Inserted and Special Lathe tools

hi welcome back ox tools I'm tom so we put up a little video the other day of turning these pins here we were turning and knurling these pins and we had a couple of comments on about tooling some of the tooling that I'm using and tooling suggestions and things like that so I thought I'd do a little short video well I don't know how short it's going to be we'll see on some of my favorite tools for lane work stick with the lathe for now turning inserts parting tools things like that we'll just kind of go over a few things and then what I thought I would do is show you guys a tool bit that I haven't seen too many other people use I learned it from an old guy that worked for us many ago who was just brutally fast the guy had all kinds of tricks up his sleeve and he was phenomenally fast and anyway I learned a bunch of stuff from him and showed me these tool bits or he use them all the time and and I picked up on the utility of them anyway we're going to grab one of those from scratch which you guys will be interested in it's an easy tool to grind it's just not something you think about but he did and it's a pretty efficient tool for certain kinds of operations so I'm going to get in and we're going to do some close-ups on some of this stuff and I'll show you some tools in my inventory here that I use over and over and over again all the time and in any shop that I managed or I've got these tools in there and generally guys like them and they're pretty happy with it so let's get into the close-ups we'll show you some tools and then we'll get to grinding into it okay so I'll show you the inserts first the I got to put my glasses on here even though so the the steel turning that I was doing the other day on those press pins I was using this little this is a WN mg insert it's made by iskar and it's got a kind of a general I kind of call it a general purpose chip breaker so here's the here's the poop on it here WN mg 3 - 1 - P P and the P P is the chip breaker and this this little pup here is good for stainless steel now doesn't have any steel data but it works killer on steel - so we kind of use this insert or I use this insert for hard materials kind of like stainless steel steel I guess yeah I had done some cast iron with it and it works well on cast on cast iron it's pretty straightforward the chips break so it's it's not usually a pain in the neck so this is a negative geometry insert which means you can flip it over so and this has three cutting edges per side so you get six six cutting edges out of this little guy right here and these are like seven bucks a pop from this car you know kind of name-brand ones and so these are fairly economical and you I guess you can see that the nose radius it's on there so it's kind of a I generally don't go for huge nose radiuses I mean the tools lasts a little longer but I might find well I'll explain a little bit more in a minute so about that so that's a double unit excuse me wnm G kind of Tom's general purpose for hard materials Steel's the stainless now here's here's my little favorite guy for for soft materials this would be your aluminum plastic copper you know things like that and this thing this thing is razor sharp everyone smile you'll see I'll have little cuts on the back of my hand and that's usually for bumping into one of these little pecker woods here this thing you know you could pretty much shave with that small radius I think this is a the kind of looks like about $8 a do something like that so I generally get kind of smallish radiuses in these too and the reason is so here's a here's the holder so there's the insert in the holder and this is a SCLC are 123 and the 123 is just a shank size so it's a screw down insert that's a positive insert I only get I only get two edges out of this particular geometry which is okay now these are a little more expensive but I think they're worth it and these are vard accents or these particular ones there's a lot of people that make a polished insert like this so but it's high positive and and polish so the chips kind of flow off of that top edge which is what's really neat about it and works real well so anyway but that this particular insert here that style the S this 80 degree diamond here there's a lot of geometries available for this so you can with this same holder I can switch this out and go to a stainless steel insert to one that's kind of optimized for stainless steel and I'll look in a second see if I could pull one out and and show you and what that does is my boring bars also kind of use the same one so yeah the inserts a little more expensive but I get to use it in a bunch of different places that's the key to me is it kind of works pretty good all the way around and with a boring tool you know you want a you want a small corner radius to keep from chattering and then you want your front edge pretty close to 90 degrees for eliminating chatter okay so if you want a durable tool you're going to put a lot of lead angle in it okay but if you want one that doesn't chatter which is usually everybody's problem with boring okay is controlling chatter especially when these suckers are hanging way out there you want your front edge pretty close to 90 degrees in a small tight corner radius now this is a solid carbide boring bar so this one's pretty this one performs pretty well and even when it's hanging out pretty good because it's stiffer than steel not stronger than steel stiffer than steel and has a higher modulus of elasticity than steel does so that's why it works better as a boring bar okay it's not strength its modulus of elasticity which is really its stiffness ratio okay so that's why car buy tools don't chatter as well generally don't chatter as much as steel tools okay so here's the here's the iskar holder this is an MW LNR 12 w 3w and that's 3/4 shank and oops I got a bunch of chips are falling out and you can see it's a clamp down insert there and you know you can index it around and then flip it over pretty easily there and you can see that the holders pointed downhill and with that chip breaker so that presents a positive edge and that's one of the reasons this tool performs pretty well is that it's it's presenting a kind of a positive edge to the to the work you know the more positive your tools are the free or cutting the are but the more delicate they are it's the the razor and the axe right so the straight razor cuts really good and freely but the edge isn't very durable but the the axe can take some abuse but it's not really good for shaving with right okay so the best of both worlds is something that is so sharp that you can shave with it but has a durability of say an axe and that would be a really good lathe tool but they don't make them so so anyway there's close-up of those two guys and oh yeah I was going to see if I have a stainless insert that that fits that holder let me let me go look okay so here's some these are Mitsubishi's here and this is a stainless geometry here and this is telling me the starting place I love this stuff you know these cutting speeds that they they list on the the tooling packages here so this was our our WN mg here and it's saying a good starting place is 662 980 surface feet per minute that's 200 to 300 meters per minute cutting velocity okay so that's like in the stratosphere okay but you know these are the guys that sell inserts so they want to sell you lots of inserts and I don't doubt that the tool works at those those regions under really good conditions you know kind of optimal cutting conditions so this particular one says oh yeah go ahead and do you know 475 to 245 or 245 to 475 surface feet 75 to 145 meters a minute and then we'll look at the look at the geometry and you can see the geometry here is is considerably different this one is the high positive this one's much flatter on top okay which makes it stronger like the axe and this is more like the straight razor here okay now these two inserts are the same size so what that means is you know in a heart I don't have to buy another holder right I just unscrew that little guy and then bleep drop that in there and now now I'm doing stainless steel and this is a finishing insert here and I'm gonna looks like about eight doubt well maybe 16003 80 or something like that Porter Melhem let's see quarter millimeter is four thousandths so half millimeter radius something like that okay and same thing with the boring bar here is I can go bleep and I can you can just immediately switch over to stainless steel you know without taking the tool you know get another boring bar and having another another whole set up there okay now these are CCM T and the O nine is the is the radius or excuse me the CCM T 32.5 one that the 2.5 is the radius the three is a basic insert size and the one is I don't know what the one is in this this particular grade of carbide is us 735 Mitsubishi and I don't have a box for this and I can't remember all that all the numbers I just call my local tool supplier western tool here and at Livermore and call my buddy herb say give me some more of those vortexes so that's how I order um anyway so those are two two of my kind of favorite turning turning tools there for for the light ok and now we'll talk about a general special tool that we're going to grind from scratch okay so um we're going to talk about now is kind of a special tool bit and we're going to we're going to grind one out of this this half-inch cobalt tool bit here if I was smart I'd probably just grind this out of plastic just to make my life easier for demonstration purposes but I want to show it cutting too and so we're going to grind one from scratch from dead-on scratch here and then we'll do some cutting with it and will demo the cutting so I really commonly the operation is to to make a little part that looks like this okay so basically you know your classic bushing you know and it's you know it's got some length here right okay and then it's got a you know it's got an ID and then you know it's got an OD okay so you know these get made every day all day long on on lays okay so typically what you would do is you know you'd start out with some you know actually you know what I got I got a tube here so you'd start out with some stock here right and then you would you would turn the OD right and then you know to this correct diameter here and then you would bore the ID now this happens to be a tube here so you drill bore the ID and then you know maybe break these edges a little bit and then part it off and that's your bushing okay and and then you know you'd slide the stock out a little bit more and then you would do that again I need to do it again and you do it again so maybe you need you know 20 of these things or 2,000 of these things or something I don't know pretty common operation they have to make a handful of bushings you know with you know various diameters here at various diameters here in various lengths there right so what we normally do is you know we put a turning tool in like we just showed and you know we turn the OD and then we'd switch to maybe a chamfering tool and we'd break that edge and then we come in with a drill we drill in there and then come in with a boring bar and bore that very carefully and then we might break this little edge right here okay and then come over with a parting tool and and then and I probably shown videos of this very similar type of operation then we would part this maybe part way come in with a chamfering tool and just break that edge you know this edge here on the from the parting groove right and and then the piece comes off and then we flip it around and then we break that other edge that we just parted up okay so like I said it's just a really common operation okay so what we're going to do is we're going to we're going to grind a tool kind of from scratch that will do all of these operations kind of in one tool and you say well gee why would you want to do that with one tool right well it's efficiency okay so if I can turn this and chamfer it and we not we're not going to do every single operation okay so if I can face turn and chamfer with one tool that saves maybe two tool changes per part okay now if you got to do a couple hundred parts you know you could do the math on that and kind of figure that out right it starts to make you know if you're going to do one okay it's not a big deal all right you're not going to need one of these tools but if you're doing a whole bunch of parts well you know what I'm going to pick another blank that has a has a lead already ground on it just talking to myself and if you're going to do a couple hundred of these yeah you're gonna you're going to want something like this so the tool what it's going to look like here and I like to actually you know what let me let me drop this down and get in even closer here see if I can get in a little closer messing up anything so this is how we're going to present to the work here like that right so we're going to want our chamfer angle here which in this case is going to be 45 degrees and and then we're going to want to put an internal edge on it and then we have to relieve this tool back like that okay all right so it's going to be something like that and then the reliefs are what gets a little bit tricky on this particular part here so I'll kind of demonstrate with our unground tool here so what we're going to do here is with this corner here that now we can face with that okay we can face with that and then with that front edge we can turn okay and this little internal edge here we can reach inside and it's going to reach in there and be able to chamfer that ID okay and then when we come to our groove here while we're doing all this we can plunge in in the right place okay and then come back with our parting tool and come in with our parting tool and part that off and just leave the part of that chamfer there okay so now you end up with your bushing and you got it faced turn chamfered OD chamfered ID and back chamfer on the you know on the part off okay so you just saved a bunch of tool changes and you know people were asking about tooling and stuff like that so I thought I'd show a tool bit that I haven't seen too many people using anything like it so we'll go ahead and excuse me we'll go ahead and grind one of those up and what I was saying to myself earlier is this little bit here a lot of them come a lot of them come you know and they have a they have opposing bitter you know same angle bevels on either end right which gives you a little head start on the relief if you've ground much COBOL it doesn't grind really good it takes you a little while that whittle away at it so this is a this is 10% cobalt from Espana this is a Spanish tool I'm going to look in my box and see if I have another blank that's maybe you know 5% cobalt which make it grind a little bit easier and one that has a relief already kind of started for me on it so I'm going to dig through there and see what I can find okay I went and looked in my box I also noticed it looked like there was a little drop of oil on the lens of my camera sorry about that guys I apologized I didn't look and I'm not going to reshoot that footage just but I've saw it at least and now it's clear so we saw the Spanish tool bit here it doesn't have any particularly well here's another one and this is a Allegheny Lud Ludlum and it's got a real radical starting angle on it I'm not sure this it says t4 on it I'm not sure what kind of tool steel this is exactly it's kind of got a dark finish on it and generally I prefer the the ground finish ones here and this is a moment called Cleveland it's you know it's 12-minute hour 13 millimeter tool half inch tool and it's got a little lead giving us a little start there the world there and it's ground on all sides real nice so this is going to be our we're going to recreate this geometry on here and I just kind of you know this is just rough sketching here something like that is what we're going to all right dumbbell so I I sketch it on the wrong side of the tool because I want the relief underneath so you gotta pay attention right all right one more time something like that and this is just a relief so that we can when we face you know we can face a decent diameter here and in this width right here that with there should be a little wider than whatever grinding wheel that you have to work with you know you can make it as long as you want you know you can make it come out here if you want you know but that's kind of a long springy tool so I like to you know so hey I'm working with two-inch stuff for inch and 3/4 stuff or 50 millimeter stock on it whatever it is right you're going to grind that back far enough so that you can do the job right so they're there you can you can't even see that so here we can see it so if we grind back to there our point are our facing point can make it all the way to the center and and be fine okay so that width of this be what you need to get to the center of your stock all right so now we're going to go set up on the set up on the grinder and do a bunch of grinding on that I'll probably speed up a lot of that because it's really you know it takes a while to whittle away at this stuff and it gets hot and you got to cool it off and pretty boring video but I'll speed it up and still be able to see what's going on and and then we'll test the tool all right so here's a here's my little my little bench grinder for doing tool bits so this is this your standard six inch little bench grinder this is an old Casey Kingston Conley from New Jersey North Plainfield New Jersey and this thing I got this from an old Dutch tool maker that I work with that died and I got some of his some of his tools and machines when he died anyway this thing is one of the smoothest little grinders that I've ever used in fact I'm just going to turn it on so it it's smooth as silk now I don't even have this bolted down and and people people might say oh do you have to have that bolted down well what I find is a lot of times I want it earn it like that and just so I can get at things or I'm working on the side and I want to bring it off of the bench or something like that so I kind of not bolted it down on purpose and you see it's taking a while to spin down it's it's as smooth as silk and then whenever I change the wheels I I phase the wheels so that the thing runs really smoothly so any out of balance in the wheels I take out by clocking them in relation to one another until I get the thing running real real smooth so this side here this is a silicon carbide wheel and I grind Tungsten's on that side exclusively and in fact a lot of times I just don't even have this guard on there I hinge it way out of the way so I can get in there easier with the Tungsten's and then this side I kind of saved for roughing out tool bits I don't do a lot of tool bit grinding anymore most of it I handle with you know inserts and stuff that I already have so it's generally a little touch-up stuff and I do that on the ballot or to a touch-up tool bits so a couple things here will dress the wheel with just this Huntington dresser just to clean any crud in the wheel off and make it cut nice and free you know free cutting of braces make less heat and you know it's all good I got a little quench tank here and you go good what's in there milkshake this is the soluble oil in here and so when i dip my tool in there or whatever I happen to be grinding not Tungsten's though it gets a little bit of oil on it and then if I set it down or whatever that freshly ground surface this doesn't rust it doesn't cool any better than water in particular but it just keeps things from rusting you know if you set them down or set them aside and then the the crap that goes in there because typically it's you know near the grinder right the grinding dust that goes in there doesn't turn into a rusty mess and then we've got our tool bit here that we're going to grind and then I got a protractor here so that I can get the angles oriented correctly with the sides here since I just kind of sketched that in by hand once we rough it in get it close we'll start checking it with the protractor and kind of get things you know square with the world you know I didn't really have to be but it just makes it easier to get an alignment if you you know build in an alignment from the beginning so anyway that's what we're going to do there so I'm going to try to zoom it in I don't want to get my camera too close to the action here so I'll probably zoom in a little bit and so you guys can see what's going on there and so I have to get my camera to close I don't have a blast shield for the front of it so I'll just back off a little and hopefully they'll love the video come out okay okay so you can kind of get an idea how close were zoomed in there and that's where we're going to try it so I'm I'm putting some gloves on here just because the tool is going to get warm and you know you're pushing you're pushing on these kind of sharp corners here so this more comfortable so first thing I'm just gonna I'm just going to dress the wheel with the huntingtin here okay that just kind of cleans it up and gets it gets it free cutting here so first off I'm just going to cut that relief in there see it's going to take a while and we'll do a little like this at a wider angle here too you alright that's looking pretty good there so I'm going to do a little work on the front now Meah zoom in on it you yeah that's pretty close see the little tip that's left we're gonna round that just slightly okay pretty good okay so we're over here on the baldor carbide grinder I've got the table tip down pretty good and we're going to come in here we're going to we're going to clean that edge up nice and straight and then we're going to diss dust these edges off so that the so that they have really crisp cutting edges kick this up a little bit debt okay boom boom okay I need my magnifier so what I'm what I'm looking at here is I want it parallel with that I want this edge parallel with that edge so that's what I'm looking at and I'm not going to take a lot of material with this it's really just to square things up and and establish it nice and nice and square yeah I don't I don't even need a full clean on that phase you know my angle was set right before yeah my ankles off a little bit here so I'll probably go back over to the bench grinder and and true that up a little bit the angles got to come down a little bit like this and then that one will follow it so okay so I went back to the I went back to the bench grinder and got that edge at 45 degrees to the to the side here real nice okay and then then what I did is I use my my centering head here to make sure that that was ninety two that okay now what I'll do is go back in here and tune that edge up a little bit it's a short edge so it's not going to take very much to address that back that's pretty good getting the idea there right me I'm just kissing that little corner there to make it cut real smoothly I'm going to do the same thing here so all I did was just kind of faceted I hit it and bump-bump-bump kind of three places then we'll take a diamond hone and hone that real nice and then we'll go give this thing a try see how it cuts okay so I'm just going to what I'm doing is I'm just referencing that and referencing the flat oh yeah now this one's a no actually you know what I need to kiss that hey that's all you need right there you see that little flat it's all we need and that one's already done you see that yeah okay I think we're ready for a test here let's go get this set up in the lay then we'll do a little we'll do a little test okay so we put our piece of tubing in here and we're going to give this a give this a little try see how it works so first we're going to will try the facing looks like it works we're going to test the we're just checking it now okay let's see if it's got enough clearance in the right places all right there's the IIE champer right there on that edge od chamfer okay all right so let's use everything now touch up I gotta get my magnifier sorry guys let's get an old ship is getting old all right that job come in take a few thousand feet out okay we're just going to pretend that we had that we had drilled and bored that okay we're going to come in and just kiss that little edge break it you then this would this be from straight turning now there's no chip breakers in this because it messes with your your chamfering thing okay and let's just pretend that was let's say we're making out wait we got to go back and we're going to tamper that edge to all right and let's say we're parting off a ring somewhere in there we're just going to plunge in there like that all right and now what we'll do is then I'm going to move the camera here all right so I went ahead and just change it to a parting tool you know and you would work out the numbers you know where the right places are to do all this stuff we're just going to do that right there and you see that it's I've left the chamfer both you if you part up in the right place you leave the chamfer and there's our bit and then this ring well you can pop that up it's a little bit warm right now because I wasn't using enough so we faced it we chamfered the ID chamfered the OD we chamfered the backside and then parted it up and that's a pretty common length part there so okay so anyway we showed the we showed that a face turn chamfered bit for makin tubular bushing type parts and grinding some geometry into a tool that that saves you a bunch of tool changes like I said you wouldn't you wouldn't do it for one like this but if you have a lot of these to do in a plastic or aluminum or even steel or stainless depending on you know you could grind one of these out of carbide just as easily to anyway yet it's not too bad to make and it's kind of a useful tool that's I don't know kind of unique I guess and then you can do a part like that so I hope you like that that's a trick from a guy named Mike darlin he's dead now he died of lung cancer I don't know 15 years ago something like that I worked with him for quite a few years and anyway he was lightning fast and had some really cool techniques for moving quickly and learned a lot from him and I miss him and I appreciate the AK out so pay attention to old guys okay so that's the lesson for today so anyway hope you guys liked it throw some comments up there if you liked that you got some ideas some other things you want to see go ahead and put them in the comments okay and I can't promise I'll get to everything but somebody mentioned tool bits and tooling and so I wanted to do a quick video on that and show people some of the things I like you know it's not right for every job obviously and you got to find your own way in this stuff but sometimes you just need a starting place and and so hopefully you guys got something out of that anyway talk to you later

Channel: oxtoolco

Views: 43,636

Rating: 4.9362378 out of 5

Keywords: Lathe, Machine work, Lathe cutting tool, Special lathe tool, Tom Lipton, Oxtool, Nothing too strong ever broke, How to grind a tool bit, Metalworking, High speed tool

Id: uzPIUsMtUEM

Length: 46min 44sec (2804 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 30 2013