Make Atlas Lathe Milling Attachment pt5 Tips #454 tubalcain

howdy once again it's tubal-cain your youtube shop teacher this time with part 5 the final episode of the atlas milling attachment build and here is the completed one this is pretty much the model here the original Atlas that I happen to have but many people that do not maybe interested in building this and remember that it was modeled basically off of this popular science article by Harry Walton clear back in April of 54 and you can find that on Google I said that many times now I make a video like this over about a 8 or 10 day period so sometimes I repeat myself I realize that I don't know what I said in the earlier episode so bear with me if I do repeat myself go back and watch those earlier episodes if you're interested in it and you followed me through this no blueprints but remember I made wooden models concept modeled prototypes that's kind of how I work there is no measured drawings but here it is and in the last episode I showed you how to zero it out and a few things like that so I'd like to carry it one step further in this video and show you some of its uses over the years I've made many different videos on the use of these attachments and here are some of them if you want to go back and look at them because I'm not gonna cover all this again because it would be repetition also some of these were used or videotaped and some of my video course of my Logan and my Atlas and my self ban courses so check these out if you're interested to see how to use these but I'm going to show you some simple setups here in just a minute we'll step on over to the Atlas lathe so join me please ok I'm over here at the Atlas lathe and this is a 12 inch lead so if you have a 10 inch lay there might be different modifications that you have to make to this I'm not sure but looking at the way it's set once you get your setup made make sure that you have all of your screws good and tight including these two back here because it lacks rigidity as the way it is now there's a lot of abilities in this attachment because it can be set at the zero point and I show you two how to zero it out in the last video but any different degree that you would want and that can be done with the protractor that's built in down here or you can use a protractor like this but set up against your Chuck as a reference any angle that you would want but probably most of it will be in the zero position like this or in the 90 degree however it's not going to work in this direction probably because there just isn't enough travel here and by the way if this is exposed you might want to put some tape or something over there to keep chips from getting down into that screw but if you're working on the end of a piece like this you may need to swing it around like this the visibility is more difficult but at least you have the travel here in your cross slide that would allow you to do that and then here's the work right here so quite a bit of capability in that axis similarly the vise can be by loosening these and I think you know that's already tilted at different angles this is a work piece here whatever angle you may need and then you can do compounding or you know in conjunction with this axis and of this axis so it's very capable of different things just pretty much up to what your imagination can conceive if you look at this little chart here you can see that we have assigned X Y and z-axis to these different movements so from right to left with the carriage is the Z up and down with this is Y and then back and forth on the cross slide is the X so you got XY and Z so you can consider those assignments there when you're discussing or when I'm discussing the movement so when you're moving the carriage in the z-axis you can use dial indicators to position it because there is no other coordinate or measuring device there you can use your carriage stop here along with your graduated dial to determine how deep you're going it toward the headstock so the those are both handy but remember to a dial indicator is extremely accurate again in the vertical direction which we call the why we have the graduated dial up here so and you could use indicators also but this is typically what you would use here and it would be pretty accurate for that and then moving in and out with the cross slide which is the x axis we have the graduated dial right here or you could use an indicator so you have good control in all three directions all three axes by the means that I just explained to you or of course you can just go by a layout line which would be the easiest I would suggest if possible that you limit your work to relatively small pieces but if you have a longer piece or a larger piece and say this something like this you really need to limit that because there's just too much hanging out of the vise and the work is going to vibrate and possibly even break the cutter it might be possible to do that I haven't tried it but on a longer piece like this you also could clamp that down a mill a portion of it within the range or limits of your cross slide then unclamp it and move it in other words do it in sections and that would give you a little bit greater capability but I would respectfully submit that you need to take light cuts slow feeds relatively slow spindle speed plenty of oil and everything that you can do to avoid chatter and and discouragement and using this but it but it can do certain jobs but it's not like a Bridgeport so to take that into account and under advisement in all of the setups and all of the work that you do on this and generally softer materials like aluminium brass and mild steel are going to be so much easier than if you have a piece of tool steel or stainless steel or something that is difficult to machine on really any machine and you sharp new cutters if possible now let me suggest this to you when you're holding and mills that really is not proper to hold a hardened end mill in a three jaw Chuck why because we have a hardened shank here and these are hardened jaws it just does not grip it and it can come loose and what often happens with a cutter and that is true of any machine is that the helix tends to want it to screw into the work and it'll happen so slowly and so insid you Islita may not notice it until your work is spoiled or all of a sudden your cut is so deep that then you have a crash or something like that so a three jaw Chuck is not the way to hold an end mill I really need to emphasize that and so how should we do with them and similarly and I hope this doesn't sound like I'm scolding you but a drill chuck is no good either and I'll tell you why first of all you're holding it in by a more steeper and that can loosen secondly we're back to the same thing here hardened cutter hardened drawers and it does not grip and it can work its way out but really the most important thing and this goes for the Bridgeport mill - if you are milling with this type of Chuck remember that the arbor is held into the chuck by a Jacob's taper and that is - that holds it fine for drilling in this direction but when you put pressure up against it like this it can the chuck can fall right off of the Jacobs taper so this also to me is a no-no some of that of course is my opinion and I've experienced all of this over the years so how should we hold it okay most of you are going to use one of the following methods or but first of all make sure you protect your thread and that can be done with this homemade one I've shown you how to do that or here's the commercially made one and remember if you ruin your thread here you pretty much have ruined the lathe tighten that down and we have a wrench to take that off and also when you take this off and we'll loosen the collar adapter I'm talking about kalus now so there's the collet adapter make sure that your spindle is clean when you put that in and hit that so you can use of one of these 3c kaulitz you may or may not have a set of these and I'll have to admit that these cost of king's ransom when including the drawbar so you may not have that you may not be able to afford it but there's a 3/8 collet and of course it has a a key way and you turn it until it lines up and then on the tail stock end we put the drawbar and turn that until the thread is engaged see it getting pulled in and then the cutter of course being held like that now if you do this hold the cutter as chalk it up as short as possible don't hang it out like that you're gonna break it and you're asking for trouble so in as far as you can and tighten it down real well now there still is the possibility with Kaulitz on any milling machine of again the cutter helix is screwing I'm gonna use the word screwing its way out into the work so that's always a possibility but probably a long shot with this type of college but let me show you what Sears and craftsman and all these companies really recommend for milling so this is what Sears and atlas recommended it and you'll find this in the old craftsman catalog these are end mill holder door tool holders that fit directly into the spindle now we'll get a number two or number three Morse taper in the spindle so this would fit directly into the spindle and notice there's a thread here and then this is a homemade drawbar they do have one but I didn't have it so this has just made out a threaded rod so that this will pull and get drawn into you must use a drawbar or this could work its way out as a remote possibility this one will work directly this is from Sears you can see it's a bit corroded I had to clean it up this is also from Sears or hatless I forgot this is a three-eighths also with the drawbar but if you have one of these you would have to use it in conjunction with this but this also could be used on the number of the six-inch Atlas lay so that that's probably what it was designed for but you have a sleeve it'll fit into the 12 inch there are the 10 inch so that is the correct way and then when you put an end mill in there that's what that little flat spot is for they call it a Weldon shank so line up the set screw with that and it's it can't pull out and these are very accurate there will be no run-out this is one that I made and it is in one of the in my archival video so that that's a homemade in mill holder before I was able to get these now if you were to buy this one let's say or come across it in the Sears catalog actually it's atlas this is the original Mouse Eaton box and in that a bit rusty but these are different adapter or sleeves that will allow you to hold different sized end mills notice your four sizes different size and mills in this holder so you only need one of these if you have a set of these in that little slot or hole of course is for this set screw so that's really the best way to hold it and the other thing is these do not stick very far out of the spindle of course the collet doesn't either but if if you're using chucks that will allow the end mill to be way hanging way way out and lacking rigidity so this is what I'm going to use in the brief demonstration and it won't won't be very long demonstration all to hold the end mill this is recommended now out of this book and I'm giving them credit so I don't violate any copyright and this McCarthy was my teacher at the University that wrote this book but looking here at this picture I want to talk briefly about climb milling and conventional milling you want to avoid climb milling with this attachment now I do it on the bridge board and sometimes I get a very fine cut I like it for finished light cuts but it is to be avoided on the attachment and I'll explain why as we go along here but this is climb milling this is conventional milling notice the rotation of the cutter is the same never run a cutter backwards you'll ruin it very quickly but in conventional milling the the work is fed in climb milling is just the opposite in other words the cutter is trying to climb up and over the work no good so this being the work this being the cutter cutter always running in the same direction if we're feeding in like this there is no chance of the work getting jerked in and and breaking the end mill or causing a havoc with conventional milling now climb milling is just the opposite with the work being fed in from this direction can you see that the cutter is trying to climb up over the work and what can happen is suddenly it'll jerk the free end play or the the backlash out of the work so you'll get that movement maybe not that quantity but that can break the end mill or shatter it or give you a bad mark in the work because we cannot totally control all the backlash and a lighter Duty machine like this so do avoid at all costs climb milling and you might have to just learn that by experience if this doesn't make much sense to you continuing to talk just a little bit about climb milling remember that this is backlash can you see that moving that's the play and the nut and the screw some of that can be taken up by tightening the Gib screws and that for certain operations using this little attachment you may even want to tighten one of the gibs in other words to lock it in that direction if you're not feeding in that direction similarly here on the cross feed up here or I should call it vertical feed we will have some play in in this there's always going to be some play in the Gibbs so you can snug those up but if you Snug it too much of course this is difficult to turn but in a large milling machine like the Bridgeport the entire table is so massive that it takes quite a bit of force to jerk that backlash out of there so that backlash will be one of your constant nemesis when you use this attachment so I have tightened up the drawbar on the far end I won't show that and I've protected the thread and we've got a half inch end mill in there and I'm at about six or seven hundred rpm and you can look up the RPM and in various charts I don't want to get into that now but don't run it too fast or you can burn up your cutter and turn off the the feeds you probably will not want to use feeds so put your feed reverse lever here in neutral position and do not use power feeds this is half-inch round stock and I'm just gonna mill a little bit of a flat here to no particular dimension but once I I feed in and establish my depth of cut I will lock the carriage right here so that it doesn't get pulled in so keep your your wrench on that and and use your carriage lock whenever applicable ok I've raised or lowered this until I'm about on the center that is the center of the work is about on the center of tool and I'm just gonna feed away from me and I've already established a depth of cut then I can back it out and then crease the depth of cut by moving the carriage in just a little bit and I'm not using any oil at this time for clarity and that's going for nicely now with this size cutter I wouldn't be able to cut all the way across here because I would hit the vise if I wanted to make a flat all the way across the piece of stock I would use a smaller diameter end mill probably a 3/8 and that's what it looks like that's all the farther that I went in notice that I was holding it without the extra little jaw and I was in the the v-groove here because it was round stock and I'd held it nicely with these two set screws now I'm gonna square off the end of the round work and actually that's a facing operation we probably do on the lathe but I'm just showing you how to do it now and that it's kind of difficult to see and normally you have to get your head way back here and make sure you're wearing safety glasses and when I start feeding that is raising the work up into the cutter that will be conventional conventional milling if you did it the opposite direction that would be climb milling so let's see what this looks like we'll just take a late cut to square it off this is half inch aluminum it's a half inch cutter so it's not really quite wide enough to make it in one pass but notice how I'm holding and I got that other vise drawn on the vise you and I am at the end of the travel right now so I can't quite finish that up the work would have to be repositioned a little bit in the vise I am at the end of the travel so you can see there are certain limitations here on this machine this attachment and I brought the work back to the other position I couldn't go back the other way because then I would be climb milling so now I will lower the work into the cutter and take another tack and yes you do have to baby this a bit you may see a little vibration however it is a little bit sturdier and rigid than what I thought it would be and again I'm out of clever but it is satisfactory and it could take another couple passes in order to clean it up or to go to your layout line or whatever your dimension happens to be okay that's it this video is long enough I'm not going to show you any other operations you can refer to those other videos I showed you and near the beginning of this chapter so for the doing old key ways and different things like that so there are almost endless possibilities to using this but it'll all be smaller pieces of work light cuts and so on but it might very well get you by if you do not have the luxury of a Bridgeport mill well this concludes what is a very long video series and I'm happy with it I it turned out really a little better than what I thought I didn't know what to expect when I tackle this job if it could be rigid enough to do the work because it remember that the genuine atlas or Palmgren is not all that rigid either because it's always just a compromise between how much you can afford and and what you can do on a machine so that pretty much finishes what I wanted to show you here in the last two hours hope you liked the video and some of you if you would tackle this job send me pictures of it and I'd like to see what somebody might do with this so this is tubal-cain saying so long for now and I will see you in the next video you

Channel: mrpete222

Views: 23,448

Rating: 4.9633698 out of 5

Keywords: craftsman lathe, sears lathe, doall lathe, hardinge lathe, enco lathe, emco lathe, logan lathe, lyle peterson

Id: nAsgWwu4pOQ

Length: 22min 57sec (1377 seconds)

Published: Sun May 13 2018