How to Use a Multimeter - Detailed Tutorial

hey guys J here with word of advice TV in a lot of my furnace repair videos people have been asking me to make a video on how to use a multimeter and just to go over all its functions and what it does salt finally Here I am making this video and this video will have two parts to it and the first part I want to go over to actual meter itself and then all the functions everything that they can measure and what I can check and in the second part I will actually go down to my furnace and then we can do some of those checks using these functions down at the furnace so let's just dig right in the meter I will be going over today this is my favorite meter I've had a couple before I won't call myself a meter expert but I've had maybe like four or five in the past including the older models of this one and this one is by far the best meter I've ever had this meter right here is the you EIG - Phoenix and this is the DL 389 model and this meter comes with some accessories when you buy it it'll of course come with some meter leads and then the other thing that I really liked it came with these alligator clips that you can attach to your meter leads which actually comes in very handy at times there's just some threads on the inside there and you can just screw them onto your leads like such so it's almost like having a third hand so you can hook this up to some wire terminal hook up both of them if you want and then you have your hands-free to hold your meter and then take screws out or do whatever else with your hands so that's kind of neat I like that it comes with those clips other meters that I had they never came with these little alligators with them so when I got this meter I really like these little alligator things and the last thing it comes with is a temperature probe so if you ever need to measure some temperature it gives you this thing you just plug it into the bottom of your meter and you can use this little thermocouple and to measure temperatures you can either stick it into a supply duct or a return duct or maybe you lost your clamp to put on the refrigerant pipes on the air conditioner outside sometimes I had to do that before where you just wrap this around the pipe and just put some black electrical tape around it and you can measure temperatures that way and also hang on the temperatures than the ductwork I always use a pokin thermometer but I lose those a lot so this comes in really handy for that too if I have no more thermometers left I can just use this as a backup so it's definitely a good thing to have with your meter so both of the accessories I just wanted to quickly go over them so you know that they do come with them and of course it comes with the pouch where you put the meter in but the most important part of course is the meter itself so let's go over this thing in a little bit more detail the meter itself is really sturdy in fact my meter goes by the motto of what doesn't kill you makes you stronger I've dropped it quite a few times and it bounced right back and stronger than ever I had this meter for probably like three or four years by now and it went through a lot and really the only damage I'm observing is this magnetic soft pad on the back here is just sliding off a little bit other than that the meter is fully intact there's no damage at all even though it has been through some abuse the body is made of rigid plastic and on the sides there's these ridges for grips and what I love about this meter is that even though it doesn't look like it has a lot of functions this meter actually has a bunch of stuff crammed into it pretty much everything that an HVAC tech would need or any appliance repair guy would need back in the day the functions that this meter has would be split up into three meters you would have an amp clamp a meter to read voltages a meter to read resistance a whole bunch of different meters this one combines everything into one which is really nice since you don't have to carry multiple meters on you there's four things that I really love about this meter the first one is that it has a backlight so if you press the hold button and hold it for two seconds the back light comes on along with a little work light it also has a voltage pen feature non-contact voltage you could pretty much use this meter as a voltage pen to see if there's any live wires by using the tip of the meter right here I'll show an example of how that works later in the video to turn the light off you just press and hold the hold button again to shut it off so you have the backlight you have the voltage pan feature the magnet is a must-have I love this magnet in the back here my meter gets a lot of views so as you can see that little pad is starting to slide a little bit upwards but it works great nonetheless and the fourth thing that I like about this meter is the outer range feature I think that is actually very awesome I use it all the time so it basically selects the range for you on old multimeters you have to manually select the range for example it'll have you know 400 ohms for K ohms 40 K ohms 400 K ohms and so on so on so on same with the amps there will be multiple app selections you can select and voltages whereas this one the outer range feature it automatically detects and measures how much voltage you're measuring and it adjusts accordingly automatically so you only have one voltage selection here and one resistance selection because this thing will automatically detect what you're reading these markers on the amp clamp right here are actually little indicators that show you where is the best place to take an amp draw so if you clamp your meter around a wire if the wire is right in the center or basically in the crosshairs of these markers you'll get the best reading in that location right there the amp clamp also has a lead holder so you can stick a lead right on top and get to hard-to-reach places that way so if you're checking voltage of something you can just stick that in there and it kind of helps you reach tight spots so that's kind of nice I don't use that holder too often but when you need it in a tight space it's really handy to have and in the back of the meter of course we have a spot for the leads to go so you don't have to just have them dangling somewhere you can just plug your leads in the back like that this meter takes two triple A batteries which are in the back right here and I actually kind of like that there's a screw that holds the cover down because other meters that I've had if you drop your meter usually this cover just goes flying and sometimes it flies so far that you can't find that cover anymore so there's the two batteries and later on in the video i'm gonna go over temperatures this meter can measure 10 pictures and you can actually adjust the temperature reading by sticking a little flat-head screwdriver into this little hole right here and adjust the temperature on your meter if you think the temperatures are off and the amp clamp on this meter is actually removable it's an adapter that just hooks on from the top if you just grip it firmly and pull the top of it comes off and you can actually buy an adapter that's a hook probe amp clamp it's just a really thin one that you can get into tight spaces with and just kind of hook onto a wire to check the amp draw that way so that's just another cool feature that this meter has and then to put it back in you just press down on it and it just snaps right back in place on the bottom you have the ports for your meter leads blank goes into common and the red goes into the red and I like to always check my meter leads by putting my meter to continuity right there that little sonar symbol and if you put two of your leads together you should hear a beep that means there's continuity between the two wires and you know that the meter leads the wires are not broken anywhere or the ends right here sometimes those get cracked so once in a while it's a good thing to check your meter leads and make sure they're good and there's no cracks and the wires well and now let's go over all the options that this meter has or all the buttons so this is your main dial switch to select all your measurements from will start from the bottom and just go up to the top the first one is voltage you can check either DC or AC volts and when both of them are in the same spot that means it can measure either AC or DC or you can press the select button right here and that will change this little wave symbol to your DC symbol and you can check DC voltage that way and you would use this setting to check millivolts as well which is why this MV symbol popped out right there and this meter just like any other digital meter will have a bunch of abbreviations and I'll go ahead and put a little printout from the manual of what all these symbols mean and I'll actually put a link in the description as well where you can find the manual for this meter online it has a lot of good info on there as well and I suppose I should mention that the dual display that you see the top display is always going to be for the adapter so in my case that'll be the amp clamp right here so the top display is always going to be amp draw whereas the bottom display is just whatever you select on this selection knob right here this meter also has a maximum and a minimum capture which means it'll record the maximum amp drop or the minimum amp draw so if you just hit max max appears right there so this is good for inrush current like for example an AC compressor that's starting up sometimes you want to see the inrush current to see if it's drawing locked rotor amps in that case using this max setting would be perfect for that scenario and you can capture the max or the minimum of voltage or amp draw or resistance I personally always use the auto range feature and have the meter automatically detect what I'm reading but if you wanted to manually adjust it you can just click this range button and you can see the decimal move over and you can adjust manually how sensitive you want the meter to be and the only time I use the manual range is when of measuring the inrush current in fact the manual also recommends whenever you're using the max setting to use your manual range to manually select what kind of range are expecting to see because the meter gets a faster reading when it's in manual than it does when it's an automatic and on the bottom right here you have Hertz and the duty cycle so you can measure Hertz and duty cycle with this meter as well so if you press that button if you press it once it'll measure Hertz so in America the standard is about 60 Hertz for electricity and if you press it again it goes to the duty cycle now the duty cycle I know what it does but for HVAC I never actually used this and if you're watching this video and you actually do use the duty cycle it would be interesting to know how you use it so if you get a chance let us know in the comments but anyways the duty cycle in some applications electrical loads are switched on and off rapidly so the duty cycle actually captures how much percent of the time the load is energized so this feature would be more used by mechanics like for the RPM and an engine but for HVAC I've never actually used a duty cycle once in a while I'll measure the Hertz to see if you need an electrician or not but never do I use the duty cycle but anyways that's what this button does so let's move on after voltage you have ohms which is that upside-down horseshoe symbol that's to measure resistance and we'll be taking some resistance measurements later on in the video at the furnace and the next one in line there's two selections here it's the diode test and the continuity test the continuity test we did earlier with our meter leads and the thing you should know about the continuity test is that it's mainly just to check like a piece of wire or a closed switch it's not meant for big loads so according to the manual it's 50 ohms and below so the continuity feature with the beep it's really only there to check if a switch is closed or not or if you have a broken wire and we'll do some continuity checks at the furnace as well as for the diode check if you press the select button it switches from continuity to the diode and that little diode symbol appears on the bottom of the screen there and a diode usually looks like a little barrel looking thing and it almost works like a check valve for electricity so it allows electricity to go one way but not the other way so to test if that diode is good or not you could use that diode check right there I don't use that feature in my HVAC field maybe somebody does if you do and you use this feature all the time that would be interesting to know about as well if you could let us know in the comments how you use it and what you use it for maybe on control boards but typically I don't dig into control boards and check which diode is bad I just replaced the whole board but anyway this meter can check diodes if you need to then the next setting we have is the MFD or capacitance that's the check capacitors which is really nice to have for air conditioners and furnaces and we'll be checking capacitors at the furnace to show you how that works the next setting is micro amps this is a very important feature for measuring the flame signal on a flame sensor so very good for furnaces and we'll be doing an example of that at the furnace as well and the last one is temperature you can toggle between Celsius and Fahrenheit by pressing this select button and if you're measuring temperatures you have to take out your meter leads and there's a little selector right here that's us temp you have to move that down because you can't use their meter leads and this temp rope at the same time and then that temp probe that I showed you earlier you plug it in and that thing will now measure temperatures so for example if I measure the temperatures of my fingers give it a few seconds as you can see the temperature of my fingers is about 94 degrees I like this top probe because it's really fast acting it measures the temperature really fast I work on ovens as well so sometimes if people are saying that their ovens aren't heating right I'll stick that in there it's heat resistant so I'll stick that in there and it measures the temperatures really accurately and that's about all the features that this meter has I didn't really mention the whole button of course if you're measuring something and you press the hold button it just freezes the screen and this meter has an auto power off feature so after a while if you just leave it on the meter will turn off by itself if you put it on hold though it will not turn off also if you turn on the backlight it will only stay on for two minutes and then go off too but anyway I now put the boring stuff let's actually go down to the furnace and do some checks okay so we're down at the furnace but before we get to the furnace itself the first thing we're going to check is DC volts so you want to set your meter to the voltage symbol right there you can hit the select button and switch that wave symbol to the DC symbol and we're gonna check some batteries right here and see how they check out so we got a 9-volt battery right here we've got a double-a 1.5 volt battery and a triple-a 1.5 volt battery so let's check the 9-volt first you put one lead on one end and one lead out other and let's turn on the back light on my meter flip it over so you could see it we're getting a reading of 9.6 so this battery is very good has a good charge and it should be because it's a brand new battery next up we have the double-a and you can actually touch the leads with your fingers when you're measuring batteries it's not going to do any harm and it's not going to mess up the readings so you put one lead on one under the battery and other lead on the other end and we're getting a read of 1.6 so this 2 is a good battery because it's rated at 1.5 volts and then we have the triple-a battery also rated at 1.5 volts and this one is checking out at 0.8 - so this is actually a dead battery not good and you can look this up online we've got basically with the 9-volt battery if it drops below 8 volts that's garbage with this one and this one they're rated at 1.5 if they drop below one with their garbage so you know of course the lower it goes the weaker it gets 1.4 1.3 1.2 but once it goes below 1 they are both garbage so that's DC volts and on this setting you would also check milli volts I don't have a thermocouple or anything of the sort so I won't be checking millivolts but that's on the same setting right there as well so next up if you press select again that will bring us back to our AC voltage that wave symbol and let's go check an outlet and make sure I have 120 volts there here's a splendid outlet we'll work great so the wide prong is always going to be or neutral and then the narrow prong is going to be your hot and of course the one on the bottom is the ground now this is a hundred twenty volts and basically anything with 120 volts you got to be careful you definitely don't want to put your fingers in there it will zap you so only your meter leads will be touching anything metal once you're dealing with higher voltage then just low voltage DC or AC so I have my meter set to voltage I got it at the wave symbol which means it's set to AC current and let's stick one lead into the common ordinal and the other one into the hot and as you can see I have a hundred and twenty three volts and just so you know it's never gonna be exactly a hundred twenty it'll go it's going to be around 120 so 123 that's good if you have zero volts then maybe your ground fault or GFI is tripped or a circuit breaker is tripped somewhere and while we have my meter leads stuck in the outlet we can also go to Hertz which is the Hz right there and of course in America we go by sixty Hertz and as you can see pretty much right there 59.99 and right there it's switched exactly to sixty and if you have something lower than that then you should be calling your electrician because something is wrong and before we move on from AC voltage let's just check some AC voltage on my furnace I'll flip my power switch on and actually I'm gonna go ahead and unplug my inducer motor so here's the plug going up to the inducer motor as you can see I unplugged it and my inducer motor plug has three wires if you have just a normal inducer motor you'll have only two or maybe at ground will be there as well but mine as you can see has a white which is neutral the black is line and the red is also line I have a two-stage inducer motor so the red is the low speed and then the black is the high speed the inducer motor will always start on the high speed and then ramp down to the low speed which means right now the black wires should be getting 120 volts so if I put one lead into the white and another into the black I get 123 volts so the inducer motor is getting voltage so for example if you would check this and it's getting 123 volts yet your inducer motor is not turning on then you know that your inducer motor is bad and before I plugged my inducer motor in let's check my pressure switch real quick here so if I go from one terminal the pressure switch to the other this is low voltage so it's going to be somewhere around 24 volts as you can see I have 28 volts right there and as we all know a switch will have voltage on it a voltage drop if the switch is open so right now this switch is open and then when the inducer motor comes on the pressure that it creates will close this switch and when a switch is closed it'll drop down to zero volts so I'm going to go ahead and turn the power switch off I'll plug my inducer motor back in and then I'll put my meter leads on the pressure switch right away and I just want you to see the voltage go from 28 to zero after the inducer motor turns on so I'll turn my power switch back on I already have my meters up to voltage and let's see what happens and as you saw that went from 28 to 0 that means that pressure switch just closed so I turned to power back off and the next thing I want to check is the igniter so in the sequence of operation the inducer motor comes on on my furnace at least the inducer motor comes on pressure switch closes and the very next thing that happens is the igniter should get energized so it gets 120 volts so if you think your igniter is bad for example you can just check voltage on it to see if it's getting 120 volts you can unplug it like I did with the inducer motor here's the plug going to the igniter and here's the one that's feeding at the power you can stick your leads into the connectors inside do that very carefully so you don't damage them I like to just stab it from the back if I'm gonna do that like that check if you have 120 volts going to that hot surface igniter when it's supposed to glow or you can leave it plugged in which is what we'll try this time we've plugged in and I'll just jam my meter leaves in the back on this side right here like that I don't know how well you can see that on camera but basically I jammed them on the backside right there and I'll turn the power back on and we'll look at our meter I'll turn on the back light okay so as you can see it already has 120 volts and if we look down we can see that igniter starting to glow that orange glow right there then the gas valve will get energized and everything lights and of course same thing with the gas valve let's take my leaves out while the gas valve is energized this coil opens up and lets the gas through I should be getting a hundred and twenty volts between my C which is common and my PM which is main valve so if I stick one lead into PM another lead into common as you can see I have 26 volts anyway I'm totally sidetracking this video is not about troubleshooting it's about how to use the meter so let's move on that's how you check voltages AC and DC the next one on that dial switch is ohms or resistance which is that upside-down horseshoe symbol right there and let's do something simple first we'll start with these light bulbs that I got from my bathroom one of my light bulbs conveniently burned out on me so one is good one is bad so let's check let's check which light bulb is good and which one is bad so you put one meter lead on the hope side socket and the other lead on the bottom of the light bulb right here and we'll turn on our back light once again so you can see what I'm doing so one lead on the upside one on the bottom and we're getting 40 46 ohms and different light bulbs will have different readings so don't focus too much on what the ohms reading is a bad light bulb will generally just bol which means open line which equals a bad light bulb as you can see this light bulb right here is o L so this light bulb is bad and this light bulb which is getting a read it is good all right back to the furnace and before we check resistance I do want to point something out when you have your meter set to the ohm symbol or resistance when you're checking resistance readings you cannot have power going to that component or to that load you want to have the wires disconnected and no live power because every meter comes with built-in smoke but you don't want to release it if your meters start smoking that's bad news so I have the power off to my furnace and for example let's just take an ohm reading of my inducer motor so between white and black that's my high speed and the inducer motor stick one lead in there and it doesn't matter which direction you do it this lead here in this lead here or this during this year their multifunction or outer range and my meter so it doesn't matter and let's see what reading I get so on the high-speed I'm getting 33 ohms or let's say 35 35 ohms for the high speed and if I measure from white to red which is my low speed we're getting 51 ohms the lower speed will always have a higher resistance and most of the time if the inducer motor is bad you will see the o L symbol or your own reading is going to be super high or just totally something wacky but my inducer motor is good so let's plug that back in and before we move on from ohms might as well check the igniter - same with the igniter if your igniter is bad almost every time it'll be o L or some really high reading like 400 or 500 ohms and you want to measure it in room temperature so if your igniter was just hot your reading will be slightly different than what it normally would be in room temperature so once again I put both leads into the plug that goes to my igniter like such and I have about 70 ohms of resistance it's bouncing around because I don't have a very sturdy connection in there with my leads there you go now it's steady so my igniter is 65 ohms and that's good with hot surface igniter is the silicon carbide like I have they generally should be under a hundred ohms but like I said previously if it's dead or if it's a bad igniter a lot of times it'll be oh L and next in the list here we have continuity and measuring continuity is very much like measuring resistance you want to have the power off and if you can disconnect the wires so you want to isolate whatever it is that you're measuring usually it is used for measuring switches it's not meant for measuring loads continuity is only to be used on resistance readings that are under 50 ohms and it'll sound a tone if there is continuity and if there's no continuity and of course it's not going to sound its own so basically if I touch my two meters there should be continuity unless I have a broken wire inside of my lead somewhere and you should hear a tone for example so the main function of the continuity test is to make sure that a switch or whatever it is that you're checking is a closed circuit and it's not a well or open circuit and just like resistance you want to make sure you have your power off and if you can disconnect the wires at least one of them preferably both from whatever it is that you're checking so for example let's just check my high limit switch I'll unplug both wires I have my power switch disconnected to the furnace and now put one lead on one terminal and other unto other and we should hear a beep there it is that means the switch is closed and a high limit switch or upper limit switch is a normally closed switch so you should always hear a beep on that switch right there unless your furnace is overheated and that opened up and let's just try the pressure switch the pressure switch unlike the high limit switch is a normally open switch when they do sir motor turns on and creates an induced draft that pressure switch closes and allows the current to go through so if I disconnect my wires and check my pressure switch since it's a normally open switch I should not be hearing any tones and this should be oh L so one lead on one terminal one in the other as you can see there's no beep and my meter shows o L and of course you can do these same measurements with the resistance setting as well and once again you'll get that oil symbol mainly this continuity check right here what's nice about that is that there's a tone so you don't really even have to look at your meter especially if you're in a tight space you just get in there and if you hear a tone that means the switch is closed if you don't hear a tone that means it's open and next on the list for continuity we have microfarads or capacitance and that's usually labeled with MFD or UF or that capacitor symbol right there you see and this setting is to check capacitors so I have two capacitors as an example I have a 5 micro farad capacitor and I have a 50 micro farad capacitor and both of them are plus or minus 5% which means the most they should go over 50 or under 50 is 5 percent and same with the 5 micro farad 5 percent over under 5 micro farad's if the capacitor measures outside of that range that means the capacitor is banned so for example let's start with this 50 micro farad capacitor this capacitor is 50 by 5 and it's for a condenser unit or air conditioner that's outside so we got home which is compressor and fan which is for the condenser fan and of course the common so I have my meter set to micro farad's right there and let's check this capacitor so I put one lead in common and one to harm or compressor and I should have somewhere around 50 micro farad's this capacitor is pretty much getting a charge from the meter so give it up to 10 15 seconds and you should see a read of the capacitor show up so as you can see mine is reading 52.3 micro farad's so if you add 5% to 50 that's going to be I believe 52 point 5 so this capacitor is within range and it's good to use this is a good capacitor now let's try this guy which is a 5 micro farad capacitor this is just a single capacitor this one is usually used for blower motors on furnaces so it doesn't matter which lead goes to which terminal basically one is common one is fan put both leads on and let's see what we get for a reading and we're getting 2.7 microfarads which means this capacitor is way out of range which means it's garbage and next up we have micro amps which is basically that backwards you and an a so DC micro amps and this is usually used for measuring the flame signal current on a flame sensor so let's go ahead and do that and an easy way to do that if you have these alligator clips is to put one of them on one of the leads disconnect your flame sensor which on my furnace is right down here I'll put my alligator lead on the flame sensor terminal here that way I don't have to hold my lead meter lead there got that on there and the other lead I will stick into the wire of that connector that I pulled off of the flame sensor and I like to stick it in between the connector and that plastic piece so I don't damage the connector at all so jam it in there like that and I don't even have to hold it just make sure it's not touching anything metal so it doesn't start out I'll just put mine right here so basically what I did is I put my meter in series with that flame sensor so let's turn my furnace back on and wait a little bit basically what my burners ignite and there's flames will see a DC micro amp signal or a current that should show up on my meter so my igniter is glowing right now the burners lit as you can see I'm getting 2.6 micro amps which is actually kind of low and means I should take out that flame sensor and clean it up and I know that on my furnace the micro amp reading of the flame sensor is not that high to begin with some furnaces can go up to 10 micro amps but mine only goes up to like three and a half or four when that flame sensor is brand new so I'm not too worried about it but usually when you clean the flame sensor that's really dirty you will see a big difference on that micro amp reading and while we're talking amps that was DC micro amps that we just measured if you go back to voltage this upper display is where the amp clamp adaptor is it's a dual display so the bottom like I mentioned previously is whatever you set it to and the upper one is always going to be for the amp clamp so let's just measure the amp draw of my inducer motor right here clamp it onto the black wire which is the high speed that's where the inducer motor starts and I'll switch it from auto range to manual so it's more sensitive put the decimal point there and this is also a good opportunity to check my inrush current or to peak max so I will set it to max that way I'll record what the maximum amp draw of this inducer motor is because on all motors whenever they start they pull a lot more amps than they do while they're running so let's turn the furnace on and see what we'll get as you saw the startup amperage was 1.4 amps and now my inducer motor switched over to low fire which is this red wire let's clear that out and let's just check the runtime amperage of my inducer motor on low stage as you can see we're getting a reading of 0.36 amps we could also check the amp draw off the gas valve coil so I'll just put it on the common wire on the gas valve the gas valve coil is pulling point 3-1 amps so that's how you measure amp draw and the other feature is that hold button so for example if I wanted to for some reason save the reading that I'm getting an inducer motor per say let's say I want to show the customer that the 1/2 draw is too high the motors starting to go out I can get a reading so as you see it's 0.34 amps all I have to do is just press the hold button and that holds whatever reading I was getting so I can go upstairs and show whoever that I was getting at 0.34 amp drawn the inducer motor and last on the list is the temperature the F and C and in order to put in your temp probe you have to disconnect your meter leads and switch this little toggle switch to temp that's because you can't use the meter leads and this thing at the same time you plug your temperature probe in and since my furnace was just running this exhaust pipe should be really hot let's just see a live reading of what this thing is so if I touch this wire to the exhaust pipe we see that it's at about a hundred and fifty degrees and climbing 160 162 and of course it would be a better connection if I actually press down on it but that would burn my finger off so I'm not going to do that but that's how you use a temperature probe it's pretty much the same thing as just using a poke and thermometer except this one's connected to your meter and last but not least we got the non-contact voltage or I just simply referred to as a voltage pen because that's pretty much what you're doing you just press this button and hold it and you can check which wires have voltage in them or current going through and this works for both low voltage and high voltage so for example we should have voltage at these pressure switches so if I press this and hold it you should hear a little rattle coming from the meter that means there is voltage present or like my inducer motor for example there's voltage present there as well and you can check outlets like that as well well guys and that's all I had for this video about how to use a multimeter I hope you found this video useful and you got some good pointers out of it if I missed some functions of this meter that you know of please let us know in the comments below just to help everybody else or if I didn't quite explain something right please do correct me in the comments below as well anyway I hope you found this video useful thank you so much for watching don't forget to mash that like button on the way out and we'll see you next time and for those of you that watch the video all the way till the end thank you by the way I have a brain puzzle for you now this puzzle is not as easy as it looks and it took me like four tries to get it and each time I was certain that I had the right answer but I was wrong each time so if you don't get it from your first try don't be upset that's only natural but let me know what you think the answer is in the comments below and I'll let you know if you got the answer right or not or if you like spoilers you could always look through the comments and see if somebody already has the right answer but anyways here's the puzzle I'll leave it up on the screen for about a minute if you need more time just pause the video good luck [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Word of Advice TV

Views: 487,773

Rating: 4.8991532 out of 5

Keywords: how to use a multimeter, how to use a meter, how to use a multimeter to check continuity, how to use a multimeter to check ohms, how to use a multimeter to check amps, how to use multimeter to check fuse, how to use uei multimeter, how to use multimeter to check capacitor, multimeter tutorial, uei multimeter tutorial, uei dl389 review, how to check voltage with a multimeter, how to check ohms with a multimeter, how to use multimeter, word of advice tv, multimeter use

Id: zr4Ow1JT9jU

Length: 42min 0sec (2520 seconds)

Published: Thu Feb 14 2019