I Bought a Mechanically Totaled Porsche and Fixed it with a $200 Amazon Timing Kit

I just bought this Porsche at a bank sale where was marked with an engine issue and because of that it sold for basically scrap value and I took it straight to the dealer because it's under an open recall that might fix its engine totally free now I brought this car here on the trailer because in its current state it's a ticking Time Bomb let me show you why this loose timing chain is likely the root of our engine issues but let's go back just a few hours when the car was first dropped off the transporter left it in a super convenient spot right here in the middle of traffic he obviously moved it on and off his truck so it's no surprise that it runs and [Music] drives okay all right it's running uh really crummy that's good look at this guy he's doing an oil change here in the middle of the road this thing has a really bad Idol as soon as I got the Porsche home I plugged in my scanner so we could read its engine codes and right off the bat we found a crankshaft cam shaft correlation code along with multiple misfires and a few fuel related issues at this point I popped the oil cap and found this slack in our timing chain it's pretty obvious this thing is out of time and several years ago Porsche issued a recall for their cam adjuster bolts not only on the Panamera but also for the Cayenne that has the same exact V8 engine basically these bolts that hold the gear to the cam adjuster would back out or break and this is all attached to the cam shaft when this would happen the adjuster will spin but the cam shaft will stay put and that'll definitely put you out of time now I have the recall paper right here and it basically tells you how to pinpoint a broken cam adjuster bolt it starts with a set of diagnostic trouble codes and the codes listed here are nearly a onetoone match of what we've already generated with Carly our diagnostic to down the list it tells you to remove the oil cap and take a look at the cam shaft itself and watch it as you turn the motor over to see if this adjuster which again is basically a big gear spins in sync with the cam shaft so we went ahead and did this and everything did spin in syn like it should so I took things one step further and put a scope camera down this oil cap to take a look at these adjuster bolts because I just couldn't believe that this recall was never done and it turns out the bolts that came installed in this car were definitely the factory Originals you could tell because the originals were a security Tor with a dot in the center of the head now when I bought this car I had checked the VIN and saw this open recall but I called the dealership to verify they said it had never been done and this is all insane considering this recall was issued again several years ago from Porsche and this car has 180,000 Mi 160,000 of that 180,000 were done from the first owner and he serviced this car religious ly so how it was never done is beyond me but the other side is that it doesn't seem like the bolts that are known to fail have failed so it's very likely that just another part of our timing system at 180,000 Mi has been worn out but the dealership's got to mess with the timing system and if you think about it they've got to take those old style bolts out when they torque the new ones back in they're going to be putting tension on our adjusters our cam gears and they risk slipping those gears with a loose timing chain so while they could probably perform this recall while being very very careful it's a bit risky for a dealership to take a car that's out of time mess with the timing system and hand it back to the customer without the very least telling me about the issues that it currently has or just game plan it with me one way or another either way we're going to drop this thing at the dealership and hopefully they can tell us what's wrong with it and if we get really lucky maybe they're even able to fix what wrong with it and give it back to us all under the recall before we get it into the uh dealership we should take these stickers off this car is really Shifty to run listen to this uh we have to make it from right here to just across the street without it skipping time let's see if we can do it that's probably the way we should have taken this into the dealer but I like to live dangerously so it's been like 3 days since we dropped this Porche off at the dealership I finally heard from them they sent me a text message uh with a video attached to it and the video is the tech that's working on the car uh in the service Bay and he's basically just recommending additional things be done to the car while it's still there at the dealer I won't play his audio but I'll just basically tell you what he's saying he first starts off by saying all the tires are 6 years old so he recommends that we get those replaced and recommends that we do the front brakes at the same time because they're worn but anyway he recommends we get a set of spark plugs while we're there and then this is the most interesting part of the whole entire video he says that your engine is vibrating heavily so I suggest this set of replacement motor mounts now in my opinion the engine is vibrating heavily because it's continuously misfiring because it's out of time but he doesn't mention anything about the timing system he says it's uh basically ready to be picked up at that point I get on the phone with the service advisor who's a guy in the office not working on the car and he has that list of stuff that the tech uh basically recommended I had him price it out just wait till you hear the price on some of this stuff it's outrageous it sure doesn't sound like they did any additional work in the timing Department maybe I was totally kidding myself and just surprised that nothing was mentioned but anyway we won't know what happened until we get the car and check it out for ourselves all right I got my paperwork here I'm assuming this is going to sound identical to the way we left it to him let's see here yeah same all right I'm a bit surprised at the dealership here and to be completely honest I wasn't looking for some sort of free major service along with a new timing set and everything done at their dime that would be totally unreasonable I was just looking for them to pinpoint the issue which I think you could probably do with the valve covers off that's as far as they got during the recall and if they were an amazing dealer when they pinpointed that issue they would have said hey you know you got a major problem but we've already started taking apart your engine to do the recall so we'll take that sort of time off your bill here's what it's going to cost you uh but instead they suggested I get new motor mounts and wait till you hear how much they were $ 4,346 for a set of engine mounts installed along with that they quoted $2,587 for front pads and rotors honestly brakes are super expensive at the dealership you should never get them done there and uh last was pretty insane as well spark plugs $2,246 they look super simple to get to and we'll have them out here in a moment because I think we're going to start ripping this engine apart and see if we can't figure out what's wrong with it but this is where I urge you guys I've said it in a ton of videos to get a diagnostic tool we knew more than apparently the dealership teched with this little tool here course charges like $300 an hour now call him up I swear to you I couldn't believe one he told me it's $300 a labor hour this is well less than bucks and the cool thing about Carly is that it's a full system scanner for a ton of different makes and models you know the cheaper tools usually will just tell you just your engine codes this will tell you everything wrong from your engine transmission brakes to all the electronics and the interior and everything so provides dealer level Diagnostics uh and they take it one step further with something called smart mechanic so if you have a common issue on your specific car they'll have a support article there ready for you it will tell you exactly what your problem is and then will give you a list of the most common fixes for that problem so this tool was definitely designed with the DIY in mind no matter your level of skill I still find it very important to have a diagnostic reader if you own a car so at the very least you have the knowledge to know what's going on with your car because it's the difference of you owning your own car or the dealership owning you I've left a link to this tool down in the description now we've got to figure out what our problem is with this Porsche we're going to start simply by just removing the valve covers just like the dealership did this engine doesn't look too terribly bad like you see these covers here that look like they just kind of get out of the way yeah that was easy all right the other side let's see I actually stuck this motor mount here over this thing does this slide under no it doesn't slide under so I mean it just will come out with one bolt and this will probably spin upward by the way they wanted to sell us motor mounts look at that thing that motor mount looks brand new otherwise it's a matter of just kind of pulling and moving just disconnect everything here pull these ignition coils out the valve covers don't look like they'll be too difficult to get out of place maybe a couple of tight screws to get to but otherwise not bad considering it's a portion they charge a fortune for any work on it at the dealer cool all right there we go let's see what we [Music] got there you go right here that gasket should be new so that was good there all right oo still a little warm from us moving it and so oil cover was here dude what's going on look at this before there was I could literally slap this against the valve cover now it's got perfect tension look this isn't moving at all I guess the slack could be elsewhere or is it the hydraulic tensioner is going to bleed off and we've got a worn hydraulic tensioner I thought it was for sure the GU well we still got to get this side off and that'll help us figure did he change these no no okay good good call so if we look on the back here these guys here and according to the uh service advisor they just take one out at a time and I think there's four of them in there and they just put another one in that's why he said that they didn't have to mess with the timing but you would think they were putting torque against this right there's a a tool that goes against the cam shafts back here you can actually see where the timing dots are right there and right there uh and it only you know fits in one place You' think if they were putting torque against this they would want to put that timing tool in wouldn't you think if they were changing the bolts you know so anyway this is crazy that there's perfect tension so there's more to this story either the hydraulic tensioner got a problem there's slack in the chain elsewhere which doesn't make a lot of sense turn the engine over by hand well we're going to do that let's let's get that other cover off first all right here we go let's see what do we got again we got perfect tension on this side too how did you check the tension before I literally stuck my finger on this and it the oil engine cap and it would just hit the valve uh cover so you weren't able to check this side at all definitely not all right there we go perfect look at that all right I think I see something Mike this is unbelievable but it's kind of exactly what we thought and uh well I think Mike even already sees it Mike what do you see I see the a piece of the plastic guide right here just a piece though you don't see a lot of the plastic guide just a piece it's actually quite loose so you want to get a picture of it before it falls deeper into the engine oh there you go there's some good slack in the chain okay okay so it's really dependent on the position the chain is in and where that plastic is moving at the time let's see we got the scope so you can see it a little bit better but you see that so that's it's pieces of the guide bunching up in there it's all broken up now look I want you to switch it from this side switch it to this side you could see there's like literally just one Shard of it left and the rest of it's straight metal take a look see there you go there's the bridge guide right there and there's just a fragment of plastic hanging on for dear life in the corner here that guide is completely gone you could see A Shard of plastic just hanging out right there so my question is okay you got to figure the tech the tech had the engine just like we have it here both valve covers off in order to do the recall that's as um disassembled as this engine was okay something like this should he have spotted that again from the naked eye here you can see that that's straight metal and there should be a little bit of plastic on the end the plastic spans the entire way of that guide it normally looks something like this that little thin piece of plastic is basically the barrier between the timing chain and the metal bridge that it runs on after seeing nearly 200,000 Mi on this Porsche it's got to just be worn to bits and even though it's probably only a millimeter or two thick the difference is enough to cause slack in the chain and it's got to be why we're out of time driving this thing right now with that little thin plastic strip ining would be like uh hopping on a public Wi-Fi without using nordvpn at any moment a good time could turn into a bad time because your online life is vulnerable to trackers and cyber criminals but with just one tap or one click nordvpn encrypts your data by redirecting your traffic through a remote server making it untrackable and keeping your personal data yours and since you can virtually change locations you can take advantage of geographical based pricing and where that's really helped me out is when I'm shopping for European car Parts on these projects you know a lot of these parts are way more plentiful overseas which generally makes them a bit cheaper and on some of these popular Marketplace and auction sites they're listings that are simply just hidden from searches here in the states so when I VPN over to England I'll unlock a ton of new listings and I'll sometimes pay like less than half of what I would normally pay here in the states simply because I'm using nordvpn and I've been a paid member of nordvpn over Last 5 Years here it's something I use on a daily basis and right now when you visit nordvpn.com samrack or hit the link in the description you're going to get four months for free when you sign up for a 2-year plan these plans start at like $3 a month so it's very nominal cost to secure your online life and you can find all this over at nordvpn.com samrack now from what I read the dealership actually quotes an engine out job to the tuna like 30 labor hours in order to do a timing job on both the Panamera and the Cayenne but I'm trying to figure out why that's the case because if you look at the front of the motor here this is our timing cover you can see where it actually splits off the car basically we need to get that off in order to get to our guides our tensioner anything that would be a wear component in the timing system and uh well from here to even just the front of the fan look it there's a decent amount of room there Out imagine you could get a lot of tools in between all this if we just remove you know little things like our intake box and whatnot and especially if we remove the radiator fan itself we'd have a ton more room so I'm just going to go and start pulling off all the little things around here let's get the radiator hoses disconnected and see if we got enough room to knock this job out literally here in the middle of a cow pasture now in this car is almost 200,000 miles on the road there are a lot of Fasteners missing which well is making my job so far easier there are only two clips holding this fan in place I don't have the appropriate socket to uh take the tension off the belt tensioner but what we just did was remove all the bolts holding the tensioner in place and uh we'll just have to get that socket when it all goes back together but at this point you can see the belt is nice and loose we should be able to pop it off there we go so I ran out and got a clean storage container here and it was $6 so Porsche coolant would cost us more like $30 or $40 a gallon I think we're best off saving this since it looks so nice and uh reusing it when we're all done so far working on this engine has been like disassembling an American V8 it is truly that easy and well laid out there's a ton of room everywhere and heck we almost got the entire front end strip in order to take our timing cover off what I want to do next is pull our spark plugs for a few reasons number one of course the dealership tried to sell us a new set of eight for like what 20320 400 bucks so we got to make sure that they're actually the end of their life right but also we want to check inside the cylinder there make sure that our valves don't have any damage from the car running out of time and last well it just make our lives a whole lot easier when we check the timing of the car with the plugs out now again remember they wanted well over $2,000 to do the spark plugs in this car there's eight of them you don't have to take the valve covers off in order to do that we just obviously have them off for other reasons and I'm going to take one plug out in real time this one is already loose enough for me to turn with my little mini breaker here and now I'm turning it by hand I figure at this rate take no more than 5 6 minutes to pull your ignition coil out pull the spark plug out replace it with a new spark plug and tidy everything back up and on top of that uh well you got to figure that each new spark plug these are Bosch aridium spark plugs so they're going to be a little pricier they might cost you what 10 bucks a piece but what does that end up being 80 bucks in spark plugs and maybe 30 45 minutes of your time I just don't think that's worth $2,400 all right there's a better view of it what the plug might have just a little bit of like sood on it but overall I would just clean the tips of these and run them again again this is a very nice plug these are probably maybe $10 to $ 122 if you bought them from Porsche they'd be a little bit more expensive but I can almost guarantee you these have been replaced at least once just by looking at them you know plugs that have been run over 100,000 mies usually are way more dark in the threads here um there is no reason to replace these and again in my estimation the dealer is just doing Blind estimates on stuff to to get the easy jobs for the high dollars I brought Mike back today he brought his large shaft with him here Mike what is this for uh it's for holding the crank pulley in place you want to be more excited you got a big shaft in your hands come on not a lot of people can say that here we go I brought Mike back for the day he's brought his big shaft one of the important things about Mike is that he helped me time the first engine I ever timed Ford Fiesta 1.6 L the water pump was leaking the only way to get to is behind the timing cover behind the timing tensioner that's a Ford design Mike you brought your big shaft with you how are we going to use this shaft to time well it's not for timing yet right we're just removing more stuff just breaks the crank F bolt loose and you need that big of a tool in order to do it apparently um you need a lot of Leverage I guess okay where'd you get this one from Amazon Ren to as simple as that we kind of just get the thing in place come on there's no way like one hand is it going feels like it's going is it going wow I thought it was going to be like more dramatic than that wow I can't believe how easy that was Mike oh there you go look at that here we go we're almost ready to pull this timing cover off but before we do we have to drain our oil I went and dropped the undershield here you could see this oil pan has been leaking for quite a while this is uh nasty but it's an easy oil pan to pull off and reseal and you know we found some plastic shards up there in the engine what not to say that a couple made their way down in the pan we will find this out a little later right now I just want to pull the drain plug which looks like it's been stripped a bit hopefully that's not too big of an issue and uh get the rest of the oil out that way it doesn't slash all over us when we pull the timing cover but I am noticing one good thing back here and you look at the transmission pan all back there that all looks extremely clean but the more we go through this car we're finding more good than bad all right well change of plans I thought we were going to deal with this oil pan later we're dealing with it right now because that drain plug is so incredibly stripped uh and I just don't have any other sockets no torqus no uh hex keys will fit in it I've already went and loosened every single one of these screws on the pan so we didn't have any issue there I'm going to take him out one by one on the back end here and hopefully we can get most of it in the drain bucket see if we can find anything in here oh I'm already seeing a couple fragments look at this let's see is that metal or is that plastic plastic that's plastic uh I thought that this was the magnet in the corner this is the magnet right here look there's two massive pieces of it oh my goodness there's going to be so much more left in it when we pop that timing cover open I bet but yeah the good news is I'm not seeing any out of the ordinary metal I mean maybe just a smidgen and remember I'm working outside here so maybe a little bit of dirt you know bleue in there but otherwise this is dirty oil and a bunch a bunch bunch of plastic taking a closer look at our oil here I am finding a little bit of glitter in it but I'm not too worried about it yet see this glitter is more silver which would tell me what's happening is the timing chain is obviously rubbing up against what's left of the timing guide which is metal so that's where our metal to metal is likely coming from and when you consider that almost nine quarts of oil came out of this uh even though we had an oil leak it's not like it was run severely low on oil to the point where we'd be doing wear to the bearings or something like that when you have bearing material in your oil the color is more gold and in my experience it looks a little bit heavier than what we see here so yeah getting the manifold off was actually pretty simple here's the cable right here that runs underneath another cap in order to get this cap out of place you got to take the fuel rail up I was able to just kind of wiggle in there with a wrench and get that nut off and now I am working on the rest of the screws on this timing cover and these are aluminum screws so they're really soft couple of them are pretty gummy and this vice grips has saved me a couple times didn't save me there um three out of probably you know two dozen so far have stripped very easily so I'm trying to take it easy I'm using no power tools uh and I'm trying to go in without the extension where I can but the good news is this is the one that took me the longest probably about 15 minutes which isn't bad for a strip screw now let's watch this see what happens I can hear a bunch of stuff moving around in there and just falling let's see here oh my gosh the change just popped a little bit like oh do you hear look at the look at this I'm just on this cable of course let me see if I can move this forward a little bit yeah yeah there we go move this all right here we go this move out there it is out come on all right there's one here it comes boy they it is off and we have a mess of plastic oh my goodness I was wondering where all that slack came in the chain I didn't realize that the tensioner is actually held in by the cover here so that's why the chain is all flopping around at this point and well we'll be able to remove it super easily but you can see all the shards of plastic that have gone everywhere uh the good news is we already took that oil pan off so anything that fell further down there we'll be able to fish out right now our main goal is to just get all of the wear components off which are the chain and the guides here and then we just put it all back together so far we haven't hit any major roadblocks and everything is just coming part like Legos now I'd have to assume that this is the original timing chain and it looks pretty great but the guides were a totally different story now the two lower guides just popped right out of place and they were in terrible shape with cracks everywhere it's no telling how much longer these would have lasted we're definitely catching everything here right before a catastrophic incident and the scariest part of it all is probably this tiny spring-loaded tensioner that's for the oil pump chain this was also cracked and if it would have gotten any worse it would have basically destroyed the engine Beyond any reason reasonable repair yeah no plastic left strange the way they put this on it's really just clipped on either edge here so when it breaks it literally just comes apart in the engine oh there they go there it is these are just little plastic guides that fit in between the cam gears here here oh that one came right out oh that one's broken too so yeah lots of old brittle plastic that just needs to be replaced like I said earlier we forgot to take this tensioner out of the cover before we pulled the cover off shouldn't have done that so now I think the easiest way to get it out is just with this breaker bar and yeah there we go and this is one of the only decent timing components that is left you can't even push that in it's so firm which is pretty incredible when you think that it's been in there for 180,000 miles so we probably got about a day's worth of Labor invested into this Porsche at this point uh and well we've got to throw a whole entire new timing set on it so I figure it might be a good idea to show you the overall condition of the car because that's one of the reasons I think it's worth fixing you know it could be hard to justify spending time and money on something that's old and worn out well there's a few little unsightly Parts on this Porsche like this smashed out rear tail light and the driver's side door panel leather here you can see it's got a wear spot where somebody likely sat their elbow well might just look like a piece of junk but if you look at the rest of the interior and the exterior cosmetic condition this car is actually in really good shape now I said earlier that the first owner the original owner of this Porsche put 160,000 M on it the second owner had it less than 20,000 Mi and usually when you have a low amount of owners with a high amount of miles it results in a car that's been very well taken care of and I mean the rest of the body in this car is pretty much imaculate the rear seats are in really good shape and if you look at what a used paname costs nowadays I mean even a high mileage one of these can fetch upwards of 20,000 bucks so if we've got a day's worth of disassembly we're definitely going to have a day's worth of reassembly uh and probably a little bit more than that just to make sure we take our time during the timing process and do everything right but if you consider a few days labor on this car everything is gone by so far so good and the fact that I found a timing kit for this car for $230 on Amazon and seriously that's really the only thing I bought for this car as far as Parts go bought the the timing kit for 230 bucks I did buy the specialty timing tools to make sure we do this right they're the originals from China and they were open box so those only cost me 80 bucks and well we're going to have to throw some new oil in it and stuff like that but for probably less than $500 or a little bit over of one labor hours worth the work at the dealer uh we should be able to fix this car and get this that cheap timing kit that we just bought included overnight shippings so we'll have it any moment all we got to do is grab these parts put them back in place and hopefully we'll have a good time these guides going real easy I got a little bit of oil here and we oiled up the little stud that they sit on we're going to just sit them kind of in place like that now the tensioner will ride up against this one that's why it's real floppy like that so we can kind of just leave it hanging the opposite side guide has this little springloaded tensioner here and so there's a pin that's keeping it in place so we don't have to fight it there we go all right you can see there's a bit of slack in our oil pump chain here so when we take this pin just kind of pull it out now there's tension against it and this one just bolts right back into place before I I throw the chain on I'm just going to throw a little motor oil on all the plastic here so on its first run and when we're turning it over it's nice and uh lubricated last we'll put on this fresh chain and make sure it's nicely set over the sprockets and in between all of our guides I've heard of other people reusing their old chains because they feel like the chains have a more polished Edge after being run so long and this softer Edge would bring more longevity to the new guides I find all this a bit hard to believe but honestly I didn't really see anything wrong with the old chain and I would have been fine with reusing it in a pinch but it made me curious if we were to try to do this job even cheaper by just buying every failed plastic guide would it make sense and the answer was not really so each guide cost around $100 by themselves so it's way cheaper just to buy this entire kit and get all the new parts that come along with it now timing this engine is a bit different than others since the tensioner is held in place by the cover we actually have to close things up before we can do our most important part we're ready to put the timing cover back on we've done a few test runs with it and so we've taken just a few little other hoses and things out of the way to make our lives as easy as possible got my friend F here this is going to be a job really meant for two people we're going to put a little bit of RTV where the shop manual calls for it hopefully this thing goes back on perfectly this is why test run was so important we got a little smudge of RTV right there and a little one right there if you look everywhere else I think we did pretty darn good considering everything in our way so I'm going to just go and clean this off now we need to just get this timing cover put in place so that this Bond can cure nicely all right now let's have a good time to start this process we'll loosen all the bolts on the cam gears they're on super tight but once they're loose the cam shafts will move independ ly and we can just turn them with a wrench until we see our timing marks doesn't need to be perfect yet we'll get them roughly in place with the dots facing upward now in our special kit here there's a Pneumatic tool that basically acts as a temporary chain tensioner this thing is clunky and cumbersome and they tell you that it can be fit in through the wheel Arch which means more disassembly but we're going to cheat here and just use our new tensioner now brand new out of the packaging these are still pretty springy and easy to move unlike our old one and that's because when the engine is running they'll fill with oil through these little passages which gives them hydraulic pressure I stuck the new one in a cup of oil before we installed it and pumped it in and out a few times just to get it a little firmer and then it easily slotted in place and I just spun it in by hand we're not tightening it all the way yet it just needs to be in place enough to put a little bit of tension on the Chain lastly we'll reinstall our crank pulley and spin it till the one section has a little hole and it gets close to the 6:00 position and we'll feel for that spot with this pin that comes comes with our tool kit there our crankshaft should be locked in top dead center now let's go back up to the cam shafts and on either side we need to fit these cam locking tools they pop in like a puzzle piece this is where we fine-tune the position of the cams just a little bit either way and once these tools fit uniformly we are in time all the Locking tools still fitted we now need to just torque our cam gear bolts now we're basically ready to start this Porsche but it would be foolish not to double check our work first we have our locking pin in place which means cylinder 1 should be in top dead center now they don't tell you to do this but we can just verify by sticking our dowel pin here it's in the spark plug hole and it won't go down hardly at all which is a very good sign and then we've got our locking tools on either side and you can see they're sitting flush with the head that's the biggest thing that you need to check for when you're doing this if they're off on a little bit of an angle your timing can still be off but these are sitting exactly where they should be here and again here I've went and tightened all of our cam gear and adjuster bolts here so again nothing should move at this point and our tensioner is just hand tight remember I'm going to go through and retorque everything but right now what we want to do is spin this engine back over by hand and make sure that it's all in time all right here we go we're going to take each locking tool out we've got the PIN in here out and we're just going to take our half in Ratchet we want to be able to easily control this so here we go I'm just keeping a close watch for our timing marks to show up and I'm starting to see them now on both sides which means we're getting close yep so here's what we're going to do we're going to take our pin we'll put it in the crank pulley it's not all the way to where it can lock in the engine but if I turn it a little bit I should feel it slide in there it is right there and now if we've kept a good time these should just go on perfectly all right let's see this looks pretty good although there's a tiny Gap right right here I'm not too worried about it yet because that might be taken up when we actually tighten our tensioner but let's try the other side here same Z on this side it's pretty darn perfect though this should be good to go let me go ahead let's tighten our tensioner and do this one more time now we can't forget about that stripped oil pan screw luckily I have the set of extractors and this one fit perfectly in the hex head few light taps with a hammer and a Twist of a wrench rip this guy right out nobody has time to deal with the dealership so I went to the auto parts store and got this generic drain plug a new oil filter and and a fresh tube of RTV this really has to be one of the easier portions to work on the oil filter housing comes off with a socket and there's plenty of room to move about and so for about 20 bucks in supplies we have a resealed oil pan with a fresh oil filter and a functional drain plug all right this should be the last step before we're able to test fire this just going to fill it up with oil takes about 9 quarts now not everything is back I don't even have the belt drive back on so none of the accessories are going to be running but basically we want to just be able to run this long enough to make sure well it runs way better than it did before we're going to clear our codes we're going to have a couple new ones pop up because again the alternator is not running the water pump's not running but if we did this right our engine should run way smoother and our correlation codes should go completely away as well as our misfire codes all right we're ready we've got our tensioner torque we've got all the cam adjusters torqued I tightened down our crank pulley here everything else is kind of loose in case we made a mistake and need to get back in here it's been a long time since I've messed with engine timing let's hope we have a good time and we time this one right all right let's hope that uh the engine sounds better than the way that door does key in radio off now before this thing had a really long crank idled and ran really rough uh really all of those problems should be fixed if we are back in time let's see put on the break 3 2 1 okay the crank sounds good but uh well didn't start let's see here here we go 3 2 1 H not good wondering if there's anything in the fueling area I forgot to reconnect at this point it was early evening we had worked all day timing this engine making sure everything was set to put it back together so it was really annoying to have this crank no start after doing all that work but it is much better than hearing a single crank and nothing more so at the very least we know the motor is isn't locked up now we obviously drove this car to the spot where we started working on it so the first thing we can guess is that I forgot a connection when we were reassembling everything off the Jump I just figured our problem was fuel related because this thing isn't even attempting to start it's got a solid crank but there is zero gas smell so to start with the path of lease resistance I plugged Carly back in and did a code clear then I cranked the car again and rescanned if we left something unplugged it should leave a hard code pointing us to the exact problem the great news that on this scan all correlation codes went away and we did generate a new code but not for any broken connections this is a pretty generic code that basically says the car doesn't have enough fuel to start now there's a handful of reasons why we could have this code so again we got to start with the easiest I did a quick visual inspection I even loosened up the intake manifold again as that's where a lot of the fuel connections are and there was nothing wrong next I popped open the fuse box and found the fuel pump fuse and it was just fine now there's really only one simple thing left to do and that's make sure that there's actually gas in the tank if you go look at the dash it does have a low fuel warning but it clearly says there's 11 mil till empty now the car is old and maybe the fuel sender is a bit wonky and if we are too low on gas this would definitely create a condition where there's not enough fuel for startups so I added a quick gallon and try it again oh there we go look at that just gas it was just out of gas come on that's all it was was could you imagine how silly we are just out of gas it already feels much smoother look at that it's just out of gas listen to that listen to how smooth that is listen to that think we're having a good time yet I think we're having a good time listen to how smooth that is look at that not vibrating at all wow amazing now let's check there's still a bunch of things unplugged like the fan control and whatnot so we might have a check engine Let's see we have a check engine on the dash we don't even have a check engine on the dash look at the RPM gauge about as still as it gets yes we know our alternator now hooked up but we did it we are just out of gas how ridiculous I knew it was something easy so this thing runs and it seems to run like amazing well at least for right now and I've always wanted a paname with the V8 engine but they've been pretty pricey because well they've just got that Porsche badge on them now I've got one for well under six grand at least for right now we're going to do a deep dive in this car and find everything else that might be wrong with it uh in the next video so make sure you subscribe to the channel by hitting that button below but right now we got to find out one last thing about this car and that is whether it truly has failed motor mounts because well if a dealership is going to quote me $4500 or $4,400 for a job and take almost $55,000 from me to do something of course well I'm just hoping that they put in the time to actually diagnose something something appropriately and sell me something that I actually kind of need obviously I'm skeptical mainly because they recommended spark plugs when in my opinion it totally did not need spark plugs but also because well we know our top mount is in good shape because we can see the bushing the ones that you can't see well they're underneath the engine they're mounting the engine to the frame those are the ones that do the Brun to the work this one on the top which isn't even hooked up right now okay uh doesn't do nearly as much so if those are failed on the bottom especially with our top one disconnected when we put this car in Drive mash the brake pedal and give it a little gas and this works on basically every single gasoline powered car this engine will leap out of the engine bay if the motor mount has failed here's a good example of a car with a bad motor mount so we're looking for something like that now there will always be a little bit of movement in your motor because well that's what the motor M Mount does it just dampens the vibrations of your engine if you had solid motor mounts like some race cars your engine will actually vibrate the heck out of the cabin so these are made out of like a uh soft rubber bushing and they're meant to have a little bit of give so it's okay to see a little bit of movement not a lot all we're going to do now is crank this thing [Music] over put it in drive and just give it a little gas well at least we know that those mountains are in good shape now this pretty timeconsuming repair has led to one of the lengthiest videos I've ever made but I quite like working on this old Porsche if you enjoyed watching it let me know by hitting that like button also if you're not already following me on Instagram where I post new projects there before they go live here well you can find me here just hit that link down in the description guys can't thank each and every one of you enough for watching today I'll catch you very soon

Channel: Samcrac

Views: 2,407,375

Keywords: porsche, turbo, copart, auction, cayman, 987, supercharged, rebuild, restoration, repair, mechanic, fix, turbocharger, manual, engine, carrera, macan, cayenne, volkswagen, bentley, panamera, timing chain, engine timing, timing belt, diy, scrap, junk, totalled, repo, reposession

Id: mGp6Ed2f0O4

Length: 46min 20sec (2780 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 28 2024