It'd be NICE if It Would STOP... Fixing Fork Truck Brakes! ~ RESCUING a 1960's Fork Truck ~ Part 3

wonder what this little mickey mouse bs is here you ready i wonder if i have a socket that big nothing came out man we got a bad hydraulic leak i don't know if i've ever seen a cylinder that bad all right we're back on the forklift so got a few things to deal with number one hydraulic leak number two brakes and a few other smaller things so a friend was driving by and i was kind of out working in the rain on this thing and he goes i'll be right back he comes back with this massive bag apparently these are caterpillar engine bags and he's like here you can use one of these i was like what so you can get in here kind of have a little shelter over where you're working it's kind of nice i don't like leaving machines outside even though i know most people maybe maybe not most many people do um i think it causes a lot of problems and so i try and put things under covers and i just don't have enough shop space right now but soon i'll build a bigger shop and i'll have more room but let's get on this get this bag off and go from there so these are the valves basically the levers for the hydraulics for the forklift itself if you look right down here you can see it's pretty wet right there so i want to try and figure out where this is leaking from [Music] so we can figure out what needs to be tightened or replaced it's kind of looking like it's coming from [Music] here this this pipe i'm gonna go get a rag and i don't want to pressure wash this just yet what the heck is this huh somebody lost their folding rule in the machine interesting free if you want it i wonder what this little mickey mouse bs is here remember what it's hiding looks like a hole in the hose that's been taped over i think that hose goes from looks to be like a transmission filter maybe over to the housing for the hydrostatic all right let's fire this up and uh see where the hydraulic leak is i don't have the throttle hooked up and it's wanting to run away on me [Music] i figured it out this hard line is cracked right on the other side you ready there's our mess that hard lines what i need to get replaced that's actually a good problem man we got hydraulic fluid everywhere literally splashed all over the dash got all underneath here all over the motor so here's our problem this hard line this little z looking hard line it has a crack right here big bulge i can actually feel it right there and obviously that's pouring out hydraulic fluid every time you use it and so that's why sometimes it's not the best idea to power wash right away i know people are going to say oh you should just start by power washing it i want to see it clean or then you can see all the problems well in this instance it was better for me to spend i don't know a half an hour kind of detailing this area because i knew there was a problem there and so by cleaning it and figuring out where the problem is because i knew i was gonna leak more hydraulic fluid it got everywhere it's all over the machine it's all over the transmission here it's on the dash it's now i'll fix that and then we'll pressure wash it and then we'll find other problems and that will be kind of my order of operations on this one it's not always the way i do it and it'll be a lot easier to only have to wash it once so let's get that line out take a look at it and see if we can't get another one all right first thing i want to do is kind of move the lever because i want to release any pressure in the hydraulic line [Music] all right i got the wrench on from the bottom [Music] should be able to get it [Music] i got it finally there's the crack right there kind of torqued it a little bit getting it out hopefully that's not a big deal when they go to measure it i'm sure it will be [Music] so there's our hard hydraulic line [Music] and there's the big problem [Music] that crack yeah see about getting another one of these made i wonder if i have a socket that big no what's crazy i actually had a the right size socket or at least close enough three and a half inch yeah that's crazy i can't believe it that's what i get for all the old places i get stuff from yeah baby so uh oh it's starting to rain on me there we go now we're loose maybe the rain will only happen for a few minutes i hope it's like sunny and raining i should probably try and get in there the adjuster and try and loosen it hard part is a lot of these old adjusters just get all locked up it's right here i don't even know if i can get in there i love drum brakes well it's actually loose wow surprisingly almost a half an inch of pad left on each of the the pads it's pretty nasty gunked up but i mean these shafts look really good with a good cleaning and the brake if you see this line right here this is the uh parking brake and the parking brake cable on this side of the machine is actually stuck and will not disengage shoot even the inside of the drum actually looks really good plenty of life left i think we're gonna clean this baby up and it ought to be fine just gotta get everything free and moving again all right the leader valve for this brake drum is right back here i just want to crack it i know that i should probably be doing this with the drum on but there we go all right now watch right here when i press the brakes extends those pads out and then they would engage with the drum slowing it down so yeah that's good i think it was just one of the brake pads was bound up right here there's some surface rust right on the inside of this drum that's a great great problem to find simple fix all right just went in had dinner with the wife and kids and now i'm back at it so i'm gonna take the wire wheel to the inside of this drum kind of clean it up a bit it's looking a lot better a lot cleaner smoother do that rest away and i'll bring you back man this drum is exceedingly clean it is a really really good shape the bearing in it is still really good the seals look great i think we're gonna get away with uh not having to buy any parts for the brakes that's a first [Music] all right so i'm removing the parking brake cable because it's all seized up and i would like to have parking brakes bracket got that off now this cable here unplugs off of this thing and i'm betting it's all clogged up right in here yeah the spring isn't even doing anything it should be pushing it out i have to work it work it let me see you work it now it's moving a little i feel like there's a bind right here you can feel it kind of crunchy it's kind of solid hey there we go we're almost all the way out there we go check that out just gotta beat it there check that out so that's what it should look like so that is parking brake disengaged and it's pushed the cable all the way out so when you pull on it from this side which is the lever in the actual operator compartment area it will engage the parking brake i'm gonna keep working this put some vice grips on it pull it back and forth keep pounding uh penetrant sweet another part i don't have to buy heck yeah it's moving free now right scout anything moving free huh this is part of the parking brake mechanism and it is not moving real well ah so i gotta loosen this up all right so i took the brake pads off and i cleaned out the inside of the cylinder here and i'm cleaning out these little bores here with a wire wheel little baby wire brush on a on a drill so that's what these little blocks slide in and it needs to rotate and so i'm going to take these to the wire wheel the little cups inside that the plungers push on like this they're gonna go to the wire wheel i'm gonna wire wheel the little plungers i'm gonna get these cleaned up and i'll show you how this goes back together all right so this is the um the wheel cylinder basically what it does is when the brake pads are on it when you push the pedal for the brakes it puts pressure on a line that's attached right here and it goes into this wheel cylinder and then what happens is this is in the middle and it's got these two rubber ends like this sits in there like that and on either side is this aluminum cap and as you put pressure on the brakes the fluid in the the line and then in the wheel cylinder here pushes this out and as it pushes it out you see that notch right there that notch is attached and uh engages with the brake drum i'm sorry the brake pad assembly and so as it pushes out it causes the brake pad itself to get pushed out and then come in contact with the drum slash hub assembly and that's what breaks that's what stops the machine when you need to actually have brakes and because of uh the angle of this i had to kind of like pry this up a little to be able to get all this in there but this cut piece goes in first because i'm going to feed everything in from this one side so that'll go all the way through to that side and next up we got one of the rubber cups and those are the important part those are what actually do the sealing and then the spring goes between them and then we have the other rubber cup last but not least the other end and so as you push the brakes these extend out like that kicking out those brake drums allowing you to stop so all in all the brakes are in very very good shape and i'm really excited about that only problem was i had to disassemble everything just because it had been sitting for so long it just kind of got seized up and just wasn't wasn't moving as smoothly as it should be and these are just like dust covers they aren't actual seals all right now i got to get this cable back onto there i put the vice grips here got to be ready with these ones taking pry try this spring back there now i've got the cable exposed and i can sneak it down underneath and come on into this bracket there we go that's the parking brake cable one last final piece all right well everything's free now and i don't think there's any reason at all that we won't have good brakes plenty of pad left everything's all unseized everything works assuming these uh wheel cylinders seal which i think they will then we're gonna have plenty of brake power so now we gotta put fluid in it and bleed the lines all right on these hubs there are two bearings one here right at the inner and this goes on like that and then the second bearing is here and this is the outer they all look very good and i don't know how good they are there's a lip seal here and then another lip seal right in there i'm 90 positive that you grease these bearings rather than them being oiled through the actual axle shaft tube so i'm gonna grease them and if i end up wrong let me know in the comments if it should be some other way i believe that because there's an oil seal here and one on the inside it's meant to keep the grease from getting to the brake pads but if it is supposed to be completely oiled through the axle shaft definitely let me know in the comments a little grease in there is not going to hurt anything i'm not going to replace the bearings or the seals just yet i want to see if they leak i really don't want to spend the money right now but we're just going to start use some marine wheel bearing grease grab a handful and i'm not pressing this bearing out but i'm going to work the grease up into the bearing from this back side here put this hub on all right next up we've got the initial nut has a little uh little pin on it and that's a retainer pin so the pin faces out so next up is the retaining ring and it has a notch for the actual shaft here so you put it on and then if it doesn't line up with this pin you have to adjust the previous nut so it looks like i can just come on tighten it up just a little bit [Music] there we go and then the final nut holds everything on perfect now we're gonna have to adjust the brake pads inside the drum from the back side much nicer much flatter some of the burrs that have been created by trying to pound a chisel in to pull this away from the actual machine when you're trying to pull this shaft out knocked all those down flat and do the same kind of here on the edge as you can see on this one right here see where it's really uh silvery that's where those are high spots that i haven't gotten down to the face of the actual rim here and so you just keep filing keeping the file flat until you start filing across the whole face and i always try and leave the file extended across this section and and even further on another section so you can keep it flat here and here [Music] [Applause] there we go i don't technically know for sure if these need a gasket or not and they didn't have one but my thought is it's not gonna hurt anything so i might as well put one in there and if it is completely pointless then i'll have wasted my time but if it does need one at least i did it now and i don't take it apart now the axle shaft goes back in or the half axle or whatever the heck you want to call it all right just got done bleeding the brakes put this beast back together [Music] all right now on to the other side all right i gotta go in and loosen this brake drum i know i've got it all blocked up in like four places but you never feel safe underneath something like that i don't see how much fluid is in this front hub change on that and this is the long plug why are you so long there we go finally nothing came out probably not a good thing there comes some fluid drip i think it should be more full than that all right there's our fill plug so you fill it until it starts coming out of that hole should definitely have more and just that drip if you take a look at this electrical wire it was all completely covered in oil and grease and i've since cleaned it and it's actually in really good shape i was totally thinking about replacing it all because i thought all the the insulation on the wire had just decomposed but that is not true it just was covered in oil and grease so i've wiped most of it down we're going to cut out the rest of the electrical tape and a friend gave me some of this basically wire loom looks kind of nasty but it survived a flood so it's plastic and it's the kind that you can wrap on around the outside so you can basically wrap it around wire that's already installed without having to slip it through so i'm going to basically redo the wiring loom because i just want it kind of tucked up nice and neat and out of the way and the electrical tape is just completely falling apart that's what they've all that was how it was all loomed up was just with this tape that's totally lost its adhesive so we're gonna get rid of that just kind of wiping these wires with this rag to kind of break off all the built-up oil and junk from over the years surprisingly the wires are in good shape which i'm happy about adding this to existing wiring is a little painstaking takes a little time but in my opinion it's worth it because it protects the wires [Music] and electrical problems suck having to chase down issues just sure some people might enjoy it but i think most of us don't i can do it but if i can do this and avoid it keep everything in good shape i'd rather do that [Music] so this wire here somebody cut the cord or it broke and then they just scotch locked it back together that's not okay with me so i'm getting rid of this wire and we're gonna put a new actually i'll probably reuse this end because it has a barb on it and then get rid of this wire and just have a wire that goes all the way from this connector down to the solenoid [Music] all right here's our wire new uh round end i reused the plug because it's got this little barb here that fits up into this [Music] and that barb keeps it from pulling out [Music] so we got the little clicky clack fuel pump that we installed and currently it's just wired up with these little alligator clips one's going to the ignition coil so that it's keyed on and only basically engages once the key is on the other one's going directly over to the ground and so the plan is i made this little wiring harness just with a red and a black we're gonna run that wire from over in this area across with these wires and up into there and then we'll feed it up we'll go straight to the ignition coil there and then we'll tie into the ground somewhere over there but i want to include it in this harness with this uh with the wire the loom on it just to protect it and kind of keep it all together all right we got all the wiring done wire loom is basically around the majority of the exposed wires the ground wire for the clickety clack basically is grounded here along with the negative battery terminal and then i'm going to adjust where this thing goes once i get the new hydraulic hose in but i ran the loom all the way up through there to basically the bottom of the dash i haven't done anything with the wires up there yet [Music] but got it all the way over there and then that mess of wiring right there will all go away because that's just the alligator clips and then these two wires are going to be what go to that fuel pump and the red one is terminated here on the ignition coil so i tried to route everything out of the way and in a place that's not going to get touched by anything hot so yeah that's a heck of a lot cleaner heck of a lot safer for the wires and i'm much happier with that so all right let's get to the hydraulic hose so here's the hydraulic hard line and as you can see that's the crack so instead of going with another hard line decided to go with an actual hydraulic hose and so it'll fit something like that in there might have to shimmy this a little bit but i just think this is going to be a better option for that spot and there is plenty of room so let's get that in there now so we can test the hydraulics so i didn't have any of these like caps for the hydraulic the jic fittings so i just used just barely uh some pipe caps just don't thread them on you just kind of have them sit there just do that to keep stuff from getting in it there's our line [Music] all right so there's a big crack in this tube here here got a brand new chunk of hose this little uh buffer i might use and then a couple new hose clamps [Music] hmm so yeah so now with this new hose here we don't have contact right here in this area where these uh shift mechanisms are are at i do think i might stick this thing like right here or something so currently the high low lever is completely locked up this is the forward neutral reverse and it's a shaft inside of this shaft and when you move this high low i believe this whole rod should spin so i think it's either locked up here possibly down here but when i loosen this i literally get this handle just loose so when i loosen that it just loosens the handle lets it freewheel so all this thing does is clamp on to the the shaft here and it can't move because it's probably locked up right here so let's see if i can't free it up i'm gonna start taking out taking off this linkage here there's the cotter pin course it wants to go down all right so this one right here this is your forward and neutral in reverse [Music] and then this one here is the high low so let's see if it'll work okay all right so that tells us it's not locked up right there looks like there is some rust that wasn't there but all right well that's good that means it's not the mechanism on the transmission here i'm happy to see that so most likely right here this shaft is locked up i don't know maybe right here maybe within i don't know i'm wondering if this collar here if it's rusted up right in this collar so let's loosen it and see if we can figure out if that's the problem [Music] there we go i'm getting it so so so i want to drain the hydraulic fluid put some new stuff in it i saw some water in it earlier i don't know if there's any in the tank or not but [Music] another thing to go there it goes [Music] [Music] so a little over full but that'll be fine a couple of cylinders leak anyway so let's fire it up and see if the hydraulics work see if we've got brakes [Music] man we got a bad hydraulic leak i don't know if i've ever seen a cylinder that bad that's so that is definitely blown out big time there [Music] definitely a big leak right there on that main cylinder that's unfortunate [Music] hey when i hit that pedal it's all the way to the floor and then it stops and so i think i need to go through those again probably maybe even adjust them tighter um on the actual or i guess yeah expand them out which would be tighter closer to the drums the motor seems like it's got it's not getting enough power and i don't believe that that's the engine itself that's not having an issue i believe it's the carburetor and because i've been having i mean all the initial problems with the engine after we got it all owned and put back together were carburetor issues not getting enough fuel or getting too much and so if you know where one of these carburetors is even if it's just a parts one even if it's junk this one was junk and let me know i mean i would buy it off you i i really don't want to spend 300 on a new one there are aftermarket new ones you can buy for this machine or for you know this motor and i want to avoid that i've been looking for the main jet and then the main nozzle and really the main nozzle is what i really need but i can't find them anywhere online and none of the carb kits contain the main jet or the main nozzle they all have all the other pieces the accelerator pump all of the you know float needles and etc um i don't think those are my problem i think that in the main nozzle in the main jet it's either getting too much or not enough fuel and based on the way it acts when you're really trying to step on the gas hard i don't think it's getting enough fuel all right i readjusted the brakes so let's find out if it made any difference on our braking [Music] [Music] hmm so [Music] um all right so we've got brake pressure and it stops it runs it moves it just doesn't lift so the big plan next is to get the cylinder fixed get a couple other maybe leak cylinders rebuilt and then kind of do a few other miscellaneous things one thing this thing the transmission when you when you engage it it doesn't like it's not like ready to go right away and so is that something with an old hydrostatic transmission where i mean could it be a clogged filter could it be is there something else that i can adjust or look into if you have any ideas on that let me know down in the comments i'd love to know you know i this old beast is you know the first one like it i've had i've never ever worked on one before and so i'm just kind of figuring my way through this but but yeah i am excited it runs operates moves stops doesn't spray hydraulic every fluid everywhere unless you use the big cylinder and so yeah absolutely awesome if you enjoy the projects please consider subscribing and if you don't that's fine too it doesn't really matter to me at the end of the day i really appreciate your time and thank you for being here but a lot more to come from salvage workshop and all my crazy projects so i look forward to seeing you guys on the next video you

Channel: Salvage Workshop

Views: 158,641

Rating: 4.964129 out of 5

Keywords: WillitStart, WillitDrive, ForkTruck, Hyster, WillitStop, tractors, antique, Fork Lift, Tractor, heavy, machine, machinery, heavy machinery, old iron, rescued, rescue, saved, save, junk, junkyard, picker, restore, cat, komatsu, yanmar, hitachi, hydraulic, broken, head gasket, problems, tow, pull, john deere, case, crawler, vintage, will it run, recovery, recovered, restoration, old machinery, Caterpillar, ihi, american, IH, solving problems, skid steer, JCB, JLG, abandoned, skid loader, clark, doosan, toyota, ford

Id: tH-NHRY8gOk

Length: 57min 5sec (3425 seconds)

Published: Sat May 22 2021