In this video, I’m going to show you how
to use Lightroom CC. Hi, everyone! Welcome to this free Lightroom CC training
Course. My name is Jesus Ramirez, and you can find
me on Instagram @JRfromPTC. As you know, usually, this channel does video
tutorials on Photoshop. But Adobe just released this new completely
redesign version of Lightroom called Lightroom CC. Actually, the full name is Adobe Photoshop
Lightroom CC, so it still has Photoshop in the title. Before we get started, I would like to point
out a few things. First, you can watch this course in one of
two ways. By watching the single video that contains
all the chapters. Or you can go into my video playlist on YouTube
and watch each chapter on its own video. The link to the playlist in on the description. Also, the only payment that I ask from you
is that you hit that subscribe button and notification bell. And to please share this course with your
friends. Ok, let’s get started! I would like to start out this course by first
explaining that there are two versions of Lightroom. There’s Adobe Photoshop Lightroom CC. That is new photography service designed to
be a cloud-based ecosystem of apps that are deeply integrated and work together seamlessly
across desktop, mobile, and web. That means that they all have pretty much
the same layout. And if you make an adjustment to a photo on
one of these apps, it will automatically get upgraded across the entire ecosystem. The Lightroom that you know from before has
now been rebranded as Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic CC. And Lightroom Classic is exactly as you remember
it. It’s the old file-to-folder based workflow
that many photographers are using. As opposed to the cloud-native service of
Lightroom CC. In this course, we will focus on the cloud-based
service, Lightroom CC. The first step is to import the raw files
that we will use in this training video. To import the files. You can click on this Plus icon then click
on Browse. I’m going to load these files into Lightroom. you can hold Shift and click on the first
and last photo to select them all, then click on the review for import button. In the review import window, make sure that
all files are selected. The photos should have this blue circle with
a white checkmark. Also, the “Add to album” option, should
be set to “None.” We will discuss Albums in a moment. Then, Press the blue button. The photos will be imported into Lightroom,
and you will see them in the Filmstrip on the bottom part of the application frame. Also, these files are currently being uploaded
to the cloud. So, you could also edit them on your Lightroom
Mobile App, and in Lightroom Web. Before we go any further, I would like to
explain to you, how these files are organized inside of Lightroom. Click on the “My Photos” icon. This panel will expand, and it contains your
albums, folders, and all the photos that are synched to your Lightroom CC account. You can see the photos we just imported, here
in the recently added tab. Lightroom organizes photos using albums and
folders. Currently, I have four albums. Including one that has all my photos shot
with the Lightroom Mobile app. I don't have any folders yet,
but I'm going to explain what they are in a moment. First, let’s create a new album where we
will keep the photos for this training video. Click on this plus icon .
The select “Create Album.” Name this album “Lightroom CC Training.” Check this box to include any selected photos. In this case, I only have one photo selected. Click on “Create,” and Lightroom will
create the new album and include the selected photo. Then you can you can simply select and drag
the other photos into the Lightroom CC Training album. When you see blue highlight, you can release,
and those photos will be added into to that album. An Album is a collection of Photos, and it
cannot contain other albums. Lightroom CC also has folders. I don’t have any yet, so I will make one
now. Click on the plus icon, and select “Create
Folder.” I’m going to name this folder, “Vacation.” Tap on the “Create” button. You can now use this folder to organize your
albums by simply dragging albums into it. For example, you can drag the England, Mexico
City, and Sydney albums into it. Now I have a folder called “Vacation,”
that contain three albums inside of it. You cannot add an album inside of another
album, and you cannot add photo into folders without an album. However, you can add a folder inside of a
folder. If I create a new folder and name it 2017,
representing the year where I took those vacations, Then click on create
you can drag the 2017 folder into the vacation folder. Then I can drag the England album into it. Because I took that vacation in 2017. As you can see you can have multiple nested
folders inside of a single folder. You can drag a folder out, and it will no
longer be a nested folder. And you can drag albums out of folders. You can delete a folder, by right-clicking
on it and selecting “Delete Folder.” Anything that we do inside of the Lightroom
CC desktop app will be synchronized to Lightroom mobile and Lightroom web. So, you can work with these folders, albums,
and photos from anywhere. Now that we have images to work with let’s
look at the Lightroom CC interface. You’ve seen the import button and the “My
Photo” panel that contains all the phots, albums, and folders. You’ve seen the Filmstrip. Below the Filmstrip, you have different options
of viewing the photos in it. To select a view, you can click on its corresponding
icon, or use a keyboard shortcut. When you hover over a button, Lightroom CC
gives you a tooltip displaying its name and the keyboard shortcut if it has one. The first view is the Photo Grid, then you
have Square Grid, and the Detail Grid which is default. You can sort the images, by capture date,
import date, modified date, and star rating. You can reverse the order of the sort by selecting
this option. You can also flag your photos. This Let’s Lightroom know which photos you
like and which photos you want to reject. The Z key flags a photo as picked, and the
X key flags a photo as rejected. You can also give your images a star rating
from 0 to 5. You can use a keyboard shortcut to assign
a star rating. Simply press a number key between 0 and 5. So, if I press one on the keyboard – that
gives this photo a one star rating and doing so displays overlay on the screen. I can press 5 on the keyboard to give this
photo 5 stars. On the bottom right-hand side of the application
frame, we have the different zoom levels. Fit fits the image on screen. So Lightroom will zoom out to reveal the entire
image. No matter how large it is. Fill, fills the image on screen by its width. If your photo is too tall, you will have to
pan up and down to see those areas. One to one shows us a 100% view of the image. The actual size. This is the view that you want to work in
when you make adjustments in the Detail panel. And I’ll explain why, when we discuss the
Detail panel. Then we have the “Hide Filmstrip” button;
you can click on it to hide it or You could press the / key to enable or disable
the filmstrip. That is the same key as the question mark. The show original icon is the last on the
list. If you tap on this icon, you will disable
all adjustments, and you will see the original version of the photo. The Info icon reveals information about your
photo. For example, this photo was shot with a mobile
device using the Lightroom Mobile camera, and GPS was enabled. So, you can see exactly where this photo was
taken. You can also add keywords or tags to your
photo. Keywords help you organize your images. In the top center, you have the search bar,
and this is a smart search bar that looks through the visual contents of your photo. I have not tagged or added any keywords to
the photos that I have uploaded to Lightroom cc. But if I type a keyword search, such as “cat.” Lightroom CC will return photos that it thinks
are of cats. Lightroom CC does an excellent job finding
photos that match my query, but it is not 100% accurate. It also brought in a photo of a squirrel. But as you can see Lightroom analyzes the
contents of the image, so even if you don't add any keywords to your photos you can use
the search to find the images that you're looking for. Also, keep in mind that Lightroom searches
through the album or folder that you have selected. Notice that as I click on the different albums,
the label in the search bar changes. You can refine your search by taping on this
icon. You can refine it by, star ratings, flags,
photos or video, keywords, cameras used, these are the different types of cameras that I've
used to shoot the photos that have been uploaded Lightroom. And the locations of where my photos were
shot. On the top right-hand side, you have a share
button. This is how you would save your image as a
jpg after you adjust it. We will discuss exporting photos later in
this training video. The cloud icon shows you your cloud storage. And the different ways that you can connect
into Lightroom CC. You can click on these links to download the
mobile apps or to login into Lightroom Web. By clicking on this link, the browser opens
my Lightroom CC web account. You can see the folders we created and the
photos we imported. If we had made an adjustment, we would also
see them applied to the photos on here. Any adjustments that we applied from the web
app will also be reflected in the desktop app. I’m going to close the browser and go back
into the Lightroom CC desktop app. Notice that the changes I made in the Lightroom
CC web app are reflected in the Lightroom CC desktop app. Finally, on the far right-hand side, you have
the editing tools. This is where you will spend most of the time
in this training video. Edit Photos Let’s now look at how to develop photos
in Lightroom CC Open the Venice Image, by going into “My
Photos” and open the Lightroom CC Training album. Inside of this album, you will see the photos
that we imported. Select the Venice photo. To have more room to work with, I’m going
to disable the refine search options. And collapse the folders and albums panel
by tapping on the “My Photos” button. We’re going to start by making tonal and
color adjustments. You can make these changes through the Edit
panel. You can access the Edit panel by tapping on
the first icon on the list. And it will reveal the options available to
you to develop your photo. Editing in Lightroom CC is straightforward. You can just go down this list and make the
changes that your image needs. It is not required for you to go down the
list in order. You can start from the bottom and work your
way up if you wish, or you can start anywhere you like. However, in my opinion, it makes a lot more
sense start on top, and work your way down. And that is what we will do in this training
video. Open the Light panel, by tapping on it. The “Light” panel will give you control
over how much light there is in your photo. In other words, it gives you control of the
luminance values. How dark or how bright the tones appear in
this image. The six sliders in this panel control different
aspects of luminance. The best thing about Lightroom CC is that
you do not have to memorize what each of these sliders does. You can simply hover over any of the labels
of each slider, and Lightroom CC will display an animation and description of what the slider
does. In this case, the Exposure controls the brightness
of your photo. To change the brightness, you can simply drag
the slider left or right. All the sliders in Lightroom CC work the same. Dragging to the left reduces. And Dragging to the right increases. In the case of the Exposure slider, dragging
to the left decreases the light in the photo. Making it darker. Dragging to the right increases the light
in the photo. Making it brighter. You could also adjust your photo by ending
a numerical value in the input box, or by activating the input box and using the up
and down arrows in the keyboard to increase or decrease the value. Holding Shift allows you to change the values
in increments of 10. You could also hover over a slider and use
the up and down arrow keys on your keyboard to adjust it. by default, when you hover over a slider and
tap on the arrow keys, you move in increments of 5. To move in increments of one, hold the Alt
key. That’s option on the Mac. To move in increments of 10, hold the shift
key. This technique is great for when you are on
a plane or train, and you are editing photos, and you can’t use your Wacom tablet or mouse
to be precise. With the exception of Contrast, by holding
Alt/Option on the Mac, all the sliders in this panel show you an overlay indicating
when you clip the image. That means that the overlays shows you when
areas become pure white or pure black and lose all detail. To reset the slider to default, you can double
click on the circle or hover over the adjustment label and double click on it. If you adjust multiple sliders, and you would
like to reset the entire panel, then hold Alt option on the mac. And notice how all the panel labels have now
become reset buttons. You can just click on “reset lighting,”
and all sliders in this panel are set to default. You may be used to working with the Histogram
to edit your photos; you can enable it in Lightroom CC by going
into the three dots icon, and selecting “Show Histogram.” You could also use the Keyboard Shortcut Ctrl
0. That’s command 0 on the Mac. Also, notice that most of these options have
a keyboard shortcut. So remember the ones that you use most often. The histogram is a graphical representation
of the tonal values of your photo. On the left-hand side, you have the shadows,
midtones are in the center, and the highlights are to the right. As you can see most of the data in this image
is in the highlights. We can now start adjusting this photo. Just like in Lightroom Classic, Lightroom
CC has an Auto Tone adjustment button. In some cases, this is all that you will need
to use to adjust the tonality of your photos. You could also use this auto adjustment as
a starting point. In this training video we’re going to do
it all manually, so hold Alt/Option on the Mac and reset the Light panel. And of course, photo adjustments are all subjective,
the point of this video is to show you the feature of Lightroom CC, so we will spend
more working with the tools rather than the look of the final photo. I recommend to always start with exposure,
but in this case, we really do not need to make exposure adjustments. So, we will move on to the Highlights. Drag the highlight slider to the left to make
the brighter tones of the image darker, which will reveal more detail in the highlights. Then Drag the Shadows slider to the right
to make the darker tones brighter. This will reveal more detail the shadows. Then you can decide how bright the whites
should be. Drag them to the left to make them darker. Make the Blacks darker by dragging the slider
to the left. Now that we are done adjusting the “Light”
of this image, we can start improving color. Click on the Color Panel to expand it. Before we continue, I would like to advice
you to enable a feature that could make Lightroom CC a little less confusing. If you open panels, without closing the previous
panel, the interface could become cluttered, and it can cause confusion, especially if
you are a new user. But there is an option that you can enable,
to avoid this problem. Go into three dots for more options. And select “Single-Panel Mode.”
single panel mode allows you only to have one panel open at a time. If you open another panel, the previous panel
will automatically close. Now let’s work with the Color Panel. As the name suggests, the Color panel allows
you to work with color. But before we start working with color, let
me show you how easy it is to create and edit black and white photos. You can make your photo black and white by
clicking on this Black and White icon. This also turns the color mixer into a black
and white mixer. The Black and white mixer gives you these
sliders that control the luminance values of the original colors. For example, you can drag the Blue slider
to the left, and it will make anything that was initially blue darker, such as the water
and the sky. I can also make the water and the sky brighter
by dragging the blue slider to the right. And of course, you could fine-tune all these
sliders to create a great-looking black and white photo. And just as a side note, holding alt or Option
on the Mac, does not give you an overlay with any of the sliders in this panel. Not even when you are working with color. You can reset Black and white Mixer by holding
Alt, Option on the Mac, and clicking on reset Then click on B&W icon to convert the photo
back into color. And that brings back the Color Mixer. We will start at the top. The first setting that you will notice in
the Color panel is the white balance which helps you remove color casts. A color cast is an unwanted tint in the photo
due to the lighting, the white balance of the camera, or the lighting conditions when
you shot your photo. Lightroom CC provides you with white balance
presets that can help you to easily remove a color cast. In other words, to neutralize the grays. You want to make sure that there are no color
cast on the neutral grays so that the photo look natural. I have an image here that has a pretty bad
yellow color cast, so let me show you how this control works with that image. I’m going to select it from the Filmstrip. For this photo you can try, one of the presets. But I think that the White Balance Selector,
the eyedropper, will work best. We cause use the eyedropper to manually select
a color that should be a neutral gray and neutralize it with one click. For example, this area of the image should
be a neutral gray. It should not have a yellow color cast. Tap on this area to apply the adjustment. And Lightroom CC will automatically cool this
image and neutralize the grays. The eyedropper made changes to both Temperature
and Tint to adjust the white balance. That is my preferred method of neutralizing
a photo. But you can make manual adjustments by adjusting
the temperature and tint sliders independently. I’m going to go back into the Venice Photo. And I can do drag the Temperature slider to
the left introduce blue, and it makes the image colder. Dragging to the right, introduces yellow,
making the image warmer. The Tint slider controls the balance between
green and magenta. But in this case, I’ll change the white
balance to “As shot” since this photo does not contain any outstanding white balance
issues. Now let’s talk about saturation. The following sliders control the Saturation
of your photo but in two very different ways. Vibrance is a way of adding controlled saturation. It will add more saturation to colors that
have less saturation, and it will protect colors that are already highly saturated. In portraits, Vibrance will also protect skin
tones. Saturation simply adds saturation to all pixels
equallly. One of the best ways to add saturation to
a photo is by first adding Vibrance. Then, if you need a boost in saturation to
all the colors in the photo, you can add Saturation as well. But try to keep Saturation to a minimum, and
only use it after you have applied Vibrance. The Color Mixer allows you to select any of
these colors, and adjust its hue, saturation, and luminance. Select Blue, and drag the Luminance slider
to the left, to make these areas darker. Or you can brighten those areas up by dragging
the Luminance slider to the right. You can also adjust the saturation and the
hue of the blues. You can, of course, apply the same types of
adjustments for any of the other colors. This is the default view, which I think is
the best view, but there are other views that you can use to adjust the Hue, Saturations,
and Luminance. Select Luminance from the drop-down, and adjust
the Blue slider. Notice that when you come back into the “Color”
view, the settings for blue have been adjusted. Both views control the same settings, but
they are represented in two different ways. I think the default view is much better because
it allows you to select the color and make adjustments in a much quicker way. Now that I have adjusted the Light and Color
of my photo, we will move on to different kinds of corrections. The Effects panel gives you control over Clarity, Dehaze, and Vignette. The first adjustment in this panel is Clarity
which adds contrast to edge pixels. This effect can really make your images and
pop and stand out. However, with portraits remember keep the
Clarity to a minimum since it can damage skin tones. Dehaze removes haze from photos. This photo does not have much haze, but I
will open this photo from a Rain Forrest in Costa Rica, with a lot of haze. By dragging the Dehaze slider to the right,
you will remove the haze that is found in this image. You can also Hold Alt Option on the Mac as
you drag to reveal clipped dark pixels. Those are the areas that have lost all detail
and are now pure black. Vignette, allows you to add a vignette to
your photo. Dragging the Vignette slider to the left makes
a black vignette. Dragging to the right makes a white vignette. I also want to point out that this is the
first slider that also has extra options. That is what this light gray arrow in a dark
box represents. If you click on it, you will expand the extra
options for this slider. These extra option sliders, unfortunately,
do not have an animated tool tip explaining how they work like the parent slider. Feather allows you to set how blurry the edge
of the vignette is. You can adjust the midpoint to determine how
far the vignette edges get to the center of your photo. Roundness controls how round the vignette
is. The Highlights slider controls the highlights
that will pop through the dark vignettes. In this photo, it is more noticeable in the
sky. If you reset your Vignette to slider, it will
disable the extra options. Next, select the Detail panel. This panel allows you to increase the sharpening
of your image, reduce noise, and add film grain. When working on this panel, I recommend working
in the 1:1 view. This allows you to view the actual size of
the photo. You’re viewing it at 100%, and it will give
you a better representation of the changes that you make with the adjustments in the
Detail panel. Start by increasing the Sharpening. If you hold Alt option the Mac and click on
that slider, it will hide the color. Sometimes it's easier to see the sharpening
effect that you are applying if there is no color distracting your eye. Sharpening also has extra options. To reveal the options, click on this arrow. Radius
Adjusts the size of the details that sharpening is applied to. Photos with fine details generally need a
lower setting. Images with larger details can use a larger
radius. But never push the radius too far since it
can result in unnatural-looking edges. Hold Alt, Option on the Mac, as you drag to
see an overlay that shows you how the adjustment is affecting your photo. Detail
Adjusts how much high-frequency information is sharpened in the image and how much the
sharpening process emphasizes edges. Lower settings primarily sharpen edges to
remove blurring. Higher values are useful for making the textures
in the image more pronounced. Once again holding Alt, Option in the Mac,
as you drag reveals an overlay that shows you the edges affected. Masking
Controls an edge mask. With a setting of zero, everything in the
photo receives the same amount of sharpening. With a setting of 100, sharpening is applied
mostly to areas near the strongest edges. Press Alt or Option on the mac while dragging
to reveal a great visual representation of how this slider works. Anything that is white will receive the sharpening
effect, and anything that is black will not be sharpened. Much like a layer mask in Photoshop, white
reveals, and black conceals. And of course, we’re hiding or revealing
the sharpening effect. Next, we have Noise reduction
This image has very little noise, so I’m going to open a different Image. This photo of London has a lot more noise,
and it will do a better job showing us how this adjustment works. You can reduce the noise in this photo dragging
the Noise Reduction slider to the right. Holding Alt, Option on the Mac as you drag
removes that color so that the adjustment is easier to see. This also true for the extra option sliders
nested under the Noise Reduction adjustment. I’m going to click on this icon to expand
it and reveal those extra options. Detail controls the luminance noise threshold. Meaning, how much detail do you want in the
blurred noise. Higher values preserve more detail but can
produce noisier results. Lower values produce cleaner results but may
also remove some detail. Contrast
helps you to regain any contrast loss that might have occurred by increasing sharpening. This photo contains no color noise, but you
could use this slider to remove the color noise in your photos. The extra options are
Color Detail It Controls the color noise threshold. Lower values remove color speckles but can
result in color bleeding. Higher values protect thin, detailed color
edges but can result in color specking. Smoothing
Adds a softening effect to the speckled color tones. The Grain Slider Adds a film grain effect
to the image. Holding Alt or Option on the Mac does not
do anything as you drag. The extra options are pretty self-explanatory. Size controls how big the grains are and
Roughness controls the regularity of the grain. Basically, how rough or smooth the surface
appears. Open the optics panel. Optics gives you two options. Remove Chromatic Aberration and Enable Lens
Corrections. I’m going to go to the Film Strip and open
the Venice image and zoom into this area here. Check “Remove Chromatic Aberration, ” and
you'll see how the color outlines are removed. Chromatic aberration is usually shown as a
magenta or a green glow around the edges in your photo. Chromatic aberration is a common problem in
lenses, which occurs when the colors are incorrectly refracted, bent, by the lens, resulting in
a mismatch at the focal point where the colors do not combine as they should. as a result, the image can look blurred or
contain noticeable color edges. Especially in high contrast areas. I’m going to fit the image to screen so
that you can see it all. then I'm going to select “Enable lens corrections.” Which corrects distortions in common camera
lenses. If you're working with a RAW file, Lightroom
CC will know the camera and lens that you used to shoot your photo based on metadata. And it will use a lens profile to compensate
accordingly with any lens distortions and lens vignetting. You can tap on this icon to reveal the extra
options. Distortion Correction and Lens Vignetting
both allow you to customize the correction applied by the profile. The default value for both is 100 which is
what the profile indicates as the proper compensation. But you can reduce or increase that compensation
applied by the profile with these sliders. I find that the default settings usually give
me a good result. Finally, we have the Geometry Panel. The Geometry Panel allows you to remove perspective
distortions. This panel works great in photos with crooked
horizons or buildings with vertical and/or horizontal lines that aren't straight. In this photo, there's not a lot of distortion. So, the change will be subtle, but I will
open a different photo that will give you a much more dramatic result. Lightroom CC has four Upright modes that you
can use to automatically fix perspective ─ Auto, Level, Vertical, and Full. I always try Auto first, since Lightroom CC
does a fantastic job figuring out the adjustments that photos need. But try the other as well in case you find
something you like. After applying an Upright mode, you can adjust
the image further by manually modifying the sliders below. They are self-explanatory, so I will not go
through each one. You could also use the Guide Upright Tool
to draw two or more guides to straighten horizontal and vertical lines. You can simply click and drag lines that follow
lines along your image, and Lightroom CC will automatically make the adjustment. I’m going to go back into the Image we have
been working all along this training video. By the way, you can press the backslash key
to see the original photo. And press the backslash key again to see the
edited photo. As you can see, this is a much better-looking
image, and it was all accomplished by dragging a few simple sliders. Below the Edit panel, you have the Crop tool. You can press C to enable it or click on the
Crop tool icon. This tool works as you would expect. You can click and drag on the corner handles
to crop the image. As you’re cropping, you can also rotate
the image by dragging the Straighten slider. Or press the Auto button to attempt to straighten
the horizon. Also, you can rotate the Crop Overlay, by
clicking on this icon. Which is labeled as the “Crop aspect”
and even though the yellow tooltip that shows up when you hover over this icon, does not
show a keyboard shortcut, you can press X on the keyboard to rotate the Crop aspect. That is actually a photoshop keyboard shortcut
that I tried here in Lightroom CC, and it worked. You can also apply a pre-defined crop aspect
ratio. By clicking on the Aspect dropdown and selecting
any of these options. When you select any of these option, notice
that the lock icon locks. Which means that the aspect ratio is locked. So, clicking on this icon will lock the aspect
ratio. And that becomes useful when you manually
set a crop ratio. You can also rotate and flip the image by
using these 4 icons. By the way, there is a reset crop button here. If you hold Alt Option on the Mac, the label
does NOT become a reset button like they do in the Edit panel. Also, the reset does not affect the Rotate
or Flip adjustments. To apply the crop, Hit the Enter or Return
on the Mac. The next tool is the Healing Brush tool, which
you can access by pressing H on the keyboard. This tool allows you to paint directly over
an object that you would like to remove. The Heal tool matches the texture, lighting,
and shading of the sampled area to the selected area. The Heal tool works on a raw image which means
that you are processing the raw image data directly. and it can provide cleaner matches. Also, since any edits and modifications to
raw images are stored in sidecar files, this process is non-destructive. You can use the slider or the bracket keys
on the keyboard to adjust the size of the brush. Feather is how hard or soft the edges of the
brush are. In most cases, it’s a good idea to have
some feathering on your brush to avoid hard noticeable brush strokes. Notice that as I drag over the previous sliders,
a brush overlay appears that shows how the brush is affected. The Opacity controls how much of the adjustment
is visible. You can simply paint over any distracting
element, and Lightroom CC will find an area to sample from to remove it. If the correction is not what you expected,
you can then drag the sample area and reposition it to sample from somewhere else. That will give you a different result. Also, with the adjustment active, you can
use the feather and opacity sliders to adjust the heal even after you applied it. To delete an adjustment, select it, and press
the backspace key that’s delete on the Mac. There is another mode for this tool. Which is the Clone Tool, and it simply clones
pixels from one area to another. And the sliders are the same as the Heal Mode. Next on the list is the Brush tool, you can
access it by pressing B on the keyboard or by clicking on the Brush tool panel icon. The Brush Tool allows you to make targeted
adjustments by painting directly over the photo. Any adjustments to these sliders will be applied
to the areas that you paint on. Start by making your brush larger; you can
use the right bracket key on your keyboard. Then paint over your photo. You will see no changes. and that is because we have not adjusted anything. I will make a few extreme adjustments so that
you can better see how it works. This tool also has extra options. Click on the arrow to expand the extra options
panel. Feather blurs the edge of the brush. Flow Controls the rate of application of the
adjustment. Density Controls the amount of transparency
in the stroke. The Auto Mask Confines brush strokes to areas
of similar color. If I check that box, notice that when I pain
over this area, it does not affect the objects outside of it. If you make a mistake and would like to remove
your adjustment from a specific area, use the erase option. Enable it, and start erasing away the adjustments. You could also hold Alt Option on the Mac
as you paint to activate the eraser temporarily. To create a separate adjustment, click on
the plus icon, and start painting. This adjustment will be independent from any
others. Notice the blue dots. These are the separate adjustments. To completely delete an adjustment, right-click
on the blue dot representing the adjustment and select “delete.” Or select it by clicking on it and pressing
the Backspace key which the delete key on the Mac. The next two tools work very similarly to
the Brush tool, they are both targeted adjustment tools, but are instead of painting, you click-and-drag
to create gradients that adjust the photo. The first is the Linear Gradient. Press the L Key to enable it. You click and drag to create the linear gradient. That applies the same effect we had with the
Brush tool. You can, of course, make any adjustments that
you like with the sliders. To flip the gradient, tap on Invert, and it
flips it over. To delete it, you can simply hit the Backspace
key on the keyboard that’s the delete key on the mac. The next adjustment is the Radial Gradient. Press R to enable it. This tool is very similar to the previous
one. It does the same thing but with round gradient
instead of a liner one. You could use it to create bright highlights. Maybe even the sun glares. Notice that my Invert button is checked. By default, it is not, so if your radial gradient
is affecting the outside of the circle, then enable the invert checkbox. Delete the Radial Gradient by pressing the
Backspace key on the keyboard that’s the Delete key on the mac. Finally, we have Presets. Click on Presets to expand the preset panel. Before I show you how to use the presets,
I’m going to disable Single-Panel mode. Then open the Light panel and the Color panel. Because I want you to see, that the presets
are simply adjusting the sliders in these panels. They are “pre-setting” the sliders to
create an effect. You can open a preset panel category. And hover over the different presets to see
how they affect the photo On the right-hand side, you can see how the
sliders on the light and color panel are changing as I hover over the presets. To apply anyone of these effects, you can
simply click on it, and it will be applied to your photo. You could also refine the presets by adjusting
the sliders in the Light and Color panels. You can click on the three dots in the preset
panel. And select “create preset” to make a preset
out of the current look of the image. In other words, Lightroom will remember the
position of the sliders. You can give your preset a name, and once
you click save, it will be placed under “User Presets.” Now that we’ve completed editing our image,
I’m going to show you how to export it as a JPG or take it into Photoshop. You can click on this Export icon here. And then select Save To. This brings up the Save window, and you can
select the file type. You have the options of JPG and Original plus
settings. A Location. And select the size. By default, it’s set to Small. You can set it to Full Size, which is the
actual size of the image. Or you can do a custom size. You can enter a pixel dimension for the longest
size, and click on save and a JPG file will be saved into your computer. You could also take this photo into Photoshop
by going into File, Edit in Photoshop. And this is going to edit the image inside
of Photoshop. Now Lightroom needs to stay open while you
make your edits in Photoshop to allow your edits to transfer back into Lightroom CC. And for that to happen you have to close your
photo in Photoshop. Now I don’t want to take my image into Photoshop,
so I’m just going to OK. It will open the photo in Photoshop, but I’m
going to come back into Lightroom. And I want to show you one other thing. That you can share to Facebook. The first time that you try to do this, you
will have to enter your Facebook credentials, but you can enter a description in this box,
and select an Album where you want the photo to be shared. And then click on the Share button to share
this photo onto Facebook. So those are the exporting options that you
have in Lightroom CC. And that’s it for this beginners training
course of Lightroom CC. If this is your first time vising the Photoshop
training channel, then don’t forget to click on that Subscribe button and that notification
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this training course was valuable to you. Also, if you know someone who would benefit
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talk to you again soon!
