Mastering Lightroom Classic CC: 1 - Quick Start

hey guys this is Anthony Morgan T from online photography training.com welcome to my video series and mastering Lightroom classic CC I suspect that many of you have never heard of me my website or my youtube channel so in this the first video of this new video series I just wanted to quickly give you some background information about me I became a professional photographer in 1980 I actually worked for two different professionals I was their assistant their apprentice their second shooter for a couple of years then in 1982 I broke off on my own and I created or started my own photography business called creative edge photography here in the Buffalo New York area I've been teaching photography for about 15 years and online for almost five years and this will be my fourth video series on Lightroom now my thing is all my videos are free they're always going to be free I will never charge for a video series or offer some content for free and the more advanced content will be a fee everything's always free and I'm able to do that because many people donate to me they buy my presets I sell a lot of presets for different products profiles I sell the raw files for this video series I do have some other stuff I sell and there'll be information for all that stuff in the description below this video now as far as Lightroom is concerned I mentioned that this is my fourth video series on Lightroom and it will be my most extensive and involved video series this first video though may frustrate some of you I like to call it QuickStart because I know many of you don't need to watch all 30-odd videos of the video series you just want to get the highlights of the program down see the things you should be doing and then you're gonna experiment on your own well that's what this video is for others may just want to get an idea whether or not the program is for them and again that's what this first video is for now one thing to be aware about Lightroom is you cannot just like put an image and start working on it you have to really import your images into Lightroom so to begin with I am showing you my desktop and over here on the right hand side you can see that I have an x QD memory card already plugged into my computer typically that's what you would do you would be taking pictures you would pull out your memory card plug it into the computer and/or plug your come your camera into your computer then you would open up Lightroom now in my case just let me say real quick I just threw some images on this card I didn't actually just go out today and take these images these are actually kind of old but it's gonna serve our purpose now we're gonna open up Lightroom and when you open up Lightroom for the first time this is what you're gonna see you don't have any any images in Lightroom so it's going to be pretty much blank what you need to be aware is along the top are the different modules of Lightroom the first two module is the library and develop modules where you're gonna spend most of your time the library module is the digital asset management module Lightroom that's where you're going to have your images that's where you're gonna move them from folder to folder you're gonna maybe edit the metadata your images you're gonna delete images stuff like that you're going to do that all in the library module next to that we have the develop module and that's we're gonna actually process our images and we're gonna do that in a minute then beyond that we have some modules that are very unique to Lightroom the map module book module slideshow module print module and web module and I will have individual video videos on all those modules in the future now on the left and right are the panels the panels are unique to the module you're in so they're gonna change the information on these panels will change from module to module one thing to be aware that within the panels our sub panels they're also called tabs you'll hear me refer to them both ways for example while we're in the library module we have this quick developed tab or sub panel keywording tab or sub panel and so far you know so forth so they're all these sub panels and on the left hand side similarly we have sub panels as well along the bottom is the filmstrip this is once we have images in Lightroom they're gonna show up on the bottom in this filmstrip and you could use the arrow keys on your keyboard to move from image to image and when you have an image elected it will render in the middle so you'll see what were you doing now as I mentioned we have to get some images in here so we have to import them into Lightroom if you're in the library module it's super easy in the bottom left hand corner you have an import button just click on that you could import if you're in any of the other modules that import button won't be there in that case go up to the top file menu and go down to import photos and video and you can see there's a keyboard shortcut and you can see there's a lot of keyboard shortcuts there's probably hundreds of keyboard shortcuts in Lightroom and they do make life a lot easier if you learn them I do have a listing of all the keyboard shortcuts in Lightroom available on my website again there'll be a link for that below this video so we're gonna import the photos off this card so I'm going to just gonna click on that and the import dialog box comes up and we're gonna cover this import dialog box in depth in our very next video because there's a lot you could do right here but right now if you have a memory card in your computer or your camera is just plugged into your computer Lightroom should have found the images right away and you can see they're all listed right here and they have little checkmarks if the box is checked you're gonna import that image if the box is not checked you will not import that image so you could actually call your images right here if you wanted to if for some reason Lightroom didn't find your memory card you could go over to the left-hand panel and you could find it yourself drill down to where it is and then highlight it you might have to drill down to the folder on your memory card that contains the images and they'll show up here once you have the images showing in the middle at the top you have two different choices you could copy them as a DNG file or copy them as is typically I just copy them as is I shoot RAW files I shoot Nikon and Fuji mainly so you're gonna have in my case Nikon or Fuji raw files in this case these are Nikon files a lot of people like to convert them to D and G D Angie's kind of a universal raw file format that was invented by Adobe I'll have a video Mordy tell about that in the future move an ad is grayed out because you cannot do that from a memory card we'll talk about that more in the future and other things you could do over here in the future now the right hand panel is feature-rich there's a lot you could do here first of all at the top under file handling there are our previews what kind of previews do you want to build you can see there's four different ones minimal embedded in sidecar standard and one-to-one as you move from top to bottom the previews get bigger so if you're at minimal you're using the smallest preview possible it will take up the less least amount of desk disk space on your computer but it will take longer to render what I mean by that is if you're in any of the modules and you have that film strip along the bottom and you have one image selected and you use the arrow key to move to the next image or you use the mouse to click on a different image it will take the image longer to render into this middle area if you're using minimal if you're using one to one the render very quickly but they take up more disk space so I keep buying on standard usually so I'm gonna leave it there you can see when we're done it's going to import the images and then after the images are imported you'll see a progress bar in the top left-hand corner as in the background it's creating those standard previews so you could work while it's creating the previews it just takes a little longer for it to actually create them then we have a checkbox don't import suspected duplicates if you put an old memory card in here with images you already imported into Lightroom if this box is checked it'll have them all unchecked so that just guards you against importing images twice you can make a second copy to a different location you could add it to a collection we'll talk about that in the future you could rename it as you're importing it we'll talk about that in the future there's two different things well they're technically three different things you could apply during the import process a develop setting or a metadata setting these are presets two different types of presets in Lightroom there's a developed setting preset those will actually your image I sell presets that with one click you hopefully will get a fully processed image well if you have a certain preset you really like you could actually do it during the import process I'm gonna leave it on not none here metadata is with me I have a pre sick I called import preset that puts in all my copyright info my name and address and all that stuff into the image you could also add keywords so in this case these were images taken at a zoo so I could add the keyword zoo and I could just hit enter and once I do that every image when it's imported will get that keyword edit entered to it or added to the metadata you could add more than one keyword just as you're typing them in put a comma in a space after each keyword below that is the destination where are we going to save these to now I happen to have a folder on my computer on an external hard drive so I have an external hard drive on this computer called photos that external hard drive I put a file outside of Lightroom I created a file called raw files you could call it anything you want you don't have to call it raw files you could call it Lightroom files you could call it you know Melinda's pictures you could call it anything you want it happens to be there what you would do is find it it happened to find it automatically but you may not it may not you have to go to the hard drive that it's on it's on my photos hard drive it's on right there that there and you can see how it's putting the date there are some options about how you want to save it do you want to save it by date or just into a folder so if I just wanted to go into this RAW files folder I could have it do that I could click this subfolder and I could call this Buffalo zoo and just like that it will put it into the raw files folder into the Buffalo zoo folder then I could also come in here and go by date so it will go raw files Buffalo zoo date so well talk about this more in the next video this actually probably isn't the best way to import your images into this type of fire file hierarchy this is the way I actually do it and I found out that it's not the best way to do it but we'll talk about that more in the future but for the sake of this demonstration I'm going to just do it that way when you're to this point you could import them now so they're going to be taken off or they're gonna be copied from they're gonna stay on the memory card they're just gonna be copied from the memory card to this external photos harddrive into this folder when I click import and you can see then we'll go to the library module and the as the images get imported they show up on the bottom on the filmstrip we have a progress bar in the left hand side in the top left hand corner and once they're completely imported the computer will make a ding noise you may not hear it through my microphone but once they're imported there's the ding now it's building the standard previews and again that does is done in the background so we could start looking at these images so we'll click on the first one and there's an eagle so we could just use the arrow keys and page through these images just like this and we can find one that we want to process so we could go through just very quickly now we're gonna get into culling and you know marking our images with different flags and color labels and all that in a future video so let's go through let's very quickly for the sake of this demonstration let's just pick an image kind of like that one so we're gonna do this Eurasian Lynx so we're gonna process this image so we're gonna go to the develop module just go up in the top left hand corner click on the develop module now we go over here now the panels are slightly different the phone strips the same we still have our images down here in the left-hand panel at the top we have the Navigator if you just click on it you'll zoom in on the image and you kind of move around and maybe you use this to look and see how the focus is on your image make sure nothing's blurry something like that below that are several more sub panels or tabs I'll get to these in the future one thing I want to point out right away though is the history tab you can see we have our import process listed there every processing step we do to our image will get listed in the history panel everything you do in Lightroom is non-destructive that means nothing is getting written directly to the image you're going to be editing your image and all those edits will be written into the Lightroom library and when you click on an image that was edited already you're going to load the unedited image into the preview screen but then Lightroom is gonna overlay on top of that all of your edits that you have listed and it's stored in the Lightroom library so it's totally non-destructive every step is preserved so you could go back let's say you did something you went down a rabbit hole and you didn't like it but ten steps before that it was perfect you could go back ten steps and go right to the spot where you liked it so that's where a program such as Lightroom is really beneficial to the photographer you're never right lean writing directly to your file you if you crop your image you will not be cropping away pixels it's just fantastic in that regard you're never gonna lose anything because your images always preserve the original raw file in this case so that's the Left panel over on the right panel we have tools we have a histogram first of all at the top and you can close these down with these little triangles those are called expose triangles so we have a histogram below that we have some tools we have a crop tool spot removal tool red eye tool a gradient or graduated filter tool that's one of the local adjustments the other local adjustment is the radial filter and next - that's the last local adjustment and that is an adjustment brush and what those you could like brush in contrast you could brush in noise reduction or you could use a gradient to make the sky darker or you could use the radial filter the vignette subject or something like that and we will cover all these tools in future videos this image I don't think we need to do anything with any of those tools we're gonna start with the basic panel now it doesn't matter you could you could jump anywhere you want you don't have to go to this basic sub panel or tab first you could do effects first if you want you can do detail first if you want it doesn't matter you could jump all around you do it at any order you want you don't have to do that move the sliders from top to bottom you can move those in any order you want everyone has their own way of doing this so I'm gonna obviously show you how I do things but make it work for you and see what works you know best for you now one thing I want to point out real quick and I want to say it in this first video if you do not have all these sub panels I get this email all the time most commonly people say I don't have a basic panel how could you process anything without this basic tab well right-click on any of them just go into this area right here and right click and you'll see this little menu pops up and you can see how all these sub panels have check marks next to them well if I click on this basic I removed that check mark so I actually removed that tab from this right-hand panel to get it back just right click and then click on it again and you'll get that tab back so if you're missing any of these tabs that's how you would get it back now we're gonna I start usually with the basic tab and along the top if I want to make it black and white I could do that right away right away where it's this treatment go back to color I'm gonna make this a color image or keep it a color image then we have different profiles profiles are how Lightroom will interpret or render color contrast tone throughout the image and it comes you know it's gonna usually come in with Adobe standard but if you click on this little like brick thing right here you have these different profiles that come with Lightroom so we could go to a monochrome profile landscape profile neutral profile portrait profile a vivid color profile whatever works for you also there's some color matching camera matching these or profiles that are specific to your camera the specific camera had flat landscape neutral portrait standard vivid now one thing to keep in mind every cameras different also a JPEG will be different than a raw file you won't have as many choices with the JPEG as you will with raw file or for with a tiff file you won't have as many either so that's why it's always better to shoot raw the raw image generally is flatter and not is handsome-looking out of the camera but there's so much more you could do with it so these are the profiles also you could pick profiles up from third parties Aysel profiles you can see there's more ganti landscape profiles if you want to get landscape looks to the to the links but those are profiles I'm just going to go with the profile that was defaulted to Adobe standard we'll do this more in future videos I know I keep saying that below that is white balance there's a lot different ways you could affect the light balance of your image one is this drop-down if you're shooting raw you'll have all these choices auto daylight cloudy collect cloudy and it gets warmer looking click shade it gets even warmer looking if you're not shooting raw you won't have those choices because the white balance gets baked into the other types of files like a JPEG we'll have the white balance cooked into it you won't be able to really easily switch it with that drop-down now you can switch light balance whether you're using JPEG TIFF or a raw file with these temperature sliders you could just move the temperature sliders alternately you have this little eyedropper you can click on that and you want to find something it's neutral gray in the image in the scene and then click on that and that will give you a white balance when you're done with this put it back by just returning it to this little holder right there so I'm going to go with a shot that's fine we're gonna cover this in excruciating detail in I think two more videos so look for that next seven slower six sliders are the tone slider so you're gonna affect tone with these sliders you could get an auto setting for all these sliders by clicking right here and it gives you an auto what Lightroom thinks these sliders should be set at also it will also give you an auto setting for the vibrance and saturation sliders they call it presence now if you don't want to use auto just you could undo it by hitting command Z or control Z that will bring you back one step that's command Z if you have a Mac control Z if you have a PZ that's Z as in zebra so we're back to where we are most of us don't like to use these auto settings or we're gonna use a piece of the auto setting and I'll talk to about that in a minute but this image is exposed properly so I don't really have to use the exposure slider but if you did you'd move it to the right to increase exposure move to the left decrease if you need to reset any slider back to its default position just double click on the name of the slider and you'll reset that slider back to its default position now contrast I usually add to the image but I'd like to add it a little later I don't do it right now so I'm gonna skip that one and come back to it next we have highly chattels whites and blacks everyone has their own way of doing this usually what I like to do is with the highlights and shadows slider I like to make the image flat so that means I'm gonna take the highlights and bring them more towards mid-tone and I'm gonna take the shadows and bring those more towards mid-tone and then I'll bring back contrast with the whites and the black slider and that usually works best for me so what I'm gonna do is in this case to follow along in that chain of thought I'm gonna go to this highlight slider and move it to the left so I'm gonna make the highlights darker and bringing them more towards mid-tone now how much should you bring it well it's really up to you some photographers bring highlights all the way down in shadows all the way up and when I initially was teaching Lightroom I taught beginners to do it that way because it actually works very well and it's an easy way to do it I encourage you to experiment see what works for you usually what I would do is Izu min on the brightest part of the image it looks like it's the cat's fur over here and then I'll bring the highlights down until I see detail and the fine hairs that when highlights was up at zero it looked just like a white blob but as I bring it down I'm starting to see those individual hair details right around there so that looks good then what I'll do I could just drag around by when I'm zoomed in by clicking in and look at the darker parts of the image and then I'll go to shadows and I'll move that to the right because I'm bringing those more towards mid-tones so I'm making the shadows brighter that's called opening up the shadows so you can see I move that to the right and it looks pretty good to me then to zoom back out just click on the image again and we'll zoom out so I made the image look relatively that I had now if you want to see a before and after or where you are in your processing hit the Y key on your keyboard you'll see the before on the left and the after on the right and you can see there's not a big difference on this shot hit the Y key again and we're back to our processed image now if you want to see a before-and-after in a different way and this won't work for everyone because not everyone has this key on their keyboard it's a backslash key if you click the black backslash key on your keyboard if you're lucky enough to have it you'll see the before and the after before after he cuz so you could see now I made it flat the before had a lot more contrast the after it's a lot flatter I mentioned I bring that contrast back with the whites and blacks sliders and with the contrast slider now as far as these whites and black sliders these are probably the two most difficult sliders for people to adjust in Lightroom there's a number of different ways you could do it you could get that kind of um partial I mentioned there's a partial auto adjustment you could do instead of clicking auto and have it adjust all of these sliders you could do it so it just adjusts whites and/or blacks to do that to get that auto adjustment hold the shift key in and double click on the word whites in this case and you can see it gave me that auto adjustment hold that shift key in and double click on the word blacks and that will give me that auto blacks adjustment so there's before and there's after so you could see how we're getting somewhere now there's the before image there's the after image with actually only these four sliders adjusted nothing else has been done to this image yet now there's another way you could adjust whites or blacks which is not quite Auto but it will help you maybe a just a white and black point that might be better for your scene than this auto adjustment I'm gonna reset them by double clicking on the words whites and blacks and for this adjustment what you need to do is hold in the alt or option key it's alt if you have a PC option if you have a Mac when you hold that key in and click on let's say whites you'll see the entire screen will turn black move that slider to the right and as you move it to the right you'll see colors start to bleed through you'll see red green blue and then ultimately you'll see white what that means is you're starting to clip those color channels when you see blue you're upping the blue color channel similarly if you see red or green you're clipping those color channels if you see white you're clipping all three color channels well what does clipping mean well that means that you're making the highlights so bright that once they clip you're losing all detail all the detail has been obliterated you just kind of voided them right out usually you don't want to do that so what you want to do is you want to take this hold that ultra option key and move this slider to the right till you see stuff start to bleed through then back it off until you get that totally black screen just barely that's a very good white point similarly for blacks hold that alt or option key and it's alt if you have a PC option if you have MEK click on that black slider this time the screen turned white and this time you're going to move the black slider to the left and then you'll see again red green and blue bleed through but you'll also now see black black is when you're clipping all three channels gonna move that and back it off and now in the case of animals and portraits of people I usually don't want any clipping at all so I'm gonna move those so there's no clipping at all in the case of a landscape image I like to clip the blacks a little bit it's for me at least I think it adds a little more depth to the scene so for me if I'm doing a landscape image I would hold the alt or option key and adjust whites just to the point where nothing is clipping and then I'll adjust blacks so just a little bit clips and then I'll look at it if I like it I like it if not then I'll move them alright so for this I like it now I'll jump back up to contrast and I'll add some contrast to the scene like that now to give you an idea I'll hit that backslash key there's before and there's after now below that we have these so-called presence sliders clarity D haze vibrance and saturation clarity adds what is called mid-tone contrast to the image when you move it to the right it's gonna look like you're making your image sharper it's a very very powerful slider be careful with it though you move it quite away but on some images if you move it too far you'll get some smearing specifically if you have let's say a very bright sky bright blue sky and you have a dark tree going up through that sky if you move clarity up too high the dark bark of the tree will start to blur and smear out onto the bright blue of the sky so you want to avoid that so you don't want to go too far with this slider even though you could kind of go pretty far so I think around 30 looks pretty cool below that is Dee haze if your took a landscape image and you have haze in the sky move this to the right to remove the haze move it to the left to add haze to your image in the case of a portrait or an animal shot it's up to you whether you want to do anything with this slider it doesn't hurt it I mean it's really up to your creative decision whether or not you want to move it I'm just gonna move its light +7 now vibrance and saturation I get questions all the time about vibrance and saturation what's the difference well vibrance will increase the saturation of every color in the image unless that color was already saturated so and it will also bring colors to saturation but not over saturate anything so vibrance will I guess easel is a little lighter handed than saturation because what saturation will do is it will saturate every color in your image and it will over saturate colors even if the color is already saturated to begin with it'll over saturate it even more so saturation is a little more heavy-handed the other thing with vibrance is it doesn't effect reds and Pink's as much so if you have a human in your picture with pink skin the vibrance slider might be a better choice because you won't be making their skin super red looking or increasing the vibrance of their skin so vibrance might be a better choice and just to demonstrate if I move vibrance around you could see how it affects the colors in the image now if I go over to saturation and I move that around you can see how it kind of does a little more this image isn't super colorful to begin with so I don't think it matters which of these sliders I move but um vibrance to the right I move it kind of high so we could see some color so plus 30 so there's before and there's after so you could see we're getting somewhere I'm not gonna move to saturation at all now below the basic sub panel or tab we have several more tone curve we're gonna cover we're gonna have a video where we cover this extensively we have the HSL color tab this is where you could really adjust just one color so if you want to just adjust the hue saturation or luminance value of the yellow let's say I could do that right here so it'll only affect the yellows in the image the saturation let's say a yellow so I can move that only affect the yellows so that really helps you adjust your image to your creative vision with these HSL sliders this image we don't really need anything split toning you could tone the highlights and/or shadows of your image we'll get to that in a new video in a future video I know I keep saying that detail this is really noise reduction and sharpening and we're gonna do that with this video typically you should do noise reduction first outside a light room especially if you sharpen first and then try to reduce noise later it's harder to reduce noise now in Lightroom these two subdivisions of this tab that is the sharpening subdivision in the noise reduction subdivision they kind of look they kind of work all with each other so it's not as important to do noise reduction first but by habit I do what I do is zoom in so just click on the image so you get a one to one view and I could see the noise in the image and there's two different types of noise you could remove with the noise reduction part of this detail tab that is luminance noise and color noise now there's no color noise in this image usually that's little red green and blue specks in the image that happens usually with an older camera maybe uh you know even a camera when I say older maybe a cameras five years old because it's this has improved cameras have improved that much in the last few years but an older camera and the scene was underexposed and you typically get a lot of color noise especially in the darker parts the scene there are none here so don't have to worry about that by default Lightroom put a plus 25 on that but I'll just leave it there luminance noise if I move that to the right you'll see that it will just smooth over that noise hopefully you see that in the video now if you go too far you got to remember it's not only it's going to smooth over noise it's gonna smooth over some of the detail too so you want to make sure that you're moving this just enough to get rid of the noise but not obliterate any detail if you move it to the point and you think that it's good go to this detail slider move that to the right and you'll rescue some of their detail move it to left and you'll blur things out even more so move details to the right again I'll have a detailed video on the detail panel probably one of my more popular videos I've ever done for any of the video series has been the the actual video I do on the detail panel so that's noise reduction sharpening you just move the amount slider to the right and move around move to a part of the image that you want to make sure it looks really sharp like the cat's eye maybe and move it again you don't want to go up too high if you over sharpen an image it just looks horrible so you want to be careful with the sharpening slider radius detail masking we'll talk about those in a future video super-powerful sliders and they come in super handy so that's detail we want to zoom back out just click on the image again we'll zoom right back out lens Corrections usually Lightroom will find the actual lens you used you may not have these boxes pre chucked if not just come in and check them the first is chromatic aberration that's little purple sometimes green little lines you'll get in high contrast edges on your image created by your lens usually a cheaper lens you'd get it all the time more expensive lens with all those expensive coatings usually you wouldn't have it it doesn't hurt to check it so just check it enable profile Corrections again you click that hopefully you found your lens in this case it found my lens if it didn't you could look for it the first drop-down is the make of the lens you used the second drop-down is the model now there are going to be some instances where Lightroom does not have the actual lens you used loaded into its lens profile database I'll have a video on this sub Hanul and in that video I will discuss what you could do if your lens is not included now the reason why you have lens Corrections I should say is that all lenses add some type of distortion to the scene no matter what and this helps correct it when I unclick enable profile Corrections you could see how the image kind of gets corrected so we'll cover this panel in more detail transform we'll talk about that in a future video effects I like to add a vignette to my image so that's considered of an effect if I go to the amount slider move it to the right I'll get a white vignette if I move it to the left I get a black Pena I'm just going to add a very slight dark vignette the reason why is I like that is it helps draw the viewers attention more towards the middle of the image bow that is calibration we'll have a video on that so I consider this image though to be completely processed there is a before and there's an after I could hit the Y key and you could see them side-by-side before and after so pretty well done I think Lightroom made it very easy now I need to export this image so I could share it with the world now to do that the keyboard shortcut is shift command II now remember go to my website and you'll could get a listing of all the keyboard shortcuts in Lightroom to export you also could go up to file export and the export dialog box comes in and I know I keep saying it but in a future video I'm gonna cover this export box in detail and I already kind of prefilled this out to make this go a little quicker what you would do is decide where you want to export your image to I'm going to export it to the desktop how am I going to name it well it's gonna be called links and then it's going to have a dash and it's gonna have one well again you could do this all different ways that's just the way I'm going to do this specific image I'm going to export it as a JPEG I could have exported it as a PSD TIFF D and G or I could just export the original raw file I'm gonna do the JPEG the color space will be srgb the quality I'm gonna put it a hundred doesn't really matter we'll get more detail on that in a minute or in next video or in future video you could limit the entire file size so I'm not going to do that now resize it I'm gonna resize this image one thing I should say let me close this down real quick see up here in the top left hand corner this info that shows the name of the file the date and time it was created and also the size of the image five thousand five hundred and sixty eight pixels by three hundred three thousand seven hundred twelve pixels I don't need to export this humongous image when if I'm sharing it on Facebook or on Instagram or something like that they're just gonna downsize it anyway so I might as well downsize it myself if I hit the I key on my keyboard I'll get some different info I'll still get the name of the file but I also get the actual exposure info 180th of a second at f/8 iso 400 and then the lens info i used to nikon 200 to 500 millimeter lens it was shot at 700 millimeters because I also used a nikon 1.4 x teleconverter so I was oom daal the way out and shot this zoomed all the way in I should say at 700 millimetres I hit the I key again and all that info goes away hit the I key again and we're back to that first screen so you could toggle through to different pages of information and no information at all so again we're going to export this it's a JPEG 100% quality now I'm going to resize it I'm going to share this on Facebook it has been my finding that at Facebook tends to mess up images but if you export it at 2048 pixels that tends to render the best on Facebook if you're exporting for Flickr Instagram 1080 usually works really well and especially with Flickr anyone could download images that you put on Flickr so if you put this full-size image on Flickr someone could steal it and they have the full size image but if you put it at 1080 there's not a whole lot they could do with it outside of viewing it on their computer resolution 72 is the resolution you should use for viewing online someone looking at it on a computer monitor if you're going to print it or send it off to a lab to be printed you want that resolution considerably higher around 300 usually below that the metadata that my copyright info my name you know all that lens info all that stuff I'm gonna include all that you have choices of what you could include or exclude from your exported metadata watermarking do we want to put a watermark we'll cover that in a future video and what are we gonna do after we export it well I'm gonna do nothing you could show it in this case because I'm using a Mac finder if using a PC it would be a Windows File Explorer we could open it up in Adobe Photoshop or a plugin or something like that but we're gonna do nothing and we're just going to click export so we're gonna export this image now over here we'll see the progress bar in the top left hand corner when it's exported you'll hear a ding it just exported now I get this question all the time once you export it what do you do with the original file well you keep it don't delete your original files remember the old days those of you that are old enough like me when we shot film we brought it off to a drugstore we got our packet of pictures bad and inside of that packet we're little strips and negatives well we those negatives were valuable if we wanted to get more prints we had to bring that negative in to get more prints well if you want to export this image to a different size someone wants to buy this they can't buy that 2048 long edged image to make a humongous print it's not big enough you have to send them this in your file to make a big image so save this don't delete your original images they're important this is where the library module comes in this is where you manage your images you keep them forever you go over here to folders and you can see it's right here I have all these images and as I add more images more images they'll be put into these folders and just keep them organized that way when you need to export it for another reason you could export it in the exact format it needs to be in and the exact size it needs to be in now we're exported where is it well I exported it to the desktop it's right there and there's our exported image just like that so quick start I know it wasn't very quick this is the longest video that's gonna be in the series all the other videos are gonna be much shorter I thank you if you made it this long I thank you very much for watching it to this point and I just like to thank everyone that watches my videos I truly do appreciate it in our next video we're going to cover that import module in detail so check for that in the video after that I think the next video that would be after the import module we're going to be culling and organizing our images so look for that in the third video again thank you very much for watching I'll talk to you guys soon you

Channel: Anthony Morganti

Views: 366,505

Keywords: photography, photographer, post processing, adobe, lightroom, photoshop, classic, classic cc

Id: T0f0NiDBPbk

Length: 43min 27sec (2607 seconds)

Published: Mon May 07 2018