do is push on this lever to release it and as i do that i'm going to push it through and it should eventually be coming out the other end as you guys can see there yeah it just goes through here and then we press on this lever to release the tension on the gear so we can get through into the hot end and then purged it by pushing it through now i don't think well actually no we do have extruder controls here under the manual menu so we can go ahead and see if we can just push that with the extruder and sure enough we can so if you do get you know close into here you can just push the extruder down and it'll push it the rest of the way so all right well i think we're pretty much ready to print we leveled the bed we ran our filament through let's grab our micro sd card which by the way is an 8 gig and we can plug it in here or you can just plug the adapter into the usb port and it should work either way so i'm going to click on print and you guys can't see this and there is a file in there and click on test models and there is a few g-codes included click on the calibration cube and we'll start with that one we're going to look at the printing menu here in a second guys so it is preheating 200 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed and there it goes so let's hope our offset is just right and it looks pretty good to me okay so it is purging there on the side yeah it looks like it purged good and printing but it seems like it's under extruding or something which is weird because it bursts perfectly or pretty much perfect like a nice thick line but when it started printing it's kind of printing in this really thin thin way i'm just going to let it go and see what happens it almost looks like the file is corrupt or sliced wrong but we are printing and yeah everything seems good our gap is perfect the stepper motors are ultra quiet and that goes for everything extruder z-axes and the x and y so yeah they didn't skimp out on that can you can't hear them at all now there is quite a bit of fan sound mostly coming from underneath the printer that big fan i guess underneath there but these guys are pretty silent so maybe a good mod would be to slow that fan underneath down just a little bit okay so it's printing and everything's fine i guess it was just that first layer it's looking really good on the start there all right so we're back at the top and you guys can see the screen turns off even while pretty so that's pretty cool and i hope you guys can see that zoom in just a little more but yeah on the top we got the file name and then the coordinates x y and z the bed temperature and the target the speed that's currently going at so it's like 30 right now the nozzle temperature and the target the time passed and time left 46 minutes with a progress bar down here of how much has been completed which is six percent and then we got a pause stop and okay yeah so we can adjust the temperature of the bed the nozzle and also we do have a z-axis offset look at that so you can adjust it up and down on the fly which is really nice to see but yeah pretty much all of the uh options here and everything's laid out pretty well and the screen does look a lot better when you look at it straight down we're kind of looking at it at an angle so all right so we're kicking some butt and the cube is printing very nicely so yeah the layers look like they're going down perfect i don't know what was all that about in the beginning but looks like that's sorted out and everything is great so i'm going to go ahead and let this thing print out and we'll see how they come out alright so we printed out all of the models that were included with the printer and one interesting thing is that whenever it's done printing it actually shuts all the fans down so it's completely quiet i really like that part about it so let's say if you're going to print overnight once it's done it's just going to be silent after that and also it does you know turn off the screen too so and the prints all turned out pretty good so since we didn't slice them you know i don't really know what the parameters are of them but one thing that we can definitely see on all of them just like we saw on the calibration cube is there is some ringing in there so let's look at this crazy looking print so yeah layer adhesion perfect but there is ringing so i did loosen up the belt a bit on this print after the cube thinking that that might help but as you can see maybe it did help a little but we still have some ringing here and there the bottom looks pretty good you get a textured finish so the next one printed is actually a cooling duct just like the one here it is included with the files and some reason it didn't finish printing it wasn't jammed or anything it just stopped printing which was kind of weird meaning the extruder stopped extruding the printer was still in the air so but yeah again you can see all the vibrations there and i believe that's the y and the x would be here so the x is still cleaner than the y which kind of puzzles me as the bed is small and maybe because it's small lightweight and the motor vibrations come through you know that's the only thing i can really explain and then we got this guy here again excellent layer adhesion as you can see but we do have vibrations so you know it's not bad but it is there but the pei sheet works extremely well it sticks so good and then they just pop off when it cools off so yeah as far as how well the printer is putting down layers is great but we do have a little bit of vibrations so this cat print here is still stuck to the plate and it'll probably come off really easy let's try yeah it's not even wow yeah whenever it cools it just pops right off which is kind of crazy you guys can see that's what the bottom looks like but yeah same story here vibrations some ringing we do have a little bit of some funding going up up here and other places here and there actually not sure what that is it almost looks like a discoloring in the filament but in any case yeah since you know we didn't slice none of this i don't really know what to think so i think for the next part let's go to the computer and i'm going to slice my own calibration cube and vinci and we'll print them out in black so we can see a lot better of how the layers sit all right so we're at the computer i've got the thumb drive plugged in let's go ahead and open it up so we have one folder in there if we open that up we can see there's quite a bit of folders so it looks like we got a usb driver contact us cura profile for this printer slicing software so this is for windows and i'm actually using a mac so the instruction manual in pdf form which could be pretty nice to have and by the way these are all the parameters of the printer all right so we got the test model and this is the five g-codes that comes with the printer and those are the prints we printed out it also looks like here we got a couple videos also along with leveling that could maybe be helpful if you're confused about that so since i already have cure i'm going to go ahead and open it up i'm going to click over here and add printer and when you first start you'll get this window we're going to click on non-network printers and if we go to tronxy we can see here that this printer is not in the list and i think they recommend you start with the d01 but i think another printer that comes to mind that's very similar to this one is the king rune so yeah i'm just gonna use this one and we're gonna rename it crux one i guess i'll put the trunks in there also yeah i'll just add and you can see all the parameters are exactly the same as this printer which is 180 squared so yeah this would be the easiest way just get started here we can see the printer with the volume and it even looks extremely similar so in any case let's go ahead and throw a bench in here and this is what it looks like so if you click on it you can see here on the left side we've got these hot buttons so we got move scale rotate and these are the three basics and you got a few more controls under there so on rotate you'll just grab one of the lines here and rotate it scale you can also grab it and scale it or you can type in the percentage you want move is the same way you just actually click on the model and move it around the beds or you can just precisely move it or type it in here in millimeters so if we go to the top right clicking on the standard quality you can see here this is all of our parameters to the print so if you click on these three lines here you guys can see we have a few choices and you want advanced and let's go ahead and go through this real quick so on quality we're going to keep everything the way it is and you can adjust your layer height here top and bottom we're going to change the top layers to five infield density at 15 is pretty good for most things printing temperature at 200 should be okay printing speed and we'll turn that down to 50 millimeters a second and i like my initial layer to be a little slower than that so we'll go 15 and 25 skirt brim retractions on the distance looks good since this is direct drive but can i bump it up just a bit to 1.2 millimeters everything else looks good fan is fine build a haitian skirt four seems a little much so i'll go to three here and you have a choice between brim raft and none the skirt's just gonna print a few lines around the print and then start printing brim is going to put lines around the print but touch it to the edge and then raft is gonna underneath the print and then print on top of that so yeah i don't like using raft and especially for this printer with this build plate skirt should be perfect now if you're having problems sticking brim might be a good idea to kind of reinforce everything and then down here we have special modes which we can use spiralize mode right here and if you click it it's just gonna print a couple layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way around and we'll try this mode out also on this printer so the only other thing i like to change and if you click here and click on expert there's going to be a lot more stuff that comes out and it's going to get pretty confusing but in retractions we scroll down here a bit it says here retract before outer wall i like to disable that as it seems to help a bit with under extrusion especially where there's a lot of retractions required but yeah other than that that's pretty much everything we'll go back to advanced here so we're not confused and everything looks good we're going to click the slice button and you guys can see it's gonna take only one hour and 41 minutes to print out this benji so we can save it straight to the removable since our sd card is plugged in and now if we open up the card we can see it's right here but i'm going to go ahead and double click here or right click and clear the bill plate i will also throw in a calibration cube let me push it back just a little bit slice it the same way 33 minutes save to removable and you guys can see we can eject it right here also straight from the slicer all right well hopefully this little quick overview was helpful let's go print out those two models and we'll see what they look like all right so we printed out the calibration cube and the vinci and yeah i think we got much better result from our own slicing so let's look at the cube first so this is the x and you can see we'd still have vibrations and slight ghosting a couple different lightings here for you guys and then the y less vibrations which is good but still ghosting there as you can see but not bad for sure the x wall and the y wall the top looks excellent and the bottom so yeah i mean overall even though there's some vibrations it looks much much better and cleaner than our first princess now the benchy here will show us a lot more and i haven't pulled it off yet okay yeah so this one's stuck pretty good let's see if i can okay yeah it came off really easy and yeah this thing is really impressive if you are gonna get this printer or even any other printer i highly recommend this pei steel sheet it seems to do wonders here we have the benchy and yeah right off the bat guys it looks amazing so let's start here from the bottom you guys can see the finish that it leaves the bed does on the back there we can see vibrations but look how clean the 3d benchy words are very nice on the sides here the walls looking really good and even so yeah we're all great here we had something kind of funny going on there not too bad we got a little bit of ghosting let's go to this side usually we get a lot of ghosting here which there is a little bit not bad and that's the z seam there so so the walls look nice and straight overhangs very clean even on the front practically no stringing at all anywhere which is awesome there's a little bit in the window there but yeah look at that guys very clean and yeah you can definitely see the vibrations the box looks good and the top looks amazing so yeah excellent prank guys and this is what i was expecting from these metal roller rails again the only thing to really complain about i guess if it's even complained is the vibrations now i'm gonna try to play around with this belt a little more but i don't think i can do anything else i've tried loosening it and then i've tightened it back up again and it's got a nice tension on it and it feels smooth i can't feel any kind of jittering so yeah it must be coming straight from the motors now it could be also the slicer with the slicing normally i don't have any issues with cura on most printers so in any case so far the printer is printing great so i'm going to go ahead and print out some more models and because we have a direct drive extruder i think we can go ahead and try some tpu also and i also want to print something in spiralized mode and see how that works out all right so we printed out a few more models and i have to say overall this thing is really fun to use so let's start with this plain chip is what it's called and i printed this in tpu but also this is in spiralized mode which is just a couple layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way around so it's hollow and you guys can see this is tpu as it folds up pretty nice but yeah pretty good overall it did print kind of foamy not sure why maybe my filament is just getting bad but i don't think so because if we look on the very bottom it's smooth and then as it goes up it's foamy so i'm thinking that this printer suffers from what a lot of the newer printers that have issues just like this is they don't have enough memory or bandwidth to calculate one layer all the way up so this is why this is experimental mode in spiralized now what's interesting is that we have another print that's also in spiralized but it doesn't seem to have this issue that this one did so and we'll look at that in a second let's look at this octopus first this point here is the largest or the maximum x and y that we could squeeze out of it so it's literally 180 on the x and the y of these feet and you can see it's a pretty large model for such a small printer there's still a support here let's go ahead and pop that off but yeah again this pei sheet guys works excellent every foot stuck nothing popped off and it completed the print and look how clean it is it's literally pretty much perfect now we still have this kind of textured look all over the print and you know the larger the print is the less kind of noticeable those vibrations are and since this is not you know flat surfaces anywhere it's all rounded it kind of uh camouflages them very well yeah overall great print very accurate and pretty impressive for this little printer now another print we printed which is kind of cooling this is like an engine and normally i can't get these things to work ever but i did scale this one up to 150 which is quite a bit larger than it's supposed to and this is a functional print but we had a few issues here on the bottom things that popped off i was still able to clean it up and also make it work so yeah you guys can see it works really well so i think there's a little bit too much play and everything so it kind of gets stuck here and there but i think if i scaled it only to about 120 30 it would have been you know a lot more smoother but yeah really cool print overall and this is by someone called sunshine if you just search for him and include engine and you will find this print here if you've never printed this thing it's really hard to print at least at its original size yeah i went ahead and oversized it and it came out really nice but yeah for the last print here we got the spaceship and this is actually the full height that this printer can print which is 180 millimeters and it had no issue with that let's see how easy it will pop oh yeah it just pops right out you guys see that but this print is also printed in spiralized mode and so it's just a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way around so this one didn't have any issues with under extruding or whatnot else and if we look at the bottom very nice the bed does leave this textured finish and you guys can see those vibrations they're pretty pronounced and it's just kind of textured looking all the way up so not perfect obviously they're not terrible either and when things get smaller it does clean up quite a bit and as we go up you guys can see we actually finished to the very top including this little ball we did start melting here but look how smooth this part is right here so so yeah overall i'm pretty happy with how this printer performs i wish we did have a little less vibrations and maybe that could be adjusted it is possible maybe our steel rollers are too tight on the rails or could be something else i overlooked but as far as the printer itself it's very easy to assemble and actually quite easy to disassemble if you you know need something that you can travel with as you just take out those five main bolts unplug a couple things take the spool holder off and you can collapse this whole thing so yeah it makes it a pretty great traveling printer i do like how it's put together and built everything is high quality metal on all the parts that are important the direct drive extruder assembly works well and there's no issues at all with it great parts cooling we do have a filament detector but you do have to kind of use this tube for that and for how this printer set up it makes sense i love the pei metal sheet as you guys see it's excellent and definitely worth getting over the glass bed the touchscreen is good it gets the job done i like how we have all these port options and yeah just a great little printer overall for anyone to get started especially for the younger makers out there that want to get into printing this would be a great printer to get you started and into 3d printing also if you don't have much space and you want something small this thing is very compact since the power supply is built into it there's nothing more than itself and a cord so yeah it would be able to fit in very small spaces so yeah overall great printer for the right person and if you are interested in it i'm gonna have some links in the description check it out and if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button and if you want to see more videos like this stay tuned i got more 3d printing stuff coming up also check out the 3d printing playlist i'm sure you'll find something interesting there so as always guys thanks for watching and i'll catch you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 6,221

Keywords: 3d printer, 3d printing, tronxy crux 1, crux 1, mini 3d printer, cheap 3d printer, tronxy crux1, mini 3d printer build, cheap 3d printer review, cheap 3d printer for beginners, tronxy crux 1 review, crux 1 3d printer, 3d printer time lapse, travel 3d printer, small 3d printer, 3d print, 3d printer 2022, 3d printing time lapse, 3d printing ideas, 3d printing for beginners, 3d printers for beginners, 3d printing machine, portable 3d printer, portable mini 3d printer

Id: xiJ6ertNZIM

Length: 38min 10sec (2290 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 19 2022