Kitbashing KHORNE Corrupted Sisters of Battle

in my continued quest to corrupt as many non-chaos models to the force of darkness as possible my attention has once again returned to the sisters of battle previously i've tackled some sisters of slaanesh but this time i'll be focusing on some rage-filled sisters of corn this conversion was started with the sisters of battle seraphim kit from the sprue all the components required to build the model were removed with the exception of the jump pack and the head once clipped from the sprue i removed any tabs and mould lines with my scalpel before the components were assembled it was a good time to remove any iconography that was obviously imperial these were scattered across various parts of the model and were removed with my scalpel the bulk of each symbol was carefully cut away before scraping the surfaces flat by holding the blade perpendicular to the model's surface these icons included but were not limited to the shoulder pads the knees the gorgets and around the belt once all these icons had been removed the legs torso and arms were all glued together swapping out the head was the next modification that will be made to the mini i wanted something that looked enraged to embody that corn vibe but i also needed it to still look like a sister of battle fortunately the repenter kit is an excellent source of alternative heads that have that blood modern expression that i was looking for the only modification that needed to be performed was to remove the slightly protruding buckle from the neck this prevented the head from being added to the torso but after a quick clip and trim the head was able to be glued into place the adventure head was a good start but i felt that it needed to be a little more corrupted to push the chaotic influence here one of the animal skulls from the citadel skulls kit was grabbed and the tip of its horn was clipped away this created a tiny little horn that after a little trimming around the base add a slight concave shape to it was glued to the forehead i could have repeated this with a second horn but sometimes i think that the asymmetric look works particularly well for chaos models but the horns weren't the only mutation that would be added to this model taking inspiration from valkyrie the bloody from warhammer fantasy and age of sigma i opted to add some bat like wings to the model these wings were taken from the canary heart renders kit but they needed a little trimming in order to be properly attached after a comparison i clipped the base of the wings flat before filing and trimming them to better fit the surface of the seraphim's back the contact point was a little small though relying on glue alone to hold quite a prominent piece would make it very susceptible to being knocked off to help fix the wings into place i drilled a one millimeter hole into the base of the wing followed up by another in the back into the hole in the wing some one millimeter steel wire was super glued into place before being clipped down just a few millimeters remained protruding this was in turn super glued into the back completing the wing and creating a much stronger bond in the process this whole process was then repeated for the second wing finishing off the chaotic mutations the model was getting pretty close to completion by this point but it was lacking in the skull iconography this would be resolved by dipping into another one of my favorite kits the house goliath gang from necromunda this particular skull and blazing shoulder pad was chosen but it wasn't fitting as well as it could so a few quick trims were made to the underside of the pad to allow it to sit closer against the existing shoulder pad once i was happy with the fit it was glued into place with the model complete i just needed to start work on the base itself as the model was mid-flight the base needed to be built up to a height that continued this illusion of being elevated the bulk of this heist was created with another channel favorite torn up cork floor tiles these are easily ripped into their desired shape with your fingers and create a really nice rocky texture a couple of these were torn up before being glued to the base one on top of the other but this wouldn't be a video about a disciple of corn without a ridiculous amount of dead animal bits like before these skulls were all sourced from the citadel skull set and were glued across the rock they were built up one on top of the other to form the appearance of a peaked pile a few of the skulls were even clipped in half and glued directly to the base to create the appearance of them being buried in the dirt i'd achieved a sufficient pile of skulls i needed to attach a sister of corn to the top of it this was done by first trimming flat one of the skulls at the top of the pile so the sole of one of the feet could sit against it with the foot and the top of the skull lining up i repeated the earlier drilling and pinning technique from earlier the first hole was drilled into the foot wire was glued in and clipped to be a little longer than last time another hole was drilled into the skull and through into the base from here the wire was glued in locking the model to its base the final step before painting was to just block out some of the gaps in the base with a little texture i chose some of vallejo's earth texture and just liberally applied it over the empty spots of the base this allowed me to create a realistic looking earth texture really quickly and really easily but before we get to the painting i want to thank surfsharkvpn for sponsoring this video the internet can be a bit like the warp it's a good way of getting to what you need but there are a lot of nasty demons out there looking to take your private information and your souls but you can navigate with your own gala field using surfsharkvpn or virtual private network you can start websites from tracking your info and selling targeting ads to you nothing is creepier than when you have a conversation about some from resident ale and it starts suddenly popping up in your ads plus with surfshark's alert id protection you'll get an alert when a nefarious keeper secrets is trying to break into your email but one of my favorite features of surfshark is that you can see content not available in your area you want to get some inspiration for your tyranids by watching starship troopers but it's not available in your country well switch your location to canada and boom it's right there on netflix so if you want both protection and freedom online click the link in the description and use code thewargamer it not only gives you a huge 83 percent off the regular price but also three months of service totally for free surfshark offers a 30-day money-back guarantee so there's no risk to try it out for yourself once again a big thank you to surf shark for sponsoring this video i began the painting process by priming everything black i used an airbrush for this along with some of vallejo's black primer this primer would create a better surface to paint on and would also help to contribute to the zenithal shading i'd be performing in the next step xenopho shading is a great way to add a little extra realism to your highlights and shadows by lighting up the areas you'd expect to light naturally fall upon it involves taking a white paint such as tamiya xf2 white that i used here and thinning it in an airbrush with some average thinners you're looking for a consistency that is not too dissimilar to milk here i like to spray this mixture onto the model from above meaning that the paint formed only on the upper surfaces and left the under size and recesses as the base black primer mimicking the shadows and brighter surfaces created by a natural light source to benefit from the xenothor shading i would need to airbrush the base clothes onto the model to create the iconic red coloring of corn i opted to use the incredibly rich dark vermilion from vallejo like with the white this was thinned out and sprayed lightly across the whole of the armor and the wings by just applying thin layers they remain slightly translucent and allowed the gradients below to show through after applying a couple of thin layers the red was looking vibrant at the points where i'd applied the white earlier and looked darker and more shaded in the recesses this compounded to make the model look much more realistic than simply applying black colors i had made a good start of the shading but i felt i could push the red a little further by applying some vermilion this was thinned and applied to my airbrush but this time it was only targeted onto those upper surfaces and kept away from the recesses this simply helped to intensify the red and resulted in a much more vivid colour and with that the airbrushing was completed and i could make a start on the armor and wings highlights a lighter version vermilion was created by mixing some ice yellow into it i chose eyeshadow rather than white as i wanted to push the colour more towards a peachy colour rather than a pink this mixture was painted mainly across the hard edges by applying a fine line of lighter shade it helped to accentuate some of the details and create a stronger contrast against the darker shadows in the recesses however there were also a few flatter surfaces that were painted with a mix too the trick here is to create a thin mixture about three parts water to one part paint is good for a thin glaze the glaze was painted onto those areas that were airbrushed with the vermilion in the last step but it was focused onto a smaller area this just helped to continue that lightening gradient the highlights were built upon by adding yet more eyeshadow into my mix to create an even lighter paint this was used to pick out some of the corners and more prominent points and simply made these details stand out and look much sharper for the skin on the wings i highlighted them slightly differently using some brown rose a few thin lines replied so they ran perpendicular from the edges of the wings after applying a few of these it helped to give a ragged and more organic appearance to the wings whilst still breaking up the flat surfaces the skin of the wings was blending too much into the colour of the armor so it needed a glaze to adjust it a little this was created by mixing some of the citadel contrast paint sigovol burgundy into some contrast medium this reduced the strength of the mix which meant that when applied to the skin it just subtly gave the surface a slightly darker slightly more purplish hue with the armor completed some of the other areas could be focused on the first of these were the black areas which covered quite a few spots these included the leather across the torso the loincloth the pipes the claws on the wings and the stock of the bolters all these areas were tackled with some black grey with just a little water mixed in to help with the flow of the paint for the leather on the torso the loincloth and the wing claws i chose to give the surfaces a grayish blue tone this was created by mixing together some black gray and dark prussian blue like with the earlier vermilion highlights i added plenty of water to create a glaze this paint was applied over the black gray but the recesses were left dark to create the appearance of shadows the paints was built up over a few layers leaving each layer to dry fully between applications the blue grain mix was lightened by adding in a little ice yellow and this was used to push the visibility of those details with a combination of more glazing and some edge highlights feel free to go in even further with these if you wish just add in more eyeshadow to your mix the techniques used over the black areas were repeated when i tackled the brown leather of the gloves this time around though i base coated it with some flat brown rather predictably some ice yellow was added for the first layer and highlight followed by even more eye shadow being added to the mix for the most extreme highlights of the gloves edges this brought me to painting the metal areas i opted to ditch the vallejo range for this and instead reach for my favorite metallics those from the pro acryl range to tackle the areas of steel i began with a base coat of some dark silver these areas were then highlighted with the much brighter silver it couldn't be a corn model without a little bit of bronze so naturally i grabbed some of pa's bronze this was applied across the small trinkets the skull on the shoulder pad and the spiked band around the ankle the edges of these bronze areas were then highlighted with light bronze following this step i made sure to swap out my paint water just to prevent any cross contamination of metal flakes into my other paints there were still a few remaining black arrows which hadn't been highlighted yet these included the bolter stocks and the pipes i created a lighter gray mix than the base coat by just adding a little white and use this to edge height those remaining areas finally the sharpest points were picked out with an ever lighter gray mixture which was created by adding even more white to my black gray the next area to focus on was the skin naturally some of the earlier airbrushing had overspilled onto the head so i wanted to give it a darker more consistent base color i chose flat brown for this and applied it across the whole face to lighten up the skin i began with some brown rose this was watered down to create a glaze and was applied pretty much over the whole face the only areas i avoided were the eyes and the deep scars after allowing this first layer to dry it was further built upon with a second layer this time however it was much more focused i avoided the recesses a little more here which helped to form a smoother gradient from those shaded recesses ice yellow was once again reached forth to create some highlights and was mixed into the brown rose again i limited my application here focusing on the cheekbones bridge of the nose forehead and other more prominent facial features i continue to apply the layers as glazes and just steadily build them up in order to keep those transitions smooth more eyeshadow was used to lighten the mix and to pick out only the lightest points the skin was looking a little unnaturally flat though so to add some variation in tone i mixed some volupus pink contrast paint into some contrast medium and glaze this around the eyes and into the recesses of the cheeks similarly some blurred angels red contrast paint was glazed into the scars and the inside of the mouth the face was finished off by painting the eyes with some white paint this resulted in a suitably demonic look with the model itself completed i could turn my attention to the base i began with the rocks and these were cleaned up with a base layer of black grey this would create a suitable dark contrast to the bones around them the rocks were then dry brushed with a black gray and white mixture the dry brushing caused the paint to only accumulate onto the rough edges of the rocks and texture at the bottom this was a great way of adding extra detail really quickly and really easily the skulls and the horn on the forehead were all base coated with some flat earth this is a little darker than the intended final color but it would help with the application of the lighter paint and create a good color to keep in those recesses the bone color would be created with some iraqi sand again i took the approach of watering down the paint and applying it over the course of several thin layers i kept the recesses as the flat earth which just helped to give the bones a little extra detail and variation in their tone once a few layers had been built up i was left with a good bleached bone colour the final step in painting this corn corrupted sister of battle was to give it an oil wash but first i need to protect the paint that i'd already laid down this was done with an all-over gloss varnish again i used some vallejo gloss varnish through an airbrush but your regular old rattle can would be perfect for this too this would not only protect the paint but it would also give the surfaces a smooth texture and allow the oil wash to flow more easily across the surfaces and into the recesses where i wanted it to pool i created my own oil wash by mixing some black and burnt umber oil paints into some odorless thinners you can use pre-made oil washes for this but i find making your own is both cheaper and allows you to control the desired tone and intensity once mixed i then applied this over the entirety of the model and its base the low viscosity of the wash combined with the gloss varnish meant that it pulled into the recesses but one of the great things you can do with oil washes is adjust them you just need to dampen a clean brush with some thinners this can then be used to remove or thin the oil wash so if it's staining the surface you can simply clean it up once dried this dark wash would add some really strong shading and add just a hint of grimeness to the model after giving the wash a chance to dry overnight i then removed any of the remaining glossiness with an all-over coat of the army painters anti-shine matte varnish but there was still one thing missing that would make this a proper corn model and that is a healthy amount of blood i've just used tamiya's x-27 clear red to create these effects but you can use blood for the blood guard instead either way i opted to paint these onto the skulls where it would stand out the most i painted in vertical lines that emanated from the eyes because nothing is more metal than a pile of decapitated skulls that are bleeding from their empty eye sockets and with that the model was done [Music] [Applause] [Music] and here we have the completed sister of corn corrupting models to chaos is something that is unsurprising to anyone who watches my videos regularly and if you haven't then go back and check them out but there's just something incredibly fun about it taking something as quote unquote pure as a sister of battle and devoting her to a chaos god it's just so satisfying now a few of you have already noticed that i've been pushing my paint jobs a little further recently so if you too are enjoying these slightly more technical and involved schemes then do let me know in the comments for those of you looking to recreate the scheme i'll include all the paints using this guide in the description below along with some affiliate links to where you can pick them up for yourself so before i go let me say a big thank you to surfshot for sponsoring this video and an even bigger thank you to my ever wonderful patrons who keep this channel chugging along especially my experts here and above supporters who are brushlick and nim jonathan hart ryan little tim berserker daniel dowling jake jesse smith casper lindborg morgan mr grim and sweatsmen if you're interested in supporting me too you can find a link to my patreon below where supporters can get ad-free access to my videos sneak peeks a private discord channel and exclusive merchandise plus should be helping me out in the process so until next time thanks for watching and goodbye [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Pete The Wargamer

Views: 196,334

Keywords: Wargaming, Miniatures, Warhammer, Games Workshop, Tabletop, Tutorial, Guide, How To, warhammer 40k, warhammer 40000, sisters of battle, adeptus sororitas, chaos space marines, sisters of battle painting, adepta sororitas painting, chaos sisters of battle, kitbashing sisters of battle, chaos adeptus sororitas, kitbashing adeptus sororitas

Id: wOWY6ewj6hA

Length: 20min 8sec (1208 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 31 2022