I Converted A Leviathan TERMINATOR Into KALDOR DRAIGO: Grey Knight Kitbash

so Games Workshop sent me an early copy of Leviathan the new Star set for 140k in it are two opposing forces of Space Marines and tyranids and naturally I wanted to use one of these Miniatures as a basis for a kit bash but my problem was deciding what to build luckily you guys had some suggestions well specifically one viewer who's dedicated far too much of their time to requests that I build that one model every day for the last two months so let's bow down to peer pressure and kit bash an updated keldorgo I began with the new Terminator Captain Caldor Drago wears Terminator armor and so this new better Scaled Armor will help me to create a more up-to-date miniature so to begin I removed all the captain's Parts before cleaning them up of their mold lines and spruitabs due to the push fit nature of the model and the odd way that Parts have been cut up I decided that removing or modifying any details first would be the easiest choice the first of these was the rear of the Torso the pins intended to hold the arms in place wouldn't be needed in this build so they were simply clipped away the iron Halo sat above the head also wouldn't be needed so this was first clipped away before smoothing out the armor from the middle section of the Torso the peg that would hold the head in place was also clipped away this was a little trickier to remove completely though fortunately the head would cover up any parts I wasn't able to remove from the front section of the model the parchment acting as a loincloth was also removed the original Caldor Drago model makes use of a more traditional cloth loin covering so I needed to make way for it the majority of the parchment was clipped away before the smaller remaining chunks were cut back with a knife another detail that I removed was the crest over the chest gray Knight armor doesn't feature this Motif so removing it would help to better align the space remodel with the gray Knights the bulk of the symbol was cut away before the surface was smoothed out to be as flat as I could get it by using a scraping motion the final change that I made before assembly was to remove the Crook's terminitis from the right lower leg in much the same way that I'd remove the crest in the previous step finally the pegs from the feet were also clipped away allowing me to glue together the Torso but first let's hear from this video sponsors are you ready to experience the most comprehensive vehicle combat game ever made look no further than War Thunder the sponsor of today's video in War Thunder you can engage in Dynamic combined arms PVP battles with over 2 000 tanks planes helicopters and ships every vehicle in War Thunder is meticulously detailed and modeled down to their individual components get ready for a highly immersive combat experience like no other and the best part you can play for free on PC Xbox series X and S PlayStation 5 or the previous console generation the choice is yours whether you're a history buff or simply love 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vehicle combat game use my link below to receive awesome bonuses such as boosters and premium Vehicles as I mentioned earlier I would be replacing the parchment with a loincloth and this particular part was taken from the gray Knight Terminators kit it did need a little modification though so that I could get a natural looking fit after a few comparisons the top of the cloth was narrowed slightly with a series of clips and knife Cuts during this process I made frequent comparisons and small adjustments to ensure that I wasn't cutting away too much once things are lining up the cloth was glued into place but I was left with a slight gap on the cloth's left side fortunately it could be covered up with another detail that is featured on the original candle Drago model a hefty tone again this was sourced from the gray Knight Terminator kit and was glued into place without modification even though the new Terminators are better scaled the changes seem to be mainly in the legs and torso the arms seem to have lengthened ever so slightly but hardly enough to notice when you're using arms from the older kits so armed with a gray Knight to Terminator right arm sword and stormbolter I set to work normally Terminators have their stormwater on their left arm but as kaldore carries a shield this needs to be moved to the right arm as such the magazine needed to be removed from the left side of the stormwater once removed and trimmed back I also shaved away the small symbols from the other side as well from here I took the mag from a non-terminator gray Knight and trimmed away the tab so that it could sit flush against the Bolter the Bolter was then compared against the arm a few more trims were made here and there to allow the Bolter to fit against it properly with everything prepped The Sword and armor glued together then the arm was attached to the Torso before final gluing the storm Bolter to the arm completing the right arm keldorigo carries a shield in his left hand while there are a number of shields available in various Space Marine kits most of these tend to be squared off or a more stylized Tower Shield Caldor carries more of a heater type shield and a good source for these are the Tilt shields on Imperial Knights this particular Shield is actually from a chaos Knight but it doesn't really feature anything particularly chaosy so works well to help bring it back to being a gray Knight shield I took one of the back symbols from the terminator's kit the pole was clipped away and the back was flattened out until it could sit flush against the surface of the shield the small Purity seal was getting in the way though so this was also removed finally once the book and sword were sitting well against the Shield I made the joint permanent with a little plastic glue the arm holding the shield was pretty straightforward I simply took another gray Knight Terminator arm glued it to a clenched fist in the same kit and then attach the arm to the Torso I didn't glue The Shield just yet though it would be easier to paint the model if this was kept separate but I did use it when attaching the shoulder pads I just needed to double check that where I had added the pad wouldn't intersect with the shield from here the gray Knight Terminator shoulder pads were then glued into place the next part to look at was the head there were a few decent options to choose from in the gray Knights kits but I ultimately settled on this head from the primarist librarian it looked a little like the original Caldor Drago and also featured the psychic Hood however the head was designed for a ball and socket joint rather than the flat connector that this torso featured so yet more clipping and trimming was done to flatten out the neck and after a quick comparison what trims were made to the back of the head until the head fit properly into the Torso but it wouldn't be glued just yet all there was left to do now was to add those final details the first of these was a little extra armor detailing over the chest I took the small reliqui from the Terminator kit removed the hook from the top and glued it to the center of the chest mimicking the look of a regular gray night torso the last few details were pretty straightforward another backtopper was glued where I'd remove the iron Halo from a Terminator tilt Shield was attached to the left shoulder pad and several Purity seals were placed across the armor completing the model itself but there was still the base the original model featured a slain screamer killer which didn't really make quite as much sense for a gray Knight so it would be replaced with this Lord of change head and neck but first I need to make room the turret its head was clipped away leaving the rib cage at the back the Lord of changes neck was unshortened to fit into the newly created space this did require a lot of back and forth of clipping and trimming until the neck fitted snugly from here the head was glued together and attached to the base this did leave a small Gap beneath the head though so to resolve this I turned to the ever trustee cork floor tiles I tore this up into some small chunks and super glued them just beneath the head creating the effect of a pile of rocks or Rubble I was almost ready to paint but in order for me to easily hold the parts as I painted them I needed to create some holders the first was a wire that was attached by drilling a hole into the underside of the head and super gluing a length of wire into it to hold the shield I took an off cut of some sprue and glued it into the hole in the back of the shield creating a handle that would allow me to start the painting as always the first step in painting was to Prime and for this I chose black specifically a gloss black primer from Vallejo this was chosen as the glossy surface will help to give the following metallic layers that extra shine this is applied across the main torso and The Shield for the head and the base I used a regular black primer the metallics weren't as heavy here so the glossy surface wasn't needed to give my surfaces that reflective metallic look I opted to use some of vallejo's metal colors these can be applied with a brush but I find the best results are achieved via an airbrush the paints are also formulated for airbrushing so you can apply them without having to thin them out first for my first step I used some steel with my airbrush prepped I sprayed the paint across the whole armor I try not to over spill onto the non-metallic areas too much but any over spills would be cleaned up later on I applied a first layer I allowed it to dry and then applied a second combined with the gloss primer the result was a much more reflective metallic look for the next step I switched over to the slightly brighter silver this was also applied via my airbrush but this time I only focused on the upper areas of the metal armor rather than the recesses this created brighter spots of metal which helped to contrast them against the darker areas found beneath the cloak and towards the bottom parts of areas but to further darken down those deep recesses I created a very dark pattern liner by mixing together some black Legion contrast paint with a little contrast medium this helped to reduce the intensity of this very strong paint somewhat I call this mix a panel liner because I could Target it directly into the recesses and fine gaps between the panels in the armor it would darken them down considerably helping to give them more definition against the bright silver around them improving the model's depth of detail Granite armor has a slight bluish tint to it and this would be created by mixing up a very subtle blue glaze of telesol blue and more contrast medium by applying this over the lower sections of each panel the result is a transition from a bluish steel moving towards a bright silver this was applied over several very thin layers steadily building up the intensity of the blue each time to finish off the armor I line the edges with a small amount of aluminum and yes it's not aluminum it has two eyes in it as the brightest of the metal so far it gave the edges an extremely sharp looking Edge combined with the earlier washers the result was a much stronger depth of detail continuing with metallics I next began work on the gold details naturally I use gold from the Vallejo metal color range this time I apply my base coats with a regular brush I'm putting a couple of layers to ensure an even coverage the gold paint is quite bright though so to darken it down a little and to bring out those recesses I created another contrast mix of fire slave flesh and medium this particular painting to help to give the gold a warmer Hue whilst also adding a little shading this was followed up with an edge height of gold again and with that the metallics were complete and I refreshed my paint water to prevent the metallic flakes from getting in to my other paints before I began on the non-metallic areas I decided to clean up any over spills from the previous steps first for this I used dune death black from the tooth in coat range this was thinned down with a little water and applied in a couple of layers leaving me with a single base color to build up from the remaining areas I followed the same few steps of base coat layer glaze and then highlights the first area of focus was the red cloth of the cloak and shield along with the book iconography I gave them a base coat of berserker red and like in the previous step I thinned out the paint with the water and applied it into thin coats the layer step of this process saw me taking some sand green scarlet and mixing it with some water until it's had an almost wash like consistency this paint was then applied across the Falls of the cloak but not into the creases much like with the earlier application of the silver over the armor it helped to emphasize detail and give the surface more realistic looking lighting this paint was built up over several applications too with each layer covering a slightly smaller area than before this resulted in a smoother transition from the darker red to a lighter one for the glaze I took another contrast paint blood angels red and thinned it slightly with a little medium this was then applied across all of the red areas in an even coat the translucent nature of this paint allowed the previous transitions to serve through whilst helping to smooth out those previous gradients and give it a more intensive red color for the highlights I began with demon red this was applied across all of the edges including the sharper looking folds in the cloth finally the Reds were completed by applying some small dots of phonetic orange to only the corners and points of the edges this is often referred to as an extreme height and can really build up the sharpness of these details as I mentioned before the same process would be repeated for each color present on the model following the red my next point of focus were the 10 areas these included the fabric of the loincloth and the parchment details for these I applied a base coat of Ancient Forest the raised areas were then picked out with some Thin layers of dust bowl before unifying transitions with a glaze of skeleton horde finally a couple of highlights were applied first of sandstone and then Temple Stone as an extreme highlight next up was the wax of the Purity seals the cover of the book and the swords hilt my aim here was to create a burgundy color over these areas in order to offer some distinction from the red details so I began with some Royal cloak as a base coat followed by a layer of sword hilt burgundy for the glaze I went with the lupus pink but for the highlights though I settled on just one highlight of glistening gums due to these areas being slightly smaller than the previous steps when it came to the black details I broke with tradition I'd already base coated these areas such as the stormalter and the gaps between the armors so I just needed to hide them I began with some dungeon Stone gray with just a few spots of wizard gray added to the sharper points to really bring out those details from here I could return to the original process and turn my attention to the Head the skin was base coated with Barbarian brawn the facial features were picked out with a layer of Dwarven skin before blending the previous two layers together with some Gilman flesh finally the most prominent facial features were picked out with Alvin's skin to give the psychic Hood the appearance of leather I began with a base coat of scorched Earth as this covered such a small area though I moved straight onto the highlights the first of these was Ancient Forest and then finally Wasteland Brown to paint keldor Drago's Gray beard I followed a similar base coat highlight highlight process beginning with wizard Gray then call carrot and gray and finally white star my next area of focus was the four sword now to achieve those iconic force weapon gradients I took some marine blue and created a mix similar in consistency to the layer steps I approached each flat facet or panel of the blade separately I would apply the paint to one end leave a gap and then apply another section Feathering out the paint as I moved along the blade when I moved to the other side of the blade I would invert which sections were painted and which were left as a black this would result in an almost checkerboard-like pattern where no color would be positioned directly next to itself helping to achieve that classic energy weapon effect the trick here is not to use too much paint on your brush at any one time you're better off applying small amounts and leaving the paint to dry and adding more building up the layers incrementally will result in smoother results this process was then continued by using some of the brighter Elysium blue this was furthered with a thin line of celestial blue that was applying to the very center of each of the blue panels a glaze of teleson blue was then applied to help better blend together the transitions whilst also gearing the blue a degree of intensity the glaze had darkened that final line of celestial blue though so another thinner line was applied over the top the final few steps in painting Caldor was to add a few freehand details the text over the book pages and Purity seals was achieved by painting some Thin lines of black Legion to create rough lines of text in addition to Black Legion some text was also created with some flesh Terrors red while I had this to hand I also painted on a thin line across the bottom of the tabard as well this just helped to break up the otherwise flat looking surface finally a sword was drawn onto the flag hung from The Shield I painted this on with white star and first added a few spots to Mark out the outer edges these points were then joined up with lines and filled in to create the sword icon and with that I could move onto the base my first step in painting the base was to tackle the rocky surface this was done with some dry brushing to speed things up a little but the same layering and highlight techniques that I'd used earlier could have been used here as well I began with an initial base layer of dungeon Stone gray followed by a second layer of wizard gray which covered a small area than before leaving the recesses slightly darker finally the hard edges will be picked out with some car carried and gray my painting of The Lord of change returned to the usual base coat layer highlight stages the feathers were base coated with marine blue layered with Elysium blue and highlighted with Celestial blue finally the surface was glazed with some croxical scales again this helped to tie together the previous layers but also gave the surface a slightly turquoise Hue which gave us a distinction from the sword that I tackled earlier I painted the inside of the mouth the same steps that I'd used over the books and hilts starting with royal cloak then sword hilt burgundy before finishing off the highlights with the glistening gums and then glazing with doom fire magenta for the beak and tongue I began with dragonfang layered on skeleton Legion and highlighted with vampire fang finally these areas were glazed with some medium diluted NASDAQ yellow from here the metals both the gold and silver were then tackled in the exact same way that I painted them earlier but to help give the rocks and silver metal details a little Grime I applied some talk to glazes of Wildwood this brown contrast paint gave the subtle appearance of dust and dirt accumulating over the surfaces whilst also giving the gray rock some variation in hue and with that I just needed to clean up the rim of the base with some Doom death black spray the model with some gloss varnish before picking out the non-metallic details with a matte varnish and then assemble everything together I had to remove the holders and bases from the parts before scraping the contacts clean this would allow me to actually glue the parts together without them immediately falling apart with that the model was complete which left me with this [Music] and here we have the completed Caldor grago my interpretation of this well-known gray Knight character has taken advantage of the larger frame of the new Terminator Miniatures to give Caldor the stature he deserves after all you don't survive a century in the warp without being pretty formidable however by basing the model on a regular Space Marine Terminator the end result does have a few missing details specifically the shape of the armor around the head as well as the chest and leg inscriptions my model is still recognizable as a gray Knight but if I was a little more confident in my freehand skills I could have added those inscriptions but I'm really happy with the result and it would look great leading an army of gray Knights hopefully you picked up a few ideas for both building and painting your own granite and if you have suggestions for other conversions you'd like to see me tackle then leave those in the comments below but before I go I just want to say a big thanks to War Thunder for sponsoring this video remember to check out the game with my link below to receive some awesome bonuses such as boosters and premium Vehicles however my biggest Thanks goes to my patreon supporters and channel members the ever generous people who help keep these videos going especially my experts here and above supporters who are Jonathan Hart Manchester vitski Morgan swedson Tim Daniel Dowling immaterial Creations Yoakam folk johans Jonathan sunsteed Mr Grimm pale juice and the Googles and my sergeant-level channel members who are their statement Mr Jared Hess 95 Newington paints Mark Taylor while tussler and Philip poyer if you're interested in supporting me you can hit the join button below or via link to my patreon in the description supporters get a whole host of benefits including ad-free access to my videos sneak peeks a private Discord Channel and exclusive merchandise speaking of merchandise I also have a few t-shirts and Mugs Up for sale featuring designs drawn by me you can check those out by following the links below or by going over to petethewargamer.com so until next time thanks for watching and goodbye [Music]

Channel: Pete The Wargamer

Views: 164,054

Keywords: Wargaming, Miniatures, Warhammer, Games Workshop, Tutorial, Guide, How To, grey knights, warhammer 40k, warhammer 40000, space marines, grey knights warhammer 40k, kaldor draigo, true scale grey knights, grey knights 40k, grey knights painting, grey knight kitbash, kaldor draigo conversion, 10th edition 40k, terminator kitbash, grey knight conversion, leviathan

Id: ZOEXgRbGXDA

Length: 26min 34sec (1594 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 03 2023