Hi - I'm Ron Covell and I have some great news! I was recently contacted by my
favorite person on YouTube This Old Tony, and he asked about doing a
collaboration. If you're not familiar with Tony's
channel, I think you'll love what he does. He's very deserving of the 900,000
subscribers he's rapidly approaching. His videos cover a broad spectrum of
topics, with a special emphasis on machining and metal fabrication, but
he also gets into special projects like building a pasta machine, a go-kart, and he's even done some experiments with
time travel. I'm afraid I just don't have time to
explain --- Okay now I should have some time to
explain. Tony is a highly talented craftsman and designer, but his totally unique style, and his wry sense of humor set his videos apart. You'll find a link to his channel in the description below. After tossing some ideas around, we decided to make dustpans. I volunteered to make two sheet metal pans, and Tony will make two handles. When finished, we'll swap parts, so we each will have one complete dust pan. So why would you make a big production out of constructing a dustpan,
when you can buy one inexpensively? Well, there's more to life than just being
practical, but also, I'll demonstrate some great
layout and fabrication techniques I don't think you'll see anywhere else. These might help you with your own projects, so let's dive in. The first step in making the dustpan is
to make a full-size layout of the top view of the pan itself. So I'll be working on heavy paper here. And I'm going to do my layout based on two lines. This line is spaced 2 inches from the front edge, and this is the center line. I want the overall width of the pan to be 15 inches. So I'll measure out 7 1/2 inches on each side of center, and make a mark there. And I want the dust pan to be 9
inches deep, so I'll make a couple of marks 9 inches back from the layout line, and I'll connect these points with a straight line, So we have the front and back edges laid out. I want the sides to taper at a 10 degree
angle, so I have a protractor set to 10 degrees.
So I'll line this up on the front edge, and I'll draw a line to the back. I want a fairly generous radius in these
corners, so I've cut a disc to be 7 inches in
diameter. I'll put this disc in place so it's tangent to the two lines, and I'll draw an arc. So these lines show the perimeter of the pan. I want to give this back edge a
little bit of a curve, so to do that I'll clamp my straight edge to a weight,
and I'll just give it a little bit of an arch, and I'll set it so it's tangent to both these curves, and draw a slight arch, So that's the all over shape of the pan. The dust pan will be made of two basic parts. One is the base of it, basically the flat part, then there's going to be walls on the back and the side. And at the top of that wall I want there
to be a flange. So to create this shape I'm going to
make a hammerform from wood, but I want the top edge of these walls
to have a nicely radiused edge. I'm going to make the top layer of the hammerform from 1/4 inch round steel bar, so I'm
going to use two lines of 1/4 inch wide masking
tape to enlarge my layout, to show me how the
perimeter looks with that 1/2 inch flange. So there's our first pass. Now I'll add
another 1/4 inch to that, and that will give me the 1/2 inch
border that I want. So the outside edge of the tape shows
the border of the flange at the top of the dust pan. So the next step is bending a bar to match this curve, and I'll show you how that's done. I'm going to make a fixture for bending
the 1/4 inch steel bar. So this is 3/4 inch thick MDF -
Medium Density Fiberboard, and I've made a template here. It's a 6
inch diameter circle. I've learned that the 1/4 inch rod
springs back about 15 or 20 percent, so if we bend it over a 6 inch circle, when it springs back it should match the
7 inch circle on our pattern. So I'm going to make a line around the perimeter of this disc, and then we'll cut on that line - but
also I want to put a little bit of curve in here, so it matches the curve on our pattern. So let me get our straight edge here, and I'm just going to eyeball a curve that I think might be right. I can change this pattern as many times as I need to, until the part comes off at just the shape we want. So that's going to be our first trial with this, and I'll make the cut. I'll sand the edge of this to smooth it
up, then I'll bend a piece of 1/4 inch rod around this form, and see how well that matches our template. It's time to make the first test bend. So I have this bending fixture clamped to
my workbench, and I put a stop block right next to it,
with just enough space between the stop block and the form that I can put a piece of 1/4 inch bar in that space. The stop block has another stop on this end, so I can repeat the bends by
bringing the bar tight against this stop. So let's bend this against the form and see what we get. So it makes a very smooth bend, but I'm
not at all sure how well it matches our pattern. So let's lay this right on the pattern and we can check it out. So there's a little angular difference here. Let's see how the curved part matches. Actually, when I line it up on this curve and this curve, it looks just about perfect. So I'm very happy with the curved part of it, and the only change we need to make to the form is to bend this angle a little bit steeper. So I'm measuring that angle at about 5 degrees. So if this bends 5 degrees more, that
will give us the bend we need. All I need to do is to modify our bending form. I've cut a paper template that matches
the curve on the form. Let's put that into place, and I'll
rotate this about 5 degrees, then I'll mark a new line, then I can cut on this line, and we'll bend another test piece. I recut this edge - I'm going to re-bend
this bar. I'll slide this all the way into the fixture until it bottoms out, pull it tight against the form, then we'll try it on our full size
layout, and that looks excellent. So now I'll cut a bar that's long enough to do both sides. So this piece of sock is long enough to make the full piece. Let's put it into the fixture and make the first bend. Now I'm going to try this on the pattern,
and my goal is to find the center very accurately. So we'll lay this into place, make sure it's fitting just so. I'm going
to put a center mark on this. Now to find the length I need to trim
this to, I'm going to use a technique called Rollation. And I didn't make that up - this is a legitimate layout technique. So I'm putting a mark on the table
that's in line with the center line I put on this part. And when I started, I started with this edge flush with the edge of the table. So what I need to do now is to put the center line on the mark I just made,
and then wherever this crosses over the table edge, that's where I need to trim this so that when I make the second bend, it will come out to be exactly as wide as the pattern. So I'm going to quickly make that cut off camera. Now I'll make the second bend. And we'll try this on the pattern. And by gosh that is just about perfect. Looks like it's closed in a little bit more than I wanted, so I'm going to open this up by hand just a tiny bit. And that is within 1/16 of an inch of our pattern. That's good enough for a dust pan. Now if you're making the space shuttle door, you might have to get a little greater
accuracy, but for work like this, that's plenty good. So I'm very happy with how this inner bar has shaped, and the next step is to bend another bar that fits tightly around the outside of
this. I have the outer band fitted now, and as
you can see, it's just about a perfect fit. And let me give you a little insight about how I went about making the outer band. I used the same fixture - I didn't want to
make another fixture - and you can see that bending two bars around the same fixture, the outer bar requires a bigger radius.
So it's more difficult to put a bend into a bar but it's much easier to take a bend out, so I simply opened up the bend by hand
until I got a very nice fit. So you can see in this area those two match just about perfectly now. So now I'll tack weld these two parts
together. I have the material clamped together,
and now I'm ready to make the tack welds. Here are the two bars tacked together,
and now we can try them against the pattern, and it looks like the fit is excellent. Very very good fit up - certainly good
enough for a dust pan. So I'm going to use screws to hold the
steel bars to the wooden hammerform. So I'm going to lay out and drill a
screw hole between each of the tack welds. Now I'll drill the clearance hole for
the screw, And the last step is countersinking each
screw hole, so the flat head screws will fit flush. This is the size screw I'll be using,
it's a #6 drywall screw. So I'll countersink it deep enough so
the head of this screw becomes flush. That looks good. All of the holes are countersunk, and all
of the screws fit flush. It's time to start working on the wooden
part of the hammerform now. I'm going to position this steel bar
an inch and 1/4 away from this edge, so I'll put a small mark on the wood, at an inch and 1/4. Then I'll screw this steel part into place, using drywall screws. And I want to cut a border on this wood
an inch and 1/4 away from this edge, all the way around. So I have a piece of inch and 1/4 stock here. I'll put the stock right up against the steel, and draw a line. I'll draw another line on the other side. And then using a saber saw, I'll cut on
these two lines. I'll slide the wood down for the next
cut. The material i'm using is 1/2 inch
thick plywood, and I want my hammerform to be a total
of 2 inches thick, so I need 4 pieces cut exactly to the
same size. So I have all the pieces of plywood cut
to size. I cut one extra piece, and you'll see why
I want that before long. I want to put a couple of lines on this
so I can remember how these stack together. I also want to round the top corners, so
I made a template here that shows the radius I want to cut it to. I'm also going to drill holes for alignment pins. It will be crucial to keep these aligned perfectly as we get on to the next steps. I've trimmed all the pieces, drilled the alignment holes, and smoothed the edges. I'm going to make a cut around the inner edge of the bar to separate the inner part of the hammerform from the outer part. And I want this cut to be at a 20 degree angle, so I made a simple fixture. I found a piece of tubing that a pencil is a snug fit inside, and I tack welded the tube to a small bar of steel, so I could clamp this assembly to a bevel protractor. And I've set the angle so that it's exactly 20 degrees between the base of the protractor
and the angled edge of the pencil. So with this assembly, I'm going to drag it around the edge of the form, and make a mark right on the wood at this 20 degree angle. So that's the mark I'll cut on. I'm putting a spacer block on my table so the jigsaw blade won't hit the table.
So let's get this clamped into place, and I've set my saber saw at a 20 degree
angle. So I'm going to make the cut all the way
around the perimeter. So there's our first cut. With the top layer cut, I can put it into place align it with the pins, and then use the edge of the top layer
to mark the second layer for trimming. The centers are cut out of all these pieces,
so let me put the sack together and align it with pins. These are the centers that were cut out. So, the next thing I want to do is to cut
the center out of the inner portion - that will allow me to get clamps between
these two pieces. So I'm going to use a compass to mark
the cut line on this part. I've cut the centers out of these inner
pieces, and now I'm ready to start gluing these parts together. We'll do it one layer at a time. I'm using a yellow wood glue. We'll put the next layer into place,
align everything with the pins and put some more glue down. Now I'm going to wipe down some of the excess glue that's squeezing
out. I'll let the glue set up for a few hours,
then I'll use this same clamping procedure to glue together the stack of wood for the inner part of the hammerform. Here's the first lamination - it came out very nice. I'm going to sand this smooth now, and you can see I've screwed the steel bar
into place. There's actually a little step in most
places between the bar and the wood, So I need to sand this down until it's
completely tangent with the steel. So a convenient way to sand the inside corner here is by using a sanding drum. So I'm going to sand this until it just touches that 1/4 inch bar. I've sanded this down, and I have good
contact with steel all the way from the end to this point. I can get the flat sections a little bit smoother by using a sanding block. This section is smoothed up very nicely,
so I'll reorient this, and do the last section. At this point the hammerform is
completed. I'm confident the shaping will go well, since the hammerform eliminates all the guesswork. In the next video I'll pattern the metal blank, and shape it over the form. I'll see you then!
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2zHxJMtQKc
nice!