Testing With Each Function of the UEI Multimeter! UEI DL479 Review!

[Music] hey guys this is easy super second today we're going over is the uei multimeter and how it works so we're gonna be going over all the functions and individually testing a components out before we go ahead and do that I just wanted to give you a brief history of my experience with these multimeters and I started out with this the uei DL 250 about almost about 15 years ago so that one right there I used everyday so I put a lot of wear and tear on it as you can see and after about eight years or so the temperature setting basically wasn't exactly accurate anymore even with new temp sensors it just seemed off so what I did is I upgraded after about eight years to the DL 379 I've had that for about seven years as my everyday user and I had really haven't seen any problems with this whatsoever other than just upgrading the multimeter probes here so after a while if you read resistance between the probes you might want to go ahead and switch them out for new probes so that's just kind of a normal wear and tear thing but other than that I haven't had any problems with this one and my students use this everyday they have multiple of these and once again no issues with any of those so that's that's pretty good now we're at the UE I DL 479 and the UE IDL 469 so the 479 comes with a temp sensor alright so you could get the four DL 469 without the temp sensor and that's fine too there is no way to adjust the temperature on these by the way I use this from my temperature readings this is the field piece st 4 and has two temp sensors on it and you can calibrate those temp sensors in 32 degree ice water just to verify that you're getting the right temperature reading so you know I have all these tools link down in the description below and we're gonna go ahead and start off using our multimeter our DL 479 so now we're gonna go ahead and turn on EC voltage and we're gonna press this button right here on the side and that's going to turn the light on so you have to hold that for just two seconds or so now we have AC voltage on due to the sine wave over on the left hand side that tells you what reading you're taking and now we're gonna take these probes we're gonna put them right into a plug in order to read our voltage so we need to do is we need to twist these just a little bit just to make sure it's making good contact inside the plug and you see that we're reading one hundred and twenty three point nine volts so that's AC voltage now if you want to check the frequency we would just hold down this button okay and now we're on easy frequency and that should be about sixty Hertz we're in the US and you see that we're reading 59.99 we're right on the verge of sixty Hertz per second so that's good now if we want to check DC voltage we'll the simplest thing to do is just turn it off turn it back on and we're going to press the select button fast this time we're also going to hold in our light and you see that we have a straight line over here on the left hand side so we're gonna go ahead and read our battery and this is a 9-volt battery so we should read anything above nine volts will be good so you see we read nine point seven seven volts so that is a good battery now we're going to go ahead and read a 1.5 volt battery and this is a rechargeable one so we're gonna see if this voltage is any good so we read one point one eight four volts so it should be one point five volts and that battery needs to be recharged now if we go to resistance value we're going to go ahead and check a inducer motor so we're on resistance right here we're reading oh well which means that it's over limit okay our open line and when we touch the probes we can test them because we should be reading zero point zero ohms of resistance so right now that's what we're reading so that's good that means our probes are good and now we can go ahead and test our motor so this is an inducer motor the power is off right now I'm putting the probes into the speed connectors now just realize that it's the probes are not going into the the inside of the Spade connector it's actually going on the outside because you don't want to open up the Spade connector making it loose so right now you see that we're reading 10.5 ohms of resistance so with this we can ohm at a motor and also make sure that we don't have any problems like this this motors touching ground so we can go from hop to ground right now and we see that we have oh well still so the the motor is not grounded with the electrical windings so there you get to see about how long the the light stays on for it just stays on for for about a minute or so and then ends up shutting off so it's just not wearing the battery out that's all and this multimeter actually shut shut off on itself if it's not being used so right here you have continuity as well if you wanted to press this button right here and make the beeping noise basically if these probes were touching okay I opted not to usually use that that function right there okay but even if you have resistance it will still beep okay just like that so that's your continuity function so now we're gonna go ahead and check our capacitance right here in micro farad's so if you can read that that says fifteen UF so that's the same thing as 15 micro farad's and this capacitor is a 370 V AC capacitor so first thing after you turn the power off you disconnect your capacitor then you need something that is just bare metal in order to basically short the capacitor out where you could use a 10,000 or 20,000 ohm resistor but you can just go ahead and short them out for most residential like commercial HVAC capacitors then what we're gonna do is we're gonna turn this right over to there's resistance but there's also continuity there's also micro farad's on here so we can just go ahead and press the select button okay and we'll just press it one more time and then we can get to our micro farad's so now what we're gonna do is we're going to take our probes and we're going to hold them in nice and tight I'm also gonna turn the light on hold them down and you may have to hold probes down for possibly even about 20 seconds or so something like that in order to get a good accurate microfarad reading so unless you see we read 14.8 8uf which is the same thing as micro farad's so that capacitor is still good I like to see them a little higher than what they're rated for but in this case that capacitor is still good so we have an incandescent light bulb plugged in and we're gonna go ahead and check our AC amperage with our AC and clamp so all you need to do is clamp around one of the two wires so in this case we'll just clamp this top wire and we're reading 0.53 amps so realize this lightbulb right here is a 60 watt light bulb it's 120 volts and Watts equals volts times amps so 60 watts equals 120 times 0.5 and we're reading 0.53 so we're very close to that so I'm trying not to end up touching the wires that were checking the amp drill on so once again reading 0.53 games so the next thing we're gonna check is DC micro amps and what we would typically do and I'm not gonna be able to do it here cuz I don't have a flame occurring right now but we would check our DC micro amps through the AC line coming in to the stainless steel rod which is the flame rod so normally a flame would come out from here across the flame rod and we would check DC micro amps by putting the multimeter in series with the flame rod wire so this is what we would end up doing we put one probe right in here and we'd have the other probe alligator clip right on there so that's what we'd end up having so right now the multimeter is in series we have say 100 volts ac coming through and actually feeding in through the flame rod at the same time we're actually able to check DC micro amps right here because our multimeters in series we have this right here basically just clipped right on to the bottom of the flame rod and we have this multimeter probe attached to the white wire that was going on to that flame rod so this is when we would be reading our DC microwave signal on our multimeter if we wanted to read non-contact voltage then what we would do is we would just have this sensor that's located right here next to a live wire and you see that we're beeping right now so if you're looking for a live wire say up in the attic and you're trying to find which one is live say with all the switches off that's how that's how you could do that so now we're going to go ahead and check our temperature so we're just going to turn that right up to Fahrenheit and we'll also turn our light on and if we wanted to check Celsius we could just press the select button and now we're on Celsius so I'll just change it over to Fahrenheit and we'll go ahead and plug in our temp sensor all right so you see that we are reading roughly fifty three point six degrees all right so that's how it's done so if you're looking for this DL for 79 or the DL for 69 without the temp sensor I have them all linked in in the description below and if you want to help support this HVAC our training channel check out patreon.com/scishow see silverstack where we're rewarding the members there by adding extra content such as videos articles and answering questions hope you enjoyed yourself and we'll see you next time the EC citrus tech Channel you

Channel: AC Service Tech LLC

Views: 47,370

Rating: 4.8335724 out of 5

Keywords: acservicetech, repair, maintenance, how to, fix, hvac, hvacr, how do you, uei dl479, uei dl469, multi-meter, multi meter, electricity, troubleshooting, diagnosis, troubleshoot, check, read, readings, ohms, continuity, mfd, uF, micro farads, microfarads, ncv, non contact voltage, dc voltage, frequency, resistance, temperature, sensor, probes, alligator, micro amps, dc microamps, micro-amps, watts, watts law, test, short, live, on, off, motor, windings, fieldpiece, fluke, current, amp clamp, 120, 240, volts, 24, 24v, ac, dc

Id: kFg3FGphL3U

Length: 10min 37sec (637 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 29 2017