Kitbashing NURGLE CORRUPTED Adeptus Custodes

[Music] i've been playing a lot of alden ring recently which generally means i see the screen quite a bit but when i'm not getting good i like to spend my time in the hellscape known as caled a land which has been infested by a belight known as the scarlet rot this features quite heavily within the game and immediately reminded me of my old friend nurgle just in this deep crimson rather than the lured greens we all know and love alden ring like other souls games has a wonderfully grim dark setting and so is great for sourcing warhammer kitmash ideas and one particular place that i found my inspiration was in the clean rot night these nights while clad in gleaming golden armor are still infected and will eventually succumb to the rot that resides within their flesh and it's this detail that i will be focusing on in this conversion when i thought of gleaming golden armor in the context of 40k i immediately thought of the custodies and i just love the idea of combining the corrupted flash of nurgle with a pristine and decorated armor of the emperor's finest protectors and thus the pestotes were born i'll be giving this bill three dead animal bits out of five there aren't too many extra parts required but there is a little sculpting involved i began this unholy combination by first removing all the parts required to construct an alaris custodian one of the custodians terminators once removed i then clean the parts of any sprue tabs and mould lines the main knurgle parts would come from the putrid blight king's kit specifically the huge distended stomachs most of the torsos in that set contain multiple options for their stomachs this means it's quite easy to use these extra torsos while still having enough components to build a full unit of blight kings i selected one of these stomachs and once again cleaned up the part the main task in building these miniatures was the combining of the stomach piece to the armor in a way that didn't look too tacked on i wanted it to appear as if it was erupting out from beneath the armor which meant that i needed to cut away a cavity for it to rest within i approached this by first using a combination by saw and clippers on the front part of the torso in order to remove the armor that sat below the collar i opted to keep a little more of the armor than it would probably be necessary as this would allow me to cut it back as and where i needed this left me with two halves the collar and the rest of the legs armed with my saw and clippers once again i then set about removing the mid section from the legs focusing my cut just above the top edge of the belt this left me with a pair of legs and shoulders of the custodies without their stomach area with the mid-section of the custody's armor removed i could compare the blight king torso piece against the color this gave me an idea of where i should clip back the chest so the two parts fitted together this process was done over a series of small adjustments and comparisons to ensure i achieved the best fit possible once i was happy with the fit i then glued the front and back of the custodian's chest piece together and allowed it to dry completely before proceeding after removing the stomach area of the custodies i now had no way of easily connecting the shoulders to the legs in order to bridge this gap i chose to turn to my old friend pinning i began by using my pin vice to drill a one millimeter wide hole into the leg section and then another into the underside of the collar piece making sure that i didn't drill all the way through into the neck area a length of one millimeter thick wire was then super glued into the hole in the leg the wire was then clipped down so its length roughly matched the height of the custodies at which point i then superglued the collar into the end of the wire this created a kind of spine which helped to hold the remaining parts of the custodies together i then followed this up by gluing the black king's stomach to the rest of the model depending on how you're joining the two halves you might need to make a few small adjustments here to get the best fit even after making my adjustments there were still a number of gaps around the sides of the stomach and near the collar these need to be filled in and green stuff would be my material of choice for this task once mixed i roll the putty into a few short squat sausages and press these into the gaps making sure to use vaseline over my tools and fingers to prevent it from sticking i use my metal tools to do most of the heavy lifting here pushing and stretching the material into the folds of sagging flesh my rubber tip tools were instead used to help smooth out and give the putty a softer more realistic flesh texture this process was repeated until all the gaps around the armor had been filled out and the flesh had been blended into the armor now that the torso was complete i could attach the alaris custodian arms rather than just isolating the extended lumps of flesh to the stomach i also decided to add some more green stuff to one of the arms as well following the exact same process as before adding stretches and folds as required from here i could continue assembling the rest of the model as per the instructions completing the first of the custodians i then proceeded to build the remaining two members of the squad applying the exact same soaring clipping and green stuffing steps that i had previously performed using the various torsos found in the biking kit and adapting the custodious parts as necessary i opted to add a little extra detail here and so choose to add some boils to the sagging skin to do this i grabbed some one millimeter ball bearings which were pressed into some of the still soft green stuff by leaving the ball protruding slightly it created the appearance of a blister or pustule in the flesh with all the sculpting and assembly finished i could then move on to the bases i kept things fairly simple and used my regular cork rock techniques i tore up with a few chunks of a cork floor tile and arranged these in a way that would allow me to attach the custodian later on once i was happy with that position i fixed them into place with some super glue to fill in the empty space around the rocks i used some vallejo texture paste and generously spoon this into all those crevices before allowing it to dry the final step before i could paint was to create a rudimentary holder for the terminators i made these by following the same drilling and pinning steps as earlier i just didn't clip the wire as short as i had done earlier i began the painting process by priming everything black i used an airbrush for this using some vallejo black primer but this isn't necessary you could just as easily use a rattlecam primer instead just make sure that what you use is black this primer would create a much better surface to paint on and would also help to create the model's shadows later one of the most predominant parts of the model was its golden armor and i wanted to keep this bright shining appearance in order to contrast against the rotten distended flesh i opted to use the pro acryl range for this task and started out with a mixture of bronze and a metallic medium this essentially creates a slightly lighter and slightly less viscous mixture that i could use to easily paint across all the armor and details i tried my best not to over spill onto the other areas of the model but any mistakes i did make could be cleaned up later on i followed up on this base coat with a highlight of some light bronze this was focused across the edges of the armor helping to create sharper details and start to bring out a little depth in the armor continuing with the metallics i then base coated the areas of steel across the model using a mixture of dark silver and metallic medium these areas included the parts of the bolter the pipes and the vents towards the rear of the armor these areas were then highlighted with some silver the final metal to tackle were the brass bolter casings which are painted with copper following this step i then change my paint water to prevent any cross contamination into my other paints i would next turn my brush to the cloth areas of the model and to create a deep rich red i began by mixing up equal parts dark purple and burnt red i mix in a little water to help it to better flow across the surface of the model too i covered the cloak epaulets and top knots using this deep red mixture until i had a good solid starting colour with a starting colour achieved over the cloth i began to apply a series of layers of watered down paint i began with burnt red and focuses across the rays fold in some of the cloth leaving the deeper folds as the dark mixture by watering down the layers and applying several coats allowing the paint to dry between each application i created smooth gradients from the darker recesses to the lighter folds this glazing technique was then followed up with some of the brighter bold pyro red i covered a finer area than before but still applied several layers in order to build up that gradual gradient to finish off the fabric i applied a very thin vertical line of tan flesh this emanated from the hem of the cloak along the raised folds in the fabric to create a brighter point resulting in a sharper look to the fold with the red areas completed i could start to work on edge highlighting the areas that would remain black these areas included the hellbird and the joints in the armor i applied a fine line of dark neutral grey to just the edges of these parts using the same dark neutral gray as before i then mix in a little pale yellow to lighten the tone but to retain a warmest hue this was also used as an edge highlight but this time i chose to focus only on the edges so we're closer to the corners where two edges met or within the centers of the joint ridges by adding yet more pale yellow to the mix i had an even lighter gray that i used as a point highlight this application of the plate was reduced even further being only used to pick out the very corners and rivets on the areas of the black this series of highlights culminated to give the edges a much sharper and defined appearance particularly important over areas that would otherwise just be a flat black for the tassels and detailing on the cloak i wanted to create a rough non-metallic gold effect generally speaking gold fabric is less reflective than traditional metals so not using metallics here will create a more realistic effect i began this process by base coating all of these areas in the rich reddish brown of mahogany from here a 50 50 mixture of mahogany and yellow ochre was created like with the cloak before i added water to create a glaze and steadily built this up over the race details and creases leaving the recesses as the dark mahogany i built up the lay steadily until i had achieved a gradient from light to dark finally some pure yellow ochre was painted onto only the most prominent points in the folds and edges depending on how far you want to push the reflectiveness here you could also add a few small dots of pale yellow or even a white but that is entirely optional there were quite a few warm golds and reds on the model already so for the energized blade of the weapon i chose to use a contrasting green but first i wanted to pre-shade some of the gradients onto the blade the existing black would serve as the shadows but to create the lighter points i used some bright neutral gray thinned into a glaze again i use the same techniques i had to earlier use to achieve two blocks of lighter points on each side of the blade i alternated this on each side of the blade so that the light points on one side would be the dark on the other i also use this paint as a solid edge highlight across the entirety of that blade these gradients were built up until i had a couple of tonal gradients on each side of the weapon i pushed this a little further with a thin line of bold titanium white down the center point and along some of the immediately adjacent edges i finished off the energy effect by mixing up a thin glaze of bright yellow green and applying this over the whole blade being so thin the paint was translucent and so kept the gradients beneath visible albeit with a bright green hue i like this first layer to dry before applying a second to really push the intensity of the green it was that of that bright green to dark green gradients the only remaining areas of the model left to paint were the distended stomachs and sagging mounds of flesh i began with the base coat of tan flesh building this up over a series of layers allowing each layer to dry fully before progressing this was repeated until i had a solid flesh color the skin was then highlighted with some pale pink this was a little trickier than with less organic and more defined parts of the model but by focusing on the upper edges rather than those that face downwards i was able to add some depth to the surfaces so far i had a pale and sickly looking skin but i really wanted it to look inflamed and infected for this i created a mixture of transparent red with quite a bit of water to create a kind of wash this was applied over the flesh where it settled into the recesses and subtly stained the skin with a red tinge i also picked out a few of the boils and other details using some slightly less than transparent red in order to boost the intensity of the color in these areas the results were something that looks quite different from the usual green tones associated with nurgle but still gave the skin a raw and unhealthy palette once dried i felt the wash had softened a few of the details a little so in order to bring these back i applied a second highlight of pale pink moving away from the rest of the model for a bit i began to work on the base both to quickly paint and to get the most out of the texture i employed a dry brushing technique i dipped one of my larger dry brushes into some dark chromo green and worked the paint evenly through the bristles by wiping them onto my glass palette from here i could then perform a series of quick strokes across the rocky base which left the paint only on the surfaces and edges but left the dps recesses as black this was followed up by another dry brush of dark warm grey by applying the gray over a dark green i prevented the rocks from looking too flat and gave them a slightly mossy appearance i finish off the rocks with a lighter dry brush of bright warm grey this was focused mainly on the edges of the rocks to make them look sharper and more prominent the final step in painting these adapters pestotes was to give them an oil wash but first i needed to protect the paint that i'd already laid down this was done with an all-over gloss varnish again i used some vallejo gloss varnish through an airbrush but your regular old rattle can would be perfect for this too this would not only protect the paint but it would also give the surfaces a smooth texture and allow the oil wash to flow more easily across the surfaces and into the recesses where i wanted it to pour i created my oil wash by mixing some black and burnt ombre oil paints into some odorless thinners you can use pre-made other washes for this but i find making your own is cheaper and allows you control to the desired tone and intensity once mixed i then applied this over the entirety of each of the pastors and their bases the low viscosity of the wash combined with the gloss varnish meant that it pulled into the recesses here it would dry to create the appearance of shading and add just a hint of griminess to the model after giving the wash a chance to dry overnight i cleaned up the base rim with some black paint before removing the remaining glossiness with an all-over varnish of matte varnish i then finished things off by shortening the wire holders and gluing them into holes drilled through the bases firmly holding them into place and with that i was left with these [Music] and here we have the completed squad of alaris custodians from the adapters perstodies with this project i set out to create something that was a different take on the traditional nugal appearance whilst still being recognizable as being of the lord of plagues i think i managed to achieve that and it was deeply satisfying to turn over the emperor's most stellar guardians to the dark gods no matter how law and friendly the concept is sometimes you're just going to have fun with your work and let the universe explanation follow later it was also fun to base this build on some of the themes found within alden ring it's full of fantastic inspiration so if you have any other ideas from the game or series i love to hear them and before you ask i've not been sponsored by them i just really love the game so before i go let's say a huge thank you to those who make these videos possible my wonderful patrons currently my top supporters on patreon are jonathan hart ryan little tim berserker daniel dowling jake jesse smith morgan mr grimm and swedsman so big thank you to you guys and if you also support me on patreon do channel membership or you just use my affiliates links then it is the kind heart of people such as yourselves allowing to fund the tools and paints required to create these videos for you and so until next time thanks for watching and goodbye [Music] you

Channel: Pete The Wargamer

Views: 181,374

Keywords: Wargaming, Miniatures, Warhammer, Games Workshop, Warlord Games, Tabletop, Tutorial, Guide, How To, warhammer 40k, nurgle conversion, warhammer conversion, nurgle kitbash, warhammer 40000, games workshop painting tutorial, elden ring, nurgle astartes, space marines, warhammer 40k garden of nurgle, kitbashing warhammer age of sigmar, warhammer conversion tutorial, nurgle conversion bits, nurgle conversions, nurgle conversion kit, warhammer nurgle conversion

Id: aBk1qA02SKY

Length: 19min 16sec (1156 seconds)

Published: Sun May 15 2022