IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 || Women's Combined Lead qualification

[Music] [Applause] good evening welcome back to Toulouse the culmination of the Women's qualifying round about to get underway here on the lead while we've had speed with head bobbing and now it is time for the Li the final component of the three as it stands right now much Careca which is leading the way she had a fantastic time earlier on on the boulder wall but it could be just about anyone's let's have a look at the combined rankings totality have already mentioned much the record made in the way there she is 15th in the speed not a great start but not too bad and then followed it up with first on the boulders it's gonna be pretty hard to displace her from a slot in the final Julia Kalina currently in second also with the wall next to her name in one of the disciplines it was speed for her and then she was second-to-last 21st in the bowl of them Ealing song I'm re CARICOM defeat our burrito Julia Shinobi Mia crumble our Agora and famiiy she bare the top 10 as it sounds remember this is a combined competition climbers do all three disciplines and their ranking in each discipline one to twenty two because we have 22 competitors and it's multiplied by their ranking in the other disciplines so it's for example 3 x 3 x 3 if you are third in all three disciplines which it could be 27 points obviously the lower points the better this multiplication system it found that we don't add the scores together we multiply them by each other means that sir you can quickly fire down the order just by slipping a couple of ranking places in an individual discipline so it really does mean that everything is on the table until the last climber has competed attended this is the starting order on the lead while Yulia coplanar will be first out the starting order remains fixed all the way through a qualification day completing it was first on the speedwall first and the boulders and now she's first on the lead and it we Santander Margo Hayes Alexandra come look al nusra Kavya Lana yet Lowry Gauri Yevgenia Kazbek / more on her in just a second then Airy sandy Raheja Enoshima Shara a she then saucer yelling sock a new job at Kyra Conde Futaba ESO Mia crumpled I'm re Julia channel D Jane Kim Fanny geebeare Yu Tong Jane and finally looker raka I said more about if Kenny and Kaz pankova and a bit later on if you watch the our Bowl the coverage you will know that she picked up a fairly nasty looking knee injury on the first ball that she was trying to do a fairly heinous move rolling onto a hail which was right in front of her waist and it was a really awkward looking move she fell off unexpectedly kind of popped off the move picked up a knee injury she could barely walk to the remaining boulders somehow through sheer determination alone managed to secure two tops and she will compete on the lead wall we were told as we went off air from the boulders that she would be competing and I said that at the end of the boulder broadcast apparently she will compete however hopes are not high that she is fully fit and I think she is competing out of optimism as much as anything from what I hear the knee injury is severe enough that it's really going to affect her performance going to severely affect her ability to heal up and the route which you've just taking a look at will have quite a lot of heel hooks so we don't expect if Kenya Kazbek over to be able to give her all to the route the injury is considered to be relatively serious but you will compete despite what we were initially told and let's just see how fast you can get so you exceeded all our expectations on the boulders with two tops you just never know but it's sadly very beginning is not looking good for her on the lead so Julia sorry Yulia Kalina gets under way this woman's lead route currently sitting in the second place we know in this combined format that if you do win one of the disciplines as she did in the speed very hard for anybody to knock you out of a place in the final but she was second to last on the boulders I think if she could be somewhere in the top 20 on the lead she'd probably take that we've got five so-called speed specialists and this woman's competition today completer being the first one of them you suspect unless somebody has a slit very low down the five of them will be battling it out to the bottom five spots in the lead just as they ended up doing in the bowl first chance to have a good look at the route anyway after this volume section two climbers hit series of big purple balls see you leak a plane it will give it tired already but prettier the good fly on this lower section first of many heel hooks if you can progress needs to be quite careful here still relatively low to the ground and probably could have done with getting clipped up she ended up I think she's okay here like a minute and it opened a bit of a sketchy situation suddenly there she was a long way above the last clip clearly either too tired or not in a position to do the next clip and still relatively close to the ground it suddenly looked potentially rather scary and so crude clobbered the be like he looks quite a young lad he looks like he might actually be a couple of kilos lighter than Yulia complete she seems to be okay finally want to get that clip done relatively early on hello x of course ruthless cannot to mark a compulsory clip on this occasion could fall for Yulia could clean this to get us underway 14 plus any way for a new layer planar [Applause] so Mundra sandra blackness is me out next real all-rounder from team Austria is the only Austrian competing today six minutes begins for her 14 plus of yulia Kalina the only score on the board so far [Music] hurry to get almond things is Sandra Ladner gonna climb in less than 20 seconds three quick draws Clips already wants to get a move on it's not a particularly steep wall this until quite high up when it suddenly goes horizontal and this time and the pit like and like yesterday's men's route the climbers really do go through the horizontal section they kind of skirted around it yesterday all the men's room this is the section where Yulia complainers attempt and began to come unstuck from what we saw if we complain it's a really good idea to get that quick draw clicks of that position Sandra letter has done our first chance to see the purple ball section [Music] not you couldn't sit it to be many particularly risky moves on this route quite similar think to the men's yesterday lot of resistance but relatively secure positions if you can find them I think one of the defining characteristics through this section is you spend a lot of time squeezing these huge round volumes very hard in the bicep the back the shoulders not so much the forearms it's all body climbing it's not necessarily just pumping move some small holes a small hole it's really hooking these volumes and that's exhausting and it in a different way too many lead routes you can see some dilemma already having to work pretty hard [Music] [Applause] [Music] Magnus slaps that right to that black hole approaching halfway on the route it's even more physical in a couple more moves there's a potential knee bar where some of the climbers might be able to get something resembling a rest you can see that big black volume now sticking down from the horizontal section of the wall you can potentially get your lower leg in between that and the purple volume behind it and create a rest possibly depends on your pain tolerance and how long your leg is because it's not the most comfortable position even if you do find it Sandra let Lily look like she's getting a little bit pumped lower down trying to get something back now your hunting is also the people at the end Sandra taking a long rest you can see 230 year left on the clock quite a lot of ground still to cover there's the shot we want to really see how far she gotta go is not that many moves but all of them are pretty tough okay you would probably need the best part two minutes to get through that section so Sandra's taken the long rest will she even look for the knee bar kind of fits in it definitely helped with our leg was a little bit longer you can see what I mean it's not the most convenient of resting spots now she really launched into the horizontal section on some pretty small holes pretty big move coming up here [Applause] [Music] [Applause] opting to get the clip done earlier on she said I think a pretty good mood there's only two more clips after that before you're at the top now Sundra Letner can get movie and 125 left on the clock we saw yesterday on the men's side that time could be absolutely crucial [Music] [Applause] Sundra letna chooses to lead with the right hand then slap up with the left and comfortably a high point but she's only the second climber out time will tell how good a performance that was it looked pretty solid it required quite a lot of time from the sand roulette but as I said yesterday on the men's side the time was absolutely crucial even that they get it you will do the SEMA vomity goodness you know [Applause] so 38 what's the score for Sundra letna Margot hey that's my route always good to see here on they're on a lead wall primarily a-league climate Margot Hayes didn't have a bad time at all on the boulders oh she was the highest ranked of the climbers with two tops of the Bombers ended up 10 to tox four zones for her speed didn't go great 19th but here she is unarguably her favoured discipline [Applause] she produced she'll need the performance of a lifetime she's going to make the final she could do it she's so good on the lead wall Costa climbers have had observation they were out here it quarter past four local times that's about 40 minutes ago observing the route six minutes to observe it and then 40 seconds Britney's Sammy at the bottom as a Margaux that has just done now she goes Pacific Ocean policy dr. nariyoshi keep an eye on falafels de la Salle's give us specifically Thomas is a toggle clasp like whiskey they're getting involved a musical what let me see where we focus a large American contingent watching on here and if you come a couple of climbers taking part yesterday 3 taking part today quite a large support team of coaches and officials rhythm Team USA they're very well represented relatively choirs at this stage I haven't heard too many shouts Margo doing what she does best up on the lead wall resident of Boulder Colorado it just seems to churn out top climbers and the sole American woman who's booked her place at the Tokyo Olympics so far Brooke Morabito comes from that same town could it be to Olympians from Boulder work to be done for Margo it's going to be 90 ranking points as it stands its 10th from the boulder x 19th from the speeds if you need a very very low number certainly low single figures to really stand the chance of finding your way into that top eight to the final on Sunday petechial hemorrhage you see that people do talk it was he who sits on so that only first the big circular volumes D bother never work from Margo life just a perfect length [Music] she's got three more of these large volumes to negotiate including they want to just left so that's the second to last one now that she's on MC us a crowd for a little bit of noise and gets it they've been much more restrained today the crowd they felt very rowdy yesterday it's quietly watching [Music] I don't really happen to work here this is where we saw Sundra lettner take quite a long rest keep it on the clock as well this route clearly climbing a little bit slower than the route yesterday for the men where while time was a massive issue in terms of rankings but nobody came close to timing out might not be the case today two and a half minutes left for Margaux choosing barely to rest as we stand a letter was there for a good 30 seconds or so [Music] Camargo giving creative finds the kneebar doing it really the reverse way to how you'd imagine you'd imagine you have the neon the black problem in the foot on the purple one doesn't look particularly comfy I'm interested in that's where she's chosen to rest instead of the blue hold I think one of the advantages of this rest is the forearms aren't working very hard so if you are feeling a little bit humble you can let other parts of the body take the weight as you rest as a quick glance the clock says you've got one minute 440 left now [Music] now she will launch into the upper section 38 plus that was just over the lip after the horizontal section where Sandra let no fellows are safe Margot Hayes is to have a a chance at the final she needs an incredible performance on the lead Wally the thought needs to make a really good dent in the head wall woman at 10 left now keep an eye on the clock I think it could could play a role here no beep to indicate this a minute left like there is in holder [Music] I go just about to it pull over the lip you really get a sense of where she is on the route there 45 seconds now man things could get very tight time wise feet cut loose he holds the swing nicely though you said body tension well that's all 37 that she's got a right hand though she just had a half a hand on 38 which is where we lost her Sandra so crosses through to find a new high point that's 39 for Margo 40 47 hold is the top it's going really well which she's going to run out of time 12 seconds now for Margo just east anew every move she possibly can there she goes up with a left hand and takes a big fall but she got everything out of that one Margo Hayes it was a good performance perhaps with hindsight might wish she just set off a little earlier towards the head walkers i think she had a bit of energy left what she didn't have much of what was time [Music] one little thing to bear in mind I don't think it will be relevant but just something to bear in mind is that climbers have to collect all the quick draws and sequence they can't just leave a quick draw behind and do as many moves as he can before they run out of time and Margo had a quick draw down by her knees which the judges and the route setters may conclude that she'd left the last spot from where she could have quit that quicker on which point at which point she stopped scoring but we'll see but if you climb past what is deemed to be the last collectible position for equator you only get scored up until that last equippable point try and get a couple more moves beyond that clippable point get awarded the year the scores I don't think that's relevant just something to mention if she gets a slightly slurred and you know slightly lower score we might initially afford like a looker now doesn't take any of her forty second observation time [Music] young B layer successfully caught got clobbered by yuliya Kappa leaner shout outs of the be legend already been excellent him to lose by soft catches so good reactions when things have happened like you and a crude of pulling a volume off yesterday [Music] so I think Furcal looks gay here the goal is get to cap Lina's high point which is 14 plus not that she knows that prospector when she sees the scores I think you should be pleased if you can get past Kalina that's 12 a couple more moves [Music] gets the clip done that was a clip that's a complainer didn't do before moving on and that's why she took a larger fall than you might have expected this is good stuff from college because she is passed Elia cap Lena so she's not going to finish bottom on the lead and we'll just try now to get his many move as soon as possible the blue balls I just got a full slip unexpectedly the concentration I think lost in being pumped but that's going to put in a third for now obviously behind there Margot Hayes and Sandra Blackman [Music] c'est la merced if you do not disappear that because they specifically it will be el-masri kabhi about next of their wrath [Music] then time stands right now Mario he's leading the way 43 plus taking slightly short arrest and we might go a little bit further but as he has to settle for 43 he was for 38 was a sudden loner Alexandra kombucha in third Julia cope Lena in fourth now say Elmas Riccar be out next sadly for her as a climber whom the day is just slightly disappeared 18 through the speed couple of seconds off her personal best with to Messi runs the two tops fall zones on the folders needed a bit of a bigger result so good to need to pull that's me out of the Hat on the lead route she wants to claim a place in the final [Music] under way six minutes begins [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] this appears to be the first tricky move off this slightly risky move you got to go up to that big round blue dish establish ideally get the clip done in that stage the only inner rate the only Iranian competing here in Toulouse this weekend al-nusra kabhi just the story of having an Iranian in the Olympics would have been great if the Dave gone better but it just feels like it's slightly slipped away from it unless you can pull something truly extraordinary out the back here on the lead walk [Music] [Applause] [Music] a problem so far [Applause] [Music] you're pretty secure so far elmo's but to just perhaps I needs to be conscious of time he said over two minutes elapses already really really just entering the midsection of the route fear that time could be an issue [Music] climber's taking a little bit of a pause here she's doing the same - [Music] the second half of her three minutes out Mars and she falls really she was just entering the grapes she may be fairly disappointed with that one but really it was going to require a miracle performance after however the rest of the day's gone for her to claim a spot in the final reasonably disappointed day for El Masri Carmi anthro the Iranian climbing team she unties working fairly unimpressed with matters [Applause] [Music] the only Canadian climber taking part here in Toulouse a llama Yip will be next out on the wall here she is she was commentating yesterday she's climbing today need to big performance in Elana 12 in the speed and then ninth in the boulders I mean rules are rules but you can count herself a little bit unlucky in the boulders you've got three tops of four zones which was the same as the climber into fourth place when it came down to attempts but as I say that we all know the rules everyone has to Evans playing by the same scoring system but when you get the same number of tops and zones as someone in fourth and you end up night you can perhaps consider yourself slightly hard done by day but a big performance on the lead wall could put her right in the reckoning it's going to be very very tight and she's definitely going to be one of those climbers with her and nervous few hours watching everyone else climb but if she could find her way into the top ten on the lead world would put her in a pretty pretty strong position remember of course no Canadian women qualified the after the Olympics so there are potentially two slots available she's not competing against anyone else as for example the Slovenian army a crumpled and looked caricature both doing pretty well so far today but only one of them can take a place in the Olympics because he a new gardener it's already claimed one of the Slovenian spots no such worries for a Lana yet [Music] remember of course that if things don't go according to plan we still have the continental championships coming up early next year but if Alana doesn't qualify for the Olympics here in Toulouse she may do they're here in the South of France so just to give you some idea forty seven holes of the room she's currently a whole twenty they get on shuttle develop I still know I don't work more than I could now 22 so approaching halfway for a lamb it's pretty burly is section you see that she's had to commit have much choice but to him brief second where I'm sure her heart was in her mouth as she just slapped with the right hand to secure herself on that that huge great volume fighting hard here at Lani events her up on the whole 24 but there is a bit of a rest beckoning she's taking a rest here actually on I'm not a great whole that's an even better one coming up 26 whole 26 28 where Sandra let know took a pretty long rest and it was told 29 30 where this Margo's took a long arrest so there are precious opportunities coming up in just a couple of moves [Applause] [Music] it's tough so far from Atlanta only three minutes elapsed you can see it just think relieved to finally be off that type of section to climbing there's a couple of moves there where she looked she was pretty close to her limit she's choosing to rest on the the lower option [Music] we're beginning to feel it but capable of doing few more moves our suspect I think surely take quite a long time at this rest two and a quarter minutes elbows are out definitely feeling the pumper thing but going really well here Ilana as I say ideally top ten finish on the lead to be in the mix for a place in the final of potentially one of those six Olympic tickets el Master cobby was a whole 23 so Lana's put herself into third out six so far she's chasing down Sundra letting her next Sandra got through the roof and established herself on the but it was about to get established on the head wall when she fell and this for a Lana now is simply a case of fighting and fighting and fighting she's been training in Innsbruck the amazing lead climbing facility there the clutters interim what's a good shape on the boulders says trainees been going well now it's time to find out exactly how well it's been going [Applause] just over a minute left to fight she's just got to give this route everything she's got again looks over his shoulder at the time I think she'll be relatively happy minutes still to go can she get a hand if Sandra Letner she can not I think outputs are in third place I think that'll be a 37 plus we'll let the judges do their thing but that will put a 1 move in my opinion behind [Music] [Music] [Music] unties walks away there's not much more and I can do it must just be horrible to watch everyone come out just can't do anything about it it is a 37 plus for a laner yet third place as it stands right now for a very strongly climate next on the wall in the shape of Lowry Cora [Music] lead and poll the youth world champion tomorrow in 2019 earlier on this year in August choking up and having ready to go [Applause] [Music] [Music] Laura 16th in speed not her favorite discipline and forth on the boulders in a strong position here Laura if she could put in a good performance on the lead wall and he wouldn't fess again so she's be good really well in the lead over the past few years and as I say youth world champion in this discipline World Cup finalists before its senior level really strongly climate and she sets herself up primarily thanks that good results in bouldering for a massive result Erin to lose but it's time to earn it [Music] Oh climbing quickly here our work to be done she'll have seen yesterday the effect time can have Stefano ghisolfi as it ended up he was tied with Alberto Venus Lopez because he both topped the route and they both took exactly the same time however it wouldn't actually mattered whether Stefano finished ahead of out there too or not in terms of whether Stefano made it to the final and the Olympics but she'll have seen that time could be absolutely crucial [Music] [Applause] [Music] is it like a land of this out quick moment we've just got to let go and slap that volume with the right hand these races reasonably secure the secondly a moment heart in the mouth [Music] looking like she's fighting already squirming away up really needs a massive result a louder than it's no exaggeration to say there could be an Olympic place on the line here she did the job in Boulder and she follow it up in lead such a powerful move any time you've got your hand facing away from you and above your head like that shoulder just feels like it's got no strength but he had enough to keep her on there got bags of endurance those long reach she moves like that cause her problem she's one of the shorter climbers in the comet issue [Music] that's half way hold 25 that's that one there Thank You Larry yeah that's half way [Music] couple more moves one more move in fact that you'll get to that big blue home where quietly the climbers have rested [Applause] looks like she's really got a fight on our hands here Lauer it looks more tired than you might expect from elite climbers accomplishes here at this stage grimaces [Music] no one must be profuse I [Music] yes just take a long rest 150 left I think be a few climbers pretty pushed for time you saw Margo Hayes more or less run out of time just as she ran out of energy I think she's not going to be the only one didn't choose to pause belong there Lauer just get stuck straight into things I just don't think the leg is long enough to even attempt the knee bar now you can see there just isn't going to work for it goes confidently out towards the edge of the roof a head wall and the change of angle beckons a couple more moves [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] so Lauer Agoura battling with everything she's got now if she can latch the next move she will move ahead of Atlanta yep there it is if she could do the next one to move ahead of Sandra Letner and then who knows from there Margot hey he's still leading the way on 43 plus got a few more moves before she gets there she's looking really tired Lauer Agoura but she's fighting and fighting and she's at least on to slightly lower angle terrain you could see from the look on her face is how much effort is going into this but this could be the lead for Lauer Agora that's hold 43 going up towards 44 that is a lead for Lera she'll move into first place she will not have time to top the roux almost certainly not Oh will she here she goes Lera just misses it fantastic performance she had both hands on the top holes and she will move into first place I didn't think she had time to attempt that move but suddenly she just scurried up from there up to the tiny trim got herself set and without a second cezzah tation launch for the top and wasn't far off latching it into first place Laur Agora went well in the boulder and now can only wait [Music] strong performance in Lowrey Gauri's she looked tired from a dozen moves out but she just would not give up battle their way onto a 45 + 46 and 47 which you have to get almost simultaneously are the top holes yeah I think maybe just in quiet and a timing right there she just had 10 more seconds to maybe could have set at the top move to takes a provisional first place so if Jenny a cosmic over is climbing next we'll see what sort of shape she's in when she gets to the foot of the wall the left knee that when let's see how she's walking yeah it doesn't look too happy with that left knee but we'll see they need to do something truly miraculous if she's going to take a place in the final here's 17th in the speed 11 through the bowler ordinary effort to get an 11th in the boulder given the fact she injured her knee on the very first Boulder but we shall see cats because if she could claim a place in the final after what happened on Boulder 1 it would beat you could comfortably the most harrowing story to emerge him to lose at the hospital even the looks of people see the ability to watch that let me really closely seeing if there's any signs of her not favoring it I think it'll get a little bit more of a workout on the heel looks higher up [Applause] she been persecuted [Applause] I [Music] [Music] [Music] soups established on the big round purple volumes [Music] Kenny a cosmic ogre is it really strongly climate yes me troubles aside he's going really well [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] to find the big results what a story it would be let's not get carried away take your long rest as I say yeah relatively long rest for where she is on the route of Kenya remember there's a pretty good rest coming up on the very next hole that blew off pretty steep terrain it perhaps is to come across on camera steeper than it looks as a whole the wall here in Toulouse is not particularly steep just have this one horizontal section I think she's suddenly yeah clocked that so this is quite a good resting place got to kind of move around to get your arms straight get your arms straight really helps get rid of some of the fatigue chooses not to pause for long at all two and a half minutes left on the clock she's leaving that rest position with a lot more time in hand the many climbers have done will it come in handy later on we shall see [Applause] [Music] [Applause] she used to take a rest on the horizontal section room seen many people really pausing here presumably we can't quite see I was about so presumably she's got the me bar in and she does to use it plenty of time left I'm not an issue here very of Kenya Kazbek over what's that need got no she's gonna need it to heal hook here it's used to cut loose unexpectedly a beautiful it tough to stay on [Music] remaining oh and she went out towards the lip and was it the net was it that the foot that gave way you can see her instantly holding the left knee again yes he was really relying on that heel hook I'm not saying that was what failed but let's see if we can have another look watch in slow motion keep an eye on that left knee you know the heel did pop was it because it wasn't the strengthen the knee or would it have popped anyway we'll never know but so concludes a disappointing day for Evgeny ik as Bukoba I think she really had a shot here but couldn't give her all on the bowl that still got two tops we couldn't give it all either on the lead really cook gave a pretty good showing all things considered [Applause] c'mere [Music] so every season Siri how you now next interesting to see here on a lien wall the world record holder in the speed five weeks old that world record now six point nine nine five first and only woman two different at the seven second mark [Music] she's the only climate in the boulder not to register a zone or a top on the lead wall I think realistically her target is probably yulia cap leaner at 14 plus and then possibly alexandra in toluca at 19 they are the two specialist speed climbers we've seen so far [Music] the only Indonesian in competing amongst the women in Toulouse we had Alfie and Mohammed yesterday chooses not to click but instead chooses to push on from services just missed with the right hand did well to salvage their Falls just shy of where Yulia completely gone to so Aries discern through her 22nd in the polder may well end up being 22nd in the leaders well really I think for all five climbers for whom speed is the strongest discipline they were all gunning for that number one on the speed war that is Yulia Kaplan who got it from then on out it looked a pretty tough challenge for all of them that ceressus answer hey of healing song and Joubert and Alexandra kombucha his life was always going to be difficult for them when they didn't finish first on the speed walk nine for area Centegra hey Mishima Shura is she next out on the wall [Music] realistically going to be pretty tough for a Shiva to to do much unless you can find first maybe second on the lead wall what's a tough ask mathematically it's certainly not over she's currently on two five two ranking points 21st in a speed twelve the boulders [Music] [Applause] [Music] Sabino [Music] the Heco's ashame rhodium in lead [Music] well that laser capture here receiver everyone is when did you the speed doesn't go well didn't go well for her ended up 21st remember of course gravity already confirmed for the USA Olympic team there's only one slot available for the American women assume an approach walk and say look I'm a limited pool of Omar when a bluejay in a place but the union of our biggest [Music] 12 if you family are honored the boulder for Ashima she never made a World Cup final in Boulder as in lead to fourth place finishes podium as well [Music] but she needs something absolutely spectacular here doubly so because all the Margaux haze before so well so got Kyra company to come it's going to be so tight look at the rankings it's going to be so tight between the three Americans if Ashima puts in a good performance here let alone between everyone else join Brooks in any of them join Brooke [Applause] [Music] [Music] she was born of Japanese parents but growing up in the United States and climbing for the United States might slightly miscalculated this one thing is able to correct the mistake yes she is tough positions to hang on to to squeeze in that big volume takes the energy out of being quite a strange way you don't really get pumped just much suddenly feel like you needed a lot more air than you can get into your lungs regains her composure like a slightly awkward couple of moveset around that first big grape right again high in the mouth and the moment moving on to hole 25 [Applause] [Music] [Music] quite a long arrest achievement is it a good rest coming up in there what moves time I think she'll be too short to use the knee bar so if she is going to take a rest anytime in the near future should be advised to take on on the blue hole that's coming up all right where she is she looks really comfortable [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] choosing not to rest on that blue holder whether she might go back to it now chooses to push on through looked a tiny bit awkward on quite a few of the moves around these purple values Shima took arrested on that whole twenty five that white holds actually quite difficult to spot through our cameras hasn't really rested since one minute twenty left on the clock I just as she launched into the roof she fell that's not going to be enough for regime but she's come to Toulouse looking for an Olympics lot and after twenty first in the speed and then twelfth in the boulder she needed something very special on the lead sadly her she didn't quite get it and let's have another look marching out in towards hole 34 huh the majority decision purposes Navaho Chile's on silica Victor but the very much salsa dealings on ha ha [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so she she is done here in Toulouse that's not going to be enough for her shots at Olympic qualification is now dependent on no other American woman qualified from here in Toulouse and then her winning the continent at the pan-american continental championships early next year last week the last week of February solsa next climber on the wall nine in the speed but then 16th in the boulder considered strong as discipline after ninth and the speed she put herself in a good position but she didn't quite follow it up on the boulder wall currently on 144 ranking points again like a she never needs incredible performance here on the lead wall to salvage her trip to Toulouse the digits again specifically us we see that [Music] [Music] anomalies occur on the road carefully people so safer to hold on the 12 got the clicked on that porcelain troposphere yuliya cap lenient earlier on so such that you know salsa is the 11th climber than 22 competing so we're halfway through its then healing song out next and that McGill maricon diva tar bonito mere crumpet I'm Oreo Julius channel DJ became Fanny G bear song Jack and much Careca from here to battalion [Music] yeah yeah [Music] [Music] the other busy people and what this is about so the biblical one is a showcase for several living she it's also clear stablished on the greatest-looking a little bit pumps already a bit like Ashima just finding it a little bit awkward getting established and one or two of these big round purple volumes you don't set on the thumbnail painted a smiley face on a right thumbnail details [Music] [Music] missile missile [Music] it's a soul sucker put moves now below the rest [Applause] got herself a little bit bunched up so she's having to work that left shoulder quite hard I think again one of them probably is it quite long enough legs to to get the knee back arrived here with plenty of time as you can see 225 left for her I don't think the kneebar would work for that she's well advised to stop here [Applause] you sada just trying to see from my angle but I can't quite tell it because she has gotten it now she got the knee bar in maybe she has got to long enough legs for it to work [Music] [Applause] shaking out salsa woman it busy left on the clock for her [Applause] [Music] [Music] usual place to take a rest right up people steepest part the road can you shake you out repeatedly on the steepest section salsa goes back thinks again I think really could do is getting that clip done before too long you don't want to do it when it's right in front of your chest as you pull onto the headwall salsa with five minutes and 15 elapsed slack to head up onto the head wall but distinct part of the energy she was stopped for a long time at the very steepest section of the route trying to get some energy back wasn't quite able to do that so salsa she makes a wealth stage xi climb roses say we're now halfway through our runners and things are about to get very nerve-racking quite a few climbers I suspect a new job a route next for third in the speed and an 18th and the boulder she's made life pretty difficult for herself by not getting that the first stuff maybe second place that she needed in the speed and a job Ansel got a lot of work today same is true for her though things didn't go according to plan on the speed remit she got second not too bad but as a speed specialist here all fighting of that first place of work and she's just xx under boulders so see what you can do on the lead wall ladies effect is more crucial for the moon on television in our software [Music] think Astrid the boulders imagine it's likely to be a battle for the bottom five places the order of the Boston fireplaces amongst the five speed climbers for healing song is one and a bit like fellow speed climber Elia Copeland it might be well advised to do that clip early on short back it might be well advised to get the clip to an earlier on by the way you can see some quite serious strapping on her left shoulder soon as she came down off the boulder she was getting that ice and she was getting quite a lot of attention from the physio so carrying from some sort of injury we'll see exactly how bad it is she's just done two fairly intense moves for the shoulder [Music] I threw everything into that move from the right hand she falls somewhere around the hold 20 mark August rather complicated for the judges then amongst all that sadly play yiling song hey that's not enough but second on the speed as I say ACOTA kind of keeps her in the hunt makes its appeal as a helper untie 12 climbers now gone tend to go and it will be apologies I misread my starts a new job air out next [Music] [Music] taking tape of people to get back not subtle we'll see whether leaves her healing songs is that actually moves ahead of you Likud leader as I said but he not ahead of Alexandra collage guess so puts her into tent for now score of 18 so she's going to finish at worst 20th which would mean 20th of the boulder 20th in the lead 400 x to the speed 800 points I suspect that's not enough but not disastrous you're under a thousand you might mean with the snip anyway I knew Joe bear out next legend of the game went well on the bowl has got all four zones but couldn't convert any of them into a top as it turned out I she the way the scores went it wouldn't have made a huge difference to a nuke if she had found the tops you're going to moved up that merchant Lee top at once to speak lines [Music] but we feel a singer by Sony French crowd particularly a bunch of school kids off to my right making awful lot of noise for a McGill bet we've cut away I thought Anna quite forward there no none soul needs to as we learn Familia Kathleen to get the clip done here if it's all possible looking pumped already a MOOC Joubert and just now needs to fight on through as many moves as possible I mean if she could get ahead of a couple of the speed climber something in Alexandra can look here if she could get to hold 20 it really would be a good result there's quite a lot of climbing to go before she gets to that stage slaps up with the right hand towards hole 16 and I think that will leave Alex Joubert third from bottom and therefore yiling song who as I say you could have ended up 20th will now end up 19th that was there's gonna be touching oh you know feeling song very close to the Ealing song a new job and meanwhile I think will likely and 20th [Music] in the lead yeah it was a 16 for annex oh man so all of the speed climbing with specialists have gone now Alexander Carlos go did the best of them then healing song and Alex over the newly completed arias anterior hey Kyra coming now now this is wanted to overdramatize I don't think it's exaggerated to say there's got to be the biggest moment in Carrick on this competition climbing career couldn't really have gone much better in the speed through sixth fastest of the non-specialists there in the boulder tienda de bathes got three tops and four zones temps just bumped it down the order of him but still six and speed eighth involve it to good result and well fantastic result in speed no good result in Boulder really needs a big performance here Kyra Conley remember I've said it a couple of sighs Brooke Roberts who's already qualified there's only one slot left for the American women so if Kyra Conde could claim it Oh Margo Hayes it would mean that come the pan-american championships in February the winner of which will go to the Olympics there wouldn't be a slot length of the Americans so that would change things for a Lana year fifty was relying on that for qualification it would change things potentially for South American athletes because no American would progress from the women's side to the Olympics from the pan-american championship next February it could all be done and dusted amongst the American women if Kerry Connelly can find a strong performance here in Toulouse they could already have claimed their two Olympics Lots by the time the pan-american championship gets underway remember they also got a man to qualified in Nathaniel Coleman yesterday so it's already been a good trip to France for Team USA it could be an absolutely spectacular trip if they also get Kyra condi through and this is what it all comes down to poor Alfred is left for care economy went with the left hand then chooses to go with the right and so she's got that real snappy fast climbing stock our economy and it's serving her well so far here on this lead room the tension really ratcheted up she's a climber with a lot riding on this she's not a specialist lead climber but most people would agree that Bolton is the strongest discipline but speed went amazing well Boulder went pretty well and he's to get everything she can out of the lead route and I think their tactic from what we're seeing so far it's just climb as fast as you can get as many moves done as possible but will do she might got herself slightly and tied up here in Chiron probably do you think with the right hand where the left is yet Nash now she's gonna have to try and manufacture a hand swap will she give up for the high-risk option that one of just moving the left hand out the way to make space for the right now she's got a bit of a rest here [Applause] tell she's definitely getting pumped grimace on her face and snappy climbing style at all times but it seems even faster than normal it's got here really quickly though she's certainly not gonna get timed out just over three minutes remaining [Music] elbows out Kyra Condit getting pumped now surviving move by move but she's pushing on and she's now heading into the roof every move could be absolutely crucial for her ranking and therefore for her potential participation in the final and next August the Olympics in Tokyo choosing to collect before launching into the headwall this is great stuff from Kyra Conde fighting with everything she's got taking every opportunity to shake out the 14th climber on the wall only eight to come after her scrapping away up towards hole 35 she's gonna be somewhere around 6 at this stage every move she can do after this you would imagine it's a bonus we've been really tired just need to keep up fight and there was so much riding on this the Kyra combi can she get off the headwall that's all 36 laps up to 137 and he's going to be 36 plus for her the same score a salsa and it will come down to time brilliant fight from Kyra Conde what an hour she has ahead ever watching the remaining eight climbers she could have booked her ticket to the final she could have booked a ticket to the Olympics depending on who else progresses remember that Japan have already filled their Olympic quota so who were there climbers make it into the final eight for Sunday's final it will mean that every non Japanese climber will have a place in the final again with a couple of providers predictor if Kyra makes a final date and there were two Japanese climbers there and that will be enough for her to get an invite to the Olympic Games so and I think you saw as she walked up the stage you couldn't given it much more left everything on the wall and now she can only wait as Futaba ito makes her way out onto the stage wall for powers point of view she'll be charged cheering Futaba ito on two Japanese climbers to finish as high as possible it's Harbor fantastically strong all-rounder seventh of the speed seventh in Boulder how's that food consistency if she could back that up with seventh in the lead she'd be home and hose to a place in the final [Music] we [Music] the come on but what about watching a in the difference of legibility department the windy appearance of in fantasy bare silicon is afonya but as you build so Futaba without question the most consistent performer today 7/7 suddenly after the CARICOM is just smashing her way through the last few moves arena once again peaceful [Music] tarah world champion itself from the youth World Championships in Innsbruck in 2017 and whilst Japan has already filled its Olympic quota for to 2020 2024 Olympics in Paris Louis I if climbing gets so much we have obviously hope it does keep a close eye on Futaba ito stopping four years experience in training of their belts [Music] is typically [Music] [Applause] laughs you just said well Tarver now around halfway that's 25 that white hold there by the way if you will not be in the blue crosses are in the whole hopefully when we see if another angular you'll see on all the holes our little marker pen marks see that blue cross right at the top of the white volume those are made by the route setter so they preset these routes in the weeks leading up to Toulouse and then they mark on the wall and the holes where the holes goes when they put them back on the wall it all lines up so you'll see this er marking on the hole itself and the marking on the wall it's so the root surface can stick the holes back on and put them exactly where they lesson when they preset the route just in unlikely event that you were sitting at home wondering what the marking pen mark Adam post L met you vastly experienced chief route setter is chief setter here in Toulouse just as it was in Hachioji for the lead it's our petechiae nice long break again climb quickly up until this point plenty of time on the clock [Applause] see just what she's hanging on to on the corner of that volume drifting out right commits by a big move out towards hole 35 choosing to go feet first we haven't seen that method work of that see she kind of pale out of it sue she tried it flexibility coming in handy their feet are burritos on herself in a very unlikely looking position so we've just seen Kyra calmly put up an amazing fight remember her rank is obviously affected by Evan L so it Futaba progresses pasture which she now has that pumps tired out of place pitama suddenly looking very tired we saw a big grimace ferocious Lang's up towards home 38 and she will progress no further 38 Plus will almost certainly be the score for Futaba ito seems to get pretty tired as she entered the roof and it only got worse as time went by see the big gorilla so we just said the right camera angle fortunately for that and the right moment you can see her elbows right out horizontally sign of being very very pumped and slapped up towards 39 could not stay there me a crumpled next now this is a big moment me a crumpled xx in the speed got a lot of words to do on a speed climb if she does make it to the Olympics xx and the speed but then third on the boulder she talks all form remember that Jana gamba is already claimed one of these slovenian that sloths so her looked karate could not both go to the olympics one of them can most karate may even be mathematically someone might tell me if they've got a calculator right type of range of that sort of thing if they've got a calculator might tell me this looks Karaka which is already guaranteed her place in Sunday's final if she's not guaranteed it's pretty close basically need to not be last me a crumpled it's got a little more work to do but still pretty good for a place in the final [Music] the chief medical disability facility Aveda block job of chief is over let's go quickly headaches PC Ostia once again a lot of tension in the arena and Slovenian the women battling it out for one Olympics Laughton Galbraith blamed GOG in August she wasn't that combine competition to bear in mind is at me a crumpled under a kovitch and the two Japanese climbers progressed to the final on Sunday that would mean the person who finishes ninth here today with potentially given Olympics lot so there's so many permutations trampled hasn't really given them much thought at all she could do is climb as well as possible and see where it gets her we know she's got plenty of fight me example we found a way onto the podium in the Munich World Cup really injured her knee it seemed quite severely on the very first bowler and basically refused to be denied she's going to need a bit of that attitude here in Toulouse [Music] my select one [Music] [Music] oh shoot if you struggling to get a foot back on this good angle Ashley you get a bit of an inkling exactly how steep it is here [Applause] [Music] the whole 25 climbing quickly three and a half minutes still left on the clock [Music] second place in the lead world championships in Hachioji back in August that same Championships where young you're gone brett booked her place at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics going to need as I say all that pedigree it's got to be not only compresses but Eric and Patriot look Erakovic this weekend in Toulouse the European League championship got plenty of caliber to really is going to be a pretty tight battle between the two Slovenians [Music] [Music] mere pausing on the steepest section of the roof seen a couple of climbers doing that she's not the most comfortable of them [Applause] to finish pulls onto the head wall it's going to completely if the group hit me up this is a really strong performance Mir and it needs to be well keep an eye on the clock because if they are tied on time any climbers it will come down to time forty five-plus from Lauer Agora as it stands is the best score 45 + basically means going for the top move but not sticking it now getting tired me a cramp oh haha just about latch toll 44 desperate times now and it could count for so much it could be a place in the Olympics riding on this keep an eye on the clock he can die on me at cranville as she goes to the top with 4 minutes 44 elapsed how does that compare to Lauer Agora we'll see in a second when the scores come up so she got 245 surely the judges will say that it's a 45 plus and she definitely moved towards the next holes did slip as she went will they give you 45 + I'm sure they will in which case it will come down to time [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so me a crumpled we wait her score 45 or 45 + - 45 so she moves into second time becomes irrelevant my first instinct was that she had probably secured a 45 + really headed towards a top hole but when you watch it back on the replay foot did slip as she went the judges have given her a 45 tension continues to ratchet up it I'm Maury now makes her way onto the wall [Music] I'm Maury mind-blowing endurance performance in Hachioji earlier on this year because she do here in Toulouse remember there's no Olympic slot available for Team Japan they've already filled their quota I Maurice had a well I can't get any worse than herself Saturday 20 seconds and lasted speed but then made amends in a big way with second in Boulder top to all four boulders if she could get a good result here in lead she would make her way into the final albeit wouldn't count for an Olympics lot [Music] because of the tables interpolators here at you sit [Music] what are those [Music] because I can experience a national company the company's website review c2 I'm Maury as I see couldn't have gone any worse at start couldn't have gone that much better on the boulders put itself in an incredibly strong position to claim a place in the final remember if her and Futaba pressed to the final weight as it stands is looking recently likely than it would mean that it potentially everyone else in that final new slot [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] choosing an unusual rest position [Music] podiums already this year I'm re to in lead and one in Boulder say attention although the mathematics will be affected from I Maurice resolve the tension and ever so slightly lessened emphasis slightly because Japanese can I take any more miles to the Olympics she's not gunning for a spot Hill limits remember call Soho result does affect their ranking of everyone else is so plenty of tension Victor she's not one of those climbers who's got everything on the line here and he's betting the farm on performance on the lead wall Wow [Music] my Mari 2:10 left for her how about to get stuck into the roof she has got the most incredible endurance [Music] little grimace on her face hurts about as close as you ever see to it looking tired on a leave [Music] [Applause] let's see what I'm re can do remember we've got a climber on forty five-plus Mia crumpled on 45 surprised me that much if we saw an appeal from the Slovenian team about whether that should be a 45 plus because it would move her ahead of Lao rigueur on the rankings I think yet on time but for now as it stands its Lauer Agora pulse buddy wants me a crumble of 45 Markham hey still hanging on there forty three plus wall and their big moment to my Mori went up and had to come back down doesn't look that comfortable on this room I'm re really fighting it'd be a big surprise if she couldn't progress firm this is such a goodly climb a World Championship bronze medalist world cup bronze medalist as well this year I'm she's having to scrap for every movie not looking comfortable at all that incredible endurance for which she's known is coming in pretty handy though she gets herself established on the head wall finds her way up through those jewel takes two volumes couldn't be silly the most unlikely of tops in the climber who looked incredibly tired a couple of moves ago I'm re she did it in the World Championship can she do it again here in the Olympic selection event in Toulouse she's got hold 45:44 scuse me this is 45 coming up lining it up are we about to see the first stop of the night I'm re lining it up and watching it she's going to go into first place with only five fibers to go I'm Mari Tubbs the move with only four seconds remaining she'll move into first and that affects everyone's ranking below her it almost certainly books are a place it does book her a place in fact in Sunday's final but there are other things at stake not just places in the final so four seconds to spare that might be crucial if we see another top of the way four seconds to spare i mori finds atop she look like she got herself in all sorts of troubles because she pulled it out of the bag [Applause] makes her way off the stage she does it every time that endurance guys just mind-blowing so now to leash a note he connects climb around and she could book her place in the final as well their 10th on the speed sickly the ball a good consistent scoring I think anything with single figures here single figures finish top 10 would probably be enough for Julia shallowly you know they get too carried away with making predict these are still for climbers to go after Herbert and yes top 10 finish might be enough mastic here in Toulouse II just tuning in charlie Bosco here live from the South of France the Olympic selection event these climbers are gunning for a place in Sunday's final but they're also gunning for one of six slots in the Olympics and because of country quotas it might not just be the top six from Sunday's fine and we might confirm who those six Olympic invites will be going to here in the next half an hour [Music] [Music] [Music] Olivia Olivia Cassie City Map Reduce it [Music] do they no problem so fast as you'd expect the climber vet caliber [Applause] [Music] Sol IRC podium in lead just one podium still but she was consistently making boulder finals this year had a really good 2019 that's culminated here in Toulouse this will be the last action of that season and it could count the so much there are still two slots available for French women if they can claim them they haven't claimed any so far in the Olympic selection pathway [Music] Oh [Applause] now getting right behind Julius channel D it's such a big moment though you sometimes find that people just go quiet at these times rather than yelling it on and for every move that just sitting there staring that's what's happening right now in Toulouse the boo boo sailors and drums of yesterday are not present now a few crowd cries emerge in the crowd [Music] [Applause] Society secret abilities [Music] it was so Julia shinobi took your long rest underneath the roof [Applause] [Music] [Applause] Shanno they could be climbing away to the Olympics here it doesn't get much bigger than the next two and a half minutes for this French climber she is a bona fide all-rounder things have gone pretty well for us so far today 10th in the speed sick from the boulder what can she do in the lead she looks pretty composed quick puffs of the cheeks she's such a high-caliber lead climber you'd expect a big performance if she could find the top I think she'd have booked her place but there's an awful lot of moves to be done before she does that just taking a little mini shake of the hand at every opportunity now Julia's channel do you only four climbers still to come after her including Jane Kim and Lux Karaka both of whom can make some real dent on this lead wall like a few climbers pausing under the roof because it's a good hole it's just a little uncomfortable position 145 left looks like she's got a timing absolutely perfect she's got time to do these last moves this is the case of energy reading the root rise as well [Applause] [Music] now makes her way onto the head wall every move now being greeted with cheers to sent the French trout have gone quiet they're not quiet now we'll pull onto the head wall as a big move up to the left to hold 39 and now on to 40 suddenly looking very tired Julia Chenery jumps up hold 40 yeah will almost certainly get a 40 plus by the way speaking of Plus is MIA crumpled spin moves up to a 45 Plus and moves ahead of Lowry gore into second place for the lead I was speculating that might happen and so it's proved Julia shallow d meanwhile I think it's going to get a 40 plus that'll put her into fifth place for now four climbers remaining yeah let's see she can join what must now be an army of climbers down the front watching nervously there's virtually nobody did almost guaranteed their place in the final right now I'm Marie one of the few but she's not gunning for a spot in the Olympics and me a crumpled one of them I suppose as well and probably our Agora but that's about it [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] Oh [Music] responsibilities to meet Rosa listen [Music] so Jane Kim winner of the most recently World Cup winner 29 lead world cups and a boulder World Cup for good measure the most successful statistically the most successful work of climate in the history of the IFS sea lovely calm smooth style I would imagine get their timing pretty much spot-on she generally does times it normally to perfection and if she tops the route I suspect it won't be with much time to spare I'm re topped with four seconds left [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] so Jane Kim keeping things steady beep frankly an enormous surprise of she was to run into any trouble here just keeps on going Jane Kim she's been at it for so long world champion 30 time world cup winner it's just been a breathtaking career and it certainly is not over yet [Music] totally by the way of 61 World Cup medals per season gold [Music] so while species like film us secretly [Music] just had to cut loose set she had it all in control as ever keep it on the time by the way I never ever to suggest that he said Jane Kim might have got it wrong but it looks to me like she might just be slightly behind where she needs to be whole 20 years 21 that's all 21 that job text view volume there just to the left of that was 47 holes on the route pretty much half way left herself much the time for a rest if she finds one or once what of it later on [Music] and I've seen a sample that big he'll show you what is you that's now for time remaining now Jane Kim she she is past halfway as I say she normally gets her timing in the decadence of a climbing absolutely spot-on she done it here [Music] static or a live cable shaking out she's at the good rest two minutes to go I don't think Jane Kim's got time for a big long rest here she feels she has either she gets moving now [Music] just to give you some idea where she's at Jane Kim this is a round where Ashima fell and that was enough for 12 so Jane Kim after 14th in the speed and then 15 in the boulder is basically relying on giving a very small number on lead so she's gonna need to be either at the top or very very close to it you suspect [Music] check the time again over a left shoulder 1:10 left I think she's got the timing pretty much spot-on but you can see there's quite a lot of moves still to do it's going to be tight remember I'm Horry topped with 4 seconds remaining [Music] less than a minute now for Jane Kim I think she's may well just chalk up once more maybe and then just get motoring you have to go for this move here faulty ii is now getting pretty tight [Applause] she might just get get moving from here on out looks firmly in control but what she doesn't control is the clock and it is ticking away 24 seconds to go now still another quick drill to clip before the top and remember she's got a top flip the top quick-draw before it is an official top I think she could be really tired jank him 10 seconds to go no exaggeration to say her Olympic place is in danger it certainly is now as she falls ups up on the way up to hold 44 would be a 43 plus for her I think she was slower than Margo Hayes which means she'll go into fifth place and I don't think that's going to be enough but Jane came especially because she could get bumped further down from fish I think should be cited frustrating when she watches that one back everything was going fine everything was nicely smooth as it always is for Jane Kim but she just seemed to slow down and she was already pretty type of time but she left the rest with two minutes to go went through the roof and 'once at the head wall and just get moving and yeah it goes into four for now joint fourth with Margo Hayes and I think that's subject at the time being checked actually Margo is pretty short on time so it will be tight she might move up into fourth Jane Kim but either way I don't think she's done enough there by the same token she's not definitely not done enough so she will be another nervous climber watching are really tense in Toulouse that's how they stand right now let's go a kovitch and I'm Mori can be pretty confident that they will be a king in the final as will me a crumpled probably Lauer Agora as well beyond that it really will get tight [Music] fanni G bear now 13th in the speed so not great but not a disaster and then fifth on the boulders pretty good she might have hope ever so slightly more but fifth still a pretty good result what can she do now in the lead finishes in lead World Cups down the years podiums in Boulder every bit of that experience and skilled out [Music] [Applause] [Music] again French quiet crowd quiet as she makes her way through the lower section I suspect like Julia's channel D they won't be very quiet if she makes it through to the upper section [Music] [Applause] [Music] drops down on slap Balu hold climbing pretty quickly here family geebeare minute also quicker than Jane Kim to get to this stage [Music] [Applause] [Music] no party [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so just about everything riding on this now for fantasy bears it's a 65 ranking points coming off the first two events 13th and speed 10.10 for on the speed one and three tops and four zones gave her fifth in the boulder who comes as a witness significant [Music] [Applause] [Music] taking the big blue ball [Music] [Applause] [Music] moving straight through heading now for the roof crowd coming to life is so tensed country quotas kicking is one person's rank affecting everyone else's [Music] [Applause] [Music] it's funny G back again repeatedly shaking out almost every move now still looks likes got a little bit left personally the elbows around the pump really kicking in how many moves can she get [Applause] to go feet first almost coming out of the roof an easy bet elbows are really out now and who slaps up with the left hand towards old 38 chose not to go towards 37 looks rather emotional fan easy bear she's not the only one let's have another look [Music] hey funny [Applause] fanni she-bear waves to the crowd so much emotion I'm just trying to figure out where that will leave Fanny G bear and not what that then means as it stands in the overall standings she is down in Nice that was 11th for now in the lead bear in mind actually that that number could only get worse for Fanny G bear Yu Tong Jiang and logic Iraq a still to come so she could end up 13th in the lead so she will only go down the order and I think that might be the end of that family belt let's not concentrate too much on that though because you Tong Jiang has just made her way out there she is just going through a 40-second individual observation period [Music] remembering the amazing shamily World Cup earlier on this year plastic oblong of Shama knee in mid-july she was second there to shine sir she's been a real threat in the lead all year [Music] big five and a half minutes remaining for you songyang to do something special here xin have the best time so far 11th in the speed and disappointing 217 in the folder but she could get a top 3 finish maybe top 4 which is certainly not out the question could be enough it feels like there's so many permutations I'm trying to stay across and by the same token you've just got to enjoy the action and the drama as it unfolds still only I mori with the top there's only going to be a maximum of three tops if you Tom Jack and logic Arakawa could find the top will be three tops but as it is still only I'm Ari Jane Kim and Margot Hayes still having their times looked at still showing up as joint for say we're on 43 plus Lauer Agora and me a crumble both went for the top move but didn't stick it in a 45 plus separated on time a new song Jang now an ultimate climber looked Careca votes still to come after her I'm just looking by the way it's make it a little more sense now Fanny's geebeare looking for any emotion when she came down I think she realized that probably wasn't going to be enough and looking at the rankings as the update I think I'm inclined to agree with it remember there is to the Olympics for climbers by the continental championships there are five continents and championships in February and March next year but this is a arguably the biggest opportunity you've got to win those continental championships to progress good coming second so this is most climbers best chance [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so three minutes left speed about right for you Tong ting remember I'm already topped with four seconds remaining if it was to come to that it's been having such a strong season in the lead using Jack three finals and a podium certainly not out the question that she could find the top she's at the year the rest now 240 left for her the voice of International [Music] [Music] EMA Osaka Riku and alcohol through Superdome just so you know just disappeared for a minute they're just talking to one of the I foresee officials were three climbers tired of 36 plus Kyra calmly Fanny G bear and salsa currently with Carrick on the 10th fantasy bear xi assaults are 12th at I there may be some checking of that result going on just a double check but that is the right order father than me they are separated by time and and in the correct order so something to keep it up one more thing to keep an eye on [Music] feels at the conclusion of these combined competitions you can have an army of people doing the stats and you still miss things you songyang now launch it for the head wall and not quite getting there that's a big shock actually and just to make life a little trickier for the officials I think she's about to be the fourth climber on 36 plus and we was just discussing song Chiang doesn't look particularly happy with that and I don't think she'd be very happy with how things have gone in general here in Toulouse that's not going to be enough for her to make the final she yes they'd been awarded a 36 actually so that will be for the judges provide if there were no appeals and this is how it looks right now so remember one person's rank affects everyone else's one of the problems are not the problems what are the complications the scoring system is it till the last climb is done we don't really know what anyone's rank is going to be an it is Luca rock of it coming out last she is the reigning European that lead champion she's absolutely capable of top in this room but is her lead fitness and where it needs to be right here right now will she read the route correctly but should get a timing right so let's go a kovitch the last climber of the 22 gets us underway spare a fort if you will for the climbers just at the bottom right down by the speed wall as we look at things bottom right of the venue who are looking on with potential Olympic participation riding on what happens here with littke wreckage [Music] [Music] five minutes from now a lot will be resolved remember of course we're just to make life complicated we have got judges looking at timing this between the three climbers tie between 10 and 12 we've got Marco Hayes and Jane Kim's still seemingly not separated by time they may be tied as we have ESO Stefano ghisolfi and Alberto he knows Lopez but they may just be separated the judges will need to take a closer look let's go a kvetch meanwhile has had a long time in the isolation doesn't mind wander does she begins to think about permutations and possibilities she been able to keep her head where it needs to be which is focused on doing as well as she can on this route no problem is so far and is also climbing at a good pace so remember I'm Ari top with four seconds to spare if she could find the top any quicker than that she'd claim first place could have an interesting situation shortly by the way because if both Japanese climbers and both Slovenian climbers progressed to the final it would mean every non Japanese and everyone on the Slovenian climate in the final plus a person in ninth today was going to get an Olympic invite but it would mean the lunch karakov itch and me a cramp all would not be guaranteed anything they have to have to battle it out in the final for that one Olympics lot that is left for the Slovenian women so there'd be some people celebrating and there'd be them think you've got to come back on Sunday and it really counts so could be reasonably tense [Music] [Applause] so let's go ahead choosing not to take much of a rest on the good blue hold I wouldn't be at all surprised if she took note yesterday he went Stefano and Alberto he knows Lopez were both tied for time I think she'll be well aware that if in doubt climb a little bit quicker would not be a bad policy because time is much more important here than it normally is at the lead climbing competition and she's definitely going good pace here looks Karaka it's 2:20 left on the clock now she stops again quite an unusual place to stop you could see she's got the knee bar in but still right-handed wasn't on very much at all looking calm and collected her lunch Karaka which I think she might have timed this one pretty well [Music] all once again silent Juliano d as it stands is in fifth place I think Julius Channel he's done enough regardless of what lunch Karaka vetch does here there aren't many people who fall into that category right now [Music] 1:20 left on the clock what lukacovic doesn't know is that she could do with getting a move on because if she could find the top if she could find the top the quicker the better [Music] she's looking so solid here these are hard moves but Luke's Karaka which the European lead champion is making light work of them right now she needs to keep this up she's got 55 seconds left I suspect if she could find a top she'll be quicker than I mor II was but not if she takes too long on this head wall can't really afford to waste any time needs to use it wisely 45 seconds left of the action here in Toulouse for this women's qualifier there's plenty more drama to come though that's for sure as the scores are worked out and the permutations are figured out 30 seconds to go let's go wreck a needs to get a move on here the median fans must be screaming at the TV now for her to go faster 23 seconds left these to get that clipped on it's going to be so tight if she does find a top where this is quicker than I Maurice you chalks up again looks good get moving 12 seconds now he/she goes launches for the top and misses it are there was so much riding on that for so many people let's go a kovitch I think knows that she's done enough for a place in the final it's everyone below her now that watches nervously so it'll be a 45 plus it saves me a cramp all the same as Lauer Agora but it'll come down to time so I'm re will claim first let's go a Kovich will move into the top 4 between 2nd and 4th position yet to be determined were waiting for it to flash up oh that was tough to watch there's so much riding on the time and she was just burning through it chalking up on the head wall I suppose the first job is always to get the moves done and worry about the time second but let's see where that leaves you it hasn't come through yet much garrachova cheese score or position third she's showing off on the lead wall so that means that I'm or alleged Karaka which mere trample Lauer Agora Futaba eto Julius channel D Yulia Kalina and Kyra combi are the top eight now if things stay as they are that means that Lauer Agora Julia shall OD Yulia cap Lena Kyra condi and healing song would be receiving an invitation to the Olympics and it would mean that Luca rocky reach a mere cram we'll have to battle it out and whoever finishes highest on Sun in Sunday's final would then get an Olympic invitation as well but there are so many ifs buts and maybes in that sentence right now Margot Hayes and Jane Kim's still tied on fifth I don't think either them could actually make it up into that top eight so I think I think that we can safely say that that is a scenario we've got the judges have made a very quick decision regarding the time with those three climbers tied on 45 Plus on the lead world Mia crumpled Luka Kovac and Lauer Agora let's have another look at this top 10 yeah if things stay as they are and I'm just thinking if the potential changes is that there might be to the mathematics and the standings I don't think that any of them will actually materially affect it I and 90% says than that I Miriam Futaba Ito will not be receiving an Olympic invitation because Japan have already filled their quota looks correct which a mere crumble or both be in the final and they'll have to battle it out for that one slot they never finished his highs on Sunday we'll get that slot and that means that Lauer Agora Julius Channel D yulia cap Lena Kyra Conde and yelling song will all be receiving invitations to the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020 that's how it appears right now of course we can have Appeals we can have four changes there are still a couple of things for the judges to look at but that's certainly how it appears of course has ever checked the I foresee social media and the website for confirmation but I'm pretty sure that is the situation there right now high drama here in Toulouse as I say keep an eye on all the usual channels just to have all that news confirmed and we will see you on the Sunday unlike the men's conversation Sunday will determine who will get one of the Olympics lot because it's going to be me a crammed full or looked Karaka which they will battle it out on Sunday for that final slot but another day of high drama here in Toulouse concludes we'll be back tomorrow with more with the men's final of course immense Olympics lots already handed out but the finals will be tomorrow where Olympic seeding will be decided and I will speak to that another amazing day here in the South of France [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music]

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 112,765

Rating: 4.8818793 out of 5

Keywords: Sport, climbing, ifsc, 2019, live, streaming, replay, rock, competition, champions, combined, olympic, qualifications, france, toulouse, tournefeuille, qualifiers, lead, women, olympics

Id: d2gUmMSKxz4

Length: 136min 23sec (8183 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 29 2019