Unknown Speaker 0:00
About the PLM tool, the point of measurement tool and give you guys a demonstration on
how to do it. I'm going to talk briefly about just some
of the things that it does. And then when I'm done with that, I'm just
going to go ahead and demonstrate the whole entire assignment. So if you think you're picking it up, you
don't have to watch the whole thing. But anyways, here we go. So first of all, the PLM tool point of measurement,
it's this little tool right here. And then remember, do you guys remember what
it means if there's like a little arrow, that just means it's like the edit tool. So we don't have any point of measurements
on our pattern yet. So we don't want the edit tool yet. We can come back to that later if we like
mess up or change our mind or whatever. So I'm going to go back to the PLM. Now I have kind of played around like, Hey,
can I do PLM on the 3d? avatar? answer's no, you can't. So I'm just going to change it to the 2d window,
I don't really need her, it gives me a little bit more room as well. Okay, so this is our point of measurement
chart. So our first link is the body measurement
highpoint shoulder to edge. Hopefully, by now you know what the highpoint
shoulder is, it's going to be the top of the slope of the shoulder, the highest point it's
gonna go straight down and measure all the way down. Unknown Speaker 1:10
Now it does say High Point shoulder to edge. So if you're looking at this jacket, you might
think oh, that's probably to the bottom, you know where the rib is, it doesn't say High
Point shoulder to seam. So I'm taking it that it's going to be the
length of this front pattern piece, and then also the length of the rib. So I'm going to show you how to use the PLM
tool to measure the high point shoulder, and basically the whole garment. So I'm on it, the zoom in, I'm going to click
that one point, just one time, I'm zooming out, I'm gonna pan straight down, I like to
hold Shift, I'm going to zoom in a little bit holding Shift, and I'm just gonna click, Unknown Speaker 1:52
click one time, I'm not going to double click, I'm just going to actually go straight down
and zoom in. Unknown Speaker 2:01
Click, and then pan again, zoom in, hold Shift, and this is the end. So I'm going to click once and then I'll just
click one more time to finish it. So it looks like I'm going to switch to like
the Z tool, it looks like this is two inches, my rib, Unknown Speaker 2:20
plus 17.5060. And look at this, what it did here. For some reason, it looks like it added a
point because my neck was sort of curved in. So that's interesting. So it looks like my actual like high point
shoulder is going to be like half an inch basically like point 495, I'm just gonna round
it to half an inch. So plus 17.5. So really, that's like 18 inches, plus two. So my high point shoulder should be about
20 inches when I look at it. So let's see if that's what actually happened. And hit the edit tool. And yeah, it is 20 inches. So they did not add this weird middle part
they, it was kind of weird how they like added a point when I didn't want to, but I guess
it's just because it goes off the pattern a little bit. Another common measurement you're gonna see
is like the across shoulder. So I'm going to jump down to that one, just
to explain it to you guys. For those you guys that kind of want to work
on this yourself and don't want to watch the entire demonstration. So across shoulder, I know there are some
like 2d pattern companies that have this PLM tool, and you can like click where your cross
shoulder is and just do half of the pattern. And then you can say like double it. As far as I know, clo doesn't have that feature. But what I do is I'll just click here, I'll
go straight to center front, and then I'll come back. And so that way, I'm kind of like manually
doubling it. So watch, and you'll see what I mean. So to do a cross shoulder, I actually want
to extend Unknown Speaker 3:49
my center front line to some really clear where that is. So I can click this point and I can right
click, and I can say add perpendicular internal line. Okay, so, so funny. So I want a line going parallel with the y
axis. But this is a perpendicular tool. So I have to choose the x which is across
and that way I will get my perpendicular up and down line. kind of confusing, but you'll get used to
it. Unknown Speaker 4:17
Okay, so I'm just gonna say, I hit both just like seeing on both sides. I actually don't care what the length is,
for whatever reason it's defaulting to 14.9 who knows what yours is defaulting to, but
I just want to be able to see it. It's probably too long, but it doesn't matter. So I'm going to say okay, so cool. So now I have a center friend internal line
marked just for my reference. So I go back to my PLM tool, and I'm going
to click where my shoulder is the widest part of my shoulder. I'm going to click it on one time, I'm going
to hold shift and zoom in. I'm gonna go to that center front line with
a click just one time because I want that across front and I can't I mean, I guess I
could jump over and also do the other side. But I think it's Unknown Speaker 5:00
is easier to go back, especially if your pattern is symmetrical. And then I can click two times to finish. So, so my line was 7.8. But you can see the measurement is 15. Because I went once to the left, and then
back to the right. Unknown Speaker 5:17
I guess you could argue like, I could also make a center front line on the other side,
click here, click here, click here, and then do my double click there, kind of like I did
highpoint shoulder. But I just think it's easier doing it this
way on a symmetrical pattern. But again, there's always more than one way
to do the same thing. Okay, one more demo before I demonstrate the
whole thing. Is that to do curve, so let's say you really,
you're one of your PLM is like the curve length. So get your PLM tool, you click the start
of it. And then you can hold. I'm on a Mac, I hold command. Unknown Speaker 5:55
And so I'm gonna hit command again. And then I'll just do click click to end it. So then I have my curve line, Unknown Speaker 6:04
as well. And then it looks like it's off a hair. So I'm going to go with this edit tool, see
if I have any wiggle room to like, move it Not really. Oh, yeah, I do. Sorry. There we go. I think I saw a handlebar? No, I did not. That was made up. So yes, you're like a little limited, I will
say with a PLM tool compared to like other 2d pattern, drafting software programs. But it's still it's still pretty good and
great. You can get what you need done for the most
part. I think that's all I really need to tell you
other than you do need to change your names here. So your first one was our high Unknown Speaker 6:46
schooler. And then the second one was the cross shoulder. And then this was our front arm, Unknown Speaker 6:57
their front arm? Unknown Speaker 7:03
Can you click and drag or change these numbers? Let me see if any that number four. Yeah, it looks like you can change the numbers
to Well, let me click and drag and reorder them. Unknown Speaker 7:13
Not really doesn't look like that's an option, which that's fine. Because you can save this. And when you save it, it just it makes a file
that you can open up in Excel. It's a CSV file. And so you can obviously like move the cells
around at that point if you want and don't see a way to change it. I'm going to right click and just double check. Yeah, that's fine. Okay. Unknown Speaker 7:41
All right. So I'm going to go ahead and just demo all
of our measurements. For those of you guys that are kind of new
to poi measurements, you're welcome to just watch and follow along. If that helps you guys. If you're familiar with it, you're probably
like, whatever I can do this without watching this video, which is fine as well. Okay, so we need to do our chest circumference
at armhole. Hmm. Okay. So that's probably going to be this measurement
down here. What is the width of the chest, right at the
armhole. And it looks like we could do it on the quarter
cent means I only need to go across at once. So I'm going to go ahead and get my PLM tool. I'm just going to click here. holding Shift, zooming in. Unknown Speaker 8:29
And click click Unknown Speaker 8:33
OK. So that was on my thing was actually number
two. Unknown Speaker 8:40
Number two, and I'm gonna say chest Unknown Speaker 8:55
pain, okay, yeah, I'm already and it looks like you know, I'm writing off spec, but I
don't really care it's at that's also something for this assignment you do not I do not expect
all your measurements to match this. You know sheet a lot of times your first patterns
don't match and then you do fitting and you change them anyways, I just want you to put
all the POS and it's totally okay if your numbers do not match this sheet, so don't
stress out about that. Unknown Speaker 9:22
Okay, so, armhole. Let's see we have that I'm just going to change
your arm to number three Unknown Speaker 9:30
front arm, I think it's interesting too. They just have arm holding and saves the front
or the back as well. Some companies will do arm bolt drop. Unknown Speaker 9:39
And if you're interested in where that is, Unknown Speaker 9:43
you can have that tool. So arm will drop is basically how far away
it is from the high point shoulder. So I think what I'd like to do is make an
internal line where the height weight shoulder is Unknown Speaker 9:58
going to make it perpendicular Unknown Speaker 10:00
From the y axis, okay, that's probably big enough. Unknown Speaker 10:04
So Unknown Speaker 10:05
your armhole drop is going to be, Unknown Speaker 10:09
simply go anywhere in this line from here, straight down Unknown Speaker 10:15
to here. Unknown Speaker 10:19
And that would be like your front. Unknown Speaker 10:22
Well, I guess the front and the back would be the same. Unknown Speaker 10:28
Okay? Unknown Speaker 10:32
All right, I'm just gonna call it number three also. Unknown Speaker 10:35
Okay, so number four is our shoulder slope. So I'm glad that I made that a high point
shoulder, kind of perpendicular line. And then here's my shoulder point. So the shoulder slope is like the measurement
from heidemann shoulder to where the actual bottom of the slope is. So again, you get your tool, and there's my
shoulder point, I can hold shift and get right up to that high point shoulder. Like one time, click again, to finish it. So it's an inch and a half. And that's actually what they asked us to
get. So that's good. And it's number four. So perfect. Unknown Speaker 11:12
Okay, so now we're going to do number five, the crossover, I actually did the cross shoulder
already. It's right here, this one number at number
five. Unknown Speaker 11:21
And then we want to do the across front, five inches below our high point shoulder. Unknown Speaker 11:26
So here's our high point shoulder line. And we want another internal line five inches
below. So I'm going to right click this guy, I'm
going to say, offset as internal line. Actually. Unknown Speaker 11:44
Let's see. Unknown Speaker 11:52
Okay. Unknown Speaker 11:59
Oh, yeah, no, this is the right tool, sorry, had a brain fart there will be distance will
be five inches, I think it went up. So we could say reverse direction. And we'll say Okay, so now this internal line
is five inches from the high point shoulder, that's where our across front measurement
is. So it's five inches below the high point shoulder. Now across front, they have the measurement
14, they're measuring it the garment as if the garment was zipped up close yet, they're
measuring straight across from like that armhole. We have a little space in between ours. So Unknown Speaker 12:35
I think it's just easiest to just because it is a symmetrical pattern. I'm just going to click right here. And then I'll hold SHIFT Unknown Speaker 12:43
and click on one time on the center front. And then I'm just going to come back, I mean,
I guess I could click here as well. Unknown Speaker 12:51
No click one time and then do my double click here. Right on it. Unknown Speaker 12:59
Click Click. Unknown Speaker 13:01
I guess that should be the same measurement as if I just clicked right here, right here
and came back. Unknown Speaker 13:12
Oh, I think I might have clicked off a little bit. They're almost the same. So I guess I'm off a little bit just with
my lines. But But either way, whatever you guys think
is easier is fine by me. So that's our cross brand. Unknown Speaker 13:26
Okay, so I got it, keep up with the names. It's gonna get real confusing. Unknown Speaker 13:38
Also the Unknown Speaker 13:43
shoulder. Unknown Speaker 13:56
This is actually number six as well. Unknown Speaker 14:00
Okay, so then they want to do the across back. Also five inches below hiking shoulder. So I'm gonna hand over to the backside. Unknown Speaker 14:11
I think I'm just gonna go ahead and pull out a perpendicular line to mark where my shoulder
is. So we'd be perpendicular from the y axis. Unknown Speaker 14:22
Like that going both ways. Okay. Unknown Speaker 14:26
And then Unknown Speaker 14:35
offset. You want to drop it five inches. Is it going the right way? Yes. Okay. Unknown Speaker 14:42
There we go. So now Unknown Speaker 14:45
I have my mark of where Unknown Speaker 14:49
my cross back is. So I can hit the PLM tool, I can click Unknown Speaker 14:56
right on the pattern line. Unknown Speaker 15:00
So this guy, I guess I can go all the way for this one. Unknown Speaker 15:07
Okay. Unknown Speaker 15:09
Looks like Unknown Speaker 15:11
they asked for 15, we're at 14.8. We're a little shy, okay? Unknown Speaker 15:24
Okay, so number eight is our front neck drop Unknown Speaker 15:28
over, there's my high point shoulder. So it's really to wherever this is. So maybe I should bring out the internal line
on the other side as well. Unknown Speaker 15:44
Right click, Unknown Speaker 15:49
add a perpendicular line from the Y, Unknown Speaker 15:56
my PLN tool, I can click here and go straight down and click, click. OK, so that's number eight. Right now. Unknown Speaker 16:13
It says High Point shoulder seam. So I'm not including Unknown Speaker 16:20
or I'm not stopping at the trim. Like if it said from the edge of the rib,
then you're hiding shoulder should actually like stop wherever your trim is. But this particular instruction sets High
Point shoulder to see. So Unknown Speaker 16:41
that's going to be Unknown Speaker 16:47
right there. That's our seam line. Unknown Speaker 16:50
Okay, Unknown Speaker 16:52
so now we need to do the back neck drop as well. Unknown Speaker 16:56
Here, we already have our high point shoulder line for us, I can hit the pen tool, or an
assembler PLM tool. Let's start with the same part at the lowest
part of the back, neck drop, holding Shift, and I'm going to Unknown Speaker 17:11
click click Unknown Speaker 17:14
OK, I let go ship. Let's try it one more time. Unknown Speaker 17:22
Click Click Unknown Speaker 17:24
OK, that time it actually did get exactly one inch. So that's going to be our back neck Unknown Speaker 17:34
to see, Unknown Speaker 17:40
hey, Unknown Speaker 17:42
with Sema to seem so again, we're ignoring our rib trim to get this measurement. Unknown Speaker 17:51
And Okay, so we've made a human tool, I'm going to click right here, I already have
my center front line, identify it. So I'm just going to click where the net is
open the most wide point, you go through center front, I'm going to zoom in, I'm holding Shift,
I'm just going to click one time. And I'm just going to go back. Again, I could have put a center point in
the other side and hop over there. But I know this pattern is symmetrical anyways,
so I'm just going to go back. Unknown Speaker 18:19
Double click event. Okay, that was number 10. And that was our neck with Unknown Speaker 18:32
Hey, Unknown Speaker 18:34
bottom opening extended. Unknown Speaker 18:39
So upon opening extended, we have some rib trim, perhaps the rib is smaller. Unknown Speaker 18:45
In this case, it's actually the same, Unknown Speaker 18:49
isn't it so when it's extended usually means like, the elastic or whatever is pulled out
to the fullest. So I think in this case for me, I might do
the bottom opening on this pattern piece because then if you did have a rib trim, you could
extend it. Unknown Speaker 19:06
So let's see about Unknown Speaker 19:11
this Unknown Speaker 19:14
and I'm going to go back. Unknown Speaker 19:18
Okay. Unknown Speaker 19:26
Bottom opening. Unknown Speaker 19:33
Okay, sleeve length, they want the shoulder seam to the rib seam. Okay, so that's easy. Unknown Speaker 19:44
So the shoulder seam of where the sleeve gets sewn at the shoulder, so that's going to be
right here at the highest point. And then to the seam of where it gets sewn
to the rim. So easy. vcsels click one time, wood shed zimin Unknown Speaker 20:03
Okay, Unknown Speaker 20:05
so that's going to be our sleeping Unknown Speaker 20:13
shoulder seam to read, Unknown Speaker 20:17
not read edge, the bicep is going to be one inch below the arm hole. So I'm going to go back, here's our arm hole
on the sleeve, it's the bottom of this like bell shape. So I need to go an inch below. So I'm going to click this point. And then Unknown Speaker 20:35
let's see, I think I'm going to add a perpendicular line Unknown Speaker 20:39
perpendicular to the y axis. So we'll go across Unknown Speaker 20:45
here Unknown Speaker 20:46
needs to be bigger, which I don't need both I just Unknown Speaker 20:52
kind of zoomed in. So I don't know if that's long enough of it. That's fine. It was a long, no problem, though. And then I'm going to drop this guy. I'm going to offset it as an internal line,
so that it's one inch. Unknown Speaker 21:06
One inch. Okay. Unknown Speaker 21:09
Okay, so now I just need to figure out Unknown Speaker 21:13
what this measurement is, we're going to click on our pattern line, click one time and into
the other side zooming in Unknown Speaker 21:24
would be in do a double click. Unknown Speaker 21:28
That's number 13, which is our bicep. Unknown Speaker 21:34
One inch Unknown Speaker 21:37
arm. Unknown Speaker 21:41
sleeve opening, extended. So this time, this rib really is a lot smaller. So they're going to want this sleeve opening
of your not that red trim, like what would the roadtrip be if you pulled it to like its
widest? I guess. So it's what they want is this measurement. So I'm going to click here one time, click
click, and then that's going to be Unknown Speaker 22:05
open. Unknown Speaker 22:10
Okay, let me have some rib details. They want the neck from the center back neck. Okay, so I guess the width of it at the center
back neck. Unknown Speaker 22:24
I'm going to hand over here to just this measurement. My is mine cricket. Unknown Speaker 22:33
I actually don't, Unknown Speaker 22:35
I think that I should have probably fixed my pattern. There's nothing wrong with my pattern. So I'm going to click here Unknown Speaker 22:41
and hold shift. Unknown Speaker 22:45
Well, I guess we'll just do this on a vaccine clip clip. Okay, so that's gonna be Unknown Speaker 22:52
an actress. Unknown Speaker 22:57
sent her back, neck, Unknown Speaker 23:00
our sleeve opening relaxed, okay. Unknown Speaker 23:07
So if it's not extended, Unknown Speaker 23:10
then there would be this one down here. So I can just click here and click and click, Unknown Speaker 23:18
double click. There we go. So that's our sleeve. Unknown Speaker 23:23
One of the things I like about the double click is that you don't have to do it really
fast. Like if you forget to double click, you just
go back and click on it one more time. It's kind of nice. It's like less stressful. Okay, um, our rib height. That means at the waist. Unknown Speaker 23:41
So we really can measure it anywhere. mailjet at that side, click one time click
one time click. Unknown Speaker 23:48
That's going to be gryb. Unknown Speaker 23:52
Okay. Unknown Speaker 23:56
And then, which one was that number? 17. Oh, that was for the sleep oopsies I messed
up. Unknown Speaker 24:02
Okay, good. Hi, this is actually what I just did was number
18. Unknown Speaker 24:07
With height finished at the sweep. Unknown Speaker 24:13
Sweep is like the bottom opening of your garment. Unknown Speaker 24:19
And we also want to rip height at Unknown Speaker 24:23
the sleeve. So I forgot about that one. Unknown Speaker 24:29
That was number 17. Unknown Speaker 24:41
Finished. Unknown Speaker 24:44
Okay, and the last one is our bottom opening relaxed, which is going to be our rib cramps. I'm going to click right there. I'm going to click here. That's only half of it. So I'm going to go back Unknown Speaker 24:56
and click on time. There we go. Unknown Speaker 25:00
They also have the half measurement, but Unknown Speaker 25:02
that's fine to the full one. Okay, so bottom Unknown Speaker 25:08
the mean. Unknown Speaker 25:19
So Unknown Speaker 25:22
cool. So there you are. That's a demonstration how to take the PLM
measurements. I hope you guys learned a few things. If you have any questions, there are those
PowerPoints I put in Canvas that demonstrate illustrate all these different point of measurements. It's a good thing to really learn and get
familiar with. Unknown Speaker 25:38
So if you have questions, of course, reach out and let me know
